Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:14 AM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Jesse Saint)
2. 05:01 AM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Dave Leikam)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (linn Walters)
4. 06:34 AM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Michael Kraus)
5. 07:23 AM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Redux (John Cram)
6. 08:35 AM - Tim Olson (John Gonzalez)
7. 02:34 PM - FS: Fuel Boost Pump for IO-540 (Kyrilian Dyer)
8. 03:13 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Tim Olson)
9. 03:14 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Tim Olson)
10. 03:35 PM - Re: Tim Olson (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
11. 03:56 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Marcus Cooper)
12. 04:11 PM - Stuffed hole help (Chris and Susie McGough)
13. 05:08 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Pascal)
14. 05:18 PM - Re: Stuffed hole help (Tim Olson)
15. 06:12 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Tim Olson)
16. 06:27 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Bob-tcw)
17. 06:51 PM - Re: Tim Olson (Rick Sked)
18. 07:34 PM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Bill Schlatterer)
19. 08:52 PM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Vernon Smith)
20. 08:55 PM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Steven DiNieri)
21. 09:18 PM - High Oil Temp (Albert Gardner)
22. 09:33 PM - Re: cowl fitting tips. (Bill Schlatterer)
23. 10:12 PM - Re: Stuffed hole help (AirMike)
24. 10:37 PM - Fiberglass/plexiglass cabin top window purgatory (AirMike)
25. 10:42 PM - Re: High Oil Temp (AirMike)
Message 1
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Subject: | cowl fitting tips. |
Remember not to drill the spinner front plate that you already have
installed in the hub. The orientation of the cylinder on the front of the
hub may not be the same on all props.
Nice-looking plenum, but how does the air get in there? :-)
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Steven DiNieri [mailto:capsteve@adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
here's a quick pic of the prop hub i acquired from a prop shop for 40 bucks
shipped. its unairworthy of coarse and he needed to be convinced i wasn't
going to try and fly behind it. DUH.. i figured when i was done I'd release
it into RV land and let rv10 builders pass it on...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same
way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the
bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read
the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow
and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an
email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
_____
From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really
necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a
spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of
3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers ;-) to make it
exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and
sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop
spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who
knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close,
fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be
glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually
said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to
get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: cowl fitting tips. |
Is it possible that the nickels will press into the wood and cause an
alignment error?
Dave Leikam
40496
wiring wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Schlatterer
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is
really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the
dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took
three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in
spacers ;-) to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I
have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the
prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect
but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get
it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I
will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it.
They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it
so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 8:16 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Why didn't I think of that? I'll keep the prop lead time in mind.
Thank you all for the suggestions.
Vern Smith
Do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: jesse@saintaviation.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 21:37:12 -0500
Contact a prop shop and see if you can get a junk prop hub that you
can use or have. You can fit the back plate to that and go from there.
Just give them the C2YR number and they will know what hub you need.
Don't forget the long lead time on the prop, 2-3 months.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: Vernon Smith [mailto:planesmith@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 9:07 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Glad you brought this up. I've been working on the cabin top/doors
and was wondering if there is any way to fit the cowl without a prop?
Mounting the engine and baffling is not a problem but I would like to
hold off on ordering the prop. Any ideas?
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top & doors)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: dlm46007@cox.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:06:34 -0800
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is
shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not
possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner
in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling
should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling
(less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have
to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found
that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why
Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard
IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before
fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the
lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the
cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that
the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after
100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in
alignment
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Message 3
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Subject: | Re: cowl fitting tips. |
Message 4
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Subject: | cowl fitting tips. |
Just FYI, we used the Van's recommended spacer to set the cowl on my buddy's RV-7
as we did not have the prop.... When we went to install the prop, the prop
backplate had over 1/8'' hard interference with the cowl. We had to take almost
1/4'' off the back of the cowl. Sounds easy, but the cowl tapers forward
and the pins became infinitely harder to install and the stress on the side hinges
went up dramatically. Not to mention the fit was not nearly as nice as it
was.
My recommendation would be to have the prop and spinner, or the exact hub and spinner
when setting the cowl....
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: 11/05/07 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really
necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a
spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of
3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers ;-) to make it
exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and
sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Redux |
I just received an email from Owen at Andair. They are resending me my
order, this time by UPS. All is good.
John Cram
40569
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Redux
<Tim@MyRV10.com<mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
They aren't the quickest responding company, that's for sure.
I actually phoned them a few times as well, using an AT&T
calling card. I figured it was worth poking them a bit.
They did come through in the end. I get the feeling that
they're highly reliant on a few specific individuals.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Cram wrote:
> Back to the Andair valve. I ordered the pricey extension kit from
them 2
> months ago and have never received it. we are in the email back and
> forth stage now. I asked them to track it for me with no luck so
far.
> just sent off a new request this am. will keep list informed of the
> drama as it unfolds.
>
> John Cram
> 40569- Nick is going to final mount the top this week. (I am out of
town
> working)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* orchidman
<mailto:gary@wingscc.com<mailto:gary@wingscc.com>>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 05, 2007 8:32 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Redux
>
<gary@wingscc.com<mailto:gary@wingscc.com>
> <mailto:gary@wingscc.com<mailto:gary@wingscc.com>>>
>
> Another comment, there are 2 different bolt/nut plate patterns
on
> the mounting bracket. I was lucky in that the AFS flowscan
takes
> the alternate mounting pattern and I had just received it when I
was
> at that point in Section 28.
> So if you don't know which you will be using, you might want to
> leave the bracket off and then rivet it on when you know what
you
> are going to do for sure.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143979#143979<http://forums
matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=143979#143979>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/c<http://www.matronics.com/c> Thank you
for your generous
> ; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp; Navigator
> Photoshare, and
title=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic>
> via the Web title=http://forums.matronics.com/
>
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com<http://f
orums.matronics.com%22%3ehttp//forums.matronics.com>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
Message 6
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Hey Tim,
Your email link on your webpage isn't working for me. I promise I don't eat
spam and I don't think I hang out in the trash.
Can you send me a note offline with your phone number where I can reach you.
JOhn Gonzalez
Message 7
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Subject: | FS: Fuel Boost Pump for IO-540 |
I thought this may be of interest to RV-10 builders installing an IO-540.
I have a new/unused Dukes 12-14V fuel boost pump for the Lycoming IO-540. (P/N 5456-00-1) http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=5456-00-1
This is a new, unopened (still sealed in the box) single speed pump I got with
my kit. Aerocraft Parts is selling the pump for $825. I'm asking $600 +s/h.
I'm building a Lancair Legacy and was initially intending to install a Lycoming
IO-540-V4A5. However, I've since decided to install the Continental IO-550N
more typically installed in the Legacy, which requires a two-speed pump. I'm
not sure what's typically used on the RV-10, but this single speed boost pump
is intended for the 260hp IO-540 available for the Legacy.
Let me know if you're interested.
Regards,
- Kyrilian
__________________________________________________
Message 8
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You mean the link on my main site page? That's a messed up graphic
is all. You can't read that? ;) I'll reply offline with my
contact info.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Your email link on your webpage isn't working for me. I promise I don't
> eat spam and I don't think I hang out in the trash.
>
> Can you send me a note offline with your phone number where I can reach
> you.
>
> JOhn Gonzalez
>
>
Message 9
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|
Shoot, the rest of you just forget that number. ;)
Darn dna not there when I wanted it most.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Your email link on your webpage isn't working for me. I promise I don't
> eat spam and I don't think I hang out in the trash.
>
> Can you send me a note offline with your phone number where I can reach
> you.
>
> JOhn Gonzalez
>
Message 10
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Well, I already did, but now I have to do it again.... ;-)
Matt
do not archive
>--------------
>
>Matt, why don't you delete this from the archives.
>
>do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:13 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>
>
>John, give me a call at xxx-xxx-xxxx.
>Tim
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 11
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Too late, I already gave the number to the phone solicitors as a better
contact number ;)
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 5:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tim Olson
Well, I already did, but now I have to do it again.... ;-)
Matt
do not archive
>--------------
>
>Matt, why don't you delete this from the archives.
>
>do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:13 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>
>
>John, give me a call at xxx-xxx-xxxx.
>Tim
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 12
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Subject: | Stuffed hole help |
Guys while finishing the bafling I cross threaded one of the holes in
the front cylinder that the bafling is held on with . Its the front
Right hole that the front dam is held on with. This is loking from front
of engine.
I got the corect tap and now the screw does go in but seems very loose
until it in all the way in. Any ideas to tighten it up? I was thinking
Loctite but the temperature range is to low?
regards Chris 388
Message 13
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If you weren't so quick to respond to e-mails I would actually see a benefit
to having this ph number.
Pascal
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>
> John, give me a call Tim
>
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>
>> Hey Tim,
>>
>> Your email link on your webpage isn't working for me. I promise I don't
>> eat spam and I don't think I hang out in the trash.
>>
>> Can you send me a note offline with your phone number where I can reach
>> you.
>>
>> JOhn Gonzalez
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Stuffed hole help |
I'm not sure if they'll have the size you need or not, but perhaps
a heli-coil insert or something like that would work.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> Guys while finishing the bafling I cross threaded one of the holes in
> the front cylinder that the bafling is held on with . Its the front
> Right hole that the front dam is held on with. This is loking from front
> of engine.
> I got the corect tap and now the screw does go in but seems very
> loose until it in all the way in. Any ideas to tighten it up? I was
> thinking Loctite but the temperature range is to low?
>
> regards Chris 388
>
Message 15
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Ooops, I think my original post was a typo....the real number
should be 867-5309....ask for Jenny. ;) (now, try getting
that song out of your head)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Too late, I already gave the number to the phone solicitors as a better
> contact number ;)
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 5:35 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>
>
>
> Well, I already did, but now I have to do it again.... ;-)
>
> Matt
>
> do not archive
>
>> --------------
>>
>> Matt, why don't you delete this from the archives.
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:13 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>>
>>
>> John, give me a call at xxx-xxx-xxxx.
>> Tim
>> --------------
>
Message 16
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Brilliant !, Thanks a lot. and I was going to go to sleep
, back to the shop to drive some more rivets!
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>
> Ooops, I think my original post was a typo....the real number
> should be 867-5309....ask for Jenny. ;) (now, try getting
> that song out of your head)
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>> Too late, I already gave the number to the phone solicitors as a better
>> contact number ;)
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 5:35 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>>
>>
>>
>> Well, I already did, but now I have to do it again.... ;-)
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>> --------------
>>>
>>> Matt, why don't you delete this from the archives.
>>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:13 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>>>
>>>
>>> John, give me a call at xxx-xxx-xxxx.
>>> Tim
>>> --------------
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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HEY!!
That's my Number!!
"Ricky"
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2007 9:11:23 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
Ooops, I think my original post was a typo....the real number
should be 867-5309....ask for Jenny. ;) (now, try getting
that song out of your head)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Too late, I already gave the number to the phone solicitors as a better
> contact number ;)
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 5:35 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>
>
>
> Well, I already did, but now I have to do it again.... ;-)
>
> Matt
>
> do not archive
>
>> --------------
>>
>> Matt, why don't you delete this from the archives.
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 3:13 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tim Olson
>>
>>
>> John, give me a call at xxx-xxx-xxxx.
>> Tim
>> --------------
>
Message 18
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Subject: | cowl fitting tips. |
Bummer, that's not a pretty thing to look forward to now. Just wondering
what caused that since it would look like 2.25 from the flywheel would be
the right spacing based on the plans as well as the instructions. Probably
should have waited but it's a little late now ;-( . I wonder if Vans might
not have understood that I was going CS and sent the instructions for a FP.
I really never thought about the hub spacing being different. Dumb!
Based on your comments though, I probably should have at least gone out to a
friends plane and verified the spacing instead of just going by the
instructions and assuming......
Thanks for the wake up
Bill S
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 8:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Just FYI, we used the Van's recommended spacer to set the cowl on my buddy's
RV-7 as we did not have the prop.... When we went to install the prop, the
prop backplate had over 1/8'' hard interference with the cowl. We had to
take almost 1/4'' off the back of the cowl. Sounds easy, but the cowl
tapers forward and the pins became infinitely harder to install and the
stress on the side hinges went up dramatically. Not to mention the fit was
not nearly as nice as it was.
My recommendation would be to have the prop and spinner, or the exact hub
and spinner when setting the cowl....
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: 11/05/07 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really
necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a
spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of
3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers ;-) to make it
exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and
sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop
Message 19
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Subject: | cowl fitting tips. |
Stopped by and talked to Gus at Van's today about mounting the cowl without
a prop. He referred me to the bulletin that Bill mentioned http://www.vans
aircraft.com/pdf/Prop_Cowl.pdf and said it will work on any RV including th
e RV10. When asked about the constant speed prop versus fix he said the cow
l is in the same position for both props this allow people to switch to eit
her prop without having to change the cowl (obviously not an option or issu
e on the 10.)
So are the 2.25" spacer correct for a RV10? That is the question.
Can someone who has a Hartzell prop and spinner mounted, accurately measure
between the back side of the S 602-1 spinner back plate and the front face
of the flywheel? Preferably without the doubler thickness being included.
Armed with this information it should be possible to mount the cowl without
a prop. However, using a non-airworthy hub would be a good option as well.
All bets are off if using other than a Hartzell prop.
As a note: the RV10 spinner back plate does look just like the RV 7's. It h
as the six hole in the center that line up with the prop bolts hole. In th
e plans this center section is cut out by the builder to fit around the con
stant speed hub before assembly.
Thanks for all the input,
Vern (#324)
> From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject
: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips. > Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 21:33:50 -0600>
global.net>> > Bummer, that's not a pretty thing to look forward to now. Ju
st wondering> what caused that since it would look like 2.25 from the flywh
eel would be> the right spacing based on the plans as well as the instructi
ons. Probably> should have waited but it's a little late now ;-( . I wonder
if Vans might> not have understood that I was going CS and sent the instru
ctions for a FP.> I really never thought about the hub spacing being differ
ent. Dumb!> > Based on your comments though, I probably should have at leas
t gone out to a> friends plane and verified the spacing instead of just goi
ng by the> instructions and assuming...... > > Thanks for the wake up> Bill
S
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
Message 20
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Subject: | cowl fitting tips. |
hey Jessie,
are you suggesting not to drill the front plate to the spinner cone?
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Remember not to drill the spinner front plate that you already have
installed in the hub. The orientation of the cylinder on the front of the
hub may not be the same on all props.
Nice-looking plenum, but how does the air get in there? :-)
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Steven DiNieri [mailto:capsteve@adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
here's a quick pic of the prop hub i acquired from a prop shop for 40 bucks
shipped. its unairworthy of coarse and he needed to be convinced i wasn't
going to try and fly behind it. DUH.. i figured when i was done I'd release
it into RV land and let rv10 builders pass it on...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same
way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the
bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read
the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow
and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an
email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
_____
From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really
necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a
spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of
3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers ;-) to make it
exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and
sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop
spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who
knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close,
fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be
glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually
said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to
get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
_____
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"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 21
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Still working on getting oil temp down but a friend told me that the screen
on the SCAT tube at the back baffle heading down to the oil cooler might
impede the airflow a bit so I cut it out to see. Gives me about 8 or so
degrees I think. Now I'm going to look at that area a bit more.
For what it's worth went up this morning to see what removing the screen
would do and collected these numbers in cruise:
OAT 72, 3500', MAP 23", RPM 2300, oil 231F, GPH 16.8, 155kt. I better get
those wheel pants on too see what the top speed will be. Climb out from Yuma
(180' MSL) was 2200 FPM. Wow! Hit pattern altitude at the end of the runway.
Keep building.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 22
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Subject: | cowl fitting tips. |
Wow, I have to tell you that sure makes me feel better now because I was not
looking forward to refitting the cowl. Vern, thanks for getting the full
scoop and passing it on.
Bill S
7a Ark
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 10:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Stopped by and talked to Gus at Van's today about mounting the cowl without
a prop. He referred me to the bulletin that Bill mentioned
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Prop_Cowl.pdf and said it will work on any
RV including the RV10. When asked about the constant speed prop versus fix
he said the cowl is in the same position for both props this allow people to
switch to either prop without having to change the cowl (obviously not an
option or issue on the 10.)
So are the 2.25" spacer correct for a RV10? That is the question.
Can someone who has a Hartzell prop and spinner mounted, accurately measure
between the back side of the S 602-1 spinner back plate and the front face
of the flywheel? Preferably without the doubler thickness being included.
Armed with this information it should be possible to mount the cowl without
a prop. However, using a non-airworthy hub would be a good option as well.
All bets are off if using other than a Hartzell prop.
As a note: the RV10 spinner back plate does look just like the RV 7's. It
has the six hole in the center that line up with the prop bolts hole. In
the plans this center section is cut out by the builder to fit around the
constant speed hub before assembly.
Thanks for all the input,
Vern (#324)
_____
> From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
> Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 21:33:50 -0600
>
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Bummer, that's not a pretty thing to look forward to now. Just wondering
> what caused that since it would look like 2.25 from the flywheel would be
> the right spacing based on the plans as well as the instructions. Probably
> should have waited but it's a little late now ;-( . I wonder if Vans might
> not have understood that I was going CS and sent the instructions for a
FP.
> I really never thought about the hub spacing being different. Dumb!
>
> Based on your comments though, I probably should have at least gone out to
a
> friends plane and verified the spacing instead of just going by the
> instructions and assuming......
>
> Thanks for the wake up
> Bill S
_____
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try
Wiase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now!
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Subject: | Re: Stuffed hole help |
Ouch - I think the heli-coil insert would be #1 as Tim suggested
Might look for some high temp epoxy as a reinforcement. But that would make it
a one way repair. removal then would be impossible except with a bridge plate.
Locktite does not seem to have the lower viscosity taht you need
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/uggg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144297#144297
Message 24
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Subject: | Fiberglass/plexiglass cabin top window purgatory |
I am about 80% done with the doors and cabin top ---- and have not attached my
cabin top yet.
I debated this question for weeks before taking the leap. After looking at all
the stuff on the matronics site, I decided to go ahead with the Weld-on for my
windows. I also decided that using this awful stuff in a vertical environment
is tooo difficult. I removed the cabin top and decided to install both of the
rear windows with the cabin top flat for each window. In other words, I laid
the cabin top over about 70 degrees to install each rear window giving good access
above and under.
I have installed the first window. The results are mediocre. I did the installation
at about 60 degrees Farenheit. The weld on goes off (solidifys) very quickly.
There were no bubbles, but the weld on captured a lot of the 3M fineline
masking tape (blue) inside the window so that it can be seen from the outside.
For those of you getting to windows, read all of the instructions VERY carefully.
Tim's excellent suggestion of using your finger to thin the rims of weld-on
inside are really important. My error was sticking with the popsicle stics.
The radius is tooooo small you need to thin the filet out with your finger so
that you do not capture the masking tape. Also start removing the masking tape
almost as soon as the window is in position.
Any suggestions for removing or at least mitigating the effect of the weld-on captured
blue plastic 3M tape
I am still convinced that (even having to protect the window for the next 5-6 months)
I made the right choice. Also , I can install the interior cabin top stuff
in a less difficult situation for my aging old back.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/uggg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144301#144301
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: High Oil Temp |
It might be a pricey remedy, but how about Alex's higher capacity oil cooler?
Especially in the Central and souther tier of the country it might not be bad
to add 20% to the cooling capacity of the oil cooler
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/uggg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144302#144302
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