Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane

---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 10/07/07: 15 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:21 PM - Re: Alternatives for Weld On 10? (Mark Ritter) 2. 04:35 PM - Exterior door handles by Henkjan Van Der Zouw? (Chris Johnston) 3. 05:38 PM - Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Patrick Pulis) 4. 06:52 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Patrick Pulis) 5. 07:29 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (JSMcGrew@aol.com) 6. 07:48 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Dave Leikam) 7. 08:11 PM - Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal (orchidman) 8. 08:18 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Pascal) 9. 08:25 PM - Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal (Rick Sked) 10. 08:31 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Rick Sked) 11. 08:36 PM - Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal (Jae Chang) 12. 08:36 PM - Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. (John Gonzalez) 13. 08:54 PM - Re: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. (Rick Sked) 14. 08:58 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane (Patrick Pulis) 15. 09:11 PM - Re: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. (Kelly McMullen) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:21:59 PM PST US From: Mark Ritter Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for Weld On 10? My front window came out surprisingly easy. Almost to easy. It came out i n fairly large pieces. I had used a glue recommended by a Lancair builder. On the second window I used the Weld-0n 10. Good turn out of RV-10's at LOE. I believe there were at least ten or elev en there. One unpainted RV-10 had a for sale sign with a $225k asking pric e. Mark Ritter RV-10/N410MR

Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for Weld On 10?Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 1 4:52:44 -0700From: johnwcox@pacificnw.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.com--> RV1 0-List message posted by: Rick Jesse ' thanks and any photos (when you return north) would help clarify the process. Mark are you game on your experience. Our goal is long-term and solid adhesion of the window material to the composite canopy through a ll types of flying experiences. I guess too many builders are suffering from Acetone addiction for a Friday .. The attached photo was NOT acetone induced. John From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse SaintSent: Friday, October 05, 2007 2:17 P MTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for Weld O n 10? Ok, ok, ok, John. I will recount my experience in short. I=92m in Ecuador right now and working long days, so don=92t have much time to e-mail. The short of it is that I used a rubber mallet to break the pieces of plexi lo ose from the glue, as the middle of the windshield was already broken by wh atever part of the Columbia hit it. It came off fairly clean, but not too easily. The weakest link in the system is definitely the polycarbonate to glue joint and the polycarbonate to fiberglass joint on the fairing, but it was a pretty strong bond. From there I just ground down the glue (the FE6 026 stuff) with a die grinder with a sanding disk on it, cleaned up the gla re shield again and started over with a new windshield. Not a fun job. Mark Ritter also replaced a windshield, I think. Mark, what was your exper ience? Do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 From: John W. Cox [mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com] Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 2:28 PMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternative s for Weld On 10? No, the barb was for whoever =93as provided by David=94 is=85 that led you astray down that ACETONE path to a replacement window. There are lots to kudos to be said for the thankless investment of time tha t Tim has invested. =93Thanks again Tim!=94 So future builders do not stub their toes on the same rocks along Life=92s Highway. Now if only Jesse will share the pictures, techniques and advise he has gle aned from repairing that accident on one of his fleet of aircraft.. Anyone remember the Columbia blade through the front window, Aye? If we can=92t share, then I guess having 975+ lurkers may just be a good th ing after all. Hopefully there will be at least one builder who doesn=92t get crazing of the glass due to harmful chemical contact. Chris ' keep up the enthusiasm, it can be contagious. I get lots of grea t ideas from your progress and experimentation. I am even looking at a CNC mill after those Kitplane articles and your efforts. John From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris JohnstonSent: Friday, October 05, 2007 11: 01 AMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for We ld On 10? Ouch. That email had a bit of a barb in it eh? Oh well, I appreciate the information, and it is timely as well. I=92ll stick to straight mineral sp irits I guess. And hope that the first window I did that way doesn=92t cau se me to come tumbling out of the sky. J John, while I appreciate the excellent info and resources that you offer to us over-enthusiastic types, I feel that possibly this type of response, wh ile informative and very very helpful, could possibly lead other builders w ith thinner skin to not post questions at all. Just a thought. I=92m sure glad I opened my mouth, because I got some good information out of doing s o. And I=92m equally sure that you didn=92t intend your email to be as poi nty as it sounded on first read. Anyway, I=92ll keep asking all the idiot questions I can think of, and you =93old fogeys=94 will hopefully keep setting me straight! cj (research-impaired and overly enthusiastic) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailt o:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. CoxSent: Frida y, October 05, 2007 9:20 AMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-Lis t: Alternatives for Weld On 10? Whoa, Chris Every now and then, I mention the wealth of information that has been poste d by Tim Olson and our RV-10 University archives. It seems so tragic that the mistakes of a few can be repeatedly resurfaced due to avoiding a read. For those who chose to be research impaired, here is a post http://www.my rv10.com/tips/maintenance/plexi/Care_of_Plexi.pdf For those who need a picture ' see attached. Before using ACETONE. Understand that it is a great solvent, faster than I sopropyl Alcohol, slower than MEK and leaves a residual. Is great for clea ning composites prior to bonding skins together. When used on Plexiglas, L exan or Acrylic (aircraft windows) it dehydrates natural lubricants which i nhibit crazing. Go ask an aircraft window supplier what they think is the consequence of AC ETONE touching your windows. They are a real bitch to replace. It would b e unfortunate not to revisit this subject. Also, Jesse has never shared hi s process for replacement of that damaged windscreen and the adhesion of it to the aircraft during initial construction and windshield replacement pro cedure. First time builders would love to know. Sorry Chris, your enthusiasm can sometimes overwhelm us old fogeys. I will stand by my source of LP Plastics. Fifth paragraph Third sentence. Been there, done that, won=92t ever, ever consider it again ' whoever Dav id is =93as provided=94. John ' not worth more than $00.02 From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris JohnstonSent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4 :55 PMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Alternatives for W eld On 10? I did my first window the other day using this method. Haven=92t finished (need to lay the glass around the perimeter) but this was the procedure tha t was recommended to install windows so you don=92t get any cracking around the edge. Seems to work good. So far no cracking J (not flying) cj As provided by David: Although the procedure takes only about an hour to accomplish per window, s etup and planning is substantially more.. I recommend that you do one windo w to get the procs correct and plan to do the windshield on a day by itself . (0) tape off the inside and outside flange area of the window using 3M Fine line (.5 width) (1) then signstrip blue on the center areas to protect the inside and outsi de of the window . Be generous when painting it on as this makes it easy to pull off. (2) sand the inside/outside edges of the window in the area of the flange t o roughen the glass for adhesion. (3) sand the flanges of the lid; CLEAN ALL SANDED EDGES WITH ACETONE (4) prepare a set of aluminum "fingers" . Strips of .080 1" by 3" ; with a slight bend in the center. one end gets a #30 hole and the other is adequat ely taped. each is numbered. See the picture. (5) Trim the window to fit the frame and temporarily hold in place with the NUMBERED "fingers". Clecoes should be place about .50" outside the window. Drill #30 only through the external layer; NOT THROUGH THE LID. RETAPE OFF THE EDGES 3M FINELINE TAPE . (6) prepare a mixture of epoxy with chopped fibers and cabosil. Consistency should be peanut butter. Potlife should plan to be 30-40 minutes. We refri gerated it to further slow the cure. (7) putty the lid flanges, wet the window flanges with a small amount of ca talyzed epoxy and place window in frame; holding in place with "fingers" at the preplanned locations. (8) inside person should be wiping excess putty away with a 50-50 mixture o f mineral spirirts and acetone; outside person should be smoothing putty on outside flange. excess will be sanded off later. then PULL THE TAPES BEFOR E IT CURES. (9) allow to cure 24 hours. (10) Inside lid , flange should be finished . If rough, tape glass and sand lightly. (11) outside the lid, RETAPE the edge at the flange line, then cover the fl ange with two 1" layers of glass (E-7782?). (Note this was the Glastar proc edure.) Remember to pull the tape before the layered glass sets up. The wi ndscreen on the RV10 requires a different layering of glass on the aluminum .. (12) Retape the edge , then sand and fill external flange area for paint. T he sanding can feather into the edge of the tape. (13) when painted , paint should cover the flange. (14) MUST BE DONE BEFORE THE MIXTURE CURES. If you accidentally get epoxy o n the Plexiglas during the process, it can be safely removed using a clean cloth and the 50-50 mixture of mineral spirits and acetone. Have it handy. (15) 50-50 mixture is also good for removing any signstrip that does not co me off when finally removing the protective covering before flight. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts!- Play Star Shuffle:- the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc t ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:35:22 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Exterior door handles by Henkjan Van Der Zouw? From: "Chris Johnston" hey all - I emailed Henkjan directly, but have had no response... does anyone know if he's selling the door handles that he made up? I thought they looked kinda nice, and with the integral lock to boot, seems like a winner to me. Has his email address changed? anyone purchased these from him? by the way... I spent this afternoon installing the door guides and pins from Rivethead aero, and they REALLY make for a nice opening and closing door. super sweet. I only wish that the RV-10 had 3 doors instead of two. I just got much better at doing everything by the second one. boy, the copilot door came out really nice. hehe. learnin's fun. cj ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:38:12 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane From: "Patrick Pulis" ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:52:39 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane From: "Patrick Pulis" Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing only an angle of attack device. I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans stall warning vane and buzzer. If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding the success or otherwise of this approach. Thanks in advance from downunder. PATRICK PULIS RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:29:17 PM PST US From: JSMcGrew@aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane I have both. I have the AFS AOA Sport version. Once calibrated the wing stall warning vane works great, besides the buzzer I also added a light on the panel; I like the way it works and think it's a good idea to have on the plane. The AOA, on the other hand, can be used for more than just stall detection, but I have had trouble with mine. I get error messages which have required recalibration every few flights, so I've learned not to count on it working. Recalibration has never failed to clear the errors, but I've gotten tired of taking the 10 minutes out of my flight to perform the calibration procedure and stopped using it. (Nothing against AFS, as I haven't taken the time to report this to them, so I haven't given them a chance to help me fix it yet). So, I suggest keeping the wing stall detector on there per the plans, but install the AOA Pro for it's added functionality. -Jim 40134 - 1st Annual Complete - Flying Again! Jim "Scooter" McGrew _http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew) In a message dated 10/7/2007 9:54:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Patrick Pulis" Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing only an angle of attack device. I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans stall warning vane and buzzer. If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding the success or otherwise of this approach. Thanks in advance from downunder. PATRICK PULIS RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:48:45 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane I am installing the AFS Sport and will not install the stall warning from Van's. I think the AOA is a much better device. Just makes more sense. I will install the indicator on my panel where it will be as easy to see as possible. I have not flown an AOA equipped plane yet but I expect to use that indicator on takeoff and landing almost more than airspeed. Dave Leikam 40496 wing guts N89DA reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Pulis" Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane > > > Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of > the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing > only an angle of attack device. > > I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the > features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans > stall warning vane and buzzer. > > If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much > like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding > the success or otherwise of this approach. > > Thanks in advance from downunder. > > PATRICK PULIS > RV-10 #40299 > Adelaide, South Australia > Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au > > Do Not Archive > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:11:40 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal From: "orchidman" On Page 28-13 Step 2: It is recommended to use a thin layer of Pro-Seal between the firewall flanges and the fuselage skins. Apply Pro-Seal to the lower flange of the F-1000A Firewall Bulkhead then cleco the Firewall Assembly to the F-1072 Fwd Fuse Bottom Skin as shown in Figure 1. With all the discussion in the past week about aluminum heat boxes in front of the firewall, as I read this step it got me to wondering, are they talking about the regular Pro-Seal or the high heat Firewall Sealant available from Vans? In the steps, it doesnt say or I dont see any implication as to why they are suggesting the sealant. Is it to hold the structure solid like the trailing edges of the wings, or is it to try to seal any engine fumes from making it into the cabin or ???? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138693#138693 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:18:16 PM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane With everyone talking redundancy- I see this as redundant and more important to me than counting on the AOA alone. Should I chose not to use it later- fine, I can disable the buzzer but at least I'll have it until than as a backup to the AOA, or vice versa. Pascal Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Pulis" Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 6:51 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane > > > Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of > the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing > only an angle of attack device. > > I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the > features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans > stall warning vane and buzzer. > > If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much > like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding > the success or otherwise of this approach. > > Thanks in advance from downunder. > > PATRICK PULIS > RV-10 #40299 > Adelaide, South Australia > Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au > > Do Not Archive > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:25:59 PM PST US From: Rick Sked Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal Gary, I found the same thing confusing, later it tells you to use the high heat sealant but for the bottom, use proseal. My fix is was to use the high temp proseal from Van's made for selaing the firewall. I used it inside and outside at the relief cuts in the forewall and to make a nice seal around my Koolmat cover on the firewall. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 8:11:10 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal On Page 28-13 Step 2: It is recommended to use a thin layer of Pro-Seal between the firewall flanges and the fuselage skins. Apply Pro-Seal to the lower flange of the F-1000A Firewall Bulkhead then cleco the Firewall Assembly to the F-1072 Fwd Fuse Bottom Skin as shown in Figure 1. With all the discussion in the past week about aluminum heat boxes in front of the firewall, as I read this step it got me to wondering, are they talking about the regular Pro-Seal or the high heat Firewall Sealant available from Vans? In the steps, it doesnt say or I dont see any implication as to why they are suggesting the sealant. Is it to hold the structure solid like the trailing edges of the wings, or is it to try to seal any engine fumes from making it into the cabin or ???? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Fuselage SB (N410GB reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138693#138693 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:31:24 PM PST US From: Rick Sked Subject: Re: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane Patrick, I have a light, the horn and the AOA on the 3500, I figure if one or the other fails, there is still a backup. I was not planning on using the AOA as a primary stall indicator but for a more stabilized approach. Anyone who has flow the RV-10 can tell you it has plenty of stall warning through the seat of your pants let alone all the other goodies we can put in it. I can pull the CB on the stall vane system if it gets too annoying. And besides, it came with the kit and I would hate to let Van know he sold something to me and I didn't install and use it, that would be like selling someone something they didn't need!! :) Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Pulis" Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 5:27:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14" ------_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing only an angle of attack device. I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans stall warning vane and buzzer. If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding the success or otherwise of this approach. Thanks in advance from downunder. > PATRICK PULIS RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au ------_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane

Could anyone please indicate their thoughts regarding the deletion of the Vans stall warning vane and micro-switch in favour of installing only an angle of attack device.

I have purchased the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack Pro and the features of this device seem to negate the need to install the Vans stall warning vane and buzzer.

If anyone out there has adopted this configuration I would very much like to hear from you, with a view to gauging your thoughts regarding the success or otherwise of this approach.

Thanks in advance from downunder.

PATRICK PULIS
RV-10 #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au

------_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14-- ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:38 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal From: "Jae Chang" Gary... i believe the main reason is the latter - seal out CO and other possible combustion gases. i have seen reports of quite a pressure gradient in other planes. higher forward and lower in the cabin, aft of the firewall. thus, for this purpose, proseal was good enough for me. jae 40533 fuselage gear mounts > > On Page 28-13 Step 2: It is recommended to use a thin layer of Pro-Seal > between the firewall flanges and the fuselage skins. Apply Pro-Seal to > the lower flange of the F-1000A Firewall Bulkhead then cleco the Firewall > Assembly to the F-1072 Fwd Fuse Bottom Skin as shown in Figure 1. > > With all the discussion in the past week about aluminum heat boxes in > front of the firewall, as I read this step it got me to wondering, are > they talking about the regular Pro-Seal or the high heat Firewall > Sealant available from Vans? In the steps, it doesnt say or I > dont see any implication as to why they are suggesting the sealant. Is > it to hold the structure solid like the trailing edges of the wings, or is > it to try to seal any engine fumes from making it into the cabin or ???? > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Fuselage SB > (N410GB reserved) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138693#138693 > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:58 PM PST US From: "John Gonzalez" Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. I have quick build wings and I needed to install an access panel to confirm the appropriate fuel sender travel, install the return line for the fuel injection. In the process of cutting open the tank, I made quite a mess with metal shavings. I did my best to minimize the amount, but they are everywhere. I've used my shop vac and a paint brush to disslodge the shavings that hung up on the dry proseal. I am thinking that dispite my best efforts, I think ther estill will be quite a bit floating around once the fuel starts sloshing around. Does anyone have suggestions, like a partial fill and drain through a strainer before flight. I have in line paper filters that will most likely stop the shavings before they get to the pumps and then the fliter at the firewall, but I want to get the most that I can out before it gets to these filters. JOhn #409 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:54:13 PM PST US From: Rick Sked Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. Just a thought John, Use some denatured alcohol and slosh it around working the fluid towards the drain. It is not as flammable as petrol and it will evaporate without residue fairly quickly. I'm sure there must be some flames coming my way for this suggestion but that's what I would do. Hopefully the tank is removed from the wing, that will make sloshing much easier ;) Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 8:36:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. I have quick build wings and I needed to install an access panel to confirm the appropriate fuel sender travel, install the return line for the fuel injection. In the process of cutting open the tank, I made quite a mess with metal shavings. I did my best to minimize the amount, but they are everywhere. I've used my shop vac and a paint brush to disslodge the shavings that hung up on the dry proseal. I am thinking that dispite my best efforts, I think ther estill will be quite a bit floating around once the fuel starts sloshing around. Does anyone have suggestions, like a partial fill and drain through a strainer before flight. I have in line paper filters that will most likely stop the shavings before they get to the pumps and then the fliter at the firewall, but I want to get the most that I can out before it gets to these filters. JOhn #409 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:58:02 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane From: "Patrick Pulis" Thanks for all your great responses guys. Regards Pat Do Not Archive -----Original Message----- From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com] Sent: Monday, 8 October 2007 1:01 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane Patrick, I have a light, the horn and the AOA on the 3500, I figure if one or the other fails, there is still a backup. I was not planning on using the AOA as a primary stall indicator but for a more stabilized approach. Anyone who has flow the RV-10 can tell you it has plenty of stall warning through the seat of your pants let alone all the other goodies we can put in it. I can pull the CB on the stall vane system if it gets too annoying. And besides, it came with the kit and I would hate to let Van know he sold something to me and I didn't install and use it, that would be like selling someone something they didn't need!! :) Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Pulis" Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 5:27:21 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane --> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14" << MIME_ATTACHMENT_STRIPPED >>

------_=_NextPart_001_01C80941.FDE28A14-- ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:11:38 PM PST US From: Kelly McMullen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. I'd use water first, good flush, then follow with isopropyl alcohol...much safer for the sealant and aluminum than denatured(aka methanol). Get the 90+ % pure, and it will absorb and remove water from first flush. Rick Sked wrote: > > Just a thought John, > > Use some denatured alcohol and slosh it around working the fluid towards the drain. It is not as flammable as petrol and it will evaporate without residue fairly quickly. I'm sure there must be some flames coming my way for this suggestion but that's what I would do. Hopefully the tank is removed from the wing, that will make sloshing much easier ;) > > Rick S. > 40185 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Gonzalez" > To: RV10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2007 8:36:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles > Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum shavings in the fuel tanks. > > > I have quick build wings and I needed to install an access panel to confirm > the appropriate fuel sender travel, install the return line for the fuel > injection. In the process of cutting open the tank, I made quite a mess with > metal shavings. I did my best to minimize the amount, but they are > everywhere. I've used my shop vac and a paint brush to disslodge the > shavings that hung up on the dry proseal. I am thinking that dispite my best > efforts, I think ther estill will be quite a bit floating around once the > fuel starts sloshing around. Does anyone have suggestions, like a partial > fill and drain through a strainer before flight. > > I have in line paper filters that will most likely stop the shavings before > they get to the pumps and then the fliter at the firewall, but I want to get > the most that I can out before it gets to these filters. > > > JOhn #409 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.