RV10-List Digest Archive

Sun 08/19/07


Total Messages Posted: 14



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 08:01 AM - Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alternators (William Curtis)
     2. 11:12 AM - Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alter (zackrv8)
     3. 02:54 PM - Blue Plastic removal (Bob Leffler)
     4. 03:45 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (egohr1)
     5. 04:06 PM - Re: Re: Blue Plastic removal (McGANN, Ron)
     6. 04:36 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (gary)
     7. 05:13 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Cal Hoffman)
     8. 06:05 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
     9. 06:09 PM - Re: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alter (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    10. 06:31 PM - Flap switch install? ()
    11. 06:36 PM - Re: Flap switch install? (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
    12. 07:16 PM - LoPresti HID landing lights (dmaib@mac.com)
    13. 08:14 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (KiloPapa)
    14. 09:40 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Rene)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 08:01:35 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C
    alternators
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    That confirms it--the Plane Power 60A DELUXE alternator is now standard in the FWF kit. Either enough people were excluding or upgrading so they are just including it now. This was not the case with my kit purchsed in May '07. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Last week I ordered my FWF kit from the list provided from Van's. This list shows part: ES Alternator Deluxe (60A kit w/OV protection). This is in the 2007 Accessories Catalog from Van's on page 10. The description states that it is the "Plane Power" alternator. > > Ed (40430) > Wings > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com> > > > > > William I deleted the Vans Alt from F/ forward kit and got Aerosport to put > > on a plane power alt. I got my FF kit a year ago. > > > > Chris > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "William Curtis" > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:50 AM > > Subject: re: RV10-List: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, > > B&C alternators > > > > > > > > > > The RV-10 firewall forward kit *use* to come with the Van's (Nippondenso) > > > 60A alternator. I can't remember who, but someone told me at OSH that > > > they have replaced the Nippondenso 60A (ES ALTERNATOR 60A KIT) with the > > > Plane Power 60 (ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE) in the Firewall Forward kits. I > > > elected to upgrade to the PP unit for the additional $100. Can anyone > > > receiving the Firewall Forward Kit recently confirm this? > > > > > > William > > > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > > > > > > -------- Original Message -------- > > >> > > >> I'm thinking of buying either a 60 Amp alternator made by either Plane > > >> Power ($375 including internal regulator and OV from Van's) or B&C > > >> ($595 + $228 for regulator & OV = $823) for my RV-10. The Plane Power > > >> price and simplicity are quite appealing. I've heard good things about > > >> Plane Power, and have heard of only a single failure in the field. B&C > > >> also has a very good reputation. So I'm seeking experiences, both good > > >> and bad, from people who have put a few hours on a Plane Power (or B&C) > > >> alternator. > > >> > > >> Thanks, > > >> > > >> Tim Lewis > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) > > >> RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs > > >> RV-10 #40059 under construction


    Message 2


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    Time: 11:12:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C
    alter
    From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
    Also, in regards to the FWF kit, I recieved a Niagra Oil Cooler (SCT'ed) in my FWF kit instead of the Positech or other brands that Van's was shipping. I guess Van's realized that there could/might be a an oil temp issue. Zack wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote: > That confirms it--the Plane Power 60A DELUXE alternator is now standard in the FWF kit. Either enough people were excluding or upgrading so they are just including it now. This was not the case with my kit purchsed in May '07. > > William > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > > ------ -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129830#129830


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:54:55 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Blue Plastic removal
    I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:45:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
    Can not speak to the corrosion issue. I am stripping the blue plastic from the empanage with was finished 2 years ago and it is coming off in small hard to remove pieces. I stripped the rest of the airplane as it was built. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129875#129875


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:06:14 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
    I left the vinyl on the skins in the shed extremes of heat/cold, dry/damp for 3+ years. Corrosion was evident, but limited to only very tiny areas at the vinyl edges - not worth a second thought. The vinyl had hardened with age and was a little more difficult to remove, but I have heard that slightly heating the vinyl with a heat gun allows it to come off more easily Cheers, Ron -187 finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of egohr1 Sent: Monday, 20 August 2007 8:14 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Blue Plastic removal --> <EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> Can not speak to the corrosion issue. I am stripping the blue plastic from the empanage with was finished 2 years ago and it is coming off in small hard to remove pieces. I stripped the rest of the airplane as it was built. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129875#129875


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:36:30 PM PST US
    From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: Blue Plastic removal
    >From my experience with several builds, the bigger issue is the difficulty of removing the plastic after it has been stored for several years. In one extreme case I had to sand off the plastic with a power sander and z-strip paint remover in order to get it off. It is true that a heat gun helps, but the longer it is on and the more it is subjected to sunlight, even through windows, the tougher it is to remove. My solution to the scratch issue is to wrap the part in bubble wrap after it is completed. That protects against scratches and small blows. Gary 40274 Wiring OP Tech panel _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 7


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    Time: 05:13:39 PM PST US
    From: "Cal Hoffman" <cehoffman@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    I have had more corrosion problems from perspiration dripping on the aluminum than from any blue plastic that stayed on to protect the skin. Cal Hoffman 40119 (Instrument Panel) Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: rv10-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:05:09 PM PST US
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Subject: Blue Plastic removal
    I'll echo what Gary said, it can get to be a bear to get the stuff off afte r a while. I also used to do the strips but just didn't see the point anym ore. Besides, you are going to scratch the hell out of it when you go to p aint it anyway. And any minor filliform or other corrosion will also be re moved when you go to sand it. Better to let it breath in my opinion. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for d impling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most re cent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counse lor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports ha ve been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corr osion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion un der the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:09:43 PM PST US
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Subject: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power,
    B&C alter I believe the Niagra is what Van has shipped for most, if not all, of the 10's. This is the one that most of us are talking about improving on. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:10 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alter Also, in regards to the FWF kit, I recieved a Niagra Oil Cooler (SCT'ed) in my FWF kit instead of the Positech or other brands that Van's was shipping. I guess Van's realized that there could/might be a an oil temp issue. Zack wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote: > That confirms it--the Plane Power 60A DELUXE alternator is now standard in the FWF kit. Either enough people were excluding or upgrading so they are just including it now. This was not the case with my kit purchsed in May '07. > > William > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > > ------ -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129830#129830


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:31:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Flap switch install?
    From: <tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero>
    Where have folks installed the micro-switch on the flap system for use with an AOA Sport? I checked the website, but couldn't find anything specific on the preferred install location. Pictures appreciated, if you can send them directly to my email address. (us digest folks don't get attachments) Thanks, TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt@aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile)


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:36:07 PM PST US
    From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Flap switch install?
    i took the easy way and did not install the switch. Just set mine for flaps up stall indication. Works like a champ with the docile stall characteristics of the bird. grumpy N184JM 60+ hours and now into painting it In a message dated 8/19/2007 8:33:13 PM Central Standard Time, tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero writes: Where have folks installed the micro-switch on the flap system for use with an AOA Sport? I checked the website, but couldn=99t find anything spe cific on the preferred install location. Pictures appreciated, if you can send them directly to my email address. (u s digest folks don=99t get attachments) Thanks, TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences _tdt@aurora.aero_ (mailto:tdt@aurora.aero) 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) t http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:16:05 PM PST US
    Subject: LoPresti HID landing lights
    From: "dmaib@mac.com" <dmaib@mac.com>
    We purchased a set of the LoPresti HID landing lights for the RV-10 at Sun n' Fun last April. The kit is superb and the drawings and plans are very good. We ran into a major disappointment today, however. I want to stress that this is not a LoPresti problem, but rather a poor planning problem with me. We have purchased and installed the SafeAir1 Extended Range fuel tanks. As we began the process of fitting the wing tips and installing the lighting, I began to be concerned about the HID kit fitting into the wingtip with the tanks. However, it looked like it just might work by moving the position of the ballast assembly for the lights. We found out today, that the two kits are not compatible. The HID kit simply will not fit into the wingtip with the ER tanks, even with major modifications. We learned a good lesson! So, I wanted to send the list a heads up if anyone is considering this particular combination. David and Mary Maib 40559 QB "Sadder but wiser" -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129900#129900


    Message 13


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    Time: 08:14:06 PM PST US
    From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    Howdy, You may find the vinyl coating difficult to remove after a 2-3 year period. Here is an excerpt from "Materials used in RV Airframes (Section 5) Part 1" located in the construction section of Van's website. 5M VINYL COATING Many of the alclad parts are supplied with a thin (usually blue) vinyl coating to prevent scratching during the manufacturing of the parts. The vinyl may be left on during drilling but should be removed for dimpling, priming and final installation. It is possible to remove strips of vinyl along rivet lines with a soldering iron. Carefully round and smooth the tip of the iron so it won't scratch the aluminum. The adhesive on the vinyl strengthens with age, so if the coating is left on for more than a few weeks, it may become very difficult to remove. Corrosion has been found under the vinyl in some instances. If vinyl covered parts must be stored for long periods, remove the vinyl first. Kevin 40494 tail/empennage do not archive ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 2:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:40:21 PM PST US
    From: "Rene" <rene@felker.com>
    Subject: Blue Plastic removal
    I just removed mine from the completed fuselage. The plastic has been on for 1.5 to 2.5 years. No corrosion and not hard to remove. Rene' 40322 Fisnish...paint 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 3:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684




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