Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:14 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (Bob Leffler)
2. 03:33 AM - Wingtip lens (ddnebert)
3. 04:53 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (John Testement)
4. 04:58 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (John Testement)
5. 05:39 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (Jesse Saint)
6. 05:41 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Jesse Saint)
7. 06:06 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Tim Olson)
8. 06:22 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
9. 06:31 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
10. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (LES KEARNEY)
11. 07:11 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (pascal)
12. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 07:15 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (linn Walters)
14. 07:22 AM - Re: Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight ()
15. 07:37 AM - Re: Protecting Fiberglass Parts (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
16. 07:40 AM - Re: Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
17. 08:29 AM - Re: Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (John W. Cox)
18. 08:31 AM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (carlos)
19. 10:15 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (David Maib)
20. 11:00 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Jesse Saint)
21. 11:19 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Tim Olson)
22. 11:19 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (Deems Davis)
23. 11:49 AM - Re: Wingtip lens (John Testement)
24. 12:28 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (carlos)
25. 12:48 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (David Maib)
26. 12:51 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (David Maib)
27. 01:18 PM - Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight (John Gonzalez)
28. 01:53 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Scott Schmidt)
29. 03:13 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (John Testement)
30. 03:44 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Deems Davis)
31. 04:00 PM - Re: autopilot install (pascal)
32. 04:23 PM - Re: Re: autopilot install (Tim Olson)
33. 04:43 PM - Re: Re: autopilot install (Deems Davis)
34. 05:04 PM - Here's something I just received direct from the President of Op Technologies (Deems Davis)
35. 05:29 PM - was Re: Re: autopilot install- now which one? (pascal)
36. 05:34 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Larry Rosen)
37. 06:03 PM - Re: was Re: Re: autopilot install- now which one? (Deems Davis)
38. 06:47 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (David Maib)
39. 06:51 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Robin Marks)
40. 06:59 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (ddnebert)
41. 07:18 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Tim Olson)
42. 07:21 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Deems Davis)
43. 08:02 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (David Maib)
44. 08:03 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (David Maib)
45. 08:36 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Marcus Cooper)
46. 10:37 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
My concern is that the where the other hole is located is right at the rim
of the dimple. It appears that the factory head, even for an oops rivet may
not cover the mistake. Also, this is the bottom skin, so it should have the
shop head of the rivet on this side (remember this is the trailing edge).
The shop head of an oops rivet will certainly be larger.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Any chance you can drill it to a 30 and use an oops rivet?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and was
pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect, Murphy
showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn't all that good, but
you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now elongated. This
is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of the elevator.
I see my options as:
1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn't look too bad.
3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will keep
things together.
Thoughts, comments?
Thanks,
Bob
__________ NOD32 2490 (20070829) Information __________
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I have installed the wingtip lights and need to cut and install the clear plastic
lens on the end. What tool should I use to cut and trim what seems to be a
somewhat flexible plastic? Words of advice here?
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=131512#131512
Message 3
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I used a Dremmel tool with a cutoff disk to rough cut and sandpaper to
finish. Best if the glass is not cold (shouldn't be an issue in this hot
weather)
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddnebert
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
I have installed the wingtip lights and need to cut and install the clear
plastic lens on the end. What tool should I use to cut and trim what seems
to be a somewhat flexible plastic? Words of advice here?
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=131512#131512
4:29 PM
4:29 PM
Message 4
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Bob,
I ended up filling all of the trailing edge rivets with either metal
filler
(Evercoat) before priming of with polyester filler (Easy Sand) after
priming. You may be able to just fill this during finishing.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
My concern is that the where the other hole is located is right at the
rim
of the dimple. It appears that the factory head, even for an oops rivet
may
not cover the mistake. Also, this is the bottom skin, so it should have
the
shop head of the rivet on this side (remember this is the trailing
edge).
The shop head of an oops rivet will certainly be larger.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Any chance you can drill it to a 30 and use an oops rivet?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and
was
pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
Murphy
showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn=92t all that good,
but
you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it=92s now elongated.
This
is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of the elevator.
I see my options as:
1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn=92t look too bad.
3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will
keep
things together.
Thoughts, comments?
Thanks,
Bob
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
__________ NOD32 2490 (20070829) Information __________
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
8/28/2007
4:29 PM
8/28/2007
4:29 PM
Message 5
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
As was already mentioned, it is the bottom skin, so the shop head of the
rivet will fill it. You can either use an Oops rivet or just use a longer
#3 rivet to fill the additional area. If you are worried about looks,
that will probably be filled when you fill the seam between the fairing
and the skin on the elevator. I don't know that I would be too worried
about the structural aspect of it. If you were worried, then you could
add an additional hole between that and the next good hole, although this
might be best done after the trailing edge is finished, in which case you
would need to machine countersink both sides, in which case the shop head
might not hold well on the bottom skin anyway. I doubt it is worth
replacing the skin, but that's up to you.
In the future, if you miss a hole, make sure to do it in a place that can
be easily filled with a simple rivet through the skin. :-)
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
John Testement wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I ended up filling all of the trailing edge rivets with either metal
> filler
> (Evercoat) before priming of with polyester filler (Easy Sand) after
> priming. You may be able to just fill this during finishing.
>
> John Testement
> HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
> do not archive
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
> My concern is that the where the other hole is located is right at the rim
> of the dimple. It appears that the factory head, even for an oops rivet
> may
> not cover the mistake. Also, this is the bottom skin, so it should have
> the
> shop head of the rivet on this side (remember this is the trailing edge).
> The shop head of an oops rivet will certainly be larger.
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
> Any chance you can drill it to a 30 and use an oops rivet?
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
> While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and was
> pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
> Murphy
> showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isnt all that good, but
> you can clearly see that I missed the hole and its now elongated. This
> is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of the elevator.
>
>
> I see my options as:
>
>
> 1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
> 2. Find a way to make a repair that doesnt look too bad.
>
>
> 3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will keep
> things together.
>
>
> Thoughts, comments?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2490 (20070829) Information __________
>
>
> "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
> ator?RV10-List
>
>
> "http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> 8/28/2007
> 4:29 PM
>
> 8/28/2007
> 4:29 PM
>
>
Message 6
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Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
John Testement wrote:
> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
> I used a Dremmel tool with a cutoff disk to rough cut and sandpaper to
> finish. Best if the glass is not cold (shouldn't be an issue in this hot
> weather)
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
> do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddnebert
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:33 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
>
>
> I have installed the wingtip lights and need to cut and install the clear
> plastic lens on the end. What tool should I use to cut and trim what seems
> to be a somewhat flexible plastic? Words of advice here?
>
> --------
> RV-10 Builder #40546
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=131512#131512
>
>
> 4:29 PM
>
>
> 4:29 PM
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
This is exactly what I did....snips to rough cut, die grinder with
cutoff wheel to get closer. Then I think a vixen file or sander to
get it right where I wanted it, with of course fine sanding when
finishing to prevent cracking.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
> getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
> tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
> the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> John Testement wrote:
>> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>>
>> I used a Dremmel tool with a cutoff disk to rough cut and sandpaper to
>> finish. Best if the glass is not cold (shouldn't be an issue in this hot
>> weather)
>>
>> John Testement
>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
>> 40321
>> Richmond, VA
>> Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddnebert
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:33 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
>>
>>
>> I have installed the wingtip lights and need to cut and install the clear
>> plastic lens on the end. What tool should I use to cut and trim what seems
>> to be a somewhat flexible plastic? Words of advice here?
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 Builder #40546
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=131512#131512
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 4:29 PM
>>
>>
>> 4:29 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge together. But
in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge because you
would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already a tight
area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly longer rivet,
and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and then fill
the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with proseal and
sand it flat.
Just my .02
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and
was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn't all that
good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
elongated. This is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of
the elevator.
I see my options as:
1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn't look too bad.
3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will
keep things together.
Thoughts, comments?
Thanks,
Bob
Message 9
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
If you use an oops on the wedge, you will end up with the shop head side
being way too big on the backside that is exposed for people to see, IE
it will be real easy to see a -4 shop head when everything else is a -3.
If the small extra dimple is bothering you, wait until you have a -4 in
a line of -3's....but by the time you get to the end you will have
forgotten about it, right up until Smoozer comes up and looks at the
trailing edge and asks what you did there! LOL
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
My concern is that the where the other hole is located is right at the
rim of the dimple. It appears that the factory head, even for an oops
rivet may not cover the mistake. Also, this is the bottom skin, so it
should have the shop head of the rivet on this side (remember this is
the trailing edge). The shop head of an oops rivet will certainly be
larger.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Any chance you can drill it to a 30 and use an oops rivet?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and
was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn't all that
good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
elongated. This is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of
the elevator.
I see my options as:
1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn't look too bad.
3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will
keep things together.
Thoughts, comments?
Thanks,
Bob
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
__________ NOD32 2490 (20070829) Information __________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Hmmm
What is the roleof the proseal in this aplicaton. I would hav thought that it is
not structural but is merely holding the parts in alignment when setting up
prior to rivetting etc.
Inquiring minds need to know....
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
> Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
> proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge
> together. But
> in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge
> because you
> would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already
> a tight
> area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly
> longer rivet,
> and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and
> then fill
> the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with
> proseal and
> sand it flat.
> Just my .02
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>
> While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting
> tired and
> was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you
> might suspect,
> Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture
> isn't all that
> good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
> elongated. This is the bottom outside corner
> of the trailing edge of
> the elevator.
>
>
>
> I see my options as:
>
>
>
> 1. The anal perfectionist in
> me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
>
> 2. Find a way to make a
> repair that doesn't look too bad.
>
>
>
> 3. Whatcha worried about,
> just keep building, the proseal will
> keep things together.
>
>
>
> Thoughts, comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
flip the rivet over and have the smaller rivet head on the top side. Tim
and others have riveted in opposite directions with their trailing edges
so it's not uncommon.
Been there myself than when all was done I realized I couldn't even find
some of my mistakes unless I specifically look for it.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 3:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
My concern is that the where the other hole is located is right at the
rim of the dimple. It appears that the factory head, even for an oops
rivet may not cover the mistake. Also, this is the bottom skin, so it
should have the shop head of the rivet on this side (remember this is
the trailing edge). The shop head of an oops rivet will certainly be
larger.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:42 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Any chance you can drill it to a 30 and use an oops rivet?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:16 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and
was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn't all that
good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
elongated. This is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of
the elevator.
I see my options as:
1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn't look too bad.
3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will
keep things together.
Thoughts, comments?
Thanks,
Bob
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
__________ NOD32 2490 (20070829) Information __________
Message 12
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Correct.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Hmmm
What is the roleof the proseal in this aplicaton. I would hav thought that
it is not structural but is merely holding the parts in alignment when sett
ing up prior to rivetting etc.
Inquiring minds need to know....
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
> Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
> proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge
> together. But
> in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge
> because you
> would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already
> a tight
> area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly
> longer rivet,
> and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and
> then fill
> the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with
> proseal and
> sand it flat.
> Just my .02
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
> While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting
> tired and
> was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you
> might suspect,
> Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture
> isn't all that
> good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
> elongated. This is the bottom outside corner
> of the trailing edge of
> the elevator.
>
>
> I see my options as:
>
>
> 1. The anal perfectionist in
> me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
> 2. Find a way to make a
> repair that doesn't look too bad.
>
>
> 3. Whatcha worried about,
> just keep building, the proseal will
> keep things together.
>
>
> Thoughts, comments?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
>getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
>tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
>the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
>
Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
Linn
>
>do not archive
>
>Jesse Saint
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>jesse@saintaviation.com
>www.saintaviation.com
>352-427-0285
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Actually, Rick has given a suggestion that hasn't been mentioned here yet. Since
he fiberglassed his tips, the last rivet will be hidden under the transition,
so whether or not I use a longer rivet or an oops rivet, it would be hidden
and add additional support.
The lesson I learned that if you get tired, just stop, even if you only have a
little bit more to complete the task at hand.
Thanks for all the feedback!
>
> From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> Date: 2007/08/29 Wed AM 08:30:57 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
> If you use an oops on the wedge, you will end up with the shop head side
> being way too big on the backside that is exposed for people to see, IE
> it will be real easy to see a -4 shop head when everything else is a -3.
> If the small extra dimple is bothering you, wait until you have a -4 in
> a line of -3's....but by the time you get to the end you will have
> forgotten about it, right up until Smoozer comes up and looks at the
> trailing edge and asks what you did there! LOL
> Dan
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>
> My concern is that the where the other hole is located is right at the
> rim of the dimple. It appears that the factory head, even for an oops
> rivet may not cover the mistake. Also, this is the bottom skin, so it
> should have the shop head of the rivet on this side (remember this is
> the trailing edge). The shop head of an oops rivet will certainly be
> larger.
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>
> Any chance you can drill it to a 30 and use an oops rivet?
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 8:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>
> While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and
> was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
> Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn't all that
> good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
> elongated. This is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of
> the elevator.
>
>
>
> I see my options as:
>
>
>
> 1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
>
> 2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn't look too bad.
>
>
>
> 3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will
> keep things together.
>
>
>
> Thoughts, comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2490 (20070829) Information __________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Protecting Fiberglass Parts |
Thanks for the advice, guys. I plan on rolling on a few coats of UV smooth
prime to protect the fiberglass. I've already got a can laying around somewh
ere
in the shop.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 8/28/2007 9:19:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder@sausen.net writes:
I believe you need something with a very high solids content in order to
protect from UV which is the primary concern. Just painting it won
=99t do the
job. I=99ve seen fiberglass microwave antennas that were painted with
a rattle
can paint and a year later it was in rough shape.
If it was me I would spend the extra couple $ and put on a coat of UV
Smoothprime even if it means sanding it off later just to do it again. It
takes
surprising little time for UV to degrade fiberglass and make it brittle.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Protecting Fiberglass Parts
I've realized it is going to be while before I get paint on my RV-10 so I
think I need to put something on the fiberglass parts to keep them from bei
ng
damaged from sunlight. It is hangared so it only gets exposed when flying o
r
parked at a destination airfield. I was thinking of just putting a coat of
some inexpensive Rustoleum primer on all the exposed fiberglass, do you thi
nk
that will that provide the UV protection necessary?
-Jim
40134
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
t
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 16
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
It is only there for alignment during the riveting, but it will also add
some adhesion, plus it will fill the hole and is sandable/ paintable.
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Hmmm
What is the roleof the proseal in this aplicaton. I would hav thought
that it is not structural but is merely holding the parts in alignment
when setting up prior to rivetting etc.
Inquiring minds need to know....
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
> Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
> proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge
> together. But
> in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge
> because you
> would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already
> a tight
> area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly
> longer rivet,
> and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and
> then fill
> the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with
> proseal and
> sand it flat.
> Just my .02
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>
> While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting
> tired and
> was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you
> might suspect,
> Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture
> isn't all that
> good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
> elongated. This is the bottom outside corner
> of the trailing edge of
> the elevator.
>
>
>
> I see my options as:
>
>
>
> 1. The anal perfectionist in
> me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
>
> 2. Find a way to make a
> repair that doesn't look too bad.
>
>
>
> 3. Whatcha worried about,
> just keep building, the proseal will
> keep things together.
>
>
>
> Thoughts, comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Proseal has no effective purpose in the assemblage of a structural
member. It has lots of great uses but this would not be one. Larger
rivets when used on control surfaces create balance issues which VANS
will tell you are not important. Then Ken Scott can repeat his
presentation on "Flutter".
Bondo is cosmetic. It brings back memories of fiberglass resin being
used for everything back in the 60's. Enough has been said to allow Bob
the chance to do it right.
John
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
Hmmm
What is the roleof the proseal in this aplicaton. I would hav thought
that it is not structural but is merely holding the parts in alignment
when setting up prior to rivetting etc.
Inquiring minds need to know....
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
> Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
> proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge
> together. But
> in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge
> because you
> would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already
> a tight
> area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly
> longer rivet,
> and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and
> then fill
> the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with
> proseal and
> sand it flat.
> Just my .02
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>
> While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting
> tired and
> was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you
> might suspect,
> Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture
> isn't all that
> good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
> elongated. This is the bottom outside corner
> of the trailing edge of
> the elevator.
>
>
>
> I see my options as:
>
>
>
> 1. The anal perfectionist in
> me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
>
> 2. Find a way to make a
> repair that doesn't look too bad.
>
>
>
> 3. Whatcha worried about,
> just keep building, the proseal will
> keep things together.
>
>
>
> Thoughts, comments?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
/"it is not structural but is merely holding the parts in alignment when
setting up prior to riveting"/
Almost verbatim from Ken at Vans when I called on a VERY similar question.
Carlos
LES KEARNEY wrote:
> Hmmm
>
> What is the roleof the proseal in this aplicaton. I would hav thought
> that it is not structural but is merely holding the parts in alignment
> when setting up prior to rivetting etc.
>
> Inquiring minds need to know....
>
> Les Kearney
> #40643
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
> Date: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 7:38 am
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> > Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
> > proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge
> > together. But
> > in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge
> > because you
> > would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already
> > a tight
> > area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly
> > longer rivet,
> > and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and
> > then fill
> > the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with
> > proseal and
> > sand it flat.
> > Just my .02
> > Dan
> > N289DT RV10E
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
> >
> >
> >
> > While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting
> > tired and
> > was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you
> > might suspect,
> > Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture
> > isn't all that
> > good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
> > elongated. This is the bottom outside corner
> > of the trailing edge of
> > the elevator.
> >
> >
> >
> > I see my options as:
> >
> >
> >
> > 1. The anal perfectionist in
> > me wants to order a new skin.
> >
> >
> >
> > 2. Find a way to make a
> > repair that doesn't look too bad.
> >
> >
> >
> > 3. Whatcha worried about,
> > just keep building, the proseal will
> > keep things together.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thoughts, comments?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are wondering
if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called out in the plans.
It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called for. What have
others done?
David Maib
40559
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
>
>Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>>
>>Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
>>getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
>>tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
>>the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
>>
>Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>Linn
>
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>www.saintaviation.com
>>352-427-0285
>>
>
>
Message 20
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|
We have put a couple extra on the edge running front and back, not on the
sides.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are
wondering if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called
out in the plans. It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called
for. What have others done?
David Maib
40559
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters"
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>>
>>Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
>>getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
>>tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
>>the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
>>
>Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>Linn
>
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>www.saintaviation.com
>>352-427-0285
>>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
I believe I added at least one more on each edge, in the middle.
It may have been 2 more. I just couldn't trust that 2 screws
would hold it forever. Also, it fits tighter and nicer with
more screws in my case.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David Maib wrote:
>
> On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are wondering
if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called out in the plans.
It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called for. What have
others done?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
> On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
>>
>> Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
>>> getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
>>> tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
>>> the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
>>>
>> Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>> chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>> for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>> Linn
>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>>> www.saintaviation.com
>>> 352-427-0285
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Here's what I did.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2024%20Wing%20Tips/slides/DSC02085.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
David Maib wrote:
> What have others done?
>
Message 23
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I would suggest you consider using Click-bond fasteners to attach the lens
instead of riveted platenuts. They worked much better for me.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are
wondering if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called
out in the plans. It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called
for. What have others done?
David Maib
40559
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters"
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
>Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>>--> <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>
>>Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder
>>for getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You
>>can use tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that
>>very close to the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting
that way.
>>
>Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>Linn
>
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>www.saintaviation.com
>>352-427-0285
>>
>
>
4:29 PM
4:29 PM
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
I'm building a -7A but you guys are giving me great ideas! For that I
thank you! Has any one used the EZ-Point Nut & Stud from ACS for this
type of thing? I think that would look nice at the lens. Glass em' from
the back and all you'd see is the screw thru the lens and into the tip.
Carlos in AZ
John Testement wrote:
>
> I would suggest you consider using Click-bond fasteners to attach the lens
> instead of riveted platenuts. They worked much better for me.
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
> do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
>
>
> On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are
> wondering if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called
> out in the plans. It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called
> for. What have others done?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
> On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters"
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> --> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>
>>> Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder
>>> for getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You
>>> can use tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that
>>> very close to the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting
>>>
> that way.
>
>> Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>> chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>> for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>> Linn
>>
>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>>> www.saintaviation.com
>>> 352-427-0285
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 4:29 PM
>
>
> 4:29 PM
>
>
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 25
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John,
That sounds like a good idea. Do you have any photo's of your installation?
Thanks,
David Maib
40559
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 01:59PM, "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
wrote:
>
>I would suggest you consider using Click-bond fasteners to attach the lens
>instead of riveted platenuts. They worked much better for me.
>
>John Testement
>jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
>40321
>Richmond, VA
>Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff
>do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
>Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:15 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
>
>
> On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are
>wondering if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called
>out in the plans. It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called
>for. What have others done?
>
>David Maib
>40559
>
>On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters"
><pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>>--> <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>
>>>Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder
>>>for getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You
>>>can use tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that
>>>very close to the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting
>that way.
>>>
>>Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>>chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>>for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>>Linn
>>
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>352-427-0285
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>4:29 PM
>
>
>4:29 PM
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Thanks Deems,
That is exactly what I had in mind.
David Maib
40559
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 01:27PM, "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
>Here's what I did.
>
>http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2024%20Wing%20Tips/slides/DSC02085.html
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>David Maib wrote:
>> What have others done?
>>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | FW: Dimple challenged tonight |
Exactly my opinion aswell.
One additional thing you can do is glue in the fiberglass wingtip to take
more of the strain off the corner rivet with the bad hole. Make sure to glue
both rt and lf wingtips to keep it all syimetrical. make sure your botched
dimple fits well into the wedge countersink!!!!!!
This will not even show if you do a good job.
Remember, In WWll, a bullet hole in the skins didn't ground a plane and they
didn't put a new skin on either.
John G. 409 Hiatus, Last soaring day coming up this weekend.
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2007 09:22:17 -0400
>
>Like everyone else is saying, rivet it and move on, you will have
>proseal and several other rivets to hold the trailing edge together. But
>in my opinion, I would not use an oops in the trailing edge because you
>would have to enlarge the hole in the wedge, and this is already a tight
>area. I would do as Jesse recommends and put in a slightly longer rivet,
>and be careful when setting it, so it does not cleat over and then fill
>the exposed hole, which is already backed by the wedge with proseal and
>sand it flat.
>Just my .02
>Dan
>N289DT RV10E
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
>Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:16 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: FW: Dimple challenged tonight
>
>
>While dimpling the skins of the elevator, I started getting tired and
>was pushing myself to complete the tasks at hand. As you might suspect,
>Murphy showed up and I screwed up. The attached picture isn't all that
>good, but you can clearly see that I missed the hole and it's now
>elongated. This is the bottom outside corner of the trailing edge of
>the elevator.
>
>
>I see my options as:
>
>
>1. The anal perfectionist in me wants to order a new skin.
>
>
>2. Find a way to make a repair that doesn't look too bad.
>
>
>3. Whatcha worried about, just keep building, the proseal will
>keep things together.
>
>
>Thoughts, comments?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Bob
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Just to be the different one, I used only two screws and I have a great fit
and so far I've had no problems. =0AI've flown near the Vne 200 kts TAS a
nd no problems. Adding more screws makes sense though. =0AIt is not like
you take the lens on and off very often and it doesn't hurt. =0ASo those of
you with 2 screws, don't get too nervous. It will work great and you will
be able to care a couple more =0Adimes in your pockets at gross. =0A =0ASc
ott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Message 29
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David,
I replaced the platenuts at the paint shop and did not take pix. When I get
some later I'll post them.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 3:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
John,
That sounds like a good idea. Do you have any photo's of your installation?
Thanks,
David Maib
40559
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 01:59PM, "John Testement"
<jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> wrote:
>--> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
>I would suggest you consider using Click-bond fasteners to attach the
>lens instead of riveted platenuts. They worked much better for me.
>
>John Testement
>jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
>40321
>Richmond, VA
>Paint prep, interior, and LOTS of little stuff do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
>Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:15 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
>
>
> On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are
>wondering if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two
>called out in the plans. It seems like a couple more along the edge
>might be called for. What have others done?
>
>David Maib
>40559
>
>On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters"
><pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>>--> <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>>
>>>Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder
>>>for getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You
>>>can use tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that
>>>very close to the final line because the plastic can fracture from
>>>cutting
>that way.
>>>
>>Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>>chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not
>>FG) for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>>Linn
>>
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>>jesse@saintaviation.com
>>>www.saintaviation.com
>>>352-427-0285
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>4:29 PM
>
>
>4:29 PM
>
>
>
4:29 PM
4:29 PM
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Here's another idea that 'hides' the nut plates and I think gives a bit
of decoration.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/LED%20Nav%20&%20Strobes/slides/DSC02219.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: autopilot install |
I am looking for things to wait on, like the autopilot and aileron trim
until I'm flying and determine what would work best based on real flying
experience, in addition to cutting initial costs of building.How hard is
it to install the ap and trim servos after the wings are closed versus
doing it while I have the bottom wing open?Is it worth doing it now? I
know I can buy just the servos from TT and deal with the AP later but I
still want to know how hard it is now versus after completion.Thanks!
Pascal
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: autopilot install |
Three points:
1) Installing those things isn't too bad after the skins are on, but
installing them after the wing is mounted and out of a cradle
would be a real pain. I can see defraying the cost for a while,
but to wait until you're flying will just make you miserable later.
2) 95%+ of the RV-10's out there will probably just have a TruTrak AP,
and most people will want both pitch and roll servos. You just can't
go wrong with what they have to offer. So, sure, you can wait and
figure it out later if you want, but chances are, you're going to do
just what is the most common anyway.
3) You could skip aileron trim if you really want to. You may not
even miss it all that much. But if you're going to install it, it would
be easiest to do before the wing is mounted. Yeah, there is more than
one system available, but pretty much any aileron trim system will be
OK at dealing with the out-of-trim that the RV-10 will encounter...so
again, just going with the "standard" might just save you headaches
down the road.
Of course, if you are so into the building process that you want to
have a very long term project, even post-flight time, then sure,
you could experiment with tons of things over time. Experimenting
though usually either costs, in either time, or money. The nice
thing is that there are some "known good" things you can do that
shave off the time for you.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
pascal wrote:
> I am looking for things to wait on, like the autopilot and aileron trim
> until I'm flying and determine what would work best based on real flying
> experience, in addition to cutting initial costs of building.How hard is
> it to install the ap and trim servos after the wings are closed versus
> doing it while I have the bottom wing open?Is it worth doing it now? I
> know I can buy just the servos from TT and deal with the AP later but I
> still want to know how hard it is now versus after completion.Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> *
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: autopilot install |
Tim Olson wrote:
> then sure,
> you could experiment with tons of things over time. Experimenting
> though usually either costs, in either time, or money.
Amen! Usually both!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 34
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| Subject: | Here's something I just received direct from the President |
of Op Technologies
In response to an e-mail I sent earlier today I just received this from
Dexter Turner who was the Owner/President of OP and now VP of Display
Products @ Aerosonic.
Deems,
We are working to get the attached letter out to everyone. It went out to
Dealers yesterday because that was a smaller list and now we are compiling a
complete customer list to sent it out to. If you are able to post this to
any of the RV builders sites, chat areas, etc. that would be a big help to
get the word out too. The bottom line is that this is a positive
development for the product because we now have a publicly traded company
that has been in business over 50 years behind us and their motivation is to
expand our business.
Best regards,
Dexter Turner
Aerosonic
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis [mailto:deemsdavis@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: How about a letter from you to your customers regarding the
acquisition?
Dexter, I called the ph # today and was answered by Aerosonics
receptionist. I had heard the news about the acquisition, and decided to
remain calm and wait for 'more news' The mail lists have been buzzing. I
was really happy to see the improved customer service responsiveness to
customers this past year, and while I sit here waiting for a return call
from tech support, my anxiety level is increasing. I hope this is indeed
a good thing for you and for your customers, and sincerely hope that
Aerosonic doesn't abandon the experimental roots as it looks to the gold
mine of certified and military business.
An e-mail/letter from you to your customers would go a long way to
reassuring us that we're still your customers.
Thanks
Deems Davis RV-10
623 218 6442 home
623 521 2000 mobile
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: autopilot install- now which one? |
As always, thanks for the insight Tim. Want simple; tried and true, will go
with Trutrak the problem is do I spend $2350 for a top notch servo to fit
the RV-10ap, and sorcerer or will the simple $1000 cut it.. that is my
dilemma.
So survey here (for everyone):
which AP version was bought and would get/recommend (trutrak only) based on
flying the RV-10.
Is the Van's Aileron trim equal to the Aerotrim Jesse keeps suggesting?
either one work better in one way.. etc.
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: autopilot install
>
> Three points:
>
> 1) Installing those things isn't too bad after the skins are on, but
> installing them after the wing is mounted and out of a cradle
> would be a real pain. I can see defraying the cost for a while,
> but to wait until you're flying will just make you miserable later.
>
> 2) 95%+ of the RV-10's out there will probably just have a TruTrak AP,
> and most people will want both pitch and roll servos. You just can't
> go wrong with what they have to offer. So, sure, you can wait and
> figure it out later if you want, but chances are, you're going to do
> just what is the most common anyway.
>
> 3) You could skip aileron trim if you really want to. You may not
> even miss it all that much. But if you're going to install it, it would
> be easiest to do before the wing is mounted. Yeah, there is more than
> one system available, but pretty much any aileron trim system will be
> OK at dealing with the out-of-trim that the RV-10 will encounter...so
> again, just going with the "standard" might just save you headaches
> down the road.
>
> Of course, if you are so into the building process that you want to
> have a very long term project, even post-flight time, then sure,
> you could experiment with tons of things over time. Experimenting
> though usually either costs, in either time, or money. The nice
> thing is that there are some "known good" things you can do that
> shave off the time for you.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> pascal wrote:
>> I am looking for things to wait on, like the autopilot and aileron trim
>> until I'm flying and determine what would work best based on real flying
>> experience, in addition to cutting initial costs of building.How hard is
>> it to install the ap and trim servos after the wings are closed versus
>> doing it while I have the bottom wing open?Is it worth doing it now? I
>> know I can buy just the servos from TT and deal with the AP later but I
>> still want to know how hard it is now versus after completion.Thanks!
>> Pascal
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
I thought it needed more screws. Here are links to two photos.
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/Tips/slides/2005-12-10_RV10-014.html>
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/Tips/slides/2005-12-10_RV10-015.html>
Larry Rosen
David Maib wrote:
>
> On the subject of wingtip lenses, we finished the first one and are wondering
if anyone sees a need to use more fasteners than the two called out in the plans.
It seems like a couple more along the edge might be called for. What have
others done?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
> On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:25AM, "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
>
>>
>> Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Same here. Using a rough grit sanding disk on an angle die grinder for
>>> getting it close and a fine grit for finishing also works. You can use
>>> tin snips to get it started, but you don't want to use that very close to
>>> the final line because the plastic can fracture from cutting that way.
>>>
>>>
>> Using the tin snips to cut the plastic lens under water MAY lessen the
>> chances of fracture. I've used this method to cut thin glass (not FG)
>> for instrument and meter lenses, but never tried it with plastics.
>> Linn
>>
>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>>> www.saintaviation.com
>>> 352-427-0285
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: autopilot install- now which one? |
Pascal, I may be wrong, as I'm electron challenged, but I believe that
the Tru Trak AP requires their servos, not sure they will work with
others. IIRC TT either updated their servo or recommmended one of their
larger servo's for the -10.
I went with the Digiflight VSVG , with vertical steering from the OP (in
development but not yet available) I can fly WAAS overlay approaches and
will not require the ILS from the Sorcerer. (At least that's what my
reasoning has been to this point :-\ ).
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
pascal wrote:
>
> As always, thanks for the insight Tim. Want simple; tried and true,
> will go with Trutrak the problem is do I spend $2350 for a top notch
> servo to fit the RV-10ap, and sorcerer or will the simple $1000 cut
> it.. that is my dilemma.
> So survey here (for everyone):
> which AP version was bought and would get/recommend (trutrak only)
> based on flying the RV-10.
> Is the Van's Aileron trim equal to the Aerotrim Jesse keeps
> suggesting? either one work better in one way.. etc.
>
> Thanks!
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
That really looks great, Deems. Is that your airplane? What is the material that
is covering the nut plates?
David
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 05:53PM, "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
>Here's another idea that 'hides' the nut plates and I think gives a bit
>of decoration.
>
>http://deemsrv10.com/album/LED%20Nav%20&%20Strobes/slides/DSC02219.html
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>>
>
>
Message 39
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I also thought we needed a few more screws:
That should do it!
Robin
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Thanks, all. I'll try the cutoff wheel approach I think. I got the strobes (from
strobes-n-more with controller for $149 total), position lights (from SNF vendor
with glass globes for $50 each, and the halogen landing lights installed.
Took time out tonight to pressure test the fuel tanks using the valve and balloon
and soapsuds method. Pleased to report it worked wonderfully and I have not
a single leak! Now to screw the fuel tanks back on completely and install the
heated pitot ('50s era Kollsman) before attacking the bottom skins. That's
the plan this weekend - finish the wings!
OK, now - any suggestions on where to find glass globes to cover the strobes? I
know it'll be inside the plexiglass but think extra protection is in order...
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=131704#131704
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tank_test_874.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtip_lights_105.jpg
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Amazing what photoshop can do. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
> I also thought we needed a few more screws:
>
> That should do it!
>
> Robin
>
> wingtip.jpg
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
It's mine and all it is is silver rattle can paint applied from the
inside of the lens. Jeff Bordelon (my LED nav/strobe lite guy) did this
to his plane and I shamelessly copied it!
Deems
David Maib wrote:
>
> That really looks great, Deems. Is that your airplane? What is the material that
is covering the nut plates?
>
> David
>
> On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 05:53PM, "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
wrote:
>
>>
>> Here's another idea that 'hides' the nut plates and I think gives a bit
>> of decoration.
>>
>> http://deemsrv10.com/album/LED%20Nav%20&%20Strobes/slides/DSC02219.html
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
And I shall shamelessly copy both of you! ^_^
David
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:27PM, "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
>It's mine and all it is is silver rattle can paint applied from the
>inside of the lens. Jeff Bordelon (my LED nav/strobe lite guy) did this
>to his plane and I shamelessly copied it!
>
>Deems
>
>David Maib wrote:
>>
>> That really looks great, Deems. Is that your airplane? What is the material
that is covering the nut plates?
>>
>> David
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 05:53PM, "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Here's another idea that 'hides' the nut plates and I think gives a bit
>>> of decoration.
>>>
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/album/LED%20Nav%20&%20Strobes/slides/DSC02219.html
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 44
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Now that looks like a "nuclear hardened" wingtip lens!
David
On Wednesday, August 29, 2007, at 09:00PM, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
wrote:
>I also thought we needed a few more screws:
>
>That should do it!
>
>Robin
>
>
>
>
Message 45
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Same thoughts as Scott. I have 194 hours with multiple runs a high speed
with no issues on just 2 screws, but a few extra might provide some peace of
mind.
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wingtip lens
Just to be the different one, I used only two screws and I have a great fit
and so far I've had no problems.
I've flown near the Vne 200 kts TAS and no problems. Adding more screws
makes sense though.
It is not like you take the lens on and off very often and it doesn't hurt.
So those of you with 2 screws, don't get too nervous. It will work great
and you will be able to care a couple more
dimes in your pockets at gross.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Nice photoshop try, but you would need to colour around rivets and
screws a bit better ;-)
Werner
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I also thought we needed a few more screws:
>
> That should do it!
>
> Robin
>
> wingtip.jpg
>
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