Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:40 AM - Re: Re: QB fuselage floors (Patrick ONeill)
2. 03:00 AM - qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Tom Hanaway)
3. 04:49 AM - Re: Plane completion pictures (Russell Daves)
4. 05:35 AM - Re: Plane completion pictures (Tim Olson)
5. 05:44 AM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Ronald L Owen)
6. 07:40 AM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (effectus@rogers.com)
7. 07:45 AM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (John Ackerman)
8. 08:14 AM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Patrick ONeill)
9. 09:41 AM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Eric_Kallio)
10. 09:44 AM - Re: Plane completion pictures (dherring10)
11. 09:55 AM - Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh (dherring10)
12. 11:08 AM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (John Kirkland)
13. 11:18 AM - Re: Transition Training - was: battery cable routing (Deems Davis)
14. 11:48 AM - Re: Transition Training - was: battery cable routing (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
15. 12:43 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Deems Davis)
16. 01:11 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (pilotdds@aol.com)
17. 01:15 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Rene Felker)
18. 02:06 PM - Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Michael Wellenzohn)
19. 02:46 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Deems Davis)
20. 03:24 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
21. 03:35 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Carl Froehlich)
22. 04:19 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Jesse Saint)
23. 04:55 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Chris Johnston)
24. 06:37 PM - Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual ()
25. 06:53 PM - Re: Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual (McGANN, Ron)
26. 07:06 PM - Re: Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual (Chris)
27. 07:33 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Rick Sked)
28. 08:15 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Jesse Saint)
29. 08:19 PM - icom ic-210 group buy (Pascal)
30. 08:37 PM - Rivethead - Aero (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
31. 08:47 PM - Re: Rivethead - Aero (Chris and Susie McGough)
32. 09:03 PM - LoPresti HID landing light kit (dmaib@mac.com)
33. 09:07 PM - Re: QB fuselage floors (dmaib@mac.com)
34. 09:38 PM - Re: Rivethead - Aero (Pascal)
35. 09:38 PM - Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna (Kelly McMullen)
36. 10:02 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (William Curtis)
37. 10:47 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (nick@nleonard.com)
38. 10:50 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Werner Schneider)
39. 11:11 PM - Re: Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
After reading your site Tim, I was hoping to find a Sioux rivet gun or
perhaps a complete box set of reamers.
Unfortunately, the only thing they gave me in the secret compartments was a
few dead spiders and an unused 426-3 rivet.
I did notice a lot of scratches and dirty finger prints on the undersides of
the panels though. I guess they let the new workers practice on those.
But at least they gave me a factory baseball cap with the fuse.
Best Regards,
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB fuselage floors
There are also quite a few people who have found hardware and tools
left under the floors and in hidden places. I almost didn't need
to buy any more drill bits and clecos since they sent so many
from the Philippines with my fuse. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Patrick ONeill wrote:
>
> On mine, it was only temporarily/partially riveted with just a handful of
> blind rivets per floor pan panel.
>
> The main reason to pull the floor panels as I understand it, is for
> inspection. So that you can verify that the QB assemblers did their job
> correctly.
>
> The access is also needed for priming and sound insulation (if you are
doing
> either of those) and it also helps with the conduit runs (which you could
> probably do without pulling the floor pans, but as long as you have them
> off, it seems much easier.) At least those are the reasons why I did it.
>
> On my fuse and wings I found numerous little odd tasks buried in the plans
> that were not done. I don't trust any plan step I can't visually verify.
>
> Best Regards,
> Patrick #40715
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:29 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB fuselage floors
>
>
> --> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> My Fuselage Kit shows up next week, so what's the reason you are pulling a
> floor that has already been riveted in? It sounds like it has to be done
> because so many have commented about it. John
>
> --------
> #40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137818#137818
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
Slightly different question re: removing floor panels in rv-10 quickbuilds.
Yes, they are tight to get out.
I don't see any way to remove the front floor panels without completely
removing the gear mounts. Priming has given me peace of mind but I'm having
a tough time figuring out how to get out the front floor panels without
significant removal of installed parts. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Plane completion pictures |
Dwayne must really like Wayne's paint job. I gave Dwayne a ride in my
RV-10, even let him fly it and he didn't offer to buy me a meal. Or
maybe it was my Texas Tech paint job.
Russ Daves
From: "dherring10" <dherring10@suddenlink.net>
What a great looking Airplane! I know you are proud of it.
I am not going to be able to go to LOE this year but If you need a
place to stop
and take a break on your trip out there stop here in Midland (MDD)
and I will
pick you up and buy you a meal.
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137840#137840
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Plane completion pictures |
Ha1 He's probably been in more RV-10's than anyone! Scott and
I both took him up at OSH. Was fun Dwayne, I'm sure you'll
love flying your own!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Russell Daves wrote:
> Dwayne must really like Wayne's paint job. I gave Dwayne a ride in my
> RV-10, even let him fly it and he didn't offer to buy me a meal. Or
> maybe it was my Texas Tech paint job.
>
> Russ Daves
>
>
> *From: * */"dherring10" <dherring10@suddenlink.net
> <mailto:dherring10@suddenlink.net>>/*
>
>
>
> What a great looking Airplane! I know you are proud of it.
>
> I am not going to be able to go to LOE this year but If you need a
> place to stop
> and take a break on your trip out there stop here in Midland (MDD)
> and I will
> pick you up and buy you a meal.
>
> Dwayne Herring
> 40506
> QB Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137840#137840
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
Tom,=0A=0AI had the same issue with the front floor pans. After I removed t
he gear weldments and completed all of the things I needed to do under the
floor pans I modified the floor pans to fit around the gear weldment. This
will make it exponentially easier in the future to get under there should I
need to.=0A=0AI modified them by cutting a triangular portion of the floor
pan away from the main section. This smaller portion is perminantly mounted
in around the weldment. To it, I riveted a strip of aluminum that I could
rivet the rest of the floor panel to. This way I can simply drill out the r
ivets along this line and be able to pull out the larger section.=0A=0AI ho
pe this makes sense. If you need more info or pictures just contact me off-
line.=0A=0ADave Hertner=0A40164 Wing Tips=0A=0A----- Original Message ----
=0AFrom: Tom Hanaway <tomhanaway@comcast.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Thursday, October 4, 2007 5:58:51 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: qb kit-
front floor panels removal and gear mount=0A=0A=0ASlightly different questi
on re: removing floor panels in rv-10 quickbuilds. Yes, they are tight to
get out.=0AI don=A2t see any way to remove the front floor panels without c
ompletely removing the gear mounts. Priming has given me peace of mind but
I=A2m having a tough time figuring out how to get out the front floor pane
ls without significant removal of installed parts. Am I missing something?
=================
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
> Am I missing something?
No, I don't think you are. I found the jillion AN-3 bolts very hard
to remove; I got them out by pulling on the heads with a vise-grip
plier, and that damaged the heads. My solution was to cut off the
heads and grind and polish the the thread end to a bullet shape. The
resulting pins were lubed and used as guide pins for the installation
of new bolts. The install was a great deal easier than the removal;
the hard part was reaching some of the nuts. I remember wishing for a
long set of wrenches.
hope this helps
John Ackerman 40458
On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:58 AM, Tom Hanaway wrote:
> Slightly different question re: removing floor panels in rv-10
> quickbuilds. Yes, they are tight to get out.
>
> I don=92t see any way to remove the front floor panels without
> completely removing the gear mounts. Priming has given me peace of
> mind but I=92m having a tough time figuring out how to get out the
> front floor panels without significant removal of installed parts.
> Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Tom Hanaway
>
> Boynton Beach, FL
>
>
List
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
I spent a few days trying to figure out a way around tearing down all
that
assembly before resigning myself to it.
I actually had more problems with the screws on the side panels than the
bolts. Most were easy but a few became stripped despite my best
efforts.
Though the nuts and bolts for the seat pedestal panels and gear
weldements
were definitely no fun at all. I just kept telling myself that it was
still
faster than building it all from scratch. Eventually that helped a
little.
I just wish they did less of the things you need to undo and more of the
things that are more difficult to do after all the QB assembly.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Hanaway
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
Slightly different question re: removing floor panels in rv-10
quickbuilds.
Yes, they are tight to get out.
I don't see any way to remove the front floor panels without completely
removing the gear mounts. Priming has given me peace of mind but I'm
having
a tough time figuring out how to get out the front floor panels without
significant removal of installed parts. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
Do you have any pics of your cat whisker antenna install? I have been scanning
builders sites and haven't found any.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138084#138084
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Plane completion pictures |
Boy, you talk about Whiney Hiney!
OK, OK any of you guys that have given me a ride can come to Midland
and collect your meal! How's that? Except that guy that has tt all over his plane.
Dwayne
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138085#138085
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Patrick,
I have tried to send an answer to the question you sent to me offline but I keep
getting the email returned to me.
Call me if you want 432-416-0635
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB fuse
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138089#138089
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
Doug Reeves site vansairforce dot net had some pictures yesterday (Oct 3) that
show a RV-10 just out of the paint shop. Cat whiskers on the VS top rib just below
the rudder counterweight arm. Interesting.....
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138106#138106
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Transition Training - was: battery cable routing |
Rick, First of all it was REALLY GOOD to be flying again ! I haven't
flown in 6 years and it was nice to be back at the controls, even with
all of the rust. One thing that did surprise me was the stall speeds.
The 1st thing that Mike did during the pre-brief was to point out that
the 'real' stall speeds were at least 10 mph higher than those published
by Ken Kreuger Vso in N220RV is 71-72 mph and Vs is 80. (the airspeed
indicator is mph). That was a bit of a shock as I had expected them to
be lower. On our second flight we went through all of the stall series
(I think Mike sensed my disbelief) and I confirmed 1st hand that the
speeds were indeed accurate for that plane. The good news is that the
plane really doesn't have a 'break' in the stall, it just sort of noses
a little lower and mushes ahead loosing altitude. I suppose if you
really accelerated the entry you could get a real stall. I noticed the
roll was more sensitive in the stalls, it was a little bumpy when we
flew, that and my rust may have contributed to what I experienced. I'd
love to hear from other flying their planes with respect to stall speeds
they experience.
Another thing is the rudder, it needs/uses the rudder on take off
(IO-360, wonder what the 540 will be like !?) but once in level air, I
was constantly over controlling with the rudder, most turns don't
require rudder. This took some adjusting for me. While we're on the
topic. Full Castering nose wheel steering was new to me. Took the 1st
day to adjust so that I could taxi in a straight line, at the end of the
3 days it wasn't an issue. On the same topic, Take-offs are a 2 part
affair. The first part was getting the nose wheel and the plane going
straight down the runway with partial power and 'toe-tapping' on the
brakes. Then come in with full power and the rudder shortly begins to
take effect.
Mike has you fly approaches @ 90 mph and because that's only 10 mph over
the clean stall speed he has you fly what I consider a fairly steep
approach. That took some getting used to for me. I believe he does this
and teaches this way for safety reasons, but with the outstanding view
the RV-10 has over the nose, the visual picture has a LOT of runway in
your face on short final. I found I was 'ground shy' and was initially
dropping the plane in from a foot or two too high. Mike teaches landings
as a 2 part affair. Part 1 is to break the decent and LEVEL the plane
off. Part 2 is to initiate a flair and dissipate energy and speed and
land.
This brings up the next point and that is elevator authority. N220RV had
NO balast in the rear when we flew. We initiated our approach with 20
degrees of flaps (second detent), Turning downwind we added full flaps.
With full flaps there is NOT enough trim to take the back pressure off
of the stick. I found that the back pressure was much more than I found
comfortable, and flew some landings with 2 hands! Makes it
difficult/impossible to develop a fingertip feel on landings. The other
item has been reported by several others and that is when landing it
takes the full aft movement of the stick. The topic has been discussed &
debated previously, but in my opinion with only 2 people and no
baggage/balast there is not enough elevator. Towards the end of 8.1
hours, I was able to get some of the rust scrubbed off, got a little
less shy about the rapidly approaching ground, and found a way to
'muscle' a couple of good landings. then Mike says " let me show you
something, .... we took another trip around the pattern flew exactly as
before only on our base leg after extending full flaps, he had me 'blip'
off a degree or two of flap at a time until the back pressure I'd grown
unaccustomed to holding was gone..... then flew the rest of the landing
!!!!! WOW!!! what a difference !!!!! Mike why did you keep this little
secret to the end??????? the plane landed almost identical to full
flaps, but the 'feel' was completely different and actually a joy!!!!!
Had a great visit w/ Ed Hayden, John Cox, Paul Grimstead, and John
Jensen while there. The Portland people really know how do do
hospitality! Ed's got the best equipped RV-10 under construction, if I
can encourage him to add the planned-for speed brakes and de-ice, I may
be able to finish before he does :-D
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> How did it go with Mike on the transistion training Deems?
>
> Rick S.
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Transition Training - was: battery cable routing |
Knowing Ed you would not have to push him to hard.....show him a shiny
object and he immediately tries to figure out how to modify it to fit on
the plane. Did he show you aft of the baggage bulkhead? I do not envy
him during his annual, told him he had to loose weight to fit back
there!
The 10 builders in Oregon are second to none and really make you feel
welcome when you get out there. That is not to say it is any different
in other locale's, just that it seems especially prevalent right near
Van's.
I can not wait to get out there for a homecoming and introduce my family
to the big Van's family that lives near the factory!
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transition Training - was: battery cable routing
Rick, First of all it was REALLY GOOD to be flying again ! I haven't
flown in 6 years and it was nice to be back at the controls, even with
all of the rust. One thing that did surprise me was the stall speeds.
The 1st thing that Mike did during the pre-brief was to point out that
the 'real' stall speeds were at least 10 mph higher than those published
by Ken Kreuger Vso in N220RV is 71-72 mph and Vs is 80. (the airspeed
indicator is mph). That was a bit of a shock as I had expected them to
be lower. On our second flight we went through all of the stall series
(I think Mike sensed my disbelief) and I confirmed 1st hand that the
speeds were indeed accurate for that plane. The good news is that the
plane really doesn't have a 'break' in the stall, it just sort of noses
a little lower and mushes ahead loosing altitude. I suppose if you
really accelerated the entry you could get a real stall. I noticed the
roll was more sensitive in the stalls, it was a little bumpy when we
flew, that and my rust may have contributed to what I experienced. I'd
love to hear from other flying their planes with respect to stall speeds
they experience.
Another thing is the rudder, it needs/uses the rudder on take off
(IO-360, wonder what the 540 will be like !?) but once in level air, I
was constantly over controlling with the rudder, most turns don't
require rudder. This took some adjusting for me. While we're on the
topic. Full Castering nose wheel steering was new to me. Took the 1st
day to adjust so that I could taxi in a straight line, at the end of the
3 days it wasn't an issue. On the same topic, Take-offs are a 2 part
affair. The first part was getting the nose wheel and the plane going
straight down the runway with partial power and 'toe-tapping' on the
brakes. Then come in with full power and the rudder shortly begins to
take effect.
Mike has you fly approaches @ 90 mph and because that's only 10 mph over
the clean stall speed he has you fly what I consider a fairly steep
approach. That took some getting used to for me. I believe he does this
and teaches this way for safety reasons, but with the outstanding view
the RV-10 has over the nose, the visual picture has a LOT of runway in
your face on short final. I found I was 'ground shy' and was initially
dropping the plane in from a foot or two too high. Mike teaches landings
as a 2 part affair. Part 1 is to break the decent and LEVEL the plane
off. Part 2 is to initiate a flair and dissipate energy and speed and
land.
This brings up the next point and that is elevator authority. N220RV had
NO balast in the rear when we flew. We initiated our approach with 20
degrees of flaps (second detent), Turning downwind we added full flaps.
With full flaps there is NOT enough trim to take the back pressure off
of the stick. I found that the back pressure was much more than I found
comfortable, and flew some landings with 2 hands! Makes it
difficult/impossible to develop a fingertip feel on landings. The other
item has been reported by several others and that is when landing it
takes the full aft movement of the stick. The topic has been discussed &
debated previously, but in my opinion with only 2 people and no
baggage/balast there is not enough elevator. Towards the end of 8.1
hours, I was able to get some of the rust scrubbed off, got a little
less shy about the rapidly approaching ground, and found a way to
'muscle' a couple of good landings. then Mike says " let me show you
something, .... we took another trip around the pattern flew exactly as
before only on our base leg after extending full flaps, he had me 'blip'
off a degree or two of flap at a time until the back pressure I'd grown
unaccustomed to holding was gone..... then flew the rest of the landing
!!!!! WOW!!! what a difference !!!!! Mike why did you keep this little
secret to the end??????? the plane landed almost identical to full
flaps, but the 'feel' was completely different and actually a joy!!!!!
Had a great visit w/ Ed Hayden, John Cox, Paul Grimstead, and John
Jensen while there. The Portland people really know how do do
hospitality! Ed's got the best equipped RV-10 under construction, if I
can encourage him to add the planned-for speed brakes and de-ice, I may
be able to finish before he does :-D
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> How did it go with Mike on the transistion training Deems?
>
> Rick S.
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has an
internal diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires they
be combined into a single input. Don;t know if this isi also true of
the other Garmin radios (430/480/580)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work
> fine on same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two
> navcoms, both with GS via one cat whisker antenna and splitters. Works
> fine.
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
The 430 has a provision for seperate gs/vor inputs.After much experimenting I used
a bowtie ant attached to the support strut inside the cabin. Excellent reception
on the ils for both localizer and g.s..---728DD.Wingtip archer ant. doesnt
do nearly as well and has areas of poor reception during vectors.
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:36 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
?
FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has an internal
diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires they be combined into
a single input. Don;t know if this isi also true of the other Garmin radios
(430/480/580)?
?
Deems Davis # 406?
'Its all done....Its just not put together'?
http://deemsrv10.com/?
?
Kelly McMullen wrote:?
> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work > fine on
same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two > navcoms, both with GS
via one cat whisker antenna and splitters. Works > fine.?
>?
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List?
>?
> *?
>?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
The 430 is just the opposite, it has an input for the both Nav and GS. Need
a splitter if you only have one antenna.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has an
internal diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires they
be combined into a single input. Don;t know if this isi also true of
the other Garmin radios (430/480/580)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work
> fine on same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two
> navcoms, both with GS via one cat whisker antenna and splitters. Works
> fine.
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
Hello,
since Vans doesn't ship Weld-On 10 internationaly I wonder if you know of an alternative
product to glue the windows in.
Any ideas?
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138139#138139
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
Flox - West system epoxy and cotton fiber, works great and doesn't set
up as fast as Weld-on.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> since Vans doesn't ship Weld-On 10 internationaly I wonder if you know of an
alternative product to glue the windows in.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Michael
>
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (fuselage)
> #511
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
A friend of mine used Sikaflex-296 UV for his RV-8. He avoided having to
drill any holes in his glass for rivets by using this product (not that we RV-10
builders have to drill the glass). It looks great and appears to do the job.
I've worked with it a little and it is so much easier to use than the
Weld-On that I used for my windows. But, I can't really make any solid
recommendations. You might try some of the other RV lists to see what the "consensus"
is
on this product.
_http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-ma-products.htm_
(http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-ma-products.htm)
-Jim
40134 - Will this annual inspection ever end?
In a message dated 10/4/2007 5:08:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
since Vans doesn't ship Weld-On 10 internationaly I wonder if you know of an
alternative product to glue the windows in.
Any ideas?
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Message 21
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| Subject: | VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
Why not a simple wire or copper tape dipole antenna in the bottom half of
the cowl? Easy, cheap, and for all practical applications just as effective
as any other antenna. If you don't want to use a VOR/GS splitter you can
put in two.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (350 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
The 430 is just the opposite, it has an input for the both Nav and GS. Need
a splitter if you only have one antenna.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has an
internal diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires they
be combined into a single input. Don;t know if this isi also true of
the other Garmin radios (430/480/580)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work
> fine on same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two
> navcoms, both with GS via one cat whisker antenna and splitters. Works
> fine.
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
We use FE6026 Parts A & B (or some number very similar to that) from Spruce.
It is expensive, hazmat stuff, but Spruce will ship internationally, it just
costs a lot. It is fantastic stuff. We used Weld-on one time and never
will again. We haven't tried anything else?
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Wellenzohn [mailto:rv-10@wellenzohn.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternatives for Weld On 10?
Hello,
since Vans doesn't ship Weld-On 10 internationaly I wonder if you know of an
alternative product to glue the windows in.
Any ideas?
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138139#138139
Message 23
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| Subject: | Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
I did my first window the other day using this method. Haven't finished
(need to lay the glass around the perimeter) but this was the procedure
that was recommended to install windows so you don't get any cracking
around the edge. Seems to work good. So far no cracking :-) (not
flying) cj
As provided by David:
Although the procedure takes only about an hour to accomplish per
window, setup and planning is substantially more.. I recommend that you
do one window to get the procs correct and plan to do the windshield on
a day by itself.
(0) tape off the inside and outside flange area of the window using 3M
Fineline (.5 width)
(1) then signstrip blue on the center areas to protect the inside and
outside of the window . Be generous when painting it on as this makes it
easy to pull off.
(2) sand the inside/outside edges of the window in the area of the
flange to roughen the glass for adhesion.
(3) sand the flanges of the lid; CLEAN ALL SANDED EDGES WITH ACETONE
(4) prepare a set of aluminum "fingers" . Strips of .080 1" by 3" ; with
a slight bend in the center. one end gets a #30 hole and the other is
adequately taped. each is numbered. See the picture.
(5) Trim the window to fit the frame and temporarily hold in place with
the NUMBERED "fingers". Clecoes should be place about .50" outside the
window. Drill #30 only through the external layer; NOT THROUGH THE LID.
RETAPE OFF THE EDGES 3M FINELINE TAPE .
(6) prepare a mixture of epoxy with chopped fibers and cabosil.
Consistency should be peanut butter. Potlife should plan to be 30-40
minutes. We refrigerated it to further slow the cure.
(7) putty the lid flanges, wet the window flanges with a small amount of
catalyzed epoxy and place window in frame; holding in place with
"fingers" at the preplanned locations.
(8) inside person should be wiping excess putty away with a 50-50
mixture of mineral spirirts and acetone; outside person should be
smoothing putty on outside flange. excess will be sanded off later. then
PULL THE TAPES BEFORE IT CURES.
(9) allow to cure 24 hours.
(10) Inside lid , flange should be finished . If rough, tape glass and
sand lightly.
(11) outside the lid, RETAPE the edge at the flange line, then cover the
flange with two 1" layers of glass (E-7782?). (Note this was the Glastar
procedure.) Remember to pull the tape before the layered glass sets up.
The windscreen on the RV10 requires a different layering of glass on the
aluminum.
(12) Retape the edge , then sand and fill external flange area for
paint. The sanding can feather into the edge of the tape.
(13) when painted , paint should cover the flange.
(14) MUST BE DONE BEFORE THE MIXTURE CURES. If you accidentally get
epoxy on the Plexiglas during the process, it can be safely removed
using a clean cloth and the 50-50 mixture of mineral spirits and
acetone. Have it handy.
(15) 50-50 mixture is also good for removing any signstrip that does not
come off when finally removing the protective covering before flight.
to
and
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
Message 24
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| Subject: | Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual |
I was surfing around looking for an education on general electrical
systems and any other GA aircraft info that has some "authority" and
found that one can download the maintenance manual for the Columbia
models 300, and 350. Good stuff about all the Garmin goodies and all the
systems of a certified airplane. Also an interesting tidbit about window
replacement and paint cracks. Generally good free information. Plenty to
read if you never have seen this type of manual.
-Chris Lucas
#40072 Finish on route
Message 25
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| Subject: | Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual |
Chris,
Got a URL?
do not archive
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
toaster73@embarqmail.com
Sent: Friday, 5 October 2007 10:55 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual
I was surfing around looking for an education on general
electrical systems and any other GA aircraft info that has some
"authority" and found that one can download the maintenance manual for
the Columbia models 300, and 350. Good stuff about all the Garmin
goodies and all the systems of a certified airplane. Also an interesting
tidbit about window replacement and paint cracks. Generally good free
information. Plenty to read if you never have seen this type of manual.
-Chris Lucas
#40072 Finish on route
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual |
As requested
ftp://publicftp.flycolumbia.com/MaintenanceManuals/
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual
Chris,
Got a URL?
do not archive
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
toaster73@embarqmail.com
Sent: Friday, 5 October 2007 10:55 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Columbia Aircraft Maintenance Manual
I was surfing around looking for an education on general electrical
systems and any other GA aircraft info that has some "authority" and
found that one can download the maintenance manual for the Columbia
models 300, and 350. Good stuff about all the Garmin goodies and all the
systems of a certified airplane. Also an interesting tidbit about window
replacement and paint cracks. Generally good free information. Plenty to
read if you never have seen this type of manual.
-Chris Lucas
#40072 Finish on route
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
The 480 has the same setup as the SL-30, internal diplexer, I suspect the 430 and
530 are too. It's nice because I used a comant spliter on my Nav antenna and
sent one lead to each, my 480 and the SL-30. I may add the V antenna to the
tail if the performance is below par...we shall see. Everyone else using the setup
has no complaints so I should be good to go.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2007 12:36:26 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has an
internal diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires they
be combined into a single input. Don;t know if this isi also true of
the other Garmin radios (430/480/580)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work
> fine on same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two
> navcoms, both with GS via one cat whisker antenna and splitters. Works
> fine.
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
The 430 has a separate connection for GS and Nav, so you need an external
diplexer.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
The 480 has the same setup as the SL-30, internal diplexer, I suspect the
430 and 530 are too. It's nice because I used a comant spliter on my Nav
antenna and sent one lead to each, my 480 and the SL-30. I may add the V
antenna to the tail if the performance is below par...we shall see. Everyone
else using the setup has no complaints so I should be good to go.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2007 12:36:26 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/LOC/GS antenna
FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has an
internal diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires they
be combined into a single input. Don;t know if this isi also true of
the other Garmin radios (430/480/580)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work
> fine on same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two
> navcoms, both with GS via one cat whisker antenna and splitters. Works
> fine.
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | icom ic-210 group buy |
In the socal RVlist someone posted a group buy going on. For anyone
interested thought I would pass on.
ICOM A210 group buy happening on VAF @
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=21312Mark
Pascal
Message 30
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| Subject: | Rivethead - Aero |
Anyone on the list have any clue what's going on with Rivethead (AKA Full
Throttle)?
I ordered the rudder cable brackets from them 2 weeks ago, they've been paid,
but I can't get them to either return phone calls or answer emails on the
status of the order.
Do we have another D2 Avionics debacle here??
grumpy
N184JM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Rivethead - Aero |
Oh dear ...check the archives. 2.75 months and still waiting
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivethead - Aero
Anyone on the list have any clue what's going on with Rivethead (AKA
Full Throttle)?
I ordered the rudder cable brackets from them 2 weeks ago, they've
been paid, but I can't get them to either return phone calls or answer
emails on the status of the order.
Do we have another D2 Avionics debacle here??
grumpy
N184JM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's ne="_blank">Make AOL Your Homepage.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | LoPresti HID landing light kit |
I am attempting to install the LoPresti wingtip landing light kit and I also have
SafeAir1 tip tanks. I would like to talk with anyone is has succesfully installed
this combination.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138227#138227
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
Thanks to all for the tips. I have been out of town and will now know how to approach
this when I get home.
Once again, this list is priceless.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138228#138228
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Rivethead - Aero |
this is standard operating procedure. It's a side job, very busy, so on
and so forth. You should have the stuff for christmas ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivethead - Aero
Anyone on the list have any clue what's going on with Rivethead (AKA
Full Throttle)?
I ordered the rudder cable brackets from them 2 weeks ago, they've
been paid, but I can't get them to either return phone calls or answer
emails on the status of the order.
Do we have another D2 Avionics debacle here??
grumpy
N184JM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's ne="_blank">Make AOL Your Homepage.
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: VOR/LOC/GS antenna |
Yeah, I know. I still am in the world of equipment designed in the '80s
like KX155 and MK12D that all took separate nav and gs antenna inputs.
Many of the panels discussed here have more $$ involved than I have in
my current aircraft(that is well equipped with steam guages 90s stuff).
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> FYI The SL-30 has NO provision for a seperate LOC/GS antenna. It has
> an internal diplexor, if the aircraft has dual antennas, it requires
> they be combined into a single input. Don;t know if this isi also
> true of the other Garmin radios (430/480/580)
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> I'd say if you have enough signal to drive a VOR, the ILS will work
>> fine on same antenna via a splitter. I'm currently running two
>> navcoms, both with GS via one cat whisker antenna and splitters.
>> Works fine.
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
Don't know if they ship internationally but here is an alternative supplier.
http://www.rplastics.com/weldon10.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> Hello,
>
> since Vans doesn't ship Weld-On 10 internationaly I wonder if you know of an
alternative product to glue the windows in.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Michael
>
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (fuselage)
> #511
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| Subject: | Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
Two questions - Jesse, how much of the FE6026 is required for the five windows?
More than the one pint?
Jim, a friend of mine used the SikaFlex on his GlaStar and loved it (his windows
really look great) but he recommended against using it because SikaFlex requires
a 3/16" bed between the window and the base. We just don't have that much
depth on the -10. Otherwise, I think it would be a perfect, cost effective,
solution.
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138238#138238
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
Michael,
hundreds of GlaStar did use Silpruf SCS 2000
<http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10412_3.pdf> however you
can not paint that stuff and the GlaStar has a steel cage so it does not
need to be structural. Before that area the recommended to glue it in
with Vinylester, meanwhile that has changed to Silpruf. Jim's
recomendation below looks good to and it's easy available in
Switzerland, tensile strengths is better then Silpruf (Weld On has a bit
a vague value (bond strength) here the details for the Sikaflex
<http://chindustry.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?id=151>
I have a detailed process for the Silpruf window process to get a nice
result which I believe could be adapted for Sika too, the Sikaflex just
hardens a bit faster so you need to take that into account.
br Werner
JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
> A friend of mine used Sikaflex-296 UV for his RV-8. He avoided
> having to drill any holes in his glass for rivets by using this
> product (not that we RV-10 builders have to drill the glass). It looks
> great and appears to do the job. I've worked with it a little and it
> is so much easier to use than the Weld-On that I used for my windows.
> But, I can't really make any solid recommendations. You might try some
> of the other RV lists to see what the "consensus" is on this product.
>
> http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-ma-products.htm
>
> -Jim
> 40134 - Will this annual inspection ever end?
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/4/2007 5:08:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
>
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> since Vans doesn't ship Weld-On 10 internationaly I wonder if you
> know of an alternative product to glue the windows in.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Michael
>
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
>
> Jim "Scooter" McGrew
> http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew <http://www.mit.edu/%7Ejsmcgrew>
>
>
> See what's new at AOL.com and .
> *
>
>
> *
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
Probably the 555 which is for automotive applications would be suitable
too, same tensile strengths then the 296 tear propagation even higher
and bed can be down to 3/64"
Werner
nick@nleonard.com wrote:
>
> Two questions - Jesse, how much of the FE6026 is required for the five windows?
More than the one pint?
>
> Jim, a friend of mine used the SikaFlex on his GlaStar and loved it (his windows
really look great) but he recommended against using it because SikaFlex requires
a 3/16" bed between the window and the base. We just don't have that much
depth on the -10. Otherwise, I think it would be a perfect, cost effective,
solution.
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138238#138238
>
>
>
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