Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:55 AM - Re: wing spar attach hardware (Jesse Saint)
2. 07:20 AM - Re: wing spar attach hardware (Ben Westfall)
3. 07:37 AM - Re: wing spar attach hardware (Vernon Smith)
4. 08:14 AM - Re: RV flyin BOONE, IA (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
5. 08:32 AM - Re: wing spar attach hardware (John Ackerman)
6. 10:16 AM - Silkscreening Your Panel (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
7. 10:37 AM - Bottom Cowl Nose Gear Notch (Albert Gardner)
8. 11:06 AM - Re: Bottom wing skin rivets (Russell Daves)
9. 11:33 AM - Re: Duckworks lenses cracking (don wentz)
10. 11:43 AM - Re: Duckworks lenses cracking (Ralph E. Capen)
11. 12:10 PM - Re: RV flyin BOONE, IA (Tom Deutsch)
12. 12:26 PM - Re: Duckworks lenses cracking (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 12:43 PM - IYBIIWF ()
14. 04:41 PM - Re: IYBIIWF (Dave Leikam)
15. 07:41 PM - OAT probe location (Deems Davis)
16. 07:47 PM - Re: IYBIIWF (Tim Olson)
17. 09:16 PM - Re: Silkscreening Your Panel (KiloPapa)
18. 11:51 PM - Seat Covering (Michael Wellenzohn)
Message 1
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| Subject: | wing spar attach hardware |
I don=92t remember exactly what the plans say, but we use non-AN bolts
to hold
them together, usually 2 top and 2 bottom on each side, using the
smaller
bolt holes. To line them up, you can grind down the threads on a bolt
or
two to use as a drift pin to drive (gently) through to line them up
while
you put your other bolt(s) through. You will want to use grease some
grease. When it comes time to install the wings, everything has always
lined up very well. If you are close to Van=92s and want to use the AN
hardware, I would recommend at least getting the smaller bolts (they are
bigger than =BC=94, aren=92t they?) and using them. If they line up, in
my
experience, the wing bolts will go in just fine when it comes wing
installation time. Make sure to use washers so at to not mar the center
sections, and make sure to remove the plastic from the spacers and to
debur
the edges of at least the outer spacer on each side for the same reason.
This is just how we have done it, and I make no claims of it being
=93the
right/perfect way=94. It has worked for us, but YMMV.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 1:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: wing spar attach hardware
I know this has been talked about before but I could not find much in
the
=93not so=94 archives.
I am on Sec 28 and it is time to mount the forward fuse section to the
mid
fuse section. The plans don=92t say much about the bolts but from the
looks
of it we are supposed to use the actual bolts that attach the wings. I
went
and bought some alternate =BC - 5=94 lag bolts but I cannot find any
9/16=92s
bolts at the usual lowe=92s, depot, ace places. I am also somewhat
hesitant
to use the =BC bolts that I bought cause they will not go through
without
force. Plus the machining on them is nothing like the mil spec ones. I
wonder if it would just be a better idea to buy another set from
Van=92s? I
imagine they aren=92t cheap though (no shipping for me they are 20
minuets
away).
What does Van=92s do with the quickbuild fuse kits? Is your attach
hardware
in them when they come? Do the bolts get marred up at all when you
install
them?
I would appreciate any advice and/or what I did=92s.
Ben Westfall
PDX
#40579 ' Fuse
Geez this thing is getting BIG in a hurry!!
Message 2
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| Subject: | wing spar attach hardware |
I was thinking one thing and typed another=85 yeah they should be
3/8=92s not
1/4 inch.
Thanks for your comments Jesse.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 3:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: wing spar attach hardware
I don=92t remember exactly what the plans say, but we use non-AN bolts
to hold
them together, usually 2 top and 2 bottom on each side, using the
smaller
bolt holes. To line them up, you can grind down the threads on a bolt
or
two to use as a drift pin to drive (gently) through to line them up
while
you put your other bolt(s) through. You will want to use grease some
grease. When it comes time to install the wings, everything has always
lined up very well. If you are close to Van=92s and want to use the AN
hardware, I would recommend at least getting the smaller bolts (they are
bigger than =BC=94, aren=92t they?) and using them. If they line up, in
my
experience, the wing bolts will go in just fine when it comes wing
installation time. Make sure to use washers so at to not mar the center
sections, and make sure to remove the plastic from the spacers and to
debur
the edges of at least the outer spacer on each side for the same reason.
This is just how we have done it, and I make no claims of it being
=93the
right/perfect way=94. It has worked for us, but YMMV.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 1:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: wing spar attach hardware
I know this has been talked about before but I could not find much in
the
=93not so=94 archives.
I am on Sec 28 and it is time to mount the forward fuse section to the
mid
fuse section. The plans don=92t say much about the bolts but from the
looks
of it we are supposed to use the actual bolts that attach the wings. I
went
and bought some alternate =BC - 5=94 lag bolts but I cannot find any
9/16=92s
bolts at the usual lowe=92s, depot, ace places. I am also somewhat
hesitant
to use the =BC bolts that I bought cause they will not go through
without
force. Plus the machining on them is nothing like the mil spec ones. I
wonder if it would just be a better idea to buy another set from
Van=92s? I
imagine they aren=92t cheap though (no shipping for me they are 20
minuets
away).
What does Van=92s do with the quickbuild fuse kits? Is your attach
hardware
in them when they come? Do the bolts get marred up at all when you
install
them?
I would appreciate any advice and/or what I did=92s.
Ben Westfall
PDX
#40579 ' Fuse
Geez this thing is getting BIG in a hurry!!
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | wing spar attach hardware |
Runs in my mind these are close tolerance bolts. My concern,with using Lowe
's hardware to line things up is if things didn't line up exactly and the c
lose tolerance bolts didn't fit after riveting you would be one unhappy cam
per. Putting the factory bolts in the freezer seemed to make them easier to
slide in (may just have been placebo effect.) Deburring the spacer plates
and taking the slight manufacturing warp out of them helps as well. If you
want new bolts here is a link to Van's spar bolt page http://www.vansaircra
ft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1182176179-2-327&browse=hardware&produ
ct=ctbolt.
Vern Smith (#324 baggage door)
do not archive
From: rv10@sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: wing
spar attach hardwareDate: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 22:18:36 -0700
I know this has been talked about before but I could not find much in the
=93not so=94 archives.
I am on Sec 28 and it is time to mount the forward fuse section to the mid
fuse section. The plans don=92t say much about the bolts but from the look
s of it we are supposed to use the actual bolts that attach the wings. I w
ent and bought some alternate =BC - 5=94 lag bolts but I cannot find any 9/
16=92s bolts at the usual lowe=92s, depot, ace places. I am also somewhat
hesitant to use the =BC bolts that I bought cause they will not go through
without force. Plus the machining on them is nothing like the mil spec one
s. I wonder if it would just be a better idea to buy another set from Van
=92s? I imagine they aren=92t cheap though (no shipping for me they are 20
minuets away).
What does Van=92s do with the quickbuild fuse kits? Is your attach hardwar
e in them when they come? Do the bolts get marred up at all when you insta
ll them?
I would appreciate any advice and/or what I did=92s.
Ben Westfall
PDX
#40579 ' Fuse
Geez this thing is getting BIG in a hurry!!
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 4
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| Subject: | RV flyin BOONE, IA |
Dean's plane flew and sounded great, and it was indeed the only flying
RV-10 at Boone. There were several other -10 builders there and the
local folks (Adrian Moses and Lyle Bender) coordinated an RV-10 seminar
for potential new builders. Both of their planes were there but still
quite a ways from the flying stage however.
Thanks for the taxi service Dean!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV flyin BOONE, IA
Just a brief note on the RV flyin at Boone, IA today. I left KAUH at 7
AM with a fellow builder for KPMV to pick up Bruce Bluhm and Bob
Condrey (a full plane). We arrived at KBNW at 9:00AM and got a FRONT
row seat for the ONLY RV-10 at the show. All you other guys were
either in Canada, Niagra Falls, (TIM O) or too busy. Anyway, Adrian
Moses lead a forum on the RV 10 with BOB C. doing a talk on the kit and
options. It was a great day........little warm and muggy but that is
IOWA. We left at 12:05 and were home in GI, NE at 2 pm. I am now
meeting several fliers at KEAR at 6:30pm for Dinner then we will fly
home. I flew 1 hr 45 min to Boone and burned 22.5 gals. I flew 2
hours going home and burned 25.6 Gals. I love this plane. Gotta go
TO for KEAR.
Dean Sombke
N805HL
_____________________________________________________________
Click to find local singles for dating, romance and fun
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX09ymrVmb129r
HgC8UuZaPB9jv1V/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: wing spar attach hardware |
Here's what I did on the gear mount brackets, and plan to do for the
wing attach bolts.
It worked very well on the gear brackets.
If the "guide pins" made this way cannot just be pushed or driven
through and out the other side, use something else that can be pulled
back. perhaps a hole through a longer pin for safety wire to pull with?
Get hardware store bolts of the same nominal size and the same or
slightly longer length.
Grind off the threads and make a bullet shaped end.
Cut off the heads and square up the cut.
Polish the pin, especially the ground part, on your Scotchbrite wheels.
Coat with grease. I used Lubriplate.
Insert with care. Push and tap in until there is room behind the
squared off end to insert the permanent bolt.
Put all the guide pins in before any of the permanent bolts.
Push the guide pin on through with the permanent bolt.
Hope this is of use
John Ackerman 40458
On Jun 18, 2007, at 7:35 AM, Vernon Smith wrote:
> Runs in my mind these are close tolerance bolts. My concern,with
> using Lowe's hardware to line things up is if things didn't line up
> exactly and the close tolerance bolts didn't fit after riveting you
> would be one unhappy camper. Putting the factory bolts in the
> freezer seemed to make them easier to slide in (may just have been
> placebo effect.) Deburring the spacer plates and taking the slight
> manufacturing warp out of them helps as well. If you want new bolts
> here is a link to Van's spar bolt pagehttp://www.vansaircraft.com/
> cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?
> ident=1182176179-2-327&browse=hardware&product=ctbolt.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 baggage door)
>
> do not archive
>
> From: rv10@sinkrate.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: wing spar attach hardware
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 22:18:36 -0700
>
> I know this has been talked about before but I could not find much
> in the =93not so=94 archives.
>
>
> I am on Sec 28 and it is time to mount the forward fuse section to
> the mid fuse section. The plans don=92t say much about the bolts but
> from the looks of it we are supposed to use the actual bolts that
> attach the wings. I went and bought some alternate =BC - 5=94 lag
> bolts but I cannot find any 9/16=92s bolts at the usual lowe=92s,
> depot, ace places. I am also somewhat hesitant to use the =BC bolts
> that I bought cause they will not go through without force. Plus
> the machining on them is nothing like the mil spec ones. I wonder
> if it would just be a better idea to buy another set from Van=92s? I
> imagine they aren=92t cheap though (no shipping for me they are 20
> minuets away).
>
>
> What does Van=92s do with the quickbuild fuse kits? Is your attach
> hardware in them when they come? Do the bolts get marred up at all
> when you install them?
>
>
> I would appreciate any advice and/or what I did=92s.
>
>
> Ben Westfall
>
> PDX
>
> #40579 ' Fuse
>
>
> Geez this thing is getting BIG in a hurry!!
>
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://
> forums.matronics.com
>
> Change is good. See what=92s different about Windows Live Hotmail.
> Check it out!
List
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Silkscreening Your Panel |
I decided that if Tim could do it, so could I...
After reading Tim Olson's notes several times and talking to him on the
phone, I actually applied ink to the panel and it turned out great! I
do have a few thoughts/tips that I thought I'd pass along while they're
fresh in my mind:
- I used the same brand/type ink as Tim: Nazdar ADE which is
intended for electronics and industrial panel use. I was able to find a
local distributor easily by doing a couple of Google searches - you will
want a distributor because this stuff ships as Hazmat and you'll pay
dearly!
- Smallest amount of this type of ink is a quart and it's mixed
5:1 with the catalyst. Smallest container of catalyst is a .5 pint and
the smallest container of screen cleaner is 1 gallon. The distributor
had the ink and screen cleaner in stock in these quantities. He ordered
the catalyst for me in the smaller size (no shipping fee!) and had it in
a few days.
- Get the exact screen cleaner that's recommended for the
brand/type ink you use. This stuff is also useful as a general cleanup
solvent.
- Make sure you let the panel paint cure for a long time before
silkscreening it. If you're a pro it probably isn't a big deal, but for
the rest of us there will probably be at least 1-2 labels that need to
be cleaned off and redone. I used PPG Concept auto paint on the panel
and it sat for a couple weeks before I silkscreened it. The solvent
didn't have any effect at all on it - there was one label that I did 3
times before I was satisfied! I was very generous with the solvent when
cleaning off the panel so it didn't require any scrubbing.
- There is definitely a technique needed to be successful...
mask off labels around the one you actually want to apply. Put a small
glob of ink next to the label (on the mask area, NOT on the label
itself). With 1 smooth motion, drag the squeegee across label applying
pressure so that ink is even spread and not pooled in any area.
- The ink spec sheet will probably also have specs for the
squeegee type (you sure learn a lot building an airplane!). They are
measured in durometers - make sure you get what the ink maker
recommends. Nazdar ADE specifies a 70-80 durometer polyurethane
squeegee. The squeegees that I got have a wooden handle and a flexible
material attached to it. Get a few inches worth and then use your
bandsaw to cut them to widths that you need. Most of the time I used
one that was about 1 inch wide and a few times used one that was about
2.5 inches wide. I had one between those sizes but never used it. I
also never had need for any other size.
- You have plenty of time to work with the ink. The Nazdar ADE
ink has a pot time of 6-8 hours! You don't have to rush, if you make a
mistake it can be cleaned off with the screen cleaner and just try it
again.
- I took Tim's advice and used regular "scotch tape" to mask
off the area around the label I wanted. Even if I was going to redo the
same label, I removed the tape (cleaner will dissolve it and make a
sticky mess) and cleaned the screen. Seems like overkill but the mesh
is very fine and it's a small price to pay for starting fresh each time.
- The ink will also determine the screen mesh size in TPI
(threads per inch) as a range. Get the finest mesh that your ink
specifies for the sharpest edges. Nazdar ADE specifies a mesh range
from 200-305 and I went with 305.
- There are a number of companies that will take your artwork
and turn it into a photo-positive mask mounted on a screen. They can
read almost any format (but not MS Visio) and seem to lean toward Adobe
Illustrator as a default. They can also take PDF files (which is what I
sent) so MS Visio or CAD programs aren't an issue as long as you can
generate that output.
- I iterated many times with my layout before finally sending
the file in. I used MS Visio for the layout simply because 1) I had it,
and 2) it allows measured layouts where objects can be grouped and
moved. I verified the layout spacing, size, font size, etc. by printing
onto clear viewgraph sheets. I then cut these out and taped them onto
the panel. After several minor adjustments it was ready to go. This
method allowed me to see exactly what the end product would turn out
like.
- Turn around time for the actual silkscreen was just a few
days. It took them a couple days after receiving the email to ship the
finished product back to me.
- When you make your screen be sure to put on a few extra
labels for testing and practice. This avoids the potential for messing
up the screen (not getting screen completely cleaned, etc) on actual
labels that you're going to use. Do a few test runs to develop the feel
for the squeegee technique. You can do this on scrap bare aluminum.
Common problems I saw were not enough pressure on the squeegee and
making sure the ink starts out exclusively on the mask so the only way
it gets over the label is via the squeegee.
- Be sure to test the solvent on the paint before using it on
the actual panel. I strongly suspect that it will remove rattle can
paint of just about any brand/type.
- You can use any type of ink including water based craft ink.
I chose the ADE because I didn't want to clearcoat the panel. Obviously
if you go with something like Walmart craft ink you'll want to clearcoat
it when finished.
Although I went with the same silkscreen supplier and ink type as Tim,
I'm sure that there are a LOT of choices out there (I'm just lazy).
Below are some links to get you started:
Tim's panel silkscreening web page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel/20051228/index.html
Silkscreen supplier:
http://www.silkscreenframes.com/vend/westar/screens.html
Nazdar ADE ink specs: http://www.nazdar.com/pdf/ADE_TDS_Rev_5_061127.pdf
Bob #40105
Message 7
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| Subject: | Bottom Cowl Nose Gear Notch |
I'm getting ready to put my fuse up on the gear but I'd like to make the cut
out for the nose gear in the bottom cowl before I take the fuse outside to
put the gear under it. If anyone remembers how big that notch was (measured
from the firewall) could they save me a little work?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skin rivets |
I would recommend solid rivets for MOST of the bottom wing skin. BUT I
would also recommend that you have a helper to either rivet or buck for
you. It makes it a lot easier to do the bottom skin with a helper.
There will be a number of places on the bottom skin that it is almost
impossible to buck the solid rivets and on those places I put in blind
rivets.
Best regards,
Russ Daves
N710RV - almost to 1st conditional inspection.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Duckworks lenses cracking |
Hi Ralph,
Tim is correct, the RV-10 lens has NO holes drilled in it.
Give me a call,
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
--> <recapen@earthlink.net>
The older ones are supposed to be drilled through.....on the 6's anyway...
Now I know there's a better way - maybe a retrofit too.....
I'll give Don a call...
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
Message 10
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| Subject: | Duckworks lenses cracking |
503-543-2298 rings as invalid....got it from the RV Yeller pages....
Better number?
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: don wentz <dasduck@comcast.net>
>Sent: Jun 18, 2007 2:31 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
>
>
>Hi Ralph,
>Tim is correct, the RV-10 lens has NO holes drilled in it.
>Give me a call,
>Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:06 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
>
>--> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>The older ones are supposed to be drilled through.....on the 6's anyway...
>
>Now I know there's a better way - maybe a retrofit too.....
>
>I'll give Don a call...
>
>Thanks
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 10:17 PM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV flyin BOONE, IA |
I certainly would have been there with my 10 if I had known about it.
Tom Deutsch
N588RV (80 hours)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV flyin BOONE, IA
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Dean's plane flew and sounded great, and it was indeed the only flying
RV-10 at Boone. There were several other -10 builders there and the
local folks (Adrian Moses and Lyle Bender) coordinated an RV-10 seminar
for potential new builders. Both of their planes were there but still
quite a ways from the flying stage however.
Thanks for the taxi service Dean!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV flyin BOONE, IA
Just a brief note on the RV flyin at Boone, IA today. I left KAUH at 7
AM with a fellow builder for KPMV to pick up Bruce Bluhm and Bob
Condrey (a full plane). We arrived at KBNW at 9:00AM and got a FRONT
row seat for the ONLY RV-10 at the show. All you other guys were
either in Canada, Niagra Falls, (TIM O) or too busy. Anyway, Adrian
Moses lead a forum on the RV 10 with BOB C. doing a talk on the kit and
options. It was a great day........little warm and muggy but that is
IOWA. We left at 12:05 and were home in GI, NE at 2 pm. I am now
meeting several fliers at KEAR at 6:30pm for Dinner then we will fly
home. I flew 1 hr 45 min to Boone and burned 22.5 gals. I flew 2
hours going home and burned 25.6 Gals. I love this plane. Gotta go
TO for KEAR.
Dean Sombke
N805HL
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Duckworks lenses cracking |
http://www.duckworksaviation.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 1:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
503-543-2298 rings as invalid....got it from the RV Yeller pages....
Better number?
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: don wentz <dasduck@comcast.net>
>Sent: Jun 18, 2007 2:31 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
>
>
>Hi Ralph,
>Tim is correct, the RV-10 lens has NO holes drilled in it.
>Give me a call,
>Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:06 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
>
>--> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>The older ones are supposed to be drilled through.....on the 6's anyway...
>
>Now I know there's a better way - maybe a retrofit too.....
>
>I'll give Don a call...
>
>Thanks
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 10:17 PM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lenses cracking
>
>
Message 13
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If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
Sam Marlow
RV10, #40157
Message 14
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Right on!
Dave Leikam
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 1:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: IYBIIWF
>
> If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
> Sam Marlow
> RV10, #40157
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | OAT probe location |
I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe (OAT). I
heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
others have used?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 16
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Awesome news Sam, but you gotta give us more...everyone's gonna be
hanging on their seats waiting to hear your report!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
sam.marlow@adelphia.net wrote:
>
> If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
> Sam Marlow
> RV10, #40157
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Silkscreening Your Panel |
Nice write up.
Kevin
40494
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Silkscreening Your Panel
I decided that if Tim could do it, so could I.
<snipped>
Bob #40105
Message 18
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Hello,
on page 49-03 in the plans it says to "consult the documentation included with
front seat assemblies regarding seat covering". Icant find those would anyone
be able to scan them and send them to me?
I am interested in how the seat covering will be done so I am happy if you could
send me pitures of your front & rearseats. Does the covering use a zipper?
Best Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119315#119315
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