Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:19 AM - Re: What will it be worth? (GRANSCOTT@AOL.COM)
2. 05:21 AM - Re: What will it be worth? (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
3. 06:04 AM - Re: What will it be worth? (Tim Olson)
4. 06:39 AM - Re: What will it be worth? (Rick Sked)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: What will it be worth? (Max Hegler)
6. 09:30 AM - Re: What will it be worth? (John W. Cox)
7. 11:10 AM - Re: Flush door latch (nick@nleonard.com)
8. 12:03 PM - Re: Alternator power wiring, alternator whine (Eric Parlow)
9. 12:08 PM - Re: Re: Flush door latch (gary)
10. 01:34 PM - Re: Nose gear (John Gonzalez)
11. 02:28 PM - Re: Nose gear (Chris and Susie McGough)
12. 03:11 PM - Re: Alternator power wiring, alternator whine (Rick Sked)
13. 03:46 PM - Re:Alternator power wiring, alternator whine (Tim Lewis)
14. 04:29 PM - FYI Ebay Heads Up XM weather receiver (Deems Davis)
15. 06:33 PM - Control Cable Questions (Byron Gillespie)
16. 07:35 PM - Re: Re: Flush door latch (Kevin Belue)
17. 08:14 PM - Re: Nose gear (dogsbark@comcast.net)
18. 10:22 PM - Re: Re: Flush door latch (Steven DiNieri)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: What will it be worth? |
In a message dated 8/12/2007 11:01:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Doug.Gee@firestone-textiles.com writes:
I have to admit that a used 182 could be bought for about the cost of the
RV10 materials with similar performance and it is certified.
Doug,
I don't think you can compare an old C 182 with the RV 10 as for performance
and handling...Others will probably be able to give you better information,
but the RV 10 is similar in speed and handling to the newer generation of
aircraft as compared to a design from Cessna's 1950's technology. The 182 is a
nice
plane and has a good useful load...it's a good airplane to fly. If you want
to step up in speed you'd need the retract 182...called an R182 a little
faster but still slower than an RV 10 and it still handles like a Cessna with all
the rattly doors/windows.
As a builder of an RV, I think your A&P may be missing why you are building
and why builders build. It's not for re-sale for most builders. It's the
accomplishment and satisfaction of flying something you've created. If you want
to be in the business of building and selling aircraft then it's best to set up
a business to do this.
If you're building and then are going to sell it quickly, it's not a very
rewarding enterprise for most to do this. An experimental will generally not
have the same re-sale value as a "certified" plane, when you compare all that
you've invested vs. what the "certified" company has completed. But as you look
at this one needs to keep in mind that you'll need to compare likes to likes.
A new C 182 will set you back about $400k, a newly built RV 10 will be $135k+
depending upon how much avionics one invests. The new Cessna 182T with G
1000 system as still the same old design as the original planes, they have better
seats and doors and because of all the new heavy equipment they are only a 3
person plane, useful load is down significantly.
I have several hundred hours flying the 182T and for the money that they cost
they a poor investment. The modern performance is not there...it still has
all the elements that slows the plane down. So to compare the "10" with a 182
is mixing apples with oranges. You've really got to compare the RV 10 to a
Cirrus type aircraft to get performance and technology. Comparing the "10" to
a
20+ years old plane is not a fair comparison.
There are some nice ol' 182's out there and they will get you from A to B
safely, but you'll be going slow, using more fuel per hour and the doors and
windows will leak no matter what you do...your feet will roast and your head will
be cold in the winter along with a numb arm that is next to the window and it
will be an OK plane to fly...no style, yesterday news on design. If you want
to fly something faster, more efficient then nothing from Cessna will do
unless you go into their new sport plane. There are only a few choices of
"certified" aircraft--Columbia, Cirrus, Mooney Ovation II, etc., and a few
experimental. The "certified's" in the RV 10 class will cost well north of $350k
but
probably close to $500k and the RV 10 will cost a lot less. The RV 10 will be
as
basic or as sophisticated as you want.
If you want to fly a Cessna then stay with the Cessna and step up from the
172 to the 182; you'll go a little faster, and it can happen quickly for you to
do so. If you want the experience of a life time then build an experimental.
If you're concerned about you're payback, building is probably not for you,
nor is buying a new airplane, either....MHO.
Patrick
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: What will it be worth? |
In a message dated 8/12/2007 11:51:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ricksked@embarqmail.com writes:
W.C Fields mentioned something about someone born every minute.
P.T. Barnum...
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: What will it be worth? |
I think your airplane mechanic seems to have a stake in you
NOT buying a homebuilt. I wonder....is there a benefit to
HIM if you buy a C-182 vs. an RV-10?? And, what exactly
would that be? ;)
He's right, about some kits....you won't get much more
than, or possibly even equal to, what you pay to build it.
But, he obviously hasn't been exposed enough to RV's, and
especially the RV-10.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Doug Gee wrote:
> <Doug.Gee@firestone-textiles.com>
>
> I am a pilot and own a 172. I have never built a plane before but
> after talking with the folks at Van's at Sun n Fun and going for a
> ride in the RV10, I am very interested in giving it a try. I spent
> several hours with the fine folks at the sheet metal shop at Sun n
> Fun and they provided a wealth of info and gave me basic instruction.
> I was already to order the tools and the tail kit when I reviewed the
> project with my airplane mechanic and he informed me that I would be
> lucky to get half of the investment back when it was completed. I
> have since checked the internet and I see some for sale at well above
> the materials cost. I have to admit that a used 182 could be bought
> for about the cost of the RV10 materials with similar performance and
> it is certified. Can anyone tell me what it is really going to be
> worth (assuming new everything)? I see what people are asking for
> them but what are they actually selling for?
>
> Thanks
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: What will it be worth? |
oops....Wrong quote book!!
----- Original Message -----
From: GRANSCOTT@aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 5:20:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What will it be worth?
In a message dated 8/12/2007 11:51:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ricksked@embarqmail.com
writes:
W.C Fields mentioned something about someone born every minute.
P.T. Barnum...
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: What will it be worth? |
There's a P.T. Barnum born every minute? ;)
----- Original Message -----
From: GRANSCOTT@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: What will it be worth?
In a message dated 8/12/2007 11:51:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ricksked@embarqmail.com writes:
W.C Fields mentioned something about someone born every minute.
P.T. Barnum...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Message 6
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| Subject: | What will it be worth? |
Consistency of construction technique to an FAA approved standard is
one. Having only those people who had to prove knowledge and competence
(at one point in time)to maintain aircraft is a second (A & P
mechanics). Solidly established actuary statistics for stabilized
insurance rates a third. And finally, the ability to use the asset in a
Commercial Endeavour such as revenue production is a fourth for reasons
to considering a Certificated, Mass Produced Aircraft.
Ability to modify is one, ability to do one's own maintenance work is
two, a great group of builders to bounce ideas off of is three, a lower
cost to acquire a New product is four. And the final reason is the
shear satisfaction at building such a wonderful accomplishment during an
all too short lifetime is the Fifth for an Owner Built and Maintained
Kit Assembled aircraft.
Know your mission, know your purpose and then don't look back on your
decision. The water is fine... jump in... we are all treading.
John Cox
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 9:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: What will it be worth?
Let's break it down...
NEW Airplane that cruises 160-165kts, climbs at 1500-2000 ft/min, has a
plethora of EFIS displays to choose from that you can maintain yourself
for
$130,000 to $180,000.... Yeah you gotta want to build it.
- vs -
Used (30+ years used) 182 that cruises at 125-130kts, has a vacuum pump
and
standard 6 pack, requires an A&P IA every time you touch it for 80,000 -
120,000+
I am assuming you weren't even considering a $400,000 new Cessna.
I'm not knocking 182's at all but side by side comparison really shows
how
strong the 10 is. 182's are excellent aircraft. I had myself, 2 other
adults, and a teenager in one the other day. We climbed to 10,000 and
circled Mt. St. Helens. Excellent airplane, everyone was comfortable.
Oh
yeah we were in that cause the 10 isnt finished yet!!
I don't think there is really a right or wrong answer to this as it
depends
entirely on the person. You have to want to build an airplane to put
together a 10. If it were your full time job it would take more than a
year
to complete. Do you have that kind of time to spend? How long will it
take
you to carve out 2500+ hours to assemble this from your daily grind?
Now about the money... If you can't sell it for what you have into it
(not
counting labor) then something is seriously wrong and most likely it's
the
manufacturer (you) that did the something wrong.
The resources available to builders today have really changed the face
of
"experimental" airplanes. The EAA and having communities such as this
one
available nearly 24x7 for comment has been invaluable. I can't imagine
doing this without the Randy DeBauw's, Tim Olson's, Deems Davis's, and
yes
even 1/2 of what John Cox says, just kidding John! Spend some time
looking
through Tim's website http://www.myrv10.com and you'll see what I mean.
Call me some time if you want to discuss more 503-639-4049 PST.
-Ben Westfall
PDX
#40579 - Fuse (damn Section #29)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gee
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 7:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What will it be worth?
<Doug.Gee@firestone-textiles.com>
I am a pilot and own a 172. I have never built a plane before but after
talking with the folks at Van's at Sun n Fun and going for a ride in the
RV10, I am very interested in giving it a try. I spent several hours
with
the fine folks at the sheet metal shop at Sun n Fun and they provided a
wealth of info and gave me basic instruction. I was already to order
the
tools and the tail kit when I reviewed the project with my airplane
mechanic
and he informed me that I would be lucky to get half of the investment
back
when it was completed. I have since checked the internet and I see some
for
sale at well above the materials cost. I have to admit that a used 182
could be bought for about the cost of the RV10 materials with similar
performance and it is certified. Can anyone tell me what it is really
going
to be worth (assuming new everything)? I see what people are asking for
them
but what are they actually selling for?
Thanks
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flush door latch |
Rob,
I ended up using the ACS Experimental Door Handles which uses the same billet style
as the others. Its made by Hendricks Manufacturing;
http://www.hendricksmfg.com/latchprod.html
and I now see that you can buy them direct for less than what I paid at ACS. Go
figure.
The outside flush mount came out very nicely, although the full-size template that
came with the unit isnt really full-size. It was actually easier to just
do a layout, centering the pivot point with the handle opening recess of the door.
That part of the installation was easy and came out very nicely. The outside
flush handles will look great. However, it was the looks of the inside
handles that I couldnt stand and prompted the change.
Hendricks cautions you not to take the units apart. There is a small spring and
ball bearing that is used for the detent that needs to be captured. Im not
sure I could have fit the unit without taking it apart but putting it back together
while on the plane will be more challenging than if it was out on the bench.
However, it is certainly doable.
I used the inside handles (I needed to reverse them side for side) and created
a fiberglass cover that will protect the handle from being accidentally opened
while it also covers the fiberglass that I had to cut out of the door (most of
the handle recess area). You lose the button locking functionality with these
handles which isnt an issue on the outside but needs a solution on the inside
so that someone doesnt accidentally yank it open while in flight. My fiberglass
covers will protect the handles sufficiently so that there are no exposed
edges of the handles to be caught.
Because the pivoting offset of the new handles is different than Vans, I couldnt
see how to use the original geared arrangement. I used the same pushrod tubing
but created a pivot point near the outside of the door. I also put a second
nylon block just inside of the original locations to support greater alignment
surface of the push pins.
I also used the Door Guide and Pin Set from Rivethead,
http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm
which I think will work out very well. There are no instructions for how to blind
mount the guides (drilled and screwed from the back) which I havent decided
on a solution yet. They are also thicker then the door opening, so I will either
need to mill them down or relieve them into the fiberglass door jam.
It took a lot of extra time to figure out how to adapt the pushrods which Steve
has done with flat stock in his door handle solution.
http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/index.html
I dont see what he proposes for inside door handles but I like the rest of his
approach and it would probably be the approach I would select if I were to so
it over again. Using the tubular stock for push rods required that I buy eight
rod end bearings (at $9 apiece) to thread into the tubes for pivot points.
A side comment; the Hendricks door locks are way too big (sticking out). Im going
to try to adapt the locks used on the baggage door which will add the advantage
of them all being keyed the same.
Otherwise, I love the look of the flush outside handles. I miss the button release
feature for the inside handles and I love the Door Guide and Pin sets. It
reminded me once again of how much extra time it takes to change away form anything
that is not on the plans.
Nick (40015, finish kit)
C: 916-425-1064 Nick@NLeonard.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128967#128967
Message 8
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| Subject: | Alternator power wiring, alternator whine |
Tim,
Here's my power system, it's a variation on the Aeroelectric Z14-FADEC.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Misc_PDF/
I have two Concord 28V 17 amp-hr batteries in the rear. (single pilot W&B
needs some rear ballast anyway).
Each has its own contactor, also in the rear near the battery.
They are connected by a cross-feed contactor.
I ran a single #2 welding cable in the tunnel from the rear cross-feed
contactor & "A" battery contactor output to a firewall bulkhead.
At the bulkhead is an isolated 3/8" stud passing thru the firewall on the
left side.
The feed from the cross-over/"A" battery and the main "A" bus behind the
panel attach to the stud on the inside.
The starter contactor and the main "A" alternator (B&C L-60) connect on the
firewall side of the stud.
A second "B" alternator (B&C SD20) connects directly to the output side of
the "B" battery contactor with a mid-wire junction to a "B" main bus behind
the panel.
Each alternator is controlled by a B&C controller (LS-1A)
Each battery contactor and alternator is switched by a three position switch
"OFF/Batt-A/Batt-A & Alt-A" and "OFF/Batt-B/Batt-B & Alt-B"
The contactor has its own three position switch and can be powered by either
battery.
"OFF/X-FEED/START"
I also ran a single #2 welding cable from the ground on both batteries to a
stud on the right side of the firewall.
All the FWF ground and the panel ground bus connect to this single stud.
A second ground using a #10 wire is connected directly from the batteries to
the ground bus.
This is to avoid the single point failure of the main #2 ground lead
connections.
In addition to the #2 main power feed I have two #10 wires direct from each
battery to a switch then to a "A" & "B" engine bus behind the panel.
There is a 40 amp current limiter (B&C C903-1 w/ C905-40) on each wire at
the batteries.
These power the Electronic Engine A & B side and a few essential items and
act as the typical Right mag/Left mag switches.
The power is distributed thru 4 fuse blocks (B&C FH-6 & FH-12) with
appropriately sized fuses.
Five switches in a row control all the power and starting.
Left to Right: "A" Main/Alt, "A" Engine, X-Feed/Start, "B" Engine, "B"
Main/Alt
Questions? :-)
ERic-
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Flush door latch |
It is hard to tell from pix but do these flush handles have a safety lock on the
inside to prevent inadvertent opening in flight?
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nick@nleonard.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flush door latch
Rob,
I ended up using the ACS Experimental Door Handles which uses the same billet style
as the others. Its made by Hendricks Manufacturing;
http://www.hendricksmfg.com/latchprod.html
and I now see that you can buy them direct for less than what I paid at ACS. Go
figure.
The outside flush mount came out very nicely, although the full-size template that
came with the unit isnt really full-size. It was actually easier to just
do a layout, centering the pivot point with the handle opening recess of the door.
That part of the installation was easy and came out very nicely. The outside
flush handles will look great. However, it was the looks of the inside
handles that I couldnt stand and prompted the change.
Hendricks cautions you not to take the units apart. There is a small spring and
ball bearing that is used for the detent that needs to be captured. Im not
sure I could have fit the unit without taking it apart but putting it back together
while on the plane will be more challenging than if it was out on the bench.
However, it is certainly doable.
I used the inside handles (I needed to reverse them side for side) and created
a fiberglass cover that will protect the handle from being accidentally opened
while it also covers the fiberglass that I had to cut out of the door (most of
the handle recess area). You lose the button locking functionality with these
handles which isnt an issue on the outside but needs a solution on the inside
so that someone doesnt accidentally yank it open while in flight. My fiberglass
covers will protect the handles sufficiently so that there are no exposed
edges of the handles to be caught.
Because the pivoting offset of the new handles is different than Vans, I couldnt
see how to use the original geared arrangement. I used the same pushrod tubing
but created a pivot point near the outside of the door. I also put a second
nylon block just inside of the original locations to support greater alignment
surface of the push pins.
I also used the Door Guide and Pin Set from Rivethead,
http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm
which I think will work out very well. There are no instructions for how to blind
mount the guides (drilled and screwed from the back) which I havent decided
on a solution yet. They are also thicker then the door opening, so I will either
need to mill them down or relieve them into the fiberglass door jam.
It took a lot of extra time to figure out how to adapt the pushrods which Steve
has done with flat stock in his door handle solution.
http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/index.html
I dont see what he proposes for inside door handles but I like the rest of his
approach and it would probably be the approach I would select if I were to so
it over again. Using the tubular stock for push rods required that I buy eight
rod end bearings (at $9 apiece) to thread into the tubes for pivot points.
A side comment; the Hendricks door locks are way too big (sticking out). Im going
to try to adapt the locks used on the baggage door which will add the advantage
of them all being keyed the same.
Otherwise, I love the look of the flush outside handles. I miss the button release
feature for the inside handles and I love the Door Guide and Pin sets. It
reminded me once again of how much extra time it takes to change away form anything
that is not on the plans.
Nick (40015, finish kit)
C: 916-425-1064 Nick@NLeonard.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128967#128967
Message 10
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Looks like the sub contractor's jig was mis aligned or they didn't use it.
One of my control sticks had this problem...lousy quality control.
With that front tire always cocked over to the left, you'll resemble a road
grader.
JOhn
>From: dogsbark@comcast.net
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear
>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 06:14:33 +0000
>
>I started putting on the landing gear tonight and noticed the nose gear has
>a curve in it. The curve creates a gap of about 3/16th of an inch left to
>right when I put a straight edge on it. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>Also, it appears the gear has a slight twist in the longitudinal axis.
>
>I will let Van's know. Just curious of other's experience.
>
>Here's a link to a pic.
>
>http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/images/149276665146bea29a87a21.jpg
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Sean Blair
>#40225
Message 11
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I had a stuffed gear leg and they replaced it all the way to here downunder.
About $330 US in freight and they paid.
No dramas.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose gear
>
> Looks like the sub contractor's jig was mis aligned or they didn't use it.
> One of my control sticks had this problem...lousy quality control.
>
> With that front tire always cocked over to the left, you'll resemble a
> road grader.
>
> JOhn
>
>
>>From: dogsbark@comcast.net
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear
>>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 06:14:33 +0000
>>
>>I started putting on the landing gear tonight and noticed the nose gear
>>has a curve in it. The curve creates a gap of about 3/16th of an inch left
>>to right when I put a straight edge on it. Has anyone else seen this?
>>
>>Also, it appears the gear has a slight twist in the longitudinal axis.
>>
>>I will let Van's know. Just curious of other's experience.
>>
>>Here's a link to a pic.
>>
>>http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/images/149276665146bea29a87a21.jpg
>>
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Sean Blair
>>#40225
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator power wiring, alternator whine |
Eric,
You win the "Let's confuse the crap outta everyone using words instead of a schematic"
contest.
So your running 24 VDC system? Almost went that way if only for electric AC.
Rick S.
40185
finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:02:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternator power wiring, alternator whine
Tim,
Here's my power system, it's a variation on the Aeroelectric Z14-FADEC.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Misc_PDF/
I have two Concord 28V 17 amp-hr batteries in the rear. (single pilot W&B
needs some rear ballast anyway).
Each has its own contactor, also in the rear near the battery.
They are connected by a cross-feed contactor.
I ran a single #2 welding cable in the tunnel from the rear cross-feed
contactor & "A" battery contactor output to a firewall bulkhead.
At the bulkhead is an isolated 3/8" stud passing thru the firewall on the
left side.
The feed from the cross-over/"A" battery and the main "A" bus behind the
panel attach to the stud on the inside.
The starter contactor and the main "A" alternator (B&C L-60) connect on the
firewall side of the stud.
A second "B" alternator (B&C SD20) connects directly to the output side of
the "B" battery contactor with a mid-wire junction to a "B" main bus behind
the panel.
Each alternator is controlled by a B&C controller (LS-1A)
Each battery contactor and alternator is switched by a three position switch
"OFF/Batt-A/Batt-A & Alt-A" and "OFF/Batt-B/Batt-B & Alt-B"
The contactor has its own three position switch and can be powered by either
battery.
"OFF/X-FEED/START"
I also ran a single #2 welding cable from the ground on both batteries to a
stud on the right side of the firewall.
All the FWF ground and the panel ground bus connect to this single stud.
A second ground using a #10 wire is connected directly from the batteries to
the ground bus.
This is to avoid the single point failure of the main #2 ground lead
connections.
In addition to the #2 main power feed I have two #10 wires direct from each
battery to a switch then to a "A" & "B" engine bus behind the panel.
There is a 40 amp current limiter (B&C C903-1 w/ C905-40) on each wire at
the batteries.
These power the Electronic Engine A & B side and a few essential items and
act as the typical Right mag/Left mag switches.
The power is distributed thru 4 fuse blocks (B&C FH-6 & FH-12) with
appropriately sized fuses.
Five switches in a row control all the power and starting.
Left to Right: "A" Main/Alt, "A" Engine, X-Feed/Start, "B" Engine, "B"
Main/Alt
Questions? :-)
ERic-
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:Alternator power wiring, alternator whine |
Eric,
Thanks for taking the time to write up your system description. I'm
going over the data in the link you provided right now.
tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Eric Parlow wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Here's my power system, it's a variation on the Aeroelectric Z14-FADEC.
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Misc_PDF/
>
> I have two Concord 28V 17 amp-hr batteries in the rear. (single pilot
> W&B needs some rear ballast anyway).
> Each has its own contactor, also in the rear near the battery.
> They are connected by a cross-feed contactor.
> I ran a single #2 welding cable in the tunnel from the rear cross-feed
> contactor & "A" battery contactor output to a firewall bulkhead.
> At the bulkhead is an isolated 3/8" stud passing thru the firewall on
> the left side.
> The feed from the cross-over/"A" battery and the main "A" bus behind
> the panel attach to the stud on the inside.
> The starter contactor and the main "A" alternator (B&C L-60) connect
> on the firewall side of the stud.
>
> A second "B" alternator (B&C SD20) connects directly to the output
> side of the "B" battery contactor with a mid-wire junction to a "B"
> main bus behind the panel.
>
> Each alternator is controlled by a B&C controller (LS-1A)
> Each battery contactor and alternator is switched by a three position
> switch
> "OFF/Batt-A/Batt-A & Alt-A" and "OFF/Batt-B/Batt-B & Alt-B"
> The contactor has its own three position switch and can be powered by
> either battery.
> "OFF/X-FEED/START"
>
> I also ran a single #2 welding cable from the ground on both batteries
> to a stud on the right side of the firewall.
> All the FWF ground and the panel ground bus connect to this single stud.
> A second ground using a #10 wire is connected directly from the
> batteries to the ground bus.
> This is to avoid the single point failure of the main #2 ground lead
> connections.
>
> In addition to the #2 main power feed I have two #10 wires direct from
> each battery to a switch then to a "A" & "B" engine bus behind the panel.
> There is a 40 amp current limiter (B&C C903-1 w/ C905-40) on each wire
> at the batteries.
> These power the Electronic Engine A & B side and a few essential items
> and act as the typical Right mag/Left mag switches.
>
> The power is distributed thru 4 fuse blocks (B&C FH-6 & FH-12) with
> appropriately sized fuses.
>
> Five switches in a row control all the power and starting.
> Left to Right: "A" Main/Alt, "A" Engine, X-Feed/Start, "B" Engine, "B"
> Main/Alt
>
> Questions? :-)
>
> ERic-
> RV-10, 40014
> N104EP
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | FYI Ebay Heads Up XM weather receiver |
I just purchased a used XM weather receiver @ less than 1/2 the price of
a new one on Ebay. They had 2 units listed and with 15 minutes left in
the auction. it doesn't appear that the other one has met it's reserve
price and is going to sell. If anyone is interested I can supply the
contact information for the vendor so you may be able to deal direct.
For me this was a real opportunity as the alternative was a new unit @
close to $4k.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heads-Up-Technologies-XM-Weather-Receiver_W0QQitemZ170137783500QQihZ007QQcategoryZ26436QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Control Cable Questions |
Question for you folks..
I received my panel two weeks ago (super job Stein!) and have run into a
bit of a snag. I am using a canted center panel that sucks up a little
more cable length than the standard panel. By my calculations I need
about 2 to 2.5 inches for each cable. The options that I am looking at
are:
1. Buy new cables from Aircraft Spruce - that would leave me with up
to 10 inches of extra cable to "route away" plus the cost of the cables.
* Secondary question is the FFW cables appear to be A-760 cables
whereas others from Wicks and ACS are A-750 - Any idea what the
difference is??
2. Purchase "custom" cable lengths at the price of ~ $ 130 each -
still would be the A-750 cables
3. Investigate the Van's Quadrant - like Tim has. Still may have the
same length issue but could order custom lengths from Vans. Are the
cables the same length for the quadrant?
I have sent an e-mail to Vans with the same questions but thought it may
be good idea to question the experts who have gone before. :-)
Thanks for any info!
Byron
N253RV assigned - still finishing..connecting the panel to the "stuff".
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Flush door latch |
Nick,
I installed the ACS flush handles like you did. It was a lot of work, but I
like the way it turned out. As you've said, there is no internal latch to
hold the handle in place - I made a thin arm rest out of wood and foam that
the handle fits into to prevent the handle from accidentally being opened in
flight. The handle closes tightly so I think it will work alright. I also
used the Rivethead guides. I had installed the Van's guides before I'd heard
of the Rivethead parts, so if you do that first the guides will go right in
place of Van's guides. The Rivethead parts work soooo much better than Van's
guides. They guide the door into the same exact position every time and the
pins guide in perfectly. I think they should be a part of the kit because
they work so well.
I also disassembled the latch mechanism many times and find it fairly easy
to reassemble. Just be careful of that spring-loaded ball!
Kevin Belue
RV-6A 700+ hrs.
RV10 - finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <nick@nleonard.com>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flush door latch
>
> Rob,
>
> I ended up using the ACS Experimental Door Handles which uses the same
> billet style as the others. It?Ts made by Hendricks Manufacturing;
> http://www.hendricksmfg.com/latchprod.html
> and I now see that you can buy them direct for less than what I paid at
> ACS. Go figure.
>
> The outside flush mount came out very nicely, although the full-size
> template that came with the unit isn?Tt really full-size. It was
> actually easier to just do a layout, centering the pivot point with the
> handle opening recess of the door. That part of the installation was easy
> and came out very nicely. The outside flush handles will look great.
> However, it was the looks of the inside handles that I couldn?Tt stand
> and prompted the change.
>
> Hendricks cautions you not to take the units apart. There is a small
> spring and ball bearing that is used for the detent that needs to be
> captured. I?Tm not sure I could have fit the unit without taking it
> apart but putting it back together while on the plane will be more
> challenging than if it was out on the bench. However, it is certainly
> doable.
>
> I used the inside handles (I needed to reverse them side for side) and
> created a fiberglass cover that will protect the handle from being
> accidentally opened while it also covers the fiberglass that I had to cut
> out of the door (most of the handle recess area). You lose the button
> locking functionality with these handles which isn?Tt an issue on the
> outside but needs a solution on the inside so that someone doesn?Tt
> accidentally yank it open while in flight. My fiberglass covers will
> protect the handles sufficiently so that there are no exposed edges of the
> handles to be caught.
>
> Because the pivoting offset of the new handles is different than Van?Ts,
> I couldn?Tt see how to use the original geared arrangement. I used the
> same pushrod tubing but created a pivot point near the outside of the
> door. I also put a second nylon block just inside of the original
> locations to support greater alignment surface of the push pins.
>
> I also used the Door Guide and Pin Set from Rivethead,
> http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm
> which I think will work out very well. There are no instructions for how
> to blind mount the guides (drilled and screwed from the back) which I
> haven?Tt decided on a solution yet. They are also thicker then the door
> opening, so I will either need to mill them down or relieve them into the
> fiberglass door jam.
>
> It took a lot of extra time to figure out how to adapt the pushrods which
> Steve has done with flat stock in his door handle solution.
> http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/index.html
> I don?Tt see what he proposes for inside door handles but I like the rest
> of his approach and it would probably be the approach I would select if I
> were to so it over again. Using the tubular stock for push rods required
> that I buy eight rod end bearings (at $9 apiece) to thread into the tubes
> for pivot points.
> A side comment; the Hendricks door locks are way too big (sticking out).
> I?Tm going to try to adapt the locks used on the baggage door which will
> add the advantage of them all being keyed the same.
>
> Otherwise, I love the look of the flush outside handles. I miss the
> button release feature for the inside handles and I love the Door Guide
> and Pin sets. It reminded me once again of how much extra time it takes
> to change away form anything that is not on the plans.
>
> Nick (40015, finish kit)
> C: 916-425-1064 Nick@NLeonard.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128967#128967
>
>
>
Message 17
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Chris,
Good news to hear how Van's takes care of business. Thanks for the encouragement.
Sean
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> I had a stuffed gear leg and they replaced it all the way to here downunder.
> About $330 US in freight and they paid.
> No dramas.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Gonzalez"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:32 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose gear
>
>
> >
> > Looks like the sub contractor's jig was mis aligned or they didn't use it.
> > One of my control sticks had this problem...lousy quality control.
> >
> > With that front tire always cocked over to the left, you'll resemble a
> > road grader.
> >
> > JOhn
> >
> >
> >>From: dogsbark@comcast.net
> >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear
> >>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2007 06:14:33 +0000
> >>
> >>I started putting on the landing gear tonight and noticed the nose gear
> >>has a curve in it. The curve creates a gap of about 3/16th of an inch left
> >>to right when I put a straight edge on it. Has anyone else seen this?
> >>
> >>Also, it appears the gear has a slight twist in the longitudinal axis.
> >>
> >>I will let Van's know. Just curious of other's experience.
> >>
> >>Here's a link to a pic.
> >>
> >>http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/images/149276665146bea29a87a21.jpg
> >>
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Sean Blair
> >>#40225
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Chris,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Good news to hear how Van's takes care of business. Thanks for the encouragement.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Sean</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Chris and Susie
McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com> <BR><BR>> --> RV10-List message
posted by: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@BIGPOND.COM><BR>> <BR>> I had
a stuffed gear leg and they replaced it all the way to here downunder. <BR>>
About $330 US in freight and they paid. <BR>> No dramas. <BR>> <BR>>
----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From: "John Gonzalez" <INDIGOONLATIGO@MSN.COM><BR>>
To: <RV10-LIST@MATRONICS.COM><BR>> Sent: Tuesday, August
14, 2007 6:32 AM <BR>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose gear <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <INDIGOONLATIGO@MSN.COM><BR>>
> <BR>> > Looks like the sub contractor's jig was
mis aligned or they didn't use it. <BR>> > One of my control sticks had
this problem...lousy quality control. <BR>> >
; <BR>
;http:
=====
================================================== <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> </BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Flush door latch |
I've got to admit, I got my inspiration from the handles offered by Hendricks mfg.
and another from overseas. I was to be a customer but I was disappointed on
the size of the handle and lack of adaptability to our specific application.
So I drew up a handle meeting several criteria.
first, I wanted the profile to fit within the door, (1" thick)
second, I didn't want to modify the vans interior handle and latch/lock assembly.
Everything inside the door is as vans intended. Especially the inside
lock.
third, I wanted to make it specifically for the rv10, not a generic "make it
work" kind of part...
fourth, I wanted the exterior handle placed in the rear of the door where I
climb up to ease access.
Additional considerations were also (kiss), ambidextrous parts (all but one!),
the ability to add key cylinders, and the ability to add the handle to a flying
aircraft as easily as one during construction.
Oh by the way, we build airplanes by gosh, so I expect everyone to take the handles
apart, so I include an extra spring and bearing....:)
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
716.579.5790
(sorry if this sounded like a commercial but I had a few emails already asking
what makes mine different)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nick@nleonard.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flush door latch
Rob,
I ended up using the ACS Experimental Door Handles which uses the same billet style as the others. Its made by Hendricks Manufacturing; http://www.hendricksmfg.com/latchprod.html
and I now see that you can buy them direct for less than what I paid at ACS. Go
figure.
The outside flush mount came out very nicely, although the full-size template that
came with the unit isnt really full-size. It was actually easier to just
do a layout, centering the pivot point with the handle opening recess of the door.
That part of the installation was easy and came out very nicely. The outside
flush handles will look great. However, it was the looks of the inside
handles that I couldnt stand and prompted the change.
Hendricks cautions you not to take the units apart. There is a small spring and
ball bearing that is used for the detent that needs to be captured. Im not
sure I could have fit the unit without taking it apart but putting it back together
while on the plane will be more challenging than if it was out on the bench.
However, it is certainly doable.
I used the inside handles (I needed to reverse them side for side) and created
a fiberglass cover that will protect the handle from being accidentally opened
while it also covers the fiberglass that I had to cut out of the door (most of
the handle recess area). You lose the button locking functionality with these
handles which isnt an issue on the outside but needs a solution on the inside
so that someone doesnt accidentally yank it open while in flight. My fiberglass
covers will protect the handles sufficiently so that there are no exposed
edges of the handles to be caught.
Because the pivoting offset of the new handles is different than Vans, I couldnt
see how to use the original geared arrangement. I used the same pushrod tubing
but created a pivot point near the outside of the door. I also put a second
nylon block just inside of the original locations to support greater alignment
surface of the push pins.
I also used the Door Guide and Pin Set from Rivethead, http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm
which I think will work out very well. There are no instructions for how to blind
mount the guides (drilled and screwed from the back) which I havent decided
on a solution yet. They are also thicker then the door opening, so I will either
need to mill them down or relieve them into the fiberglass door jam.
It took a lot of extra time to figure out how to adapt the pushrods which Steve
has done with flat stock in his door handle solution.
http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/index.html
I dont see what he proposes for inside door handles but I like the rest of his
approach and it would probably be the approach I would select if I were to so
it over again. Using the tubular stock for push rods required that I buy eight
rod end bearings (at $9 apiece) to thread into the tubes for pivot points.
A side comment; the Hendricks door locks are way too big (sticking out). Im going
to try to adapt the locks used on the baggage door which will add the advantage
of them all being keyed the same.
Otherwise, I love the look of the flush outside handles. I miss the button release
feature for the inside handles and I love the Door Guide and Pin sets. It
reminded me once again of how much extra time it takes to change away form anything
that is not on the plans.
Nick (40015, finish kit)
C: 916-425-1064 Nick@NLeonard.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128967#128967
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