Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Patrick ONeill)
2. 04:11 AM - Re: Part F-1054 (Jesse Saint)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Eric_Kallio)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
5. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Tim Olson)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Tim Olson)
7. 07:32 AM - Re: Part F-1054 (John Gonzalez)
8. 07:48 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Jesse Saint)
9. 08:10 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
10. 08:47 AM - Removal of fuel tank access panel (John Gonzalez)
11. 10:15 AM - Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (n277dl)
12. 11:29 AM - Re: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (John Gonzalez)
13. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (James Hein)
14. 12:34 PM - (Rob Hunter)
15. 12:53 PM - Re: Fuselage Crate in Pickup Truck (James Hein)
16. 01:18 PM - Re: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (Ben Westfall)
17. 02:56 PM - Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips (AirMike)
18. 03:32 PM - Re: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (Kelly McMullen)
19. 03:52 PM - Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips (Jay Rowe)
20. 04:01 PM - Fan Belt (Rene Felker)
21. 04:05 PM - Re: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Les Kearney)
22. 04:16 PM - Re: Fan Belt (bcondrey)
23. 04:34 PM - Re: Fan Belt (Scott Schmidt)
24. 04:43 PM - Re: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (pilotdds@aol.com)
25. 04:57 PM - Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips (Michael Schipper)
26. 05:01 PM - Re: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Les Kearney)
27. 06:01 PM - Re: Aftermarket brake lines (gary)
28. 07:29 PM - Re: Re: Aftermarket brake lines ()
29. 07:32 PM - Re: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (John W. Cox)
30. 07:38 PM - Re: Fan Belt (Rene)
31. 07:55 PM - Re: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (John W. Cox)
32. 08:01 PM - Re: Aftermarket brake lines (Tim Olson)
33. 08:25 PM - Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel (n277dl)
34. 08:29 PM - fuel tank access panel, updated! (John Gonzalez)
35. 08:42 PM - Re: fuel tank access panel, updated! (Marcus Cooper)
36. 08:46 PM - Re: Fuselage Crate in Pickup Truck (Albert Gardner)
37. 09:03 PM - Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips (Perry Casson - Home)
38. 09:41 PM - Re: fuel tank access panel, updated! (Rick Sked)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 2
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Page 44-3 (Wing Attach section).
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 12:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Part F-1054
There are only a few parts remaining in my box and this is one of them. This
appears to be a rt and lf part to be cut into two. It is listed as a Tank
Attach Angle, but I can not find it in the plans. Does anyone have a
recollection of this?
Thanks,
John G. 409
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
I just bought one last week to see how it worked myself. It is a simple shelf that
looks to be plenty sturdy. It comes with a rib that mounts to one of the floor
stiffeners meaning you have to drill out 9 rivets. The tray then mounts to
that rib and the bell crank platform aft of the battery. It has match drilled
nutplate attach holes for the GRT and Garmin AHRS, but it can easily be modified
to fit others. I hope to get some time in the shop this week and get it installed.
When I get it done I will post a picture for you and see if I can get
the instructions scanned.
Eric Kallio
40518 Floors and fuel system
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145336#145336
Message 4
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| Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
<<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
<<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
<<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to
Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the
feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl
back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the
Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic
interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified
installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web
store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships
from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe
PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
With the plans that come with it, how far away from the battery and
any servos does it place the AHRS. You'd want to put as much
distance between as possible, trying to get at least
20". Just wondered what the plans spec.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I just bought one last week to see how it worked myself. It is a
> simple shelf that looks to be plenty sturdy. It comes with a rib that
> mounts to one of the floor stiffeners meaning you have to drill out 9
> rivets. The tray then mounts to that rib and the bell crank platform
> aft of the battery. It has match drilled nutplate attach holes for
> the GRT and Garmin AHRS, but it can easily be modified to fit others.
> I hope to get some time in the shop this week and get it installed.
> When I get it done I will post a picture for you and see if I can get
> the instructions scanned.
>
> Eric Kallio 40518 Floors and fuel system
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145336#145336
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Ah, you answered my question....so, this bracket is truly an AHRS
bracket, not intended for use with magnetometers, so for some
AHRS such as the Crossbow, this would not necessarily be in a
good area, but if you use a pinpoint, or a GRT, or G900, it would
probably work fine for the AHRS itself. That makes sense. It seemed
too close to magnetics for a magnetometer.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> <<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
> <<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
> <<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
> I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
> testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to
> Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the
> feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
> By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
> makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl
> back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the
> Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic
> interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified
> installations.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> N519RV
>
Message 7
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Thanks,
"
Do not archive
>From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Part F-1054
>Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 07:10:06 -0500
>
>
>Page 44-3 (Wing Attach section).
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jesse Saint
>Saint Aviation, Inc.
>jesse@saintaviation.com
>www.saintaviation.com
>Cell: 352-427-0285
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
>Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 12:24 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Part F-1054
>
>
>There are only a few parts remaining in my box and this is one of them.
>This
>
>appears to be a rt and lf part to be cut into two. It is listed as a Tank
>Attach Angle, but I can not find it in the plans. Does anyone have a
>recollection of this?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John G. 409
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Very nice. Are you also going to be working with Garmin and Van's on a
magnetometer mount?
BTW, does anybody know if Van's is still shipping the kits with the TruTrak
Pitch Servo mount that is for the old servo, not the one with the torque
enhancer? There are a TON of those brackets in the trash around the world
right now, I think.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 9:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
<<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
<<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to
Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the
feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl
back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the
Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic
interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified
installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web
store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships
from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe
PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 9
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| Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Yes, I am still working with Garmin on the Magnometer mounting
bracket, but this is one which Garmin will be producing. He had on made
for the aft deck, but with the cables for the elevator trim in there and
my ELT and was OK for Static Error but the Dynamic error (moving things
like Elevator, Trim, Lights on, etc) is where it was out of tolerance.
We are still working on it.
Attached is a picture of one location we tested, but will not
work. The round piece is the Garmin Compass module.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Very nice. Are you also going to be working with Garmin and Van's on a
magnetometer mount?
BTW, does anybody know if Van's is still shipping the kits with the
TruTrak
Pitch Servo mount that is for the old servo, not the one with the torque
enhancer? There are a TON of those brackets in the trash around the
world
right now, I think.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 9:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
<<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
<<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to
Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the
feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl
back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the
Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic
interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified
installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web
store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships
from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe
PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 10
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| Subject: | Removal of fuel tank access panel |
Has anyone on one of their RVs had to remove a fuel tank access panel(the
ones Van's sells, The twelve screw hole, thick plate). I placed mine on with
a proseal and I am considering removal. but I think due to the tight fit and
the proseal acting as a very strong adhesive, and due to the limited access,
it might be a lot of trouble getting the plate off.
Someone suggested using a heat gun to loosen the proseal but, that did not
appear to do anything on a test piece of proseal and it would affect the
proseal that is beneath the structural reinforcing plate around the opening.
Ideas?
Thanks,
John G. 409
Do Not Archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
John,
I've taken the plate of off the -7A that was prosealed on (actually have done
this a couple times). Ended up not being a big deal. Just take the screws out
(I used some allen head screws which made taking them out much easier on the
7) and use a putty knife or something similar to get started. Once it starts
just work around the edge prying a little and the proseal will turn loose.
Doug.... riveting the tailcone together.... soon will be waiting on QB Fuse and
wings.
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145440#145440
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
Thanks for the heads up.
I bought some exacto blades shaped likes a chisel head, but still leaves the
access between the skin flanges and the tank attachment angles a slight
issue with the blade handle.
Hopefully it will be easier than my mind is imagining it.
John
Do Not Archive
>From: "n277dl" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel
>Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:14:10 -0800
>
>
>John,
> I've taken the plate of off the -7A that was prosealed on (actually have
>done this a couple times). Ended up not being a big deal. Just take the
>screws out (I used some allen head screws which made taking them out much
>easier on the 7) and use a putty knife or something similar to get started.
> Once it starts just work around the edge prying a little and the proseal
>will turn loose.
>
>Doug.... riveting the tailcone together.... soon will be waiting on QB
>Fuse and wings.
>
>--------
>Doug
>RV7A flying ~500hrs
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145440#145440
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
Use a PLASTIC putty knife... works well, doesn't carve out aluminum!
Also, it will avoid the wrath of J.C.
-Jim 40384
n277dl wrote:
>
>John,
> I've taken the plate of off the -7A that was prosealed on (actually have done
this a couple times). Ended up not being a big deal. Just take the screws
out (I used some allen head screws which made taking them out much easier on the
7) and use a putty knife or something similar to get started. Once it starts
just work around the edge prying a little and the proseal will turn loose.
>
>Doug.... riveting the tailcone together.... soon will be waiting on QB Fuse and
wings.
>
>--------
>Doug
>RV7A flying ~500hrs
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145440#145440
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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HI! I have to pickup my standard fuselage later today and wonder how
many people it would take to get out of the back of a pickup truck? Any
other suggestions?
Rob Hunter
40432
Flaps
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Crate in Pickup Truck |
It only takes one person.... Take the end of the crate off while still
on the truck and start removing materials until its empty, then just
slide the crate off the truck and start breaking it down.
The crate is 8'2" long... the bed of my truck was 8'
That's how I did it:
-Jim 40384
Rob Hunter wrote:
>
>
>HI! I have to pickup my standard fuselage later today and wonder how
>many people it would take to get out of the back of a pickup truck? Any
>other suggestions?
>
>Rob Hunter
>40432
>Flaps
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
Just a reminder... anyone removing proseal should use extreme caution to
avoid scratching the underlying aluminum. Use plastic tools.
I am always somewhat paranoid of scratches as I had an elevator spar on my
Cessna 152 crack do to a scratch. Good thing my A&P noticed a small bit of
flex in the elevator hinge points on an annual and wouldn't let it slide. I
can imagine elevator spar failure in flight will ruin your day and probably
those below you as well.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel
Thanks for the heads up.
I bought some exacto blades shaped likes a chisel head, but still leaves the
access between the skin flanges and the tank attachment angles a slight
issue with the blade handle.
Hopefully it will be easier than my mind is imagining it.
John
Do Not Archive
>From: "n277dl" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel
>Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 10:14:10 -0800
>
>
>John,
> I've taken the plate of off the -7A that was prosealed on (actually have
>done this a couple times). Ended up not being a big deal. Just take the
>screws out (I used some allen head screws which made taking them out much
>easier on the 7) and use a putty knife or something similar to get started.
> Once it starts just work around the edge prying a little and the proseal
>will turn loose.
>
>Doug.... riveting the tailcone together.... soon will be waiting on QB
>Fuse and wings.
>
>--------
>Doug
>RV7A flying ~500hrs
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145440#145440
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips |
I am violating my few/no-mod rule here. I want to install the neat flush fitting
Hartwell clips on the oil door.
Questions:
Do I need one or two of these Hartwell H-5000-2 clips? Is one enough to keep the
oil door in place with the back-pressure of the air. I was thinking of adding
an aluminum stiffener plate.
Also (to anyone on their final installation or in the air) is there at least 1"
of clearance in this area to let the clips rotate
I really must admit that I like the completely flush fit of the cowel with no protrusions
using the Hartwell clips
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145514#145514
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
You might also consider using the non-hardening version of PRC for
resealing the access panel. That is what Mooney specifies for their
access panels.
Do Not Archive
James Hein wrote:
>
> Use a PLASTIC putty knife... works well, doesn't carve out aluminum!
>
> Also, it will avoid the wrath of J.C.
>
> -Jim 40384
>
> n277dl wrote:
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips |
Mike: I used two of the Hartwell clips (Wick's at about $10/each) but
also added two layers of eglass to the back side of the door to stiffen plus
added a little epoxy around the clip flanges fro strength. The only thing I
don't like is that I had to recess the clips about 1/8" below the surface of
the doors so that the clips would engage the cowling. Clearance is not a
problem (fuel injected and one side Lightspeed). Jay Rowe #40301 (finishing
the very baffling baffling).
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips
>
> I am violating my few/no-mod rule here. I want to install the neat flush
fitting Hartwell clips on the oil door.
>
> Questions:
>
> Do I need one or two of these Hartwell H-5000-2 clips? Is one enough to
keep the oil door in place with the back-pressure of the air. I was thinking
of adding an aluminum stiffener plate.
>
> Also (to anyone on their final installation or in the air) is there at
least 1" of clearance in this area to let the clips rotate
>
> I really must admit that I like the completely flush fit of the cowel
with no protrusions using the Hartwell clips
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145514#145514
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
11/11/2007 9:50 PM
>
>
Message 20
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Anybody have a part number for the fan belt handy....at work with no data.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Hi Tim
I have been reading this thread with interest as I am starting to look ahead
to my avionics suite. I plan, at this point to install a Blue Mountain EFIS
2 with an EFIS lite as a backup. Looking at the documentation, they suggest
that the magnometer be at least 24 inches away from any ferrous material
(bolts cables etc). They suggest placing it in either the tail cone or the
wing.
Looking at the trail cone, would it not make sense to mount the magnometer
on a bracket attached to one of the bulkheads?
A related question; where have you and others been mounting you GPS
antennas? I was wondering if locating the antenna somewhere on the top of
the canopy (on the inside) was practical.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
40643 Frustrated in the fuse..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: November-12-07 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
With the plans that come with it, how far away from the battery and
any servos does it place the AHRS. You'd want to put as much
distance between as possible, trying to get at least
20". Just wondered what the plans spec.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I just bought one last week to see how it worked myself. It is a
> simple shelf that looks to be plenty sturdy. It comes with a rib that
> mounts to one of the floor stiffeners meaning you have to drill out 9
> rivets. The tray then mounts to that rib and the bell crank platform
> aft of the battery. It has match drilled nutplate attach holes for
> the GRT and Garmin AHRS, but it can easily be modified to fit others.
> I hope to get some time in the shop this week and get it installed.
> When I get it done I will post a picture for you and see if I can get
> the instructions scanned.
>
> Eric Kallio 40518 Floors and fuel system
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145336#145336
>
Message 22
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Gates 7365.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145533#145533
Message 23
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You mean the alternator belt?
http://www.scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/518426#23756146
Part Number 7365
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Rene Felker <rene@felker.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 4:59:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fan Belt
Anybody have a part number for the fan belt handy....at work with no
data.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
GPS ant on the glare shield has worked flawlessly for my 430.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 4:01 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Hi Tim
I have been reading this thread with interest as I am starting to look ahead
to my avionics suite. I plan, at this point to install a Blue Mountain EFIS
2 with an EFIS lite as a backup. Looking at the documentation, they suggest
that the magnometer be at least 24 inches away from any ferrous material
(bolts cables etc). They suggest placing it in either the tail cone or the
wing.
Looking at the trail cone, would it not make sense to mount the magnometer
on a bracket attached to one of the bulkheads?
A related question; where have you and others been mounting you GPS
antennas? I was wondering if locating the antenna somewhere on the top of
the canopy (on the inside) was practical.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
40643 Frustrated in the fuse..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: November-12-07 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
With the plans that come with it, how far away from the battery and
any servos does it place the AHRS. You'd want to put as much
distance between as possible, trying to get at least
20". Just wondered what the plans spec.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I just bought one last week to see how it worked myself. It is a
> simple shelf that looks to be plenty sturdy. It comes with a rib that
> mounts to one of the floor stiffeners meaning you have to drill out 9
> rivets. The tray then mounts to that rib and the bell crank platform
> aft of the battery. It has match drilled nutplate attach holes for
> the GRT and Garmin AHRS, but it can easily be modified to fit others.
> I hope to get some time in the shop this week and get it installed.
> When I get it done I will post a picture for you and see if I can get
> the instructions scanned.
>
> Eric Kallio 40518 Floors and fuel system
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145336#145336
>
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips |
I used two of them on my -9A and it seemed like a little overkill, but
I think it's good insurance. As far as the recess is concerned, it
depends on which Hartwell latch you buy. They come in different
flavors. I learned this after ordering (and reordering) several sets
from Spruce and Wicks. I found a set at AirVenture this year that have
the top of the latch protruding about 1/16" and the catch (for lack of
a better term) is extra deep. These should work out perfectly.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
#576 - Fuse - www.rvten.com
On Nov 12, 2007, at 5:50 PM, Jay Rowe wrote:
> Mike: I used two of the Hartwell clips (Wick's at about $10/each)
> but also added two layers of eglass to the back side of the door to
> stiffen plus added a little epoxy around the clip flanges fro
> strength. The only thing I don't like is that I had to recess the
> clips about 1/8" below the surface of the doors so that the clips
> would engage the cowling. Clearance is not a problem (fuel injected
> and one side Lightspeed). Jay Rowe #40301 (finishing the very
> baffling baffling).
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 5:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips
>
>
> >
> > I am violating my few/no-mod rule here. I want to install the neat
> flush fitting Hartwell clips on the oil door.
> >
> > Questions:
> >
> > Do I need one or two of these Hartwell H-5000-2 clips? Is one
> enough to keep the oil door in place with the back-pressure of the
> air. I was thinking of adding an aluminum stiffener plate.
> >
> > Also (to anyone on their final installation or in the air) is
> there at least 1" of clearance in this area to let the clips rotate
> >
> > I really must admit that I like the completely flush fit of the
> cowel with no protrusions using the Hartwell clips
> >
> > --------
> > OSH '08 or Bust
> > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145514#145514
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- 11/11/2007 9:50 PM
> >
> >
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Tim et al
Reading my post I realized I left out one key point. When mounting on the
bulkhead, I was wondering if it should be mounted high on the bulkhead near
the top skin (as opposed to on the floor).
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: November-12-07 5:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Hi Tim
I have been reading this thread with interest as I am starting to look ahead
to my avionics suite. I plan, at this point to install a Blue Mountain EFIS
2 with an EFIS lite as a backup. Looking at the documentation, they suggest
that the magnometer be at least 24 inches away from any ferrous material
(bolts cables etc). They suggest placing it in either the tail cone or the
wing.
Looking at the trail cone, would it not make sense to mount the magnometer
on a bracket attached to one of the bulkheads?
A related question; where have you and others been mounting you GPS
antennas? I was wondering if locating the antenna somewhere on the top of
the canopy (on the inside) was practical.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
40643 Frustrated in the fuse..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: November-12-07 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
With the plans that come with it, how far away from the battery and
any servos does it place the AHRS. You'd want to put as much
distance between as possible, trying to get at least
20". Just wondered what the plans spec.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I just bought one last week to see how it worked myself. It is a
> simple shelf that looks to be plenty sturdy. It comes with a rib that
> mounts to one of the floor stiffeners meaning you have to drill out 9
> rivets. The tray then mounts to that rib and the bell crank platform
> aft of the battery. It has match drilled nutplate attach holes for
> the GRT and Garmin AHRS, but it can easily be modified to fit others.
> I hope to get some time in the shop this week and get it installed.
> When I get it done I will post a picture for you and see if I can get
> the instructions scanned.
>
> Eric Kallio 40518 Floors and fuel system
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145336#145336
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Aftermarket brake lines |
Just for the sake of knowledge. My 1969 Cessna has solid break lines like
Van's. It is still in service after 3500 hours. Just so folks know.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 1:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aftermarket brake lines
Hey all -
Had minor surgery a few days ago, and I'm stuck resting at home. can't
really build, but I'm home from work. it's kind of like my own personal
hell. I'm slowly going crazy, and it's only been a couple days. I figured
i'd do brake lines, as that seems to be less strenuous than sanding
fiberglass. I went different from the factory setup, and thought i'd share
my findings. i've also completely re-done my website for no good reason
other than that I've been bored. if you had any bookmarks, they probably
don't work anymore. sorry. anyway, the brakeline writeup is here:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Aftermarket_Brake
_Lines.html
cj
building an airplane - not sure what section anymore...
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket brake lines |
>From: gary <speckter@comcast.net>
>Date: 2007/11/08 Thu PM 02:43:04 CST
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aftermarket brake lines
>
>Just for the sake of knowledge. My 1969 Cessna has solid break lines like
>Van's. It is still in service after 3500 hours. Just so folks know.
>
>Gary
>40274
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
>Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 1:34 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Aftermarket brake lines
>
>Hey all -
>
>Had minor surgery a few days ago, and I'm stuck resting at home. can't
>really build, but I'm home from work. it's kind of like my own personal
>hell. I'm slowly going crazy, and it's only been a couple days. I figured
>i'd do brake lines, as that seems to be less strenuous than sanding
>fiberglass. I went different from the factory setup, and thought i'd share
>my findings. i've also completely re-done my website for no good reason
>other than that I've been bored. if you had any bookmarks, they probably
>don't work anymore. sorry. anyway, the brakeline writeup is here:
>
>http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Aftermarket_Brake
>_Lines.html
>
>cj
>building an airplane - not sure what section anymore...
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
Use of a metal putty knife is a "Termination Offence" at work (Spelling
is Canadian cause the planes are designed by French Canadians. The
damage inflicted on aluminum skin quickly exceeds the 10 to 15% damage
depth permitted to be blended smooth after scrapping. Plastic scrappers
are given out by the dozens.
We remove easily 100 panels per night using fiberglass reinforced
plastic scrapers. Teams of guys "Lay to" the process to get at the
goodies needing fixing below the covers.
Skin knives are contraband yet some have them hidden to use leverage
after the perimeter seal is broken with plastic scrapers. Boeing
surplus and Ebay have been a source of all things connected with
sealant.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel
John,
I've taken the plate of off the -7A that was prosealed on (actually
have done this a couple times). Ended up not being a big deal. Just
take the screws out (I used some allen head screws which made taking
them out much easier on the 7) and use a putty knife or something
similar to get started. Once it starts just work around the edge prying
a little and the proseal will turn loose.
Doug.... riveting the tailcone together.... soon will be waiting on QB
Fuse and wings.
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145440#145440
Message 30
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|
Thanks Scott and Bob for the quick answer. Was able to pick one up on the
way to the Airport.
Do Not Archive
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fan Belt
You mean the alternator belt?
http://www.scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/518426#23756146
Part Number 7365
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Rene Felker <rene@felker.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 4:59:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fan Belt
Anybody have a part number for the fan belt handy....at work with no
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
"The Tree of Life is Self Pruning". (No disrespect intended).
If a builder is not aware of why aluminum edges and drilled rivet holes
need deburring, then why the use of a metal scraper can condemn the skin
to replacement is a waste of words. Of the 800 RV-10 builders, at least
100 must be using primitive tools from their woodworking days. Leave it
to an RV-7A builder to turn on the light to this age old problem. Why
not just use a screwdriver and hammer and get it over with. And James,
I did not shout.
Be diligent, Build Safe, Fly Often, Fly Safe, Live long.
Off to work with my plastic scrapers in hand.
John C.
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel
Use a PLASTIC putty knife... works well, doesn't carve out aluminum!
Also, it will avoid the wrath of J.C.
-Jim 40384
n277dl wrote:
>
>John,
> I've taken the plate of off the -7A that was prosealed on (actually
have done this a couple times). Ended up not being a big deal. Just
take the screws out (I used some allen head screws which made taking
them out much easier on the 7) and use a putty knife or something
similar to get started. Once it starts just work around the edge prying
a little and the proseal will turn loose.
>
>Doug.... riveting the tailcone together.... soon will be waiting on QB
Fuse and wings.
>
>--------
>Doug
>RV7A flying ~500hrs
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145440#145440
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket brake lines |
When installing my brake lines I had heard of a couple of RV's having
failures in the twist around the axle area. It flexes a lot over time,
being just a rod of metal, and there have been some that cracked
through.
With this in mind, I installed braided stainless teflon lines for the
lower couple of feet on the gear legs. I would have went flex all
the way, but at the time I wanted it done right way without ordering
lines, and I figured it would be easier to just splice in the required
amount of solid tubing to make the remainder of the run from the flex.
They've worked very well for over 300 hours, and no issues.
Recently I know of one RV-10 that cracked through their line up at
the top of the gear leg, and almost broke the line in two, and had
a brake failure. This prompted that builder to recommend going flex
the entire way. I was also made aware of an RV-10 that was found to
have the solid tubing line rubbing on a bolt head down by the wheel
and it had rubbed almost 100% through the tubing sidewall.
This prompted me to finally go buy chafe sleeved stainless braided
teflon tubing lines to go from fuselage to brake caliper, which I'll
be installing when I go to balance my tires very soon. I bought -3
sized lines, with -4 sized fittings, and paid under $25 or $30 each
for them. So far I'm thrilled with the flex lines on both the fuel
and the brakes. I just can't wait to get rid of the rest of the
hard tubing on the top end of the axle. The legs on this plane
flex enough that I'd much rather not have work-hardened AL tubing
on those flex areas.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
jhstarn@verizon.net wrote:
>
>> From: gary <speckter@comcast.net>
>> Date: 2007/11/08 Thu PM 02:43:04 CST
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aftermarket brake lines
>
>>
>> Just for the sake of knowledge. My 1969 Cessna has solid break lines like
>> Van's. It is still in service after 3500 hours. Just so folks know.
>>
>> Gary
>> 40274
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
>> Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 1:34 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Aftermarket brake lines
>>
>> Hey all -
>>
>> Had minor surgery a few days ago, and I'm stuck resting at home. can't
>> really build, but I'm home from work. it's kind of like my own personal
>> hell. I'm slowly going crazy, and it's only been a couple days. I figured
>> i'd do brake lines, as that seems to be less strenuous than sanding
>> fiberglass. I went different from the factory setup, and thought i'd share
>> my findings. i've also completely re-done my website for no good reason
>> other than that I've been bored. if you had any bookmarks, they probably
>> don't work anymore. sorry. anyway, the brakeline writeup is here:
>>
>> http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Aftermarket_Brake
>> _Lines.html
>>
>> cj
>> building an airplane - not sure what section anymore...
>> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of fuel tank access panel |
John,
Thanks for reminding me why not to post to these boards. I do certainly appreciate
your wisdom in correcting the errors of my ways as I don't desire to steer
anyone wrong.
Doug
RV-7A flyer and -10 builder
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145578#145578
Message 34
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| Subject: | fuel tank access panel, updated! |
I took the suggestion of those that responded to my post and have found
unfortunetly all the things I have been contemplating, worrying about over
the last few weeks are true...The panel will not budge!!!!!!!!!
Just for the record, in the original placement, I did not use the cork
gasket in addition to the proseal.
I roughened up the aluminum with a scotch brite pad or 220 sand paper. I
tightened down the plate with the screws, there is no room for a metal
instrument let alone a fiber feinforced instrument.
Tonight I attempted removal with an exacto blade to start, then a chisel(at
the edge only) and obviously a plastic instrument which is no way stong
enough to do anything. I didn't even get an edge lifted.
I do understand why holes need to be deburred and why scratches lead to a
failure in a piece of aluminum which is under force. With that said, let's
move forward>>>>>
The bond is so strong that it is like to pieces of glass put together with a
thin film of water. We don't have the luxury of sliding the surfaces apart.
If I really work at this I am sure I am going to destroy my tank. The entire
rear wall of the tank flexs.
Here is why I am trying to open the tank:
Three weeks ago I closed the tanks. One weekend prior I riveted the
nutplates to the tank and stiffner. I hadn't realized that one of my
nutplates never got riveted,(couldn't find my dental mouth mirror and my
head is not small enough to stick down in the hole). I even cleaned the
proseal from the holes and didn't realize its absense. The week later in a
rush before a doctor's appointment, I closed the tanks with the access plate
and proseal. After placing the plate with the proseal and getting half the
screws in one of the screws did not bite into anything(The missing
nutplate). I didn't have time disassemble and to clean everything before
leaving for my doctors appointment which would take me away form the project
for atleast three hours. I just continued to close everything up and really
coated the problem screw.
So for three weeks I have been studying this situation, the tanks have been
leak tested and passed. The screw with out the nutplate was sealed in with
sealant through the hole and around and over the top of the screw head. The
access plate top surface around the area of the screw was sanded and the
bond to the proseal was exceptional. The screw in question was not the top
screw but the next to the top when the tank is in the normal flying
position. If for some reason it failed or leaked, fell out, it would not
drain the tank. Remember, the tanks are not under pressure, but the sloshing
of fuel might create a flex in the rear wall, but doughtful with the baffle
ribs and the tank access panel being 1/8th inch thick.
This was never in my opinion a strength issue, the stiffner plate was strong
enough, there are 11 of the twelve screws in place at one inch intervals and
the stiffner plate was independently riveted and also prosealed. Then the
access plate is 1/8 inch aluminum bonded with proseal, as we learned
tonight, appears to be bullet proof when surfaces are roughened up.
Where am I now? No seal has been broken except the screws. No knicks or
dings, so I will not take myself out of the gene pool by what I have done.
Do I put it back as it was or do I attempt a heat gun(Does anyone know if
this works?) and still posibly deform the rear of the tank.
Do I offer to fly John Cox down to see just how easy this is(or isn't)
Okay John Cox, time to shine on you Crazy Diamond.
Thanks,
Well thought out suggestion please!!!
John G 409
Message 35
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| Subject: | fuel tank access panel, updated! |
John,
In my RV-6 and 7 building days, I remember guys making access panels on
the back of the tank to fix something after closing the tank. You might
want to research the archives on those lists for more info.
This is in the wild idea area, but I wonder if there is a sealed end rivet
like those used on the back of the tank that would fit the hole you have.
Yes you would be short a mounting screw, but that would be better than a
hole just filled with sealant. As I said, just an idea, no guarantees it's
a good one.
Good luck,
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 10:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel tank access panel, updated!
I took the suggestion of those that responded to my post and have found
unfortunetly all the things I have been contemplating, worrying about over
the last few weeks are true...The panel will not budge!!!!!!!!!
Just for the record, in the original placement, I did not use the cork
gasket in addition to the proseal.
I roughened up the aluminum with a scotch brite pad or 220 sand paper. I
tightened down the plate with the screws, there is no room for a metal
instrument let alone a fiber feinforced instrument.
Tonight I attempted removal with an exacto blade to start, then a chisel(at
the edge only) and obviously a plastic instrument which is no way stong
enough to do anything. I didn't even get an edge lifted.
I do understand why holes need to be deburred and why scratches lead to a
failure in a piece of aluminum which is under force. With that said, let's
move forward>>>>>
The bond is so strong that it is like to pieces of glass put together with a
thin film of water. We don't have the luxury of sliding the surfaces apart.
If I really work at this I am sure I am going to destroy my tank. The entire
rear wall of the tank flexs.
Here is why I am trying to open the tank:
Three weeks ago I closed the tanks. One weekend prior I riveted the
nutplates to the tank and stiffner. I hadn't realized that one of my
nutplates never got riveted,(couldn't find my dental mouth mirror and my
head is not small enough to stick down in the hole). I even cleaned the
proseal from the holes and didn't realize its absense. The week later in a
rush before a doctor's appointment, I closed the tanks with the access plate
and proseal. After placing the plate with the proseal and getting half the
screws in one of the screws did not bite into anything(The missing
nutplate). I didn't have time disassemble and to clean everything before
leaving for my doctors appointment which would take me away form the project
for atleast three hours. I just continued to close everything up and really
coated the problem screw.
So for three weeks I have been studying this situation, the tanks have been
leak tested and passed. The screw with out the nutplate was sealed in with
sealant through the hole and around and over the top of the screw head. The
access plate top surface around the area of the screw was sanded and the
bond to the proseal was exceptional. The screw in question was not the top
screw but the next to the top when the tank is in the normal flying
position. If for some reason it failed or leaked, fell out, it would not
drain the tank. Remember, the tanks are not under pressure, but the sloshing
of fuel might create a flex in the rear wall, but doughtful with the baffle
ribs and the tank access panel being 1/8th inch thick.
This was never in my opinion a strength issue, the stiffner plate was strong
enough, there are 11 of the twelve screws in place at one inch intervals and
the stiffner plate was independently riveted and also prosealed. Then the
access plate is 1/8 inch aluminum bonded with proseal, as we learned
tonight, appears to be bullet proof when surfaces are roughened up.
Where am I now? No seal has been broken except the screws. No knicks or
dings, so I will not take myself out of the gene pool by what I have done.
Do I put it back as it was or do I attempt a heat gun(Does anyone know if
this works?) and still posibly deform the rear of the tank.
Do I offer to fly John Cox down to see just how easy this is(or isn't)
Okay John Cox, time to shine on you Crazy Diamond.
Thanks,
Well thought out suggestion please!!!
John G 409
Message 36
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| Subject: | Fuselage Crate in Pickup Truck |
How about Fuse and Wing crate in Pickup Truck!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV flying
Message 37
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| Subject: | Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips |
Do I need one or two of these Hartwell H-5000-2 clips? Is one enough to keep the
oil door in place
with the back-pressure of the air. I was thinking of adding an aluminum stiffener
plate.
Also (to anyone on their final installation or in the air) is there at least 1"
of clearance in this
area to let the clips rotate
[Perry Casson]
I used 2 clips but I suspect one with a stiffener would be OK, No problem with
clearance.
http://casson.2y.net/yappa-ng/index.php?album=%2FRV-10%2F&image=IMG_1062.JPG
Perry Casson C-FMHP 15 hours
Regina, Canada
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank access panel, updated! |
John,
Do you have a high temp heat gun? I use one for heat shrink. The proseal should
soften some by heating up the plate and you should be able to start to slip you
blade in to start working the panel off.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:27:53 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: fuel tank access panel, updated!
I took the suggestion of those that responded to my post and have found
unfortunetly all the things I have been contemplating, worrying about over
the last few weeks are true...The panel will not budge!!!!!!!!!
Just for the record, in the original placement, I did not use the cork
gasket in addition to the proseal.
I roughened up the aluminum with a scotch brite pad or 220 sand paper. I
tightened down the plate with the screws, there is no room for a metal
instrument let alone a fiber feinforced instrument.
Tonight I attempted removal with an exacto blade to start, then a chisel(at
the edge only) and obviously a plastic instrument which is no way stong
enough to do anything. I didn't even get an edge lifted.
I do understand why holes need to be deburred and why scratches lead to a
failure in a piece of aluminum which is under force. With that said, let's
move forward>>>>>
The bond is so strong that it is like to pieces of glass put together with a
thin film of water. We don't have the luxury of sliding the surfaces apart.
If I really work at this I am sure I am going to destroy my tank. The entire
rear wall of the tank flexs.
Here is why I am trying to open the tank:
Three weeks ago I closed the tanks. One weekend prior I riveted the
nutplates to the tank and stiffner. I hadn't realized that one of my
nutplates never got riveted,(couldn't find my dental mouth mirror and my
head is not small enough to stick down in the hole). I even cleaned the
proseal from the holes and didn't realize its absense. The week later in a
rush before a doctor's appointment, I closed the tanks with the access plate
and proseal. After placing the plate with the proseal and getting half the
screws in one of the screws did not bite into anything(The missing
nutplate). I didn't have time disassemble and to clean everything before
leaving for my doctors appointment which would take me away form the project
for atleast three hours. I just continued to close everything up and really
coated the problem screw.
So for three weeks I have been studying this situation, the tanks have been
leak tested and passed. The screw with out the nutplate was sealed in with
sealant through the hole and around and over the top of the screw head. The
access plate top surface around the area of the screw was sanded and the
bond to the proseal was exceptional. The screw in question was not the top
screw but the next to the top when the tank is in the normal flying
position. If for some reason it failed or leaked, fell out, it would not
drain the tank. Remember, the tanks are not under pressure, but the sloshing
of fuel might create a flex in the rear wall, but doughtful with the baffle
ribs and the tank access panel being 1/8th inch thick.
This was never in my opinion a strength issue, the stiffner plate was strong
enough, there are 11 of the twelve screws in place at one inch intervals and
the stiffner plate was independently riveted and also prosealed. Then the
access plate is 1/8 inch aluminum bonded with proseal, as we learned
tonight, appears to be bullet proof when surfaces are roughened up.
Where am I now? No seal has been broken except the screws. No knicks or
dings, so I will not take myself out of the gene pool by what I have done.
Do I put it back as it was or do I attempt a heat gun(Does anyone know if
this works?) and still posibly deform the rear of the tank.
Do I offer to fly John Cox down to see just how easy this is(or isn't)
Okay John Cox, time to shine on you Crazy Diamond.
Thanks,
Well thought out suggestion please!!!
John G 409
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