Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:31 AM - Re: Extra parts for sale (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 04:06 AM - Re: Interior (Russell Daves)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: Interior (Tim Olson)
4. 06:13 AM - Re: Extra parts for sale (dougpflyrv@aol.com)
5. 07:23 AM - Re: Extra parts for sale (Bill & Tami Britton)
6. 07:41 AM - Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 08:02 AM - Re: Rudder trim input needed (johngoodman)
8. 08:43 AM - Re: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08 (Bill DeRouchey)
9. 11:31 AM - Re: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. (Jesse Saint)
10. 11:56 AM - Pitot Tube Placement (Chuck Weyant)
11. 11:58 AM - Re: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. (linn Walters)
12. 12:42 PM - Re: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. (John Cleary)
13. 01:12 PM - Re: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
14. 04:50 PM - Re: Rudder trim input needed (plevenda@jvlv.lv)
15. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: Extra parts for sale (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
16. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: Extra parts for sale (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
17. 06:20 PM - Re: Extra parts for sale (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
18. 06:25 PM - Re: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages (RobHickman@aol.com)
19. 07:52 PM - Re: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08 (Kelly McMullen)
20. 08:06 PM - Grumpy's extra parts (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
21. 08:06 PM - Re: Interior (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
22. 11:07 PM - Re: Interior (Chris and Susie McGough)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
If the door pins are still available I'd love to take them. Does anyone on the
list offer the pin set?
Mine might get delivered in the next 100 month or so. [Wink]
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140026#140026
Message 2
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The Flightline Interior side panels go on with a combination of screws
and velcro.
I installed the Flightline Interior on my RV-10, but after the install I
suggested to Abby that certain modifications be made to her design.
Abby is great to work with, and when you order if you specifically
request certain things she will do it the way you desire. I really like
the interior she provided.
If Abby has not yet incorporated some of my suggestions into her pattern
for the RV-10 interior, I would suggest that you request that Abby:
1. NOT sew the carpet portion of the side panels that cover the
outside rear passenger footwell (goes on with velcro) to the fiberboard
side panel (which goes on with screws) and covers the side panel from in
front of the pilot's seat to the rear of the door.
2. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet at the point the rudder
cables exit the tunnel, down to the floor, so that the tunnel cover
carpet can be removed without disengaging the rudder cables.
3. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet from the bottom of the
pilot's seat belt attachment mount on the tunnel side wall, to the floor
of the rear passenger footwell, so that the tunnel cover carpet can be
removed without removing the seat belt attachment bolts.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 175+ hours
Time: 10:20:57 PM PST US
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Subject: Interior
I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join the
forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations for
the
best installation of the interior... which will most likely be one
from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put directly on
to
alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down first?
To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering
putting
something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for spills
(I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel without
coffee).
Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the
interior
kit that I will need to paint?
Is there anything that those of you who have gone before would
like
to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Message 3
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Russell Daves wrote:
> The Flightline Interior side panels go on with a combination of screws
> and velcro.
>
> I installed the Flightline Interior on my RV-10, but after the install I
> suggested to Abby that certain modifications be made to her design.
> Abby is great to work with, and when you order if you specifically
> request certain things she will do it the way you desire. I really like
> the interior she provided.
>
> If Abby has not yet incorporated some of my suggestions into her pattern
> for the RV-10 interior, I would suggest that you request that Abby:
>
> 1. NOT sew the carpet portion of the side panels that cover the
> outside rear passenger footwell (goes on with velcro) to the fiberboard
> side panel (which goes on with screws) and covers the side panel from in
> front of the pilot's seat to the rear of the door.
>
My entire side carpet and trim piece below the door is secured with
velcro strips for no-screw removal. Abby can get you long rolls
of velcro in a cost effective way if you want to use it to secure
some of the panels.
> 2. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet at the point the rudder
> cables exit the tunnel, down to the floor, so that the tunnel cover
> carpet can be removed without disengaging the rudder cables.
>
I don't believe she cuts the holes for the rudder cables, so
this would be something that the builder could do, to cut a
slit to make this work.
> 3. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet from the bottom of the
> pilot's seat belt attachment mount on the tunnel side wall, to the floor
> of the rear passenger footwell, so that the tunnel cover carpet can be
> removed without removing the seat belt attachment bolts.
>
This one wouldn't be a bad mod at all. Ideally you could have
the rear carpet be a little longer, and the front carpet
have a nicely trimmed seam that overlaps the rear by a couple
inches. I'll mention this to her too. Sure is nice though
that there's so little to complain about with her stuff. ;)
As for the areas to paint, there isn't much. You probably
want to paint your door posts, and basically a couple
inches or so around all of the openings, in case an edge gets
exposed, and at the gusset area by the aft corners of the
windshield. You may want to paint your glareshield, even if
you plan to cover it later. You may want to paint the
forward ribs and walls from about the air vents forward.
You'll want to paint the seat pedestals and especially the
face where the stick comes out, and all the brackets
associated with the seats and seat belts. On the rear
seats, you may want to paint the hinge areas.
Beyond that, I don't personally know how bad the corrosion
would be if you got wet carpeting and had it covering
plain alclad. Personally, I Akzo epoxy primed all of the
lower interior to seal it, but YMMV. On the cabin top I
also sanded lightly and sprayed some areas with a
paint/primer/sealer mix...not much, but just to give a good
gluing surface that was less porous for around the edges.
Tim
> Russ Daves
> N710RV - 175+ hours
>
>
>
>
> **
> *Time: *
> */10:20:57 PM PST US/*
>
> *From: * */Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com
> <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>>/*
>
> *Subject: * /*_Interior_*/
>
>
>
> I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join the
> forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations for the
> best installation of the interior... which will most likely be one
> from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
> attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put directly on to
> alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down first?
>
> To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering putting
> something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for spills
> (I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel without
> coffee).
>
> Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the interior
> kit that I will need to paint?
>
> Is there anything that those of you who have gone before would like
> to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
I WILL TAKE THE DOOR GUIDE AND PIN SET IF STILL AVAILABLE.
DOUG PRESTON
BIRMINGHAM, AL
DOUGPFLYRV@AOL.COM
205-823-2955
-----Original Message-----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
Sent: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 9:13 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Extra parts for sale
For the list, I have some extra parts available.
?
1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415).? Dummy me?ordered 2 sets.? $38
plus $5?shipping.
?
2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set.? Can't retrofit to mine at this point.?
$86 plus $5?shipping.
?
Both Rivet head parts same price as Dave offers on the website.
?
3. 44 each new DensoW24EMR-C spark plugs for Lightspeed ignition.? I pulled my
lightspeed off and replaced with conventional magneto.? $100 including shipping.
?
4. Lightspeed Plasma II+ ignition module with 3 coils for 6 cyl.? Maybe 45 hours
on it.? The module went back to Klaus for checkout, and it checked out fine.?
Turns out it was the timing pickup off the prop.? Long story here, but Klaus
made me mad, so I pulled the whole lightspeed system and put a reliable mag there.?
$225 including?shipping.
?
I don't usually sell things, so don't have a way to take credit or paypal.? Old
fashioned check has to do it.
?
Grumpy
N184JM
?
John Miller
109 Troon Way
Tullahoma, TN 37388
?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
?
?
?
?
See what's new
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
I'll take the wd415's if you have them still.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 9:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Extra parts for sale
For the list, I have some extra parts available.
1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415). Dummy me ordered 2
sets. $38 plus $5 shipping.
2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set. Can't retrofit to mine at
this point. $86 plus $5 shipping.
Both Rivet head parts same price as Dave offers on the website.
3. 44 each new DensoW24EMR-C spark plugs for Lightspeed ignition. I
pulled my lightspeed off and replaced with conventional magneto. $100
including shipping.
4. Lightspeed Plasma II+ ignition module with 3 coils for 6 cyl.
Maybe 45 hours on it. The module went back to Klaus for checkout, and
it checked out fine. Turns out it was the timing pickup off the prop.
Long story here, but Klaus made me mad, so I pulled the whole lightspeed
system and put a reliable mag there. $225 including shipping.
I don't usually sell things, so don't have a way to take credit or
paypal. Old fashioned check has to do it.
Grumpy
N184JM
John Miller
109 Troon Way
Tullahoma, TN 37388
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's new
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
I have dual Garmin 430 radio's and their GMA 347 Audio Panel.
The panel has a split com feature that enables the Pilot to TX/RX on Com
1 while the Co-Pilot can TX/RX on Com 2. I found on our trip to New
Mexico that when the Co-Pilot transmitted on 122.75 for air to air on
Com 2, that I would hear a fairly loud squeal on the Receive on Com 1
when I was listening to Center. Every time you TX in Com 2, Com 1
breaks Squelch and you get a squeal.
I have two bent whip (RAMI AV-17) antenna's on the belly under
the passenger seat which are 3' 4" apart. The Garmin 430's have a
Tramsmit Interlock pin that can be wired to the MIC KEY of the opposite
radio, but if you do this the receiver sensitivity is reduced. Also
when you use the Split Com feature of the Audio Panel, you would not
want the receiver sensitivity to be reduced.
My question is to those that have dual radio's and have used the
split com feature so both the pilot and co-pilot can transmit at the
same time. Are you having similar problems, if not where are your Com
Antenna's mounted? I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
issue.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
As the rest of you, I've been mulling this over, as well. I saw an earlier post
concerning the spring system on the firewall in front of the passenger pedals
before, and it seems like the most practical. It's mechanical and is not attached
to the actual rudder cables. It's close to the pilot so an emergency trim
disconnect cable would be easy to install. It could also take the slop out of
the pedals and prevent the rudder from slamming the stops in windy ramp conditions.
Just to start some more dialogue, you can change yaw without the rudder. I'm not
pushing this but a small vane in the airstream can do the same thing. As an
example, you could put a vane on the belly with a simple twist knob. It would
need to be aft of CG to avoid reverse action and the further back the smaller
it could be. Drag would not be a big issue since the device would be reducing
the drag effect of unbalanced flight. Fire away.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse coming
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140073#140073
Message 8
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| Subject: | Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer |
'08
Add my name to the Alaska trip. Dates would be sometime in July or August. Seems
like 10-14 days would be about right.
Talked to an experienced Alaska pilot about the runway conditions verses my low
to the ground wheel pants. He said most dirt runways are covered with pea gravel
and after looking at the wheel pants, suggested that I stick to paved runways.
Good news is there are a lot of paved runways. Also, its legal to land
on the highways.
Count me in for 2 souls.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou@yahoo.com
N939SB, flying
"RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
I would be a 2-3 for a 2 week trip but unfortunately the earliest I could possibly
make it would be a Sept 09. Seriously doubt I'll be ready next year yet.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 1:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08
Dean, That's got some potential:
Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates, duration,
route, etc.)
For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary to make
the trip
2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and response we
can modify.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's
> Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a
> few to bite on that journey!
>
> Dean 805HL
>
> 110.4 hours
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
I have not specifically checked for those symptoms, but in several planes
with bent whips on the belly, also under 4' apart, I have never seen this or
heard of it, so I would look into some other options before moving the
antenna. The other option would be to run a wire to a remote antenna (with
an adequate ground plane) outside the plane and test it on the ground to see
if it makes a difference. Or, you could try putting a metal plate (sheet of
aluminum) between the antennas on the ground and see if that makes any
difference at all.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature.
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I have dual Garmin 430 radio's and their GMA 347 Audio Panel.
The panel has a split com feature that enables the Pilot to TX/RX on Com
1 while the Co-Pilot can TX/RX on Com 2. I found on our trip to New
Mexico that when the Co-Pilot transmitted on 122.75 for air to air on
Com 2, that I would hear a fairly loud squeal on the Receive on Com 1
when I was listening to Center. Every time you TX in Com 2, Com 1
breaks Squelch and you get a squeal.
I have two bent whip (RAMI AV-17) antenna's on the belly under
the passenger seat which are 3' 4" apart. The Garmin 430's have a
Tramsmit Interlock pin that can be wired to the MIC KEY of the opposite
radio, but if you do this the receiver sensitivity is reduced. Also
when you use the Split Com feature of the Audio Panel, you would not
want the receiver sensitivity to be reduced.
My question is to those that have dual radio's and have used the
split com feature so both the pilot and co-pilot can transmit at the
same time. Are you having similar problems, if not where are your Com
Antenna's mounted? I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
issue.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Pitot Tube Placement |
Just bought a Piper heated pitot tube and 3 inch extension from a friend
($300). Two questions:
1. Do I need some kind of control to manage pitot heat output in
additon to
an on and off switch?
2. Is placement of the pitot tube critical? I'm thinking of puting it
next
to the stall warning access plate which puts in aft a couple of inches
from
Van's pitot tube placement.
Chuck Weyant
Santa Maria, CA
805 878-1922
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
>
>
snip
> I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
>the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
>drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
>issue.
>
Take a long piece of coax and run it to an antenna placed where you
think it may work. Support the antenna in it's normal position and tape
it down. Give it a test. You don't have to fly it to test it!!!
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>Thank You
>Ray Doerr
>N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
Ray,
Please see the attached comments from the GNS 430W installation manual re
mandatory use of the TX interlock and placement of com antennas.
Cheers,
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Tuesday, 16 October 2007 12:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature.
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I have dual Garmin 430 radio's and their GMA 347 Audio Panel.
The panel has a split com feature that enables the Pilot to TX/RX on Com
1 while the Co-Pilot can TX/RX on Com 2. I found on our trip to New
Mexico that when the Co-Pilot transmitted on 122.75 for air to air on
Com 2, that I would hear a fairly loud squeal on the Receive on Com 1
when I was listening to Center. Every time you TX in Com 2, Com 1
breaks Squelch and you get a squeal.
I have two bent whip (RAMI AV-17) antenna's on the belly under
the passenger seat which are 3' 4" apart. The Garmin 430's have a
Tramsmit Interlock pin that can be wired to the MIC KEY of the opposite
radio, but if you do this the receiver sensitivity is reduced. Also
when you use the Split Com feature of the Audio Panel, you would not
want the receiver sensitivity to be reduced.
My question is to those that have dual radio's and have used the
split com feature so both the pilot and co-pilot can transmit at the
same time. Are you having similar problems, if not where are your Com
Antenna's mounted? I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
issue.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
9:22 AM
9:22 AM
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages |
I was initially surprised at the latency in the RPM while doing my
transition training with Mike S. as well. However, I have the same AFS AF-2500
engine
monitor in my RV-10 and I have no problem accurately setting RPM and MAP with
it (I really like the system as a whole). I suppose it would be nice to get
a more instantaneous reading, but like anything, you quickly learn to
compensate and it becomes a non-issue. For me, the benefits of my AF-2500 (displays
everything in one place, light weight, takes up very little panel space,
audio warnings etc.) far out weighs a few millisecond delay in displayed RPM.
Just to add some insight: I would guess that the delay comes from filtering
or taking a running average of the signals coming from the tachometer
transducer. There is always lag created in this process, regardless of the size
of
the computer crunching the numbers. There is a trade off between displaying a
smooth signal and the amount time delay. You can shorten the delay, but the
result is a more erratic display. The amount of noise in the signal coming
from the transducer also plays a part. Maybe the guys at AFS can let us know
why they chose the particular set up they currently have?
-Jim
40134
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
In a message dated 10/13/2007 4:06:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis@cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
While doing transition training, the plane we flew was equipped with a
digital EMS. There was a pretty significant delay between the actual
throttle and prop changes made with the controls and the recording and
display of the results on the digital/graphic MP and RPM gages. By
'significant' I mean enough so that If you were attempting to use the
gages in real time to go from full throttle /RPM to cruise settings I
would consistently 'overshoot' the desired setting because of the 'lag'
in these instruments. For small adjustments the 'lag' was not as big an
issue. After 8.1 hours, I got a little better as estimating the
settings and then waiting for the gages to 'catch-up' but I still found
it annoying and distracting.
Mike S. said that ALL EFIS, EMS systems he has flown have the same issue
and it's one of the reasons he prefers steam gages. I'm not flying yet
so I don't know what I'll get with my OP's but I hadn't anticipated the
delay/lag that it looks like I'll probably have.
So for those of you flying, with the Cheltons , GRT's, AFS.
Inquiring minds want to know.
(http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
A lot of great information. I am not real educated on the whole spring bias systems
even though I have seen drawings. I have not thought about the balance issues
with a system in the rudder itself either, but one thing I'm gathering is
that it is something many people are wanting to see a solution to. Thanks again
for the good dialog.
As far as my builder number and my status as new builder. My original number was
40733, but I then purchased Ed Wischmeyer's kit, thus taking on his number per
Van's.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140172#140172
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
Doug,
You got beaten to the punch. If the buyer falls through, I'll let you know.
My bird is now in pieces in the paint shop......hoping we start primer this
week. Been 6 weeks since it's flown...you'll love it.
grumpy
In a message dated 10/14/2007 10:37:49 P.M. Central Standard Time,
dljinia@yahoo.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "n277dl" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
John,
I'll take both the WD-415 and the door guide & pin set if they are still
available.
>
> 1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415). Dummy me ordered 2 sets.
$38 plus $5 shipping.
>
> 2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set. Can't retrofit to mine at this
point. $86 plus $5 shipping.
See you're in Tullahoma, TN. I grew up in Killen, AL, moved to Iowa ~10
years ago but it's amazing how hearing the names of the small towns in North
Alabama and Southern TN bring back the memories.
Anyway, let me know if these are still available and I'll mail you a check.
Doug
Finishing up the elevator trim.
QB Fuse and QB wings here in about a month.
Hope I can finish out the rest of the tailcone in 2-3 weeks
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140009#140009
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
Michael,
They're gone (I think).
grumpy
In a message dated 10/15/2007 3:35:20 A.M. Central Standard Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
If the door pins are still available I'd love to take them. Does anyone on
the list offer the pin set?
Mine might get delivered in the next 100 month or so. [Wink]
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140026#140026
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
Doug,
They're gone (I think).
grumpy
In a message dated 10/15/2007 8:17:54 A.M. Central Standard Time,
dougpflyrv@AOL.COM writes:
I WILL TAKE THE DOOR GUIDE AND PIN SET IF STILL AVAILABLE.
DOUG PRESTON
BIRMINGHAM, AL
DOUGPFLYRV@AOL.COM
205-823-2955
-----Original Message-----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
Sent: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 9:13 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Extra parts for sale
For the list, I have some extra parts available.
1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415). Dummy me ordered 2 sets.
$38 plus $5 shipping.
2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set. Can't retrofit to mine at this
point. $86 plus $5 shipping.
Both Rivet head parts same price as Dave offers on the website.
3. 44 each new DensoW24EMR-C spark plugs for Lightspeed ignition. I pulled
my lightspeed off and replaced with conventional magneto. $100 including
shipping.
4. Lightspeed Plasma II+ ignition module with 3 coils for 6 cyl. Maybe 45
hours on it. The module went back to Klaus for checkout, and it checked out
fine. Turns out it was the timing pickup off the prop. Long story here, but
Klaus made me mad, so I pulled the whole lightspeed system and put a reliable
mag there. $225 including shipping.
I don't usually sell things, so don't have a way to take credit or paypal.
Old fashioned check has to do it.
Grumpy
N184JM
John Miller
109 Troon Way
Tullahoma, TN 37388
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages |
The latest software on the AF-2500 does speed up the response time.
The new AF-3400 and AF-3500 are much faster.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer |
'08
Unfortunately, the last I checked Northway is still gravel, result of an
earthquake that destroyed the pavement. Unless you have the range to go
from Whitehorse to Fairbanks(you may very well), Northway is the normal
and most low key place to clear customs.
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> Add my name to the Alaska trip. Dates would be sometime in July or
> August. Seems like 10-14 days would be about right.
>
> Talked to an experienced Alaska pilot about the runway conditions
> verses my low to the ground wheel pants. He said most dirt runways are
> covered with pea gravel and after looking at the wheel pants,
> suggested that I stick to paved runways. Good news is there are a lot
> of paved runways. Also, its legal to land on the highways.
>
> Count me in for 2 souls.
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> billderou@yahoo.com <mailto:billderou@yahoo.com>
> N939SB, flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
> */"RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>/* wrote:
>
>
> I would be a 2-3 for a 2 week trip but unfortunately the earliest
> I could possibly make it would be a Sept 09. Seriously doubt I'll
> be ready next year yet.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip
> summer '08
>
>
> Dean, That's got some potential:
>
> Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
>
> A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
> B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates,
> duration,
> route, etc.)
>
>
> For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
>
>
> 1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
> idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary
> to make
> the trip
>
> 2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
>
> 3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
>
> This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and
> response we
> can modify.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> >
> > Deems,
> >
> > How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> > Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's
> > Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a
> > few to bite on that journey!
> >
> > Dean 805HL
> >
> > 110.4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
> >
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Grumpy's extra parts |
Sorry for the extra posts on replies tonight.
The door hardware and cable attachment brackets have been spoken for.
If those don't pan out, I'll let the list know.
Guess I was luckier with Rivethead than some of you guys.
grumpy
DO NOT ARCHIVE
In a message dated 10/15/2007 8:25:53 P.M. Central Standard Time,
GenGrumpy@aol.com writes:
Doug,
They're gone (I think).
grumpy
In a message dated 10/15/2007 8:17:54 A.M. Central Standard Time,
dougpflyrv@AOL.COM writes:
I WILL TAKE THE DOOR GUIDE AND PIN SET IF STILL AVAILABLE.
DOUG PRESTON
BIRMINGHAM, AL
DOUGPFLYRV@AOL.COM
205-823-2955
-----Original Message-----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
Sent: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 9:13 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Extra parts for sale
For the list, I have some extra parts available.
1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415). Dummy me ordered 2 sets.
$38 plus $5 shipping.
2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set. Can't retrofit to mine at this
point. $86 plus $5 shipping.
Both Rivet head parts same price as Dave offers on the website.
3. 44 each new DensoW24EMR-C spark plugs for Lightspeed ignition. I pulled
my lightspeed off and replaced with conventional magneto. $100 including ship
ping.
4. Lightspeed Plasma II+ ignition module with 3 coils for 6 cyl. Maybe 45
hours on it. The module went back to Klaus for checkout, and it checked out
fine. Turns out it was the timing pickup off the prop. Long story here, but
Klaus made me mad, so I pulled the whole lightspeed system and put a reliable
mag there. $225 including shipping.
I don't usually sell things, so don't have a way to take credit or paypal.
Old fashioned check has to do it.
Grumpy
N184JM
John Miller
109 Troon Way
Tullahoma, TN 37388
DO NOT ARCHIVE
____________________________________
See what's new
____________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free _AOL Mail_
(http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=AOLAOF000
20000000970) !
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
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I echo Tim's comments.
I put in Abby's interior back in June and am totally satisfied with it. I
did my own cutting so that I can remove the tunnel carpet easily as mentioned
below.
Abby has been a supreme pleasure to work with, and she will do most any mod
you want.
She even took a couple of my suggestions so you guys should be seeing them
in her standard kits.
She even made a very nice leather cover for the center support bracket with
velcro so that it can be removed if necessary, and her dash mat fits very
nicely, especially after I glued some 1/8 inch foam underneath it.
grumpy
N184JM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
In a message dated 10/15/2007 7:51:29 A.M. Central Standard Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Russell Daves wrote:
> The Flightline Interior side panels go on with a combination of screws
> and velcro.
>
> I installed the Flightline Interior on my RV-10, but after the install I
> suggested to Abby that certain modifications be made to her design.
> Abby is great to work with, and when you order if you specifically
> request certain things she will do it the way you desire. I really like
> the interior she provided.
>
> If Abby has not yet incorporated some of my suggestions into her pattern
> for the RV-10 interior, I would suggest that you request that Abby:
>
> 1. NOT sew the carpet portion of the side panels that cover the
> outside rear passenger footwell (goes on with velcro) to the fiberboard
> side panel (which goes on with screws) and covers the side panel from in
> front of the pilot's seat to the rear of the door.
>
My entire side carpet and trim piece below the door is secured with
velcro strips for no-screw removal. Abby can get you long rolls
of velcro in a cost effective way if you want to use it to secure
some of the panels.
> 2. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet at the point the rudder
> cables exit the tunnel, down to the floor, so that the tunnel cover
> carpet can be removed without disengaging the rudder cables.
>
I don't believe she cuts the holes for the rudder cables, so
this would be something that the builder could do, to cut a
slit to make this work.
> 3. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet from the bottom of the
> pilot's seat belt attachment mount on the tunnel side wall, to the floor
> of the rear passenger footwell, so that the tunnel cover carpet can be
> removed without removing the seat belt attachment bolts.
>
This one wouldn't be a bad mod at all. Ideally you could have
the rear carpet be a little longer, and the front carpet
have a nicely trimmed seam that overlaps the rear by a couple
inches. I'll mention this to her too. Sure is nice though
that there's so little to complain about with her stuff. ;)
As for the areas to paint, there isn't much. You probably
want to paint your door posts, and basically a couple
inches or so around all of the openings, in case an edge gets
exposed, and at the gusset area by the aft corners of the
windshield. You may want to paint your glareshield, even if
you plan to cover it later. You may want to paint the
forward ribs and walls from about the air vents forward.
You'll want to paint the seat pedestals and especially the
face where the stick comes out, and all the brackets
associated with the seats and seat belts. On the rear
seats, you may want to paint the hinge areas.
Beyond that, I don't personally know how bad the corrosion
would be if you got wet carpeting and had it covering
plain alclad. Personally, I Akzo epoxy primed all of the
lower interior to seal it, but YMMV. On the cabin top I
also sanded lightly and sprayed some areas with a
paint/primer/sealer mix...not much, but just to give a good
gluing surface that was less porous for around the edges.
Tim
> Russ Daves
> N710RV - 175+ hours
>
>
>
>
> **
> *Time: *
> */10:20:57 PM PST US/*
>
> *From: * */Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com
> <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>>/*
>
> *Subject: * /*_Interior_*/
>
>
>
> I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join the
> forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations for the
> best installation of the interior... which will most likely be one
> from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
> attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put directly on to
> alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down first?
>
> To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering putting
> something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for spills
> (I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel without
> coffee).
>
> Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the interior
> kit that I will need to paint?
>
> Is there anything that those of you who have gone before would like
> to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
Message 22
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I just received my full interior from Flightlines and would like to make
a point also that she is fantastic on time and great product. I highly
recomend her.
Now dont mention the war but nothing from rivethead yet ...3.2 months
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Interior
I echo Tim's comments.
I put in Abby's interior back in June and am totally satisfied with
it. I did my own cutting so that I can remove the tunnel carpet easily
as mentioned below.
Abby has been a supreme pleasure to work with, and she will do most
any mod you want.
She even took a couple of my suggestions so you guys should be seeing
them in her standard kits.
She even made a very nice leather cover for the center support bracket
with velcro so that it can be removed if necessary, and her dash mat
fits very nicely, especially after I glued some 1/8 inch foam underneath
it.
grumpy
N184JM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
In a message dated 10/15/2007 7:51:29 A.M. Central Standard Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
Russell Daves wrote:
> The Flightline Interior side panels go on with a combination of
screws
> and velcro.
>
> I installed the Flightline Interior on my RV-10, but after the
install I
> suggested to Abby that certain modifications be made to her
design.
> Abby is great to work with, and when you order if you specifically
> request certain things she will do it the way you desire. I
really like
> the interior she provided.
>
> If Abby has not yet incorporated some of my suggestions into her
pattern
> for the RV-10 interior, I would suggest that you request that
Abby:
>
> 1. NOT sew the carpet portion of the side panels that cover the
> outside rear passenger footwell (goes on with velcro) to the
fiberboard
> side panel (which goes on with screws) and covers the side panel
from in
> front of the pilot's seat to the rear of the door.
>
My entire side carpet and trim piece below the door is secured with
velcro strips for no-screw removal. Abby can get you long rolls
of velcro in a cost effective way if you want to use it to secure
some of the panels.
> 2. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet at the point the
rudder
> cables exit the tunnel, down to the floor, so that the tunnel
cover
> carpet can be removed without disengaging the rudder cables.
>
I don't believe she cuts the holes for the rudder cables, so
this would be something that the builder could do, to cut a
slit to make this work.
> 3. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet from the bottom
of the
> pilot's seat belt attachment mount on the tunnel side wall, to the
floor
> of the rear passenger footwell, so that the tunnel cover carpet
can be
> removed without removing the seat belt attachment bolts.
>
This one wouldn't be a bad mod at all. Ideally you could have
the rear carpet be a little longer, and the front carpet
have a nicely trimmed seam that overlaps the rear by a couple
inches. I'll mention this to her too. Sure is nice though
that there's so little to complain about with her stuff. ;)
As for the areas to paint, there isn't much. You probably
want to paint your door posts, and basically a couple
inches or so around all of the openings, in case an edge gets
exposed, and at the gusset area by the aft corners of the
windshield. You may want to paint your glareshield, even if
you plan to cover it later. You may want to paint the
forward ribs and walls from about the air vents forward.
You'll want to paint the seat pedestals and especially the
face where the stick comes out, and all the brackets
associated with the seats and seat belts. On the rear
seats, you may want to paint the hinge areas.
Beyond that, I don't personally know how bad the corrosion
would be if you got wet carpeting and had it covering
plain alclad. Personally, I Akzo epoxy primed all of the
lower interior to seal it, but YMMV. On the cabin top I
also sanded lightly and sprayed some areas with a
paint/primer/sealer mix...not much, but just to give a good
gluing surface that was less porous for around the edges.
Tim
> Russ Daves
> N710RV - 175+ hours
>
>
>
>
> **
> *Time: *
> */10:20:57 PM PST US/*
>
> *From: * */Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com
> <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>>/*
>
> *Subject: * /*_Interior_*/
>
>
>
> I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join
the
> forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations
for the
> best installation of the interior... which will most likely
be one
> from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
> attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put
directly on to
> alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down
first?
>
> To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering
putting
> something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for
spills
> (I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel
without
> coffee).
>
> Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the
interior
> kit that I will need to paint?
>
> Is there anything that those of you who have gone before
would like
> to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> es Day --> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
bsp; -->
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