Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:05 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
2. 06:31 AM - Re: Long Bolts? (Jesse Saint)
3. 06:45 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
5. 07:32 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Rob Kermanj)
6. 09:37 AM - GTX330 vs GTX327 (Chris Johnston)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: GTX330 vs GTX327 (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 12:02 PM - Re: GTX330 vs GTX327 (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
9. 01:07 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Bob Newman)
10. 01:32 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Tim Olson)
11. 05:03 PM - RV flyin at Tea, SD (ddddsp1@juno.com)
12. 08:02 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
13. 08:21 PM - RTV As a sealant (Les Kearney)
14. 09:46 PM - Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Tim Olson)
15. 11:19 PM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Marc Cook)
16. 11:43 PM - Additional Hardware / Items required for FWF Kit? (Michael Wellenzohn)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
I also used the Andair setup, just in Duplex form. Like Tim I would
recommend using the 12" extension, this makes it very easy to place the
valve at the bottom of the tunnel and freeing up allot of room for the
SCAT tubing to pass through.
You can see in the attached photos, specifically 134 what Tim was
talking about needing to get the valve level so that the extension will
pass through the upper whole in the tunnel. I made the bracket at the
bottom with a cross support that way I could use washers to adjust the
fore and aft angle on the extension.
In the 405 photo you can see the different fittings offered from Andair,
in hind sight there are several things I would have changed on my
original order from Andair, as it was a bit of trial and error in the
beginning. On their website http://www.andair.co.uk/ , the automated
configuration tool does not show all of the optional fittings in
building the valve, you have to call for these, but what I ordered was a
duplex and you will only need a single, but the important part is to go
to the accessories page and get the EF20 for your two side fittings and
then use the MF20 for your feed to the bulk head
http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html with these fittings installed
it makes it a very simple and clean install and you can use single
flared fittings at each location rather than having to use
adapters/elbows etc.
Hope this helps
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
Chris, I'm not 100% sure what valve would be best anymore because it's
been a LOOOOONG time now since I installed mine. I do think perhaps
the one that has the inlets at the 45 degree forward facing positions
would perhaps give better clearance than the one I used. The only
clearance issue is really the rudder cable area, and mine doesn't
contact it at all, but just requires some care to install well.
I can tell you this though. I'm 100% satisfied with going with that
Andair valve or any Andair valve. They're nice valves and I'd do it
again if I built another. I'm also 100% satisfied with using a
single flex line from the valve to the tank. I think that's the cat's
meow for routing.
As far as mounting the valve goes, if you put a swivel in it, I
think I'd only put one swivel in and mount the valve low in the
tunnel and put the swivel right on the valve so it's all stem to
the top. I have good reason for this. The way I have the valve
mounted (I don't have a swivel though) I was able to wrap the stem
in UHMW tape, and run the SCAT right through the area in the top
of the tunnel next to the valve. And, even if the stem touched
the SCAT, the tape prevents any wear. With a valve mounted up
high there, you'll have to squash and mash the SCAT tube
and force it to fit, or reduce it like some people have done.
Those are kind of hacked fixes IMHO, when you have the option to
mount the valve low and give plenty of room for the called-for SCAT.
I haven't seen the universal joint for a long time to remember how
tall it was, but my only concern with adding one would be that I
would want to leave at least 2 or 3" of stem at the top under the valve
to give clearance for that SCAT. Other than that, adding the
U-joint wouldn't be bad at all. The positive side is that with
that U-Joint you can be sloppier with the valve angle and mounting,
whereas I was required to have them line up fairly straight and
parallel to the tunnel cover surface, and cut the stem the exact
length so I could slide the stem in place, put the valve handle
over it, and tighten it down. I don't have a way to lock the
handle to the stem, given the install, but I worked hard to
make the fit as tight as possible so there's no way once the
handle is screwed down that it's coming apart. Much harder to
describe than to show in person. Either way, you will want to
order a 12" extension, because then you can cut one and if you
end up too short you have an entire spare half to re-cut one.
I don't know if the supplied elbow would be best, or if what I
did would be more compact, if you use the same valve as me.
I cut off the tip of the NPT threads, and used a die to cut
the threads a little further so that I'd shorten that stem
just another 1/16-1/8" to give a little clearance. That worked
well. But if the andair 90 is more compact, I'd go with that.
I couldn't get one easily when I was ordering. If you have
time to get the parts though, I'd look hard at the Left/Right
valve with the ports to the front on the 45's.
Good luck with it. It's working out great for me so far.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
toaster73@earthlink.net wrote:
> Looked at the archives for some advice on which valve is the latest
and
> greatest. SO what is the consensus these days on the model valve to go
> with and where is the best place to get one. Tim Olson, I think you
> mentioned if you did it over again you would utilize the universal
joint
> out there no?.
> Is the best mount setup to use extensions and mount the valve down in
> the tunnel or go for right up against the tunnel cover?
> Looks like PN fs20x3 is the choice and have 90 deg elbow supplied by
> andair put on, but should I go with universal at both ends with 6inch
ext.?
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
> fuselage and mods (mods take time)
>
Message 2
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Thanks. I was able to find what I needed. The engine mount bolts are only
24 length and I needed in the 67-76 range for about a 7" grip. I found them
on the website that Carlos shared.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Long Bolts?
Those sound like engine mount bolts if I remember right, aren't they?
I can't remember which ones off hand, but I did order an extra set
at one point and I think I got them either from ACS or Wicks.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> Does anybody know where I can find long AN hardware? For example, an
> AN5-67(A).
>
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>
> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
Below is what I did using the valve Neal is talking about. Works well.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c
ategory=1703&log=15806&row=6
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Neal George
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
Paul -
The FS20x3 valve has a 180-degree swing between left and right tanks, and i
s a VERY tight fit in the -10 tunnel. The FS20x7 series fits much easier a
nd (I think) looks nicer. Reports from folks using the 6-inch extension ha
ve been positive, few have needed universal joints (one, that I know of).
If you choose to use the extension, with a little care in fitting the lower
mount plate, you can forego the universal joints (about $45 each).
As for sourcing, I'd recommend you go direct to Andair and order from the w
ebsite. It will be faster, less expensive, and you're more likely to get e
xactly what you asked for. Be prepared - the exchange rate is painful...
You want the FS20x7T EXT...
FS = Fuel Selector
20 = Line Diameter in 0.5 mm increments (3/8" or AN6)
x = male output fitting (or F for Female)
7 = valve body style (7 indicates the two-port 90-deg swing body, Left at
335-, Right at 45- and off at 180-deg)
T = 90-deg male AN6 inlet fittings - more compact, fewer joints and less
expensive than screwing AN6 90-deg adapters into female fittings.
EXT = 6-inch extension unles you specify something else (if memory serves
)
Now, pay attention - The standard extension kit includes a black anodized b
ezel with engraving that results in "silver" lettering. If you want a "sil
ver" (clear anodized aluminum) bezel with black and red lettered engravings
, you need to specify that in the comments (or special instructions) sectio
n.
neal
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Grimstad
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
Thanks for the meaningful questions about Andair. I am standing by to hear
the feed back. The linkage sound like a good idea and I recall looking a on
e set-up with the fuel valve canted and moved forward just below the quadra
nt.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: toaster73@earthlink.net<mailto:toaster73@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
Looked at the archives for some advice on which valve is the latest and gre
atest. SO what is the consensus these days on the model valve to go with an
d where is the best place to get one. Tim Olson, I think you mentioned if y
ou did it over again you would utilize the universal joint out there no?.
Is the best mount setup to use extensions and mount the valve down in the
tunnel or go for right up against the tunnel cover?
Looks like PN fs20x3 is the choice and have 90 deg elbow supplied by andair
put on, but should I go with universal at both ends with 6inch ext.?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
fuselage and mods (mods take time)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
Chris,
There will never be a consensus on any topic... except maybe that the RV-10
is the airplane of choice.
Mods do take time. Personally, I went with the standard Van's fuel valve. It
works great. I did make one mod that allows for error-resistant (I won't
claim error-proof) operation without having to look down. I put 2 screws with
1/4" aluminum tube spacers in the tunnel cover. I simply grab the screw and
squeeze the lever until it lines up. For OFF you rotate the lever aft. Very
simple. See attached picture.
-Jim
40134 - First annual taking longer than I'd like
In a message dated 8/7/2007 5:01:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
toaster73@earthlink.net writes:
Looked at the archives for some advice on which valve is the latest and
greatest. SO what is the consensus these days on the model valve to go with and
where is the best place to get one. Tim Olson, I think you mentioned if you
did it over again you would utilize the universal joint out there no?.
Is the best mount setup to use extensions and mount the valve down in the
tunnel or go for right up against the tunnel cover?
Looks like PN fs20x3 is the choice and have 90 deg elbow supplied by andair
put on, but should I go with universal at both ends with 6inch ext.?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
fuselage and mods (mods take time)
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
You can also use the valve that comes withe the kit and purchase the
Cleveland valve handle they make for RV10. It looks nice and does
not need any modifications.
Rob.
On Aug 7, 2007, at 4:58 PM, <toaster73@earthlink.net>
<toaster73@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Looked at the archives for some advice on which valve is the latest
> and greatest. SO what is the consensus these days on the model
> valve to go with and where is the best place to get one. Tim Olson,
> I think you mentioned if you did it over again you would utilize
> the universal joint out there no?.
> Is the best mount setup to use extensions and mount the valve down
> in the tunnel or go for right up against the tunnel cover?
> Looks like PN fs20x3 is the choice and have 90 deg elbow supplied
> by andair put on, but should I go with universal at both ends with
> 6inch ext.?
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
> fuselage and mods (mods take time)
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | GTX330 vs GTX327 |
Hey all -
Here's a dumb question... does the GTX330 get you anything super neato
besides mode S traffic? I'm asking because I'm wanting to get the
Avidyne TAS600 to have active traffic, and I wonder if I'm losing any
functionality that I'll miss if I get that and a GTX327 to offset some
of the cost. Is there something else cool that I don't know about the
GTX330?
Thanks for any opinions!
cj
#40410
fuse/finishing/mods (yup. Mods take time)
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | GTX330 vs GTX327 |
Chris,
Only thing I can think of is that it has a LOT of ports (ARINC 429 and
RS-232) and there are references in the install docs about using it to
act as a repeater/concentrator for other devices. Not sure if this is
the same on the 327 or not. I'll send you more info offline.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 9:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GTX330 vs GTX327
Hey all -
Here's a dumb question... does the GTX330 get you anything super neato
besides mode S traffic? I'm asking because I'm wanting to get the
Avidyne TAS600 to have active traffic, and I wonder if I'm losing any
functionality that I'll miss if I get that and a GTX327 to offset some
of the cost. Is there something else cool that I don't know about the
GTX330?
Thanks for any opinions!
cj
#40410
fuse/finishing/mods (yup. Mods take time)
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | GTX330 vs GTX327 |
Bob, you are correct the 330 has 429 interfaces where the
327 doesn't have any. Also the 330 has altitude warning feature
(haven't used it yet) and it also will show Density Altitiude if you
wire up an OAT probe to the 330. I wired it up to mine, but then I guy
doesn't need 3 OAT sticking out in the air.
Also in your consideration is the upcoming upgrade to the
330 to make it capable with 1090ES (software upgrade I've been told),
which is a standard for transmitting adsb info using the 1090 Mhz
transmitter. The 330 however does not have a 1090 receiver, so you will
not be able to see other 1090ES transmitted traffic (ship to ship)
except you would see that traffic if you are within the range of a TIS
transmitting facility which uses the 1030Mhz receiver built into the
330.
It would be nice if Garmin had two upgrades available, one
with the software only and another that added the 1090 reciever, then we
would have the best of both worlds. I guess we will have to see how it
shakes out.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 1:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: GTX330 vs GTX327
Chris,
Only thing I can think of is that it has a LOT of ports (ARINC 429 and
RS-232) and there are references in the install docs about using it to
act as a repeater/concentrator for other devices. Not sure if this is
the same on the 327 or not. I'll send you more info offline.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 9:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GTX330 vs GTX327
Hey all -
Here's a dumb question... does the GTX330 get you anything super neato
besides mode S traffic? I'm asking because I'm wanting to get the
Avidyne TAS600 to have active traffic, and I wonder if I'm losing any
functionality that I'll miss if I get that and a GTX327 to offset some
of the cost. Is there something else cool that I don't know about the
GTX330?
Thanks for any opinions!
cj
#40410
fuse/finishing/mods (yup. Mods take time)
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
I need to weigh in on this one. I have an Andair valve installed in
our Glastar and we did have an issue with their Female Pipe Thread
inlets. I am installing an Andair valve in my RV-10 but with the
following note.
In the glastar, like the Rv-10, a 90 degree turn is needed after
exiting the valve. To do this we installed 90 elbows (AN822), AN flare
to male pipe thread. We had a terrible time getting the pipe threads
to seal with the proper clocking of the elbows. We tried many types of
sealant including the highly recommended Fuelube, Finally the only
thing that seemed to work was a product called Blue-Block which is much
more viscous than other sealants I've used and rated for gasoline. It
worked from 1999 till our conditional inspection in Nov of 2006. I
found that these fitting were still weeping fuel. I removed the
fittings and changed them over to the new modular 90 degree cast AN-6
series fittings that Andair now makes, thus completely eliminating the
tapered pipe thread connections from the system. (now flared AN
connections bolt right up to the Andair Valve heading in the right
direction).
The engineer in me though says, what caused these pipe threads to not
seal? Upon inspection of the old andair female pipe thread modular
adapters I noticed that the threads did not seem to be cut deep enough
into the part with respect to engaging the tapered thread. I believe
that this was causing the male pipe thread part (elbow) to bottom out
within the Andair part instead of allowing the joint to get suitably
tight by the tapered geometry.
So the lesson in my book is to check your fittings before assembly and
ensure they can fully engage.
On my RV-10 fuel valve I am using the one with the straight extension
and the cast 90 degree modular elbows.
Bob Newman
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
You may have a point there. I *think* when I trimmed off the
nose of the fitting and re-cut more threads on that, that I
also pulled off the andair female NPT fittings (using the
4 screws), and used a tap to tap the threads slightly
deeper there too. I am not 100% sure of this as it's been
a while, but I believe that's the case. This allowed me
to thread the elbow closer and further into the valve.
It's not uncommon in dealing with some NPT stuff, so I didn't
maybe make as big a deal of it as some might. I just
prefer all my threaded fittings to fit with a few turns
holding them together. I do think those andair fittings
would be ideal if they can be used in the application though.
Also, I believe Neal had it right with the valve part number
that would be nicer to use than what I did. You guys building
later in the cycle are lucky to have such improvements. Gosh,
I almost wish I was still in the building process. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I need to weigh in on this one. I have an Andair valve installed in
> our Glastar and we did have an issue with their Female Pipe Thread
> inlets. I am installing an Andair valve in my RV-10 but with the
> following note.
>
> In the glastar, like the Rv-10, a 90 degree turn is needed after
> exiting the valve. To do this we installed 90 elbows (AN822), AN flare
> to male pipe thread. We had a terrible time getting the pipe threads
> to seal with the proper clocking of the elbows. We tried many types of
> sealant including the highly recommended Fuelube, Finally the only
> thing that seemed to work was a product called Blue-Block which is much
> more viscous than other sealants I've used and rated for gasoline. It
> worked from 1999 till our conditional inspection in Nov of 2006. I
> found that these fitting were still weeping fuel. I removed the
> fittings and changed them over to the new modular 90 degree cast AN-6
> series fittings that Andair now makes, thus completely eliminating the
> tapered pipe thread connections from the system. (now flared AN
> connections bolt right up to the Andair Valve heading in the right
> direction).
>
> The engineer in me though says, what caused these pipe threads to not
> seal? Upon inspection of the old andair female pipe thread modular
> adapters I noticed that the threads did not seem to be cut deep enough
> into the part with respect to engaging the tapered thread. I believe
> that this was causing the male pipe thread part (elbow) to bottom out
> within the Andair part instead of allowing the joint to get suitably
> tight by the tapered geometry.
>
> So the lesson in my book is to check your fittings before assembly and
> ensure they can fully engage.
>
> On my RV-10 fuel valve I am using the one with the straight extension
> and the cast 90 degree modular elbows.
>
> Bob Newman
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV flyin at Tea, SD |
Who is going to the first ANNUAL North Central RV flyin? Check out the
info on Vansairforce.net.
Dean 805HL
________________________________________________________________________
Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
You are right Tim, I had the same issue, if a builder were to use the
female NPT fittings, and try to fit in 90degree elbows on both sides the
valve assembly would be too wide to fit in the tunnel, this was the
issue I ran into and is why I then had to order the fittings Andair had
with the 90 degree already in it, you could also use the banjo fittings,
that way you would get a full 180 degrees of movement for placing the
lines exactly where you wanted them.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
You may have a point there. I *think* when I trimmed off the
nose of the fitting and re-cut more threads on that, that I
also pulled off the andair female NPT fittings (using the
4 screws), and used a tap to tap the threads slightly
deeper there too. I am not 100% sure of this as it's been
a while, but I believe that's the case. This allowed me
to thread the elbow closer and further into the valve.
It's not uncommon in dealing with some NPT stuff, so I didn't
maybe make as big a deal of it as some might. I just
prefer all my threaded fittings to fit with a few turns
holding them together. I do think those andair fittings
would be ideal if they can be used in the application though.
Also, I believe Neal had it right with the valve part number
that would be nicer to use than what I did. You guys building
later in the cycle are lucky to have such improvements. Gosh,
I almost wish I was still in the building process. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I need to weigh in on this one. I have an Andair valve installed
in
> our Glastar and we did have an issue with their Female Pipe Thread
> inlets. I am installing an Andair valve in my RV-10 but with the
> following note.
>
> In the glastar, like the Rv-10, a 90 degree turn is needed after
> exiting the valve. To do this we installed 90 elbows (AN822), AN
flare
> to male pipe thread. We had a terrible time getting the pipe threads
> to seal with the proper clocking of the elbows. We tried many types
of
> sealant including the highly recommended Fuelube, Finally the only
> thing that seemed to work was a product called Blue-Block which is
much
> more viscous than other sealants I've used and rated for gasoline. It
> worked from 1999 till our conditional inspection in Nov of 2006. I
> found that these fitting were still weeping fuel. I removed the
> fittings and changed them over to the new modular 90 degree cast AN-6
> series fittings that Andair now makes, thus completely eliminating the
> tapered pipe thread connections from the system. (now flared AN
> connections bolt right up to the Andair Valve heading in the right
> direction).
>
> The engineer in me though says, what caused these pipe threads to not
> seal? Upon inspection of the old andair female pipe thread modular
> adapters I noticed that the threads did not seem to be cut deep enough
> into the part with respect to engaging the tapered thread. I believe
> that this was causing the male pipe thread part (elbow) to bottom out
> within the Andair part instead of allowing the joint to get suitably
> tight by the tapered geometry.
>
> So the lesson in my book is to check your fittings before assembly and
> ensure they can fully engage.
>
> On my RV-10 fuel valve I am using the one with the straight extension
> and the cast 90 degree modular elbows.
>
> Bob Newman
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | RTV As a sealant |
Hi
As I work through the firewall, I noticed that the plans call for Pro-Seal
to seal the firewall recess as well as around the air vents.
Is there any issue in using RTV 732 as a sealant in this type of
application? Aside from fuel tanks, when would use of pro-seal be essential
versus something like RTV?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643
Message 14
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| Subject: | Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to show
the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
--Marc
On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
> listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to show
> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Additional Hardware / Items required for FWF Kit? |
Hello,
I ordered my TMX-IO540 and Vans FWF Kit. What else will I need to complete the
engine installation (I have already the rubber hoses replaced by Teflon ones)?
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128232#128232
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