Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:32 AM - Re: Best way to trim the door? (Tim Olson)
2. 09:07 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (KiloPapa)
3. 09:52 AM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (John W. Cox)
4. 10:23 AM - Seat Frames - Group buy update (James, Peter [SD])
5. 11:05 AM - Re: Seat Frames - Group buy update (Tim Olson)
6. 12:14 PM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (ddddsp1@juno.com)
7. 12:34 PM - Re: Seat Frames - Group buy update (David McNeill)
8. 01:49 PM - Re: RTV As a sealant (Vernon Smith)
9. 02:18 PM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (John W. Cox)
10. 02:29 PM - Re: RTV As a sealant (John W. Cox)
11. 04:31 PM - Re: Seat Frames - Group buy update (Marcus Cooper)
12. 07:49 PM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Mike Kraus)
13. 08:23 PM - Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. (Kelly McMullen)
14. 11:53 PM - Re: RTV As a sealant (Les Kearney)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to trim the door? |
A file works well for that.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
nick@nleonard.com wrote:
>
> For those of you that have already fitted the doors to the frame, what did you
do to get a good (45 degree?) angle on the door frame. Did anybody try to route
it? Trying to do it with a hand tool seems a little rough or does that work
well enough?
>
> I could use some good suggestions here before I mess things up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick (40015, finish)
> Sacramento, CA
> nick@nleonard.com
> 916-425-1064
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128420#128420
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Very nice write-up. Thanks.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 6:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble shooting a
> MAG drop I was having on my RV-10.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Excellent post on the problem, troubleshooting and eventual solution.
Everyone should remember the little ditty from Champion at OSH and that
I first learned in A&P school. "Drop it Once, Drop it twice!" The
second time into the trash.
These plugs are expensive and there is a desire to shrug off the slight
shock which can contribute to a cracked insulator. Your's was probably
not from handling, installation or shipping, just bad luck.
The second point is that the copper crush rings should be installed New
each time. Being cheap, many mechanics will recycle them which Champion
says creates a 0.004" movement of the plug deeper into the combustion
chamber. Cracked heads are more expensive than the crush rings.
Fly Often, Fly Safe, Live Long
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 6:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Guys, I just wanted to share my recent experience of trouble
shooting a MAG drop I was having on my RV-10.
I was flying back from my Canada trip and finished the first two
legs without any issue. On my final leg I did the usual engine run-up
to 1900 RPM and checked the MAG's. Right side dropped the usual 60-80
RPM while the Left dropped 120 RPM and the engine started to run rough.
I leaned the crap out of it on the ground and it got a little better, so
I decided to fly the last leg anyway. When I got back on the ground
after running it for 2 hours LOP, I checked the MAG's before shutdown,
and it was still dropping and running rough on the Left MAG.
My friend, Brian Reiter came over and we pulled/cleaned/gapped
the plugs because we were heading to Oshkosh the next day in the RV10.
We also swapped the top plugs to the bottom and the bottom to the top.
My plugs are all Unison UREM38E. The plugs did not look bad at all.
After doing all of this, the MAG drop issue was gone. We flew to Osh,
had a great time, and flew back and no problems with MAG drops. Then
after putting another 3 hours on the plane, the MAG drops started on the
Right MAG (notice before it was the Left MAG, but now the plugs were
switched top for bottom). Now I started asking questions and tracing
the MAG wires to the Plugs and this is what I learned.
Right MAG runs the Top Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5 and the
Bottom Plugs for Cylinder #2, 4, 6.
Left MAG runs the Top Plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6 and the Bottom
Plugs for Cylinder #1, 3, 5.
With this info, I knew which ones to start looking at. I had
just cleaned all the top plugs again, since originally I thought the
Right MAG ran all the Top Plugs (NOT), and they were all spotless. Then
since the Right MAG also ran the Bottom plugs of Cylinder #2, 4, 6, I
cleaned them again (in an ultrasonic bath) and they were spotless, the
gap was fine. I re-installed the plugs with new copper washers and the
Right MAG was still dropping 120 RPM and running rough. Time to go home
for the day.
The next evening, I thought why not start the engine, then
immediately switch to the right MAG and watch the Temps on Dynon Engine
Monitor to see which cylinder isn't firing. This was the trick, by
starting the engine and immediately switching to the bad MAG, it didn't
let the EGT's get very hot while the key-switch was on BOTH after
starting. Now I observed the EGT of 5 of the cylinders were at 1200
degrees and climbing while my number #2 Cylinder was at 600 degrees and
dropping (because this Clyinder was not firing when only on one MAG).
Now that I knew #2 Bottom Plug was bad (285 hours on it), I
change it out and my problem was resolved. I then went back and looked
at the plug again, and most people I showed it to couldn't see anything
wrong with it, but the porclin insulator inside the plug had a black
residue (about the size of a pencil eraser end) on the wall about half
way down. This plug was arcing across from the spring to the outer
shell through the insulator instead of at the tip of the plug.
I learned a lot during all of this, like which MAG runs what
Plugs and that having an Engine Monitor on all Cylinders for CHT and EGT
is an awesome troubleshooting tool as well. Anyway I thought I would
share this with others that may not have grown up with these Engines
either.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (Hobbs=295)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Seat Frames - Group buy update |
Hello,
Just before OSH, I posted a note to let people know that I had had high
back seat frames made for my RV-10. I didn't get pictures posted before
the show.... but we did have the frames at the Cleveland Tool both at
AirVenture. Many came by to look, but only one actual order was placed.
What surprised me most was how many 6, 7, and 9 drivers were
interested in having high seat backs in their planes.
Cleveland has now posted pictures of the frames inside my fuselage on
their website. They can be seen at:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK
We are now trying to make a decision whether to make an actual
production run, or to abandon the project... Take a look and let Mike
at Cleveland know if you are interested. He marked down the price a bit
in hopes that this will get the ball rolling. I think the finished
product is going to be great. Take a look.. let me know what you think.
There was some concern about weight, but with the -10 being so nose
heavy, a bit of weight this far back isn't necessarily a bad thing.
All comments are welcome.... good or bad.
pete james <mailto:petejames@sprint.com> #40100, 90% done, 90% to go.
RVPilot at MCHSI dot COM
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Seat Frames - Group buy update |
The downside I can see is that you completely lose access to reaching
through to the baggage area, and with tall seats, it makes it very
inconvenient if you need to get back there. (My pi$$ bottle for
one is back there. ;) )
For those at OSH that got the chance to see my rear seats, Abby
has figured a way to add a modular setup to the rear seats, so
that you can choose from a low seat-gap filler, a low filler
with cupholders, or a higher armrest, and then between the seat
backs is another filler that can be inserted that is also
independently tippable. So for those who only occasionally
require a bench, or 3rd seat, this is a convenient option.
The other thing that is hard to get past with any bench options is,
how exactly does the builder intend to move the existing seat belt
anchor points, and come up with 6 more points that can be used for
mounting seat belts, while still giving enough room to belt in
a normal sized adult? That's why from her thoughts, she decided
to go with a simple, cheap, and effective modular and
removable concept.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James, Peter [SD] wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Just before OSH, I posted a note to let people know that I had had high
> back seat frames made for my RV-10. I didn't get pictures posted before
> the show.... but we did have the frames at the Cleveland Tool both at
> AirVenture. Many came by to look, but only one actual order was
> placed. What surprised me most was how many 6, 7, and 9 drivers were
> interested in having high seat backs in their planes.
>
> Cleveland has now posted pictures of the frames inside my fuselage on
> their website. They can be seen at:
>
> http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK
> <http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK >
>
> We are now trying to make a decision whether to make an actual
> production run, or to abandon the project... Take a look and let Mike
> at Cleveland know if you are interested. He marked down the price a bit
> in hopes that this will get the ball rolling. I think the finished
> product is going to be great. Take a look.. let me know what you
> think. There was some concern about weight, but with the -10 being so
> nose heavy, a bit of weight this far back isn't necessarily a bad thing.
>
> All comments are welcome.... good or bad.
>
> pete james <mailto:petejames@sprint.com> #40100, 90% done, 90% to go.
>
> RVPilot at MCHSI dot COM
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
John,
I have a question on the copper washers for the plugs...............an o
le A&P told me you can clean them, heat them up, and reuse them? Any
truth to that? I know it is best to replace them as they cost very litt
le. .......for airplane parts!
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________
Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!
32
Message 7
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| Subject: | Seat Frames - Group buy update |
Another point on the rear seats. Even though the seats may have headrests,
they are of marginal value in that the rear seats can not recline like the
front; given the fixed support aft. I have created a small headrest which
rivets on to the existing seat so that my inertial reel belts operate
properly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat Frames - Group buy update
The downside I can see is that you completely lose access to reaching
through to the baggage area, and with tall seats, it makes it very
inconvenient if you need to get back there. (My pi$$ bottle for
one is back there. ;) )
For those at OSH that got the chance to see my rear seats, Abby
has figured a way to add a modular setup to the rear seats, so
that you can choose from a low seat-gap filler, a low filler
with cupholders, or a higher armrest, and then between the seat
backs is another filler that can be inserted that is also
independently tippable. So for those who only occasionally
require a bench, or 3rd seat, this is a convenient option.
The other thing that is hard to get past with any bench options is,
how exactly does the builder intend to move the existing seat belt
anchor points, and come up with 6 more points that can be used for
mounting seat belts, while still giving enough room to belt in
a normal sized adult? That's why from her thoughts, she decided
to go with a simple, cheap, and effective modular and
removable concept.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James, Peter [SD] wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Just before OSH, I posted a note to let people know that I had had high
> back seat frames made for my RV-10. I didn't get pictures posted before
> the show.... but we did have the frames at the Cleveland Tool both at
> AirVenture. Many came by to look, but only one actual order was
> placed. What surprised me most was how many 6, 7, and 9 drivers were
> interested in having high seat backs in their planes.
>
> Cleveland has now posted pictures of the frames inside my fuselage on
> their website. They can be seen at:
>
> http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK
> <http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK >
>
> We are now trying to make a decision whether to make an actual
> production run, or to abandon the project... Take a look and let Mike
> at Cleveland know if you are interested. He marked down the price a bit
> in hopes that this will get the ball rolling. I think the finished
> product is going to be great. Take a look.. let me know what you
> think. There was some concern about weight, but with the -10 being so
> nose heavy, a bit of weight this far back isn't necessarily a bad thing.
>
> All comments are welcome.... good or bad.
>
> pete james <mailto:petejames@sprint.com> #40100, 90% done, 90% to go.
>
> RVPilot at MCHSI dot COM
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | RTV As a sealant |
Hi Les,
The plans say Pro-Seal , however the correct material is Firewall Sealant V
an's part number MC-CS-1900.
Firewall sealant is good to 2000 degrees fuel tank sealant is not.
Tip for working with Firewall sealant it doesn't have the same consistence
as fuel tank sealant. more like a juice blub of foam (weird stuff.)
Anyway put it into a mono-inject or syringe without a needle and "inject it
" where you need it.
I can't say much about using RTV other than what a Tech counselor told me
"your building a $100,000+ dollar plane $20 bucks for the right material is
n't much in the grand scheme of things."
Have fun,
Vern Smith (#324 rudder pedals)> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 21:20:01 -0600> Fro
m: kearney@shaw.ca> Subject: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant> To: rv10-list@mat
>> > Hi > > As I work through the firewall, I noticed that the plans call f
or Pro-Seal> to seal the firewall recess as well as around the air vents.>
> Is there any issue in using RTV 732 as a sealant in this type of> applica
tion? Aside from fuel tanks, when would use of pro-seal be essential> versu
s something like RTV? > > Inquiring minds need to know...> > Les Kearney> #
================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too!
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink
Message 9
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
One of my oldest IA buddies would always collect them and then anneal
them (In mass) so they became more supple and malleable. I was taught
to discard and use new. They are not unreasonably expensive when
purchased in quantities of 100.
The Champion sparkplug seminar confirmed the annealing process but
countered that each time they are compressed they not only harden
(reason for annealing), but they flatten out - never to retain the
original "build height". With higher performance engines (you be the
judge) the reuse of pre-used copper crush rings were allowing the plug
to extend into the combustion cylinder and hinder the event. Results
ranges from Detonation to cracked heads radiating from the sparkplug
hole.
On lower compression engines I have seen widespread use of the annealing
process and yes, I do collect the discarded ones.
Another important technique is to use the correct tools to adjust the
gap. Use the wrong tool and you will crack the insulator.
Just repeating what they showed at the Champion OSH seminar.
I will always use "New" with my paying customers and as an EAA Tech, I
can only share information for mass distribution that is not my typical
wild A%% speculation. Kelly, help me out here....
John Cox
EAA #5242
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 12:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
John,
I have a question on the copper washers for the plugs...............an
ole A&P told me you can clean them, heat them up, and reuse them? Any
truth to that? I know it is best to replace them as they cost very
little. .......for airplane parts!
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________
/2-2125045-32">Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!
Message 10
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| Subject: | RTV As a sealant |
Pro-Seal is a brand name of DeSoto - PPG sealant. It comes in over 40
flavors. Several will and do withstand high temperature on our Air
Carrier Fleet the Dash 8/200 turboprop, Q400 turboprop and CRJ-700
Turbines. MC-CS-1900 is used for just one specific purpose. RTV has
its own applications.
The use of a Mono-inject syringe is quite commonly used when the smaller
quantity is less than justifying a Semco pneumatic gun. I have three
sizes of guns and still resort to a syringe for really small jobs.
Use of the correct material is always better than speculation. But then
each builder has the right and responsibility as the final Manufacturer
to pick appropriate products or do whatever moves them. VANS just
designed the thing and made a bunch of cool products to throw at it.
Silicone based compounds are a real bitch when a paintable surface is
desired. ProSeal is great with primer, paints or au naturale.
Knowing your choices and picking wisely is what makes this pastime so
much fun.
John C.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
Hi Les,
The plans say Pro-Seal , however the correct material is Firewall
Sealant Van's part number MC-CS-1900.
Firewall sealant is good to 2000 degrees fuel tank sealant is not.
Tip for working with Firewall sealant it doesn't have the same
consistence as fuel tank sealant. more like a juice blub of foam (weird
stuff.)
Anyway put it into a mono-inject or syringe without a needle and "inject
it" where you need it.
I can't say much about using RTV other than what a Tech counselor told
me
"your building a $100,000+ dollar plane $20 bucks for the right material
isn't much in the grand scheme of things."
Have fun,
Vern Smith (#324 rudder pedals)
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 21:20:01 -0600
> From: kearney@shaw.ca
> Subject: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hi
>
> As I work through the firewall, I noticed that the plans call for
Pro-Seal
> to seal the firewall recess as well as around the air vents.
>
> Is there any issue in using RTV 732 as a sealant in this type of
> application? Aside from fuel tanks, when would use of pro-seal be
essential
> versus something like RTV?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
> Les Kearney
>
>
>
________________________________
Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too! Play It!
<http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Seat Frames - Group buy update |
I hate to pile on with the negative vibes, but I agree that losing access to
the baggage compartment from inside the cabin would be very significant. I
regularly fill the lower part of the compartment through the baggage door,
but due to it's size that leaves a lot of useable space above that can only
be filled (and with 2 daughters in college, does it ever get filled!) by
reaching above the back seats. Additionally, when the folks in the back
decide to snooze, they usually are against the side wall with a pillow.
Great idea but all those considering should weigh the consequences.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat Frames - Group buy update
Another point on the rear seats. Even though the seats may have headrests,
they are of marginal value in that the rear seats can not recline like the
front; given the fixed support aft. I have created a small headrest which
rivets on to the existing seat so that my inertial reel belts operate
properly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seat Frames - Group buy update
The downside I can see is that you completely lose access to reaching
through to the baggage area, and with tall seats, it makes it very
inconvenient if you need to get back there. (My pi$$ bottle for
one is back there. ;) )
For those at OSH that got the chance to see my rear seats, Abby
has figured a way to add a modular setup to the rear seats, so
that you can choose from a low seat-gap filler, a low filler
with cupholders, or a higher armrest, and then between the seat
backs is another filler that can be inserted that is also
independently tippable. So for those who only occasionally
require a bench, or 3rd seat, this is a convenient option.
The other thing that is hard to get past with any bench options is,
how exactly does the builder intend to move the existing seat belt
anchor points, and come up with 6 more points that can be used for
mounting seat belts, while still giving enough room to belt in
a normal sized adult? That's why from her thoughts, she decided
to go with a simple, cheap, and effective modular and
removable concept.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James, Peter [SD] wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Just before OSH, I posted a note to let people know that I had had high
> back seat frames made for my RV-10. I didn't get pictures posted before
> the show.... but we did have the frames at the Cleveland Tool both at
> AirVenture. Many came by to look, but only one actual order was
> placed. What surprised me most was how many 6, 7, and 9 drivers were
> interested in having high seat backs in their planes.
>
> Cleveland has now posted pictures of the frames inside my fuselage on
> their website. They can be seen at:
>
> http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK
> <http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV10SEATBACK >
>
> We are now trying to make a decision whether to make an actual
> production run, or to abandon the project... Take a look and let Mike
> at Cleveland know if you are interested. He marked down the price a bit
> in hopes that this will get the ball rolling. I think the finished
> product is going to be great. Take a look.. let me know what you
> think. There was some concern about weight, but with the -10 being so
> nose heavy, a bit of weight this far back isn't necessarily a bad thing.
>
> All comments are welcome.... good or bad.
>
> pete james <mailto:petejames@sprint.com> #40100, 90% done, 90% to go.
>
> RVPilot at MCHSI dot COM
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Maybe I'm wrong, but I have never replaced mine..... in my Cherokee for
5 years and in my RV-4 for 5 years..... Just clean them off and
re-torque the plugs. Never seen an exhaust leak around them....
Your mileage may vary, maybe I've just been lucky...
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
John,
I have a question on the copper washers for the plugs...............an
ole A&P told me you can clean them, heat them up, and reuse them? Any
truth to that? I know it is best to replace them as they cost very
little. .......for airplane parts!
DEAN
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting a MAG drop. |
Wellllll, for a long time annealing was a time honored chance to play with
your torch, make things glow cherry red and warm things up a bit in a cold
hangar. However, today, copper scrap is worth so much you maybe get more fo
r
selling them than reusing.
I personally doubt there is any significant flattening of the washers unles
s
you use the upper limit of the torque spec and like using your breaker bar
with cheater to see whether you can get the helicoil out with the plugs or
not. Personally, I don't care what TCM and Lyc say...I'm not going over 25
ft.lbs on a plug, period. It is plenty, still takes a lot of force to remov
e
the plug, etc.
What I do see is the washers dishing a bit...so put the concave side toward
the cylinder to reverse that. Nary a problem doing it that way for 32 years
.
On the other hand, if you have one of those hot rod 10:1 piston combos,
better use new ones and honk on that torque wrench.
On 8/10/07, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
>
> One of my oldest IA buddies would always collect them and then anneal
> them (In mass) so they became more supple and malleable. I was taught to
> discard and use new. They are not unreasonably expensive when purchased
in
> quantities of 100.
>
>
> The Champion sparkplug seminar confirmed the annealing process but
> countered that each time they are compressed they not only harden (reason
> for annealing), but they flatten out ' never to retain the original "bu
ild
> height". With higher performance engines (you be the judge) the reuse of
> pre-used copper crush rings were allowing the plug to extend into the
> combustion cylinder and hinder the event. Results ranges from Detonation
to
> cracked heads radiating from the sparkplug hole.
>
>
> On lower compression engines I have seen widespread use of the annealing
> process and yes, I do collect the discarded ones.
>
>
> Another important technique is to use the correct tools to adjust the
> gap. Use the wrong tool and you will crack the insulator.
>
>
> Just repeating what they showed at the Champion OSH seminar.
>
>
> I will always use "New" with my paying customers and as an EAA Tech, I ca
n
> only share information for mass distribution that is not my typical wild
A%%
> speculation. Kelly, help me out here=85.
>
>
> John Cox
>
> EAA #5242
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ddddsp1@juno.com
> *Sent:* Friday, August 10, 2007 12:12 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Troubleshooting a MAG drop.
>
>
> John,
>
> I have a question on the copper washers for the plugs...............an ol
e
> A&P told me you can clean them, heat them up, and reuse them? Any trut
h
> to that? I know it is best to replace them as they cost very little.
> .......for airplane parts!
>
> DEAN
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> /2-2125045-32">Get Juno DSL - the easier, safer broadband!
>
> * *
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
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>
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>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
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| Subject: | RTV As a sealant |
John / Vernon
Thanks for the advice. I do want to se the right material and thought
perhaps RTV would be an acceptable substitute. My A&P (AME in Canada) has
used it in my engine compartment so I thought it might be an easier material
to use. It is curious that the plans specify proseal while there is a vans
firewall sealer available for just this purpose.
Thanks again
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: August-10-07 3:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
Pro-Seal is a brand name of DeSoto - PPG sealant. It comes in over 40
flavors. Several will and do withstand high temperature on our Air Carrier
Fleet the Dash 8/200 turboprop, Q400 turboprop and CRJ-700 Turbines.
MC-CS-1900 is used for just one specific purpose. RTV has its own
applications.
The use of a Mono-inject syringe is quite commonly used when the smaller
quantity is less than justifying a Semco pneumatic gun. I have three sizes
of guns and still resort to a syringe for really small jobs.
Use of the correct material is always better than speculation. But then
each builder has the right and responsibility as the final Manufacturer to
pick appropriate products or do whatever moves them. VANS just designed the
thing and made a bunch of cool products to throw at it. Silicone based
compounds are a real bitch when a paintable surface is desired. ProSeal is
great with primer, paints or au naturale.
Knowing your choices and picking wisely is what makes this pastime so much
fun.
John C.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
Hi Les,
The plans say Pro-Seal , however the correct material is Firewall Sealant
Van's part number MC-CS-1900.
Firewall sealant is good to 2000 degrees fuel tank sealant is not.
Tip for working with Firewall sealant it doesn't have the same consistence
as fuel tank sealant. more like a juice blub of foam (weird stuff.)
Anyway put it into a mono-inject or syringe without a needle and "inject it"
where you need it.
I can't say much about using RTV other than what a Tech counselor told me
"your building a $100,000+ dollar plane $20 bucks for the right material
isn't much in the grand scheme of things."
Have fun,
Vern Smith (#324 rudder pedals)
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 21:20:01 -0600
> From: kearney@shaw.ca
> Subject: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hi
>
> As I work through the firewall, I noticed that the plans call for Pro-Seal
> to seal the firewall recess as well as around the air vents.
>
> Is there any issue in using RTV 732 as a sealant in this type of
> application? Aside from fuel tanks, when would use of pro-seal be
essential
> versus something like RTV?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know...
>
> Les Kearney
>
>
>
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