Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:15 AM - Re: Screws (John Cleary)
2. 03:51 AM - Re: Blue Mountain AVionics (Jesse Saint)
3. 03:53 AM - Re: grounding question (Jesse Saint)
4. 05:19 AM - Re: Trim troubles and mods (gary)
5. 06:20 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Ben Westfall)
6. 06:36 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 06:39 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
8. 08:23 AM - Re: Blue Mountain AVionics (Bill Judge)
9. 09:19 AM - Construction/Restoration (Russell Lassetter)
10. 09:46 AM - Re: Trim troubles and mods (Bill DeRouchey)
11. 10:04 AM - Re: fuel tank access panel, updated! (German Alvarez)
12. 11:03 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Patrick Thyssen)
13. 12:13 PM - Re: Screws (John Dunne)
14. 02:31 PM - Re: Screws (Patrick Pulis)
15. 05:33 PM - Re: Trim troubles and mods (William Curtis)
16. 05:47 PM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Bill DeRouchey)
17. 06:34 PM - Exhaust (Chris and Susie McGough)
18. 08:54 PM - Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD (DejaVu)
19. 09:02 PM - Re: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD (Chris and Susie McGough)
20. 11:32 PM - Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips (AirMike)
21. 11:38 PM - Tech Councelor - when is the right time (AirMike)
Message 1
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John,
The GNS 400 and 500 series use AN577 6-32 screws with 100 degree
countersink.
Cheers,
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, 14 November 2007 9:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Screws
I=92m looking for the screws that you attach the garmin radio racks to
your
framework with.
I think they=92re MS24693BB =91s 6-32=92s maybe?
Any body got some clues on this and whether the countersunk flat head is
82deg or 100deg?
Thanks,
John 40315 (instrument panel)
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
13/11/2007
11:09 AM
13/11/2007
11:09 AM
Message 2
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Subject: | Blue Mountain AVionics |
Yes, everybody has a different budget, but I don't know how to get much
cheaper for a good dependable IFR panel with a decent level of backups.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: John Jessen [mailto:n212pj@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain AVionics
On a budget? ! ! !
Well, guess we all have different budgets. Agree, however, that that is a
great panel. I would do the AF series, but otherwise, not bad. Not bad at
all, given what was available only a few short years ago.
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 3:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain AVionics
Les,
I think you are starting at the right place. I have no experience with BMA
directly, so I won't say what I have heard. I have extensive experience
with Dynon (rock solid and very easy to use in my experience) and some very
limited experience with some of the others (AFS, Chelton, GRT, Garmin). I
have never, that I know of, heard complaints about any of these except maybe
that some are a little hard to calibrate. Again, starting with the EFIS and
working out is a good way to go. I think the next step from the EFIS would
be the GPS, if a good dependable one is not part of your EFIS already.
Then, IMHO, whichever TruTrak auto pilot does what you want it to with the
first two choices. Then, the radio(s) that are not already included in the
earlier items, then backups and aux stuff like audio panel, possibly
entertainment, etc.
As I am sure many know, my recommended IFR panel on a budget is a Dynon
D-180 w/ backup battery, Garmin 430W, Garmin SL-40, Garmin GTX-327, PS
Engineering or Garmin Audio Panel, TruTrak Digiflight II VSG or better Auto
Pilot (the Sorcerer is FANTASTIC), TruTrak ADI w/ internal GPS and backup
battery, Garmin 496 w/ XM Weather and internal battery, Garmin GI-106A Nav
Display, and a simple vertical card compass, airspeed indicator and
altimeter. It is definitely arguable that this is a solid IFR panel, and
although not as fancy as some, and certainly lacking some of the features of
a lot of others have in their panels, it is a good solid and stable panel on
a budget.
I can share some panel layouts using this basic setup if you would like.
E-mail me off the list if so.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney@shaw.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain AVionics
Hi
As I start looking at that curved blank piece of metal that will morph into
an instrument panel, I am trying to sort out what I should install.
I am interested in any opinions / experiences with the BMA EFIS 2. Not
having an unlimited budget, I my pan is to build a solid IFR panel around
whatever EFIS I choose. For the moment, the BMA EFIS seems to have most, if
not all, of what I need at a very reasonable price.
Inquiring minds need to know ..
Les Kearney
#40643 - Frustrated in the fuse
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
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gator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 3
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Subject: | grounding question |
Yes.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Ben Westfall [mailto:rv10@sinkrate.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: grounding question
Jesse,
Are you referring to the SA-9900 product from Stein on the accessories page
when you say "grounding tabs"? http://www.steinair.com/accessories.htm
Thanks for you input!
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: grounding question
Ben,
The grounding tabs that Stein sells seem to work quite well riveted to the
structure with no paint between. The strobes I ground very close to the
battery-airframe ground, the nav lights in the wings, landing lights and
pitot heat I ground locally. Everything in the panel gets grounded to the
firewall. The lights in the tail I run grounds back to the battery ground
area. The headset jacks I do not ground, but use the fiber washers to keep
them isolated from ground. Everything from the stick grip(s) I ground under
the copilot seat, although most of those grounds are just grounding the
switch so when it is pushed it connects that circuit to ground to tell the
things to do it's thing.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Ben Westfall [mailto:rv10@sinkrate.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 5:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: grounding question
What are people doing for ground wires for the nav, landing, and pitot heat?
Are you running separate wires for ground or grounding locally to the
airframe? This might be somewhat of a "primer war" question as I've heard
some say always run ground wires and others say ground locally.
Aeroelectric says local ground for "non-noisy" items is fine. Just
wondering what others have done.
If airframe what kind of hardware do you use to get a solid ground
connection? Do you use regular AN nuts bolts and washers or do you use
something like a lock washer that has more bite maybe? Do you cover the
nut/bolt with anything to slow any corrosion being that you need to clean
the primer off the metal at the point of contact?
Yes John I'll wipe the dust off the 43.13 :-)
-Ben Westfall
#40579
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
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Message 4
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Subject: | : RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods |
Thanks for the informative write up. As they say, now I get it>
Gary
40274
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods
I'd like to share some insights into the engineering design considerations
regarding speed control circuits for DC motors. (the
Ray-Allen style trim servo uses a brushed DC motor)
I would discourage the use of a resistor type speed control for adjusting
the travel speed on the trim servos used in our RV aircraft for the
following reasons:
Adding a series resistor to the trim motor limits the available current to
the motor and although it will slow the motor down it also limits the
available motor torque (i.e.. its ability to move the attached control
surface). This could be undesirable as the loading on the control surface
will vary with aircraft configuration and performance. Although you may
"tune" the resistor combination to work in one flight regime it may not be
what you need in another. Now perhaps there is a suitable compromise
value you may find "works" for your plane, but have you tested it thru
temperature, airspeed and aircraft loading extremes? The fundamental
problem is that series resistor forms a voltage divider with the attached
motor, as you load the motor down, its impedance drops, this means that
more of the voltage available from the aircraft bus will be dropped across
the resistor and less will be available for the motor as you load it down.
This effectively makes this method susceptible to problems over full
operating range of loads and supply voltages. Again, you may be able find
a "suitable" value that seems to work, but be careful to test over a wide
range of conditions.
A second, more long term problem associated with this method of speed
control has to do with motor life. A brushed DC motor can develop a
condition which will dramatically shorten its operating life if it is speed
controlled by reducing the available current available to the motor. The
phenomena is most prevalent in motors that are used for short durations or
intermittent duty. The condition that is likely to develop is that the
dust from the motor brushes will pack the slots of the motor's commutator.
This dust is a combination of conductive particles (carbon from the brushes)
and any oil from the motor bearings. This substance is like a conductive
paste and it gets wedged into the spaces between the commutator bars. The
paste effectively shorts out the motor over time. Normally, when the motor
is run at its designed voltage or when it controlled by reducing the
available motor voltage, there is plenty of current available to burn off
this conductive paste, and the motor lasts its full rated life. However,
if the motor is speed controlled by limiting the available current (eg.
using a series resistor dropper circuit) the ability to burn off this brush
paste is greatly compromised. The brush pasted remains packed in the
commutator and the motor effectively gets shorted out and stops moving.
This usually is noticed when the motor is turned on, and the brush paste
just cannot be cleared. The motor is then done. I've seen this effect
ruin dc motors within a dozen accumulated run hours.
In the DC motor industry the accepted method of speed control for
brushed DC motors is to reduce the motor voltage without limiting the
available motor current. This is done by a number of methods which include
linear regulators, high frequency switching regulators or direct PWM (pulse
width modulation) to name a few. All of these techniques can reduce the
average voltage to the motor without limiting the available motor current.
Sorry for the long post, but sometimes the engineering that goes to what
seems to be relatively simple can have significant consequences.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 5
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Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Rob Hickman of advanced flight systems has posted a picture in his support
forums of his magnetometer install location on the 10 they are building.
There is a thread that specifically talks about magnetometer locations as
well.
Picture:
http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magnetometermountingrv1ij8.jpg
(popup adds on this one)
Forum thread:
http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10
-Ben
#40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The xbow
NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief
trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to the
shelf plan for me.
But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have to
keep that bracket in mind for the future.
By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces? Is
that all just alodine? Looks great!
Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories or
problems with the NAV 420 AHRS?
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
<<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
<<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and testing
it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin during
this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that was
provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still makes
an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back into
the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer, problem
is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the
standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 6
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Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
That nice gold finish is PPG Armor Grip. I think it is 900 and
901.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The
xbow
NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief
trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to
the
shelf plan for me.
But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have
to
keep that bracket in mind for the future.
By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces?
Is
that all just alodine? Looks great!
Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories
or
problems with the NAV 420 AHRS?
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
<<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
<<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing
it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin
during
this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that
was
provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes
an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back
into
the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer,
problem
is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the
standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web
store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships
from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe
PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 7
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Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
This is the exact same position that we found was the best
location for the Garmin unit when installed in the Tail area.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Rob Hickman of advanced flight systems has posted a picture in his
support
forums of his magnetometer install location on the 10 they are building.
There is a thread that specifically talks about magnetometer locations
as
well.
Picture:
http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magnetometermountingrv1ij8.jpg
(popup adds on this one)
Forum thread:
http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10
-Ben
#40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The
xbow
NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief
trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to
the
shelf plan for me.
But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have
to
keep that bracket in mind for the future.
By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces?
Is
that all just alodine? Looks great!
Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories
or
problems with the NAV 420 AHRS?
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>>
<<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>>
<<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing
it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin
during
this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that
was
provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes
an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back
into
the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer,
problem
is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the
standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web
store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships
from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe
PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain AVionics |
I'm an RV-8 builder, owner flyer. I'm hanging out on this list to
learn more about the RV-10
For those interested in Blue Mountain Avionics I'll share my first
hand experiences.
Here are the Facts:
I got on the list for an EFIS lite G3 about 2 years before my first
flight. The lead time was something like 10 weeks and I received my
unit after about 16 weeks. After installation I noticed the issues
with the unit sitting still with no GPS input: The ADI would tumble
after a few minutes of sitting still in my garage. When I asked BMA
about this I was told that GPS was necessary for stable attitude
solutions. After I made it to that airport with GPS input the unit
displayed the same behavior. I was then told it needed to be in
flight to display proper attitude. This didn't pan out either. I
sent it back for service, they turned it around in 8 weeks after a
"recalibration" and it still didn't display stable attitude.
After getting no response for some time I sent a letter certified mail
return receipt asking for them to refund my money or I would hire a
lawyer in Copperhill to take them to small claims court. After that I
got some more attention from the service department and they told me
that unless the unit sees 10-12 satellites it can't function. To
solve the attitude equations they have to use Pitot or GPS info: BMA
is on the GPS side of the equations. I was told that a refund was out
of the question for a product sold 2 years ago.
Here is some analysis:
That is where I left things with BMA. Despite taking a $3000 loss on
the equipment I can't have something that needs GPS in my plane just
to maintain control. Anybody that has flown for a while has probably
seen GPS become unavailable. It is not unusual to see notams for GPS
outages around military airspace and so I couldn't stomach being that
dependent on GPS. I can cope with loss of GPS nav capabilites but
loss of attitude at the same time is outside of my risk envelope.
Greg Richter says the GPS is a better choice for giving stable
attitude.
here is some opinion:
I now have a Dynon D10A with an HSI-34. This combo has the base
features that I wanted: standard 6 pack and CDI at near the same
price as the BMA. Dynon is a much more mature product than the BMA
and Dynon is much more intuitive. The HS-34 is a new addition and
wasn't available when I was shopping.
Homebuilding is an unusual market place because of the potential large
lag between the time products hit the market and when the end users
actually get to use the products. BMA doesn't seem to care about this
kind if issue. Additionally 8 weeks is far too long for a product
turnaround.
I am just talking about the fundamental issues that I have had with
BMA. I could expound for several more pages on this and other issues
I have with them.
Just to keep me honest I have copied Greg Richter from BMA. I'm sure
his opinion will differ from mine.
Bill Judge
RV-8, flying since 11/18/06 now with 180 hrs now
N84WJ
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Subject: | Construction/Restoration |
Hello all,
I would like to offer my aircraft construction/restoration services to the
group. I have a 40' X 60' hangar in NE Georgia and have a lifetime of
experience with various aircraft. I can construct large projects for $15.00
per hour with first-class workmanship. Please email me directly or give me
a call.
Russ Lassetter
202 Aviation Blvd.
Cleveland, GA 30528
706-348-7514
rblassett@alltel.net
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods |
Bob-
I developed an automatic elevator trim system for my aircraft 15 months ago and
it has been performing flawlessly. Its so benign that its virtually invisible
and has never failed.
The black box creates a stream of 12-14.5 volt square pulses at 20hz. Pitot pressure
is sensed and a fine microprocessor backs off the duty cycle expotentially
as the speed increases. There are no switches normally needed, although I
have an off and constant 12 volt override switch for emergencies. The feel on
the trim switch is constant - no matter what speed the aircraft is moving.
Do you see any long term motor or electrical issues with this arrangement?
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
billderou@yahoo.com
Bob-tcw <rnewman@tcwtech.com> wrote:
I'd like to share some insights into the engineering design considerations
regarding speed control circuits for DC motors. (the
Ray-Allen style trim servo uses a brushed DC motor)
I would discourage the use of a resistor type speed control for adjusting
the travel speed on the trim servos used in our RV aircraft for the
following reasons:
Adding a series resistor to the trim motor limits the available current to
the motor and although it will slow the motor down it also limits the
available motor torque (i.e.. its ability to move the attached control
surface). This could be undesirable as the loading on the control surface
will vary with aircraft configuration and performance. Although you may
"tune" the resistor combination to work in one flight regime it may not be
what you need in another. Now perhaps there is a suitable compromise
value you may find "works" for your plane, but have you tested it thru
temperature, airspeed and aircraft loading extremes? The fundamental
problem is that series resistor forms a voltage divider with the attached
motor, as you load the motor down, its impedance drops, this means that
more of the voltage available from the aircraft bus will be dropped across
the resistor and less will be available for the motor as you load it down.
This effectively makes this method susceptible to problems over full
operating range of loads and supply voltages. Again, you may be able find
a "suitable" value that seems to work, but be careful to test over a wide
range of conditions.
A second, more long term problem associated with this method of speed
control has to do with motor life. A brushed DC motor can develop a
condition which will dramatically shorten its operating life if it is speed
controlled by reducing the available current available to the motor. The
phenomena is most prevalent in motors that are used for short durations or
intermittent duty. The condition that is likely to develop is that the
dust from the motor brushes will pack the slots of the motor's commutator.
This dust is a combination of conductive particles (carbon from the brushes)
and any oil from the motor bearings. This substance is like a conductive
paste and it gets wedged into the spaces between the commutator bars. The
paste effectively shorts out the motor over time. Normally, when the motor
is run at its designed voltage or when it controlled by reducing the
available motor voltage, there is plenty of current available to burn off
this conductive paste, and the motor lasts its full rated life. However,
if the motor is speed controlled by limiting the available current (eg.
using a series resistor dropper circuit) the ability to burn off this brush
paste is greatly compromised. The brush pasted remains packed in the
commutator and the motor effectively gets shorted out and stops moving.
This usually is noticed when the motor is turned on, and the brush paste
just cannot be cleared. The motor is then done. I've seen this effect
ruin dc motors within a dozen accumulated run hours.
In the DC motor industry the accepted method of speed control for
brushed DC motors is to reduce the motor voltage without limiting the
available motor current. This is done by a number of methods which include
linear regulators, high frequency switching regulators or direct PWM (pulse
width modulation) to name a few. All of these techniques can reduce the
average voltage to the motor without limiting the available motor current.
Sorry for the long post, but sometimes the engineering that goes to what
seems to be relatively simple can have significant consequences.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 11
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Subject: | RE: fuel tank access panel, updated! |
I do not know the exact size of the fuel tack access panel, and this may
be totally wrong, I hope the self regulating power of the list validates
this, but have you consider a suction-cup like the one used in raised
floors or to carry glass/appliances?
http://www.anver.com/document/company/vacuum%20handcups.htm
some of them can pull 500 lb.
--ga
Message 12
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Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Here is my mount for the 420 ahrs.
I can build a shelf on the four posts if I need to get it 6 inchs higher away
from battery and servo. I'm a good 20 " away now. Will try to demag the cable
if not see about stainless.
Pat Thyssen
"Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com> wrote:
That nice gold finish is PPG Armor Grip. I think it is 900 and
901.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The
xbow
NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief
trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to
the
shelf plan for me.
But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have
to
keep that bracket in mind for the future.
By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces?
Is
that all just alodine? Looks great!
Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories
or
problems with the NAV 420 AHRS?
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<> <> <>
<> <> <>
<> <> <>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing
it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin
during
this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that
was
provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes
an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back
into
the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer,
problem
is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the
standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web
store.
It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf.
I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to
figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships
from
OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe
PS
tray.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
Message 13
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|
Thanks John...perfect!!
Now all I have to do is convince my local supplier to break a packet of
100!
John 40315
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cleary
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws
John,
The GNS 400 and 500 series use AN577 6-32 screws with 100 degree
countersink.
Cheers,
John Cleary
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, 14 November 2007 9:51 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Screws
I=92m looking for the screws that you attach the garmin radio racks to
your framework with.
I think they=92re MS24693BB =91s 6-32=92s maybe?
Any body got some clues on this and whether the countersunk flat head
is 82deg or 100deg?
Thanks,
John 40315 (instrument panel)
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com Release Date: 13/11/2007 11:09 AM
13/11/2007 11:09 AM
Message 14
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: : RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods |
When this was last discussed, a few folks ask me for resistor values. I did a
rough calculation and determined that about a 10 ohm resistor would be required
to get it down to ~7 volts (assuming .6 amp draw) but that resistor would have
to be quite large to dissipate nearly 3 watts.
I redesigned the speed controller by using the ubiquitous 780x power regulator
instead. In this case a 7806 regulates the input voltage down to 6 volts for
up to 1 amp. The speed controller is activated by a switch on the flap torque
tube where ,when the flaps are up, power to the trim motor is via the 7806 power
regulator, any other flap position and trim motor runs at full speed. Much
more efficient and elegant compared to a resistor.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/RV10PitchTrim.pdf
I encourage your development of products for the RV-10 and I think your trim controller
is an excellent product. However, we all have the tendency to implement
the "gold plated" solution when the more effective stainless steel would do.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I'd like to share some insights into the engineering design considerations
> regarding speed control circuits for DC motors. (the
> Ray-Allen style trim servo uses a brushed DC motor)
> I would discourage the use of a resistor type speed control for adjusting
> the travel speed on the trim servos used in our RV aircraft for the
> following reasons:
>
> Adding a series resistor to the trim motor limits the available current to
> the motor and although it will slow the motor down it also limits the
> available motor torque (i.e.. its ability to move the attached control
> surface). This could be undesirable as the loading on the control surface
> will vary with aircraft configuration and performance. Although you may
> "tune" the resistor combination to work in one flight regime it may not be
> what you need in another. Now perhaps there is a suitable compromise
> value you may find "works" for your plane, but have you tested it thru
> temperature, airspeed and aircraft loading extremes? The fundamental
> problem is that series resistor forms a voltage divider with the attached
> motor, as you load the motor down, its impedance drops, this means that
> more of the voltage available from the aircraft bus will be dropped across
> the resistor and less will be available for the motor as you load it down.
> This effectively makes this method susceptible to problems over full
> operating range of loads and supply voltages. Again, you may be able find
> a "suitable" value that seems to work, but be careful to test over a wide
> range of conditions.
> A second, more long term problem associated with this method of speed
> control has to do with motor life. A brushed DC motor can develop a
> condition which will dramatically shorten its operating life if it is speed
> controlled by reducing the available current available to the motor. The
> phenomena is most prevalent in motors that are used for short durations or
> intermittent duty. The condition that is likely to develop is that the
> dust from the motor brushes will pack the slots of the motor's commutator.
> This dust is a combination of conductive particles (carbon from the brushes)
> and any oil from the motor bearings. This substance is like a conductive
> paste and it gets wedged into the spaces between the commutator bars. The
> paste effectively shorts out the motor over time. Normally, when the motor
> is run at its designed voltage or when it controlled by reducing the
> available motor voltage, there is plenty of current available to burn off
> this conductive paste, and the motor lasts its full rated life. However,
> if the motor is speed controlled by limiting the available current (eg.
> using a series resistor dropper circuit) the ability to burn off this brush
> paste is greatly compromised. The brush pasted remains packed in the
> commutator and the motor effectively gets shorted out and stops moving.
> This usually is noticed when the motor is turned on, and the brush paste
> just cannot be cleared. The motor is then done. I've seen this effect
> ruin dc motors within a dozen accumulated run hours.
>
> In the DC motor industry the accepted method of speed control for
> brushed DC motors is to reduce the motor voltage without limiting the
> available motor current. This is done by a number of methods which include
> linear regulators, high frequency switching regulators or direct PWM (pulse
> width modulation) to name a few. All of these techniques can reduce the
> average voltage to the motor without limiting the available motor current.
>
>
>
> Sorry for the long post, but sometimes the engineering that goes to what
> seems to be relatively simple can have significant consequences.
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies
> www.tcwtech.com
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit |
Two successful Xbow 420 installations:
Since the Xbow 420 incorporates orientation sensors and a three axis magnetometer
we located the unit close to the origin of all three axis as practical but
moved outside the hard iron magnetic fields.
We constructed a flat plate approx .125 thick and installed it where the rear
seat shoulder harness cable is bolted to the upper longeron. It spans the fuselage
width wise and we relocated the seat belt cable to the front lip of this
plate. Used the same three holes on each side that was originally for the shoulder
harness anchor. Also over engineered it with an .063 Tee running laterally
to stiffen any up and down vibrations. The NAV420 is on the top and centered
laterally.
I measured the magnetic fields around the elevator trim motor and the elevator
trim motor/battery and they will interfere with a compass 24" away. Do not underestimate
the field around the small elevator trim motor - it is significant.
This location was outside both fore and aft magnetic fields and has a significant
advantage. If the plate is flat on the longeron and at right angles to the
yaw centerline it will automatically have two axis perfectly aligned. Simply
run a string from front center to the tail center to form the yaw axis and center
the NAV420 on this string to align the third axis. No installation correction
was needed for either RV-10 with this approach.
Do not even think of locating a magnetometer anywhere near the baggage compartment.
The magnetic interference can easily be significant and uncontrollable.
Sorry I do not have a picture.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
Patrick Thyssen <jump2@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Here is my mount for the 420 ahrs.
I can build a shelf on the four posts if I need to get it 6 inchs higher away
from battery and servo. I'm a good 20 " away now. Will try to demag the cable
if not see about stainless.
Pat Thyssen
"Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com> wrote:
That nice gold finish is PPG Armor Grip. I think it is 900 and
901.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The
xbow
NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief
trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to
the
shelf plan for me.
But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have
to
keep that bracket in mind for the future.
By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces?
Is
that all just alodine? Looks great!
Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories
or
problems with the NAV 420 AHRS?
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
<> <> <>
<> <> <>
<> <> <>
I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and
testing
it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin
during
this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that
was
provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself.
By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still
makes
an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back
into
the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer,
problem
is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the
standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
ONeill
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10:
AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10
Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10
Description
Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit.
Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or
the
Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9,
and
RV-10.
Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not
getting
a clear picture of what it entails from
Message 17
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|
Guys I was not happy with Vans setup of rear part of exhaust etc. I also
did not need the heat that comes out of those huge muffs into the cabin.
I contacted Larry and he made these up for me . I was originally only
going to change the passenger side but Larry said there would be a
pressure change so I changed them both and now have the standard setup
like we had in our 6. Because there is no baffle as such there is a
slight power increase. I only had to change the rear part of exhaust and
it was about an hours work. They are longer than the previous exhaust.
As you can see there is now less clutter in the engine compartment.
Not intended to put anyone's exhaust down at all, just wanted to show
what I have done.
regards Chris
Message 18
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Subject: | Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD |
FYI.
Anh
N591VU-105hrs
------------------
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: [Mid-AtlRVwing] RV-A Nose gear AD
There is a Mandatory Service Bulletin 07-11-09 for all Tricycle Gear
RV,s. Check Van's site.
Turtle
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Subject: | Re: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD |
For 2 seaters only
----- Original Message -----
From: DejaVu
To: RV10
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 3:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD
FYI.
Anh
N591VU-105hrs
------------------
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: [Mid-AtlRVwing] RV-A Nose gear AD
There is a Mandatory Service Bulletin 07-11-09 for all Tricycle Gear
RV,s. Check Van's site.
Turtle
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format to Traditional
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Group
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Subject: | Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips |
I mounted my (one) Hartwell clip on the oil door. Looking at it two could be better.
I got a little upward bowing from riveting on the clip. It fits great except
that the ends flare up a bit (not desirable for holding the air in the cowl).
I must admit that I do like the totally flush look on the cowling rather
than those two icky fasteners. Also the Hartwell clips are stone simple and tough
as nails. They weigh about 40 grams each
I figured that I can put a z-strip over the clip and straighten out the bow in
the door. This would add nominal weight. and then do the epoxy glass bit
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=146096#146096
Message 21
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Subject: | Tech Councelor - when is the right time |
I am a first time builder. I have done quite a bit of work on my Q/B fuse kit.
I got my empenage approved by a T/C. When is another visit appropriate?
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=146097#146097
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