Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:18 AM - Re: Another RV-10 in the air (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Jesse Saint)
3. 05:55 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Deems Davis)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Rene Felker)
5. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: Drillbit extensions (Patrick ONeill)
6. 06:21 AM - New trim servo controller (=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=)
7. 06:25 AM - Re: Re: Drillbit extensions (Patrick ONeill)
8. 06:37 AM - Re: Re: Drillbit extensions (Patrick ONeill)
9. 06:40 AM - Re: Horizon 1 to SL wiring (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
10. 11:36 AM - Re: Drillbit extensions (Michael Wellenzohn)
11. 01:04 PM - Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Bobby J. Hughes)
12. 01:16 PM - Aileron deflection (John Dunne)
13. 01:31 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
14. 02:38 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Jesse Saint)
15. 02:41 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
16. 02:44 PM - Chelton Cable Lengths? (Jesse Saint)
17. 02:52 PM - Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors (MauleDriver)
18. 03:02 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Chris and Susie McGough)
19. 03:33 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Tim Olson)
20. 03:33 PM - Tail strobe light wires (ddnebert)
21. 03:45 PM - Re: Horizon 1 to SL wiring (McGANN, Ron)
22. 04:17 PM - Re: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors (Larry Rosen)
23. 04:23 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Larry Rosen)
24. 05:00 PM - Riveting Question (Bob Leffler)
25. 05:12 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Rick Sked)
26. 05:17 PM - Re: Tail strobe light wires (Jesse Saint)
27. 05:19 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Jesse Saint)
28. 05:24 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Pascal)
29. 05:44 PM - Re: Tail strobe light wires (Larry Rosen)
30. 06:08 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Marcus Cooper)
31. 06:08 PM - Aircraft Paint scheme (Fred Williams, M.D.)
32. 07:27 PM - Re: Aircraft Paint scheme (Ben Westfall)
33. 07:51 PM - Re: Tail strobe light wires (ddnebert)
34. 08:26 PM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Rene)
35. 08:42 PM - Re: Aileron deflection (DejaVu)
36. 10:53 PM - fuel tank gotchas for the learning impaired (Ben Westfall)
37. 11:20 PM - Re: Aileron deflection (John Dunne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Another RV-10 in the air |
Congratulations on getting airborne for your first flight. It's a great
feeling when you get to that day but then you land a realize that you
still have a lot of work left to do :>} But it's a lot easier when you
know you can take it back up for another spin.
Good luck on your fly off eh
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
flying do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
What size of breaker do you have? Are you sure it's a good breaker? What
switch are you using? It does sound like either bad wiring or a bad FPS.
The slow running of the flaps tells me that power is being lost somewhere.
In fact, I wonder if somehow, with the switch in the center, the switch is
grounding the positive wire somehow, which is causing it. Do you have a
DPDT switch or a SPDT switch? With the symptoms you describe, I would say
that maybe in the neutral position, one of the polls is somehow shorting to
ground, which would be the poll that is positive when going down, which
would be negative when going up.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Rene [mailto:rene@felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
Anybody have any ideas?
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Problems |
Rene, I believe that you may have a defective FPS. some time ago when I
1st installed the system , I went through a test of it, and found that
the leads didn't respond correctly to a continuity check, or operate
correctly when a battery and switch was connected to them. i contacted
the vendor (show planes?) and they were aware of a problem they had with
one of their 'batches' since they distribute them through others they
couldn't notify customers. but after i described the symptoms, they
asked me to return it and they promptly sent out a replacement, which
worked just fine. IIRC the problem was an internally wiring error.
Judging by your builder number its possible you purchased yours from the
same batch I did.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rene wrote:
>
> I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
> when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
> the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
> keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
> trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
>
> Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Rene'
> 40322
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
Thanks Deems, Jesse and Rick. When I get back to the hanger tonight I will
do a little more trouble shooting.
I did send Show Planes an e-mail last night explaining my problem, I will
let you know what they say.
Thanks again.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
Rene, I believe that you may have a defective FPS. some time ago when I
1st installed the system , I went through a test of it, and found that
the leads didn't respond correctly to a continuity check, or operate
correctly when a battery and switch was connected to them. i contacted
the vendor (show planes?) and they were aware of a problem they had with
one of their 'batches' since they distribute them through others they
couldn't notify customers. but after i described the symptoms, they
asked me to return it and they promptly sent out a replacement, which
worked just fine. IIRC the problem was an internally wiring error.
Judging by your builder number its possible you purchased yours from the
same batch I did.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rene wrote:
>
> I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
> when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down
switch,
> the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If
I
> keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
> trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
>
> Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Rene'
> 40322
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
So Avery has one eh? How in the heck did I miss that. I thought I made all
the rounds to check the preferred places.
How many extensions did you end up needing (Avery + how many regular 12") to
get all the ribs under the QB attached bottom skins?
Also where do they caution against using larger than 3/4" hole? I've seen
others use and was thinking about running the Van's nylon conduit and I
think it requires a bit larger than that.
Unfortunately, I'm in So-Cal otherwise I'd take you up on the offer and put
an end to this item!
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 2:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions
I just went through this on my 10 QB wings. The other issue is that any
head that holds a 3/8 shank is bigger than the max 3/4" recommended hole.
Avery tools makes a 12" extension where the size of the head has been cut
down to just fit through the 3/4" hole yet it holds a 3/8" shank. Works
great. Plus, although not necessary for this portion of the project, you
can easily extend the 12" extension with standard 1/4 " extenders since the
shank of the Avery tool is 1/4".
Of course, if you live in South Florida, you're welcome to borrow mine :^)
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138717#138717
Message 6
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| Subject: | New trim servo controller |
Fellow RV builders,
I would like to make you all aware of a new product I am introducing to the
homebuilt community.
We have developed a trim servo controller that eliminates the problems of
run-away trim and inoperative trim conditions.
Our new servo controller is called Safety-Trim and it provides speed control,
direction control, emergency reversing and time limited motion of standard
trim servos, such as the Ray Allen series.
We've been flying Safety-Trim in our Glastar and recently introduced it at
a local EAA fly-in in Toms River, NJ. 1 and 2 axis units are now available.
Please visit. www.tcwtech.com for all the details.
Please contact me off list at: rnewman@tcwtech.com
Best regards,
Bob Newman
RV-10. #40176
Glastar N99RN
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
Hi Michael,
What size hole did you end up drilling for the Van's conduit?
Also what did you do if anything to secure the conduit in place?
Thanks!
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions
Patrick,
I used an extension I got from Avery tools and but a metric Unibit in. I
drilled the holes to the perfect size so that the Vans conduits fitted
nicely once you got it in.
http://www.averytools.com/p-533-6-12-step-drill-extensions.aspx
check out my website
www.wellenzohn.net
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138776#138776
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
Hi John,
I didn't consider that a smaller Unibit might have a smaller shank. Very
helpful!
How did you go about making a template? I was thinking about making a
second conduit run for most of the wire runs and using the one called for in
the plans for the strobe. I'm not quite sure how to make the most effective
template for this. That would certainly simplify things.
But that does help a lot, thank you very much.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 7:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions
Patrick,
I just finished that step. Instead of enlarging, I put in another set of
holes. Here's how I did it. First, made a template so they would line up. In
the open bays, I used a #30 to start a pilot hole, then followed up with a
unibit to 3/8". This size is perfect for a #4 snap bushing. Instead of the
unibit I got from Avery, I went to the Home Depot Aviation Supply Store and
bought a #1 unibit, which has a 1/4" shank. It was easier to use in my
smaller Sioux drill (it fits in a bay).
For the areas that have been skinned, I started a pilot hole in the wing
root rib using the same template with a #30. I marked the next rib with the
template and then pulled out the 12 inch long #30 I got from Avery. Once the
second rib is drilled, the two holes acted as a guide for the rest. You do
need to pull the inspection port a little further in, but you get the
picture.
Next, I went to the Ace Hardware Aviation Supply Store and bought a metal
cutting 12 inch long 3/8" drill bit. After using the unibit on the wing root
pilot hole, I switched over to the long 3/8" bit and it went like a dream.
Used my hand held cordless set to a high speed because the shank is 3/8".
If you have already skinned everything in, the outer bays could still be
done with the shank extensions you talked about. Using the smaller #1
unibit, you could assemble it in place between each rib. Drill the hole,
disassemble, and repeat. Hope this helps.
John
poneill(at)irealms.com wrote:
> I'm planning to enlarge the wiring run holes in the QB wings in the next
> week or two and I am trying to locate a source for a drill bit extension
> that will accommodate the unibit's 3/8" shank. I can find many 1/4" and
> 7/16" shank extensions, but so far I have found none for a bit with 3/8"
> shank.
>
> The ones I have been looking at are the 12" or 18" extensions (planned on
> using several as required) with Allen head screws to secure the bit in the
> extension. I don't believe an extension for a 7/16" shank would work
> because of the difficulties centering the bit. The last thing I want is a
> crazed unibit wreaking havoc inside the wings.
>
> I know some homegrown solutions were discussed here not long ago, but does
> anyone have a good recommendation or online source for such extensions?
>
> Best Regards,
> Patrick #40715
--------
#40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138767#138767
Message 9
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| Subject: | Horizon 1 to SL wiring |
Ron,
Actually serial port 1 is available even though there is an ARINC module
installed (not true when the GPS module is installed). The port is
limited to low speed (19,200 or less) though when the ARINC module is
there. In practical terms this means that about the only thing you
can't use port 1 for (on the DU with the ARINC module) is the XM weather
module.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
(AUS BAeA)
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring
For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this during my
final wiring check:
Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit EFIS
Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description
Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects to
expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion
port NOT used)"
Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same.
I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20 definitions
above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available to me -
they are used to interface to the ARINC Module.
WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and indicates
that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module installed.
Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module and SL30.
Where is the error, or what am I missing?
Cheers,
Ron
187 still trying to finish
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
Patrick,
the unibit is I guess 22mm in diameter and I could enlarge the holes slightly so
that the conduit fitted just through with some pulling and bending. It is now
caught in the holes and doesn't move at all so it is not necessary to secure
it.
Michael
(VP-200 arrived :D )
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138986#138986
Message 11
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| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
Message 12
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| Subject: | Aileron deflection |
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the
measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing
edge when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of
control linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
Message 13
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| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is
not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
Message 14
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| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Where does one find these numbers? Did I miss that e-mail?
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Lloyd, Daniel R. [mailto:LloydDR@wernerco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is not
painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel burn
and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing results on
his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is
not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Chelton Cable Lengths? |
Tim and any others who have installed Cheltons, can you tell me the wiring
lengths from the PFD to GADAHRS, OAT Probe, MSU, etc.?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 17
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| Subject: | Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors |
At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place:
- (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt scheme
- (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids
- (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes
- (1) power line for strobe power supply
- (1) power for tail light
- (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim
Yet to go are:
- (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip or
upper fuse
- (2) Van's conduit for future revisions
- (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??)
Remaining questions are:
- What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel
- Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome
light and (??)
- Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives
but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along one
of the sides?
I'm assuming:
- That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or in
cabin top
- Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips
- Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid
interference with control system
All comments welcome.
Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson
Durham NC #40605
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Ok hows yours going Dan? speed that is. Sounds a great plane indeed!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Lloyd, Daniel R.
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 7:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing results on
his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it
is not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good
fuel burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Dan,
Do you know if the IO-540 numbers they're posting are without fairings
as well? They should really be 10-15 Ktas faster at 14K if they're
with fairings, and that would be a cruise performance number, not a
top speed.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is
> not painted....
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bobby J. Hughes
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
>
> Dan,
>
> Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
> burn and speed at altitude.
>
> Bobby
> 40116
Message 20
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| Subject: | Tail strobe light wires |
OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout. Once
I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get routed
before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the guidance
(yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that I'll have to
remove.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037
Message 21
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| Subject: | Horizon 1 to SL wiring |
Thanks Bob.
Your explanation is supported by the following overnight response from
GRT:
"You can run the SL-30 on serial 1 with the ARINC module. The SL-30 does
not work however if you have the internal GPS module on serial 1.
We have to update that in the Connector Description."
I guess they still have some doco catchup to do - but their customer
support/responsiveness is awesome.
cheers,
Ron
187
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, 9 October 2007 11:10 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring
Ron,
Actually serial port 1 is available even though there is an
ARINC module installed (not true when the GPS module is installed). The
port is limited to low speed (19,200 or less) though when the ARINC
module is there. In practical terms this means that about the only
thing you can't use port 1 for (on the DU with the ARINC module) is the
XM weather module.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
(AUS BAeA)
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:18 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring
For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this
during my final wiring check:
Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit
EFIS Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description
Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects
to expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion
port NOT used)"
Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same.
I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20
definitions above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available
to me - they are used to interface to the ARINC Module.
WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and
indicates that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module
installed.
Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module
and SL30. Where is the error, or what am I missing?
Cheers,
Ron
187 still trying to finish
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
email to
your computer."
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors |
How about:
Pitch trim for autopilot. TT uses (1) 20AWG power, (1) 20AWG ground,
(6) 22AWG control. (use Stein's pre-twisted bundle
<http://www.steinair.com/wire.htm>
Run an RG-400 for a gps or some other antenna that you may want to add
to the rear of the canopy
Run the static line along with the wire.
Consider pulling some spare twisted pairs. I added a 3 and a 4
conductor. Who knows what I will use them for.
Consider 1 larger wire for the battery feed to a fuse block forward.
Will there be rudder trim in the future? (there's another 7 wires)
For the Chelton MSU (I will mount the GHARDS up front) you need (1) 3
conductor 22AWG shielded, (2) 22AWG power, (4) 22AWG ground
Strobe ground or ground local.
Larry Rosen
#356
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place:
> - (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt
> scheme
> - (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids
> - (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes
> - (1) power line for strobe power supply
> - (1) power for tail light
> - (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim
> Yet to go are:
> - (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip
> or upper fuse
> - (2) Van's conduit for future revisions
> - (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??)
>
> Remaining questions are:
> - What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel
> - Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome
> light and (??)
> - Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives
> but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along one
> of the sides?
>
> I'm assuming:
> - That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or
> in cabin top
> - Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips
> - Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid
> interference with control system
>
> All comments welcome.
>
> Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson
> Durham NC #40605
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
For those that are looking for the performance numbers, I found them here:
<http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/Performance%20Page.htm> to the
middle of the page
Larry
Message 24
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| Subject: | Riveting Question |
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm
having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the
last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set
first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two
rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big.
I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the
moment.
Thanks,
Bob
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
Oldie but a goodie Bob,
I used a cold chisel wedged into the trailing edge with the back rivet unde
r the bottom skin and it came out OK, there are several ways but that was m
ine, others may chime in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 4:58:31 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I
=99m having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how t
o set the last rivet towards the trailing edge.=C2-=C2- The rivet on th
e top skin is set first, but there isn=99t ample room to get my no ho
le in between to the two rivets =C2-(top and bottom) to squeeze and clear
ly any bucking bar is too big.
I=99m sure there must be an obvious solution, I=99m just not se
eing it at the moment.
Thanks,
Bob
====
=======================
Message 26
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| Subject: | Tail strobe light wires |
I would highly recommending using K1000-06 nutplates in place of the pop
rivets on the rudder bottom fairing. You will be glad you did when you have
to get at those wires again. It will also be helpful if you decide to add
rudder trim down the road.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: ddnebert [mailto:doug@mapcontext.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires
OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout.
Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get
routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the
guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that
I'll have to remove.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037
Message 27
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| Subject: | Riveting Question |
I don't know about this specific part, but in cases like this using a pop
rivet is probably acceptable.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rvmail@thelefflers.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 7:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm
having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the
last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set
first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two
rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big.
I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the
moment.
Thanks,
Bob
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
pop rivet with the MK-319-BS - it will be fine structurally.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance,
I'm having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to
set the last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top
skin is set first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in
between to the two rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any
bucking bar is too big.
I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at
the moment.
Thanks,
Bob
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Tail strobe light wires |
I would use 04 nut plates and screws.
Vans Wire harness plans have you making a 3/16 hole through the F-1012
Fuselage Bulkhead stack up. Centered between the lower two bolts.
Larry Rosen
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I would highly recommending using K1000-06 nutplates in place of the pop
> rivets on the rudder bottom fairing. You will be glad you did when you have
> to get at those wires again. It will also be helpful if you decide to add
> rudder trim down the road.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ddnebert [mailto:doug@mapcontext.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:33 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires
>
>
> OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout.
> Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get
> routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the
> guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that
> I'll have to remove.
>
> --------
> RV-10 Builder #40546
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Tim,
Interesting question you pose since it appears the numbers posted are
from your airplane ;) If you click on the 'Actual Performance numbers' it
takes you to the performance page on your website. I guess it just goes to
show that your website truly is the source of all things useful for the
RV-10!
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Do you know if the IO-540 numbers they're posting are without fairings
as well? They should really be 10-15 Ktas faster at 14K if they're
with fairings, and that would be a cruise performance number, not a
top speed.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is
> not painted....
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bobby J.
Hughes
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
>
> Dan,
>
> Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
> burn and speed at altitude.
>
> Bobby
> 40116
Message 31
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| Subject: | Aircraft Paint scheme |
I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint
scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I
googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out
and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had
people submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man
over in Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I
used the line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color.
Then had him do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final
drawing.
The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is:
mohsinfk@yahoo.com
The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds
transfer) Guru.com
Fred Williams
40515
guess where I live
Message 32
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| Subject: | Aircraft Paint scheme |
Fred,
Looks pretty good! I liked the lines. Here is my version (modified with
the free image editor Paint.NET http://www.getpaint.net)
-Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Paint scheme
I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint
scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I
googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out
and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had
people submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man
over in Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I
used the line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color.
Then had him do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final
drawing.
The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is:
mohsinfk@yahoo.com
The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds
transfer) Guru.com
Fred Williams
40515
guess where I live
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Tail strobe light wires |
Thanks. Larry sent me the pages from section OP37- that must come with the finishing
kit. I'm only on the fuselage but am wanting to finish things up more as
I go. I carefully installed #6 screw nutplates to hold the strobe/position light
to the end of the fairing and will spiral wrap the wires so they can slide
all the way in and out in case of repair. Since they go up to a gap in the front
of the fairing, I think I can snake 'em if I need to. I'll skip the nutplate
suggestion.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139095#139095
Message 34
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
Rick thanks for pointing out the obvious....you were right. Here is the
response I got from Show Planes.
Rene',
Do not use the extra relay deck you have installed, the FPS does not require
that even if you are using a reduced current capacity switch. If the toggle
switch has been replaced make sure it operates in the same fashion as the
original. Also make sure the actuator is completely retracted before making
the required set up adjustment.
Let me know if you need further assistance,
Bryan Milani
Well, my sticks are not wired for a powered switch so I just disconnected
the ground return on the normally closed relays and guess what, the flaps
work. Yea. So for all y'all who have not put in your flap positioning
system, you can not ground the control lines on the FPS. They have to be
powered, one at a time for up and down, or disconnected.
Rene'
N423CF
40322 Finish, or something like it......getting close to engine start...
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
Rene,
Sounds like your wired wrong. I know, no sh*t. The FPS is gounded with the
flap motor gets constant power from the buss then switched power from the
switch to either up, which will continue to raise until the limit is reached
and the motor will stop or down, where the motor will stop at the three
predetermined points. Double check to make sure your not feeding constant
power into the up or down leads. Isolate each power lead and check for a
short to ground, make sure your getting infinity readings on your grounds
and not grounding back through the system somewhere which might show up as a
high resistance vs. a good ground. Other than that remove the FPS altogther
does the flap work OK through the full range? If so it's working OK. Verify
the schematic is the correct one, If I recall and don't hold me to it I
believe you use the RV-8 wiring diagram from FPS to correctly hook up the
module for the RV-10.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene" <rene@felker.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 9:08:02 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
Anybody have any ideas?
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection |
John,
This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down.
Anh
N591VU-flying
----- Original Message -----
From: John Dunne
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the measure
ment between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing edge when i
t is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of control linkages? I
s it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
Message 36
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| Subject: | fuel tank gotchas for the learning impaired |
We skipped finishing up the tanks with proseal when we had originally got to
that point nearly 8 months ago because it was too cold in the garage.
Summer came around and it was too hot. I figured we were out of excuses and
that we needed to get them done before it was too cold once again. After
two full days this weekend of working with the "Black Death" I am not so
patiently waiting for the proseal to set up before performing the leak test.
I have a couple words of wisdom for those that still have the honor of
finishing up your tanks. Not about the proseal part cause I sucked at that
I am sure but.
1) Before riveting the T-1012 Tank Attach Zee's to the tanks test fit
each of them between the flanges of the wing spars while it's still easy to
run the edges across your scotchbrite wheel. I have been handily taking off
the primer and several thousandths of aluminum from their edges while
carefully filing them thinner so they will slip between the wing spar
flanges.
2) Check the rear most nutplates where the tanks screw into the splice
strip on the outboard leading edge assemblies for clearance from the wing
spar flange. The rear most rivet on the last nutplate was so close to the
flange that I feared it would contact it when the gas tank was fitted. I am
sure if this did happen it would make my wings snap in half in flight one
day so I drilled out the nutplates and replaced them with MS21053-L08's (the
one's with both rivet holes on one side). I figure the rear #40 hole that
is now empty will make my plane that much lighter which I will need to keep
up with the turbo Subie!
3) This is my favorite. When we finished riveting the last of the
rear tank baffle we removed the tanks from the cradle and turned them over
so they were sitting on the bench with the leading edge up. Our hopes were
that the bead of proseal would let gravity help it flow into the seams
around the tank baffle (proseal flow. that's funny). To my horror I heard a
clunking as I rotated it. Be sure you double check that your float arms are
correctly clipped in place before subjecting them to a life without
sunshine. I know they are substandard at best but I am pretty sure they
don't work for s*#t bouncing and sloshing around unattached. So I don't
offend anyone on the list I will just say we.
a) removed the sender and the non-prosealed rubber gasket
b) removed the sender w/o the gasket
c) removed the sender, rubber gasket, and cleaned off the proseal
d) removed the sender and re-coated with fuel lube
e) chiseled away at the TIG weld around the sender
(John Cox - circle your favorite answer)
.rescued the float arm and reinstalled the assembly per a, b, c,
d, (hell no on e) above!
This should save you several hours of cleanup work from not paying enough
attention during the original fitting.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
Message 37
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| Subject: | Aileron deflection |
Thanks Anh, I'm just trying to eyeball the setup to make sure it looks right
and check the clearances.
John 40315
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, 10 October 2007 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
John,
This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down.
Anh
N591VU-flying
----- Original Message -----
From: John <mailto:acs@acspropeller.com.au> Dunne
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the
measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing edge
when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of control
linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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