Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:59 AM - Re: Fuel Valve Problem (Sam Marlow)
2. 03:05 AM - Re: Fuel Valve Problem (Sam Marlow)
3. 03:40 AM - Re: Re: Static ports (darnpilot@aol.com)
4. 04:18 AM - Re: Door pins installation pictures needed (Wayne Edgerton)
5. 04:31 AM - airport info (Wayne Edgerton)
6. 06:01 AM - Re: Door pins installation pictures needed (Michael Wellenzohn)
7. 06:16 AM - Re: Re: Door pins installation pictures needed (Deems Davis)
8. 06:57 AM - Re: airport info (Tim Olson)
9. 07:01 AM - Exhaust (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
10. 07:10 AM - Re: airport info (Rob Kermanj)
11. 07:41 AM - Re: Exhaust (Mark Ritter)
12. 07:51 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (Jay Brinkmeyer)
13. 08:41 AM - Re: Static ports (jayb)
14. 08:53 AM - Re: Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! (Chris Johnston)
15. 08:59 AM - Re: Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! (Dave Saylor)
16. 09:08 AM - Re: Stall warning location (John Lenhardt)
17. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (MauleDriver)
18. 09:26 AM - static ports (David McNeill)
19. 11:13 AM - Re: plexiglass bond to fiberglass (n223rv@wolflakeairport.net)
20. 11:24 AM - section 33-10 help (Bob Newman)
21. 11:24 AM - Re: Door pins installation pictures needed (Michael Wellenzohn)
22. 11:26 AM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (William Curtis)
23. 11:42 AM - Re: section 33-10 help (Tim Olson)
24. 12:01 PM - Re: section 33-10 help (Bob Newman)
25. 01:23 PM - Re: Stall warning location (linn Walters)
26. 02:10 PM - Re: section 33-10 help (DLIUDVINAITIS@aol.com)
27. 02:37 PM - Re: section 33-10 help (Bob Newman)
28. 04:16 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (MauleDriver)
29. 05:07 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (William Curtis)
30. 06:18 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (Tim Olson)
31. 08:33 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? (Steven DiNieri)
32. 10:10 PM - First Flight (Albert Gardner)
33. 10:19 PM - Re: First Flight (John Dunne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
I expected a lot more from Van's.
bob.kaufmann wrote:
>
> Not that far along but did you expect anything less from Vans. Its
> not a Lycoming so no help from the factory, and wish that I was that
> far along. Bob K
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 25, 2007 5:02 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
> Thanks again, this list has been very gracious.
> Sam
>
> William Curtis wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
>
> Not a problem, that question was posed with tongue planted firmly in cheek:-)
> Do not archive.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>
> RV-10, of course. I'm well aware of the way the system works, I built
>
> it, but I'm trying to get the word out, there's a fuel transfer problem
>
> that's going to get someone hurt if it's not fixed. I've ordered a new
>
> valve from the factory, not Van's, but until it's installed, MY RV10 IS
>
> GROUNDED! There's no way enough fuel can be in the lines, on a stock
>
> built RV10 airframe to run the engine for 10 minuets.
>
> I contacted the factory, talked to Guss, but he just insults me with
>
> redundant silly questions. I'm just the stupid pilot, builder, what do I
>
> know about airplanes.
>
> Sorry to dump on you William, I'm just frustrated with support from
>
> Van's. I feel it's my responsibly to alert the RV10 builders of this
>
> potential lethal problem, even if Van's won't!
>
> Sam
>
>
>
> William Curtis wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Are we talking about a high wing Cessna or an RV-10? With the standard
fuel plumbing there should be no transfer of fuel from one tank to the other.
Also, consider the length of tubing from the fuel selector to the engine; this
should allow only a few seconds of fuel for the engine to run.
>
>
>
> William
>
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
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>
>
> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com> <mailto:wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
>
> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off position.
>
> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped
off,
>
> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious
fuel
>
> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think,
at
>
> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sam Marlow
>
> #40157
>
> Van's standard kit.
>
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> * *
> * *
> http://www.matronic - NEW MATRONICS also available via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>==================
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Well, yes, anything to verify where the fuel is coming from, but I
already know the fuel valve is bypassing internally. That's the only
place fuel can travel from one side to the other. The question is why.
Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Sam would you think this might help to verify the source of the
> problem if you did it.
>
> regards Chris
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Marlow" <sam@fr8dog.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 11:16 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
>
>>
>> Not exactly to that extent, but I did use compressed air to verify
>> integrity of the valve.
>>
>> Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>>> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>>>
>>> Sam just wondering did all the basic tests , did you test your fuel
>>> selecter for correct fuel flows etc. I mean fill one tank then time
>>> the fuel flow switch to the other nothing shoud come out? Off
>>> position , nothing comes out.Empty the tank repeat other side?
>>> Time the fuel flows. Just wondering if its just your valve only. I
>>> didnt want to go a spend more money if not needed. I am not at the
>>> point were I can test the valve.
>>> I am probably missing something as usual so feel free to point me in
>>> the right direction
>>>
>>> regards Chris
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Marlow" <sam@fr8dog.net>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:04 AM
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
>>>> The aircraft is grounded untill I get this sorted out. I have
>>>> talked to Gus at Van's, and he said this is the first he's heard of
>>>> a problem with the valve. But that's what I here every time I
>>>> contact them about any problem!
>>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
>>>>> at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
>>>>> will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
>>>>> the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
>>>>> last flight ended.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be
>>>>>> started taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in
>>>>>> the off position.
>>>>>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped
>>>>>> off, fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump
>>>>>> precious fuel overboard through the vent line, but only on the
>>>>>> ground, I think, at least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Sam Marlow
>>>>>> #40157
>>>>>> Van's standard kit.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
Very nice panel.? One question: your switches and cb's seem kind of random...how
did you determine what you wanted where?? I would have thought the switches
would be grouped together and the cb's all together too?
That said, I really like it.? Thanks for the photo.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:42 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
If you want alternate static air and have an EFIS, use a curtiss valve on
the panel into an AN female pipe thread T fitting. This will allow nylon
pipe thread to standard nylon lines into the static system. See attached
picture. See the valve to the left of the Chelton PFD.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Who says you have to build to part 23 requirements? CAR3 didn't require
either one, and neither does Part 91. From what I see, as long as you meet
Part 91 requirements you are good to go. I flew a CAR3 plane IFR for years
without alt static and with plain old copper tube pitot . My Mooney has
heated pitot, but no alternate static, and is IFR certified.
As long as the static source is as called for on the RV-10 with a port on
each side and connecting tube arching up to top of fuselage, it will take an
awful lot to block both ports.
GRANSCOTT@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/25/2007 9:52:30 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
>
> You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
> source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
> people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
>
> Tim,
>
> Hard to break the face plate on the VSI as an alternate static air if
> you have all glass!
>
> Patrick
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> See what's ne
> *
>
>
> *
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
Hi Michael,
I don't have any pictures of the door pin set but I have them installed.
I had already installed the Van's supplied hardware and was using them
until I received Riverhead's. The conversion was fairly easy. On the
door jam guides I had to obviously remove the plastic ones and the
elongate the holes I had made for the bolts so I could move the guides
up and down for proper alignment. They were a little to thick for my set
up so I had to take a little off of the back to get then to fit
properly. Someone had said to mill it off but since I don't have that
equipment I used the sander, which worked fine, but a little hot on the
fingers :>}
On the door pins that go onto the tips of the door latch rods I had two
problems. First I cut of the V shaped end of the tip of the rods. Then I
ran into a little problem. When I had installed the Van's supplied
guides I epoxied into the door rod the magnets used to determine if the
door is closed. One, there was epoxy in the thread so I couldn't screw
in the bullet type tip guides because of the epoxy. That's not a big
problem that a tap couldn't solve but the actual magnets was a little
problem. They weren't in deep enough so I couldn't screw the new tip in
because they would bottom out on the magnet.
I had to remove the rods from the doors, which wasn't as bad as I
thought it was going to be at first, and got a long narrow steel rod and
knocked out the old magnet and then tapped out the hole. After that it
went together easily.
It was a little work but not to terribly bad. I really like this new
setup. One it looks a lot more finished, at least for me, and two the
door seems to latch much easier after I adjusted the openings. Before I
had to kind of force the door shut, probably poor alignment by me
initially, but now they close very smoothly, IMHO.
Hope this helps. If you want an actual picture I can take one for you.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT flying
Hello,
since I didn't give up on the Rivethead door-pin set I want to
proceed with my
door installation. could some one post pictures of the installed
door pins and
what changes are required to the original setup.
I am currently installing Steve DiNieris door handles and want to
make sure that
I don't do something irreversible for the Rivethead door-pin set
up.
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Message 5
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I am planning on flying to Albuquerque and Santa Fe fairly soon and was
wondering if any of you living in the area or are familiar with the area
have any suggestions on which FBO would be the best to use. I also would
like to get hungered while there, if possible.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT flying
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
Hello Wayne,
a close up picture if the part which is on the door frame and the pin would be
great. Thanks for your explanations that help already ahead.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141925#141925
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
Mike, Try these
Parts: http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/slides/DSC04757.html
Installed :
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC04754.html
(click forward 5 pix)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hello Wayne,
>
> a close up picture if the part which is on the door frame and the pin would be
great.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: airport info |
Wayne,
I don't know about the Santa Fe area at all , but when I went through
Albuquerque I stopped at KAEG. The people were very nice, and they
had ample parking and services. I got a car (can't remember if it
was rental or courtesy) and used it overnight. I believe I rented
it. Looks like fuel is $4.59 there now, so not the cheapest place
in the country. E98 is a little south at $4.38, but I have no
idea of their distance from town or services.
Oh, and as far as hangaring goes, I don't remember how I ended up
that way, but I do remember when I parked at Double Eagle II (KAEG)
I had to get my plane out of a hangar the next day. I'm sure I
must have paid for it, but I'm guessing if you call them they can
arrange it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I am planning on flying to Albuquerque and Santa Fe fairly soon and was
> wondering if any of you living in the area or are familiar with the area
> have any suggestions on which FBO would be the best to use. I also would
> like to get hungered while there, if possible.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
>
> N602WT flying
>
> *
Message 9
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"Just heard from Larry Vetterman and he believes the pipes should extend
abo
ut 5". He also told if there was no exhaust stains directly behind the
pip
es they were the right length and adding length would only increase
drag.
Mark"
You mean extend about 5" past exiting the cowl?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: airport info |
There is only one FBO in ABQ and they are very nice. Hangar is $25/
night and they are very accommodating. They will drive you in town,
give you a loaner car (few hours) and the fuel price is not bad.
They left a good impression on me.
Everything is priced higher in SEF. I would rate the services in SEF
lower than ABQ.
On Oct 26, 2007, at 7:31 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I am planning on flying to Albuquerque and Santa Fe fairly soon and
> was wondering if any of you living in the area or are familiar with
> the area have any suggestions on which FBO would be the best to
> use. I also would like to get hungered while there, if possible.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
>
> N602WT flying
>
>
Message 11
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Yes - 5" past the cowl.<html><div></div>
Subject: RV10-List: ExhaustDate: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 10:00:32 -0400From: tdaws
on-townsend@aurora.aeroTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=93Just heard from Larry Vetterman and he believes the pipes should extend
abo
ut 5". He also told if there was no exhaust stains directly behind the pip
es they were the right length and adding length would only increase drag.
Mark=94
You mean extend about 5=94 past exiting the cowl?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit! =0A=0AThere a
re several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here: =0Ahttp://www.
brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm=0A=0ARegards,=0AJay=0A=0A=0A=0A_______
m
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
Can we see photos of this bad boy installed? The hose side, not from the cabin.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MTV-3P#
Thanks,
Jay
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141946#141946
Message 14
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| Subject: | Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! |
hey all -
so after I posted I searched further, and I found possibly a better part
# for this air valve toggle, if any are interested. The earlier part #
was a 3 way valve toggle, which just means that you have to block off
one of the exit ports. There's a 2 way one which just has an inlet and
an outlet, and the switch body is even smaller. I think the part # is
TV-2SP and it looks like this:
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2S
except it's got a 1/8 NPT inlet on the back. There's no picture of this
specific one in the catalog, but I've ordered one, so we'll see if it's
neato. I'll report back after I receive it, and let y'all know if it's
super-mega-fantastico or no. the only bummer here is that while the
switch is around $9, they charge $7 for shipping, and $10 for HANDLING!
Must come in a velvet lined box :) whatever... I'm just the sort of
fool who'll pay for the convenience of not having to run around the city
to hunt this little bugger down. too busy covering myself in fiberglass
dust.
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks!
Thanks to all who replied with excellent suggestions for an
alternate static panel mount valve.
Several suggestions looked good to me.
However, I've been looking for one that will toggle between normal
and alternate, and my panel is made to accommodate that. I'll look
first at the Clippard MTV-3P as suggested by Chris Johnson.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! |
I used a similar toggle. McMaster P/N 6791T13. Cost was $12. It had a
pretty large plastic handle that I shortened a little.
It's been static tested to 20K' and didn't leak at all.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks!
Thanks to all who replied with excellent suggestions for an alternate
static panel mount valve.
Several suggestions looked good to me.
However, I've been looking for one that will toggle between normal and
alternate, and my panel is made to accommodate that. I'll look first at the
Clippard MTV-3P as suggested by Chris Johnson.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning location |
The reason I was told it's on the left side is because the usual traffic
pattern is to the left. The left wing goes slower in a left turn than a
right so the airspeed on that wing in that critical phase of flight
would be the lowest. This would warn of the stall on that wing which
would occur before the right wing resulting in the stall/spin.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: plevenda@jvlv.lv
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stall warning location
<paulevenda@mac.com>
Well, count one for "candle moth syndrome". I pulled out my first
quickbuild wing yesterday, which was the right wing. I set it on the
table, removed the bottom skin and went to work. In the process, as I
got around to the leading edge, I noticed the two pre-drilled holes for
the stall warning vane. So I flipped to the page in the manual and went
to work cutting out an access hole and the slot for the vane. Only AFTER
I had all that done did I remember I was working on the right wing. It
was also then that I noticed that Van's pre-driled holes for the stall
warning on BOTH wings. Oh and yes there is a caution note in the manual,
but like I said, "Candle Moth"
In all my years of flying I was never given a reason why the stall
warning is traditionaly on the left wing. So now do I accept an extra
access hole, patch up the slot on the right wing and start all over
again on the left wing, or is there any reason why the stall warning
would not still work on the right wing even though it is not in the
traditional location.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141602#141602
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending
a bit more research into configuration and availability.
I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be
the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)
I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to see
if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including the
extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry here,
I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides to do it.
Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
Durham NC - #40605
Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
> Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
>
> There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
> ___________________________
> *
>
>
> *
Message 18
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check the blue fitting
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: plexiglass bond to fiberglass |
Not to start a mess here..... I agree Weld On-10 holds the windows better
than epoxy. But after having using Weld On-10 and having many issues with
it (like it cracks the windows, even under light pressure clamping,
flashes over very fast, gets very stringy, and is very hard to clean up),
I am not going to use it on my RV-10. We had to re-install 2 windows (one
being the 1/4" windshield) on my friends RV-10 do to cracks emminating
from the adhesive joints.
I spoke with Jeff at AirPlastics (they make the RV-10 window for Van's).
He DOES NOT recommend using Weld On-10 as it is too aggressive of an
adhesive and he said he has heard of many issues from it. He recommended
other adhesives such as Sika Flex. When we replaced his windshield, we
used the Sika Flex. There is a black primer you put down, then the caulk
type adhesive. It worked great, was much easier to use, and the total
cost was about the same as the 5 bottles of Weld On 10. I used Sika Flex
292UV black along with Sika 209 primer.
I did not compare it side by side with Weld On-10 like eagerlee. That
would be a nice comparison. But I did play with it on our old windshield
and it is very strong.
Just my $0.02 cents worth, after using them both to install windows....
-Mike Kraus
2032 RV-4 Flying
40013 RV-10 FWF/Wiring
>
> I got some Weld On - 10 and replicated my previous experiment with
> structural epoxy as a bonding agent for the RV-10 windows. Again i scuffed
> a test block of plexi and fiberglass, wiped clean with alcohol, glued and
> clamped the pieces, let the glue cure for 24 hours. The difference was day
> and night. When I hit the epoxy test piece with a ball peen hammer to
> provide a sheer force, the bond between the Plexiglas and epoxy failed by
> a clean separation with a moderate blow of the hammer. I could not get
> the bond between the plexiglas and the Weld On to fail using severe blows
> from the same hammer: the plexiglas itself failed first. I'm going to use
> the weld on to fasten my windows and then fill the edge gaps with a
> structural epoxy and do an overlay of glass fiber mat to prevent the paint
> from cracking. One last comment: the Weld On was mixed by an eyeball
> estimate of 13 to 1 ratio and had a date stamped on the carton Jul '06.
> I assume that precision ratio and current mat!
> erial would yield a stronger bond.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141889#141889
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | section 33-10 help |
Ok guys, I've searched the manual and the parts lists and bag list and
I can't find the following part F-6114B and F6114C anywhere except on
the instruction page 33-10. These are a pair of wear blocks that are
to be modified as shown on page 33-10. Are we to fabricate these from
raw material and if so what thickness?
Thanks for your help,
Bob Newman
slowbuild N541RV inside the fuse :)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
Thanks Deems,
thats exactly what I needed!
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141988#141988
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Bill,
Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T that Van's offers for $205? 90 degree swing
between left and right and 90 degree AN6 ports. Seems almost a drop in replacement,
only you don't have to criss-cross the fuel lines. You don't even
have to lower it and use an extension.
See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves":
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193417645-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending
> a bit more research into configuration and availability.
>
> I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be
> the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
> It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
> Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
> extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)
>
> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to see
> if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including the
> extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
>
> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry here,
> I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides to do it.
>
> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
> Durham NC - #40605
>
> Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
> > Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
> >
> > There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
> > http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jay
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: section 33-10 help |
Bob, I think these were just a couple of flat pieces of plastic, maybe
1/8 to 3/16" thick. The builder has to drill and notch them as
the drawing shows. If you have time to wait, just let Van's know
that you didn't get them. They'd be in hardware bags. If you are
in a hurry, you'll have to hunt down some raw material. It's basically
like the stuff the door pins go through, and like the cable guides
that hold the rudder cables. Nothing too fancy. It's just wear
prevention from the seatbelt cables. If you were stuck and needed
to fly a.s.a.p. you could always just use any old plastic for temporary
use or even duct tape and then put the real things in a week later.
Since I'm sure you're not that far to be critical, just leave them
off for the time being and get them with your next Van's order
if you need some hardware. They should send them for free if
they shorted you.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> Ok guys, I've searched the manual and the parts lists and bag list and
> I can't find the following part F-6114B and F6114C anywhere except on
> the instruction page 33-10. These are a pair of wear blocks that are
> to be modified as shown on page 33-10. Are we to fabricate these from
> raw material and if so what thickness?
>
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Bob Newman
> slowbuild N541RV inside the fuse :)
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: section 33-10 help |
Tim, Thanks as alway. It sure would be swell if Van's put the kit
parts list and bag parts list up on their site, even if it was secure
for builders only. Those of us with older kit numbers get the added
bonus of playing detective to figure out parts that never made it to the
inventory list that is probably shipped these days...
I could see that they were some type of UHMW plastic and with their
drawings I'll just fab my own. The only thing missing was a thickness.
Best regards
-Bob Newman
#40176
>>> Tim@MyRV10.com 10/26/2007 2:41 PM >>>
Bob, I think these were just a couple of flat pieces of plastic, maybe
1/8 to 3/16" thick. The builder has to drill and notch them as
the drawing shows. If you have time to wait, just let Van's know
that you didn't get them. They'd be in hardware bags. If you are
in a hurry, you'll have to hunt down some raw material. It's basically
like the stuff the door pins go through, and like the cable guides
that hold the rudder cables. Nothing too fancy. It's just wear
prevention from the seatbelt cables. If you were stuck and needed
to fly a.s.a.p. you could always just use any old plastic for
temporary
use or even duct tape and then put the real things in a week later.
Since I'm sure you're not that far to be critical, just leave them
off for the time being and get them with your next Van's order
if you need some hardware. They should send them for free if
they shorted you.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> Ok guys, I've searched the manual and the parts lists and bag list
and
> I can't find the following part F-6114B and F6114C anywhere except
on
> the instruction page 33-10. These are a pair of wear blocks that
are
> to be modified as shown on page 33-10. Are we to fabricate these
from
> raw material and if so what thickness?
>
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Bob Newman
> slowbuild N541RV inside the fuse :)
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Stall warning location |
My Certified Grumman ...... has the stall warning switch on the right
wing ..... as seen from the pilot seat. However, you do have a valid
point. I'm not going to have a stall switch ..... or an AOA ....... I'm
just going to use all the info the airplane naturally gives you. If you
ignore all those natural hints .... you'll probably ignore the stall
warning horn too!
Linn
do not archive
John Lenhardt wrote:
> The reason I was told it's on the left side is because the usual
> traffic pattern is to the left. The left wing goes slower in a left
> turn than a right so the airspeed on that wing in that critical phase
> of flight would be the lowest. This would warn of the stall on that
> wing which would occur before the right wing resulting in the stall/spin.
>
> John Lenhardt
> #40262
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: plevenda@jvlv.lv <mailto:plevenda@jvlv.lv>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:06 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Stall warning location
>
> <mailto:plevenda@jvlv.lv>" <paulevenda@mac.com
> <mailto:paulevenda@mac.com>>
>
> Well, count one for "candle moth syndrome". I pulled out my first
> quickbuild wing yesterday, which was the right wing. I set it on
> the table, removed the bottom skin and went to work. In the
> process, as I got around to the leading edge, I noticed the two
> pre-drilled holes for the stall warning vane. So I flipped to the
> page in the manual and went to work cutting out an access hole and
> the slot for the vane. Only AFTER I had all that done did I
> remember I was working on the right wing. It was also then that I
> noticed that Van's pre-driled holes for the stall warning on BOTH
> wings. Oh and yes there is a caution note in the manual, but like
> I said, "Candle Moth"
>
> In all my years of flying I was never given a reason why the stall
> warning is traditionaly on the left wing. So now do I accept an
> extra access hole, patch up the slot on the right wing and start
> all over again on the left wing, or is there any reason why the
> stall warning would not still work on the right wing even though
> it is not in the traditional location.
>
> --------
> Paul Levenda
> #40090
> N974LV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141602#141602
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: section 33-10 help |
Hi Bob
the f-6114 uhmw in question are in subkit #7 of slowbuild kit. ask me how
i no we are at same area in our build
Dave Ludd
NJ #40466, close up of backage area
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: section 33-10 help |
Dave, Thanks for the help. I'm near Allentown PA (1N9) if you
every are in the area drop me an email. your welcome to visit my shop.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
rnewman@tcwtech.com
>>> DLIUDVINAITIS@aol.com 10/26/2007 5:09 PM >>>
Hi Bob
the f-6114 uhmw in question are in subkit #7 of slowbuild kit. ask
me how
i no we are at same area in our build
Dave Ludd
NJ #40466, close up of backage area
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
William, I was looking at that and talked to them. I'm right now of the
opinion that I want the extension and that I want to lower the valve
body 4 or 5 inches. That gives the SCAT tubing a clear run and seems to
avoid any rudder cable, fuel line interference.
The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and except for the extension, the
right valve. It is basically a drop-in replace for the kit supplied
valve but people seemed to have struggled a bit with the SCAT and rudder
cable. I thought that I might be able to pick the valve up from Spruce
and an extension from ACSpruce. But Spruce indicates that they only
sell the extension with a valve. The Andair site makes it clear there
is an A and B type valve - only the B will accept the extension. And,
adding an extension to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of
rod. Andair will sell an extension kit for a B model but by the time
you get done, you are within $75 of just ordering the whole thing from
the factory.
I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported problems with the kit
valve pushed me over the edge to get the Andair. And once there, I'm
trying to get it as right as I can without recreating the same problems
others have had.
The frugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve
The crafty decision would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor
tunnel space issues
The do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision seems to
be just order the thing from the factory.
Did someone say 'budget'?
William Curtis wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T that Van's offers for $205? 90 degree
swing between left and right and 90 degree AN6 ports. Seems almost a drop in
replacement, only you don't have to criss-cross the fuel lines. You don't even
have to lower it and use an extension.
>
> See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves":
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193417645-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>>
>> Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending
>> a bit more research into configuration and availability.
>>
>> I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be
>> the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
>> It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
>> Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
>> extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)
>>
>> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to see
>> if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including the
>> extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
>>
>> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry here,
>> I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides to do it.
>>
>> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
>> Durham NC - #40605
>>
>> Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
>>
>>> Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
>>>
>>> There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
>>> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Jay
>>>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Seems the path of least resistance is to use the Vans offering and route th
e rear cabin heat via the original path. With the input fuel lines 90 degr
ees apart and the center output port, you should also be able to route the
rear heater cable through those lines also as an option.=0A=0AWilliam
=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A=0A-------- Original Message ----
er@nc.rr.com>=0A> =0A> William, I was looking at that and talked to t
hem. I'm right now of the =0A> opinion that I want the extension and th
at I want to lower the valve =0A> body 4 or 5 inches. That gives the SC
AT tubing a clear run and seems to =0A> avoid any rudder cable, fuel lin
e interference.=0A> =0A> The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and exc
ept for the extension, the =0A> right valve. It is basically a drop-in
replace for the kit supplied =0A> valve but people seemed to have strugg
led a bit with the SCAT and rudder =0A> cable. I thought that I might b
e able to pick the valve up from Spruce =0A> and an extension from ACSpr
uce. But Spruce indicates that they only =0A> sell the extension with a
valve. The Andair site makes it clear there =0A> is an A and B type va
lve - only the B will accept the extension. And, =0A> adding an extensi
on to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of =0A> rod. Andair
will sell an extension kit for a B model but by the time =0A> you get d
one, you are within $75 of just ordering the whole thing from =0A> the
factory.=0A> =0A> I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported
problems with the kit =0A> valve pushed me over the edge to get the Anda
ir. And once there, I'm =0A> trying to get it as right as I can without
recreating the same problems =0A> others have had.=0A> =0A> The f
rugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve=0A> The crafty decision
would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor =0A> tunnel space iss
ues=0A> The do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision se
ems to =0A> be just order the thing from the factory.=0A> =0A> Did
someone say 'budget'?=0A> =0A> William Curtis wrote:=0A> > --> RV
10-List message posted by: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>=0A> >
=0A> > Bill,=0A> >=0A> > Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T tha
t Van's offers for $205? 90 degree swing between left and right and 90 de
gree AN6 ports. Seems almost a drop in replacement, only you don't have to
criss-cross the fuel lines. You don't even have to lower it and use an ex
tension.=0A> >=0A> > See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves"
:=0A> > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=11934176
45-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve=0A> >=0A> >
William=0A> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A> >=0A> > -------- Or
iginal Message --------=0A> > =0A> >> --> RV10-List message posted
by: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>=0A> >>=0A> >> Thanks Jay. Th
ose pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending =0A> >> a bit m
ore research into configuration and availability.=0A> >>=0A> >> I int
end to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be =0A> >
> the same one that Neal sold and recommends.=0A> >> It looks like 6" o
f extension is more than enough. Do you agree?=0A> >> Is that the exten
sion with the universal joint? Or just a straight =0A> >> extension? (
I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)=0A> >>
=0A> >> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock t
o see =0A> >> if they have the configuration that Neal was selling inclu
ding the =0A> >> extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....=0A>
>>=0A> >> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent
hurry here, =0A> >> I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Ne
al decides to do it.=0A> >>=0A> >> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders
and fuel lines" Watson=0A> >> Durham NC - #40605=0A> >>=0A> >> Ja
y Brinkmeyer wrote:=0A> >> =0A> >>> Neal was good to me. Don't fo
rget to order the extension kit!=0A> >>>=0A> >>> There are several An
dair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:=0A> >>> http://www.brink
meyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm=0A> >>>=0A> >>> Regards,=0A> >>> J
ay=0A> >>> =0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >
========== =0A
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Bill,
Don't sweat it too hard. The valve was something that I originally
reworked and wanted better. The FS20X7T valve should be an easy
one to fit, and the other andair valve, even with it's tight clearance
to the rudder cables isn't all that bad to fit either. Once you get
the parts, you'll see that it really isn't a big deal at all, and
that it should go together very well. Heck, you've even FLOWN
in a plane with the whole andair valve installed....so you even get
the ease of mind to know that it indeed works. Once you get the parts,
and stuff them in, it'll be just like all the problems when you first
started the empennage....all a thing of the past.
It's just...a...valve, and it's a very nice valve, with very good
positive detents and prevention from accidentally turning it off.
No, it's not the cheapest solution, but of the choices you have, I
believe firmly that it's the best solution, even if others are fine
too. The Cirrus uses that valve too, from what I understand. A couple
months from now you'll look back and laugh that you even stressed
that much. I know how you feel...ever time I had to make a choice
that I thought was huge, I sweated every detail. In the end, yeah,
it paid off, but I sure wasted a lot of time on it. You have the luck
of being able to have many examples to look at of people ahead of you.
I think you'll be happy in the end, knowing you got the best in
fuel valve safety you could do. Plumbing it will not be a big
deal at all....especially if you use flexible lines. Those are
another item I really like how they turned out.
It's too bad you can't be here during inspection time to put your
hands on all these things and see how it all goes together, but
again, you'll be happy in the end.
You may need to come on over for another shot of "motivation" by
burning some 100LL. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> William, I was looking at that and talked to them. I'm right now of the
> opinion that I want the extension and that I want to lower the valve
> body 4 or 5 inches. That gives the SCAT tubing a clear run and seems to
> avoid any rudder cable, fuel line interference.
>
> The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and except for the extension, the
> right valve. It is basically a drop-in replace for the kit supplied
> valve but people seemed to have struggled a bit with the SCAT and rudder
> cable. I thought that I might be able to pick the valve up from Spruce
> and an extension from ACSpruce. But Spruce indicates that they only
> sell the extension with a valve. The Andair site makes it clear there
> is an A and B type valve - only the B will accept the extension. And,
> adding an extension to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of
> rod. Andair will sell an extension kit for a B model but by the time
> you get done, you are within $75 of just ordering the whole thing from
> the factory.
>
> I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported problems with the kit
> valve pushed me over the edge to get the Andair. And once there, I'm
> trying to get it as right as I can without recreating the same problems
> others have had.
>
> The frugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve
> The crafty decision would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor
> tunnel space issues
> The do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision seems to
> be just order the thing from the factory.
>
> Did someone say 'budget'?
>
> William Curtis wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T that Van's offers for $205? 90
>> degree swing between left and right and 90 degree AN6 ports. Seems
>> almost a drop in replacement, only you don't have to criss-cross the
>> fuel lines. You don't even have to lower it and use an extension.
>>
>> See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves":
>> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193417645-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve
>>
>>
>> William
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order
>>> pending a bit more research into configuration and availability.
>>>
>>> I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to
>>> be the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
>>> It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
>>> Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
>>> extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I
>>> need)
>>>
>>> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to
>>> see if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including
>>> the extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
>>>
>>> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry
>>> here, I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides
>>> to do it.
>>>
>>> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
>>> Durham NC - #40605
>>>
>>> Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
>>>
>>>> Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
>>>>
>>>> There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
>>>> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
I purchased my valve from Neal and thankfully he knew all the parts that
were needed for the extension. I probably would have ended up ordering crap
I didn't need. I attached I pic of my extension setup.
Steven dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve@adelphia.net
716.579.5790
William, I was looking at that and talked to them. I'm right now of the
opinion that I want the extension and that I want to lower the valve body 4
or 5 inches. That gives the SCAT tubing a clear run and seems to avoid any
rudder cable, fuel line interference.
The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and except for the extension, the right
valve. It is basically a drop-in replace for the kit supplied valve but
people seemed to have struggled a bit with the SCAT and rudder cable. I
thought that I might be able to pick the valve up from Spruce and an
extension from ACSpruce. But Spruce indicates that they only sell the
extension with a valve. The Andair site makes it clear there is an A and B
type valve - only the B will accept the extension. And, adding an extension
to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of rod. Andair will sell
an extension kit for a B model but by the time you get done, you are within
$75 of just ordering the whole thing from the factory.
I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported problems with the kit
valve pushed me over the edge to get the Andair. And once there, I'm trying
to get it as right as I can without recreating the same problems others have
had.
The frugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve The crafty decision
would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor tunnel space issues The
do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision seems to be just
order the thing from the factory.
Did someone say 'budget'?
Message 32
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N991RV first flew on 10/23. 4 hours now but oil temps are too high - 245 -
so I'm trying to fix that. Otherwise, it flies great, just as I hoped. What
a plane!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congrats Albert!!
A fine looking machine.
John 40315
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 3:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N991RV first flew on 10/23. 4 hours now but oil temps are too high - 245
- so I'm trying to fix that. Otherwise, it flies great, just as I hoped.
What a plane!Albert GardnerYuma, AZ
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