Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - Re: Door Edge Insulation (Tim Olson)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Vans Wingtip Light Kit - missing stuff (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: Fuel Valve problem (Sam Marlow)
4. 11:35 AM - -10 Builders in DC area (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 01:06 PM - pilots operating handbook (David McNeill)
6. 06:22 PM - Re: Trim troubles (Dan Masys)
7. 07:27 PM - Re: Vans Wingtip Light Kit - missing stuff (David Maib)
8. 07:50 PM - Re: Re: Trim troubles (Tim Olson)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Door Edge Insulation |
I had my local NAPA store order it for me. I think most stores
that sell auto body supplies should be able to get it. That said,
once I got it I really couldn't see any difference between it and
GE Silicon II, but perhaps it just looks/smells/feels identical
and the GE stuff doesn't adhere as well...I'm not sure. Anyway,
it should be easy to order and get in a day or two.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>
> I'm finally getting around to putting the 'P' strip around the door edges
> and running into a problem. I was unable to find any 3M Super Silicone
> Sealant as was recommended, if fact other than DAP brand, the only thing I
> found was GE Silicon II but it doesn't stick very well to the 'P' strip. Has
> the 3M stuff worked well for everybody? If so, any ideas on where to get it?
> ACS has a couple of items in their catalog:
> Pg 74 Dow Corning "Silastic"
> Pg 127 Valco Cincinnati Multi-purpose Sealant
> Pg 131 3M Weatherstrip adhesives - several listed.
> The cabin is pretty noisy without the door edge insulation.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Vans Wingtip Light Kit - missing stuff |
On mine the cups went up about halfway, and the springs really had to be
compressed to fit at all. I made the angle spacers, and tried to screw
everything together repeatedly before I finally figured out how to get
it all to work. The easy way to do it, is to put all three through the
face plate and set it on the bench, put springs on the screws, backing
plate on, and compress the springs until they just seat in the nut
plates. Then this is the hard part, slide the whole assembly to the side
of the bench and as one screw is exposed get a screwdriver on it and
hold the pressure. Do this for each of the three and it works. The hard
part is then getting the angle spacers to line up, but work with it.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans Wingtip Light Kit - missing stuff
All of my parts were there (2 retainer cups/plates) but the bulbs don't
seem to fit very well into the cups, so the retainer plate is
difficult/impossible to get installed correctly. I have not called
Van's, but wonder if the size of the bulbs has changed slightly since
they manufactured the cups. I will be interested to hear what others
have found.
David Maib
40559
On Tuesday, October 30, 2007, at 04:19PM, "Jay Brinkmeyer"
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
>Has anyone else had issues with missing VA-194B and VA-194C MR16
Retainer cups/plates? Kudos to Vans for sending replacement parts (no
charge). However, their system showed quantity 4 each and my OP-36
directions show quantity 2 each. Two lights per side?
>
>Maybe I've been sniffing too much fiberglass dust lately...
>
>Cheers,
>Jay
>fiberglass is good for you, dooda, dooda... (to the tune of Old
Suzzana)
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve problem |
Idid, and it looked perfectly normal. No cracks in the plastic, smooth
operation, nothing one could see.
Dave Saylor wrote:
> Sam,
>
> Did you take apart the faulty valve?
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA
> 831-722-9141
> 831-750-0284 CL
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com <http://www.AirCraftersLLC.com>
>
>
> Do Not Archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 30, 2007 9:19 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fuel Valve problem
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know, I changed the fuel selector, and
> that fixed the fuel shutoff problem as well as the venting overboard
> after refueling. Everything was plumbed properly, it was a defective
> valve, part #V407P-4, that is standard issue in the RV-10 kit supplied
> by Van's.
> I would suggest everyone test there valve periodically for proper
> operation! Be safe, stay informed, this forum is a valuable resource!
> Sam Marlow
> #40157
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | -10 Builders in DC area |
I find myself out in Sterling VA and Germantown MD for the next 2 days on business
and was wondering if there are an -10 builders that would like any help
or just to have a beer. Not sure of my availability yet but thought I would throw
that out there. Email me off list.
Michael
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | pilots operating handbook |
I .think someone publish something on this awhile back. Anyone have a pdf of
a starting point for the POH.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trim troubles |
> Time: 01:47:17 PM PST US
> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim troubles
>
>
> I think I have it wired that way, the relay clicks when I activate the stick
> but the servo won't move unless I press the panel switch. Both switches
> activate the relay though.
>
> Gary
> 40274
If those panel mounted switches are the rocker switches supplied by Ray Allen,
the problem is that if you look closely at the schematic for those switches, they
ground both sides of the SPDT circuit when the rocker is in the neutral position.
This is supposed to reduce the amount of trim motor run-on, but it perfectly
skunks the possibility of having a separate switch in parallel (ie., the
one on the coolie hat) to work the flaps or trim circuit.
This little "feature" of the rocker switches caused me to have to re-cut the right
side panel to get rid of the rectangular hole for the Ray Allen switch, and
put in a standard SPDT spring loaded switch for the panel mount location.
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD flying - 75 hrs.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vans Wingtip Light Kit - missing stuff |
Thanks Dan.
On Oct 31, 2007, at 7:55 AM, Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
On mine the cups went up about halfway, and the springs really had to be
compressed to fit at all. I made the angle spacers, and tried to screw
everything together repeatedly before I finally figured out how to get
it all to work. The easy way to do it, is to put all three through the
face plate and set it on the bench, put springs on the screws, backing
plate on, and compress the springs until they just seat in the nut
plates. Then this is the hard part, slide the whole assembly to the side
of the bench and as one screw is exposed get a screwdriver on it and
hold the pressure. Do this for each of the three and it works. The hard
part is then getting the angle spacers to line up, but work with it.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans Wingtip Light Kit - missing stuff
All of my parts were there (2 retainer cups/plates) but the bulbs
don't
seem to fit very well into the cups, so the retainer plate is
difficult/impossible to get installed correctly. I have not called
Van's, but wonder if the size of the bulbs has changed slightly since
they manufactured the cups. I will be interested to hear what others
have found.
David Maib
40559
On Tuesday, October 30, 2007, at 04:19PM, "Jay Brinkmeyer"
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
<jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>
> Has anyone else had issues with missing VA-194B and VA-194C MR16
Retainer cups/plates? Kudos to Vans for sending replacement parts (no
charge). However, their system showed quantity 4 each and my OP-36
directions show quantity 2 each. Two lights per side?
>
> Maybe I've been sniffing too much fiberglass dust lately...
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
> fiberglass is good for you, dooda, dooda... (to the tune of Old
Suzzana)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trim troubles |
I don't think it negates all possibilities....with both the relay
system, and the Safety-Trim system, I had a panel mounted Elevator
switch (Ray Allen Type), and 2 stick switches, and all 3 switches
worked fine. You just have to piece together the proper diagrams
from Ray Allen and then it all works together. I know someone
mentioned diodes already, and I think I had a pair in my install
too, but I haven't taken the time to re-think how I put that all
together....but I do know it works.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Dan Masys wrote:
>
>
>> Time: 01:47:17 PM PST US
>> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim troubles
>>
>>
>> I think I have it wired that way, the relay clicks when I activate the stick
>> but the servo won't move unless I press the panel switch. Both switches
>> activate the relay though.
>>
>> Gary
>> 40274
>
> If those panel mounted switches are the rocker switches supplied by Ray Allen,
the problem is that if you look closely at the schematic for those switches,
they ground both sides of the SPDT circuit when the rocker is in the neutral
position. This is supposed to reduce the amount of trim motor run-on, but it
perfectly skunks the possibility of having a separate switch in parallel (ie.,
the one on the coolie hat) to work the flaps or trim circuit.
>
> This little "feature" of the rocker switches caused me to have to re-cut the
right side panel to get rid of the rectangular hole for the Ray Allen switch,
and put in a standard SPDT spring loaded switch for the panel mount location.
>
> -Dan Masys
> RV-10 N104LD flying - 75 hrs.
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|