Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:42 AM - Re: Re: high oil temp (ddddsp1@juno.com)
2. 06:31 AM - Re: high oil temp (Rob Kermanj)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: high oil temp (Rob Kermanj)
4. 06:33 AM - Re: high oil temp (Rob Kermanj)
5. 06:37 AM - Re: high oil temp (bill@airflow)
6. 06:41 AM - High Oil temps (Rob Kermanj)
7. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: high oil temp (Rob Kermanj)
8. 08:39 AM - Re: high oil temp (tintopranch)
9. 08:42 AM - Re: tunnel temps (tintopranch)
10. 09:04 AM - Re: tunnel temps (Tim Olson)
11. 12:03 PM - Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions (Michael Wellenzohn)
12. 02:48 PM - Re: tunnel temps (Michael Wellenzohn)
13. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: tunnel temps (Chris and Susie McGough)
14. 04:55 PM - Re: tunnel temps (Dan Masys)
15. 05:16 PM - Re: Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions (Larry Rosen)
16. 05:47 PM - Re: Re: tunnel temps (Rick Sked)
17. 05:56 PM - Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) paint system (Tim Lewis)
18. 06:32 PM - Re: Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) paint system (dogsbark@comcast.net)
19. 07:14 PM - Re: Windshield Installation (Deems Davis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
Bill,
Thanks for your reply on this issue. It would benefit everyone on this
list if you would share your data on the oil cooler. How much temps dec
rease? How was the testing conducted? Temps? Humidity? aircraft? hours
tested? etc. What is significant temp reduction? Most posts on this li
st are anedotal responses based on limited personal experience or that o
f a few friends. Hearing your professional experience and the extensive
testing procedures of this issue would be of value. Just like discussi
ons on PROP performance it is hard to replicate a CREDIBLE test or side
by side tests, so please share your details to assist all us builders de
ciding what we can do to improve our aircraft.
Thanks,
Dean 805HL
________________________________________________________________________
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32
<html><P>Bill,</P>
<P>Thanks for your reply on this issue. It would benefit everyone
on this list if you would share your data on the oil cooler. How m
uch temps decrease? How was the testing conducted? Temps? Humidity
? aircraft? hours tested? etc. What is significant temp reduction?
Most posts on this list are anedotal responses based on limited p
ersonal experience or that of a few friends. Hearing your professi
onal experience and the extensive testing procedures of this issue would
be of value. Just like discussions on PROP performance it is hard
to replicate a CREDIBLE test or side by side tests, so please share you
r details to assist all us builders deciding what we can do to improve o
ur aircraft.</P>
<P>Thanks,</P>
<P>Dean 805HL</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
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/2-2125045-32">Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!<br></a><br></
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
Thank you for the info.
Rob.
Do not archive
On Aug 2, 2007, at 4:20 PM, pilotdds@aol.com wrote:
> It was a direct replacement-simple install-I bought louvres but did
> not feel I needed them after the new oil cooler.I did remove the
> dams on 1 and two.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 8:04 am
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: high oil temp
>
> Does this oil cooler fit or did you have to modify things?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Aug 2, 2007, at 10:58 AM, pilotdds@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I had similar problems that disapeared with the oil cooler made by
>> the air-conditioning folks and marketed by Alex De dominicis.10
>> degree reduction and much quicker cooling after climb.Temps have
>> been well over 100 in our valley.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 2:52 am
>> Subject: RV10-List: high oil temp
>>
>>
>> Hello everyone. I just flew from Florida to California and had a
>> serious oil temp issue. The temperatures are very hot across
>> southern part of the country so I am not sure if this is to be
>> expected.
>>
>> I am seeing 220 climbing through 5000 and need to lower the nose
>> and climb only at 300 fpm to keep the temp from climbing higher.
>> This is even worse after a fuel stop when the engine gets soaked
>> with heat.
>>
>> I used to have to watch my CHT but now it is the oil temp limiting
>> my performance.
>>
>> Does anyone else have similar issues at this time of the year?
>>
>> I have no modifications to the cowl and have Vans FWF stuff.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rob Kermanj
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
Thank you for the info.
Rob.
Do not archive
On Aug 2, 2007, at 10:29 PM, ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> I have the louvers on the bottom of the cowl..........they do
> work. If you just install the SW cooler and do NOT put in the
> louvers don't expect much of a change. AMF when I talked to the
> people selling the "better" oil cooler for $500 they would not
> promise cooler oil temps without adding the louvers. Airflow over
> the cooler is the issue in the RV10...........NOT the cooler itself.
>
> IMHO Dean 805HL
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> __
> /2-2125045-32">Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
Thanks.
Rob.
Do not archive
On Aug 2, 2007, at 7:13 PM, pilotdds@aol.com wrote:
> In my humble experience ,verified with before and after
> testing ,the oil cooler without the louvres do improve cooling.I
> installed the cooler with the intent of placing the louvres later
> and found it unnecesary.The heating of the firewall seems to cause
> the oil cooler to become a heat sink .Additional airflow over the
> cooler can only help but may not be necesary.On sat 7-21 I was held
> on the ground for 40 minutes in 106 degree heat,oil temp reached
> 228 on the ground.On release and 1000 fpm climbout ,110 mph ,three
> large men aboard temp went to 207.Leveling at 5500 temp went to 195.
> Hope this helps
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ddddsp1@juno.com <ddddsp1@juno.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, 2 Aug 2007 3:29 pm
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: high oil temp
>
> I have the louvers on the bottom of the cowl..........they do
> work. If you just install the SW cooler and do NOT put in the
> louvers don't expect much of a change. AMF when I talked to the
> people selling the "better" oil cooler for $500 they would not
> promise cooler oil temps without adding the louvers. Airflow over
> the cooler is the issue in the RV10...........NOT the cooler itself.
> IMHO Dean 805HL
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> __
> /2-2125045-32">Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
| From: | "bill@airflow" <airflow2@cox.net> |
Dean,
Thanks for the invite to share data. I will be happy to do that upon my return
from a planned family vacation which starts in a few minutes. I will be back
Aug. 10 midday for half a day and can post again then.
We are willing to share data but I do not want it to sound like a commercial.
I will present it as charts, along with our observations, that will be available
to anyone that is interested so that they can draw their own conclusions.
My wife its past time to go...
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127316#127316
Message 6
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I wanted to thank everyone for taking the time and helping to point
me to a possible solution. At least I know that others have
experienced similar oil temps and I will not have to tear into my
cowl on a 100 deg ramp looking for a bird's nest for the return trip.
I would certainly appreciate further comments.
Rob.
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
Thank you Bill. Your information will be very helpful.
Rob.
Do not archive
On Aug 3, 2007, at 9:36 AM, bill@airflow wrote:
>
> Dean,
>
> Thanks for the invite to share data. I will be happy to do that
> upon my return from a planned family vacation which starts in a few
> minutes. I will be back Aug. 10 midday for half a day and can post
> again then.
>
> We are willing to share data but I do not want it to sound like a
> commercial. I will present it as charts, along with our
> observations, that will be available to anyone that is interested
> so that they can draw their own conclusions.
>
> My wife its past time to go...
>
> Bill
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127316#127316
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: high oil temp |
I live in TX and did see 200+ oil temps on climb out, I added an extra set of van's
cowl vents on the bottom of the cowl under the oil cooler and have seen my
oil temps stay under 200 on climb outs now. I also sealed up all of the large
gaps in my baffles. So it does appear the oil cooler needs some help on hot
days in a climb or slow flight.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127327#127327
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: tunnel temps |
I am flying with the koolmat installed and have not had any problems with the tunnel
temp. My wieght and CG are right inline with Van's. I would keep it. I
have been pleased the noise and heat reduction.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127328#127328
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: tunnel temps |
You could get rid of it and try it, but, I think you're going to want
something on the firewall anyway, be it Kool Mat or other, so I'd
say just leave it and see what you think after you fly. it's nice just
to prevent some sound resonance.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
The McGough Family wrote:
> Guys that are flying I installed a Kool mat on the firewall due do
> complaints of tunnel heat. This has all seem to die down. I am about to
> install engine and was thinking of taking the mat off as of the weight
> and as there may not be a tunnel problem with 90 RV10 s flying
>
> Any thoughts
>
> Chris Down under
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions |
Great,
I just started to work on thes servo today and had the same question. It is quite
some time ago that I received the servos and I can't recall if the pitch servo
comes with the bolts, brackets and bearing, spacer etc.
I'd like to clarify that befor I call TT.
Best Regardsa from Switzerland
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127361#127361
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: tunnel temps |
Can anyone please tell me the exact name of that Kool mat and where to order? Has
Spruce this? I believe you mount this on the cabin side of the FW.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127382#127382
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: tunnel temps |
Its called Kool mat and spruce sell it
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: tunnel temps
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Can anyone please tell me the exact name of that Kool mat and where to
> order? Has Spruce this? I believe you mount this on the cabin side of the
> FW.
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (wings)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127382#127382
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: tunnel temps |
As one of the newest RV-10's in the sky I would add the observation that although
I did put the insulation that Flightline sells on the cabin side of the firewall
in front of pilot and copilot positions, I did not put any insulation in
the tunnel, (including no insulation on the piece of the firewall that is inside
the tunnel). I also fabricated the little air dam that goes between the air
valves, and put some baffle material between the air valve seats and the firewall.
With this, and the latest version of the exhaust system design that comes with
Vans FWF kit (two pipes, longer length than earlier exhaust designs), there is
virtually no tunnel heat problem in my RV-10. In fact, cruising along at 9.5K
on the way back from OSH, the tunnel was quite chilly with the outside air temp
at about 55F. (But lots of heat was available on demand from both front and
rear vents).
So it may be that with evolutionary changes to the kit, particularly the FWF exhaust
system, the tunnel heat problem is history. (My kit was 40448 and I got
the FWF kit about December of last year).
-Dan Masys
N104LD flying 33 hrs.
---- Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> You could get rid of it and try it, but, I think you're going to want
> something on the firewall anyway, be it Kool Mat or other, so I'd
> say just leave it and see what you think after you fly. it's nice just
> to prevent some sound resonance.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> The McGough Family wrote:
> > Guys that are flying I installed a Kool mat on the firewall due do
> > complaints of tunnel heat. This has all seem to die down. I am about to
> > install engine and was thinking of taking the mat off as of the weight
> > and as there may not be a tunnel problem with 90 RV10 s flying
> >
> > Any thoughts
> >
> > Chris Down under
> >
> > *
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: TT Pitch Servo Install Directions |
About a year ago TT changed the mounting of the RV-10 pitch servo for
torque enhancement. There is a new wheel and cables attached to a
moving rail. It requires a new mounting bracket in lieu of the one
supplied with the kit. See the photos on Tim's site
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/index.html>.
If yours does not look like this call TT.
Larry
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Great,
>
> I just started to work on thes servo today and had the same question. It is quite
some time ago that I received the servos and I can't recall if the pitch
servo comes with the bolts, brackets and bearing, spacer etc.
>
> I'd like to clarify that befor I call TT.
>
> Best Regardsa from Switzerland
> Michael
>
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (wings)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127361#127361
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: tunnel temps |
Michael,
Actually it mounts on the firewall side, it's widely used on race car firewalls.
I think it looks good, although cutting out all the little holes was fun. It
is a fiberglass woven cloth with a silicone covering. Heres the direct link.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Sent: Friday, August 3, 2007 4:54:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel temps
Its called Kool mat and spruce sell it
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 7:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: tunnel temps
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Can anyone please tell me the exact name of that Kool mat and where to
> order? Has Spruce this? I believe you mount this on the cabin side of the
> FW.
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (wings)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=127382#127382
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) paint system |
Listers,
I spent some time talking to the Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) guys at
OSH about their water-borne polyurethane paint system. I painted my
RV-6A with Imron (single stage) back in 1999, but am interested in something less
hazardous for my RV-10, if it'll do a good job. Do any listers have any
experiences with this paint that you'd care to share? I'm interested in
any experiences with applying the paint, quality of finish, and
durability (wear, resistance to fuel spills, etc).
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) paint system |
Tim,
I've been using the AFS White Primer for the entire project. I think it's at least
as durable as the Sherwin Williams Wash Primer or the rattle can stuff.
Easy to clean afterward.
It can be diluted with water, but be careful to only apply a light "fog" initially
to the parts. After that, it adheres to the parts without running as easily.
Dry time is good too.
Just as an experiment, I applied some of the AFS 2 Part High Gloss Paint to the
interior rear foot wells early into the fuselage construction. After much traffic
and the occasional dropped bucking bar and other things, it seems to be
holding up well. Gloss is as advertised. I can't speak to the comparisson to
other brands.....no other experience.
Limited information to your specific question....hope it helps.
Sean Blair
#40225
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
> Listers,
>
> I spent some time talking to the Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) guys at
> OSH about their water-borne polyurethane paint system. I painted my
> RV-6A with Imron (single stage) back in 1999, but am interested in something
> less
> hazardous for my RV-10, if it'll do a good job. Do any listers have any
> experiences with this paint that you'd care to share? I'm interested in
> any experiences with applying the paint, quality of finish, and
> durability (wear, resistance to fuel spills, etc).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> --
>
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
>
>
>
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Tim,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I've been using the AFS White Primer for the entire project. I think
it's at least as durable as the Sherwin Williams Wash Primer or the rattle can
stuff. Easy to clean afterward.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It can be diluted with water, but be careful to only apply a light "fog" initially
to the parts. After that, it adheres to the parts without running
as easily. Dry time is good too.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Just as an experiment, I applied some of the AFS 2 Part High Gloss Paint
to the interior rear foot wells early into the fuselage construction.
After much traffic and the occasional dropped bucking bar and other
things, it seems to be holding up well. Gloss is as advertised.
I can't speak to the comparisson to other brands.....no other experience.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Limited information to your specific question....hope it helps.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Sean Blair</DIV>
<DIV>#40225</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
<BR><BR>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim
Lewis <TIM_LEWIS@MSM.UMR.EDU><BR>> <BR>> Listers, <BR>> <BR>> I
spent some time talking to the Stewart Systems (formerly AFS) guys at <BR>>
OSH about their water-borne polyurethane paint system. I painted my <BR>>
RV-6A with Imron (single stage) back in 1999, but am interested in something
<BR>> less <BR>> hazardous for my RV-10, if it'll do a good job. Do any
listers have any <BR>> experiences with this paint that you'd care to share?
I'm interested in <BR>> any experiences with applying the paint, quality
of finish, and <BR>> durability (wear, resistance to fuel spills, etc). <BR>>
<BR>> Thanks, <BR>> <BR>> Tim Lewis <BR>> -- <BR>> <BR>>
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) <BR>> RV-6A N47
TD --
BR>>
; </BLOCKQUOTE>
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield Installation |
Cal, I also had a problem with the windscreen bowing outward from the
cabin frame. here's a link to a picture of what I did.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC04376.html
Basically I used some clamps, some clecos and some scrap .062 alum
'fingers' to hold it in place.
As to the Gap on the bottom of the windscreen, I'm not sure that it's
too critical, as the windscreen is held in place primarily by the
fiberglass layups that lay over this and the upper fwd fuse. You will
fill the gap with flox, and obvioudly the smaller the gap the les there
is that will seep inside and need to be cleaned/removed.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Cal Hoffman wrote:
> How much pressure are people using to make the windshield fit against
> the right and left sides of the upper forward fuse top? My windshield
> curve does not exactly match the curve and I am hesitant to trim
> more. What is an allowable gap around the windshield bottom?
> *
> *
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