RV10-List Digest Archive

Thu 07/05/07


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:11 AM - Re: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
     2. 06:47 AM - Re: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. (Tim Olson)
     3. 07:35 AM - Testing the Static Ports. (LessDragProd@AOL.COM)
     4. 08:58 AM - Test - change of email address (John Jessen)
     5. 12:46 PM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Richard Gurley)
     6. 03:10 PM - Garmin 496 Wiring (Albert Gardner)
     7. 04:10 PM - Re: Garmin 496 Wiring (SteinAir, Inc.)
     8. 04:46 PM - Re: Garmin 496 Wiring (Albert Gardner)
     9. 04:51 PM - Re: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. (John W. Cox)
    10. 07:33 PM - Re: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. (William Curtis)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:11:48 AM PST US
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Subject: More testing with OAT and Static Ports.
    The common theme here is that the static ports must extend out approx .010 in order to clear the boundary layer and give accurate readings. Van's do this from the shear fact that they are a domed pop rivet. A lot of people are concerned, and I believe a few have experienced, that the van's pop rivet doesn't hold the static tubing on with any type of long term positive grip. Other than that thousands are flying with the pop rivet. With the -10 many people just didn't like the idea of a cheesy pop rivet static port and just as many are planning on using the -10 for IFR so it would seem prudent to use something better like the Cleaveland or SafeAir. Back when I made my decision there was a lot of conjecture on why people would see various errors and I discussed this briefly with SafeAir and went with their package anyway knowing I might have to replace the ports (I mainly was interested in the tubing and connectors). It was acknowledged back then that there was a potential for problems but most people didn't seem to care that they might have an error as they fly for fun. So we now know, with some hard data, that you probably need at least a .010 protuberance for accurate readings. I would be interested to know if .015 would clear up that additional 1-2 knot discrepancy. If your ports are flush you will probably have an error. If you use Van's pop rivet method or anything else that sticks out a bit you will probably be ok. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Limbo. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 11:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. Good question, I installed the Safe Air ports. I second. Any known errors? Dave Leikam 40496 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 6:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. > <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> > > Does anyone know if the ports from SafeAir have the same errors that the > Cleveland flat ports have? > > John Testement > jwt@roadmapscoaching.com > 40321 > Richmond, VA > Paint prep and interior > do not archive > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder > Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:15 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. > > > I know Mike follows this list...he can probably answer. > > BTW Mike...can you have a supply of the new static ports on hand at > OSH'08? > > Brian > #40308 > Nashville, TN > > Bob Leffler wrote: >> --> <rvmail@thelefflers.com> >> >> It doesn't appear that Cleaveland has updated their web site. What's >> the new part number? I'm assuming they are the same price as the old > ones? >> >> Has anyone measured the ones from Rivethead-Aero yet? Do they exhibit >> similar issues? >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray >> R [NTK] >> Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 9:48 AM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. >> >> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com> >> >> Over the weekend I changed out my flat faced static ports from >> Cleveland Tools to there new dome faced ones. When I called them >> about the error (TAS was 5 - 6 knots low on my Dynon versus 4-way GPS >> TAS) I was having with the original flat faced ones, they sent me the >> new dome faced ones at no charge (awesome folks at Cleveland). I also >> mounted another OAT in my left wing on the wing spar flange right in >> front of the middle inspection plate, which was connected to a General >> Purpose input on my Dynon Engine Monitor. My other OAT is mounted in >> the aft half moon bulkhead under the emp fairing, which is connected >> to the compass module for the Dynon EFIS. >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > 10:02 AM > > > 10:02 AM > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:47:14 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: More testing with OAT and Static Ports.
    I'd agree with everything Michael just said. It really is just sticking the port out a bit that fixes things. I had my old Cleveland flat ports in, and cut flat washers to tape over the area and that did the job too as a test...just getting the ports to stick out a bit. The pop-rivet will do that, and there's probably many more ways, but as Michael also said, you want something really good for IFR flight that securely holds the tubing on, so the pop rivet doesn't cut it from a mechanical perspective, even if it worked perfectly from an accuracy perspective. Also, I know, cleveland said that the primer is the cause of the flat ports not working right. While that may add to the poor function of the flat ports, IMHO, if the primer is enough to wreck it's function, then they weren't NEARLY stuck out enough to begin with. Even the domed ones don't stick out that far, and if I were building my own, I'd probably want to at least test them being another .020-.030 stuck out than the domed ones are. It would be interesting if the additional ~2kt error would then go away. So I don't think the location is much at fault at all, but it's absolutely apparent that the static port must stick out from the skin. If the SafeAir ports do that, then you should be fine. If not...don't expect much. Also, if you don't paint the ports, the skin's thickness will detract from how far the port sticks out, so apparently you are supposed to paint the ports with the skins. Again though, I think the ports should just be cut thick enough that they can go on unpainted and still work. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > <rvbuilder@sausen.net> > > The common theme here is that the static ports must extend out approx > .010 in order to clear the boundary layer and give accurate readings. > Van's do this from the shear fact that they are a domed pop rivet. A > lot of people are concerned, and I believe a few have experienced, > that the van's pop rivet doesn't hold the static tubing on with any > type of long term positive grip. Other than that thousands are > flying with the pop rivet. > > With the -10 many people just didn't like the idea of a cheesy pop > rivet static port and just as many are planning on using the -10 for > IFR so it would seem prudent to use something better like the > Cleaveland or SafeAir. Back when I made my decision there was a lot > of conjecture on why people would see various errors and I discussed > this briefly with SafeAir and went with their package anyway knowing > I might have to replace the ports (I mainly was interested in the > tubing and connectors). It was acknowledged back then that there was > a potential for problems but most people didn't seem to care that > they might have an error as they fly for fun. > > So we now know, with some hard data, that you probably need at least > a .010 protuberance for accurate readings. I would be interested to > know if .015 would clear up that additional 1-2 knot discrepancy. If > your ports are flush you will probably have an error. If you use > Van's pop rivet method or anything else that sticks out a bit you > will probably be ok. > > Michael Sausen -10 #352 Limbo. > > -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave > Leikam Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 11:34 PM To: > rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: More testing with OAT > and Static Ports. > > > > Good question, I installed the Safe Air ports. I second. Any known > errors? > > Dave Leikam 40496 > > do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Testement" > <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> Sent: > Wednesday, July 04, 2007 6:27 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: More testing > with OAT and Static Ports. > > >> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> >> >> Does anyone know if the ports from SafeAir have the same errors >> that the Cleveland flat ports have? >> >> John Testement jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Paint >> prep and interior do not archive >> >> >> -----Original Message----- From: >> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> rv10builder Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 6:15 PM To: >> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: More testing with >> OAT and Static Ports. >> >> <rv10builder@bellsouth.net> >> >> I know Mike follows this list...he can probably answer. >> >> BTW Mike...can you have a supply of the new static ports on hand at >> OSH'08? >> >> Brian #40308 Nashville, TN >> >> Bob Leffler wrote: >>> <rvmail@thelefflers.com> >>> >>> It doesn't appear that Cleaveland has updated their web site. >>> What's the new part number? I'm assuming they are the same price >>> as the old >> ones? >>> Has anyone measured the ones from Rivethead-Aero yet? Do they >>> exhibit similar issues? >>> >>> -----Original Message----- From: >>> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, >>> Ray R [NTK] Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 9:48 AM To: >>> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: More testing with OAT >>> and Static Ports. >>> >>> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com> >>> >>> Over the weekend I changed out my flat faced static ports from >>> Cleveland Tools to there new dome faced ones. When I called them >>> about the error (TAS was 5 - 6 knots low on my Dynon versus >>> 4-way GPS TAS) I was having with the original flat faced ones, >>> they sent me the new dome faced ones at no charge (awesome folks >>> at Cleveland). I also mounted another OAT in my left wing on the >>> wing spar flange right in front of the middle inspection plate, >>> which was connected to a General Purpose input on my Dynon Engine >>> Monitor. My other OAT is mounted in the aft half moon bulkhead >>> under the emp fairing, which is connected to the compass module >>> for the Dynon EFIS. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> 10:02 AM >> >> >> 10:02 AM >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:35:11 AM PST US
    From: LessDragProd@AOL.COM
    Subject: Testing the Static Ports.
    Hi All, This test method was given to me from Dean Hall in testing he had done on his RV-4. Rational for the test method. The altimeter is only connected to the static port. On the sectional, locate a given height for a mountain peak, or whatever, near your airport. Set your altimeter station pressure to the reported station pressure. Verify that the altimeter reading and the actual field elevation are correct. Go up and fly past the mountain peak, or whatever, at cruise speed and report your altimeter reading. Dean Hall had installed a Piper style pitot/static tube on his RV-4, and the first flight past the mountain peak he found that his altimeter was off by 800 feet. Regards, Jim Ayers ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:58:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Test - change of email address
    From: John Jessen <n212pj@gmail.com>
    Just a test. Email address has changed from jjessen@rcn.com to N212PJ@gmail.com John Jessen 40328 do not archive


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:46:11 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Gurley" <rngurley@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
    Dave - If I could ask, how did you attach your servo to the plate - with what type of harware? Dick Gurley -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert@aol.com Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 8:51 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim Bob, Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it. For the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be aware that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you should have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the servo arm being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he put his plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at an angle so the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would be parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed the access plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way works. I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may have a hick up, but I think it will work. Dave Syvertson 40625


    Message 6


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    Time: 03:10:12 PM PST US
    From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: Garmin 496 Wiring
    Has anyone wired up their 496 and solved these problem I have encountered? I am installing my 496 using the Air-Gizmos adaptor and Garmin's Power/Data cable. I want to connect the 496 to my Tru-Trak autopilot, the Dynon 180 EFIS, and the PMA8000 audio panel. The Garmin cable has 9 wires while the manual indicates only 7 (page 158). The manual says the yellow and blue wires are "Data in and out" but the tag on the cable labels these as "Port 1 in and out". In addition, the cable has 2 wires not mentioned in the manual, a green and violet pair labeled "Port 2 in and out". Questions: 1. What signal will be present on the Voice output? I want the XM radio signal to go to the audio panel, is this the right output to wire into an entertainment input? Do any of the alarm outputs appear here? 2. The PMA8000 has 4 unswitched audio inputs available. I wired the Dynon EFIS and EMS alarms into #1. I plan on wiring the Garmin alarm output into #2. I am assuming that XM music will not be present on this 496 output. 3. Would you wire the Dynon EFIS and EMS alarms together and into a single audio input (like Dynon suggests) or split them and wire into different audio inputs, IE, #1 (EFIS) and #2 (EMS) with the Garmin going into #3? 4. What is the difference between the 496 output labeled Port 1 and Port 2? I can find no mention of ports in the manual. Is there different information on them? In the setup screens on the 496 I don't see any mention of Ports. I am assuming I should wire the Port 1 in and out to the autopilot but the Dynon EFIS needs that input also. Do I send it to both or should Port 1 go to one and Port 2 to the other? 5. Apparently the 496 can tune the SL-30 Nav/Comm. If I choose to do this, the SL-30 need a data output from the 496. How is this done? 6. There is an audio mini-jack on the back of the 496 in addition to the wire in the wire in the cable assembly. If I wire the Alarm output into a audio panel audio input and the Voice output into an entertainment input have I separated the two signals so that the pilot gets the alarms and the passengers get only the XM radio signal? I assume then that this jack is only used when I remove the 496 from the plane. Albert (lost in space) Gardner Yuma, AZ


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:10:40 PM PST US
    From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein@steinair.com>
    Subject: Garmin 496 Wiring
    Hi Albert, I'll take these in order the best I know how. 1) The voice output is useless (in my opinion, so don't hook it up)...even the alarm output is marginally usefull - but that's just my personal opinion. 2) Run the XM output from the 496 (use a stereo jack in the music output port from the GPS - not part of the power/data cable) into an "entertainment input" for the PMA. 3) Put the Dynon's together as they suggest. 4) Leave port 2 alone for now. Just split the port 1 wire to the various components. 5) When you set the serial port 1, you choose "Aviation In/NMEA & VHF OUT". 6) You'll need that jack to send the music to the audio panel. In the PMA8000, the Entertainment 1 is for front seaters and/or passengers and Ent#2 is for passengers only. You can decide how to configure them by pressing certain buttons on the panel - which will dictate who can hear what when! Basically we suggest wiring the XM to to ENT #1 unless you're using it for something else. We normally install the ENT#2 jack for the rear seaters in case they bring along their own IPOD or DVD player or such. Hope that helps! Cheers, Stein. >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner >Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 5:13 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 496 Wiring > > > >Has anyone wired up their 496 and solved these problem I have >encountered? I >am installing my 496 using the Air-Gizmos adaptor and Garmin's Power/Data >cable. I want to connect the 496 to my Tru-Trak autopilot, the Dynon 180 >EFIS, and the PMA8000 audio panel. The Garmin cable has 9 wires while the >manual indicates only 7 (page 158). The manual says the yellow and blue >wires are "Data in and out" but the tag on the cable labels these >as "Port 1 >in and out". In addition, the cable has 2 wires not mentioned in >the manual, >a green and violet pair labeled "Port 2 in and out". > >Questions: >1. What signal will be present on the Voice output? I want the XM radio >signal to go to the audio panel, is this the right output to wire into an >entertainment input? Do any of the alarm outputs appear here? > >2. The PMA8000 has 4 unswitched audio inputs available. I wired the Dynon >EFIS and EMS alarms into #1. I plan on wiring the Garmin alarm output into >#2. I am assuming that XM music will not be present on this 496 output. > >3. Would you wire the Dynon EFIS and EMS alarms together and into a single >audio input (like Dynon suggests) or split them and wire into different >audio inputs, IE, #1 (EFIS) and #2 (EMS) with the Garmin going into #3? > >4. What is the difference between the 496 output labeled Port 1 and Port 2? >I can find no mention of ports in the manual. Is there different >information >on them? In the setup screens on the 496 I don't see any mention >of Ports. I >am assuming I should wire the Port 1 in and out to the autopilot but the >Dynon EFIS needs that input also. Do I send it to both or should Port 1 go >to one and Port 2 to the other? > >5. Apparently the 496 can tune the SL-30 Nav/Comm. If I choose to do this, >the SL-30 need a data output from the 496. How is this done? > >6. There is an audio mini-jack on the back of the 496 in addition to the >wire in the wire in the cable assembly. If I wire the Alarm output into a >audio panel audio input and the Voice output into an entertainment input >have I separated the two signals so that the pilot gets the alarms and the >passengers get only the XM radio signal? I assume then that this jack is >only used when I remove the 496 from the plane. > >Albert (lost in space) Gardner >Yuma, AZ > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 04:46:37 PM PST US
    From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: Garmin 496 Wiring
    Hey Stein, I would have called you but I thought you were all on vacation this week. Thanks for the info, it was mucho needed. BTW, I think the air-Gizmo bracket is going to work fine, it really makes a nice setup just below the PMA8000 and above the SL-30 and 40. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:51:28 PM PST US
    Subject: More testing with OAT and Static Ports.
    From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Before Dr. Carl Cadwell built the first Epic LT Kitbuilt Single Engine Turbo-prop, he finished a beautiful Lancair (N25CL) that used the boundary layer disrupter in the attached picture. This might help clarify why the pickup port should Not be flush with the skin. Notice the accent color pinstripe on the lower red to bring out the clarity. One Shot - lettering paint was used. Just a Trivia Note: It was the completion of Dr. Cadwell's Epic that caused Comp Air of Florida to whine about the competition and trigger the secret 51% Committee Meetings. Has anyone seen any progress from the private committee? I will wager Mass Produced Kit Build is here to stay with non American QB labor. John Cox - KUAO #600 PS - I hear that the RV-12 with a new wing is ready for "Prime Time" OSH '07 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 6:47 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. I'd agree with everything Michael just said. It really is just sticking the port out a bit that fixes things. Even the domed ones don't stick out that far, and if I were building my own, I'd probably want to at least test them being another .020-.030 stuck out than the domed ones are. It would be interesting if the additional ~2kt error would then go away. So I don't think the location is much at fault at all, but it's absolutely apparent that the static port must stick out from the skin. If the SafeAir ports do that, then you should be fine. If not...don't expect much. Also, if you don't paint the ports, the skin's thickness will detract from how far the port sticks out, so apparently you are supposed to paint the ports with the skins. Again though, I think the ports should just be cut thick enough that they can go on unpainted and still work. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:33:36 PM PST US
    Subject: More testing with OAT and Static Ports.
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    I don't know about boundary layer disruptor but these are stock S-Tec (Meggit) static ports used on their autopilots. I know this cause I have two of these on the tailcone sides of my Cardinal feeding the S-Tec 30 altitude hold. Ironically, the stock static ports on the Cardinal are flush and forward of the cabin door. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com> > > Before Dr. Carl Cadwell built the first Epic LT Kitbuilt Single Engine > Turbo-prop, he finished a beautiful Lancair (N25CL) that used the > boundary layer disrupter in the attached picture. This might help > clarify why the pickup port should Not be flush with the skin. Notice > the accent color pinstripe on the lower red to bring out the clarity. > One Shot - lettering paint was used. > > Just a Trivia Note: It was the completion of Dr. Cadwell's Epic that > caused Comp Air of Florida to whine about the competition and trigger > the secret 51% Committee Meetings. Has anyone seen any progress from > the private committee? I will wager Mass Produced Kit Build is here to > stay with non American QB labor. > > John Cox - KUAO > #600 > > PS - I hear that the RV-12 with a new wing is ready for "Prime Time" OSH > '07 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 6:47 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: More testing with OAT and Static Ports. > > > I'd agree with everything Michael just said. It really is just > sticking the port out a bit that fixes things. Even the domed ones > don't stick out that far, and if I were building my own, I'd probably > want to at > least test them being another .020-.030 stuck out than > the domed ones are. It would be interesting if the additional > ~2kt error would then go away. > > So I don't think the location is much at fault at all, but it's > absolutely apparent that the static port must stick out from the > skin. If the SafeAir ports do that, then you should be fine. > If not...don't expect much. > > Also, if you don't paint the ports, the skin's thickness will > detract from how far the port sticks out, so apparently you > are supposed to paint the ports with the skins. Again though, > I think the ports should just be cut thick enough that they > can go on unpainted and still work. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > do not archive




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