Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - Re: Fuse penetrations at wing root (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
2. 06:56 AM - Re: Fuse penetrations at wing root (John Testement)
3. 07:38 AM - Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question (Dave Lammers)
4. 08:05 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question (Rob Kermanj)
5. 08:08 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question (Tom Deutsch)
6. 10:02 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question (Dave Lammers)
7. 10:08 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question (linn Walters)
8. 10:36 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question (linn Walters)
9. 10:52 AM - Gretz LED indicator dimensions (Deems Davis)
10. 11:15 AM - Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions (gary)
11. 11:57 AM - Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions (Deems Davis)
12. 12:29 PM - Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions (gary)
13. 01:01 PM - Re: Fuse penetrations at wing root (Dan Masys)
14. 01:46 PM - Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions (Deems Davis)
15. 02:29 PM - Re: Dynon OAT Probe (Albert Gardner)
16. 02:54 PM - Re: prop governor changes (William Curtis)
17. 03:19 PM - Re: prop governor changes (Deems Davis)
18. 03:24 PM - Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions (gary)
19. 03:35 PM - Gretz LED indicator Dimming (Indran Chelvanayagam)
20. 07:19 PM - Re: Dynon OAT Probe (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuse penetrations at wing root |
That is exactly like I did. About 4 - 6 inches behind the
spare I have a hole drilled for a 14 pin CPC connector for general
wires, then I have a 4 pin CPC for the Strobe Wire (Ensure to connect
the shield to one of the pins) and then I have the bulkhead BNC for my
NAV/GS Antenna. My Marker Beacon Ant is in the Tail cone.
Here is how I pinned out my CPC 14 connectors in each wing.
Pin Left Wing Disconnect Right Wing Disconnect
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------
1 Taxi Light Power Landing Light Power
2 Nav Light Power Nav Light Power
3 Pitot Heat Power N/C
4 N/C N/C
5 N/C N/C
6 N/C N/C
7 N/C N/C
8 N/C Autopilot Roll
Servo - DB9 Pin 9 - Gnd
9 N/C Autopilot Roll
Servo - DB9 Pin 1 - Power
10 Ailron Trim Motor Autopilot Roll Servo
- DB9 Pin 2
11 Ailron Trim Motor Autopilot Roll Servo
- DB9 Pin 3
12 Ailron Trim Blue Wire Autopilot Roll Servo -
DB9 Pin 4
13 Ailron Trim Orange Wire Autopilot Roll Servo -
DB9 Pin 5
14 Ailron Trim Green Wire Autopilot Roll Servo -
DB9 Pin 6
Now I have moved my OAT to the Left Wing so I will need two
more of the ones that are now N/C (No Connection) and use them for the
OAT Probe. This is the main reason I used the CPC-14 connector was to
have extra pins for future growth.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (272 on the Hobbs)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 8:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse penetrations at wing root
Hi all,
I'm about to finalise my wiring between the wings and panel. I have
opted for qick disconnects at the wing root and plan separate molex
connectors for the DC wiring and strobes, BNC bulkhead connectors for
the Nav and MB antennas and bulkhead connector for the pitot. The plans
suggest that a single hole be enlarged to accommodate the wiring to the
wing. Before I make swiss cheese of the fuse (ie 5 holes per side),
would appreciate feedback on what others have done and whether Vans has
limitations on the number, size and location of these holes.
cheers,
Ron
first power to the panel and smoke stayed in the wire!!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuse penetrations at wing root |
Ron,
I put my CPC connectors on the wing inboard ribs - inserted a plate in the
lightening hole. I did not put any connectors on the fuse side. I used a
separate Molex for the strobe and located it well behind the other wires.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 9:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse penetrations at wing root
Hi all,
I'm about to finalise my wiring between the wings and panel. I have opted
for qick disconnects at the wing root and plan separate molex connectors for
the DC wiring and strobes, BNC bulkhead connectors for the Nav and MB
antennas and bulkhead connector for the pitot. The plans suggest that a
single hole be enlarged to accommodate the wiring to the wing. Before I
make swiss cheese of the fuse (ie 5 holes per side), would appreciate
feedback on what others have done and whether Vans has limitations on the
number, size and location of these holes.
cheers,
Ron
first power to the panel and smoke stayed in the wire!!
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
3:26 PM
6:32 PM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question |
This question is for those who are already flying.
Have any of you experienced the RV shimmy in the main landing gear
typical of that experienced in the RV6 series? This is an occasional
shimmy (once every couple dozen landings) which occurs on landing
rollout and is induced by rolling over an irregular surface deformation
on landing rollout and generally can be stopped only by bringing the
aircraft to a full stop. I've seen in in 3 of the several RV6's I've
been involved with. Van changed the RV6 plans to add a damping piece of
wood fiberglassed to the aft surface of the gear leg, which is now the
standard configuration on the -6.
Second question: Has anyone added this to the RV10 gear legs? If so,
why? Out of experienced shimmy, or out of precaution due to experience
in other Van's tubular steel main landing gear aircraft?
My guess is that the larger diameter and mass of the RV10 gear leg has
changed the natural harmonic frequency of the leg so that this is not an
issue and the dampener is not required. However, I thought I'd poll
those of you flying, because I am at the point where adding this would
be an easy thing to do.
Thanks.
Dave Lammers
finishing
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question |
I have experienced shimmy in mine (160 hrs) and have had to tighten
the large fork nut couple of times to prevent it. I suspect that the
shimmy might be due to wear at the washers. It seems that I need to
have a slight drag on the fork to eliminate shimmy. Also, holding
the stick in your lap on roll-out seems to help.
Not familiar with the fix on the -6 gear, however a picture or a part
number from Van would be nice.
Thanks,
Rob.
On Jul 9, 2007, at 10:36 AM, Dave Lammers wrote:
>
> This question is for those who are already flying.
>
> Have any of you experienced the RV shimmy in the main landing gear
> typical of that experienced in the RV6 series? This is an
> occasional shimmy (once every couple dozen landings) which occurs
> on landing rollout and is induced by rolling over an irregular
> surface deformation on landing rollout and generally can be stopped
> only by bringing the aircraft to a full stop. I've seen in in 3 of
> the several RV6's I've been involved with. Van changed the RV6
> plans to add a damping piece of wood fiberglassed to the aft
> surface of the gear leg, which is now the standard configuration on
> the -6.
>
> Second question: Has anyone added this to the RV10 gear legs? If
> so, why? Out of experienced shimmy, or out of precaution due to
> experience in other Van's tubular steel main landing gear aircraft?
>
> My guess is that the larger diameter and mass of the RV10 gear leg
> has changed the natural harmonic frequency of the leg so that this
> is not an issue and the dampener is not required. However, I
> thought I'd poll those of you flying, because I am at the point
> where adding this would be an easy thing to do.
>
> Thanks.
> Dave Lammers
> finishing
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question |
Dave, had issue on my 7 so know what you are talking about. 100 hours
and no issue at all on my 10 and I did nothing.
Tom Deutsch
Vice President
RHW Development and Construction Services
Office 913 451-1222
Fax 913 451-6493
Cell 913 908-7752
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Lammers
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 9:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question
This question is for those who are already flying.
Have any of you experienced the RV shimmy in the main landing gear
typical of that experienced in the RV6 series? This is an occasional
shimmy (once every couple dozen landings) which occurs on landing
rollout and is induced by rolling over an irregular surface deformation
on landing rollout and generally can be stopped only by bringing the
aircraft to a full stop. I've seen in in 3 of the several RV6's I've
been involved with. Van changed the RV6 plans to add a damping piece of
wood fiberglassed to the aft surface of the gear leg, which is now the
standard configuration on the -6.
Second question: Has anyone added this to the RV10 gear legs? If so,
why? Out of experienced shimmy, or out of precaution due to experience
in other Van's tubular steel main landing gear aircraft?
My guess is that the larger diameter and mass of the RV10 gear leg has
changed the natural harmonic frequency of the leg so that this is not an
issue and the dampener is not required. However, I thought I'd poll
those of you flying, because I am at the point where adding this would
be an easy thing to do.
Thanks.
Dave Lammers
finishing
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question |
Rob,
Thanks for your reply. However, my question only dealt with the main
landing gear (not the nose gear). The -6 fix would most likely not help
a shimmy that is due to an issue with the wheel, its mounting and axis
of rotation, as I think most nose gear shimmies are, but thanks for the
reply anyway.
Dave Lammers
finishing
Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> I have experienced shimmy in mine (160 hrs) and have had to tighten
> the large fork nut couple of times to prevent it. I suspect that the
> shimmy might be due to wear at the washers. It seems that I need to
> have a slight drag on the fork to eliminate shimmy. Also, holding
> the stick in your lap on roll-out seems to help.
>
> Not familiar with the fix on the -6 gear, however a picture or a part
> number from Van would be nice.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob.
>
> On Jul 9, 2007, at 10:36 AM, Dave Lammers wrote:
>
>>
>> This question is for those who are already flying.
>>
>> Have any of you experienced the RV shimmy in the main landing gear
>> typical of that experienced in the RV6 series? This is an
>> occasional shimmy (once every couple dozen landings) which occurs on
>> landing rollout and is induced by rolling over an irregular surface
>> deformation on landing rollout and generally can be stopped only by
>> bringing the aircraft to a full stop. I've seen in in 3 of the
>> several RV6's I've been involved with. Van changed the RV6 plans to
>> add a damping piece of wood fiberglassed to the aft surface of the
>> gear leg, which is now the standard configuration on the -6.
>>
>> Second question: Has anyone added this to the RV10 gear legs? If
>> so, why? Out of experienced shimmy, or out of precaution due to
>> experience in other Van's tubular steel main landing gear aircraft?
>>
>> My guess is that the larger diameter and mass of the RV10 gear leg
>> has changed the natural harmonic frequency of the leg so that this
>> is not an issue and the dampener is not required. However, I
>> thought I'd poll those of you flying, because I am at the point
>> where adding this would be an easy thing to do.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Dave Lammers
>> finishing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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> mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it:
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question |
I don't really know what the configuration of the Vans nosewheel is, but
the Grummans have been living with nosewheel shimmy from day one. There
are belleville (cupped) washers stacked to give some drag to the
nosewheel to prevent shimmy. The nut is tight enough when it takes a 25
Lb pull at the wheel axle to move the nosewheel sideways. It may work
on the -10 too.
Linn
do not archive
Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> I have experienced shimmy in mine (160 hrs) and have had to tighten
> the large fork nut couple of times to prevent it. I suspect that the
> shimmy might be due to wear at the washers. It seems that I need to
> have a slight drag on the fork to eliminate shimmy. Also, holding
> the stick in your lap on roll-out seems to help.
>
> Not familiar with the fix on the -6 gear, however a picture or a part
> number from Van would be nice.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob.
>
> On Jul 9, 2007, at 10:36 AM, Dave Lammers wrote:
>
>>
>> This question is for those who are already flying.
>>
>> Have any of you experienced the RV shimmy in the main landing gear
>> typical of that experienced in the RV6 series? This is an
>> occasional shimmy (once every couple dozen landings) which occurs on
>> landing rollout and is induced by rolling over an irregular surface
>> deformation on landing rollout and generally can be stopped only by
>> bringing the aircraft to a full stop. I've seen in in 3 of the
>> several RV6's I've been involved with. Van changed the RV6 plans to
>> add a damping piece of wood fiberglassed to the aft surface of the
>> gear leg, which is now the standard configuration on the -6.
>>
>> Second question: Has anyone added this to the RV10 gear legs? If
>> so, why? Out of experienced shimmy, or out of precaution due to
>> experience in other Van's tubular steel main landing gear aircraft?
>>
>> My guess is that the larger diameter and mass of the RV10 gear leg
>> has changed the natural harmonic frequency of the leg so that this
>> is not an issue and the dampener is not required. However, I
>> thought I'd poll those of you flying, because I am at the point
>> where adding this would be an easy thing to do.
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Dave Lammers
>> finishing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Main Landing Gear Shimmy Question |
I'm glad I'm not the only one that read Dave Lammers email too quickly!
;-)
Sorry. I picked up on the 'shimmy' part. The one thing I hate about the
tubular gear is the 'walking' the gear does fore and aft. Looking at it
waving back just gives me the willies. So much so that I've given some
thought to a spring aluminum gear. I keep running into obstacles
(weight and positioning) that point to making the switch almost
impossible. I'm almost resigned to 'live with it' like all the other
thousands of RV owners seem to be doing. Has anyone else done any
thinking on making a switch???
Linn
linn Walters wrote:
>
> I don't really know what the configuration of the Vans nosewheel is,
> but the Grummans have been living with nosewheel shimmy from day one.
> There are belleville (cupped) washers stacked to give some drag to the
> nosewheel to prevent shimmy. The nut is tight enough when it takes a
> 25 Lb pull at the wheel axle to move the nosewheel sideways. It may
> work on the -10 too.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
>>
>> I have experienced shimmy in mine (160 hrs) and have had to tighten
>> the large fork nut couple of times to prevent it. I suspect that
>> the shimmy might be due to wear at the washers. It seems that I
>> need to have a slight drag on the fork to eliminate shimmy. Also,
>> holding the stick in your lap on roll-out seems to help.
>>
>> Not familiar with the fix on the -6 gear, however a picture or a
>> part number from Van would be nice.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rob.
>>
>> On Jul 9, 2007, at 10:36 AM, Dave Lammers wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> This question is for those who are already flying.
>>>
>>> Have any of you experienced the RV shimmy in the main landing gear
>>> typical of that experienced in the RV6 series? This is an
>>> occasional shimmy (once every couple dozen landings) which occurs
>>> on landing rollout and is induced by rolling over an irregular
>>> surface deformation on landing rollout and generally can be stopped
>>> only by bringing the aircraft to a full stop. I've seen in in 3 of
>>> the several RV6's I've been involved with. Van changed the RV6
>>> plans to add a damping piece of wood fiberglassed to the aft
>>> surface of the gear leg, which is now the standard configuration on
>>> the -6.
>>>
>>> Second question: Has anyone added this to the RV10 gear legs? If
>>> so, why? Out of experienced shimmy, or out of precaution due to
>>> experience in other Van's tubular steel main landing gear aircraft?
>>>
>>> My guess is that the larger diameter and mass of the RV10 gear leg
>>> has changed the natural harmonic frequency of the leg so that this
>>> is not an issue and the dampener is not required. However, I
>>> thought I'd poll those of you flying, because I am at the point
>>> where adding this would be an easy thing to do.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>> Dave Lammers
>>> finishing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Gretz LED indicator dimensions |
I would like to drill the holes in the panel for the Gretz heated pitot
LED lights. Mine are stored in a friends hanger not immediately
accessible. So I'm hoping that someone might have theirs handy and could
take some measurements. Here's what I need:
1. The diameter of the LED's
2. The spacing of the LED's i.e. how far (center to center) are the
outside LED's spaced from the center LED?
Appreciate any response/help
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Gretz LED indicator dimensions |
3 holes 5/32 apart. The bulbs have a small flange on the bottom that has a
dia of 7/32. However the bulb itself is 3/16.
Hope that helps
Gary
40274 Fighting with instrument wireing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 12:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
I would like to drill the holes in the panel for the Gretz heated pitot
LED lights. Mine are stored in a friends hanger not immediately
accessible. So I'm hoping that someone might have theirs handy and could
take some measurements. Here's what I need:
1. The diameter of the LED's
2. The spacing of the LED's i.e. how far (center to center) are the
outside LED's spaced from the center LED?
Appreciate any response/help
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions |
Gary, Thanks for the quick response, just to double check, is the
spacing edge to edge on the 3 holes?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
>
> 3 holes 5/32 apart. The bulbs have a small flange on the bottom that has a
> dia of 7/32. However the bulb itself is 3/16.
>
> Hope that helps
> Gary
> 40274 Fighting with instrument wireing.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 12:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
>
>
> I would like to drill the holes in the panel for the Gretz heated pitot
> LED lights. Mine are stored in a friends hanger not immediately
> accessible. So I'm hoping that someone might have theirs handy and could
> take some measurements. Here's what I need:
>
> 1. The diameter of the LED's
> 2. The spacing of the LED's i.e. how far (center to center) are the
> outside LED's spaced from the center LED?
>
> Appreciate any response/help
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Gretz LED indicator dimensions |
Yes Left edge to left edge, or center to center however you like it but not
right edge to left edge. Does that make any sense. Just figure center to
center and you will have it.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
Gary, Thanks for the quick response, just to double check, is the
spacing edge to edge on the 3 holes?
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
>
> 3 holes 5/32 apart. The bulbs have a small flange on the bottom that has
a
> dia of 7/32. However the bulb itself is 3/16.
>
> Hope that helps
> Gary
> 40274 Fighting with instrument wireing.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 12:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
>
>
> I would like to drill the holes in the panel for the Gretz heated pitot
> LED lights. Mine are stored in a friends hanger not immediately
> accessible. So I'm hoping that someone might have theirs handy and could
> take some measurements. Here's what I need:
>
> 1. The diameter of the LED's
> 2. The spacing of the LED's i.e. how far (center to center) are the
> outside LED's spaced from the center LED?
>
> Appreciate any response/help
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse penetrations at wing root |
The scientific way to make this decision would be to measure the RF field around
all wires and decide whether there was any risk in bundling them. But most
everybody just uses one rule of thumb (ie., heuristic) or another.
Mine goes like this:
Strobes and lights can go together, along with other high current lines (e.g.,
pitot heat). Shielded (RG58, RG400) antenna lines want to be some distance from
high current lines -- at least a few inches if possible. And unshielded low
current lines like magnetometer wires headed out to the end of a wingtip want
to be about as far from high voltage pulsing lines as possible.
This added up to 3 or 4 holes each side.
-Dan Masys
N104LD built - airworthiness inspection in 4 days...
---- "McGANN wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm about to finalise my wiring between the wings and panel. I have opted for
qick disconnects at the wing root and plan separate molex connectors for the
DC wiring and strobes, BNC bulkhead connectors for the Nav and MB antennas and
bulkhead connector for the pitot. The plans suggest that a single hole be enlarged
to accommodate the wiring to the wing. Before I make swiss cheese of
the fuse (ie 5 holes per side), would appreciate feedback on what others have
done and whether Vans has limitations on the number, size and location of these
holes.
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> first power to the panel and smoke stayed in the wire!!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz LED indicator dimensions |
I'm pretty dense but something's not computing here for me:
If the diameter of the portion of the bulb that will project through the
panel is 3/16" (6/32") then 2 bulbs placed side by side would have a
'center to center' measurement of 6/32"... right?
So how can the center to center measurement be less than this??? Is it 3
holes 5/16" apart???
I'm obviously missing something.
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
>
> Yes Left edge to left edge, or center to center however you like it but not
> right edge to left edge. Does that make any sense. Just figure center to
> center and you will have it.
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 1:55 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
>
>
> Gary, Thanks for the quick response, just to double check, is the
> spacing edge to edge on the 3 holes?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> gary wrote:
>
>>
>> 3 holes 5/32 apart. The bulbs have a small flange on the bottom that has
>>
> a
>
>> dia of 7/32. However the bulb itself is 3/16.
>>
>> Hope that helps
>> Gary
>> 40274 Fighting with instrument wireing.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 12:51 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
>>
>>
>> I would like to drill the holes in the panel for the Gretz heated pitot
>> LED lights. Mine are stored in a friends hanger not immediately
>> accessible. So I'm hoping that someone might have theirs handy and could
>> take some measurements. Here's what I need:
>>
>> 1. The diameter of the LED's
>> 2. The spacing of the LED's i.e. how far (center to center) are the
>> outside LED's spaced from the center LED?
>>
>> Appreciate any response/help
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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OK, I found the answer to my question. Eric at Dynon told me the problem was
that the D-180 unit comes from the factory with General Purpose Input #1 set
up as an OAT input and needs to be changed to some other function or set to
Unused. This also applies to any other GP input as only one OAT can be
connected at a time. Otherwise, the probe connected to the compass module
conflicts with the GP input and shows -46F.
Also, the 3 wire probe (identified with a black bank) can be used as a 2
wire probe connected to a GP input but needs to be wired as follows: Yellow
wire is sig.; blue wire is ground; and red wire is unused.
Thanks, Eric.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon OAT Probe
My Dynon 180 always shows -45F or -46F degrees AOT. I ordered another OAT
probe but it reads the same. This is the OAT probe with the black band that
connects into the remote compass box. Can't find anything wrong with the
wiring and the probe is configured as choice 2 in the setup menu just like
Dynon says.
Anyone else been down this road?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: prop governor changes |
So what is "the desired position" of the arm for the RV-10? I think we all received
the below information a few weeks ago and it is useful, but incomplete.
When the supplied governor is mounted, the arm is pointing down in the 6 o'clock
position (max RPM) and moves 90 degrees to the 3 o'clock position. I was thinking
of moving it 90 degrees clockwise to the 9 o'clock position or to the 10
o'clock position. This should allow full motion. For those that have done
this on the RV-10, what is the best position of the MT governor arm in the maximum
and minimum RPM positions. This would be helpful to us all who have the
MT governor from the Van's FF kit.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>
>
> David,
>
> Here is the respone I got from MT:
>
> All P-860-( ) governors are basically the same. The - ( ) number only refers
> to the control arm position and the max. rpm of the governor. To change the
> control arm, loosen the 6 screws, turn the entire center portion to the
> desired position, tighten the 6 screws and safety.
>
> To change max rpm the set screw on the high rpm stop is turned
> counterclockwise (out) to increase rpm and clockwise (in) to decrease rpm.
> If there is not enough adjustment possible ( 1 turn = 25 rpm) the control
> arm must be reset on the spline one notch at the time.
>
> All this can be done on the plane.
>
> To have MT Propeller USA, Inc. modify the governor max. rpm would cost
> approx. $100.00, unfortunately the control arm position must be adjusted on
> the plane
>
> Best Regards,
> Juergen Zahner
> mt-propeller USA, Inc.
> ph: 386-736-7762
> fax:386-736-7696
> Juergen.Zahner@mt-propellerusa.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: prop governor changes |
William, I think the 'best' position depends on how you intend to mount
your prop control cable. If you use the standard Van's supplied mount
the 9-10 o'clock position would be close. HOWEVER. BE Careful as the
change from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock will reverse the actual operation of
the governor. I.E. a PUSH on the prop control cable with the arm @ 3
o'clock will have the opposite effect on the governor with the arm
mounted @ 9 o'clock. I would recommend at least temporarily attaching
your governor cable and verifying the movement, This will also give you
a much better idea of just where you want the arm positioned before you
cut the safety wire and reposition and safety
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
William Curtis wrote:
>
> So what is "the desired position" of the arm for the RV-10? I think we all received
the below information a few weeks ago and it is useful, but incomplete.
>
> When the supplied governor is mounted, the arm is pointing down in the 6 o'clock
position (max RPM) and moves 90 degrees to the 3 o'clock position. I was
thinking of moving it 90 degrees clockwise to the 9 o'clock position or to the
10 o'clock position. This should allow full motion. For those that have done
this on the RV-10, what is the best position of the MT governor arm in the maximum
and minimum RPM positions. This would be helpful to us all who have the
MT governor from the Van's FF kit.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>>
>>
>> David,
>>
>> Here is the respone I got from MT:
>>
>> All P-860-( ) governors are basically the same. The - ( ) number only refers
>> to the control arm position and the max. rpm of the governor. To change the
>> control arm, loosen the 6 screws, turn the entire center portion to the
>> desired position, tighten the 6 screws and safety.
>>
>> To change max rpm the set screw on the high rpm stop is turned
>> counterclockwise (out) to increase rpm and clockwise (in) to decrease rpm.
>> If there is not enough adjustment possible ( 1 turn = 25 rpm) the control
>> arm must be reset on the spline one notch at the time.
>>
>> All this can be done on the plane.
>>
>> To have MT Propeller USA, Inc. modify the governor max. rpm would cost
>> approx. $100.00, unfortunately the control arm position must be adjusted on
>> the plane
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Juergen Zahner
>> mt-propeller USA, Inc.
>> ph: 386-736-7762
>> fax:386-736-7696
>> Juergen.Zahner@mt-propellerusa.com
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Gretz LED indicator dimensions |
3 holes 5/32 apart.
Sorry for the confusion.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
I'm pretty dense but something's not computing here for me:
If the diameter of the portion of the bulb that will project through the
panel is 3/16" (6/32") then 2 bulbs placed side by side would have a
'center to center' measurement of 6/32"... right?
So how can the center to center measurement be less than this??? Is it 3
holes 5/16" apart???
I'm obviously missing something.
Deems Davis # 406
Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
>
> Yes Left edge to left edge, or center to center however you like it but
not
> right edge to left edge. Does that make any sense. Just figure center to
> center and you will have it.
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 1:55 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
>
>
> Gary, Thanks for the quick response, just to double check, is the
> spacing edge to edge on the 3 holes?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> gary wrote:
>
>>
>> 3 holes 5/32 apart. The bulbs have a small flange on the bottom that has
>>
> a
>
>> dia of 7/32. However the bulb itself is 3/16.
>>
>> Hope that helps
>> Gary
>> 40274 Fighting with instrument wireing.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 12:51 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Gretz LED indicator dimensions
>>
>>
>> I would like to drill the holes in the panel for the Gretz heated pitot
>> LED lights. Mine are stored in a friends hanger not immediately
>> accessible. So I'm hoping that someone might have theirs handy and could
>> take some measurements. Here's what I need:
>>
>> 1. The diameter of the LED's
>> 2. The spacing of the LED's i.e. how far (center to center) are the
>> outside LED's spaced from the center LED?
>>
>> Appreciate any response/help
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Engine / Wiring and Panel Stuff
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Gretz LED indicator Dimming |
On the subject of Gretz LED indicators, does anyone know how to wire
the unit to allow for dimming?
The LEDs are quite bright, and may be a distraction at night.
Indran
#40228
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT Probe |
Well you at least got some E-cooling to relieve the current AZ heat
wave. 8-)
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> OK, I found the answer to my question. Eric at Dynon told me the problem was
> that the D-180 unit comes from the factory with General Purpose Input #1 set
> up as an OAT input and needs to be changed to some other function or set to
> Unused. This also applies to any other GP input as only one OAT can be
> connected at a time. Otherwise, the probe connected to the compass module
> conflicts with the GP input and shows -46F.
>
> Also, the 3 wire probe (identified with a black bank) can be used as a 2
> wire probe connected to a GP input but needs to be wired as follows: Yellow
> wire is sig.; blue wire is ground; and red wire is unused.
>
> Thanks, Eric.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: RV10-List: Dynon OAT Probe
> My Dynon 180 always shows -45F or -46F degrees AOT. I ordered another OAT
> probe but it reads the same. This is the OAT probe with the black band that
> connects into the remote compass box. Can't find anything wrong with the
> wiring and the probe is configured as choice 2 in the setup menu just like
> Dynon says.
> Anyone else been down this road?
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
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