Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:38 AM - Prop Grease (Marcus Cooper)
2. 05:36 AM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Prop Grease (Kelly McMullen)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Tim Olson)
5. 06:17 AM - Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
6. 06:58 AM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Marc Cook)
7. 07:33 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Marc Cook)
8. 07:52 AM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Pascal)
9. 08:23 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (John Jessen)
10. 08:32 AM - cowl insulation (Perry Casson-home)
11. 08:36 AM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
12. 08:46 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Deems Davis)
13. 09:13 AM - Re: Prop Grease (Scott Schmidt)
14. 09:19 AM - Re: Additional Hardware / Items required for FWF Kit? (AirMike)
15. 09:39 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
16. 10:04 AM - Re: Re: Additional Hardware / Items required for FWF Kit? (Scott Schmidt)
17. 10:25 AM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Dj Merrill)
18. 10:25 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Tim Olson)
19. 10:27 AM - Re: cowl insulation (Tim Olson)
20. 10:52 AM - Re: Prop Grease (Sam Marlow)
21. 12:44 PM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (linn Walters)
22. 03:13 PM - Re: Prop Grease (Marcus Cooper)
23. 03:58 PM - Re: Prop Grease (John Dunne)
24. 04:43 PM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (Chris)
25. 07:01 PM - Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
26. 08:44 PM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Richard Sipp)
27. 09:40 PM - Best way to trim the door? (nick@nleonard.com)
Message 1
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Does anyone have handy the guidance on greasing the Hartzell prop hub?
Specifically which grease and any application guidance beyond squirt it in
the port until it shoots everywhere?
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
Message 2
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| Subject: | Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
Thanks Tim. I was surprised when a few other friends of mine said they seen my
plane in Kit Planes and all I could think of was wow, I sent that in 15 months
ago. Anyway, now I just need to get a copy as a keep-sake.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 11:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007
After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to show
the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 3
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Most of them come with a decal specifying the grease, usually Aeroshell 6,
you remove two of the 4 zerk fittings and pump gently until grease appears
at the opposite zerk you removed (same side of hub). Do not force it at all.
You do not want grease coming out the prop blade seals..it will start a
leak.
On 8/9/07, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have handy the guidance on greasing the Hartzell prop hub?
> Specifically which grease and any application guidance beyond squirt it in
> the port until it shoots everywhere?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
What's the chance of just adding 12 pages of completions per
issue until it's caught up? Seems that there were only a
handful of completions in most of the recent issues, so I can
see why a backlog develops. But, without putting a bunch
of pages in there and just biting the bullet, I don't know
how it'll get caught up. The completions are actually the
first thing I turn to, and one of the things I like the
most about the magazine. It's great to see what and who
is flying out there. In Ray's case, he's flown to OSH 2 years
in a row before his came to print.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marc Cook wrote:
>
> Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
>
> --Marc
>
>
> On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
>> listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
>> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
>> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to show
>> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>>
>> --Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble shooting a MAG drop
I was having on my RV-10.
I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two legs without
any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up to 1900 RPM and checked
the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80 RPM while the Left dropped
120 RPM and the engine started to run rough. I leaned the crap out of it on the
ground and it got a little better, so I decided to fly the last leg anyway.
When I got back on the ground after running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked the
MAG's before shutdown, and it was still dropping and running rough on the Left
MAG.
My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped the plugs because
we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10. We also swapped the top
plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top. My plugs are all Unison UREM38E.
The plugs did not look bad at all. After doing all of this, the MAG drop
issue was gone. We flew to Osh, had a great time, and flew back and no problems
with MAG drops. Then after putting another 3 hours on the plane, the MAG
drops started on the Right MAG (notice before it was the Left MAG, but now the
plugs were switched top for bottom). Now I started asking questions and tracing
the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is what I learned.
Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the Bottom Plugs for Cylinder
#2, 4, 6.
Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom Plugs for Cylinder
#1, 3, 5.
With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had just cleaned all
the top plugs again, since originally I thought the Right MAG ran all the Top
Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then since the Right MAG also ran the
Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I cleaned them again (in an ultrasonic bath)
and they were spotless, the gap was fine. I re-installed the plugs with
new copper washers and the Right MAG was still dropping 120 RPM and running rough.
Time to go home for the day.
The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then immediately switch
to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine Monitor to see which cylinder
isn't firing. This was the trick, by starting the engine and immediately
switching to the bad MAG, it didn't let the EGT's get very hot while the key-switch
was on BOTH after starting. Now I observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders
were at 1200 degrees and climbing while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600 degrees
and dropping (because this Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I change it out and
my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked at the plug again, and most
people I showed it to couldn't see anything wrong with it, but the porclin
insulator inside the plug had a black residue (about the size of a pencil eraser
end) on the wall about half way down. This plug was arcing across from the
spring to the outer shell through the insulator instead of at the tip of the
plug.
I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what Plugs and that having
an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT is an awesome troubleshooting
tool as well. Anyway I thought I would share this with others that may
not have grown up with these Engines either.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (Hobbs=295)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
Interesting thought. Not sure I want to give up two or three full
features, but I agree we need to work down that backlog faster than
we have been. Part of the problem--and this will be familiar to
anyone who has been in the magazine biz--is that Completions acts as
an accordion section for us. When we receive last-minute ads, it's
one of the places that can accommodate them easily. We have one or
two other places for straggler ads but they're further forward in the
book, and can require us to move a bunch of pages forward to make the
change.
How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are
much more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see
your project on the page? You tell me.
--Marc
do not archive
On Aug 9, 2007, at 6:11 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> What's the chance of just adding 12 pages of completions per
> issue until it's caught up? Seems that there were only a
> handful of completions in most of the recent issues, so I can
> see why a backlog develops. But, without putting a bunch
> of pages in there and just biting the bullet, I don't know
> how it'll get caught up. The completions are actually the
> first thing I turn to, and one of the things I like the
> most about the magazine. It's great to see what and who
> is flying out there. In Ray's case, he's flown to OSH 2 years
> in a row before his came to print.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Marc Cook wrote:
>> Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
>> --Marc
>> On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's
>>> completion listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just
>>> print the
>>> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
>>> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to
>>> show
>>> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>>>
>>> --Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Great post. In fact, I don't really watch the actual mag drop in rpm
anymore, but instead just look for each cylinder's EGT to rise during
one-mag operation. That tells me 98% of what I want to know.
--Marc
do not archive
On Aug 9, 2007, at 6:16 AM, Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble
> shooting a MAG drop I was having on my RV-10.
>
> [snip]
>
> The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then
> immediately switch to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon
> Engine Monitor to see which cylinder isn't firing. This was the
> trick, by starting the engine and immediately switching to the bad
> MAG, it didn't let the EGT's get very hot while the key-switch was
> on BOTH after starting. Now I observed the EGT of 5 of the
> cylinders were at 1200 degrees and climbing while my number #2
> Cylinder was at 600 degrees and dropping (because this Clyinder was
> not firing when only on one MAG).
>
> Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I change
> it out and my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked at
> the plug again, and most people I showed it to couldn't see
> anything wrong with it, but the porclin insulator inside the plug
> had a black residue (about the size of a pencil eraser end) on the
> wall about half way down. This plug was arcing across from the
> spring to the outer shell through the insulator instead of at the
> tip of the plug.
>
> I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what Plugs
> and that having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT
> is an awesome troubleshooting tool as well. Anyway I thought I
> would share this with others that may not have grown up with these
> Engines either.
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> N519RV (Hobbs=295)
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
> feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are much
> more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see your
> project on the page? You tell me.
I personally think having it in a magazine will get more exposure, by
default, versus the web.. the web one would need to login, look for
completions, versus the magazine; one is already looking through it and
"completions" is another section one goes through. Also many of your readers
don't use the web.
Magazine is a better option but that shouldn't stop the feature being added
to the webpage as well.
Thanks for the question
Pascal
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Cook" <marc@kitplanes.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007
>
> Interesting thought. Not sure I want to give up two or three full
> features, but I agree we need to work down that backlog faster than we
> have been. Part of the problem--and this will be familiar to anyone who
> has been in the magazine biz--is that Completions acts as an accordion
> section for us. When we receive last-minute ads, it's one of the places
> that can accommodate them easily. We have one or two other places for
> straggler ads but they're further forward in the book, and can require us
> to move a bunch of pages forward to make the change.
>
> How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
> feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are much
> more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see your
> project on the page? You tell me.
>
> --Marc
> do not archive
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2007, at 6:11 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> What's the chance of just adding 12 pages of completions per
>> issue until it's caught up? Seems that there were only a
>> handful of completions in most of the recent issues, so I can
>> see why a backlog develops. But, without putting a bunch
>> of pages in there and just biting the bullet, I don't know
>> how it'll get caught up. The completions are actually the
>> first thing I turn to, and one of the things I like the
>> most about the magazine. It's great to see what and who
>> is flying out there. In Ray's case, he's flown to OSH 2 years
>> in a row before his came to print.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Marc Cook wrote:
>>> Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
>>> --Marc
>>> On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
>>>> listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
>>>> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
>>>> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to show
>>>> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> --Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Nice post, Ray, and nice sleuthing.
John J #40328
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 6:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble
shooting a MAG drop I was having on my RV-10.
I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two
legs without any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up to
1900 RPM and checked the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80 RPM
while the Left dropped 120 RPM and the engine started to run rough. I
leaned the crap out of it on the ground and it got a little better, so I
decided to fly the last leg anyway. When I got back on the ground after
running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked the MAG's before shutdown, and it was
still dropping and running rough on the Left MAG.
My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped the
plugs because we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10. We also
swapped the top plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top. My plugs are
all Unison UREM38E. The plugs did not look bad at all. After doing all of
this, the MAG drop issue was gone. We flew to Osh, had a great time, and
flew back and no problems with MAG drops. Then after putting another 3
hours on the plane, the MAG drops started on the Right MAG (notice before it
was the Left MAG, but now the plugs were switched top for bottom). Now I
started asking questions and tracing the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is
what I learned.
Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the Bottom
Plugs for Cylinder #2, 4, 6.
Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom
Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5.
With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had just
cleaned all the top plugs again, since originally I thought the Right MAG
ran all the Top Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then since the
Right MAG also ran the Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I cleaned them
again (in an ultrasonic bath) and they were spotless, the gap was fine. I
re-installed the plugs with new copper washers and the Right MAG was still
dropping 120 RPM and running rough. Time to go home for the day.
The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then
immediately switch to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine
Monitor to see which cylinder isn't firing. This was the trick, by starting
the engine and immediately switching to the bad MAG, it didn't let the EGT's
get very hot while the key-switch was on BOTH after starting. Now I
observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders were at 1200 degrees and climbing
while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600 degrees and dropping (because this
Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I change
it out and my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked at the plug
again, and most people I showed it to couldn't see anything wrong with it,
but the porclin insulator inside the plug had a black residue (about the
size of a pencil eraser end) on the wall about half way down. This plug was
arcing across from the spring to the outer shell through the insulator
instead of at the tip of the plug.
I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what Plugs
and that having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT is an
awesome troubleshooting tool as well. Anyway I thought I would share this
with others that may not have grown up with these Engines either.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (Hobbs=295)
Message 10
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Hi All,
Before I run the engine with the cowling on I'm looking for ideas on how much thermal
protection you
guys have or wish you had put on the lower cowling to keep the exhaust heat from
blistering the
paint.
On the last airplane I used this stuff
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/mufflerheatshieldkit.php glued on with hi-temp silicon
and it worked real well.
Perry Casson - getting ready for final inspection
Regina Canada
http://casson.2y.net/rv-10
Message 11
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| Subject: | Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
I like the idea of both, but always look at the completion section in
the paper copy. I look forward to not just the RV's being completed but
all of the other interesting projects that are out there being built.
This is how I made the determination of the kit company, by the number
of actual planes being completed, of course Vans always shows up in
there the most, but several other companies are now being represented
and I would not have known about them without seeing them listed in that
section.
I know we all like the web and how it is becoming ubiquitous for all the
information we need, but there is still something really cool about
seeing friends plans show up in a paper magazine.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007
How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
> feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are
much
> more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see your
> project on the page? You tell me.
I personally think having it in a magazine will get more exposure, by
default, versus the web.. the web one would need to login, look for
completions, versus the magazine; one is already looking through it and
"completions" is another section one goes through. Also many of your
readers
don't use the web.
Magazine is a better option but that shouldn't stop the feature being
added
to the webpage as well.
Thanks for the question
Pascal
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Cook" <marc@kitplanes.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007
>
> Interesting thought. Not sure I want to give up two or three full
> features, but I agree we need to work down that backlog faster than
we
> have been. Part of the problem--and this will be familiar to anyone
who
> has been in the magazine biz--is that Completions acts as an
accordion
> section for us. When we receive last-minute ads, it's one of the
places
> that can accommodate them easily. We have one or two other places for
> straggler ads but they're further forward in the book, and can
require us
> to move a bunch of pages forward to make the change.
>
> How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
> feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are
much
> more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see your
> project on the page? You tell me.
>
> --Marc
> do not archive
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2007, at 6:11 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> What's the chance of just adding 12 pages of completions per
>> issue until it's caught up? Seems that there were only a
>> handful of completions in most of the recent issues, so I can
>> see why a backlog develops. But, without putting a bunch
>> of pages in there and just biting the bullet, I don't know
>> how it'll get caught up. The completions are actually the
>> first thing I turn to, and one of the things I like the
>> most about the magazine. It's great to see what and who
>> is flying out there. In Ray's case, he's flown to OSH 2 years
>> in a row before his came to print.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Marc Cook wrote:
>>> Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
>>> --Marc
>>> On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
>>>> listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
>>>> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but
they
>>>> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to
show
>>>> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> --Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
I love hearing about these type of events! THANKS for taking the time to
post this. For me it was very educational and well within the context
and framework of what I've come to hope for and expect from the RV10
community. GOOD Job !. For most of us still building, the events that
can/will occur when flying are still unknown, and tips and experience
like this related goes a long way to keeping the 'fleet' healthy.
Deems Davis
#406
:"it;s all done.... just not put together yet!"
of keeping us a
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
> Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble shooting a MAG
drop I was having on my RV-10.
>
> I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two legs without
any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up to 1900 RPM and checked
the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80 RPM while the Left dropped
120 RPM and the engine started to run rough. I leaned the crap out of it on
the ground and it got a little better, so I decided to fly the last leg anyway.
When I got back on the ground after running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked
the MAG's before shutdown, and it was still dropping and running rough on the
Left MAG.
>
> My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped the plugs because
we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10. We also swapped the
top plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top. My plugs are all Unison UREM38E.
The plugs did not look bad at all. After doing all of this, the MAG
drop issue was gone. We flew to Osh, had a great time, and flew back and no problems
with MAG drops. Then after putting another 3 hours on the plane, the
MAG drops started on the Right MAG (notice before it was the Left MAG, but now
the plugs were switched top for bottom). Now I started asking questions and
tracing the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is what I learned.
>
> Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the Bottom Plugs for
Cylinder #2, 4, 6.
>
> Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom Plugs for Cylinder
#1, 3, 5.
>
> With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had just cleaned all
the top plugs again, since originally I thought the Right MAG ran all the Top
Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then since the Right MAG also ran
the Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I cleaned them again (in an ultrasonic
bath) and they were spotless, the gap was fine. I re-installed the plugs with
new copper washers and the Right MAG was still dropping 120 RPM and running
rough. Time to go home for the day.
>
> The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then immediately switch
to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine Monitor to see which cylinder
isn't firing. This was the trick, by starting the engine and immediately
switching to the bad MAG, it didn't let the EGT's get very hot while the key-switch
was on BOTH after starting. Now I observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders
were at 1200 degrees and climbing while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600
degrees and dropping (because this Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
>
> Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I change it out and
my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked at the plug again, and
most people I showed it to couldn't see anything wrong with it, but the porclin
insulator inside the plug had a black residue (about the size of a pencil eraser
end) on the wall about half way down. This plug was arcing across from
the spring to the outer shell through the insulator instead of at the tip of the
plug.
>
> I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what Plugs and that
having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT is an awesome troubleshooting
tool as well. Anyway I thought I would share this with others that
may not have grown up with these Engines either.
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> N519RV (Hobbs=295)
>
>
>
Message 13
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I don't have my manual with me but I do know it calls to insert the grease
from one side (leading edge or trailing edge of prop blade). =0ANot sure i
f that makes a big difference but you might as well follow the directions e
xactly. Can someone verify that? =0A =0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt@yaho
o.com=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot
2@gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, August 9, 2007
5:53:01 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Grease=0A=0AMost of them come wi
th a decal specifying the grease, usually Aeroshell 6, you remove two of th
e 4 zerk fittings and pump gently until grease appears at the opposite zerk
you removed (same side of hub). Do not force it at all. You do not want gr
ease coming out the prop blade seals..it will start a leak. =0A=0A=0AOn 8/9
/07, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:=0A--> RV10-List message pos
ted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@cableone.net>=0A=0ADoes anyone have handy t
he guidance on greasing the Hartzell prop hub?=0ASpecifically which grease
================
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Additional Hardware / Items required for FWF Kit? |
I am at the same point as Michael W. Ordered same pkg. I think that I will delete
the Oil Cooler from the FWF kit from Vans ($260 credt) and get the Airflow
Oil Cooler. I am in Nevada and hope that the Airflow unit keeps the oil temps
lower. Any experience out there with the airflow in hot climates. How bout a bit
of help on what else we might need????
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128286#128286
Message 15
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Ray
Great write up and outstanding technical troubleshooting. These types of
stories should be collected and archived so that we all can learn from
each others experiences. I have heard many people having this same
problem and spending large amounts of money to get it corrected. Nice,
easy and well thought out solution.
THX for sharing
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 9:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble
shooting a MAG drop I was having on my RV-10.
I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two
legs without any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up
to 1900 RPM and checked the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80
RPM while the Left dropped 120 RPM and the engine started to run rough.
I leaned the crap out of it on the ground and it got a little better, so
I decided to fly the last leg anyway. When I got back on the ground
after running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked the MAG's before shutdown,
and it was still dropping and running rough on the Left MAG.
My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped
the plugs because we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10.
We also swapped the top plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top.
My plugs are all Unison UREM38E. The plugs did not look bad at all.
After doing all of this, the MAG drop issue was gone. We flew to Osh,
had a great time, and flew back and no problems with MAG drops. Then
after putting another 3 hours on the plane, the MAG drops started on the
Right MAG (notice before it was the Left MAG, but now the plugs were
switched top for bottom). Now I started asking questions and tracing
the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is what I learned.
Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the
Bottom Plugs for Cylinder #2, 4, 6.
Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom
Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5.
With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had
just cleaned all the top plugs again, since originally I thought the
Right MAG ran all the Top Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then
since the Right MAG also ran the Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I
cleaned them again (in an ultrasonic bath) and they were spotless, the
gap was fine. I re-installed the plugs with new copper washers and the
Right MAG was still dropping 120 RPM and running rough. Time to go home
for the day.
The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then
immediately switch to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine
Monitor to see which cylinder isn't firing. This was the trick, by
starting the engine and immediately switching to the bad MAG, it didn't
let the EGT's get very hot while the key-switch was on BOTH after
starting. Now I observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders were at 1200
degrees and climbing while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600 degrees and
dropping (because this Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I
change it out and my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked
at the plug again, and most people I showed it to couldn't see anything
wrong with it, but the porclin insulator inside the plug had a black
residue (about the size of a pencil eraser end) on the wall about half
way down. This plug was arcing across from the spring to the outer
shell through the insulator instead of at the tip of the plug.
I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what
Plugs and that having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT
is an awesome troubleshooting tool as well. Anyway I thought I would
share this with others that may not have grown up with these Engines
either.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (Hobbs=295)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Additional Hardware / Items required for FWF Kit? |
Here are a few additional items I purchased for the FWF. =0A I ordered 6 of
the eyeball devices http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballf
w.php for the prop, throttle and mixture control as well as my electronic i
gnition. =0AI then ordered 2 or 3 of these for taking wires through the fi
rewall. Just order the largest if you use them.They are expensive but they
are nice. http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html=0AI also upgraded my he
ater vents the stainless version http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html=0A
=0AHere is a shot of the eyeball devices I used. =0Ahttp://www.scottandran
ae.smugmug.com/gallery/518426#53556340=0A =0AYou mainly just have to consid
er the things you are going to put on the firewall to get all the wires and
cables through. =0A =0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
Marc Cook wrote:
> How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community
> here--feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are
> much more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see your
> project on the page? You tell me.
Definitely prefer to keep it in the magazine. Also having it on the
web is a great idea!
Thanks,
-Dj
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Awesome that you took the time to write that up Ray, you did just great
on your troubleshooting.
What I've learned over the past years is that the RPM drop is usually
(not always) pretty irrelevant to the run-up, but more importantly
that you're getting near normal RPM's, and that it runs smooth, and
especially that you don't see any cylinders dropping in EGT with the
mag off.
You're absolutely correct that on a 2-mag system the system is wired
so that the plugs are split top and bottom across the mags, so it isn't
as simple as Right mag on top, Left on bottom, or vice versa...it's all
mixed up as you listed below. But, for those of us who have Lightspeed
ignitions, normally we're set up so that the top plugs are the
automotive plugs, and those are run by the Right mag (which is actually
the LSE), so the Left mag runs all the bottom plugs. It's perhaps
a simpler layout, but either should be easy to troubleshoot.
Your plug failure was one of those fairly rare occurances, but proves
that you must inspect the entire plug. It would be interesting to
hear if you've ever dropped the plug, because I've heard that if you
drop an aviation plug, you are best off just throwing it away. (not
insinuating that you did, just illustrating how important it is for
everyone to be careful with your plugs) The most common failure I've
seen (not on my RV-10) is to see a pile of crusty lava looking gunk
in the lower plugs, down at the base of the insulator. All that
fouling eventually piles up until it shorts or runs bad. It should
be fully cleaned out perhaps every 50-100 hours when you yank the
plugs. (Tip: Buy the el-cheapo Harbor freight spark plug bead-blasting
cleaner and it works great after you chip some of the stuff manually)
My most recent troubleshooting was when a nice young lady (it's
always nice to help those. ;) ) came to our airport and after
parking all day, had a rough running engine. Nobody was around
at the FBO to help, and she got on the cell phone (constantly) to
call the people back at her flying club or FBO for advice.
I told her I could help troubleshoot the glass-cockpit equipped
piper and bet we could find the problem quickly. All I had to
do was have her run it up and do a mag drop. When she selected
one of the mags, the EGT on one cylinder dropped way down to
nothing....ah ha, then you know the plug and the mag, right away.
Although those on the phone were unsure they should trust
a goofy looking chubby bald guy with their plane, she let me
pull the plug and we found just a tiny salt-grain sized piece
of stuff between the center and side electrodes. I cleaned the
plug thoroughly, put on a new gasket and anti-seize, and it
was installed and running great in minutes and she and the
club was very greatful when she arrived safely home.
The moral of the story is, we have a HUGE benefit over our
normal certificated brothers in that we can install some of
the nicest engine monitoring equipment around, that would cost
a lot for them to install. Using that equipment makes
troubleshooting such problems a breeze. Also, in reading a
recent article about TAA (Technically Advanced Aircraft) it was
stated that one area where TAA's have virtually dropped a common
problem out of existence is fuel starvation problems, all because
of the fuel totalizer and integrated flight range displays.
Anyway, sorry for being long, but you did a great job identifying
the issues and opened the door to educating a lot of people,
so that's a great story for you to share.
PS: Always carry a spare plug (I carry one of each type).
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
> Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble shooting a MAG
drop I was having on my RV-10.
>
> I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two legs without
any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up to 1900 RPM and checked
the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80 RPM while the Left dropped
120 RPM and the engine started to run rough. I leaned the crap out of it on
the ground and it got a little better, so I decided to fly the last leg anyway.
When I got back on the ground after running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked
the MAG's before shutdown, and it was still dropping and running rough on the
Left MAG.
>
> My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped the plugs because
we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10. We also swapped the
top plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top. My plugs are all Unison UREM38E.
The plugs did not look bad at all. After doing all of this, the MAG
drop issue was gone. We flew to Osh, had a great time, and flew back and no problems
with MAG drops. Then after putting another 3 hours on the plane, the
MAG drops started on the Right MAG (notice before it was the Left MAG, but now
the plugs were switched top for bottom). Now I started asking questions and
tracing the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is what I learned.
>
> Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the Bottom Plugs for
Cylinder #2, 4, 6.
>
> Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom Plugs for Cylinder
#1, 3, 5.
>
> With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had just cleaned all
the top plugs again, since originally I thought the Right MAG ran all the Top
Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then since the Right MAG also ran
the Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I cleaned them again (in an ultrasonic
bath) and they were spotless, the gap was fine. I re-installed the plugs with
new copper washers and the Right MAG was still dropping 120 RPM and running
rough. Time to go home for the day.
>
> The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then immediately switch
to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine Monitor to see which cylinder
isn't firing. This was the trick, by starting the engine and immediately
switching to the bad MAG, it didn't let the EGT's get very hot while the key-switch
was on BOTH after starting. Now I observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders
were at 1200 degrees and climbing while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600
degrees and dropping (because this Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
>
> Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I change it out and
my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked at the plug again, and
most people I showed it to couldn't see anything wrong with it, but the porclin
insulator inside the plug had a black residue (about the size of a pencil eraser
end) on the wall about half way down. This plug was arcing across from
the spring to the outer shell through the insulator instead of at the tip of the
plug.
>
> I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what Plugs and that
having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT is an awesome troubleshooting
tool as well. Anyway I thought I would share this with others that
may not have grown up with these Engines either.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> N519RV (Hobbs=295)
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: cowl insulation |
Van's sells some good self-stick aluminum foil that is great for lining
the lower cowl with. No paint blisters. Also, it's a good idea to
thin out some epoxy and brush it on the lower cowl to fill all the
voids and areas where oils can absorb. This also leaves a good surface
for the self-stick to adhere.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Perry Casson-home wrote:
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Before I run the engine with the cowling on Im looking for ideas on how
> much thermal protection you guys have or wish you had put on the lower
> cowling to keep the exhaust heat from blistering the paint.
>
>
>
> On the last airplane I used this stuff
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/mufflerheatshieldkit.php
> glued on with hi-temp silicon and it worked real well.
>
>
>
> Perry Casson - getting ready for final inspection
>
> Regina Canada
>
> http://casson.2y.net/rv-10
>
Message 20
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|
I just talked to the factory a couple of weeks ago, they said 1oz, from
front to back, per side per /year! /Grease type is Shell as specified in
the manual.
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Does anyone have handy the guidance on greasing the Hartzell prop hub?
> Specifically which grease and any application guidance beyond squirt it in
> the port until it shoots everywhere?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
This is a common failure mode for plugs that got dropped. I got some
advice on what to do with dropped plugs. If you drop a plug, pick it up
and drop it again ...... real hard ...... and then trash it. Don't
re-use a plug that's been dropped. I don't anymore.
Linn
do not archive
>--> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble
>shooting a MAG drop I was having on my RV-10.
>
> I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two
>legs without any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up to
>1900 RPM and checked the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80 RPM
>while the Left dropped 120 RPM and the engine started to run rough. I
>leaned the crap out of it on the ground and it got a little better, so I
>decided to fly the last leg anyway. When I got back on the ground after
>running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked the MAG's before shutdown, and it was
>still dropping and running rough on the Left MAG.
>
> My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped the
>plugs because we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10. We also
>swapped the top plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top. My plugs are
>all Unison UREM38E. The plugs did not look bad at all. After doing all of
>this, the MAG drop issue was gone. We flew to Osh, had a great time, and
>flew back and no problems with MAG drops. Then after putting another 3
>hours on the plane, the MAG drops started on the Right MAG (notice before it
>was the Left MAG, but now the plugs were switched top for bottom). Now I
>started asking questions and tracing the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is
>what I learned.
>
> Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the Bottom
>Plugs for Cylinder #2, 4, 6.
>
> Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom
>Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5.
>
> With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had just
>cleaned all the top plugs again, since originally I thought the Right MAG
>ran all the Top Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then since the
>Right MAG also ran the Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I cleaned them
>again (in an ultrasonic bath) and they were spotless, the gap was fine. I
>re-installed the plugs with new copper washers and the Right MAG was still
>dropping 120 RPM and running rough. Time to go home for the day.
>
> The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then
>immediately switch to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine
>Monitor to see which cylinder isn't firing. This was the trick, by starting
>the engine and immediately switching to the bad MAG, it didn't let the EGT's
>get very hot while the key-switch was on BOTH after starting. Now I
>observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders were at 1200 degrees and climbing
>while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600 degrees and dropping (because this
>Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
>
> Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I change
>it out and my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked at the plug
>again, and most people I showed it to couldn't see anything wrong with it,
>but the porclin insulator inside the plug had a black residue (about the
>size of a pencil eraser end) on the wall about half way down. This plug was
>arcing across from the spring to the outer shell through the insulator
>instead of at the tip of the plug.
>
> I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what Plugs
>and that having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT is an
>awesome troubleshooting tool as well. Anyway I thought I would share this
>with others that may not have grown up with these Engines either.
>
>
>Thank You
>Ray Doerr
>40250
>N519RV (Hobbs=295)
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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Thanks for all the responses, great information from everyone. For anyone
else that may need it, I found the Hartzell service letter on this and have
attached it.
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Grease
Most of them come with a decal specifying the grease, usually Aeroshell 6,
you remove two of the 4 zerk fittings and pump gently until grease appears
at the opposite zerk you removed (same side of hub). Do not force it at all.
You do not want grease coming out the prop blade seals..it will start a
leak.
On 8/9/07, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
Does anyone have handy the guidance on greasing the Hartzell prop hub?
Specifically which grease and any application guidance beyond squirt it in
Message 23
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|
An important thing is. don't try to purge the old grease with new grease by
continually pumping grease through to the opposite side. This will
invariably go over the back of the bearing and start filling the hub.
Vibration and pesky leaks will follow. I have attached the volume from the
Hartzell standard practices concerning current practice and some other
detail for balance and storage.
John 40315
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Friday, 10 August 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prop Grease
Thanks for all the responses, great information from everyone. For anyone
else that may need it, I found the Hartzell service letter on this and have
attached it.
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Grease
Most of them come with a decal specifying the grease, usually Aeroshell 6,
you remove two of the 4 zerk fittings and pump gently until grease appears
at the opposite zerk you removed (same side of hub). Do not force it at all.
You do not want grease coming out the prop blade seals..it will start a
leak.
On 8/9/07, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
Does anyone have handy the guidance on greasing the Hartzell prop hub?
Specifically which grease and any application guidance beyond squirt it in
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
Nothing beats being "published" in the real world. Nothing like holding the
pages in ones hand.
How about a special issue dedicated to completions and expanded coverage of
some personal stories, and include everybody up till now that has not been
published.
Oh, and thanks to all on the Andair valve discussion!
-Chris Lucas
#40072 coming up on 4 years (as of 10/2007) of slowly but surely
construction. Maybe I'll see my picture in a 2009 issue.
Why hurry its the road not the destination.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Cook" <marc@kitplanes.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007
>
> Interesting thought. Not sure I want to give up two or three full
> features, but I agree we need to work down that backlog faster than we
> have been. Part of the problem--and this will be familiar to anyone who
> has been in the magazine biz--is that Completions acts as an accordion
> section for us. When we receive last-minute ads, it's one of the places
> that can accommodate them easily. We have one or two other places for
> straggler ads but they're further forward in the book, and can require us
> to move a bunch of pages forward to make the change.
>
> How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
> feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are much
> more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see your
> project on the page? You tell me.
>
> --Marc
> do not archive
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2007, at 6:11 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> What's the chance of just adding 12 pages of completions per
>> issue until it's caught up? Seems that there were only a
>> handful of completions in most of the recent issues, so I can
>> see why a backlog develops. But, without putting a bunch
>> of pages in there and just biting the bullet, I don't know
>> how it'll get caught up. The completions are actually the
>> first thing I turn to, and one of the things I like the
>> most about the magazine. It's great to see what and who
>> is flying out there. In Ray's case, he's flown to OSH 2 years
>> in a row before his came to print.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Marc Cook wrote:
>>> Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
>>> --Marc
>>> On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's completion
>>>> listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just print the
>>>> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
>>>> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to show
>>>> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> --Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007 |
While it's always interesting to see what is being completed and by who, if it
gives us another feature per issue I wouldn't mind going to the website to see
completions. Now if it makes space for more ads, no thanks.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc Cook
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Congrats to Ray - Kitplanes Sept 2007
Interesting thought. Not sure I want to give up two or three full
features, but I agree we need to work down that backlog faster than
we have been. Part of the problem--and this will be familiar to
anyone who has been in the magazine biz--is that Completions acts as
an accordion section for us. When we receive last-minute ads, it's
one of the places that can accommodate them easily. We have one or
two other places for straggler ads but they're further forward in the
book, and can require us to move a bunch of pages forward to make the
change.
How would you--and, for that matter, the rest of the community here--
feel about this feature going to the web so that these entries are
much more real time? Or is it just that much cooler to actually see
your project on the page? You tell me.
--Marc
do not archive
On Aug 9, 2007, at 6:11 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> What's the chance of just adding 12 pages of completions per
> issue until it's caught up? Seems that there were only a
> handful of completions in most of the recent issues, so I can
> see why a backlog develops. But, without putting a bunch
> of pages in there and just biting the bullet, I don't know
> how it'll get caught up. The completions are actually the
> first thing I turn to, and one of the things I like the
> most about the magazine. It's great to see what and who
> is flying out there. In Ray's case, he's flown to OSH 2 years
> in a row before his came to print.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Marc Cook wrote:
>> Well, we're working down quite a backlog...but we're getting there.
>> --Marc
>> On Aug 8, 2007, at 9:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> After months and months of waiting, we get to see Ray's
>>> completion listing in Sept 2007 Kitplanes. Why they can't just
>>> print the
>>> completions as they come and get them out I may never know, but they
>>> eventually get to them. Anyway, it's a proud moment to be able to
>>> show
>>> the non-net world your photo Ray. Enjoy!
>>>
>>> --Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Good job Ray,
On the old RV-4, my standard practice was to switch the engine monitor to
the expanded/normalized EGT mode for the runup and mag check. Normal
indication on ether single mag by itself would be a relatively uniform rise
in all EGTs due to slower combustion process with one ignition source. Any
abnormal cylinder becomes readily apparent.
With a single electronic ignition, the change will not be as dramatic but
should still register.
Dick Sipp
RV10 N110DV
Message 27
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| Subject: | Best way to trim the door? |
For those of you that have already fitted the doors to the frame, what did you
do to get a good (45 degree?) angle on the door frame. Did anybody try to route
it? Trying to do it with a hand tool seems a little rough or does that work
well enough?
I could use some good suggestions here before I mess things up.
Thanks,
Nick (40015, finish)
Sacramento, CA
nick@nleonard.com
916-425-1064
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128420#128420
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