Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - Re: Brake cylinder assembly question (John Dunne)
2. 06:51 AM - Re: Brake cylinder assembly question (Rick Sked)
3. 09:03 AM - Removing the front seats (Sam Marlow)
4. 10:03 AM - Re: Removing the front seats (Jesse Saint)
5. 10:12 AM - Re: Removing the front seats (Tim Olson)
6. 12:17 PM - ELT again ()
7. 01:09 PM - OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph Engineering (Tim Olson)
8. 01:44 PM - Re: OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph Engineering (John Dunne)
9. 02:32 PM - Re: OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph Engineering (Tim Olson)
10. 05:59 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Sam Marlow)
11. 06:38 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Sam Marlow)
12. 07:33 PM - Re: Oil Canning (John W. Cox)
13. 07:50 PM - Re: How's things in Oz? (marcausman)
14. 08:41 PM - Regarding LASIK (Dave Leikam)
15. 08:49 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (DejaVu)
16. 09:36 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Tim Olson)
17. 09:51 PM - Re: Re: How's things in Oz? ()
18. 10:11 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Jesse Saint)
19. 10:11 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Jesse Saint)
20. 10:11 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Jesse Saint)
21. 10:13 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Jesse Saint)
22. 10:13 PM - Re: Removing the front seats (Jesse Saint)
23. 11:03 PM - Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Question? (Patrick Pulis)
24. 11:18 PM - Re: Brake cylinder assembly question (Michael Wellenzohn)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Brake cylinder assembly question |
Michael, page 46-07 step 2 tells you to remove one of the fittings from the
top to the bottom effectively creating a "right side". Have you correctly
identified the elbow fitting, (AN822-4D) I don't recall a problem here.
John 40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, 20 September 2007 4:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake cylinder assembly question
Hello,
just a quick question on the brake cylinder as described on page 46-07 Step
2&3.
Both cylinder are identical that means I have two "left sides" because the
bleeder valve on the right side points up and not down. Was it the same with
yours? Also it calls for AD822-4D elbow fittings but they wont fit in the
threaded holes in the cylinder (hole is too small).
2.Question Front tire tube installation, did you remove all washers even the
one which protects the tube see attached picture (washer on the right).
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135434#135434
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wheels026_787.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Brake cylinder assembly question |
Michael,
Yes, it's the same, you need to remove a bleeder and move it to the other side
to create a "right" caliper. The plans have instructions on doing this.
Yes, remove all the washers from the tube and beofre you install it for good, make
a bend so the fill valve does not hit the fork unless you swapped out the
wheel assembly and are not using the Van's supplied wheel.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 11:27:29 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Brake cylinder assembly question
Hello,
just a quick question on the brake cylinder as described on page 46-07 Step 2&3.
Both cylinder are identical that means I have two "left sides" because the bleeder
valve on the right side points up and not down. Was it the same with yours?
Also it calls for AD822-4D elbow fittings but they wont fit in the threaded
holes in the cylinder (hole is too small).
2.Question Front tire tube installation, did you remove all washers even the one
which protects the tube see attached picture (washer on the right).
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135434#135434
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wheels026_787.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives.
Thanks!
Sam Marlow
Message 4
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| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
I remember someone saying that they filed/ground down the back of the seat
that rides on the rails so it would pass the flap cover. I haven't done
that. I always just remove the flap cover. The other option, depending on
what you need to do, is slide the seat back and do your thing with it back.
I can get up under the panel by just sliding the seat as far back as it can
go, lean the seat back, and get up under there. I am 6'1", 230 Lbs, so it
is not comfortable, but it works.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam@fr8dog.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives.
Thanks!
Sam Marlow
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Removing the front seats |
It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a
bevel into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sam Marlow wrote:
> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives.
> Thanks!
> Sam Marlow
>
> *
Message 6
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"Hopefully in the next while there will be a bit more clarity on the ELT
situation so an informed decision can be made.
Thanks
Wayne Hadath"
Wayne, maybe it doesn't apply to homebuilts, but I think 406 MHz ELTs
are mandatory for certificated aircraft in Canada, or at least new ones
. . ..
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 7
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| Subject: | OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph Engineering |
I figure when someone really comes through beaming, it's
nice to pass it on.
A year ago after my Lasik I went looking for some good
sunglasses for flying, and yeah, I bought the marketing
and decided to go with a pair made by Randolph Engineering.
They make them for the military and they have a few various
types and lens shades.
Well, I dropped them on the blacktop and chipped a lens a
little. Decided I liked them after a year, so I bought 2
more pair...one for spare in the plane and one for
the car or other. I sent the original pair in, with
a note telling them the age of them, and that I personally
dropped them and chipped them, but would like to buy new
lenses and that they should just bill me accordingly.
They sent back a brand new pair of glasses for ZERO dollars.
Sure, to them I'm sure that's a simple and cheap thing.
To me, it shows great customer service. I figured a
public "thanks" would be nice, hence this post.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph Engineering |
Tim, 12 months on are you still happy with your Lasik surgery?
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph
Engineering
>
> I figure when someone really comes through beaming, it's
> nice to pass it on.
>
> A year ago after my Lasik I went looking for some good
> sunglasses for flying, and yeah, I bought the marketing
> and decided to go with a pair made by Randolph Engineering.
> They make them for the military and they have a few various
> types and lens shades.
>
> Well, I dropped them on the blacktop and chipped a lens a
> little. Decided I liked them after a year, so I bought 2
> more pair...one for spare in the plane and one for
> the car or other. I sent the original pair in, with
> a note telling them the age of them, and that I personally
> dropped them and chipped them, but would like to buy new
> lenses and that they should just bill me accordingly.
>
> They sent back a brand new pair of glasses for ZERO dollars.
>
> Sure, to them I'm sure that's a simple and cheap thing.
> To me, it shows great customer service. I figured a
> public "thanks" would be nice, hence this post.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph Engineering |
Yeah, without wasting too much list bandwidth...(we did this a few
months ago too)....it's working very well for me and I only wish
I had done it sooner, however the technology used when I did it was
fairly new...so it was probably a worthwhile wait. Now that's just
my results. I know others have had lesser results than me, so it's
not a universal endorsement. For some people it could make their
lives worse. I didn't, in my case though. Very happy.
If anyone wants more info from me on that, just email off-list and
I'll be happy to fill you in.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Dunne wrote:
>
> Tim, 12 months on are you still happy with your Lasik surgery?
> John 40315
>>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Removing the front seats |
Thanks Jesse, I'll try that first.
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I remember someone saying that they filed/ground down the back of the
> seat that rides on the rails so it would pass the flap cover. I
> haven't done that. I always just remove the flap cover. The other
> option, depending on what you need to do, is slide the seat back and
> do your thing with it back. I can get up under the panel by just
> sliding the seat as far back as it can go, lean the seat back, and get
> up under there. I am 6'1", 230 Lbs, so it is not comfortable, but it
> works.
>
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>
> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* Sam Marlow [mailto:sam@fr8dog.net]
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 20, 2007 12:02 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under
> the panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the
> rear carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think
> someone had a solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it
> in the archives.
> Thanks!
> Sam Marlow
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Removing the front seats |
Thanks Tim, do you have a pic by chance on your website?
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a
> bevel into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under
>> the panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the
>> rear carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think
>> someone had a solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate
>> it in the archives.
>> Thanks!
>> Sam Marlow
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 12
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Last night at work (2AM local), I asked the former VANS Quality Control
Inspector his opinion on your dilemma. "The kit is so well formed that
few compound curves exist. The exterior skin should lay (naturally and
*tight*) against the underlying framing structure - everywhere."
Yes, you can use Draw Clecos but he says they were rarely needed. Most
often it is the flanges not being bent or fluted consistently to the
correct angle so they cause either a dimple or pimple to act on the
skin. A few of the symmetric parts such as bulkheads have a left and
right side which could contribute to a need for modifying the flanges.
Occasionally they would see a hurried rigging and lay-up early on the
build process before the manufacturer fully understood the technique.
Most of the Horizontal and Wing are constant rib design to help reduce
such a problem.
On the RV-10 several differing competitive teams (A-B-C-D) to build
subsections (Empennage - Fuselage - FWF - Canopy) which could
occasionally cause fitment dissimilarity. We builders tend to think if
it as one big parts team. The use of shim stock or tapered shims could
correct some miss alignment issues (which I have seen on a few
inspections). Usually the builder accepts the occasional pimple (outty)
or dimple (inny) as being a simple rock in the road to completion. There
were a series of bad parts (not VANS phrase) on the RV-9 but the RV-10
has been pretty solid in the parts fabrication area. (Not to take away
from what John Hilger and others ran into with cracked parts). As I
understand it, the QC Department is now closed there. I guess they have
reached perfection ;-)
We are often using 0.070 or 0.090 skin at work and several layers "webs"
(it's a pressure vessel) and the skin must be in full contact with the
underlying semi-monoque framing everywhere before wet riveting. When
replacing panels, we use Lexan for a template and black fine tip markers
to get the edges within 0.001 of the original skin. It often stretches
upon removal - hence the pulling of a template.
He said more attention to flange "finish" angle and the consequence of
"Springback" when they formed the part originally will help. Fluting
pliers is another tool. I am attaching pdf's of what draw clecos look
like. In a production environment, we use a pneumatic draw cleco tool
to speed the process of installation and removal of the clecos.
Again oil canning is rare, is usually seen on assemblies completed early
in the RV-10 build - and is rare but you are certainly not alone.
Proper preparation of each framing member will reduce the likelihood.
Some parts needed grinding on the curved flanges because they caused a
projecting "hard point".
Drilling it and pulling it "in" might be a USAF Air Force One thing
cause they are not Certificated aircraft or OBAM built aircraft (they
are Bureau built). Naval aviators would just slap Okum on it - like the
expanding foam idea. I don't know what Army Air Corp guys would do, they
started in balloons didn't they?
Questions and Responses are what make this build so great.
John
600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Canning
Zero responses. Searched the RV-10 archives and there is very little
there. I guess I can only assume that no other RV-10 builder has any
oil canning. The general RV archives are only a little more
enlightening.
What happened to the good old days - when a basic building query met
with half a dozen or more immediate useful suggestions? I hope the
list has not not exhausted itself as a resource for builder assistance.
I know oil canning is common on all metal aircraft, but I am interested
in solutions that the -10 crowd may have deployed to reduce or eliminate
the problem - unless of course I am the ONLY crappy builder with oil
canning.
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Monday, 17 September 2007 8:38 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Canning
Hey all,
Getting to the final assembly stage. I pulled out the VS that
was completed over 3 years ago. Did not know any better at the time and
thought my first airplane part was just fine. But there is significant
oil canning on both of the large aft-lower panels. The only other oil
canning I have is very minor on one or two of the lower wing skin
panels, so the VS is really giving me the irrits. Any clues on how to
tighten the skins?
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: How's things in Oz? |
rleffler wrote:
>
> So here's my request:
>
> Develop a white paper of exactly was is the cost comparison would be using traditional
technology versus your product. If the cost is as close as you indicate,
then the white paper should help convince us with tight budgets to take
the plunge.
>
> I did enjoy meeting and talking with your team at Michael's last week. I think
you have a great product, I just can't afford it at the moment.
>
> bob
>
Bob,
There's a white paper here at the top of the page: http://www.verticalpower.com/purchase.html
The goal is to help you determine if it makes sense for your particular situation,
taking into account price and other factors as well.
Marc
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135596#135596
Message 14
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I had my eyes done with the interlace method 3 months ago and am pretty
happy. My eyes tend to be dry in the morning and late at night. Left eye
is 20/15 the right is 20/25. I have a follow up appointment this week and
if I want, they will tweak the right eye to get it closer to or to 20/15, no
extra charge. It is really nice to fly and not worry about losing a lens.
In the air and at night everything is as clear or better than with lenses.
So far so good.
Dave Leikam
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OT: Positive Customer Service Experience - Randolph
Engineering
>
> Yeah, without wasting too much list bandwidth...(we did this a few
> months ago too)....it's working very well for me and I only wish
> I had done it sooner, however the technology used when I did it was
> fairly new...so it was probably a worthwhile wait. Now that's just
> my results. I know others have had lesser results than me, so it's
> not a universal endorsement. For some people it could make their
> lives worse. I didn't, in my case though. Very happy.
>
> If anyone wants more info from me on that, just email off-list and
> I'll be happy to fill you in.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Dunne wrote:
>>
>> Tim, 12 months on are you still happy with your Lasik surgery?
>> John 40315
>>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Removing the front seats |
Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of the
seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the seat back
from coming up.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a bevel
> into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
>> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
>> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
>> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives.
>> Thanks!
>> Sam Marlow
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Removing the front seats |
Yeah, I exaggerated a bit when I made it sound like work. The worst
part was pulling the seats in and out to test the cuts made with the
exacto. And, unless you want to end up like Stein, you have to
be careful with those Exacto knives! ;)
I believe Anh, for those who missed it long ago, was the originator
of the "fix" by trimming.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
DejaVu wrote:
>
> Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
> Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of
> the seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the
> seat back from coming up.
>
> Anh
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a
>> bevel into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
>> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
>> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
>> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
>> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
>> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under
>>> the panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the
>>> rear carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think
>>> someone had a solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate
>>> it in the archives.
>>> Thanks!
>>> Sam Marlow
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: How's things in Oz? |
Thanks for the update!
I'm on the road and will read later this weekend.
bob
>
> From: "marcausman" <marc@verticalpower.com>
> Date: 2007/09/20 Thu PM 09:50:20 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: How's things in Oz?
>
>
>
> rleffler wrote:
> >
> > So here's my request:
> >
> > Develop a white paper of exactly was is the cost comparison would be using
traditional technology versus your product. If the cost is as close as you indicate,
then the white paper should help convince us with tight budgets to take
the plunge.
> >
> > I did enjoy meeting and talking with your team at Michael's last week. I think
you have a great product, I just can't afford it at the moment.
> >
> > bob
> >
>
>
> Bob,
>
> There's a white paper here at the top of the page: http://www.verticalpower.com/purchase.html
>
> The goal is to help you determine if it makes sense for your particular situation,
taking into account price and other factors as well.
>
> Marc
>
> --------
> Marc Ausman
> http://www.verticalpower.com
> RV-7 IO-390 Flying
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135596#135596
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
This was the fix I was referring to and just got the detail wrong. I think this
fix is better than the one I erroneously described.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Sent: 9/20/2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of the
seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the seat back
from coming up.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a bevel
> into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
>> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
>> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
>> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives
Message 19
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| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
This was the fix I was referring to and just got the detail wrong. I think this
fix is better than the one I erroneously described.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Sent: 9/20/2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of the
seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the seat back
from coming up.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a bevel
> into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
>> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
>> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
>> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
This was the fix I was referring to and just got the detail wrong. I think this
fix is better than the one I erroneously described.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Sent: 9/20/2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of the
seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the seat back
from coming up.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a bevel
> into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
>> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
>> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
>> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
This was the fix I was referring to and just got the detail wrong. I think this
fix is better than the one I erroneously described.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Sent: 9/20/2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of the
seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the seat back
from coming up.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a bevel
> into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
>> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
>> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
>> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Removing the front seats |
This was the fix I was referring to and just got the detail wrong. I think this
fix is better than the one I erroneously described.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Sent: 9/20/2007 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
Nah, not that much work. A pointy exacto carves the nylon away nicely.
Just pull the seat back as far as it will go. Look at the front side of the
seat rails and carve away the nylon portion that's preventing the seat back
from coming up.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removing the front seats
>
>
>
> It takes a little work, but it's possible. What you do is to trim a bevel
> into that nylon slide runner on the seat side of the rails.
> You trim it on the front side of the rails, so that when you pull
> the seat latch off and slide it all the way back, there's enough
> slop that you can tip the back of the seat upwards. It's much
> harder to explain than to see...but it's just loosening up the first
> 3/4" or so of that nylon glide.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just finished installing the interior, but now I need to crawl under the
>> panel again. How do I remove the front seats without removing the rear
>> carpet and flap drive cover? That's a lot of work! I think someone had a
>> solution back a year or so ago, but I couldn't locate it in the archives
Message 23
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| Subject: | Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Question? |
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Brake cylinder assembly question |
Great thanks for your answers.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135619#135619
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