Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:21 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Mark Ritter)
2. 04:35 PM - Exterior door handles by Henkjan Van Der Zouw? (Chris Johnston)
3. 05:38 PM - Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Patrick Pulis)
4. 06:52 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Patrick Pulis)
5. 07:29 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
6. 07:48 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Dave Leikam)
7. 08:11 PM - Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal (orchidman)
8. 08:18 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Pascal)
9. 08:25 PM - Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal (Rick Sked)
10. 08:31 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Rick Sked)
11. 08:36 PM - Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal (Jae Chang)
12. 08:36 PM - Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. (John Gonzalez)
13. 08:54 PM - Re: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. (Rick Sked)
14. 08:58 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Patrick Pulis)
15. 09:11 PM - Re: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Alternatives for Weld On 10? |
My front window came out surprisingly easy. Almost to easy. It came out i
n fairly large pieces. I had used a glue recommended by a Lancair builder.
On the second window I used the Weld-0n 10.
Good turn out of RV-10's at LOE. I believe there were at least ten or elev
en there. One unpainted RV-10 had a for sale sign with a $225k asking pric
e.
Mark Ritter
RV-10/N410MR<html><div></div>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for Weld On 10?Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 1
4:52:44 -0700From: johnwcox@pacificnw.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.com--> RV1
0-List message posted by: Rick
Jesse ' thanks and any photos (when you return north) would help clarify
the process. Mark are you game on your experience. Our goal is long-term
and solid adhesion of the window material to the composite canopy through a
ll types of flying experiences.
I guess too many builders are suffering from Acetone addiction for a Friday
.
The attached photo was NOT acetone induced.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse SaintSent: Friday, October 05, 2007 2:17 P
MTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for Weld O
n 10?
Ok, ok, ok, John. I will recount my experience in short. I=92m in Ecuador
right now and working long days, so don=92t have much time to e-mail. The
short of it is that I used a rubber mallet to break the pieces of plexi lo
ose from the glue, as the middle of the windshield was already broken by wh
atever part of the Columbia hit it. It came off fairly clean, but not too
easily. The weakest link in the system is definitely the polycarbonate to
glue joint and the polycarbonate to fiberglass joint on the fairing, but it
was a pretty strong bond. From there I just ground down the glue (the FE6
026 stuff) with a die grinder with a sanding disk on it, cleaned up the gla
re shield again and started over with a new windshield.
Not a fun job.
Mark Ritter also replaced a windshield, I think. Mark, what was your exper
ience?
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: John W. Cox [mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com] Sent: Friday, October 05,
2007 2:28 PMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternative
s for Weld On 10?
No, the barb was for whoever =93as provided by David=94 is=85 that led you
astray down that ACETONE path to a replacement window.
There are lots to kudos to be said for the thankless investment of time tha
t Tim has invested. =93Thanks again Tim!=94 So future builders do not stub
their toes on the same rocks along Life=92s Highway.
Now if only Jesse will share the pictures, techniques and advise he has gle
aned from repairing that accident on one of his fleet of aircraft.. Anyone
remember the Columbia blade through the front window, Aye?
If we can=92t share, then I guess having 975+ lurkers may just be a good th
ing after all. Hopefully there will be at least one builder who doesn=92t
get crazing of the glass due to harmful chemical contact.
Chris ' keep up the enthusiasm, it can be contagious. I get lots of grea
t ideas from your progress and experimentation. I am even looking at a CNC
mill after those Kitplane articles and your efforts.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris JohnstonSent: Friday, October 05, 2007 11:
01 AMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for We
ld On 10?
Ouch. That email had a bit of a barb in it eh? Oh well, I appreciate the
information, and it is timely as well. I=92ll stick to straight mineral sp
irits I guess. And hope that the first window I did that way doesn=92t cau
se me to come tumbling out of the sky. J
John, while I appreciate the excellent info and resources that you offer to
us over-enthusiastic types, I feel that possibly this type of response, wh
ile informative and very very helpful, could possibly lead other builders w
ith thinner skin to not post questions at all. Just a thought. I=92m sure
glad I opened my mouth, because I got some good information out of doing s
o. And I=92m equally sure that you didn=92t intend your email to be as poi
nty as it sounded on first read.
Anyway, I=92ll keep asking all the idiot questions I can think of, and you
=93old fogeys=94 will hopefully keep setting me straight!
cj
(research-impaired and overly enthusiastic)
-----Original Message-----From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailt
o:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. CoxSent: Frida
y, October 05, 2007 9:20 AMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-Lis
t: Alternatives for Weld On 10?
Whoa, Chris
Every now and then, I mention the wealth of information that has been poste
d by Tim Olson and our RV-10 University archives. It seems so tragic that
the mistakes of a few can be repeatedly resurfaced due to avoiding a read.
For those who chose to be research impaired, here is a post http://www.my
rv10.com/tips/maintenance/plexi/Care_of_Plexi.pdf
For those who need a picture ' see attached.
Before using ACETONE. Understand that it is a great solvent, faster than I
sopropyl Alcohol, slower than MEK and leaves a residual. Is great for clea
ning composites prior to bonding skins together. When used on Plexiglas, L
exan or Acrylic (aircraft windows) it dehydrates natural lubricants which i
nhibit crazing.
Go ask an aircraft window supplier what they think is the consequence of AC
ETONE touching your windows. They are a real bitch to replace. It would b
e unfortunate not to revisit this subject. Also, Jesse has never shared hi
s process for replacement of that damaged windscreen and the adhesion of it
to the aircraft during initial construction and windshield replacement pro
cedure. First time builders would love to know.
Sorry Chris, your enthusiasm can sometimes overwhelm us old fogeys. I will
stand by my source of LP Plastics. Fifth paragraph Third sentence.
Been there, done that, won=92t ever, ever consider it again ' whoever Dav
id is =93as provided=94.
John ' not worth more than $00.02
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris JohnstonSent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4
:55 PMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for W
eld On 10?
I did my first window the other day using this method. Haven=92t finished
(need to lay the glass around the perimeter) but this was the procedure tha
t was recommended to install windows so you don=92t get any cracking around
the edge. Seems to work good. So far no cracking J (not flying) cj
As provided by David:
Although the procedure takes only about an hour to accomplish per window, s
etup and planning is substantially more.. I recommend that you do one windo
w to get the procs correct and plan to do the windshield on a day by itself
.
(0) tape off the inside and outside flange area of the window using 3M Fine
line (.5 width)
(1) then signstrip blue on the center areas to protect the inside and outsi
de of the window . Be generous when painting it on as this makes it easy to
pull off.
(2) sand the inside/outside edges of the window in the area of the flange t
o roughen the glass for adhesion.
(3) sand the flanges of the lid; CLEAN ALL SANDED EDGES WITH ACETONE
(4) prepare a set of aluminum "fingers" . Strips of .080 1" by 3" ; with a
slight bend in the center. one end gets a #30 hole and the other is adequat
ely taped. each is numbered. See the picture.
(5) Trim the window to fit the frame and temporarily hold in place with the
NUMBERED "fingers". Clecoes should be place about .50" outside the window.
Drill #30 only through the external layer; NOT THROUGH THE LID. RETAPE OFF
THE EDGES 3M FINELINE TAPE .
(6) prepare a mixture of epoxy with chopped fibers and cabosil. Consistency
should be peanut butter. Potlife should plan to be 30-40 minutes. We refri
gerated it to further slow the cure.
(7) putty the lid flanges, wet the window flanges with a small amount of ca
talyzed epoxy and place window in frame; holding in place with "fingers" at
the preplanned locations.
(8) inside person should be wiping excess putty away with a 50-50 mixture o
f mineral spirirts and acetone; outside person should be smoothing putty on
outside flange. excess will be sanded off later. then PULL THE TAPES BEFOR
E IT CURES.
(9) allow to cure 24 hours.
(10) Inside lid , flange should be finished . If rough, tape glass and sand
lightly.
(11) outside the lid, RETAPE the edge at the flange line, then cover the fl
ange with two 1" layers of glass (E-7782?). (Note this was the Glastar proc
edure.) Remember to pull the tape before the layered glass sets up. The wi
ndscreen on the RV10 requires a different layering of glass on the aluminum
.
(12) Retape the edge , then sand and fill external flange area for paint. T
he sanding can feather into the edge of the tape.
(13) when painted , paint should cover the flange.
(14) MUST BE DONE BEFORE THE MIXTURE CURES. If you accidentally get epoxy o
n the Plexiglas during the process, it can be safely removed using a clean
cloth and the 50-50 mixture of mineral spirits and acetone. Have it handy.
(15) 50-50 mixture is also good for removing any signstrip that does not co
me off when finally removing the protective covering before flight.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!- Play Star Shuffle:- the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc
t
Message 2
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| Subject: | Exterior door handles by Henkjan Van Der Zouw? |
hey all -
I emailed Henkjan directly, but have had no response... does anyone
know if he's selling the door handles that he made up? I thought they
looked kinda nice, and with the integral lock to boot, seems like a
winner to me. Has his email address changed? anyone purchased these
from him?
by the way... I spent this afternoon installing the door guides and
pins from Rivethead aero, and they REALLY make for a nice opening and
closing door. super sweet. I only wish that the RV-10 had 3 doors
instead of two. I just got much better at doing everything by the
second one. boy, the copilot door came out really nice. hehe.
learnin's fun.
cj
Message 3
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| Subject: | Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
Message 4
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| Subject: | Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of
the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing
only an angle of attack device.
I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the
features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans
stall warning vane and buzzer.
If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much
like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding
the success or otherwise of this approach.
Thanks in advance from downunder.
PATRICK PULIS
RV-10 #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au
Do Not Archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
I have both. I have the AFS AOA Sport version. Once calibrated the wing
stall warning vane works great, besides the buzzer I also added a light on the
panel; I like the way it works and think it's a good idea to have on the plane.
The AOA, on the other hand, can be used for more than just stall detection,
but I have had trouble with mine. I get error messages which have required
recalibration every few flights, so I've learned not to count on it working.
Recalibration has never failed to clear the errors, but I've gotten tired of
taking the 10 minutes out of my flight to perform the calibration procedure and
stopped using it. (Nothing against AFS, as I haven't taken the time to
report this to them, so I haven't given them a chance to help me fix it yet).
So, I suggest keeping the wing stall detector on there per the plans, but
install the AOA Pro for it's added functionality.
-Jim
40134 - 1st Annual Complete - Flying Again!
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
In a message dated 10/7/2007 9:54:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Patrick Pulis"
<patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of
the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing
only an angle of attack device.
I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the
features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans
stall warning vane and buzzer.
If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much
like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding
the success or otherwise of this approach.
Thanks in advance from downunder.
PATRICK PULIS
RV-10 #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
I am installing the AFS Sport and will not install the stall warning from
Van's. I think the AOA is a much better device. Just makes more sense. I
will install the indicator on my panel where it will be as easy to see as
possible. I have not flown an AOA equipped plane yet but I expect to use
that indicator on takeoff and landing almost more than airspeed.
Dave Leikam
40496
wing guts
N89DA reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane
> <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
>
> Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of
> the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing
> only an angle of attack device.
>
> I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the
> features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans
> stall warning vane and buzzer.
>
> If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much
> like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding
> the success or otherwise of this approach.
>
> Thanks in advance from downunder.
>
> PATRICK PULIS
> RV-10 #40299
> Adelaide, South Australia
> Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal |
On Page 28-13 Step 2: It is recommended to use a thin layer of Pro-Seal between
the firewall flanges and the fuselage skins. Apply Pro-Seal to the lower flange
of the F-1000A Firewall Bulkhead then cleco the Firewall Assembly to the F-1072
Fwd Fuse Bottom Skin as shown in Figure 1.
With all the discussion in the past week about aluminum heat boxes in front of
the firewall, as I read this step it got me to wondering, are they talking about
the regular Pro-Seal or the high heat Firewall Sealant available from Vans?
In the steps, it doesnt say or I dont see any implication as to why they are
suggesting the sealant. Is it to hold the structure solid like the trailing
edges of the wings, or is it to try to seal any engine fumes from making it into
the cabin or ????
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138693#138693
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
With everyone talking redundancy- I see this as redundant and more important
to me than counting on the AOA alone. Should I chose not to use it later-
fine, I can disable the buzzer but at least I'll have it until than as a
backup to the AOA, or vice versa.
Pascal
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane
> <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
>
> Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of
> the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing
> only an angle of attack device.
>
> I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the
> features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans
> stall warning vane and buzzer.
>
> If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much
> like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding
> the success or otherwise of this approach.
>
> Thanks in advance from downunder.
>
> PATRICK PULIS
> RV-10 #40299
> Adelaide, South Australia
> Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal |
Gary,
I found the same thing confusing, later it tells you to use the high heat sealant
but for the bottom, use proseal. My fix is was to use the high temp proseal
from Van's made for selaing the firewall. I used it inside and outside at the
relief cuts in the forewall and to make a nice seal around my Koolmat cover on
the firewall.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 8:11:10 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal
On Page 28-13 Step 2: It is recommended to use a thin layer of Pro-Seal between
the firewall flanges and the fuselage skins. Apply Pro-Seal to the lower flange
of the F-1000A Firewall Bulkhead then cleco the Firewall Assembly to the F-1072
Fwd Fuse Bottom Skin as shown in Figure 1.
With all the discussion in the past week about aluminum heat boxes in front of
the firewall, as I read this step it got me to wondering, are they talking about
the regular Pro-Seal or the high heat Firewall Sealant available from Vans?
In the steps, it doesnt say or I dont see any implication as to why they are
suggesting the sealant. Is it to hold the structure solid like the trailing
edges of the wings, or is it to try to seal any engine fumes from making it into
the cabin or ????
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138693#138693
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
Patrick,
I have a light, the horn and the AOA on the 3500, I figure if one or the other
fails, there is still a backup. I was not planning on using the AOA as a primary
stall indicator but for a more stabilized approach. Anyone who has flow the
RV-10 can tell you it has plenty of stall warning through the seat of your pants
let alone all the other goodies we can put in it. I can pull the CB on the
stall vane system if it gets too annoying. And besides, it came with the kit
and I would hate to let Van know he sold something to me and I didn't install
and use it, that would be like selling someone something they didn't need!! :)
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 5:27:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of
the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing
only an angle of attack device.
I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the
features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans
stall warning vane and buzzer.
If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much
like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding
the success or otherwise of this approach.
Thanks in advance from downunder.
> PATRICK PULIS
RV-10 #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au
------_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14
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<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Could anyone please indicate their
thoughts regarding the deletion of the Vans stall warning vane and
micro-switch in favour of installing only an angle of attack
device.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">I have purchased the Advanced Flight
Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the features of this device seem to
negate the need to install the Vans stall warning vane and
buzzer.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">If anyone out there has adopted this
configuration I would very much like to hear from you, with a view to
gauging your thoughts regarding the success or otherwise of this
approach.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Thanks in advance from
downunder.</FONT>
</P>
<P><B><I><FONT COLOR="#008000" SIZE=6 FACE="CityBlueprint">PATRICK
PULIS</FONT></I></B>
<BR><FONT COLOR="#000080" FACE="Arial Rounded MT Bold">RV-10
#40299</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR="#000080" FACE="Arial Rounded MT Bold">Adelaide,
South Australia</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR="#000080" FACE="Arial Rounded MT Bold">Email:
patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal |
Gary... i believe the main reason is the latter - seal out CO and other
possible combustion gases. i have seen reports of quite a pressure
gradient in other planes. higher forward and lower in the cabin, aft of
the firewall.
thus, for this purpose, proseal was good enough for me.
jae
40533
fuselage gear mounts
>
> On Page 28-13 Step 2: It is recommended to use a thin layer of Pro-Seal
> between the firewall flanges and the fuselage skins. Apply Pro-Seal to
> the lower flange of the F-1000A Firewall Bulkhead then cleco the Firewall
> Assembly to the F-1072 Fwd Fuse Bottom Skin as shown in Figure 1.
>
> With all the discussion in the past week about aluminum heat boxes in
> front of the firewall, as I read this step it got me to wondering, are
> they talking about the regular Pro-Seal or the high heat Firewall
> Sealant available from Vans? In the steps, it doesnt say or I
> dont see any implication as to why they are suggesting the sealant. Is
> it to hold the structure solid like the trailing edges of the wings, or is
> it to try to seal any engine fumes from making it into the cabin or ????
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138693#138693
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. |
I have quick build wings and I needed to install an access panel to confirm
the appropriate fuel sender travel, install the return line for the fuel
injection. In the process of cutting open the tank, I made quite a mess with
metal shavings. I did my best to minimize the amount, but they are
everywhere. I've used my shop vac and a paint brush to disslodge the
shavings that hung up on the dry proseal. I am thinking that dispite my best
efforts, I think ther estill will be quite a bit floating around once the
fuel starts sloshing around. Does anyone have suggestions, like a partial
fill and drain through a strainer before flight.
I have in line paper filters that will most likely stop the shavings before
they get to the pumps and then the fliter at the firewall, but I want to get
the most that I can out before it gets to these filters.
JOhn #409
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. |
Just a thought John,
Use some denatured alcohol and slosh it around working the fluid towards the drain.
It is not as flammable as petrol and it will evaporate without residue fairly
quickly. I'm sure there must be some flames coming my way for this suggestion
but that's what I would do. Hopefully the tank is removed from the wing,
that will make sloshing much easier ;)
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 8:36:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks.
I have quick build wings and I needed to install an access panel to confirm
the appropriate fuel sender travel, install the return line for the fuel
injection. In the process of cutting open the tank, I made quite a mess with
metal shavings. I did my best to minimize the amount, but they are
everywhere. I've used my shop vac and a paint brush to disslodge the
shavings that hung up on the dry proseal. I am thinking that dispite my best
efforts, I think ther estill will be quite a bit floating around once the
fuel starts sloshing around. Does anyone have suggestions, like a partial
fill and drain through a strainer before flight.
I have in line paper filters that will most likely stop the shavings before
they get to the pumps and then the fliter at the firewall, but I want to get
the most that I can out before it gets to these filters.
JOhn #409
Message 14
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| Subject: | Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
Thanks for all your great responses guys.
Regards
Pat
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Monday, 8 October 2007 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane
Patrick,
I have a light, the horn and the AOA on the 3500, I figure if one or the
other fails, there is still a backup. I was not planning on using the
AOA as a primary stall indicator but for a more stabilized approach.
Anyone who has flow the RV-10 can tell you it has plenty of stall
warning through the seat of your pants let alone all the other goodies
we can put in it. I can pull the CB on the stall vane system if it gets
too annoying. And besides, it came with the kit and I would hate to let
Van know he sold something to me and I didn't install and use it, that
would be like selling someone something they didn't need!! :)
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 5:27:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane
--> <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14"
<< MIME_ATTACHMENT_STRIPPED >>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
------_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14--
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. |
I'd use water first, good flush, then follow with isopropyl
alcohol...much safer for the sealant and aluminum than denatured(aka
methanol). Get the 90+ % pure, and it will absorb and remove water from
first flush.
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> Just a thought John,
>
> Use some denatured alcohol and slosh it around working the fluid towards the
drain. It is not as flammable as petrol and it will evaporate without residue
fairly quickly. I'm sure there must be some flames coming my way for this suggestion
but that's what I would do. Hopefully the tank is removed from the wing,
that will make sloshing much easier ;)
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> To: RV10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 8:36:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks.
>
>
> I have quick build wings and I needed to install an access panel to confirm
> the appropriate fuel sender travel, install the return line for the fuel
> injection. In the process of cutting open the tank, I made quite a mess with
> metal shavings. I did my best to minimize the amount, but they are
> everywhere. I've used my shop vac and a paint brush to disslodge the
> shavings that hung up on the dry proseal. I am thinking that dispite my best
> efforts, I think ther estill will be quite a bit floating around once the
> fuel starts sloshing around. Does anyone have suggestions, like a partial
> fill and drain through a strainer before flight.
>
> I have in line paper filters that will most likely stop the shavings before
> they get to the pumps and then the fliter at the firewall, but I want to get
> the most that I can out before it gets to these filters.
>
>
> JOhn #409
>
>
>
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