Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:05 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (RV_10)
2. 01:09 AM - Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (George Soverit)
3. 05:47 AM - Re: Plane completion pictures (bob.kaufmann)
4. 06:40 AM - Re: FW: To Prim or not to Prim (Kent Ogden)
5. 07:02 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (Rick Sked)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: FW: To Prim or not to Prim (Rick Sked)
7. 07:09 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (John Ackerman)
8. 07:41 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (Ben Westfall)
9. 08:03 AM - Sun Shields (Mark Ritter)
10. 08:05 AM - NACA Vents and static ports (Deems Davis)
11. 08:16 AM - Re: Sun Shields (Rob Kermanj)
12. 08:45 AM - FW: Sun Shields (Mark Ritter)
13. 08:58 AM - Re: Sun Shields (Rob Kermanj)
14. 09:06 AM - battery cable routing (Bob Newman)
15. 09:16 AM - Re: NACA Vents and static ports (orchidman)
16. 09:19 AM - Re: battery cable routing (Tim Olson)
17. 09:19 AM - Firewall vent boxes (Sheldon Olesen)
18. 09:31 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (nick@nleonard.com)
19. 09:47 AM - Re: battery cable routing (Bob Newman)
20. 10:08 AM - Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (dherring10)
21. 10:09 AM - Re: battery cable routing (Deems Davis)
22. 10:11 AM - Re: battery cable routing (Dave Saylor)
23. 10:15 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (linn Walters)
24. 10:29 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (nick@nleonard.com)
25. 10:48 AM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (Robin Marks)
26. 11:12 AM - Re: Plane completion pictures (Robin Marks)
27. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (George Soverit)
28. 11:34 AM - Re: Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (LES KEARNEY)
29. 12:16 PM - Re: battery cable routing (Michael Wellenzohn)
30. 12:40 PM - Re: battery cable routing (MauleDriver)
31. 01:22 PM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (David McNeill)
32. 03:03 PM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (Patrick ONeill)
33. 04:28 PM - Re: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (John W. Cox)
34. 04:33 PM - Door Seal Material (Albert Gardner)
35. 04:36 PM - Re: FW: To Prim or not to Prim (Jim Beyer)
36. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (gary)
37. 06:26 PM - QB fuselage floors (dmaib@mac.com)
38. 06:34 PM - Re: Door Seal Material (Rick Sked)
39. 06:41 PM - Re: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (Deems Davis)
40. 06:43 PM - Re: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (Deems Davis)
41. 07:43 PM - Re: QB fuselage floors (Tim Olson)
42. 08:09 PM - Re: battery cable routing (DejaVu)
43. 08:20 PM - Re: QB fuselage floors (dherring10)
44. 08:26 PM - Re: QB fuselage floors (Marcus Cooper)
45. 08:39 PM - Re: QB fuselage floors (Fred Williams, M.D.)
46. 08:50 PM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (Paul Grimstad)
47. 09:56 PM - Re: battery cable routing (Kelly McMullen)
48. 10:40 PM - Re: Firewall Vent Boxes (Halon Fire Bottle) (Robin Marks)
49. 11:04 PM - Re: Door Seal Material (Albert Gardner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Firewall Vent Boxes |
Les,
We felt the same and replaced our Al vent boxes with stainless steel.
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the various
flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the firewall.
The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used to seal the
gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent boxes that
mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just come across this
link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s and other Van's a/c.
Th link is HYPERLINK
"http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html"http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a useful
upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is steel and we
are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps, shouldn't we do the same
with the vent boxes (which represent the largest penetration of the
firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I would be interested in other
points of view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Rhodes
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
>
>
> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>
> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> What are you builders using?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
>
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
6:59 PM
6:59 PM
Message 2
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| Subject: | Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Thanks John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
George, I agree with your assessment of a beautiful panel.
My database shows the panel was built for Dwayne Herring of Midland,
Texas, kit #40506. Hopefully he is a lurker on this list and will
respond direct to you on the decisions which guided his selection.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George
Soverit
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
<georgesoverit@yahoo.com>
Thanks Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
Here is one from Deem's library
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202007/Misc/slides/DSC_0048.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Soverit" <georgesoverit@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2007 1:47:46 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
<georgesoverit@yahoo.com>
Hello Everybody,
There was a beautiful Op Tech panel at Osh at the Accuracy Avionics
stand.
Can anybody tell me who owned that beauty, or where I might be able to
see
some photos?
Thank you,
George Soverit (cabin doors)
9:46 PM
9:46 PM
9:46 PM
6:59 PM
6:59 PM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Plane completion pictures |
She's beautiful, look forward to seeing her on the Nellis ramp in Nov. So
that's what all the parts together look like.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Plane completion pictures
Hello fellow builders,
Today was a big milestone day for me in my plane building quest that I have
been on for the last 2 1/2 years. I picked up my plane from the paint shop.
I'm finally getting the feeling that I may be getting close to be done with
the building process and can now move on to my favorite part, which is the
flying. It's been a long and at times frustrating process but I'm really
happy with the end results so that makes it all worth while.
We are flying to Land of Enchantment on Friday for the first RV flyin with
the plane. I've attached some pictures that were taken today outside of the
Glo Customs hangar by Grady when I was picking up the plane. Grady and crew
did a great job for me.
My wifes question for me today was, "Ok what are you going to come up with
next?" hummm :>}
Wayne Edgerton N602WT build # 40336
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: FW: To Prim or not to Prim |
Hi Joe,
I too am a new builder, I went with the Akzo Nobel epoxy primer that can be
purchase from Aircraft Spruce.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/akzoprimer.php
I decided on this because it is specifically stated to be fluid and
corrosive resistant, which not all primers are as I understand. Many
primers are intended to have a topcoat, and are primarily designed to
provide good adhesion for the topcoat and not necessarily provide the
ultimate in protection themselves.
Once I sprayed this stuff on, I was very convinced that it will provide
excellent protection as it is very hard and impermeable when cured. I also
emailed their technical support to as whether alodining is necessary. They
dithered a little and wouldn't come out and say that you don't need to
alodine, just that the adhesion would be somewhat better if you did. I
alodined the vertical stabilizer, it was a big pain in the neck for me since
I don't have water in my shop.
I decided I won't alodine any more (except maybe some small parts since I
do have some of the chemicals). I just make sure I scuff VERY well with
scotchbrite and clean the surface thoroughly with MEK before priming. Last
week I bought the Taylor pneumatic DA (dual action) sander from Cleaveland
tools (http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ADAS11) as
well as the scotchbrite pad holder
(http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3MD945) and a bunch
of the pads to cut for the sander
(http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3MP47). Nothing
like the right tool to make a job easy, but this doesn't work very well for
small parts or 'inside' ribs etc. I see that Taylor makes a 2" version of
this sander (costs twice as much as the big one!) so I may go this route for
small parts, or just continue to scuff them by hand.
When everything is well prepped, even without alodining the Akzo primer
grips like a mad monkey. I don't think I will regret going this route, and
I hope to be flying this plane for a very long time.
Oh yeah, I bought a cheap HVLP sprayer (Chicago Electric?) from Harbor
Freight. I was very unhappy with it at first, but after adjusting and
tweaking the air output it does a reasonable job. Cleanup of the Akzo is
easy, put some MEK in the cup and spray it out a few times. Definitely want
to do that outside! I actually ignite the stuff with a torch as it comes
out of the gun, it makes an impressive flame (who says building is the only
fun we can have?). Standard disclaimers apply if you do this yourself!
Kent Ogden
#40710
>>> "Joseph Rhodes" <joe@rvbuildernet.com> 10/01/07 6:57 PM >>>
From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes To Prim or not to Prim and with what I
live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for resale value I would
like to use a good primerWhat are you builders using? Any help would be
appreciated Thanks Joe
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
I used the stainless boxes, If only for peace of mind. Kitplanes ran an art
icle about them a few months back and after seeing how the aluminum ones me
lted away under high heat, read torch here, I figured the money was well sp
ent. My philosophy has always been if it can made=C2-safer then be safer.
Might come with my job though. My daily role is to eliminate hazards or co
ntrol them. I figure I eliminated the fire penetrating the firewall at the
heat boxes. My imagination had worked up this scenario where a major engine
fire occured and flames were blowing through the firewall into the cockpit
and all I kept thinking was if I had only used the stainless boxes. Silly
I'm sure but I never want to second guess myself if possible.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "LES KEARNEY" <Kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2007 10:31:08 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the various fla
vours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the firewall. The
gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used to seal the gaps
should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent boxes that
mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just come across thi
s link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s and other Van's a
/c. Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html .
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a useful upgr
ade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is steel and we ar
e going to take great care to fireproof the gaps, shouldn't we do the same
with the vent boxes (which represent the largest penetration of the firewal
l)? This seems logical to me, but I would be interested in other points of
view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> =C2- From: Joseph Rhodes
> =C2- To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> =C2- Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> =C2- Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
> =C2-=C2-
>
> =C2-=C2-
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> =C2- From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> =C2- Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> =C2- To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> =C2- Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
> =C2-=C2-
>
> =C2- New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
> =C2-=C2-
>
> =C2- To Prim or not to Prim and with what=C2-
>
> =C2- I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> =C2- What are you builders using?=C2-=C2-
>
> =C2- Any help would be appreciated
>
> =C2-=C2-
>
> =C2- Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
===========
====
========================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: FW: To Prim or not to Prim |
Kent,
STOP DOING THAT!!!
Without adequate flame arrestors on the lines supplying the fluids and air
your an explosion waiting to happen. The vapors trapped in the bowl of the
gun will make a very nice IED with alumium sharpnel for all.
Rick Sked
Safety Guy by day, RV-10 builder by night.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK@upstate.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2007 6:38:55 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
Hi Joe,
I too am a new builder, I went with the Akzo Nobel epoxy primer that can be
purchase from Aircraft Spruce.=C2-
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/akzoprimer.php
I decided on this because it is specifically stated to be fluid and corrosi
ve resistant, which not all primers are as I understand.=C2- Many primers
are intended to have a topcoat, and are primarily designed to provide good
adhesion for the topcoat and not necessarily provide the ultimate in prote
ction themselves.
Once I sprayed this stuff on, I was very convinced that it will provide exc
ellent protection as it is very hard and impermeable when cured.=C2- I al
so emailed their technical support to as whether alodining is necessary.=C2
- They dithered a little and wouldn't come out and say that you don't nee
d to alodine, just that the adhesion would be somewhat better if you did.
=C2- I alodined the vertical stabilizer, it was a big pain in the neck fo
r me since I don't have water in my shop.=C2-
I decided I won't alodine any more (except maybe some small parts since I d
o have some of the chemicals).=C2- I just make sure I scuff VERY well wit
h scotchbrite and clean the surface thoroughly with MEK before priming.=C2
- Last week I bought the Taylor pneumatic DA (dual action) sander from Cl
eaveland tools ( http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=A
DAS11 ) as well as the scotchbrite pad holder ( http://www.cleavelandtoolst
ore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3MD945 ) and a bunch of the pads to cut for t
he sander ( http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3MP47
).=C2- Nothing like the right tool to make a job easy, but this doesn't w
ork very well for small parts or 'inside' ribs etc.=C2- I see that Taylor
makes a 2" version of this sander (costs twice as much as the big one!) so
I may go this route for small parts, or just continue to scuff them by han
d.
When everything is well prepped, even without alodining the Akzo primer gri
ps like a mad monkey.=C2- I don't think I will regret going this route, a
nd I hope to be flying this plane for a very long time.
Oh yeah, I bought a cheap HVLP sprayer (Chicago Electric?) from Harbor Frei
ght.=C2- I was very unhappy with it at first, but after adjusting and twe
aking the air output it does a reasonable job.=C2- Cleanup of the Akzo is
easy, put some MEK in the cup and spray it out a few times.=C2- Definite
ly want to do that outside!=C2- I actually ignite the stuff with a torch
as it comes out of the gun, it makes an impressive flame (who says building
is the only fun we can have?).=C2- Standard disclaimers apply if you do
this yourself!
Kent Ogden
#40710
>>> "Joseph Rhodes" <joe@rvbuildernet.com> 10/01/07 6:57 PM >>>
From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
To Prim or not to Prim and with what=C2-
I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for resale value I wo
uld like to use a good primer
What are you builders using? =C2-=C2-
Any help would be appreciated
==============
====
========================
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=EF=BD
=EF=BD%=EF=BD=EF=BDM4=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDx=EF=BD=EF
=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDw=EF=BDr=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
For just those reasons, we opted to use the SS vent boxes, too.
John Ackerman 40458 (mis-named finishing kit)
On Oct 2, 2007, at 1:01 AM, RV_10 wrote:
> Les,
>
> We felt the same and replaced our Al vent boxes with stainless steel.
>
> John Cleary
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
> Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 3:31 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
>
> Hi
>
> A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the
> various flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps
> in the firewall. The gist of the discussion was that the actual
> compound used to seal the gaps should have the apropriate fire
> (temperature) rating.
>
>
> As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent
> boxes that mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also
> just come across this link to a company that sells steel vent boxes
> for RV10s and other Van's a/c. Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/
> ssdiv.html.
>
>
> Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a
> useful upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall
> is steel and we are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps,
> shouldn't we do the same with the vent boxes (which represent the
> largest penetration of the firewall)? This seems logical to me, but
> I would be interested in other points of view.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643
Message 8
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| Subject: | Firewall Vent Boxes |
I am wondering what the reality of survival of an engine fire is? I have no
experience with them and I cannot recall anyone talking about having one
while hangar flying. Does anyone have actual experience or firsthand
experience with engine fires? I have gone back and forth about ordering the
stainless heater boxes myself but still have not. The kitplanes article was
a hell of a sales pitch yes but my gut says unless you are somewhat close to
the ground and can get down in a real big hurry I think the chances of
surviving the ordeal, with or without the SS heater boxes, is pretty small.
If there is a fuel or oil line feeding the fire it might be so enveloping
that your f*&( anyway.
Yes I would really hate to think while burning up "wow should of bought the
SS heater boxes".
Not wanting to start a list war just an open conversation and the other side
of the opinions (to make an informed decision).
Ben Westfall
#40579
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the various
flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the firewall.
The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used to seal the
gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent boxes that
mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just come across this
link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s and other Van's a/c.
Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a useful
upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is steel and we
are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps, shouldn't we do the same
with the vent boxes (which represent the largest penetration of the
firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I would be interested in other
points of view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Rhodes
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
>
>
> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>
> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> What are you builders using?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Kennon Aircraft Covers makes a quality sun shield. I have used them on sev
eral different spam cans. Is anybody that's flying close to their operatio
n in Sheridan, WY? Looks like they would be happy to make them for the RV-
10 if they had the measurements.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR (Going to LOE)
<html><div></div>
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!- Play Star Shuffle:- the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc
t
Message 10
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| Subject: | NACA Vents and static ports |
I spoke directly with Bill De rouchey and the fellow in Watsonville on
this issue. They have performed several in the air tests to compair and
calibrate thier respective systems (Bill makes the EFIS installed in the
Watsonville RV-10) and they have noticed NO difference in airspeed or
altitude readings due to the placement of the NACA vents wrt static ports.
Deems
orchidman wrote:
>
> I am seriously considering going this route but before this thread started I
had a question that has not been addressed yet and I believe it can only be addressed
by someone flying.
>
> My question is: Is there any impact with the static ports? The location of
the NACA scoops appear to be in line with the static ports. Do the scoops induce
any disturbance that could interfere with the static ports?
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137397#137397
>
>
>
Message 11
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Cleveland also has a good light weight one for RV10.
On Oct 2, 2007, at 11:00 AM, Mark Ritter wrote:
>
> Kennon Aircraft Covers makes a quality sun shield. I have used
> them on several different spam cans. Is anybody that's flying
> close to their operation in Sheridan, WY? Looks like they would be
> happy to make them for the RV-10 if they had the measurements.
>
> Mark
> RV-10/N410MR (Going to LOE)
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word
> scramble challenge with star power. Play Now!
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 12
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Rob,
Does Cleveland have a "sun shield" that fit inside the cabin on the windows
? I have a nice cover from Bruce but the light weight sun shields from Ken
non work great on short trips for $200 hamburgers.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR<html><div></div>
From: flysrv10@gmail.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: Sun ShieldsDate: Tue, 2 Oct
2007 11:13:34 -0400To: rv10-list@matronics.comCleveland also has a good li
ght weight one for RV10.
On Oct 2, 2007, at 11:00 AM, Mark Ritter wrote:
Kennon Aircraft Covers makes a quality sun shield. I have used them on sev
eral different spam cans. Is anybody that's flying close to their operatio
n in Sheridan, WY? Looks like they would be happy to make them for the RV-
10 if they had the measurements. MarkRV-10/N410MR (Going to LOE)<html><div>
</div>
Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble chal
lenge with star power. Play Now! - The RV10-List Email Forum - clas
s="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li
st - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-spac
e"> --> http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
Message 13
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I don't know mark. I did not consider sun shields at all.
do not archive.
On Oct 2, 2007, at 11:44 AM, Mark Ritter wrote:
> Rob,
>
> Does Cleveland have a "sun shield" that fit inside the cabin on the
> windows? I have a nice cover from Bruce but the light weight sun
> shields from Kennon work great on short trips for $200 hamburgers.
>
> Mark
> RV-10/N410MR
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> From: flysrv10@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sun Shields
> Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 11:13:34 -0400
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Cleveland also has a good light weight one for RV10.
>
>
> On Oct 2, 2007, at 11:00 AM, Mark Ritter wrote:
>
>
> Kennon Aircraft Covers makes a quality sun shield. I have used
> them on several different spam cans. Is anybody that's flying
> close to their operation in Sheridan, WY? Looks like they would be
> happy to make them for the RV-10 if they had the measurements.
>
> Mark
> RV-10/N410MR (Going to LOE)
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word
> scramble challenge with star power. Play Now!
> - The RV10-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-
> space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
> List - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-
> converted-space"> --> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://
> forums.matronics.com
>
> Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! Get 'em!
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | battery cable routing |
I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've seen
no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the FF
kit.
So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it,
have you run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible
conduits from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above
the wing spar? or have you made other dedicated hole for the battery
cables and kept the conduits open for all the other wires?
Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires on
the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter,
However this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of space
on that side.
Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
Bob Newman,
slow build fuse now attached to tail cone.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: NACA Vents and static ports |
Deems Davis wrote:
> I spoke directly with Bill De rouchey and the fellow in Watsonville on
> this issue. They have performed several in the air tests to compair and
> calibrate thier respective systems (Bill makes the EFIS installed in the
> Watsonville RV-10) and they have noticed NO difference in airspeed or
> altitude readings due to the placement of the NACA vents wrt static ports.
>
> Deems
>
Deems,
Thats reassuring to hear that someone has already addressed this. Thanks.
Back to 'full throttle' building [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137625#137625
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
I have run them through conduit with the other wires on the pilots
side of the plane.
As for a preferred side, that would probably be the pilots side,
which is what the Van's electrical plans show. That's because
* That's the side that the starter is on
* That's the side that the starter contactor is on
* That's the side that they have wire covers and things made for
if you want to use them
* That's the side that the contactor is on the battery box.
And whatever other reasons.
You could do it on the other side if you wanted, but it'll
possibly mean some creative routing. The oil cooler doesn't
interfere with the starter contactor at all.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
> haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've seen
> no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the FF
> kit.
>
> So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it,
> have you run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible
> conduits from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above
> the wing spar? or have you made other dedicated hole for the battery
> cables and kept the conduits open for all the other wires?
>
> Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
> firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires on
> the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter,
> However this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of space
> on that side.
>
> Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
>
>
>
> Bob Newman,
> slow build fuse now attached to tail cone.
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Firewall vent boxes |
I thought about the stainless vent boxes but decided against them.
My thought was that if it is hot enough to metal aluminum the
fiberglass cowling will have caught on fire as well and you are
still screwed. Fiberglass will burn furiously and if the cowling
is burning there is just that 1/4" of plexiglass between you and the
flames.
I think prevention is a far better cure. Replacing hoses before they
get old and stiff, making sure all the fluid connections are tight,
and the exhaust system is tight and secure would be far more beneficial.
Sheldon Olesen
40080 Last "10%"
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
Do engine fires ever happen, of course they do but certainly not a common occurrence.
I can think of two in particular of which I am familiar with who the pilots
were. One was recently in a Tri-pacer that never should have happened.
The pilot flew three times while trying to solve a "smoke in the cabin" problem.
The last time required him and his passenger to bail out of the plane during
the roll-out. A broken leg and some "minor" burns.
The one that has me taking extra step (explained below) happened several years
ago in an RV-4. The very experienced pilot and his passenger were on the down
wind to his private strip when a fire broke out in the engine (apparent fuel
leak). In the short time it took to get the plane down he had severe burns from
the flames that had come out from under the cowling and burnt a hole through
the bottom of the belly by his legs. His passenger survived but he did not.
Smoke and heat were as much of a problem as was the flames.
So, yes I did replace the heat vents for stainless ones and also the aluminum fuel
line thru-wall AN fitting for a steel fitting. I'm not sure why Van's would
provide an aluminum fitting for going through the firewall.
I also put down an insulation (available from ACS) under the floor, back to the
spar, which has layers of stainless, a mat material, and then aluminum. It is
comparably heavy but besides the peace of mind, I'm expecting that it will be
very effective for noise and temperature insulation, especially in the tunnel.
It is a bit of overkill from the fire-proofing point of view, but I also used
it on the back of the firewall for the sound/temperature insulation factor.
Nick 40015 -finishing
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137628#137628
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
Tim, As always, Thanks for your input!
Best regards,
Bob Newman
do not archive
>>> Tim@MyRV10.com 10/2/2007 12:18 PM >>>
I have run them through conduit with the other wires on the pilots
side of the plane.
As for a preferred side, that would probably be the pilots side,
which is what the Van's electrical plans show. That's because
* That's the side that the starter is on
* That's the side that the starter contactor is on
* That's the side that they have wire covers and things made for
if you want to use them
* That's the side that the contactor is on the battery box.
And whatever other reasons.
You could do it on the other side if you wanted, but it'll
possibly mean some creative routing. The oil cooler doesn't
interfere with the starter contactor at all.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
> haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've
seen
> no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the
FF
> kit.
>
> So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it,
> have you run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible
> conduits from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall
above
> the wing spar? or have you made other dedicated hole for the battery
> cables and kept the conduits open for all the other wires?
>
> Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
> firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires
on
> the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter,
> However this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of
space
> on that side.
>
> Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
>
>
>
> Bob Newman,
> slow build fuse now attached to tail cone.
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
George,
I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in his booth at Oshkosh. John is
correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I actually have a flying airplane I will
feel that I can give advice about building to others. Besides there have always
been such good answers posted by the time I read the questions that in most
instances I could not add anything. Tim Olsen has told me to respond anyway
so maybe I'll start now. Here are a couple more pictures of my panel. Some of
the items and switches Tony and Eric had installed on the panel are not the ones
that will actually be used. They were just trying to fill the holes for the
show. Let me know if you have any specific questions that I can answer and feel
free to contact me offline if you want. I was looking at both the Chelton
and OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton until the D2 problems. After
Tony and I talked about and I did my own research I decided to use the OP Tech.
Hoping for good things with the buy-out of OP Tech by Aerosonics. Besides
if Deems was using them I knew he had done the homework.
I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang at Accuracy Avionics have been
great to work with. I think they will ship the panel to me sometime this month.
I wish I was really ready for it.
dwayne@mid-westglass.com
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
Some of it is very dependent on your electrical system architecture and
implementation.
eg.
1. Are you running a dual battery or dual alt system?
2. Where are you planning on placing the busses? If you put them on one
side or the other of the subpanel, it will likely influence which side
you run cable on.
I ran a #2 Battery to Starter contactor cable on the pilot side for the
reasons Tim noted. I also ran a #4 cable on the left side for the main
buss & a #10 for the Aux buss, as this is wher e I've located the fuse
blocks for the busses.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
> haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've seen
> no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the FF
> kit.
>
> So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it,
> have you run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible
> conduits from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above
> the wing spar? or have you made other dedicated hole for the battery
> cables and kept the conduits open for all the other wires?
>
> Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
> firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires on
> the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter,
> However this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of space
> on that side.
>
> Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | battery cable routing |
Bob,
I originally intended a firewall mounted battery, so I closed up my
floorboards before I ran the cable. I wish I hadn't. The rear battery now
forces the cable up the right side to avoid going over the baggage door,
etc. That added at least 3' of cable.
Go under the floorboards and up the left side. I think there are provisions
to mount a contactor on the left side of the firewall above the oil cooler.
Plenty of room there for the cables. The starter is on the left too, so you
don't have to cross over.
I put my contactor indoors, also closer to the APU plug tie-in.
The picture is from the tunnel looking left. It would have been easy to
route the cable up the left side. Doh.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
#40394 FAA inspected, xpndr check and training today, then first flight
ASAP.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Newman
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: battery cable routing
I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've seen
no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the FF kit.
So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it, have you
run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible conduits from
behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above the wing spar? or
have you made other dedicated hole for the battery cables and kept the
conduits open for all the other wires?
Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires on
the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter, However
this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of space on that
side.
Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
Bob Newman,
slow build fuse now attached to tail cone.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
Seen one inflight fire ..... at Sun-N-Fun a few years back .... the
resulting hard landing blew out the fire, but his feet were already
burned ...... probably only 30 seconds of fire. I think that with all
the available air at 150 MPH, a small fire would become somewhat of a
raging inferno in seconds, rapidly rising above the melting point of
aluminum. The SS firewall and SS heat boxes would delay your discomfort
somewhat, but after that, what do you do??? Just take a look at what
happens when a Nascar racer blows an engine at 200 MPH and what little
oil there is in the engine ignites. Remember that those engines are
dry-sump engines and the oil is stored in a can in the back, unlike our
engines that have a sump.
I've pondered the problem of inflight fire, and also ditching in water
...... and neither scenarios have really good outcomes. True, there are
survivors of both, but I believe that prevention is a much better path
to take than survival.
Linn
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I am wondering what the reality of survival of an engine fire is? I
> have no experience with them and I cannot recall anyone talking about
> having one while hangar flying. Does anyone have actual experience or
> firsthand experience with engine fires? I have gone back and forth
> about ordering the stainless heater boxes myself but still have not.
> The kitplanes article was a hell of a sales pitch yes but my gut says
> unless you are somewhat close to the ground and can get down in a real
> big hurry I think the chances of surviving the ordeal, with or without
> the SS heater boxes, is pretty small. If there is a fuel or oil line
> feeding the fire it might be so enveloping that your f*&( anyway.
>
>
>
> Yes I would really hate to think while burning up "wow should of
> bought the SS heater boxes".
>
>
>
> Not wanting to start a list war just an open conversation and the
> other side of the opinions (to make an informed decision).
>
>
>
> Ben Westfall
>
> #40579
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:31 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
>
>
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the
> various flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in
> the firewall. The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound
> used to seal the gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature)
> rating.
>
>
>
> As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent boxes
> that mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just come
> across this link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s
> and other Van's a/c. Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
>
>
>
> Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a useful
> upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is steel
> and we are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps, shouldn't
> we do the same with the vent boxes (which represent the largest
> penetration of the firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I would be
> interested in other points of view.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
> Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 10:05 pm
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>> oy vay!
>> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
>> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
>> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
>> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
>> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
>> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
>> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
>> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
>> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
>> doubt they're worried about it..
>> Pascal
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Joseph Rhodes
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> -------------
>>
>> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
>> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>>
>>
>>
>> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>>
>>
>>
>> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>>
>> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
>> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>>
>> What are you builders using?
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Joe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
Just a quick response to Sheldon's comment about the fiberglass burning and the
windscreen...yes, that is all true but when the plane is moving, the flames will
follow the air through the engine, moving down to the bottom of the firewall
and out past the exhaust pipes. I would suggest that anything that is along
that path is the most critical area to worry about. The area around the exhaust
exit will have all the ingredients for creating a nice blow torch. Gee,
that is right about where your feet are, isn't it. The only thing missing is
the fuel source, such as a leaking fuel line....
Also remember that it isn't necessarily the direct flames that will kill you as
much as the smoke and heat burning your lungs. It's hard to close those vents
if they have melted away. They are within inches of where the fuel line penetrates
the firewall. That fitting should be steel, not aluminum.
I'll get off the my horse now, if somebody else wants to take it for a ride...
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137638#137638
Message 25
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| Subject: | Firewall Vent Boxes |
Ditto
Robin Marks
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV_10
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Les,
We felt the same and replaced our Al vent boxes with stainless steel.
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the various
flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the
firewall. The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used
to seal the gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent boxes
that mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just come
across this link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s and
other Van's a/c. Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a useful
upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is steel
and we are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps, shouldn't we
do the same with the vent boxes (which represent the largest penetration
of the firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I would be interested in
other points of view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Rhodes
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
>
>
> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>
> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> What are you builders using?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
>
Release Date: 1/10/2007 6:59 PM
1/10/2007 6:59 PM
Message 26
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| Subject: | Plane completion pictures |
Wayne,
I am a little late to the party but Dave had it exactly
right... You are setting the bar pretty darn high! Beautiful -10. Thanks
for all your contributions to the list.
Congratulations,
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Plane completion pictures
Hello fellow builders,
Today was a big milestone day for me in my plane building quest that I
have been on for the last 2 1/2 years. I picked up my plane from the
paint shop. I'm finally getting the feeling that I may be getting close
to be done with the building process and can now move on to my favorite
part, which is the flying. It's been a long and at times frustrating
process but I'm really happy with the end results so that makes it all
worth while.
We are flying to Land of Enchantment on Friday for the first RV flyin
with the plane. I've attached some pictures that were taken today
outside of the Glo Customs hangar by Grady when I was picking up the
plane. Grady and crew did a great job for me.
My wifes question for me today was, "Ok what are you going to come up
with next?" hummm :>}
Wayne Edgerton N602WT build # 40336
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Thank you Dwayne, I think anybody who comes up with a panel as beautiful as
yours has a lot to share with this group.
At the moment we are struggling with how to finish the interior off in our
10 so it looks sweet but doesn't add too much weight. I was quite taken by
the look and feel of your panel and wondered if a similar approach could be
taken with the rest of the interior and wondered what you planned to do.
I believe you have used the Nextel Suede Coating product on your panel and
wondered if you plan to use it anywhere else inside the cabin?
If you have done the thinking, perhaps you could share with us all what you
plan to do with the rest of your cabin inside? Any photos of any progress
would be gratefully appreciated.
Thank you,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dherring10
Sent: Wednesday, 3 October 2007 3:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
George,
I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in his booth at Oshkosh. John
is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I actually have a flying airplane
I will feel that I can give advice about building to others. Besides there
have always been such good answers posted by the time I read the questions
that in most instances I could not add anything. Tim Olsen has told me to
respond anyway so maybe I'll start now. Here are a couple more pictures of
my panel. Some of the items and switches Tony and Eric had installed on the
panel are not the ones that will actually be used. They were just trying to
fill the holes for the show. Let me know if you have any specific questions
that I can answer and feel free to contact me offline if you want. I was
looking at both the Chelton and OP Tech systems and had decided on the
Chelton until the D2 problems. After Tony and I talked about and I did my
own research I decided to use the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the
buy-out of OP Te!
ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using them I knew he had done the
homework.
I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang at Accuracy Avionics have
been great to work with. I think they will ship the panel to me sometime
this month. I wish I was really ready for it.
dwayne@mid-westglass.com
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
6:59 PM
6:59 PM
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
Hi
I am truly impressed with the coments received. It certainly seems that the vent
selection is just one of many considerations.
I think I am going to investigate fire resistant insulation for at least the floor.
As I fly in winter in -20c weather, it would be helpful for a couple of reasons.
A few years ago I saw some car insulation that was a dense fiber material
(about 1/4" thick) that was foil backed. I remember seeing it being tested
with a propane torch and it didn't support a flame and didn't melt. It was also
quite light. The only problem I could see with it was that it would aborb moisture.
I know some people in the certified world who work on the big iron. I will see
if they can suggest a better material.
Cheers
Les
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: "nick@nleonard.com" <nick@nleonard.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Vent Boxes
> <nick@nleonard.com>
> Just a quick response to Sheldon's comment about the fiberglass
> burning and the windscreen...yes, that is all true but when the
> plane is moving, the flames will follow the air through the
> engine, moving down to the bottom of the firewall and out past
> the exhaust pipes. I would suggest that anything that is
> along that path is the most critical area to worry about.
> The area around the exhaust exit will have all the ingredients
> for creating a nice blow torch. Gee, that is right about
> where your feet are, isn't it. The only thing missing is
> the fuel source, such as a leaking fuel line....
>
> Also remember that it isn't necessarily the direct flames that
> will kill you as much as the smoke and heat burning your
> lungs. It's hard to close those vents if they have melted
> away. They are within inches of where the fuel line
> penetrates the firewall. That fitting should be steel, not
> aluminum.
> I'll get off the my horse now, if somebody else wants to take it
> for a ride...
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137638#137638
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
Bob,
I've a bunch of pictures of the conduit routing on my website
www.wellenzohn.net
It starts on in the bottom of the gallery No9
http://www.wellenzohn.net/Fuselage/index9.html
I routed three conduits to the front.
Michael
Fuselage/finishing/FWF
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137665#137665
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
I'm doing a dual battery, dual alternator, split bus system. For
cabling, I'm following the lead of Van's basic electrical harness and
running my #2 and my #6 guage together along the left side using exactly
the route laid out in their installation instructions.
I've tried to do some careful planning and sizing and it looks like I
can run all the wiring between front and back using snap bushings, cable
clamps, edge grommets and the brackets included in Van's electrical
harness kit (they can all be ordered separately). I'm simply
replicating the left side on the right side too. Then I'm adding some
conduit for unforseen future cable.
Now this is all planned but not all done yet. The cables are going in
this week or so. So we'll see.
As many have said, the Van's kit is limited for many of the panels and
systems we're installing, but a very good starting point nonetheless.
Using the installation manual to guide my own custom setup seems like a
very good way to go.
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
> haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've seen
> no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the FF
> kit.
>
> So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it,
> have you run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible
> conduits from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above
> the wing spar? or have you made other dedicated hole for the battery
> cables and kept the conduits open for all the other wires?
>
> Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
> firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires on
> the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter,
> However this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of space
> on that side.
>
> Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
>
>
> Bob Newman,
> slow build fuse now attached to tail cone.
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
For this case I have a 7.5 pound fire bottle with halon which will flow
into the enine compartment. If anyone wants to see I can send a
picture.
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Seen one inflight fire ..... at Sun-N-Fun a few years back .... the
resulting hard landing blew out the fire, but his feet were already
burned ...... probably only 30 seconds of fire. I think that with all
the available air at 150 MPH, a small fire would become somewhat of a
raging inferno in seconds, rapidly rising above the melting point of
aluminum. The SS firewall and SS heat boxes would delay your discomfort
somewhat, but after that, what do you do??? Just take a look at what
happens when a Nascar racer blows an engine at 200 MPH and what little
oil there is in the engine ignites. Remember that those engines are
dry-sump engines and the oil is stored in a can in the back, unlike our
engines that have a sump.
I've pondered the problem of inflight fire, and also ditching in water
...... and neither scenarios have really good outcomes. True, there are
survivors of both, but I believe that prevention is a much better path
to take than survival.
Linn
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
I am wondering what the reality of survival of an engine fire is? I
have no experience with them and I cannot recall anyone talking about
having one while hangar flying. Does anyone have actual experience or
firsthand experience with engine fires? I have gone back and forth
about ordering the stainless heater boxes myself but still have not.
The kitplanes article was a hell of a sales pitch yes but my gut says
unless you are somewhat close to the ground and can get down in a real
big hurry I think the chances of surviving the ordeal, with or without
the SS heater boxes, is pretty small. If there is a fuel or oil line
feeding the fire it might be so enveloping that your f*&( anyway.
Yes I would really hate to think while burning up "wow should of
bought the SS heater boxes".
Not wanting to start a list war just an open conversation and the
other side of the opinions (to make an informed decision).
Ben Westfall
#40579
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:31 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the
various flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the
firewall. The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used
to seal the gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent
boxes that mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just
come across this link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s
and other Van's a/c. Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a
useful upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is
steel and we are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps,
shouldn't we do the same with the vent boxes (which represent the
largest penetration of the firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I
would be interested in other points of view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 10:05 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Rhodes
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
>
>
> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>
> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> What are you builders using?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Firewall Vent Boxes |
Do they still sell Halon fire suppression systems? I thought that Halon was
no longer being sold and banned in some (all?) states due to CFCs or
something like that.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
For this case I have a 7.5 pound fire bottle with halon which will flow into
the enine compartment. If anyone wants to see I can send a picture.
----- Original Message -----
From: linn <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> Walters
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Seen one inflight fire ..... at Sun-N-Fun a few years back .... the
resulting hard landing blew out the fire, but his feet were already burned
...... probably only 30 seconds of fire. I think that with all the
available air at 150 MPH, a small fire would become somewhat of a raging
inferno in seconds, rapidly rising above the melting point of aluminum. The
SS firewall and SS heat boxes would delay your discomfort somewhat, but
after that, what do you do??? Just take a look at what happens when a
Nascar racer blows an engine at 200 MPH and what little oil there is in the
engine ignites. Remember that those engines are dry-sump engines and the
oil is stored in a can in the back, unlike our engines that have a sump.
I've pondered the problem of inflight fire, and also ditching in water
...... and neither scenarios have really good outcomes. True, there are
survivors of both, but I believe that prevention is a much better path to
take than survival.
Linn
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
I am wondering what the reality of survival of an engine fire is? I have no
experience with them and I cannot recall anyone talking about having one
while hangar flying. Does anyone have actual experience or firsthand
experience with engine fires? I have gone back and forth about ordering the
stainless heater boxes myself but still have not. The kitplanes article was
a hell of a sales pitch yes but my gut says unless you are somewhat close to
the ground and can get down in a real big hurry I think the chances of
surviving the ordeal, with or without the SS heater boxes, is pretty small.
If there is a fuel or oil line feeding the fire it might be so enveloping
that your f*&( anyway.
Yes I would really hate to think while burning up "wow should of bought the
SS heater boxes".
Not wanting to start a list war just an open conversation and the other side
of the opinions (to make an informed decision).
Ben Westfall
#40579
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the various
flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the firewall.
The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used to seal the
gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent boxes that
mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just come across this
link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s and other Van's a/c.
Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a useful
upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is steel and we
are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps, shouldn't we do the same
with the vent boxes (which represent the largest penetration of the
firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I would be interested in other
points of view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <mailto:rv10builder@verizon.net> <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Rhodes
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
>
>
> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>
> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> What are you builders using?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Dwayne, great to have you surface like this. Your selections with the
help of the gang at Accuracy adds another rung at climbing the ladder of
RV-10s setting a new kit building standard.
I too, think Deems has done his homework and look forward to his Phase
I, fly off.
Your panel is one of the top 10 in my book.
John
40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dherring10
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
<dherring10@suddenlink.net>
George,
I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in his booth at Oshkosh.
John is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I actually have a flying
airplane I will feel that I can give advice about building to others.
Besides there have always been such good answers posted by the time I
read the questions that in most instances I could not add anything. Tim
Olsen has told me to respond anyway so maybe I'll start now. Here are a
couple more pictures of my panel. Some of the items and switches Tony
and Eric had installed on the panel are not the ones that will actually
be used. They were just trying to fill the holes for the show. Let me
know if you have any specific questions that I can answer and feel free
to contact me offline if you want. I was looking at both the Chelton and
OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton until the D2 problems.
After Tony and I talked about and I did my own research I decided to use
the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the buy-out of OP Te!
ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using them I knew he had done
the homework.
I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang at Accuracy Avionics
have been great to work with. I think they will ship the panel to me
sometime this month. I wish I was really ready for it.
dwayne@mid-westglass.com
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
Message 34
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| Subject: | Door Seal Material |
I was surfing RV sites one day and came across a site offering some door
seal material for the RV-10 but can't seem to find it again. Has any one
else seen that site or know anything about the product?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: FW: To Prim or not to Prim |
Kent, Here's a link to a post on VAF.net ... I too use AKZO and found a way
to save a few $$.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=19480&highlight=azko
Here's the copy/paste of the post.
Aircraft Spruce sells it for $134 <
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/akzoprimer.php> plus some
normal & hazardous shipping.
Graco Supply <http://www.gracosupply.com/> (866) 943-4200 sells it for $87.
Graco doesn't charge any handling fee and they thought it would be around
$35 to ship because of the extra $20 hazardous shipping fee. Even with
Spruce's free shipping (but not free hazardous shipping), you would be about
30% less.
No connection with Graco other than happy they would sell to me since they
usually deal with the bigger companies around Wichita.
-Jim
40603
...I went with the Akzo Nobel epoxy primer that can be purchase from
> Aircraft Spruce.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/akzoprimer.php
>
>
> Kent Ogden
> #40710
>
>
Hmm, to archive or not?? I guess so, since it might help someone save some
$$ down the road
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
I too have an OP tech panel (integrated system) My math says that there are
3 of us, but I hear rumors of more folks that have chosen OP. If any of you
are lurking, speak up and we can compare notes.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
Dwayne, great to have you surface like this. Your selections with the
help of the gang at Accuracy adds another rung at climbing the ladder of
RV-10s setting a new kit building standard.
I too, think Deems has done his homework and look forward to his Phase
I, fly off.
Your panel is one of the top 10 in my book.
John
40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dherring10
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
<dherring10@suddenlink.net>
George,
I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in his booth at Oshkosh.
John is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I actually have a flying
airplane I will feel that I can give advice about building to others.
Besides there have always been such good answers posted by the time I
read the questions that in most instances I could not add anything. Tim
Olsen has told me to respond anyway so maybe I'll start now. Here are a
couple more pictures of my panel. Some of the items and switches Tony
and Eric had installed on the panel are not the ones that will actually
be used. They were just trying to fill the holes for the show. Let me
know if you have any specific questions that I can answer and feel free
to contact me offline if you want. I was looking at both the Chelton and
OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton until the D2 problems.
After Tony and I talked about and I did my own research I decided to use
the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the buy-out of OP Te!
ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using them I knew he had done
the homework.
I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang at Accuracy Avionics
have been great to work with. I think they will ship the panel to me
sometime this month. I wish I was really ready for it.
dwayne@mid-westglass.com
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | QB fuselage floors |
I have removed the baggage area floors, rear seat pans, and started on the rear
seat floors this evening. I drilled out the 16 or so pop rivets holding the F1016C
(I think) floor. I am unable to budge the floor and cannot figure out what
is holding it in position. Any insights will be much appreciated.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137736#137736
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Door Seal Material |
Al,
Are they Alex Dominicas?
Check the link:
http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/accessories.html
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2007 4:28:18 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Door Seal Material
I was surfing RV sites one day and came across a site offering some door
seal material for the RV-10 but can't seem to find it again. Has any one
else seen that site or know anything about the product?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Pat Thysen also has an Op Tech panel.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
>
> I too have an OP tech panel (integrated system) My math says that there are
> 3 of us, but I hear rumors of more folks that have chosen OP. If any of you
> are lurking, speak up and we can compare notes.
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
>
>
> Dwayne, great to have you surface like this. Your selections with the
> help of the gang at Accuracy adds another rung at climbing the ladder of
> RV-10s setting a new kit building standard.
>
> I too, think Deems has done his homework and look forward to his Phase
> I, fly off.
>
> Your panel is one of the top 10 in my book.
>
> John
> 40600
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dherring10
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
>
> <dherring10@suddenlink.net>
>
> George,
> I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in his booth at Oshkosh.
> John is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I actually have a flying
> airplane I will feel that I can give advice about building to others.
> Besides there have always been such good answers posted by the time I
> read the questions that in most instances I could not add anything. Tim
> Olsen has told me to respond anyway so maybe I'll start now. Here are a
> couple more pictures of my panel. Some of the items and switches Tony
> and Eric had installed on the panel are not the ones that will actually
> be used. They were just trying to fill the holes for the show. Let me
> know if you have any specific questions that I can answer and feel free
> to contact me offline if you want. I was looking at both the Chelton and
> OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton until the D2 problems.
> After Tony and I talked about and I did my own research I decided to use
> the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the buy-out of OP Te!
> ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using them I knew he had done
> the homework.
>
> I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang at Accuracy Avionics
> have been great to work with. I think they will ship the panel to me
> sometime this month. I wish I was really ready for it.
>
> dwayne@mid-westglass.com
>
> Dwayne Herring
> 40506
> QB Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Patrick O'Neil has also ordered his OP Tech systems.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
gary wrote:
>
> I too have an OP tech panel (integrated system) My math says that there are
> 3 of us, but I hear rumors of more folks that have chosen OP. If any of you
> are lurking, speak up and we can compare notes.
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:28 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
>
>
> Dwayne, great to have you surface like this. Your selections with the
> help of the gang at Accuracy adds another rung at climbing the ladder of
> RV-10s setting a new kit building standard.
>
> I too, think Deems has done his homework and look forward to his Phase
> I, fly off.
>
> Your panel is one of the top 10 in my book.
>
> John
> 40600
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dherring10
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
>
> <dherring10@suddenlink.net>
>
> George,
> I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in his booth at Oshkosh.
> John is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I actually have a flying
> airplane I will feel that I can give advice about building to others.
> Besides there have always been such good answers posted by the time I
> read the questions that in most instances I could not add anything. Tim
> Olsen has told me to respond anyway so maybe I'll start now. Here are a
> couple more pictures of my panel. Some of the items and switches Tony
> and Eric had installed on the panel are not the ones that will actually
> be used. They were just trying to fill the holes for the show. Let me
> know if you have any specific questions that I can answer and feel free
> to contact me offline if you want. I was looking at both the Chelton and
> OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton until the D2 problems.
> After Tony and I talked about and I did my own research I decided to use
> the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the buy-out of OP Te!
> ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using them I knew he had done
> the homework.
>
> I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang at Accuracy Avionics
> have been great to work with. I think they will ship the panel to me
> sometime this month. I wish I was really ready for it.
>
> dwayne@mid-westglass.com
>
> Dwayne Herring
> 40506
> QB Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
I remember them being really really tight. I don't remember what tricks
to use to pull them out, but I do remember them taking some effort to
remove. I think they hung up on the sides.
Tim
do not archive
dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>
> I have removed the baggage area floors, rear seat pans, and started
> on the rear seat floors this evening. I drilled out the 16 or so pop
> rivets holding the F1016C (I think) floor. I am unable to budge the
> floor and cannot figure out what is holding it in position. Any
> insights will be much appreciated.
>
> -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137736#137736
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
I ran mine from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above
the wing spar like you said. Then it makes a bend inboard and down going
under the pilot seat, under the forward floor board (under the pilot's
feet), and up the hole right aft of the firewall. Same on the right side
for other wires. This eliminates wires being visible around the NACA vent
areas.
Anh
N591VU- just broke 100hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: battery cable routing
>
>
>
> Some of it is very dependent on your electrical system architecture and
> implementation.
>
> eg.
> 1. Are you running a dual battery or dual alt system?
> 2. Where are you planning on placing the busses? If you put them on one
> side or the other of the subpanel, it will likely influence which side you
> run cable on.
>
> I ran a #2 Battery to Starter contactor cable on the pilot side for the
> reasons Tim noted. I also ran a #4 cable on the left side for the main
> buss & a #10 for the Aux buss, as this is wher e I've located the fuse
> blocks for the busses.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Bob Newman wrote:
>>
>> I've studied many of the contruction logs from the popular sites and
>> haven't seen much on the routing of the big battery cables. I've seen
>> no real guidance in Van's instructions in the Finishing kit or the FF
>> kit.
>>
>> So here's the basic question. For those that have already done it,
>> have you run the 2 gauge battery cables through one of your flexible
>> conduits from behind the baggage compartment up into the sidewall above
>> the wing spar? or have you made other dedicated hole for the battery
>> cables and kept the conduits open for all the other wires?
>>
>> Also, is there a preferred side to land the battery cables on the
>> firewall? On our other airplanes we have always landed the wires on
>> the pilot side, cause it made for the shortes run to the starter, However
>> this plane seems to have the oil cooler taking up a lot of space
>> on that side.
>>
>> Thoughts and pictures appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
I also had a lot of trouble getting them out. What I remember is that if you get
it wedged as you are coming out it is very easy to crimp the turned up edge.
As a matter of fact I got mine out but when I was reinstalling them later I got
the left one wedged and ended up tearing it up and had to order another one.
The new one was just as tight but I just took my time and tried to keep it even
on each side as I went back down and did not have anymore problems. So just
don't get mad and to rough.
Sorry I don't have anymore advise.
Dwayne Herring
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137760#137760
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | QB fuselage floors |
Same issue with mine. I used a dental type tool (pointy end with 90 degree
bend) to reach into some of the rivet holes and pull - really hard.
Marcus
40286 - in the paint shop, can't wait to see it
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB fuselage floors
I remember them being really really tight. I don't remember what tricks
to use to pull them out, but I do remember them taking some effort to
remove. I think they hung up on the sides.
Tim
do not archive
dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>
> I have removed the baggage area floors, rear seat pans, and started
> on the rear seat floors this evening. I drilled out the 16 or so pop
> rivets holding the F1016C (I think) floor. I am unable to budge the
> floor and cannot figure out what is holding it in position. Any
> insights will be much appreciated.
>
> -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137736#137736
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
David:
I have the regular "slo build" kit and put mine in last week. Can you
get any part of it to move? Possibly then slip a cleco in the hole so
you can get some more pull on the pan? It is one of the few places
where I think the match drilling process does more harm than good. I
made some loops of tie wire and slipped them in adjacent holes on each
of the four corners so I could get them to move once they were in
place. I also had to use a thin paint scraper to get the edge to come
over the doubler on the back wall.
Also, I think the outside rivets were the most painful ones of the whole
kit. Serous consideration to pop rivets here. I'd rather do the wing
skins again.
Dr Fred
515
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I remember them being really really tight. I don't remember what tricks
> to use to pull them out, but I do remember them taking some effort to
> remove. I think they hung up on the sides.
>
> Tim
> do not archive
>
> dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>>
>> I have removed the baggage area floors, rear seat pans, and started
>> on the rear seat floors this evening. I drilled out the 16 or so pop
>> rivets holding the F1016C (I think) floor. I am unable to budge the
>> floor and cannot figure out what is holding it in position. Any
>> insights will be much appreciated.
>>
>> -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137736#137736
>>
>
>
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Vent Boxes |
David
I would like to consider your fire protection mods. Please send me some
pictures.
Thanks,
Paul Grimstad
bldgrv10450@comcast.net
Portland, OR 97219
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
For this case I have a 7.5 pound fire bottle with halon which will
flow into the enine compartment. If anyone wants to see I can send a
picture.
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Seen one inflight fire ..... at Sun-N-Fun a few years back .... the
resulting hard landing blew out the fire, but his feet were already
burned ...... probably only 30 seconds of fire. I think that with all
the available air at 150 MPH, a small fire would become somewhat of a
raging inferno in seconds, rapidly rising above the melting point of
aluminum. The SS firewall and SS heat boxes would delay your discomfort
somewhat, but after that, what do you do??? Just take a look at what
happens when a Nascar racer blows an engine at 200 MPH and what little
oil there is in the engine ignites. Remember that those engines are
dry-sump engines and the oil is stored in a can in the back, unlike our
engines that have a sump.
I've pondered the problem of inflight fire, and also ditching in
water ...... and neither scenarios have really good outcomes. True,
there are survivors of both, but I believe that prevention is a much
better path to take than survival.
Linn
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
I am wondering what the reality of survival of an engine fire is?
I have no experience with them and I cannot recall anyone talking about
having one while hangar flying. Does anyone have actual experience or
firsthand experience with engine fires? I have gone back and forth
about ordering the stainless heater boxes myself but still have not.
The kitplanes article was a hell of a sales pitch yes but my gut says
unless you are somewhat close to the ground and can get down in a real
big hurry I think the chances of surviving the ordeal, with or without
the SS heater boxes, is pretty small. If there is a fuel or oil line
feeding the fire it might be so enveloping that your f*&( anyway.
Yes I would really hate to think while burning up "wow should of
bought the SS heater boxes".
Not wanting to start a list war just an open conversation and the
other side of the opinions (to make an informed decision).
Ben Westfall
#40579
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:31 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
Hi
A couple of weeks ago there was an interesting thread about the
various flavours of Pro-Seal and what should be used to seal gaps in the
firewall. The gist of the discussion was that the actual compound used
to seal the gaps should have the apropriate fire (temperature) rating.
As I complete the fuselage, I keep looking at the aluminium vent
boxes that mount on the engine side of the firewall. I have also just
come across this link to a company that sells steel vent boxes for RV10s
and other Van's a/c. Th link is http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html.
Are there any opinions out there as to whether or not this is a
useful upgrade to the Vans kit. It seems to me that if the firewall is
steel and we are going to take great care to fireproof the gaps,
shouldn't we do the same with the vent boxes (which represent the
largest penetration of the firewall)? This seems logical to me, but I
would be interested in other points of view.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>
Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 10:05 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> oy vay!
> Look at the archives and you'll see 100's of opinions on this.
> Use anything you want from a DTM wash primer from SW to the
> Van's QB primer of SW P60 to 2 part stuff from Spruce.
> Jesse can tell you what he's using.
> My decision in California was prime for the extra measure (and
> scratches I seemed to create moving pieces around) and I used
> the easiest thing I could find. Sherwin Williams DTM wash
> primer. It works, I believe, well enough for me.
> I believe ERAU has Cessnas in Daytona Beach with no primer- I
> doubt they're worried about it..
> Pascal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Rhodes
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: FW: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
>
> From: Joseph Rhodes [mailto:joe@rvbuildernet.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: To Prim or not to Prim
>
>
>
> New builder 40744 Joseph Rhodes
>
>
>
> To Prim or not to Prim and with what
>
> I live in Florida and with the humidity, salt air and for
> resale value I would like to use a good primer
>
> What are you builders using?
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks Joe
>
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: battery cable routing |
I'm curious why you would run the extra wires from the battery, Deems?
My TC aircraft has battery in same location, runs #2 to starter relay,
where lead connects to same terminal to feed the main bus, and aux bus.
The starter is only used when there should be absolute minimum draw on
the buses, and not in use when you need power for all the other stuff.
Just seems like extra wire and complexity, at first blush.
Kelly
Do Not Archive
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Some of it is very dependent on your electrical system architecture
> and implementation.
>
> eg.
> 1. Are you running a dual battery or dual alt system?
> 2. Where are you planning on placing the busses? If you put them on
> one side or the other of the subpanel, it will likely influence which
> side you run cable on.
>
> I ran a #2 Battery to Starter contactor cable on the pilot side for
> the reasons Tim noted. I also ran a #4 cable on the left side for the
> main buss & a #10 for the Aux buss, as this is wher e I've located the
> fuse blocks for the busses.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 48
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| Subject: | Firewall Vent Boxes (Halon Fire Bottle) |
David,
I would also like to review your set up. You can email me off list or
better yet share it with the crowd.
I did some research and the systems look pretty straight forward however
I have no idea how to size the Halon bottle. What amount is enough?
Robin
Robin@painttheweb.com
Do Not Archive
Portland, OR 97219
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall Vent Boxes
For this case I have a 7.5 pound fire bottle with halon which
will flow into the enine compartment. If anyone wants to see I can send
a picture.
Message 49
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| Subject: | Door Seal Material |
That's the one Rick. Many thanks.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Al, Are they Alex Dominicas?
Check the link:
http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/accessories.html
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
I was surfing RV sites one day and came across a site offering some door
seal material for the RV-10 but can't seem to find it again. Has any one
else seen that site or know anything about the product?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
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