Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 08:01 AM - Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alternators (William Curtis)
     2. 11:12 AM - Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alter (zackrv8)
     3. 02:54 PM - Blue Plastic removal (Bob Leffler)
     4. 03:45 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (egohr1)
     5. 04:06 PM - Re: Re: Blue Plastic removal (McGANN, Ron)
     6. 04:36 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (gary)
     7. 05:13 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Cal Hoffman)
     8. 06:05 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
     9. 06:09 PM - Re: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C alter (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    10. 06:31 PM - Flap switch install? ()
    11. 06:36 PM - Re: Flap switch install? (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
    12. 07:16 PM - LoPresti HID landing lights (dmaib@mac.com)
    13. 08:14 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (KiloPapa)
    14. 09:40 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Rene)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C | 
      alternators
      
      
      That confirms it--the Plane Power 60A DELUXE alternator is now standard in the
      FWF kit.  Either enough people were excluding or upgrading so they are just including
      it now.  This was not the case with my kit purchsed in May '07.
      
      William
      http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ 
      
      -------- Original Message --------
      > 
      > Last week I ordered my FWF kit from the list provided from Van's. This list shows
      part: ES Alternator Deluxe (60A kit w/OV protection). This is in the 2007
      Accessories Catalog from Van's on page 10. The description states that it is
      the "Plane Power" alternator.
      > 
      > Ed (40430)
      > Wings
      > 
      > -------------- Original message -------------- 
      > From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com> 
      > 
      > > 
      > > William I deleted the Vans Alt from F/ forward kit and got Aerosport to put
      
      > > on a plane power alt. I got my FF kit a year ago. 
      > > 
      > > Chris 
      > > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > > From: "William Curtis" 
      > > To: 
      > > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:50 AM 
      > > Subject: re: RV10-List: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power,
      
      > > B&C alternators 
      > > 
      > > 
      > > > 
      > > > The RV-10 firewall forward kit *use* to come with the Van's (Nippondenso)
      
      > > > 60A alternator. I can't remember who, but someone told me at OSH that 
      > > > they have replaced the Nippondenso 60A (ES ALTERNATOR 60A KIT) with the 
      > > > Plane Power 60 (ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE) in the Firewall Forward kits. I 
      > > > elected to upgrade to the PP unit for the additional $100. Can anyone 
      > > > receiving the Firewall Forward Kit recently confirm this? 
      > > > 
      > > > William 
      > > > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ 
      > > > 
      > > > -------- Original Message -------- 
      > > >> 
      > > >> I'm thinking of buying either a 60 Amp alternator made by either Plane 
      > > >> Power ($375 including internal regulator and OV from Van's) or B&C 
      > > >> ($595 + $228 for regulator & OV = $823) for my RV-10. The Plane Power 
      > > >> price and simplicity are quite appealing. I've heard good things about 
      > > >> Plane Power, and have heard of only a single failure in the field. B&C 
      > > >> also has a very good reputation. So I'm seeking experiences, both good 
      > > >> and bad, from people who have put a few hours on a Plane Power (or B&C)
      
      > > >> alternator. 
      > > >> 
      > > >> Thanks, 
      > > >> 
      > > >> Tim Lewis 
      > > >> 
      > > >> -- 
      > > >> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) 
      > > >> RV-6A N47TD -- 900 hrs 
      > > >> RV-10 #40059 under construction 
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C | 
      alter
      
      
      Also, in regards to the FWF kit, I recieved a Niagra Oil Cooler (SCT'ed) in my
      FWF kit instead of the Positech or other brands that Van's was shipping.  I guess
      Van's realized that there could/might be a an oil temp issue.
      
      Zack
      
      
      wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote:
      > That confirms it--the Plane Power 60A DELUXE alternator is now standard in the
      FWF kit.  Either enough people were excluding or upgrading so they are just
      including it now.  This was not the case with my kit purchsed in May '07.
      > 
      > William
      > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ 
      > 
      > ------
      
      
      --------
      RV8 #80125 
      RV10 # 40512
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129830#129830
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for
      dimpling and riveting.   I've had several people comment that they had some
      corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic.   The most
      recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first
      counselor visit.
      
      
      So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year
      build period,  scratches or minor corrosion.  Since all of these reports
      have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any
      corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.   
      
      
      Any strong opinions with either option?   Did anyone else find corrosion
      under the blue plastic when removed?
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      
      Bob
      
      #40684
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      
      Can not speak to the corrosion issue.  I am stripping the blue plastic from the
      empanage with was finished 2 years ago and it is coming off in small hard to
      remove pieces.
      
      I stripped the rest of the airplane as it was built.
      
      --------
      eric gohr
      EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129875#129875
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      
      I left the vinyl on the skins in the shed extremes of heat/cold,
      dry/damp for 3+ years.  Corrosion was evident, but limited to only very
      tiny areas at the vinyl edges - not worth a second thought.  The vinyl
      had hardened with age and was a little more difficult to remove, but I
      have heard that slightly heating the vinyl with a heat gun allows it to
      come off more easily
      
      Cheers,
      Ron
      -187 finishing
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of egohr1
      Sent: Monday, 20 August 2007 8:14 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Blue Plastic removal
      
      --> <EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
      
      Can not speak to the corrosion issue.  I am stripping the blue plastic
      from the empanage with was finished 2 years ago and it is coming off in
      small hard to remove pieces.
      
      I stripped the rest of the airplane as it was built.
      
      --------
      eric gohr
      EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129875#129875
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      >From my experience with several builds, the bigger issue is the difficulty
      of removing the plastic after it has been stored for several years.  In one
      extreme case I had to sand off the plastic with a power sander and z-strip
      paint remover in order to get it off.  It is true that a heat gun helps, but
      the longer it is on and the more it is subjected to sunlight, even through
      windows, the tougher it is to remove.  My solution to the scratch issue is
      to wrap the part in bubble wrap after it is completed.  That protects
      against scratches and small blows.
      
      
      Gary
      
      40274
      
      Wiring OP Tech panel
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
      Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:53 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal
      
      
      I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for
      dimpling and riveting.   I've had several people comment that they had some
      corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic.   The most
      recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first
      counselor visit.
      
      
      So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year
      build period,  scratches or minor corrosion.  Since all of these reports
      have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any
      corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.   
      
      
      Any strong opinions with either option?   Did anyone else find corrosion
      under the blue plastic when removed?
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      
      Bob
      
      #40684
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      I have had more corrosion problems from perspiration dripping on the 
      aluminum than from any blue plastic that stayed on to protect the skin.
      
      Cal Hoffman
      40119 (Instrument Panel)
      
      Do not archive
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Bob Leffler 
        To: rv10-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:53 PM
        Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      I'll echo what Gary said, it can get to be a bear to get the stuff off afte
      r a while.  I also used to do the strips but just didn't see the point anym
      ore.  Besides, you are going to scratch the hell out of it when you go to p
      aint it anyway.  And any minor filliform or other corrosion will also be re
      moved when you go to sand it.  Better to let it breath in my opinion.
      
      Michael
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
      atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
      Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:53 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal
      
      I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for d
      impling and riveting.   I've had several people comment that they had some 
      corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic.   The most re
      cent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counse
      lor visit.
      
      So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year 
      build period,  scratches or minor corrosion.  Since all of these reports ha
      ve been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corr
      osion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.
      
      Any strong opinions with either option?   Did anyone else find corrosion un
      der the blue plastic when removed?
      
      Thanks,
      
      Bob
      #40684
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane  Power, | 
      B&C alter
      
      
      I believe the Niagra is what Van has shipped for most, if not all, of the 10's.
      This is the one that most of us are talking about improving on.
      
      Michael
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
      Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:10 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Seeking good and bad experiences with Plane Power, B&C
      alter
      
      
      Also, in regards to the FWF kit, I recieved a Niagra Oil Cooler (SCT'ed) in my
      FWF kit instead of the Positech or other brands that Van's was shipping.  I guess
      Van's realized that there could/might be a an oil temp issue.
      
      Zack
      
      
      wcurtis(at)nerv10.com wrote:
      > That confirms it--the Plane Power 60A DELUXE alternator is now standard in the
      FWF kit.  Either enough people were excluding or upgrading so they are just
      including it now.  This was not the case with my kit purchsed in May '07.
      >
      > William
      > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
      >
      > ------
      
      
      --------
      RV8 #80125
      RV10 # 40512
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129830#129830
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Flap switch install? | 
      
      Where have folks installed the micro-switch on the flap system for use
      with an AOA Sport?  I checked the website, but couldn't find anything
      specific on the preferred install location.
      
      
      Pictures appreciated, if you can send them directly to my email address.
      (us digest folks don't get attachments)
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      
      TDT
      
      
      Tim Dawson-Townsend
      
      Aurora Flight Sciences
      
      tdt@aurora.aero 
      
      617-500-4812 (office)
      
      617-905-4800 (mobile)
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Flap switch install? | 
      
      
      i took the easy way and did not install the switch.
      
      Just set mine for flaps up stall indication.
      
      Works like a champ with the docile stall characteristics of the bird.
      
      grumpy
      N184JM 60+ hours and now into painting it
      
      In a message dated 8/19/2007 8:33:13 PM Central Standard Time, 
      tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero writes:
      
      Where have folks installed the micro-switch on the flap system for use with 
      an AOA Sport?  I checked the website, but couldn=99t find anything spe
      cific on 
      the preferred install location. 
      Pictures appreciated, if you can send them directly to my email address.  (u
      s 
      digest folks don=99t get attachments) 
      Thanks, 
      
      TDT 
      Tim Dawson-Townsend 
      Aurora Flight Sciences 
      _tdt@aurora.aero_ (mailto:tdt@aurora.aero)   
      617-500-4812 (office) 
      617-905-4800 (mobile) 
      
      
      t 
      http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | LoPresti HID landing lights | 
      
      
      We purchased a set of the LoPresti HID landing lights for the RV-10 at Sun n' Fun
      last April. The kit is superb and the drawings and plans are very good. We
      ran into a major disappointment today, however. I want to stress that this is
      not a LoPresti problem, but rather a poor planning problem with me. We have purchased
      and installed the SafeAir1 Extended Range fuel tanks. As we began the
      process of fitting the wing tips and installing the lighting, I began to be concerned
      about the HID kit fitting into the wingtip with the tanks. However, it
      looked like it just might work by moving the position of the ballast assembly
      for the lights. We found out today, that the two kits are not compatible. The
      HID kit simply will not fit into the wingtip with the ER tanks, even with major
      modifications. We learned a good lesson!
      
      So, I wanted to send the list a heads up if anyone is considering this particular
      combination.
      
      David and Mary Maib
      40559 QB
      "Sadder but wiser"
      
      --------
      David Maib
      RV-10 #40559
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=129900#129900
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      Howdy,  You may find the vinyl coating difficult to remove after a 2-3 
      year period.  Here is an excerpt from "Materials used in RV Airframes 
      (Section 5) Part 1" located in the construction section of Van's 
      website.
      
      5M VINYL COATING
      Many of the alclad parts are supplied with a thin (usually blue) vinyl 
      coating to prevent scratching during the
      manufacturing of the parts. The vinyl may be left on during drilling but 
      should be removed for dimpling, priming and
      final installation. It is possible to remove strips of vinyl along rivet 
      lines with a soldering iron. Carefully round and
      smooth the tip of the iron so it won't scratch the aluminum.
      
      The adhesive on the vinyl strengthens with age, so if the coating is 
      left on for more than a few weeks, it may become very difficult to 
      remove. 
      Corrosion has been found under the vinyl in some instances. If vinyl 
      covered parts
      must be stored for long periods, remove the vinyl first.
      
      Kevin
      40494
      tail/empennage
      
      do not archive
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -------
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Bob Leffler 
      Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 2:53 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal
      
      I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow 
      for dimpling and riveting.   I've had several people comment that they 
      had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic.   
      The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for 
      my first counselor visit.
      
      So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 
      year build period,  scratches or minor corrosion.  Since all of these 
      reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that 
      had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the 
      build.   
      
      Any strong opinions with either option?   Did anyone else find corrosion 
      under the blue plastic when removed?
      
      Thanks,
      
      Bob
      #40684
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Blue Plastic removal | 
      
      I just removed mine from the completed fuselage.  The plastic has been on
      for 1.5 to 2.5 years.  No corrosion and not hard to remove.
      
      
      Rene'
      
      40322
      
      Fisnish...paint
      
      801-721-6080
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
      Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 3:53 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Blue Plastic removal
      
      
      I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for
      dimpling and riveting.   I've had several people comment that they had some
      corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic.   The most
      recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first
      counselor visit.
      
      
      So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year
      build period,  scratches or minor corrosion.  Since all of these reports
      have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any
      corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.   
      
      
      Any strong opinions with either option?   Did anyone else find corrosion
      under the blue plastic when removed?
      
      
      Thanks,
      
      
      Bob
      
      #40684
      
      
 
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