---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 10/09/07: 37 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:18 AM - Re: Another RV-10 in the air (Wayne Edgerton) 2. 05:13 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Jesse Saint) 3. 05:55 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Deems Davis) 4. 06:14 AM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Rene Felker) 5. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: Drillbit extensions (Patrick ONeill) 6. 06:21 AM - New trim servo controller (=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=) 7. 06:25 AM - Re: Re: Drillbit extensions (Patrick ONeill) 8. 06:37 AM - Re: Re: Drillbit extensions (Patrick ONeill) 9. 06:40 AM - Re: Horizon 1 to SL wiring (Condrey, Bob (US SSA)) 10. 11:36 AM - Re: Drillbit extensions (Michael Wellenzohn) 11. 01:04 PM - Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Bobby J. Hughes) 12. 01:16 PM - Aileron deflection (John Dunne) 13. 01:31 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 14. 02:38 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Jesse Saint) 15. 02:41 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 16. 02:44 PM - Chelton Cable Lengths? (Jesse Saint) 17. 02:52 PM - Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors (MauleDriver) 18. 03:02 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Chris and Susie McGough) 19. 03:33 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Tim Olson) 20. 03:33 PM - Tail strobe light wires (ddnebert) 21. 03:45 PM - Re: Horizon 1 to SL wiring (McGANN, Ron) 22. 04:17 PM - Re: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors (Larry Rosen) 23. 04:23 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Larry Rosen) 24. 05:00 PM - Riveting Question (Bob Leffler) 25. 05:12 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Rick Sked) 26. 05:17 PM - Re: Tail strobe light wires (Jesse Saint) 27. 05:19 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Jesse Saint) 28. 05:24 PM - Re: Riveting Question (Pascal) 29. 05:44 PM - Re: Tail strobe light wires (Larry Rosen) 30. 06:08 PM - Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers (Marcus Cooper) 31. 06:08 PM - Aircraft Paint scheme (Fred Williams, M.D.) 32. 07:27 PM - Re: Aircraft Paint scheme (Ben Westfall) 33. 07:51 PM - Re: Tail strobe light wires (ddnebert) 34. 08:26 PM - Re: Flap Positioning System Problems (Rene) 35. 08:42 PM - Re: Aileron deflection (DejaVu) 36. 10:53 PM - fuel tank gotchas for the learning impaired (Ben Westfall) 37. 11:20 PM - Re: Aileron deflection (John Dunne) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:18:38 AM PST US From: "Wayne Edgerton" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Another RV-10 in the air Congratulations on getting airborne for your first flight. It's a great feeling when you get to that day but then you land a realize that you still have a lot of work left to do :>} But it's a lot easier when you know you can take it back up for another spin. Good luck on your fly off eh Wayne Edgerton N602WT flying do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:57 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems What size of breaker do you have? Are you sure it's a good breaker? What switch are you using? It does sound like either bad wiring or a bad FPS. The slow running of the flaps tells me that power is being lost somewhere. In fact, I wonder if somehow, with the switch in the center, the switch is grounding the positive wire somehow, which is causing it. Do you have a DPDT switch or a SPDT switch? With the symptoms you describe, I would say that maybe in the neutral position, one of the polls is somehow shorting to ground, which would be the poll that is positive when going down, which would be negative when going up. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: Rene [mailto:rene@felker.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but, when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch, the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up. Anybody have any ideas? Rene' 40322 N423CF 801-721-6080 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:55:53 AM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems Rene, I believe that you may have a defective FPS. some time ago when I 1st installed the system , I went through a test of it, and found that the leads didn't respond correctly to a continuity check, or operate correctly when a battery and switch was connected to them. i contacted the vendor (show planes?) and they were aware of a problem they had with one of their 'batches' since they distribute them through others they couldn't notify customers. but after i described the symptoms, they asked me to return it and they promptly sent out a replacement, which worked just fine. IIRC the problem was an internally wiring error. Judging by your builder number its possible you purchased yours from the same batch I did. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Rene wrote: > > I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but, > when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch, > the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I > keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not > trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up. > > Anybody have any ideas? > > Rene' > 40322 > N423CF > 801-721-6080 > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:14:22 AM PST US From: "Rene Felker" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems Thanks Deems, Jesse and Rick. When I get back to the hanger tonight I will do a little more trouble shooting. I did send Show Planes an e-mail last night explaining my problem, I will let you know what they say. Thanks again. Rene' Felker N423CF 40322 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:56 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems Rene, I believe that you may have a defective FPS. some time ago when I 1st installed the system , I went through a test of it, and found that the leads didn't respond correctly to a continuity check, or operate correctly when a battery and switch was connected to them. i contacted the vendor (show planes?) and they were aware of a problem they had with one of their 'batches' since they distribute them through others they couldn't notify customers. but after i described the symptoms, they asked me to return it and they promptly sent out a replacement, which worked just fine. IIRC the problem was an internally wiring error. Judging by your builder number its possible you purchased yours from the same batch I did. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Rene wrote: > > I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but, > when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch, > the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I > keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not > trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up. > > Anybody have any ideas? > > Rene' > 40322 > N423CF > 801-721-6080 > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:21 AM PST US From: "Patrick ONeill" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions So Avery has one eh? How in the heck did I miss that. I thought I made all the rounds to check the preferred places. How many extensions did you end up needing (Avery + how many regular 12") to get all the ribs under the QB attached bottom skins? Also where do they caution against using larger than 3/4" hole? I've seen others use and was thinking about running the Van's nylon conduit and I think it requires a bit larger than that. Unfortunately, I'm in So-Cal otherwise I'd take you up on the offer and put an end to this item! Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 2:50 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions I just went through this on my 10 QB wings. The other issue is that any head that holds a 3/8 shank is bigger than the max 3/4" recommended hole. Avery tools makes a 12" extension where the size of the head has been cut down to just fit through the 3/4" hole yet it holds a 3/8" shank. Works great. Plus, although not necessary for this portion of the project, you can easily extend the 12" extension with standard 1/4 " extenders since the shank of the Avery tool is 1/4". Of course, if you live in South Florida, you're welcome to borrow mine :^) Tom Hanaway Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138717#138717 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:21:01 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: New trim servo controller From: "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" Fellow RV builders, I would like to make you all aware of a new product I am introducing to the homebuilt community. We have developed a trim servo controller that eliminates the problems of run-away trim and inoperative trim conditions. Our new servo controller is called Safety-Trim and it provides speed control, direction control, emergency reversing and time limited motion of standard trim servos, such as the Ray Allen series. We've been flying Safety-Trim in our Glastar and recently introduced it at a local EAA fly-in in Toms River, NJ. 1 and 2 axis units are now available. Please visit. www.tcwtech.com for all the details. Please contact me off list at: rnewman@tcwtech.com Best regards, Bob Newman RV-10. #40176 Glastar N99RN Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:25:08 AM PST US From: "Patrick ONeill" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions Hi Michael, What size hole did you end up drilling for the Van's conduit? Also what did you do if anything to secure the conduit in place? Thanks! Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:40 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions Patrick, I used an extension I got from Avery tools and but a metric Unibit in. I drilled the holes to the perfect size so that the Vans conduits fitted nicely once you got it in. http://www.averytools.com/p-533-6-12-step-drill-extensions.aspx check out my website www.wellenzohn.net Michael -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138776#138776 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:37:08 AM PST US From: "Patrick ONeill" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions Hi John, I didn't consider that a smaller Unibit might have a smaller shank. Very helpful! How did you go about making a template? I was thinking about making a second conduit run for most of the wire runs and using the one called for in the plans for the strobe. I'm not quite sure how to make the most effective template for this. That would certainly simplify things. But that does help a lot, thank you very much. Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 7:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions Patrick, I just finished that step. Instead of enlarging, I put in another set of holes. Here's how I did it. First, made a template so they would line up. In the open bays, I used a #30 to start a pilot hole, then followed up with a unibit to 3/8". This size is perfect for a #4 snap bushing. Instead of the unibit I got from Avery, I went to the Home Depot Aviation Supply Store and bought a #1 unibit, which has a 1/4" shank. It was easier to use in my smaller Sioux drill (it fits in a bay). For the areas that have been skinned, I started a pilot hole in the wing root rib using the same template with a #30. I marked the next rib with the template and then pulled out the 12 inch long #30 I got from Avery. Once the second rib is drilled, the two holes acted as a guide for the rest. You do need to pull the inspection port a little further in, but you get the picture. Next, I went to the Ace Hardware Aviation Supply Store and bought a metal cutting 12 inch long 3/8" drill bit. After using the unibit on the wing root pilot hole, I switched over to the long 3/8" bit and it went like a dream. Used my hand held cordless set to a high speed because the shank is 3/8". If you have already skinned everything in, the outer bays could still be done with the shank extensions you talked about. Using the smaller #1 unibit, you could assemble it in place between each rib. Drill the hole, disassemble, and repeat. Hope this helps. John poneill(at)irealms.com wrote: > I'm planning to enlarge the wiring run holes in the QB wings in the next > week or two and I am trying to locate a source for a drill bit extension > that will accommodate the unibit's 3/8" shank. I can find many 1/4" and > 7/16" shank extensions, but so far I have found none for a bit with 3/8" > shank. > > The ones I have been looking at are the 12" or 18" extensions (planned on > using several as required) with Allen head screws to secure the bit in the > extension. I don't believe an extension for a 7/16" shank would work > because of the difficulties centering the bit. The last thing I want is a > crazed unibit wreaking havoc inside the wings. > > I know some homegrown solutions were discussed here not long ago, but does > anyone have a good recommendation or online source for such extensions? > > Best Regards, > Patrick #40715 -------- #40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138767#138767 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:40:25 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" Ron, Actually serial port 1 is available even though there is an ARINC module installed (not true when the GPS module is installed). The port is limited to low speed (19,200 or less) though when the ARINC module is there. In practical terms this means that about the only thing you can't use port 1 for (on the DU with the ARINC module) is the XM weather module. Bob #40105 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron (AUS BAeA) Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:18 PM Subject: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this during my final wiring check: Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit EFIS Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects to expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion port NOT used)" Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same. I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20 definitions above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available to me - they are used to interface to the ARINC Module. WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and indicates that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module installed. Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module and SL30. Where is the error, or what am I missing? Cheers, Ron 187 still trying to finish "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:36:30 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions From: "Michael Wellenzohn" Patrick, the unibit is I guess 22mm in diameter and I could enlarge the holes slightly so that the conduit fitted just through with some pulling and bending. It is now caught in the holes and doesn't move at all so it is not necessary to secure it. Michael (VP-200 arrived :D ) -------- RV-10 builder (fuselage) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138986#138986 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:04:40 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers From: "Bobby J. Hughes" Dan, Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel burn and speed at altitude. Bobby 40116 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:16:37 PM PST US From: "John Dunne" Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing edge when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of control linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so? Thanks John 40315 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:31:51 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is not painted.... Dan N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Dan, Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel burn and speed at altitude. Bobby 40116 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:38:18 PM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Where does one find these numbers? Did I miss that e-mail? Do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: Lloyd, Daniel R. [mailto:LloydDR@wernerco.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is not painted.... Dan N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Dan, Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel burn and speed at altitude. Bobby 40116 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:41:48 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing results on his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to. Dan N289DT RV10E _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is not painted.... Dan N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Dan, Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel burn and speed at altitude. Bobby 40116 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:44:48 PM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RV10-List: Chelton Cable Lengths? Tim and any others who have installed Cheltons, can you tell me the wiring lengths from the PFD to GADAHRS, OAT Probe, MSU, etc.? Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:52:52 PM PST US From: MauleDriver Subject: RV10-List: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place: - (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt scheme - (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids - (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes - (1) power line for strobe power supply - (1) power for tail light - (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim Yet to go are: - (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip or upper fuse - (2) Van's conduit for future revisions - (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??) Remaining questions are: - What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel - Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome light and (??) - Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along one of the sides? I'm assuming: - That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or in cabin top - Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips - Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid interference with control system All comments welcome. Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson Durham NC #40605 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:32 PM PST US From: "Chris and Susie McGough" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Ok hows yours going Dan? speed that is. Sounds a great plane indeed! Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Lloyd, Daniel R. To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 7:33 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing results on his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to. Dan N289DT RV10E ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is not painted.... Dan N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Dan, Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel burn and speed at altitude. Bobby 40116 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:33:35 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Dan, Do you know if the IO-540 numbers they're posting are without fairings as well? They should really be 10-15 Ktas faster at 14K if they're with fairings, and that would be a cruise performance number, not a top speed. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote: > without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is > not painted.... > Dan > N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bobby J. Hughes > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers > > Dan, > > Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel > burn and speed at altitude. > > Bobby > 40116 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:33:35 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires From: "ddnebert" OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout. Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that I'll have to remove. -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037 ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:45:36 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring From: "McGANN, Ron" Thanks Bob. Your explanation is supported by the following overnight response from GRT: "You can run the SL-30 on serial 1 with the ARINC module. The SL-30 does not work however if you have the internal GPS module on serial 1. We have to update that in the Connector Description." I guess they still have some doco catchup to do - but their customer support/responsiveness is awesome. cheers, Ron 187 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Sent: Tuesday, 9 October 2007 11:10 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring Ron, Actually serial port 1 is available even though there is an ARINC module installed (not true when the GPS module is installed). The port is limited to low speed (19,200 or less) though when the ARINC module is there. In practical terms this means that about the only thing you can't use port 1 for (on the DU with the ARINC module) is the XM weather module. Bob #40105 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron (AUS BAeA) Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:18 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this during my final wiring check: Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit EFIS Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects to expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion port NOT used)" Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same. I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20 definitions above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available to me - they are used to interface to the ARINC Module. WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and indicates that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module installed. Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module and SL30. Where is the error, or what am I missing? Cheers, Ron 187 still trying to finish "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:17:09 PM PST US From: Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors How about: Pitch trim for autopilot. TT uses (1) 20AWG power, (1) 20AWG ground, (6) 22AWG control. (use Stein's pre-twisted bundle Run an RG-400 for a gps or some other antenna that you may want to add to the rear of the canopy Run the static line along with the wire. Consider pulling some spare twisted pairs. I added a 3 and a 4 conductor. Who knows what I will use them for. Consider 1 larger wire for the battery feed to a fuse block forward. Will there be rudder trim in the future? (there's another 7 wires) For the Chelton MSU (I will mount the GHARDS up front) you need (1) 3 conductor 22AWG shielded, (2) 22AWG power, (4) 22AWG ground Strobe ground or ground local. Larry Rosen #356 MauleDriver wrote: > > At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place: > - (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt > scheme > - (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids > - (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes > - (1) power line for strobe power supply > - (1) power for tail light > - (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim > Yet to go are: > - (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip > or upper fuse > - (2) Van's conduit for future revisions > - (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??) > > Remaining questions are: > - What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel > - Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome > light and (??) > - Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives > but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along one > of the sides? > > I'm assuming: > - That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or > in cabin top > - Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips > - Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid > interference with control system > > All comments welcome. > > Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson > Durham NC #40605 > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:23:35 PM PST US From: Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers For those that are looking for the performance numbers, I found them here: to the middle of the page Larry ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 05:00:35 PM PST US From: "Bob Leffler" Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big. I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the moment. Thanks, Bob ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:12:16 PM PST US From: Rick Sked Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting Question Oldie but a goodie Bob, I used a cold chisel wedged into the trailing edge with the back rivet unde r the bottom skin and it came out OK, there are several ways but that was m ine, others may chime in. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Leffler" Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 4:58:31 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I =99m having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how t o set the last rivet towards the trailing edge.=C2-=C2- The rivet on th e top skin is set first, but there isn=99t ample room to get my no ho le in between to the two rivets =C2-(top and bottom) to squeeze and clear ly any bucking bar is too big. I=99m sure there must be an obvious solution, I=99m just not se eing it at the moment. Thanks, Bob ==== ======================= ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:17:53 PM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires I would highly recommending using K1000-06 nutplates in place of the pop rivets on the rudder bottom fairing. You will be glad you did when you have to get at those wires again. It will also be helpful if you decide to add rudder trim down the road. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: ddnebert [mailto:doug@mapcontext.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout. Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that I'll have to remove. -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037 ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:19:30 PM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Riveting Question I don't know about this specific part, but in cases like this using a pop rivet is probably acceptable. Do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rvmail@thelefflers.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big. I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the moment. Thanks, Bob ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:55 PM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting Question pop rivet with the MK-319-BS - it will be fine structurally. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:58 PM Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big. I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the moment. Thanks, Bob ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:44:12 PM PST US From: Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires I would use 04 nut plates and screws. Vans Wire harness plans have you making a 3/16 hole through the F-1012 Fuselage Bulkhead stack up. Centered between the lower two bolts. Larry Rosen Jesse Saint wrote: > > I would highly recommending using K1000-06 nutplates in place of the pop > rivets on the rudder bottom fairing. You will be glad you did when you have > to get at those wires again. It will also be helpful if you decide to add > rudder trim down the road. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > www.saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > -----Original Message----- > From: ddnebert [mailto:doug@mapcontext.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:33 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires > > > OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout. > Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get > routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the > guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that > I'll have to remove. > > -------- > RV-10 Builder #40546 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037 > > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:08:14 PM PST US From: "Marcus Cooper" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Tim, Interesting question you pose since it appears the numbers posted are from your airplane ;) If you click on the 'Actual Performance numbers' it takes you to the performance page on your website. I guess it just goes to show that your website truly is the source of all things useful for the RV-10! Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers Dan, Do you know if the IO-540 numbers they're posting are without fairings as well? They should really be 10-15 Ktas faster at 14K if they're with fairings, and that would be a cruise performance number, not a top speed. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote: > without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is > not painted.... > Dan > N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bobby J. Hughes > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers > > Dan, > > Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel > burn and speed at altitude. > > Bobby > 40116 ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:08:34 PM PST US From: "Fred Williams, M.D." Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Paint scheme I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had people submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man over in Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I used the line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color. Then had him do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final drawing. The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is: mohsinfk@yahoo.com The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds transfer) Guru.com Fred Williams 40515 guess where I live ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:27:20 PM PST US From: "Ben Westfall" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Paint scheme Fred, Looks pretty good! I liked the lines. Here is my version (modified with the free image editor Paint.NET http://www.getpaint.net) -Ben 40579 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:07 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Paint scheme I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had people submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man over in Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I used the line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color. Then had him do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final drawing. The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is: mohsinfk@yahoo.com The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds transfer) Guru.com Fred Williams 40515 guess where I live ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 07:51:20 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tail strobe light wires From: "ddnebert" Thanks. Larry sent me the pages from section OP37- that must come with the finishing kit. I'm only on the fuselage but am wanting to finish things up more as I go. I carefully installed #6 screw nutplates to hold the strobe/position light to the end of the fairing and will spiral wrap the wires so they can slide all the way in and out in case of repair. Since they go up to a gap in the front of the fairing, I think I can snake 'em if I need to. I'll skip the nutplate suggestion. -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139095#139095 ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 08:26:31 PM PST US From: "Rene" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems Rick thanks for pointing out the obvious....you were right. Here is the response I got from Show Planes. Rene', Do not use the extra relay deck you have installed, the FPS does not require that even if you are using a reduced current capacity switch. If the toggle switch has been replaced make sure it operates in the same fashion as the original. Also make sure the actuator is completely retracted before making the required set up adjustment. Let me know if you need further assistance, Bryan Milani Well, my sticks are not wired for a powered switch so I just disconnected the ground return on the normally closed relays and guess what, the flaps work. Yea. So for all y'all who have not put in your flap positioning system, you can not ground the control lines on the FPS. They have to be powered, one at a time for up and down, or disconnected. Rene' N423CF 40322 Finish, or something like it......getting close to engine start... 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 10:26 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems Rene, Sounds like your wired wrong. I know, no sh*t. The FPS is gounded with the flap motor gets constant power from the buss then switched power from the switch to either up, which will continue to raise until the limit is reached and the motor will stop or down, where the motor will stop at the three predetermined points. Double check to make sure your not feeding constant power into the up or down leads. Isolate each power lead and check for a short to ground, make sure your getting infinity readings on your grounds and not grounding back through the system somewhere which might show up as a high resistance vs. a good ground. Other than that remove the FPS altogther does the flap work OK through the full range? If so it's working OK. Verify the schematic is the correct one, If I recall and don't hold me to it I believe you use the RV-8 wiring diagram from FPS to correctly hook up the module for the RV-10. Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene" Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 9:08:02 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but, when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch, the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up. Anybody have any ideas? Rene' 40322 N423CF 801-721-6080 ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 08:42:44 PM PST US From: "DejaVu" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron deflection John, This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down. Anh N591VU-flying ----- Original Message ----- From: John Dunne To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the measure ment between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing edge when i t is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of control linkages? I s it 1", 2" or so? Thanks John 40315 ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 10:53:34 PM PST US From: "Ben Westfall" Subject: RV10-List: fuel tank gotchas for the learning impaired We skipped finishing up the tanks with proseal when we had originally got to that point nearly 8 months ago because it was too cold in the garage. Summer came around and it was too hot. I figured we were out of excuses and that we needed to get them done before it was too cold once again. After two full days this weekend of working with the "Black Death" I am not so patiently waiting for the proseal to set up before performing the leak test. I have a couple words of wisdom for those that still have the honor of finishing up your tanks. Not about the proseal part cause I sucked at that I am sure but. 1) Before riveting the T-1012 Tank Attach Zee's to the tanks test fit each of them between the flanges of the wing spars while it's still easy to run the edges across your scotchbrite wheel. I have been handily taking off the primer and several thousandths of aluminum from their edges while carefully filing them thinner so they will slip between the wing spar flanges. 2) Check the rear most nutplates where the tanks screw into the splice strip on the outboard leading edge assemblies for clearance from the wing spar flange. The rear most rivet on the last nutplate was so close to the flange that I feared it would contact it when the gas tank was fitted. I am sure if this did happen it would make my wings snap in half in flight one day so I drilled out the nutplates and replaced them with MS21053-L08's (the one's with both rivet holes on one side). I figure the rear #40 hole that is now empty will make my plane that much lighter which I will need to keep up with the turbo Subie! 3) This is my favorite. When we finished riveting the last of the rear tank baffle we removed the tanks from the cradle and turned them over so they were sitting on the bench with the leading edge up. Our hopes were that the bead of proseal would let gravity help it flow into the seams around the tank baffle (proseal flow. that's funny). To my horror I heard a clunking as I rotated it. Be sure you double check that your float arms are correctly clipped in place before subjecting them to a life without sunshine. I know they are substandard at best but I am pretty sure they don't work for s*#t bouncing and sloshing around unattached. So I don't offend anyone on the list I will just say we. a) removed the sender and the non-prosealed rubber gasket b) removed the sender w/o the gasket c) removed the sender, rubber gasket, and cleaned off the proseal d) removed the sender and re-coated with fuel lube e) chiseled away at the TIG weld around the sender (John Cox - circle your favorite answer) .rescued the float arm and reinstalled the assembly per a, b, c, d, (hell no on e) above! This should save you several hours of cleanup work from not paying enough attention during the original fitting. Ben Westfall #40579 PDX ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 11:20:24 PM PST US From: "John Dunne" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron deflection Thanks Anh, I'm just trying to eyeball the setup to make sure it looks right and check the clearances. John 40315 Do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu Sent: Wednesday, 10 October 2007 1:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron deflection John, This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down. Anh N591VU-flying ----- Original Message ----- From: John Dunne Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing edge when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of control linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so? Thanks John 40315 p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.