Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:51 AM - Re: Re: QB fuselage floors (Jae Chang)
2. 02:25 AM - Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller (John Dunne)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller (Tim Olson)
4. 06:49 AM - Re: Re: QB fuselage floors (Patrick ONeill)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 07:34 AM - Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller (Tim Olson)
7. 12:46 PM - Re: A reminder on rivet lines in glass (John W. Cox)
8. 02:31 PM - Safety-Trim Promotion (Bob-tcw)
9. 02:50 PM - Rolling the front fuse skis (Les Kearney)
10. 03:23 PM - Re: Rolling the front fuse skis (Bob-tcw)
11. 03:41 PM - Flap Positioning System - Epilog (McGANN, Ron)
12. 07:09 PM - Re: Rolling the front fuse skis (Ben Westfall)
13. 07:36 PM - Section 23 question about torque tube installation (Ben Westfall)
14. 07:37 PM - Re: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes (John W. Cox)
15. 08:49 PM - Re: Section 23 question about torque tube installation (Chris and Susie McGough)
16. 10:33 PM - Re: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes (Ben Westfall)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec35_access_floor_panels/2007_1028_floors.html
I thought i would share my technique for removing my rear seat floors.
considering how difficult they were getting them in, i was expecting the
worst when time came to take them back out again.
Tools used:
90 deg angle pick ... $1
#30 clecos ... $1
lots and lots of fake credit cards you get in the mail, as shims ...
priceless! :)
Jae
#40533
dherring10 wrote:
>
> I also had a lot of trouble getting them out. What I remember is that if you
get it wedged as you are coming out it is very easy to crimp the turned up edge.
As a matter of fact I got mine out but when I was reinstalling them later I
got the left one wedged and ended up tearing it up and had to order another one.
The new one was just as tight but I just took my time and tried to keep it
even on each side as I went back down and did not have anymore problems. So just
don't get mad and to rough.
> Sorry I don't have anymore advise.
>
> Dwayne Herring
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
Great write up Tim.
This is what I've been looking for. I've been more than a tad concerned
about the possible severe forces that could be imposed with accidental
application of too much trim at high speeds and more so, runaway trim
possibilities on the current system and the problem with a reset.
I'll admit I'm more at home with a manual trim system on any aircraft I've
flown but that is usually because it isn't as easy to aquire an instant
"feel" for an electronic system versus a roll with the wheel, at least that
has been my experience.
I'm not sure if this is the same person and company that was mentioned a few
months back by someone when the discussion came up on the list about runaway
trims and resets?
I agree and believe if it works as advertised then this might be a good
safety edition.
Once again great writeup and thankyou for your research!
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Great results after installing new Trim Controller
>
> For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
> trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
> with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great write-up
> for you.
>
> After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
> because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
> problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
> than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
> hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
>
> Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
> got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
> and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
> appreciate.
>
> Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
> including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
> the RV-10.
>
> Here's the write-up:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>
> The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
> something you want to do right.
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
You know, I thought of something I left out kind of, and that is
that it's a very easy retrofit installation. There is enough
wire in the harnesses that if you have all the relays mounted
in the same general area, you should be able to easily take a
flying RV-10 and cut this system in without much hassle. Other than
the waste you go through buying relays as an original installation, and
then throwing them away later, there's no reason why a person can't
just fly it the "bad" way and do some testing, and easily upgrade
once they see how bad it really is. It's a pretty drastic difference.
I know how it is to sit watching the list and wonder...."is it really
worth it?" or "do I really need that?", so perhaps what a person
needs is to first do their testing, and picture what they'd do in
some situations where the trim got wild. I think once a person
discovers the "problem", they'll want to take a preventative solution.
It's the reason that ever since I started giving demo flights,
I give a couple of standard statements:
"Go ahead and fly the plane as you would your own. Don't be afraid
to do steep turns or whatever you are comfortable with. But, be aware
that while the roll forces get very stiff at higher speeds, the pitch
forces are very light, so be easy on the elevator. And, the trim
works very quickly...here, let me show you....now that we're flying
level, hold the trim switch back for a count of 1 second..." That's
usually the point where their eyes bug out when they see how much
trim you can get at full-speed in 1 second. I've made it a point
to show people going all the way back, so obviously I believe that
it's an issue. I just didn't have the luck of finding the right
off-the-shelf system to fix it until now.
Hmm. I think I'll make these lines part of the page before too
many people read it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Dunne wrote:
>
> Great write up Tim.
> This is what I've been looking for. I've been more than a tad concerned
> about the possible severe forces that could be imposed with accidental
> application of too much trim at high speeds and more so, runaway trim
> possibilities on the current system and the problem with a reset.
> I'll admit I'm more at home with a manual trim system on any aircraft
> I've flown but that is usually because it isn't as easy to aquire an
> instant "feel" for an electronic system versus a roll with the wheel, at
> least that has been my experience.
> I'm not sure if this is the same person and company that was mentioned a
> few months back by someone when the discussion came up on the list about
> runaway trims and resets?
> I agree and believe if it works as advertised then this might be a good
> safety edition.
> Once again great writeup and thankyou for your research!
> John 40315
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:35 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Great results after installing new Trim Controller
>
>
>>
>> For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
>> trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
>> with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great
>> write-up for you.
>>
>> After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
>> because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
>> problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
>> than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
>> hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
>>
>> Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
>> got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
>> and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
>> appreciate.
>>
>> Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
>> including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
>> the RV-10.
>>
>> Here's the write-up:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>>
>> The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
>> something you want to do right.
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage floors |
Those rear floor panels were definitely not much fun. While rummaging
around the garage I came across an unused bicycle spoke. I ended up bending
it 90 degrees in the middle of the shaft and used the hub end to hook the
corners and work them up bit by bit and it wasn't too bad. Removing all the
bolts for the gear weldments took a lot more effort.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB fuselage floors
http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec35_access_floor
_panels/2007_1028_floors.html
I thought i would share my technique for removing my rear seat floors.
considering how difficult they were getting them in, i was expecting the
worst when time came to take them back out again.
Tools used:
90 deg angle pick ... $1
#30 clecos ... $1
lots and lots of fake credit cards you get in the mail, as shims ...
priceless! :)
Jae
#40533
dherring10 wrote:
>
> I also had a lot of trouble getting them out. What I remember is that if
you get it wedged as you are coming out it is very easy to crimp the turned
up edge. As a matter of fact I got mine out but when I was reinstalling them
later I got the left one wedged and ended up tearing it up and had to order
another one. The new one was just as tight but I just took my time and tried
to keep it even on each side as I went back down and did not have anymore
problems. So just don't get mad and to rough.
> Sorry I don't have anymore advise.
>
> Dwayne Herring
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
Looks pretty neat. How much did it cost you for the whole project?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Great results after installing new Trim Controller
For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great write-up
for you.
After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
appreciate.
Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
the RV-10.
Here's the write-up:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
something you want to do right.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
It was just the price of the controller plus about $12 for my changing
up to the lever-lock switch plus the limit switch, (plus shipping on
those items), and then a few hours of time. The worst was running
the wire to the area in the back seat...I never pulled any extras
down there, so I had to remove the side panel under the door and
the side panel by the copilot knees. That was a pain. As far
as controllers go, they have single axis systems that would also
be fine for the install and could save money, but considering the
easier wiring, the dual-axis one adds that extra value. Pricing is
on Bob's site for all of the different systems. The one I got
was the 2 speed 2 axis at $445.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Looks pretty neat. How much did it cost you for the whole project?
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:36 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Great results after installing new Trim Controller
>
>
> For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
> trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
> with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great write-up
> for you.
>
> After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
> because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
> problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
> than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
> hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
>
> Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
> got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
> and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
> appreciate.
>
> Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
> including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
> the RV-10.
>
> Here's the write-up:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>
> The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
> something you want to do right.
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | A reminder on rivet lines in glass |
David, you have a good eye on the emerging trend. As you might remember
from about a year past, I had posted pictures of cracks which developed
in fillets from the use of microballoon. I also showed pictures of
recesses in poly filler which takes 18 to 24 months to reach mature
cure. That can really hurt when you lay a three color, custom paint job
over those fasteners. Your post on the use of a layer of Eglass was
picked up by Deems in his build. I am confident that time will prove
the wisdom of the technique.
I think many following the build it by the instructions from VANS will
find that skills of Sheetmetal and rivet building have to change as the
composite parts count and techniques need to be adapted to those with
skill at plastic planes.
It was too bad that only N110GS made it to Copperstate. I did enjoy
seeing it as well as Jon Sharp's NXT, the Spooky C-47 and a new Light
Sport offering though. 94 degrees in late October - Wow. Back to the
rain and the Pacific NW humidity patterns.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 7:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: A reminder on rivet lines in glass
For the recent builders: I visited Copperstate and admired a 10 there.
We discussed his paint job and looked at the fiberglass areas after 60
hours. The external rivet lines that result from the cowling hinges and
lid attachment to the aluminum were beginning to show rivet heads
through the paint. This will occur unless the aircraft has a layer of
Eglass over the rivet line. Ask me how I know; I missed the few rivets
around the oil door on my Glastar. He also has an indentation beginning
to show were the windows meet the flange of the lid. Both problems can
be avoided by glassing a 1 inch wide strip on a 45 degree bias around
the edges of the window flange and over the rivet lines in the cowl. The
Eglass is then covered with a thin coat of Evercoat finishing, sanded
smooth and feathered into the adjacent structure.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Safety-Trim Promotion |
Fellow RV builders,
Thanks to all of those who have visited our site and
especially to those who are now customers. If you visited our site
previously, please take a second look, we now have two new promotions
up that will help lower the cost of a Safety-Trim intelligent servo
controller system. Please visit our site www.tcwtech.com to learn
more.
Thanks,
Bob Newman
Message 9
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| Subject: | Rolling the front fuse skis |
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn=92t like the
suggested
method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When doing the
rear
skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length of the skin to
be
rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate. The front skin
method is
different in that it requires the construction roll angles to be only
clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up
ruining
a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start to move
and
the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have used more
clamps
but I wasn=92t sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
* First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
* Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4=92 piece of
1 =BD by
1 =BD by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 =BD=94 angle is required to reach
the skin
holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
* I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then match
drilled the skin holes into the angle.
* I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes into
a
mirror image piece of aluminium
* I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was doing
the
aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward
skins. I
then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 ' Singing the section 29 blues
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rolling the front fuse skis |
I second this one!. When I rolled the front skins I did have one of
the van's recommended vise-grip style clamps come off and dent the skin.
Fortuneately I hardly had any pressure on the clamp and I was able to
fix the dent. However, the method in the instruction manual is
definetly flawed. I found that i was able to use a series of wood hand
clamps to secure the two angle aluminum roll guides. They worked just
fine, but I was nervous the whole time. The method described making
bigger roll guides is probably the best. Keep up the good work in
monster section 29.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rolling the front fuse skis
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn't like the
suggested method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When
doing the rear skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length
of the skin to be rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate.
The front skin method is different in that it requires the construction
roll angles to be only clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up
ruining a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start
to move and the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have
used more clamps but I wasn't sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
=B7 First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
=B7 Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4' piece
of 1 =BD by 1 =BD by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 =BD" angle is required
to reach the skin holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
=B7 I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then
match drilled the skin holes into the angle.
=B7 I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes
into a mirror image piece of aluminium
=B7 I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was
doing the aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward
skins. I then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Singing the section 29 blues
Message 11
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System - Epilog |
Ok, I think I have this puppy nailed.
If you have Showplanes FPS installation instructions (Iss A 2003) from
their website, it contains NO info on the 10 - throw it in the bin.
If you have Showplanes FPS installation instructions (Iss C 2004) from
Vans, it contains WRONG info on the 10 - throw it in the bin.
In the -10, flaps are retracted when the actuator is fully extended.
This is the RV-8 configuration (as correclty pointed out by Rick S.), so
measure the Positioning Rod Clamp to 5 15/16". Connect the Motor P1 to
red, and Motor P2 to black as for the 4,6,7 and 9 models. This
installation works as advertised for me.
I was wrong about the fusible links in the controller - they were
actually the PC tracks that had completely lifted from the board!!
(they certainly behaved like fusible links!). A replacement controller
module is $45 for those interested.
I would highly recommend the use of a Molex style connector between the
FPS and and flap motor, and make sure you disconnect the motor from the
FPS if you need to drive it manually.
Cheers,
187
Ron - one problem solved 4,867,164 to go!
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Rolling the front fuse skis |
I third this=85 I unfortunately wasn=92t as smart as you. What I ended
up
doing was following vans plans pretty much. The same thing happened to
me
on the forward edge where the clamps started slipping and the aluminum
angle
actually flexed away from the skins. I was able to use the hand seamers
from avery to clamp the angles as close to the forward edge as I could.
I
found if I leaned across the workbench, cussed a whole bunch (at least
30
minutes per skin), and popped a vein in my forehead squeezing with my
hands
as hard as I could while rolling, things worked out pretty good. I
would
definitely take more time looking at it and figuring another method
(like
yours below) if I had to do it again.
I did have to massage out a crease caused by the aluminum angle slipping
on
one of them. I figure if anybody starts crawling around underneath
looking
at my =93skin bending job=94 it will be because theirs look similar. We
will
then go have a beer together while discussing runaway trim!!
Section 29 sucks!!!
-Ben
#40579
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rolling the front fuse skis
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn=92t like the
suggested
method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When doing the
rear
skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length of the skin to
be
rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate. The front skin
method is
different in that it requires the construction roll angles to be only
clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up
ruining
a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start to move
and
the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have used more
clamps
but I wasn=92t sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
* First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
* Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4=92 piece of
1 =BD by
1 =BD by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 =BD=94 angle is required to reach
the skin
holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
* I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then match
drilled the skin holes into the angle.
* I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes into
a
mirror image piece of aluminium
* I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was doing
the
aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward
skins. I
then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 ' Singing the section 29 blues
Message 13
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| Subject: | Section 23 question about torque tube installation |
I have a question about the torque tube installation on Sec 23-7. When
installing the torque tube the plans call for shimming any misalignment
forward/aft using AN960-416/L washers. After the tube is slipped in place
(scratching off a sizeable portion of my nicely primed and painted
WD-1014C's) and bolted together there was a fair amount of forward/aft play
between the bearings. An AN960-416 on each side of torque tube between the
bearings took the play out but as a result there is not enough threads
poking through the AN365-428 lock nuts to be acceptable. If I take the
washers out its might be possible to get 1 threads worth on each forward and
aft nut but that might introduce some pre load on the structure (read
squeeze things together)
Has anyone else encountered this? Should I just use a shorter lockunut?
Pictures here: http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=sec23
-Ben
#40579
PDX
Message 14
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| Subject: | WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
We are overdue for the October Dinner of the NW RV-10 group. I will
like a fire under John Jessen to get all of us together for a fall
dinner and discussion.
Thanks,
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
John,
Not "the bad guy", just keeping the rest of us honest. And maybe saving
a life or two in the process. Hmm sounds like hero work, but heroes are
sometimes miss understood.
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top)
do not archive
________________________________
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
Les, was that Ken Krueger or Ken Scott that quoted for the whole
engineering department/ group at VANS? If you heard that in writing,
could you (Please) post it so that others can base their build technique
on it as well. Their professional knowledge base and academic training
are vastly differing between the two Ken's.
A 2X rivet diameter to edge distance is a fairly solid and hard rule to
avoid both stress cracks and tears on military, civil air carrier and
certified general aviation build aeroplanes. I have both the US Army
DOD Structural Manual and the Naval Aviator's Manuals, The Canadian
Bombardier Structural Aircraft Manual along with the FAA AC 43.13. Would
anyone else like another Aviation Structural Engineer's written opinion
before proceeding with reduced edge distances? If it is a modern change,
I am all for modifying decades old technique.
Gosh, And why is it that I always seem like the bad guy when following
an established construction technique? Must be the weather out here.
Don't take any of this personally I have to maintain French Canadian
designed and built aircraft every night. Epic Aircraft found it
advantageous to move from Oregon to Canada for a most interesting
reason.
I am not even going there on the subject of closing gaps with shim
material before anchoring skins with solid rivet fasteners.
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9.
Stop by today!
<http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM
_OctWLtagline>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Section 23 question about torque tube installation |
Vans know about this and were going to change the plans and parts to a
thinner lock nut.
regards chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Westfall
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Section 23 question about torque tube installation
I have a question about the torque tube installation on Sec 23-7.
When installing the torque tube the plans call for shimming any
misalignment forward/aft using AN960-416/L washers. After the tube is
slipped in place (scratching off a sizeable portion of my nicely primed
and painted WD-1014C's) and bolted together there was a fair amount of
forward/aft play between the bearings. An AN960-416 on each side of
torque tube between the bearings took the play out but as a result there
is not enough threads poking through the AN365-428 lock nuts to be
acceptable. If I take the washers out its might be possible to get 1
threads worth on each forward and aft nut but that might introduce some
pre load on the structure (read squeeze things together)
Has anyone else encountered this? Should I just use a shorter
lockunut?
Pictures here: http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=sec23
-Ben
#40579
PDX
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Sounds like a good idea. Everyone has to bring a picture of their
WD-1002
install=85 :-)
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
We are overdue for the October Dinner of the NW RV-10 group. I will
like a
fire under John Jessen to get all of us together for a fall dinner and
discussion.
Thanks,
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
John,
Not "the bad guy", just keeping the rest of us honest. And maybe saving
a
life or two in the process. Hmm sounds like hero work, but heroes are
sometimes miss understood.
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top)
do not archive
_____
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
Les, was that Ken Krueger or Ken Scott that quoted for the whole
engineering
department/ group at VANS? If you heard that in writing, could you
(Please)
post it so that others can base their build technique on it as well.
Their
professional knowledge base and academic training are vastly differing
between the two Ken=92s.
A 2X rivet diameter to edge distance is a fairly solid and hard rule to
avoid both stress cracks and tears on military, civil air carrier and
certified general aviation build aeroplanes. I have both the US Army
DOD
Structural Manual and the Naval Aviator=92s Manuals, The Canadian
Bombardier
Structural Aircraft Manual along with the FAA AC 43.13. Would anyone
else
like another Aviation Structural Engineer=92s written opinion before
proceeding with reduced edge distances? If it is a modern change, I am
all
for modifying decades old technique.
Gosh, And why is it that I always seem like the bad guy when following
an
established construction technique? Must be the weather out here.
Don=92t
take any of this personally I have to maintain French Canadian designed
and
built aircraft every night. Epic Aircraft found it advantageous to move
from Oregon to Canada for a most interesting reason.
I am not even going there on the subject of closing gaps with shim
material
before anchoring skins with solid rivet fasteners.
John Cox - KUAO
_____
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9.
Stop by
today!
<http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM
_OctW
Ltagline>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
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