Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:13 AM - Re: OAT probe location (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
2. 03:45 AM - Re: Seat Covering (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
3. 04:36 AM - Holes for conduit (Rob Hunter)
4. 05:04 AM - Re: Holes for conduit (Tim Olson)
5. 05:07 AM - Re: Holes for conduit (Jesse Saint)
6. 05:30 AM - Holes for conduit (Fred Williams, M.D.)
7. 05:51 AM - Re: Holes for conduit (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
8. 05:51 AM - Re: IYBIIWF (Sam Marlow)
9. 06:09 AM - Re: OAT probe location (Bob Newman)
10. 06:14 AM - Re: Holes for conduit (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
11. 06:30 AM - Re: OAT probe location (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
12. 06:32 AM - Re: OAT probe location (Tim Olson)
13. 06:35 AM - Flight Plan (Tom Deutsch)
14. 07:03 AM - Re: Holes for conduit (linn Walters)
15. 07:13 AM - Instrument Calibration (Tim Olson)
16. 07:15 AM - Re: Flight Plan (Tim Olson)
17. 07:31 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Phillips, Jack)
18. 07:40 AM - Re: Flight Plan (Tom Deutsch)
19. 08:08 AM - Re: Flight Plan (Werner Schneider)
20. 08:09 AM - Re: OAT probe location (Bob Newman)
21. 08:17 AM - Link update for first flight (Sam Marlow)
22. 08:17 AM - Re: Flight Plan (Randy Lervold)
23. 08:18 AM - Re: OAT probe location (Bob Newman)
24. 08:21 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (linn Walters)
25. 08:50 AM - Tour Alex's panel (John Ackerman)
26. 09:03 AM - ACS Experimental Door Handle (nick@nleonard.com)
27. 09:03 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Bob Newman)
28. 09:38 AM - Re: OAT probe location (ddddsp1@juno.com)
29. 09:47 AM - Deliveries from Dynon (Cal Hoffman)
30. 09:50 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (ddddsp1@juno.com)
31. 09:55 AM - Flasher (gary)
32. 10:06 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Tim Olson)
33. 10:30 AM - Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle (Deems Davis)
34. 10:30 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Rene Felker)
35. 10:38 AM - Re: Flasher (Randy Lervold)
36. 10:41 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Tim Olson)
37. 10:49 AM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
38. 11:10 AM - Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle (Rick)
39. 12:04 PM - Re: Deliveries from Dynon (gary)
40. 12:06 PM - Re: Flasher (gary)
41. 12:19 PM - Re: Instrument Calibration (linn Walters)
42. 12:35 PM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Eric Ekberg)
43. 12:49 PM - Re: Instrument Calibration (linn Walters)
44. 12:58 PM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Tim Olson)
45. 01:00 PM - Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle (nick@nleonard.com)
46. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle (Rick)
47. 01:24 PM - Re: Instrument Calibration (linn Walters)
48. 02:59 PM - Re: Holes for conduit (Rob Hunter)
49. 05:18 PM - Re: Deliveries from Dynon (Jesse Saint)
50. 06:30 PM - Re: IYBIIWF (John Jessen)
51. 06:47 PM - panel (Rick Leach)
52. 06:47 PM - Batteries (Rick Leach)
53. 06:58 PM - Cheetah FL190 (jdalton77)
54. 07:11 PM - Re: Batteries (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
55. 07:45 PM - Re: Batteries (Rick)
56. 07:46 PM - Re: Instrument Calibration (Chris)
57. 07:47 PM - Re: panel (Rick)
58. 08:34 PM - Re: IYBIIWF (Sam Marlow)
59. 10:11 PM - Re: Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle (Deems Davis)
60. 10:14 PM - Re: Flasher (kilopapa@antelecom.net)
61. 11:23 PM - Re: Deliveries from Dynon (The McGough Family)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
Each of my 2 EFIS units and my engine monitor came with a OAT probe. I
placed one on the most inboard right inspection panel under the wing and one in
each NACA vent. I've seen a lot of posts saying the NACA vents are a bad
location for various reasons, but in practice I've never seen the temperature be
different more than 1 degree between any of the probes when flying. (On the
ground, the sunny side NACA vent probe is typically higher.)
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/18/2007 10:43:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe (OAT). I
heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
others have used?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Seat Covering |
That documentation does not exist. I contacted Van's and Oregon Aero lookin
g
for it, to no avail. Attached is a picture of my seats. I had them covered
by a local upholstery shop in Nampa, ID, no documentation required.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.ne
t>
Hello,
on page 49-03 in the plans it says to "consult the documentation included
with front seat assemblies regarding seat covering". Ican=C2=B4t find those
would
anyone be able to scan them and send them to me?
I am interested in how the seat covering will be done so I am happy if you
could send me pitures of your front & rearseats. Does the covering use a
zipper?
Best Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Holes for conduit |
I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone
had an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already
riveted on one of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard part
of the wing between the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
Rob Hunter
40432
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat Covering
That documentation does not exist. I contacted Van's and Oregon Aero
looking for it, to no avail. Attached is a picture of my seats. I had
them covered by a local upholstery shop in Nampa, ID, no documentation
required.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
on page 49-03 in the plans it says to "consult the documentation
included with front seat assemblies regarding seat covering".
Ican=C2=B4t
find those would anyone be able to scan them and send them to me?
I am interested in how the seat covering will be done so I am happy if
you could send me pitures of your front & rearseats. Does the covering
use a zipper?
Best Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Holes for conduit |
Right angle drill adapter.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Hunter wrote:
> I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone
> had an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already
> riveted on one of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard part
> of the wing between the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
>
> Rob Hunter
> 40432
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *JSMcGrew@aol.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:45 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Seat Covering
>
> That documentation does not exist. I contacted Van's and Oregon Aero
> looking for it, to no avail. Attached is a picture of my seats. I
> had them covered by a local upholstery shop in Nampa, ID, no
> documentation required.
>
> -Jim
> 40134
>
>
> In a message dated 6/19/2007 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
>
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> on page 49-03 in the plans it says to "consult the
> documentation included with front seat assemblies regarding seat
> covering". Icant find those would anyone be able to scan them
> and send them to me?
>
> I am interested in how the seat covering will be done so I am
> happy if you could send me pitures of your front & rearseats.
> Does the covering use a zipper?
>
> Best Regards
> Michael
>
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (wings)
> #511
>
>
> Jim "Scooter" McGrew
> http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's free at AOL.com
> <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503>.
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Holes for conduit |
If you can find a way to extend the bit that would work. If you can
find a
chuck that has threads on it that will fit into a threaded extension,
that
is probably the best way. The other way is to find a 90 degree angle
adapter that will fit your bit. I know most of this is probably obvious
in
theory, just hard to find the tools to make it happen.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Hunter
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Holes for conduit
I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone
had
an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already riveted on
one
of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard part of the wing
between the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
Rob Hunter
40432
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat Covering
That documentation does not exist. I contacted Van's and Oregon Aero
looking
for it, to no avail. Attached is a picture of my seats. I had them
covered
by a local upholstery shop in Nampa, ID, no documentation required.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
on page 49-03 in the plans it says to "consult the documentation
included
with front seat assemblies regarding seat covering". Ican=C2=B4t find
those
would anyone be able to scan them and send them to me?
I am interested in how the seat covering will be done so I am happy if
you
could send me pitures of your front & rearseats. Does the covering use a
zipper?
Best Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Holes for conduit |
Rob;
Go to the local airplane parts warehouse and get an extension bit that
will fit the unibit. Put the extension thru to the rib that you want
drilled, then put the unibit on the the end of the extension. This is
what I had to do for the four ribs on the inboard side. A right angle
drill works good for the accessible ribs. Also, I would have run
another small conduit for the strobe lights. I ended up running my
wires with the main bundle. Only time will tell if I get interference
with the Bob Archer VOR antennae that I plan to put in the wingtip.
Dr Fred
40515
Fuse side panels riveted this weekend. Yea!
To Oshgosh first Sunday thru Tues in a 152. Looking forward to 8 hrs
of togetherness with my wife.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Holes for conduit |
Attached are photos of the set up I used to do this. The end piece was made
on a lathe with an allen set screw to hold the unibit in place.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 7:39:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rwhunter@integra.net writes:
I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone had
an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already riveted on one
of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard part of the wing between
the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
Rob Hunter
40432
Wings
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
It flew great but my indicated airspeed, according to the chase plane
was 20kts low. Can't figure that one out, static was checked and
certified day before flight. Here's a short link to my first flight. Sam
& Dan's RV10 <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv33iGGRHGE> Thank's to
all on the Matronics site who helped!
Sam
#40157
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Awesome news Sam, but you gotta give us more...everyone's gonna be
> hanging on their seats waiting to hear your report!
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> sam.marlow@adelphia.net wrote:
>>
>> If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
>> Sam Marlow
>> RV10, #40157
>>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
Here's my experience with OAT in Naca scoop. (This is in my Glastar)
I had a definite problem with indicated temps running from 7-10 degrees
high in stabilized cruise.(during the winter). The OAT probe was
mounted in the naca scoop but quite far back towards the scat tube.
The root issue was as the amount of air requested by adjusting the
eye-ball vent at the end of the scat tube as controlled by me the
airflow thru the naca scoop would change. This changed the ballance
between cold outside air flow over the oat probe and the amount of
heating of the naca scoop from inside the airplane. I could literally
adjust the eyeball vent and see a change in the indicated OAT
temperature. I'm quite sure that if the OAT probe were moved to near
the front of the scoop it would not have had such a dramatic effect.
Ultimately I removed the probe from the scoop and mounted at the bottom
of the gear leg fairing, just poking out into the slipstream.
-Bob
>>> JSMcGrew@aol.com 6/19/2007 6:11 AM >>>
Each of my 2 EFIS units and my engine monitor came with a OAT probe. I
placed one on the most inboard right inspection panel under the wing
and one in
each NACA vent. I've seen a lot of posts saying the NACA vents are a
bad
location for various reasons, but in practice I've never seen the
temperature be
different more than 1 degree between any of the probes when flying. (On
the
ground, the sunny side NACA vent probe is typically higher.)
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/18/2007 10:43:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe (OAT).
I
heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
others have used?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Holes for conduit |
The way I did it was to leave the original hole, for running the strobe
wire through, then I chose the lightning hole forward of the one with
the push/pull tube in it, and drilled a small #40 hole above each one
and lock wired corrugated tubing in, I did this, so that even if the
lock wire fails the tube still can not interfere with the controls,
additional I used tractor type grommet material for anti-abrasion on the
hole edge to keep chaffing the tube to the minimum. Easy and doable
after the bottom skins are on, just have to be a lock wire wiz, and
that's why the AP at the airport did it for me, because a wiz I am not!
Dan
N289DT RV10E (FAA inspection has been scheduled)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Hunter
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Holes for conduit
I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone
had an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already
riveted on one of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard part
of the wing between the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
Rob Hunter
40432
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 5:45 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat Covering
That documentation does not exist. I contacted Van's and Oregon Aero
looking for it, to no avail. Attached is a picture of my seats. I had
them covered by a local upholstery shop in Nampa, ID, no documentation
required.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 2:54:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
on page 49-03 in the plans it says to "consult the documentation
included with front seat assemblies regarding seat covering".
Ican=C2=B4t find those would anyone be able to scan them and send them
to me?
I am interested in how the seat covering will be done so I am happy if
you could send me pitures of your front & rearseats. Does the covering
use a zipper?
Best Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
That makes sense. It sounds like I placed mine a bit further forward than
you.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 9:11:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rnewman@lutron.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
Here's my experience with OAT in Naca scoop. (This is in my Glastar)
I had a definite problem with indicated temps running from 7-10 degrees
high in stabilized cruise.(during the winter). The OAT probe was
mounted in the naca scoop but quite far back towards the scat tube.
The root issue was as the amount of air requested by adjusting the
eye-ball vent at the end of the scat tube as controlled by me the
airflow thru the naca scoop would change. This changed the ballance
between cold outside air flow over the oat probe and the amount of
heating of the naca scoop from inside the airplane. I could literally
adjust the eyeball vent and see a change in the indicated OAT
temperature. I'm quite sure that if the OAT probe were moved to near
the front of the scoop it would not have had such a dramatic effect.
Ultimately I removed the probe from the scoop and mounted at the bottom
of the gear leg fairing, just poking out into the slipstream.
-Bob
>>> JSMcGrew@aol.com 6/19/2007 6:11 AM >>>
Each of my 2 EFIS units and my engine monitor came with a OAT probe. I
placed one on the most inboard right inspection panel under the wing
and one in
each NACA vent. I've seen a lot of posts saying the NACA vents are a
bad
location for various reasons, but in practice I've never seen the
temperature be
different more than 1 degree between any of the probes when flying. (On
the
ground, the sunny side NACA vent probe is typically higher.)
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/18/2007 10:43:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe (OAT).
I
heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
others have used?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
I'm just wondering.... knowing that factors such as the sun,
and engine heat, propwash, exhaust, vent opening/closing,
and things like that can affect OAT reading, why do people
even consider such poor mounting locations as the NACA inlet,
wing root fairing, and places like that.....other than because
it's an easy/lazy way to get yourself an OAT reading? Wouldn't
it be better just to take 20 extra minutes and run the wires
needed to give an accurate indication? On my system it's
treated as critical enough that you even have a calibration
procedure to adjust for compression effects of flying at
170kts and the slight rise in temp that you get from
airspeed changes. It's just disconcerting to see that people
just don't really seem to care about some things.
(This is not directed at you Bob, so please take no offense)
To continue the rant a little, I think i'll start a new post...
(I'm just in one of those moods today I guess)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> Here's my experience with OAT in Naca scoop. (This is in my Glastar)
> I had a definite problem with indicated temps running from 7-10 degrees
> high in stabilized cruise.(during the winter). The OAT probe was
> mounted in the naca scoop but quite far back towards the scat tube.
> The root issue was as the amount of air requested by adjusting the
> eye-ball vent at the end of the scat tube as controlled by me the
> airflow thru the naca scoop would change. This changed the ballance
> between cold outside air flow over the oat probe and the amount of
> heating of the naca scoop from inside the airplane. I could literally
> adjust the eyeball vent and see a change in the indicated OAT
> temperature. I'm quite sure that if the OAT probe were moved to near
> the front of the scoop it would not have had such a dramatic effect.
> Ultimately I removed the probe from the scoop and mounted at the bottom
> of the gear leg fairing, just poking out into the slipstream.
>
> -Bob
>
>>>> JSMcGrew@aol.com 6/19/2007 6:11 AM >>>
>
>
> Each of my 2 EFIS units and my engine monitor came with a OAT probe. I
>
> placed one on the most inboard right inspection panel under the wing
> and one in
> each NACA vent. I've seen a lot of posts saying the NACA vents are a
> bad
> location for various reasons, but in practice I've never seen the
> temperature be
> different more than 1 degree between any of the probes when flying. (On
> the
> ground, the sunny side NACA vent probe is typically higher.)
>
> -Jim
> 40134
>
> In a message dated 6/18/2007 10:43:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe (OAT).
> I
> heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
>
> inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
> others have used?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
> Jim "Scooter" McGrew
> _http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
What are you flying guys using for your aircraft type when filing a
flight plan? Duats doesn't want to recognize RV10 as an aircraft type.
Tom Deutsch
#40545
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Holes for conduit |
Rob Hunter wrote:
> I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone
> had an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already
> riveted on one of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard
> part of the wing between the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
>
> Rob Hunter
> 40432
> Wings
Faced with this situation on other projects, I used a chuck from a drill
that had already been removed and purchased a piece of threaded rod to
fit the chuck. I've had to use more than one piece of threaded rod, and
they have long nuts to attach them together. The nice thing about
Unibits is that they are 'self centering'. For my application, though,
I needed a drilled hole, and the threaded rod was too limber for me to
be able to hit my target. I was reduced to using a piece of PVC pipe
with a plug in the end. I drilled the plug the same size as the
threaded rod, and pushed the threaded rod through the hole and attached
the chuck with the unibit. I could feed the chuck through the holes I
had and the PVC pipe helped center the drill bit where I wanted it.
Now, I'm a little older, and a little wiser. In the tool section of
your local hardware store, you'll find bit extensions in reasonable to
very long lengths. A lot more pricey than threaded rod, they have a
'bushing' with a set screw ...... get ones that fit your Unibit. You
can 'stack' them (like I did with the threaded rod) and the PVC trick
should work as well.
Hope this helps.
Linn
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Instrument Calibration |
Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
It's frustrating for me to see people who don't do diligence in
their avionics calibration and flight testing. I think we all
owe it to our hard work to get flying to make our systems as good
as we can, and I really can't fathom some of the lack of follow-through
that I sometimes hear. Let me give you 2 examples that are even
RV-10 specific...
One RV-10 I know of, built for sale, not for personal use, had
been flown THROUGH it's flyoff period, and had over 50 hours on
it with this issue: The GRT EIS is very nice, but the manual takes
some focus to actually read and perform the proper calibrations of
some probes. You need to enter scale factors and offsets for
various probes that are factor known numbers, and some like fuel
calibrations you have to do a little simple math. Well, this
particular RV-10 builder didn't enter scale factors and offsets
for the oil and fuel pressure sensors, among others. They told
me how the "Oil pressure was running too high so I cranked it
down about 20psi to get it into the proper range." Well, that
doesn't seem to be such a brilliant move, given the transducer
calibration numbers were never entered....now that plane is
flying with a false reading, with pressure adjusted to show
as good....all due to lack of diligence. The same plane had
CONSTANT alarms for fuel flow (or maybe it was pressure) due
to a similar problem, and I personally saw fuel pressure (or
was it flow) readings of 65,000. Hmmm....makes you wonder. Good
thing it wasn't built to keep, but built to sell, right? Doesn't
make a damn bit of difference to me, because it's still in my
freaking insurance pool.
Next, there's the RV-10 that exhibits physics-defying fuel flows.
Burns something like 11 or 12gph at 25 squared. Takeoff flows
are down in that range too. Seems a bit strange to me, given
the Lycoming power chart
(see http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf)
clearly showing that this isn't possible. 25 squared should
yield something like 18-19gph. Takeoff flows will be 24-29gph
approx. But, the flyoff period is ended, and there's no obligation
on anyone's part to perform any calibrations necessary to get
accurate readings.
I'm just hoping that this perhaps encourages you as builders
to try to obtain at least safe, and accurate instrument
calibrations for your equipment. You can't do it without
reading the manuals, and you probably will have questions
and have to ask the manufacturer. Even a pre-built panel
from a panel maker will NOT have all of these calibrations
performed....we're EXPERIMENTAL, and it's up to the BUILDER
to do these things. Why does this matter to me? Because I
pay the same insurance company (AIG) to cover my plane as many
other builders do, and if someone else has a loss, it affects
me. Not to mention the fact that is even bigger...these
people are RV-10 building friends, and when we finally lose
our first one, which is a statistical inevitability, it's
going to be a sad day for all. Let's at least try to get
a few good years out of it before this happens so we don't
give homebuilding, or RV-10's a bad name. Do your diligence.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 245+
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Keep trying to use RV10 whenever you can, but some software/services
isn't up to speed on it yet. In those cases, use HXB and put
RV-10 in the comments. I think RV-10 is official, but just not
in all venues yet.
I'm also going to start putting "NOT A CIRRUS" in the comments, because
I had to listed to ATC keep calling me "CIRRUS 104CD" about a million
times this weekend, despite my repeated callbacks of "experimental".
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tom Deutsch wrote:
> What are you flying guys using for your aircraft type when filing a
> flight plan? Duats doesnt want to recognize RV10 as an aircraft type.
>
>
>
> Tom Deutsch
>
> #40545
>
> *
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Instrument Calibration |
Good post, as usual, Tim
Jack Phillips
Finally riveting the tailcone on #40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Instrument Calibration
Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
It's frustrating for me to see people who don't do diligence in their
avionics calibration and flight testing. I think we all owe it to our
hard work to get flying to make our systems as good as we can, and I
really can't fathom some of the lack of follow-through that I sometimes
hear. Let me give you 2 examples that are even RV-10 specific...
One RV-10 I know of, built for sale, not for personal use, had been
flown THROUGH it's flyoff period, and had over 50 hours on it with this
issue: The GRT EIS is very nice, but the manual takes some focus to
actually read and perform the proper calibrations of some probes. You
need to enter scale factors and offsets for various probes that are
factor known numbers, and some like fuel calibrations you have to do a
little simple math. Well, this particular RV-10 builder didn't enter
scale factors and offsets for the oil and fuel pressure sensors, among
others. They told me how the "Oil pressure was running too high so I
cranked it down about 20psi to get it into the proper range." Well,
that doesn't seem to be such a brilliant move, given the transducer
calibration numbers were never entered....now that plane is flying with
a false reading, with pressure adjusted to show as good....all due to
lack of diligence. The same plane had CONSTANT alarms for fuel flow (or
maybe it was pressure) due to a similar problem, and I personally saw
fuel pressure (or was it flow) readings of 65,000. Hmmm....makes you
wonder. Good thing it wasn't built to keep, but built to sell, right?
Doesn't make a damn bit of difference to me, because it's still in my
freaking insurance pool.
Next, there's the RV-10 that exhibits physics-defying fuel flows.
Burns something like 11 or 12gph at 25 squared. Takeoff flows are down
in that range too. Seems a bit strange to me, given the Lycoming power
chart (see http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf)
clearly showing that this isn't possible. 25 squared should yield
something like 18-19gph. Takeoff flows will be 24-29gph approx. But,
the flyoff period is ended, and there's no obligation on anyone's part
to perform any calibrations necessary to get accurate readings.
I'm just hoping that this perhaps encourages you as builders to try to
obtain at least safe, and accurate instrument calibrations for your
equipment. You can't do it without reading the manuals, and you
probably will have questions and have to ask the manufacturer. Even a
pre-built panel from a panel maker will NOT have all of these
calibrations performed....we're EXPERIMENTAL, and it's up to the BUILDER
to do these things. Why does this matter to me? Because I pay the same
insurance company (AIG) to cover my plane as many other builders do, and
if someone else has a loss, it affects me. Not to mention the fact that
is even bigger...these people are RV-10 building friends, and when we
finally lose our first one, which is a statistical inevitability, it's
going to be a sad day for all. Let's at least try to get a few good
years out of it before this happens so we don't give homebuilding, or
RV-10's a bad name. Do your diligence.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying 245+
_________________________________________________
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Thanks Tim, I have seen an official FAA site somewhere where they
publish all the aircraft designators that ATC officially recognizes but
can't seem to find it now. It also gave climb and cruise specs for each
designated aircraft. It was interesting to see their take on performance
of all the different GA aircraft. (they even included the all the
military aircraft performances) Yesterday they kept asking me if I was
an RV8. I guess because of my N number. Duats says that if they don't
recognize the aircraft type just put in ZZZZ which I did and put
"aircraft type RV10") in the remarks. It didn't seem to help. I just
wondered if RV-10 would work.
Tom Deutsch N588RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flight Plan
Keep trying to use RV10 whenever you can, but some software/services
isn't up to speed on it yet. In those cases, use HXB and put
RV-10 in the comments. I think RV-10 is official, but just not
in all venues yet.
I'm also going to start putting "NOT A CIRRUS" in the comments, because
I had to listed to ATC keep calling me "CIRRUS 104CD" about a million
times this weekend, despite my repeated callbacks of "experimental".
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tom Deutsch wrote:
> What are you flying guys using for your aircraft type when filing a
> flight plan? Duats doesn't want to recognize RV10 as an aircraft
type.
>
>
>
> Tom Deutsch
>
> #40545
>
> *
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Tom, goto
<http://www.icao.int/anb/ais/8643/index.cfm>
put in the manufactures box VAN'S and you get RV10
That is the official ICAO code, maybe Duats should update their database?
br Werner
Tom Deutsch wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim, I have seen an official FAA site somewhere where they
> publish all the aircraft designators that ATC officially recognizes but
> can't seem to find it now. It also gave climb and cruise specs for each
> designated aircraft. It was interesting to see their take on performance
> of all the different GA aircraft. (they even included the all the
> military aircraft performances) Yesterday they kept asking me if I was
> an RV8. I guess because of my N number. Duats says that if they don't
> recognize the aircraft type just put in ZZZZ which I did and put
> "aircraft type RV10") in the remarks. It didn't seem to help. I just
> wondered if RV-10 would work.
>
> Tom Deutsch N588RV
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:15 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flight Plan
>
>
> Keep trying to use RV10 whenever you can, but some software/services
> isn't up to speed on it yet. In those cases, use HXB and put
> RV-10 in the comments. I think RV-10 is official, but just not
> in all venues yet.
>
> I'm also going to start putting "NOT A CIRRUS" in the comments, because
> I had to listed to ATC keep calling me "CIRRUS 104CD" about a million
> times this weekend, despite my repeated callbacks of "experimental".
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Tom Deutsch wrote:
>
>> What are you flying guys using for your aircraft type when filing a
>> flight plan? Duats doesn't want to recognize RV10 as an aircraft
>>
> type.
>
>>
>>
>> Tom Deutsch
>>
>> #40545
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
Jim, Yours are definetly in a better position than mine were. When
we installed them we were going for stealth. But we outsmarted
ourselves!
>>> JSMcGrew@aol.com 6/19/2007 9:27 AM >>>
That makes sense. It sounds like I placed mine a bit further forward
than
you.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/19/2007 9:11:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rnewman@lutron.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
Here's my experience with OAT in Naca scoop. (This is in my Glastar)
I had a definite problem with indicated temps running from 7-10
degrees
high in stabilized cruise.(during the winter). The OAT probe was
mounted in the naca scoop but quite far back towards the scat tube.
The root issue was as the amount of air requested by adjusting the
eye-ball vent at the end of the scat tube as controlled by me the
airflow thru the naca scoop would change. This changed the ballance
between cold outside air flow over the oat probe and the amount of
heating of the naca scoop from inside the airplane. I could
literally
adjust the eyeball vent and see a change in the indicated OAT
temperature. I'm quite sure that if the OAT probe were moved to near
the front of the scoop it would not have had such a dramatic effect.
Ultimately I removed the probe from the scoop and mounted at the
bottom
of the gear leg fairing, just poking out into the slipstream.
-Bob
>>> JSMcGrew@aol.com 6/19/2007 6:11 AM >>>
Each of my 2 EFIS units and my engine monitor came with a OAT probe. I
placed one on the most inboard right inspection panel under the wing
and one in
each NACA vent. I've seen a lot of posts saying the NACA vents are a
bad
location for various reasons, but in practice I've never seen the
temperature be
different more than 1 degree between any of the probes when flying.
(On
the
ground, the sunny side NACA vent probe is typically higher.)
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/18/2007 10:43:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe
(OAT).
I
heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
others have used?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Link update for first flight |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0Qoo7UuxVA
Sam Marlow wrote:
> It flew great but my indicated airspeed, according to the chase plane
> was 20kts low. Can't figure that one out, static was checked and
> certified day before flight. Here's a short link to my first flight.
> Sam & Dan's RV10 <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv33iGGRHGE> Thank's
> to all on the Matronics site who helped!
> Sam
> #40157
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Awesome news Sam, but you gotta give us more...everyone's gonna be
>> hanging on their seats waiting to hear your report!
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> sam.marlow@adelphia.net wrote:
>>>
>>> If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
>>> Sam Marlow
>>> RV10, #40157
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
If they dont' recognize RV10 then use "HXB" (Experimental, cruise 91-190
kts)
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:38 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flight Plan
>
> Thanks Tim, I have seen an official FAA site somewhere where they
> publish all the aircraft designators that ATC officially recognizes but
> can't seem to find it now. It also gave climb and cruise specs for each
> designated aircraft. It was interesting to see their take on performance
> of all the different GA aircraft. (they even included the all the
> military aircraft performances) Yesterday they kept asking me if I was
> an RV8. I guess because of my N number. Duats says that if they don't
> recognize the aircraft type just put in ZZZZ which I did and put
> "aircraft type RV10") in the remarks. It didn't seem to help. I just
> wondered if RV-10 would work.
>
> Tom Deutsch N588RV
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:15 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flight Plan
>
>
> Keep trying to use RV10 whenever you can, but some software/services
> isn't up to speed on it yet. In those cases, use HXB and put
> RV-10 in the comments. I think RV-10 is official, but just not
> in all venues yet.
>
> I'm also going to start putting "NOT A CIRRUS" in the comments, because
> I had to listed to ATC keep calling me "CIRRUS 104CD" about a million
> times this weekend, despite my repeated callbacks of "experimental".
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Tom Deutsch wrote:
>> What are you flying guys using for your aircraft type when filing a
>> flight plan? Duats doesn't want to recognize RV10 as an aircraft
> type.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom Deutsch
>>
>> #40545
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
No offense taken. We were adding OAT to an already built plane,
before we fully appreciated the effects or criticality of its position.
Pulling new wires to a new location in a plane with a very full and
complete interior is quite a project. However, given 20/10 hindsight
it would have been way less work to do it right the first time !! That
mistake I will not make again...(oh yeah, one other thing, when we
originally did this, we were VFR only and OAT was just nice to have,
now that I have IFR capabilty, the attention to these types of detail
moved up by orders of magnitude)
-Bob
>>> Tim@MyRV10.com 6/19/2007 9:32 AM >>>
I'm just wondering.... knowing that factors such as the sun,
and engine heat, propwash, exhaust, vent opening/closing,
and things like that can affect OAT reading, why do people
even consider such poor mounting locations as the NACA inlet,
wing root fairing, and places like that.....other than because
it's an easy/lazy way to get yourself an OAT reading? Wouldn't
it be better just to take 20 extra minutes and run the wires
needed to give an accurate indication? On my system it's
treated as critical enough that you even have a calibration
procedure to adjust for compression effects of flying at
170kts and the slight rise in temp that you get from
airspeed changes. It's just disconcerting to see that people
just don't really seem to care about some things.
(This is not directed at you Bob, so please take no offense)
To continue the rant a little, I think i'll start a new post...
(I'm just in one of those moods today I guess)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> Here's my experience with OAT in Naca scoop. (This is in my
Glastar)
> I had a definite problem with indicated temps running from 7-10
degrees
> high in stabilized cruise.(during the winter). The OAT probe was
> mounted in the naca scoop but quite far back towards the scat tube.
> The root issue was as the amount of air requested by adjusting the
> eye-ball vent at the end of the scat tube as controlled by me the
> airflow thru the naca scoop would change. This changed the
ballance
> between cold outside air flow over the oat probe and the amount of
> heating of the naca scoop from inside the airplane. I could
literally
> adjust the eyeball vent and see a change in the indicated OAT
> temperature. I'm quite sure that if the OAT probe were moved to
near
> the front of the scoop it would not have had such a dramatic effect.
> Ultimately I removed the probe from the scoop and mounted at the
bottom
> of the gear leg fairing, just poking out into the slipstream.
>
> -Bob
>
>>>> JSMcGrew@aol.com 6/19/2007 6:11 AM >>>
>
>
> Each of my 2 EFIS units and my engine monitor came with a OAT probe.
I
>
> placed one on the most inboard right inspection panel under the wing
> and one in
> each NACA vent. I've seen a lot of posts saying the NACA vents are a
> bad
> location for various reasons, but in practice I've never seen the
> temperature be
> different more than 1 degree between any of the probes when flying.
(On
> the
> ground, the sunny side NACA vent probe is typically higher.)
>
> -Jim
> 40134
>
> In a message dated 6/18/2007 10:43:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I need to determine the location for the Outside Air Temp probe
(OAT).
> I
> heard from one builder that placed it on the bottom of the wing on an
>
> inspection panel. Are there other god / alternative locations that
> others have used?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Engine Stuff & Probes/Sensors
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
> Jim "Scooter" McGrew
> _http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
snip!
Short? :-)
But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
place to put the temp probe!!!
Linn
do not archive
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tour Alex's panel |
For those of us who, like me, missed this the first time around,
here's a nice tour of Alex De Dominici's panel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-SPuvrRHNc&mode=related&search
Alex's site is:
http://www.rvtraining.com/
more videos there.
John Ackerman 40458
do not archive
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | ACS Experimental Door Handle |
Has anyone (else) installed the "Experimental Door Handle" set? I worked out the
layout and install of the outside flush billet and it came out looking great.
I had thought I had worked out how the inside mechanism was going to fit but
it will be a little tighter than I thought and will take some "special" engineering
(fiberglass work).
Has anyone already installed one of these and can provide any guidance and pictures.
Sure could use some advise here, other than don't do it/use someting else/what
were you thinking.
Thanks,
Nick
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119417#119417
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
In my case, (with the glastar) I put the OAT probe sticking out of the
bottom of the gear leg fairing, I don't yet have a place picked for my
rv-10.
-bob
>>> pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net 6/19/2007 11:22 AM >>>
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
snip!
Short? :-)
But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
place to put the temp probe!!!
Linn
do not archive
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
Tim,
Starting a fight online? lol..............Did you get some bad mist o
ff the Niagara that put you in this mood?
INJEST>
Dean 805HL
_____________________________________________________________
Click to find anyone's secrets with an instant background check
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/Ioyw6iifQigaGWX
AtKuF8liLTeAYbuUJEjci6dNHjIpMMyipGnaasc/
<html><P>Tim,</P>
<P>Starting a fight online? lol..............Did you g
et some bad mist off the Niagara that put you in this mood? &
nbsp; </P>
<P>INJEST></P>
<P>Dean 805HL</P>
<font face=Times-New-Roman size=2><br><br>__________________________
___________________________________<br><a href="http://track.juno.com/
s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/Ioyw6iifQigaGWXAtKuF8liLTeAYbuUJEjci6
dNHjIpMMyipGnaasc/">Click to find anyone's secrets with an instant backg
round check</a><br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Deliveries from Dynon |
Is it just me or is anyone else having trouble getting delivery from
Dynon? After reading their ad touting shipping out of inventory, my
engine monitor was to take 81 days to get to Spruce (21 June), which I
thought a tad excessive. It is not here yet!! The individual from
Spruce was going to check, but no longer answers my e-mails.
Cal Hoffman
40119 (final wiring through firewall)
do not archive
Change the world one loan at a time - visit Kiva.org to find out how
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Next, there's the RV-10 that exhibits physics-defying fuel flows.
Burns something like 11 or 12gph at 25 squared. Takeoff flows
are down in that range too. Seems a bit strange to me, given
the Lycoming power chart
(see http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf)
clearly showing that this isn't possible. 25 squared should
yield something like 18-19gph. Takeoff flows will be 24-29gph
approx. But, the flyoff period is ended, and there's no obligation
on anyone's part to perform any calibrations necessary to get
accurate readings.
Tim is talking about my O-540 in the above paragraph. I have talked to
other people about these numbers and they have seen numbers close to min
e but not nearly as high as Tim suggests. I have not ENDED my testing
or calibrating as Tim states...........I consider every flight a test fl
ight and continue to fine tune the aircraft. I am only reporting the ac
tual numbers/Gallons/etc that I am seeing on my plane so far. If it bot
hers people that I do that I will cease posting.
Safe flying,
DEAN
_____________________________________________________________
Click to find anyone's secrets with an instant background check
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/Ioyw6iifQigaGWX
AtKuF8liLTeAYbuUJEjci6dNHjIpMMyipGnaasc/
<html><P>Next, there's the RV-10 that exhibits physics-defying fuel flow
s.<BR>Burns something like 11 or 12gph at 25 squared. Takeoff flow
s<BR>are down in that range too. Seems a bit strange to me, given<
BR>the Lycoming power chart<BR>(see <A class=m1 href="http://www.myr
v10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf" target=_blank><FONT col
or=#346da2>http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf
</FONT></A>)<BR>clearly showing that this isn't possible. 25 squar
ed should<BR>yield something like 18-19gph. Takeoff flows will be
24-29gph<BR>approx. But, the flyoff period is ended, and there's n
o obligation<BR>on anyone's part to perform any calibrations necessary t
o get<BR>accurate readings.<BR> </P>
<P> </P>
<P>Tim is talking about my O-540 in the above paragraph. I have ta
lked to other people about these numbers and they have seen numbers clos
e to mine but not nearly as high as Tim suggests. I have not
ENDED my testing or calibrating as Tim states...........I consider ever
y flight a test flight and continue to fine tune the aircraft. I a
m only reporting the actual numbers/Gallons/etc that I am seeing on my p
lane so far. If it bothers people that I do that I will cease post
ing. </P>
<P>Safe flying,</P>
<P>DEAN</P>
<font face=Times-New-Roman size=2><br><br>__________________________
___________________________________<br><a href="http://track.juno.com/
s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/Ioyw6iifQigaGWXAtKuF8liLTeAYbuUJEjci6
dNHjIpMMyipGnaasc/">Click to find anyone's secrets with an instant backg
round check</a><br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I need some help from you electronic minded folks. I want to flash the
indicator light in my master buss switch when I leave it on by mistake. I
bought an auto flasher but it has 4 unlabled pins I tried to hook it up by
looking at it but I suspect that the LED in the switch is not drawing enough
current to trigger it
Has any one designed a flashing circuit? Suggestions
Gary
40274
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
completely remove the inspection panel.
There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
locations than good ones.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
linn Walters wrote:
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
>
> snip!
>
> Short? :-)
>
> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
> place to put the temp probe!!!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle |
I believe that Rick Sked went this way.
Deems
nick@nleonard.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone (else) installed the "Experimental Door Handle" set? I worked out
the layout and install of the outside flush billet and it came out looking great.
I had thought I had worked out how the inside mechanism was going to fit
but it will be a little tighter than I thought and will take some "special" engineering
(fiberglass work).
>
> Has anyone already installed one of these and can provide any guidance and pictures.
Sure could use some advise here, other than don't do it/use someting
else/what were you thinking.
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119417#119417
>
>
>
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Instrument Calibration |
Tim, are you just mounting the probe with no external exposure? Or, did you
drill a hole in the skin and project the end of the probe out into the slip
stream? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference, but I am sure
the inside of the wing heats up in the sunshine and does not cool off all
that quickly
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Calibration
Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
completely remove the inspection panel.
There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
locations than good ones.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
linn Walters wrote:
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
>
> snip!
>
> Short? :-)
>
> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
> place to put the temp probe!!!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Just use a B&C LR3C alternator controller (voltage regulator). It has a low
voltage warning light that automatically flashes whenever the alternator
isn't charging.
Randy
RV-3B
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flasher
>
> I need some help from you electronic minded folks. I want to flash the
> indicator light in my master buss switch when I leave it on by mistake. I
> bought an auto flasher but it has 4 unlabled pins I tried to hook it up by
> looking at it but I suspect that the LED in the switch is not drawing
> enough
> current to trigger it
>
> Has any one designed a flashing circuit? Suggestions
> Gary
> 40274
>
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
It does need to be out in the airflow...not just in the wing.
Holes involved.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rene Felker wrote:
>
> Tim, are you just mounting the probe with no external exposure? Or, did you
> drill a hole in the skin and project the end of the probe out into the slip
> stream? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference, but I am sure
> the inside of the wing heats up in the sunshine and does not cool off all
> that quickly
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 40322
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:06 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Calibration
>
>
> Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
> ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
> that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
> such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
> wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
> becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
> you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
> wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
> it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
> The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
> for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
> diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
> near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
> you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
> as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
>
> My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
> Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
> panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
> completely remove the inspection panel.
>
> There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
> locations than good ones.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
>> snip!
>>
>> Short? :-)
>>
>> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
>> place to put the temp probe!!!
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Instrument Calibration |
Regardless of instrumentation, gallons needed to top off the tank, etc.
a Lycoming engine has a BSFC (brake specific fuel comsumption) of around
.43-.48 depending on leaning and exact RPM. A fuel injected engine with
electronic ignition and a balanced set of GAMI injectors will do a bit
better - maybe getting down around .40. This fuel consumption rate is
driven by the physics of the engine design. This BSFC is specified as
pounds of fuel per horsepower per hour. This is horsepower being
produced, not the rated horsepower. As an example, a 260 HP engine at
75% (rough performance at 8000 feet) is producing only 195 HP. Using
the low end of the BSFC range we get: 195 HP * .43 = 83.85 pounds per
hour. That divided by 6 (avgas weight per gallon) equals 13.975 gallons
per hour which very closely matches a Lycoming power chart. Producing
more HP (lower altitude for example) would burn more fuel. Obviously
doing something like running lean of peak you'll do better but it's not
likely to be something you're going to be doing down low.
For reference, below is an extract from an article on proper leaning of
an engine and expected fuel consumption results. Note that the Aztec
with a 250 HP engine is very close to what we're dealing with. Also
note that if you use the above formula you wind up with a BSFC of .4352
when leaned for best economy:
Leaning the normally aspirated, direct drive Lycoming engine at cruise
vs. full rich at 4,000 feet density altitude, 75% power
Engine Model
Airplane Model
300 HP
Piper Cherokee 300
Full Rich
Best Economy (Peak EGT)
Hours Rich
Hours Lean
19+ gals
15.6 gals.
4.2 hrs.
5.1 hrs.
Engine Model
Airplane Model
250 HP
Piper Aztec
Full Rich
Best Economy (Peak EGT)
Hours Rich
Hours Lean
16.2 gals
13.6 gals.
4.3 hrs.
5.1 hrs.
Engine Model
Airplane Model
180 HP
Cessna Cardinal
Full Rich
Best Economy (Peak EGT)
Hours Rich
Hours Lean
11.9 gals
9.7 gals.
4.1 hrs.
5.1 hrs.
There are a lot of possibilities but none of them include modifying the
engine physics. So what are the possibilities? Maybe not producing
expected horsepower for a variety of reasons (compression issue, tach
reading high, etc), fuel flow not calibrated, bad measurement of fuel to
top off tank, etc.
Hopefully Dean will post the results of his additional testing so we can
all learn from it so when it's time for our own testing we'll be better
prepared with real life examples.
Bob #40105
STILL finishing up - wishing all I had left to do was resolve issues
like this...
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Calibration
Next, there's the RV-10 that exhibits physics-defying fuel flows.
Burns something like 11 or 12gph at 25 squared. Takeoff flows
are down in that range too. Seems a bit strange to me, given
the Lycoming power chart
(see http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf
<http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/Lyc-540-Power.pdf> )
clearly showing that this isn't possible. 25 squared should
yield something like 18-19gph. Takeoff flows will be 24-29gph
approx. But, the flyoff period is ended, and there's no obligation
on anyone's part to perform any calibrations necessary to get
accurate readings.
Tim is talking about my O-540 in the above paragraph. I have talked to
other people about these numbers and they have seen numbers close to
mine but not nearly as high as Tim suggests. I have not ENDED my
testing or calibrating as Tim states...........I consider every flight a
test flight and continue to fine tune the aircraft. I am only reporting
the actual numbers/Gallons/etc that I am seeing on my plane so far. If
it bothers people that I do that I will cease posting.
Safe flying,
DEAN
_____________________________________________________________
Click to find anyone's secrets with an instant background check
<http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/Ioyw6iifQigaGWX
A
tKuF8liLTeAYbuUJEjci6dNHjIpMMyipGnaasc/>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle |
Yes I have those handles and they do require some door mods, nothing major. The
area aft of the handle in the door pocket needs to be cut away to allow the assembly
to fit in the door. and you need to put a shallow Z bend in the pushrod
to allow it to go from the inner door panel up to the attach point on the handle.
Don't don't glue the area in the door handle pocket, the recess of the handle
is only as thich as the outer door skin. Cut this out prior to glueing the
door inner skin. After the doors are assembled you can add pieces of the glass
back to the outer skin above and below the door hadle assembly. I am making
door ulpholstery skins that will be covered ala the Deem's method. I will add
spacers to the interior handle so that it exits the finished door panel via
a hole the same size as the handle barrel. I made different handles for the interior
that are similar to the Coss Aviation handles out of some 3/16 2024 aluminum
with lightening holes and then polished to a nice finish. There will be
no recess for my interior handles, the only thing you will see it the handle,
spaced out from the door just enough to allow you to move it forward and aft.
I am still considering a spring lock of some kind but the latches do over center
well and it should not be needed but I may do it to stop an inadvertent movement
of the latch. A simple pip pin may work fine or a spring loaed pin that
you pull to release the handle to move. I have not finished this part of the doors
yet. I do plan on laying up some fiberglass over the entire latch mechanisim
to add some strength back to the door panel. I have disassembled the latch
to see fi there might be some wear issues in the future, any of the parts that
may wear can be removed from the latch and replaced so permantly mounting the
main part should not be an issue. Be warned that there are a few springs and
little pieces on the interior that will fly if you not careful. I took mine aprt
inside a large, clear ziplock bag. If I hadn't done this I am sure I would
have lost!
parts.
The manufacturer warns against disassembly for this reason. My Dad told me the
same thing about flashlights and that didn't stop me from doing it. I feel pretty
confident in my mechanical skills so I chanced it. If I had to do it over
I might have gone with the Coss handles becasue they are designed to fit in the
pocket molded in the doors. Mine work fine, I just need to layup my finish panels
to show how it will look when done. I can't post any pics till next week.
I on the road till Sunday night.
Rick S.
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Deliveries from Dynon |
I too am waiting for delivery from Stein. When I called Dynon they assured
me very firmly that it would be 12 weeks from time of order. I don't know
the exact date Stein ordered, but he said it was in March. I will try and
nail down the exact dates.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cal Hoffman
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Deliveries from Dynon
Is it just me or is anyone else having trouble getting delivery from Dynon?
After reading their ad touting shipping out of inventory, my engine monitor
was to take 81 days to get to Spruce (21 June), which I thought a tad
excessive. It is not here yet!! The individual from Spruce was going to
check, but no longer answers my e-mails.
Cal Hoffman
40119 (final wiring through firewall)
do not archive
Change the world one loan at a time - visit Kiva.org to find out how
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I am not real anxious to trash my current system with internal regulators
and start over.
I had thought of that though. I wonder if they have just the warning
circuit available.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flasher
Just use a B&C LR3C alternator controller (voltage regulator). It has a low
voltage warning light that automatically flashes whenever the alternator
isn't charging.
Randy
RV-3B
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flasher
>
> I need some help from you electronic minded folks. I want to flash the
> indicator light in my master buss switch when I leave it on by mistake. I
> bought an auto flasher but it has 4 unlabled pins I tried to hook it up by
> looking at it but I suspect that the LED in the switch is not drawing
> enough
> current to trigger it
>
> Has any one designed a flashing circuit? Suggestions
> Gary
> 40274
>
>
>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Thanks Tim. I had occasion to work on my wifes Lincoln Towncar (I hate
paying someone to do what I can still do) and was searching for the mass
airflow sensor. I found it, and I also found the OAT sensor. Both are
located close to each other in the incoming air ducting for the engine.
I'm not sure that the air intake for our engines wouldn't be a bad place
for a temp sensor, but I have a lot of time to do some research. On the
Lincold the ducting sits near the hood, kinda beside the engine Vs. over
it, and after sitting and getting heat soaked ...... the sensor reads
the same before and after starting the engine. Kinda flies in the face
of reason, but the temp readout in the panel just doesn't change! Go
figure!
Linn
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
> ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
> that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
> such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
> wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
> becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
> you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
> wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
> it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
> The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
> for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
> diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
> near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
> you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
> as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
>
> My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
> Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
> panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
> completely remove the inspection panel.
>
> There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
> locations than good ones.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>
>> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
>>
>>
>> snip!
>>
>> Short? :-)
>>
>> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
>> place to put the temp probe!!!
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>
>
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Hi,
Not often I can chime in with potentially helpful info, so I'm taking the
opportunity. The temp sensor for a car engine and your aircraft serve two
different purposes. The temp sensor for the car is for the purpose of
the engine computer to calculate the mass of air entering the engine. In
that case the car cares about what is actually going in the engine and less
about the air outside of the car. The pupose of the aircraft OAT (outisde
air temp) is to determine the temperature of the air mass you are moving
through, not necessarily the temperature of the air entering the engine.
Eric. do not archive
On 6/19/07, linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Tim. I had occasion to work on my wifes Lincoln Towncar (I hate
> paying someone to do what I can still do) and was searching for the mass
> airflow sensor. I found it, and I also found the OAT sensor. Both are
> located close to each other in the incoming air ducting for the engine.
> I'm not sure that the air intake for our engines wouldn't be a bad place
> for a temp sensor, but I have a lot of time to do some research. On the
> Lincold the ducting sits near the hood, kinda beside the engine Vs. over
> it, and after sitting and getting heat soaked ...... the sensor reads
> the same before and after starting the engine. Kinda flies in the face
> of reason, but the temp readout in the panel just doesn't change! Go
> figure!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
> >
> > Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
> > ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
> > that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
> > such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
> > wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
> > becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
> > you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
> > wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
> > it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
> > The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
> > for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
> > diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
> > near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
> > you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
> > as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
> >
> > My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
> > Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
> > panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
> > completely remove the inspection panel.
> >
> > There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
> > locations than good ones.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > linn Walters wrote:
> >
> >> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >> Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
> >>
> >>
> >> snip!
> >>
> >> Short? :-)
> >>
> >> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or good)
> >> place to put the temp probe!!!
> >> Linn
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Eric, there are three sensors in the ducting. Two are called the 'mass
airflow sensor' and one separate one (OAT) for air temperature. The
mass airflow sensors are made up of one heated sensor and one unheated.
>From their construction, I'd say the mass airflow sensors are far more
sensitive than the separate temperature sensor ..... which from my tests
only go the the air conditioning system and the OAT display there.
Engine operation wasn't affected by the unplugging of the OAT sensor (my
term), but unplugging the MAF really makes it run crappy! :-P
FWIW, the car had a stalling problem when it came up to a stop sign.
Yup, I know ... I hate them too :-D . Mileage was also suffering. The
problem was soot that had collected on the MAF sensors. I brushed them
off (carefully) and all is well in the world again.
Linn
do not archive
Eric Ekberg wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Not often I can chime in with potentially helpful info, so I'm taking
> the opportunity. The temp sensor for a car engine and your aircraft
> serve two different purposes. The temp sensor for the car is for the
> purpose of the engine computer to calculate the mass of air entering
> the engine. In that case the car cares about what is actually going
> in the engine and less about the air outside of the car. The pupose
> of the aircraft OAT (outisde air temp) is to determine the temperature
> of the air mass you are moving through, not necessarily the
> temperature of the air entering the engine.
> Eric. do not archive
>
>
> On 6/19/07, linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
> <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>> wrote:
>
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
>
> Thanks Tim. I had occasion to work on my wifes Lincoln Towncar (I
> hate
> paying someone to do what I can still do) and was searching for
> the mass
> airflow sensor. I found it, and I also found the OAT
> sensor. Both are
> located close to each other in the incoming air ducting for the
> engine.
> I'm not sure that the air intake for our engines wouldn't be a bad
> place
> for a temp sensor, but I have a lot of time to do some
> research. On the
> Lincold the ducting sits near the hood, kinda beside the engine
> Vs. over
> it, and after sitting and getting heat soaked ...... the sensor reads
> the same before and after starting the engine. Kinda flies in the
> face
> of reason, but the temp readout in the panel just doesn't change! Go
> figure!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
> >
> > Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
> > ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
> > that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
> > such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
> > wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
> > becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
> > you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
> > wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
> > it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
> > The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
> > for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
> > diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
> > near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
> > you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
> > as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
> >
> > My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
> > Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
> > panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
> > completely remove the inspection panel.
> >
> > There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
> > locations than good ones.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > linn Walters wrote:
> >
> >> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
> >>
> >> Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
> >>>
> >>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
> >>
> >>
> >> snip!
> >>
> >> Short? :-)
> >>
> >> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or
> good)
> >> place to put the temp probe!!!
>
>
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
And, to add to Eric's, being off by 1 degree in a cloud can mean ice, or
no ice, so it's kind of something that you'd like to have very accurate.
If you weren't flying IFR, then you really don't need any OAT probe
at all...but if you're flying IFR, you'd not only want one, but one
that will warn you of impending icing conditions before you
see it build on the wings.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Eric Ekberg wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Not often I can chime in with potentially helpful info, so I'm taking
> the opportunity. The temp sensor for a car engine and your aircraft
> serve two different purposes. The temp sensor for the car is for the
> purpose of the engine computer to calculate the mass of air entering the
> engine. In that case the car cares about what is actually going in the
> engine and less about the air outside of the car. The pupose of the
> aircraft OAT (outisde air temp) is to determine the temperature of the
> air mass you are moving through, not necessarily the temperature of the
> air entering the engine.
> Eric. do not archive
>
>
> On 6/19/07, *linn Walters* <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
> <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>> wrote:
>
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
>
> Thanks Tim. I had occasion to work on my wifes Lincoln Towncar (I hate
> paying someone to do what I can still do) and was searching for the mass
> airflow sensor. I found it, and I also found the OAT sensor. Both are
> located close to each other in the incoming air ducting for the engine.
> I'm not sure that the air intake for our engines wouldn't be a bad place
> for a temp sensor, but I have a lot of time to do some research. On
> the
> Lincold the ducting sits near the hood, kinda beside the engine Vs. over
> it, and after sitting and getting heat soaked ...... the sensor reads
> the same before and after starting the engine. Kinda flies in the face
> of reason, but the temp readout in the panel just doesn't change! Go
> figure!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
> >
> > Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
> > ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
> > that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
> > such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
> > wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
> > becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
> > you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
> > wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
> > it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
> > The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
> > for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
> > diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
> > near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
> > you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
> > as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
> >
> > My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
> > Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
> > panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
> > completely remove the inspection panel.
> >
> > There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
> > locations than good ones.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > linn Walters wrote:
> >
> >> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
> >>
> >> Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
> >>>
> >>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
> >>
> >>
> >> snip!
> >>
> >> Short? :-)
> >>
> >> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or
> good)
> >> place to put the temp probe!!!
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle |
Thanks for your reply about the door handles. The one thing that I like about
these handles are the clean/flush exterior and the ability to get an extra keyed
lock ($16) for the baggage door. Their full-sized drawings turned out not to
be, but the dimensions were all that was needed to get a good layout.
An over-center spring mechanism on the assembly shouldn't be too hard to add and
would no doubt improve the overall design.
I'm contemplating connecting the aft (long) rod to the inner-most (outside) tang
of the rear handle assembly rather than to the through bolt (screw). This should
keep it behind the existing inner door panel. This can't be done with the
forward rod so an offset bend after the locking tumbler seems to be one option
or just adding a slight raised area to the length of the forward section of
the inner door panel is the other option.
Because of the changing angles of the push rods, unlike the original straight design,
I plan on adding a rod-end hinge point just inside of the rod exit points
at the ends of the doors.
Any suggestions, one way or the other, from your experiences? I would love to
see any pictures that you may have, as I'm sure that they will help, especially
with the handle design.
Nick
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119479#119479
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle |
Oh yeah, don't follow the full size drawing, redraw it using their dimensions.
I was smart enough to make a cardboard cutout from their drawing and the assembly
did not fit in it, when I drew it out based on the dimensions it fit like
a glove.
Rick S.
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
Good point. I, for one, can't see the value in paying big bucks for a
state-of-the-art electronics package ..... and not have it tell ya the
truth. In our hobby, what you don't know CAN hurt you! The only reason
to add the car to the mix was to show a commonality (the intake) and
bring up the possibility that the intake ducting on our engines might be
a possible place for an OAT sensor. It sure gets enough air flow!!!
Linn ..... just thinking out loud
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> And, to add to Eric's, being off by 1 degree in a cloud can mean ice, or
> no ice, so it's kind of something that you'd like to have very accurate.
> If you weren't flying IFR, then you really don't need any OAT probe
> at all...but if you're flying IFR, you'd not only want one, but one
> that will warn you of impending icing conditions before you
> see it build on the wings.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Eric Ekberg wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Not often I can chime in with potentially helpful info, so I'm taking
>> the opportunity. The temp sensor for a car engine and your aircraft
>> serve two different purposes. The temp sensor for the car is for the
>> purpose of the engine computer to calculate the mass of air entering
>> the engine. In that case the car cares about what is actually going
>> in the engine and less about the air outside of the car. The pupose
>> of the aircraft OAT (outisde air temp) is to determine the
>> temperature of the air mass you are moving through, not necessarily
>> the temperature of the air entering the engine.
>> Eric. do not archive
>>
>>
>> On 6/19/07, *linn Walters* <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
>> <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>> wrote:
>>
>> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
>>
>> Thanks Tim. I had occasion to work on my wifes Lincoln Towncar
>> (I hate
>> paying someone to do what I can still do) and was searching for
>> the mass
>> airflow sensor. I found it, and I also found the OAT sensor.
>> Both are
>> located close to each other in the incoming air ducting for the
>> engine.
>> I'm not sure that the air intake for our engines wouldn't be a
>> bad place
>> for a temp sensor, but I have a lot of time to do some research. On
>> the
>> Lincold the ducting sits near the hood, kinda beside the engine
>> Vs. over
>> it, and after sitting and getting heat soaked ...... the sensor
>> reads
>> the same before and after starting the engine. Kinda flies in
>> the face
>> of reason, but the temp readout in the panel just doesn't
>> change! Go
>> figure!
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>> >
>> > Sorry, I didn't add that part because I don't think there is any
>> > ONE good place to put it. But, if you eliminate all of the areas
>> > that could be affected by propwash, engine heat, exhaust and
>> > such, you're basically talking about being 3-4' out from the
>> > wing roots at a minimum, and the by the selection process it
>> > becomes much easier. Then eliminate the TOP of the wings, and
>> > you're down to locating it somewhere on the underside of your
>> > wings, with about 2/3 of your wing length to play with. Putting
>> > it by or in an inspection cover is a handy step for the future.
>> > The innermost inspection cover might be just a little inboard
>> > for the best results...make sure it's outside of your prop
>> > diameter a bit. The real anal people would put it way out
>> > near a wingtip, but once you get out of the affected areas
>> > you're doing great. You want as few external effects on it
>> > as possible, other than just the raw temperature.
>> >
>> > My preference? One of the 2 outbard wing inspection panels.
>> > Mine is actually next to the panel, so I can easily remove the
>> > panel to inspect, but don't have to remove the probe to
>> > completely remove the inspection panel.
>> >
>> > There isn't just one good spot, but there are far more poor
>> > locations than good ones.
>> >
>> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> > do not archive
>> >
>> >
>> > linn Walters wrote:
>> >
>> >> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
>> >>
>> >> Tim Olson wrote:
>> >>
>> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Ok, here's the promised rant that I'll try to keep short.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> snip!
>> >>
>> >> Short? :-)
>> >>
>> >> But, you still haven't told me where you found the 'proper' (or
>> good)
>> >> place to put the temp probe!!!
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Holes for conduit |
Thanks everyone for your ideas. This truly is a great group with tons
of ideas and experience.
Rob
Wings
40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Holes for conduit
Rob Hunter wrote:
I just decided to use conduit in the wings and was wondering if anyone
had an idea on how to make the holes larger with the ribs already
riveted on one of the wings. There isn't much space on the inboard part
of the wing between the ribs to get a unibit and drill in there.
Rob Hunter
40432
Wings
Faced with this situation on other projects, I used a chuck from a drill
that had already been removed and purchased a piece of threaded rod to
fit the chuck. I've had to use more than one piece of threaded rod, and
they have long nuts to attach them together. The nice thing about
Unibits is that they are 'self centering'. For my application, though,
I needed a drilled hole, and the threaded rod was too limber for me to
be able to hit my target. I was reduced to using a piece of PVC pipe
with a plug in the end. I drilled the plug the same size as the
threaded rod, and pushed the threaded rod through the hole and attached
the chuck with the unibit. I could feed the chuck through the holes I
had and the PVC pipe helped center the drill bit where I wanted it.
Now, I'm a little older, and a little wiser. In the tool section of
your local hardware store, you'll find bit extensions in reasonable to
very long lengths. A lot more pricey than threaded rod, they have a
'bushing' with a set screw ...... get ones that fit your Unibit. You
can 'stack' them (like I did with the threaded rod) and the PVC trick
should work as well.
Hope this helps.
Linn
Message 49
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Deliveries from Dynon |
I talked to Dynon about the ad and the 12-week lead times and they said that
they have to have their ads in so far in advance that they actually were
shipping from stock when they sent the ad in, but orders exceeded production
for a while which got them behind. They were hoping to get caught up
"soon", but were still quoting 12 weeks last time I talked to them. You can
get the probes, mounting hardware and wiring ahead of time if you want, just
not the instruments themselves.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cal Hoffman
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Deliveries from Dynon
Is it just me or is anyone else having trouble getting delivery from Dynon?
After reading their ad touting shipping out of inventory, my engine monitor
was to take 81 days to get to Spruce (21 June), which I thought a tad
excessive. It is not here yet!! The individual from Spruce was going to
check, but no longer answers my e-mails.
Cal Hoffman
40119 (final wiring through firewall)
do not archive
Change the world one loan at a time - visit Kiva.org to find out how
Message 50
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Sam! Congratulations! A rush, indeed. Many pictures wanted. Safe skies.
John J
Stranded at Cincinnati airport
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
sam.marlow@adelphia.net
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 3:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: IYBIIWF
If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
Sam Marlow
RV10, #40157
Message 51
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have been really looking hard at the OP system. I spoke with them at
Sun-n-fun and I am pretty impressed with the system. (Of course the vendor
is going to make it look real good.) Has anyone else looked at the op
system compared to the Chelton? If so, what do you think. I like the
integrated idea and it actually seems to offer more than the G900, i.e.
synthetic flight. Comments!
Rick Leach
40397
Message 52
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Not to start the battery wars again but has anyone installed 2 PC680
batteries and put one up front somewhere, ie. Firewall. If so, where does
it fit and how is it on W&B. I know Tim has smaller batteries under his
seat I believe.
Rick Leach
40397
Message 53
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Anyone seen this/bought this. It is a portable GPS/XM Weather/Appraoch
Plates, etc. unit for $1895 + 500 for the XM.
Any pireps?
Jeff Dalton
Wings
Message 54
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I put 2 PC680 batteries just behind the baggage compartment bulkhead. Used 2
of Van't battery mounting boxes. Not much of a flicker on the W&B for me.
Grumpy
do not archive
In a message dated 6/19/2007 8:54:33 PM Central Standard Time,
papadaddyo@tampabay.rr.com writes:
Not to start the battery wars again but has anyone installed 2 PC680
batteries and put one up front somewhere, ie. Firewall. If so, where does it fit
and
how is it on W&B. I know Tim has smaller batteries under his seat I believe.
Rick Leach
40397
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 55
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have two 680's but they are both in the back. Due to the weight factor I suggest
you keep as much controlable weight aft of the CG. Although I have not finished
mine yet, all information to date indicates a the -10 flies better with
more weight aft of the CG. With the CG at the forward limit the aircraft requires
more aft stick to develop a nice flare. Little flight experience but lots
of reading about it. YMMV.
Rick S.
40185
Message 56
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Calibration |
One has to be careful of accuracy and repeatability when it comes to
thermocouple and instrument calibration. What does the company qoute as the
thermocouple type that will be used to take the measurement? Is it a K type
thermocouple which could be off as much as 1.5 degrees C. or other common
types which would be similar in accuracy. How well is the tip standing up
to the elements/corrosion/moisture? This can change the voltage across the
circuit and lead to further error over time. Just because you have it
mounted in the "best" spot doesn't mean you are reading with any better
accuracy than the instrument capability. Is 1.5 deg C going to be good
enough - the capability of your device?
I ask the question to all the EFIS types...what are your probe/transducer
types and there response and accuracy, and are they traced to a calibration
standard and back to NIS??? How often should transducers and temps be
calibrated or does it need calibrating?
Hopefully, your reading 1.5 degree C wrong such that when it is really 0 C
you are reading -1.5 C so as to give you concern. Best to check it in an ice
bath, and boiling water too on occasion, or stick it under your tongue.
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Calibration
>
> And, to add to Eric's, being off by 1 degree in a cloud can mean ice, or
> no ice, so it's kind of something that you'd like to have very accurate.
> If you weren't flying IFR, then you really don't need any OAT probe
> at all...but if you're flying IFR, you'd not only want one, but one
> that will warn you of impending icing conditions before you
> see it build on the wings.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
Message 57
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Rick,
You really need to hook up with Deems Davis, he is our OP pioneer in the group.
go to www.deemsrv10.com
Rick S.
40185
Message 58
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Try this link! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0Qoo7UuxVA
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Sam! Congratulations! A rush, indeed. Many pictures wanted. Safe skies.
>
>
> John J
> Stranded at Cincinnati airport
>
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> sam.marlow@adelphia.net
> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 3:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: IYBIIWF
>
>
> If you build it it will fly, first flight last Thursday, what a rush!
> Sam Marlow
> RV10, #40157
>
>
>
Message 59
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ACS Experimental Door Handle |
Nick, here's a link to some pics that do what your talking about. The
'Bullets' were obtained from Coss.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC03652.html
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
nick@nleonard.com wrote:
> --> RV1
> Because of the changing angles of the push rods, unlike the original straight
design, I plan on adding a rod-end hinge point just inside of the rod exit points
at the ends of the doors.
>
> Any suggestions, one way or the other, from your experiences? I would love to
see any pictures that you may have,
>
>
>
Message 60
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Gary,
You are right on the auto flasher. It requires the greater
load of standard bulbs to heat the bimetal strip on the
mechanical types. Try this link for one source of flashing
leds -
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/340200/Flashing.html
If you can replace your current led you could substitute a
flashing version.
Kevin
40494
----- Original Message Follows -----
><speckter@comcast.net>
>
>I need some help from you electronic minded folks. I want
>to flash the indicator light in my master buss switch when
>I leave it on by mistake. I bought an auto flasher but it
>has 4 unlabled pins I tried to hook it up by looking at it
>but I suspect that the LED in the switch is not drawing
>enough current to trigger it
>
>Has any one designed a flashing circuit? Suggestions
>Gary
>40274
Message 61
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Deliveries from Dynon |
I ordered 3 months ago as they said about 3 months wait and it was
shipped today. I bought direct from Dynon as could not trust spruce due
to problems with last order. Had to ring from Aus twice to get sorted.
No big deal realy just another part of the building process .
So no dramas with Dynon and they answered every email
regards Chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: Cal Hoffman
To: RV 10 List
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Deliveries from Dynon
Is it just me or is anyone else having trouble getting delivery from
Dynon? After reading their ad touting shipping out of inventory, my
engine monitor was to take 81 days to get to Spruce (21 June), which I
thought a tad excessive. It is not here yet!! The individual from
Spruce was going to check, but no longer answers my e-mails.
Cal Hoffman
40119 (final wiring through firewall)
do not archive
Change the world one loan at a time - visit Kiva.org to find out how
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|