RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 11/14/07


Total Messages Posted: 21



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:15 AM - Re: Screws (John Cleary)
     2. 03:51 AM - Re: Blue Mountain AVionics (Jesse Saint)
     3. 03:53 AM - Re: grounding question (Jesse Saint)
     4. 05:19 AM - Re: Trim troubles and mods (gary)
     5. 06:20 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Ben Westfall)
     6. 06:36 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
     7. 06:39 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
     8. 08:23 AM - Re: Blue Mountain AVionics (Bill Judge)
     9. 09:19 AM - Construction/Restoration (Russell Lassetter)
    10. 09:46 AM - Re: Trim troubles and mods (Bill DeRouchey)
    11. 10:04 AM - Re: fuel tank access panel, updated! (German Alvarez)
    12. 11:03 AM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Patrick Thyssen)
    13. 12:13 PM - Re: Screws (John Dunne)
    14. 02:31 PM - Re: Screws (Patrick Pulis)
    15. 05:33 PM - Re: Trim troubles and mods (William Curtis)
    16. 05:47 PM - Re: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit (Bill DeRouchey)
    17. 06:34 PM - Exhaust (Chris and Susie McGough)
    18. 08:54 PM - Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD (DejaVu)
    19. 09:02 PM - Re: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD (Chris and Susie McGough)
    20. 11:32 PM - Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips (AirMike)
    21. 11:38 PM - Tech Councelor - when is the right time (AirMike)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:15:20 AM PST US
    From: "John Cleary" <john_rv10@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Screws
    John, The GNS 400 and 500 series use AN577 6-32 screws with 100 degree countersink. Cheers, John Cleary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne Sent: Wednesday, 14 November 2007 9:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: Screws I=92m looking for the screws that you attach the garmin radio racks to your framework with. I think they=92re MS24693BB =91s 6-32=92s maybe? Any body got some clues on this and whether the countersunk flat head is 82deg or 100deg? Thanks, John 40315 (instrument panel) "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List "http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com 13/11/2007 11:09 AM 13/11/2007 11:09 AM


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:51:34 AM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    Subject: Blue Mountain AVionics
    Yes, everybody has a different budget, but I don't know how to get much cheaper for a good dependable IFR panel with a decent level of backups. Do not archive. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: John Jessen [mailto:n212pj@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain AVionics On a budget? ! ! ! Well, guess we all have different budgets. Agree, however, that that is a great panel. I would do the AF series, but otherwise, not bad. Not bad at all, given what was available only a few short years ago. do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 3:47 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain AVionics Les, I think you are starting at the right place. I have no experience with BMA directly, so I won't say what I have heard. I have extensive experience with Dynon (rock solid and very easy to use in my experience) and some very limited experience with some of the others (AFS, Chelton, GRT, Garmin). I have never, that I know of, heard complaints about any of these except maybe that some are a little hard to calibrate. Again, starting with the EFIS and working out is a good way to go. I think the next step from the EFIS would be the GPS, if a good dependable one is not part of your EFIS already. Then, IMHO, whichever TruTrak auto pilot does what you want it to with the first two choices. Then, the radio(s) that are not already included in the earlier items, then backups and aux stuff like audio panel, possibly entertainment, etc. As I am sure many know, my recommended IFR panel on a budget is a Dynon D-180 w/ backup battery, Garmin 430W, Garmin SL-40, Garmin GTX-327, PS Engineering or Garmin Audio Panel, TruTrak Digiflight II VSG or better Auto Pilot (the Sorcerer is FANTASTIC), TruTrak ADI w/ internal GPS and backup battery, Garmin 496 w/ XM Weather and internal battery, Garmin GI-106A Nav Display, and a simple vertical card compass, airspeed indicator and altimeter. It is definitely arguable that this is a solid IFR panel, and although not as fancy as some, and certainly lacking some of the features of a lot of others have in their panels, it is a good solid and stable panel on a budget. I can share some panel layouts using this basic setup if you would like. E-mail me off the list if so. Do not archive. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney@shaw.ca] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain AVionics Hi As I start looking at that curved blank piece of metal that will morph into an instrument panel, I am trying to sort out what I should install. I am interested in any opinions / experiences with the BMA EFIS 2. Not having an unlimited budget, I my pan is to build a solid IFR panel around whatever EFIS I choose. For the moment, the BMA EFIS seems to have most, if not all, of what I need at a very reasonable price. Inquiring minds need to know .. Les Kearney #40643 - Frustrated in the fuse http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:53:49 AM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    Subject: grounding question
    Yes. Do not archive. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: Ben Westfall [mailto:rv10@sinkrate.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 6:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: grounding question Jesse, Are you referring to the SA-9900 product from Stein on the accessories page when you say "grounding tabs"? http://www.steinair.com/accessories.htm Thanks for you input! -Ben _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:15 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: grounding question Ben, The grounding tabs that Stein sells seem to work quite well riveted to the structure with no paint between. The strobes I ground very close to the battery-airframe ground, the nav lights in the wings, landing lights and pitot heat I ground locally. Everything in the panel gets grounded to the firewall. The lights in the tail I run grounds back to the battery ground area. The headset jacks I do not ground, but use the fiber washers to keep them isolated from ground. Everything from the stick grip(s) I ground under the copilot seat, although most of those grounds are just grounding the switch so when it is pushed it connects that circuit to ground to tell the things to do it's thing. Do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: Ben Westfall [mailto:rv10@sinkrate.com] Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 5:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: grounding question What are people doing for ground wires for the nav, landing, and pitot heat? Are you running separate wires for ground or grounding locally to the airframe? This might be somewhat of a "primer war" question as I've heard some say always run ground wires and others say ground locally. Aeroelectric says local ground for "non-noisy" items is fine. Just wondering what others have done. If airframe what kind of hardware do you use to get a solid ground connection? Do you use regular AN nuts bolts and washers or do you use something like a lock washer that has more bite maybe? Do you cover the nut/bolt with anything to slow any corrosion being that you need to clean the primer off the metal at the point of contact? Yes John I'll wipe the dust off the 43.13 :-) -Ben Westfall #40579 http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:19:43 AM PST US
    From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: : RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods
    Thanks for the informative write up. As they say, now I get it> Gary 40274 Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:28 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods I'd like to share some insights into the engineering design considerations regarding speed control circuits for DC motors. (the Ray-Allen style trim servo uses a brushed DC motor) I would discourage the use of a resistor type speed control for adjusting the travel speed on the trim servos used in our RV aircraft for the following reasons: Adding a series resistor to the trim motor limits the available current to the motor and although it will slow the motor down it also limits the available motor torque (i.e.. its ability to move the attached control surface). This could be undesirable as the loading on the control surface will vary with aircraft configuration and performance. Although you may "tune" the resistor combination to work in one flight regime it may not be what you need in another. Now perhaps there is a suitable compromise value you may find "works" for your plane, but have you tested it thru temperature, airspeed and aircraft loading extremes? The fundamental problem is that series resistor forms a voltage divider with the attached motor, as you load the motor down, its impedance drops, this means that more of the voltage available from the aircraft bus will be dropped across the resistor and less will be available for the motor as you load it down. This effectively makes this method susceptible to problems over full operating range of loads and supply voltages. Again, you may be able find a "suitable" value that seems to work, but be careful to test over a wide range of conditions. A second, more long term problem associated with this method of speed control has to do with motor life. A brushed DC motor can develop a condition which will dramatically shorten its operating life if it is speed controlled by reducing the available current available to the motor. The phenomena is most prevalent in motors that are used for short durations or intermittent duty. The condition that is likely to develop is that the dust from the motor brushes will pack the slots of the motor's commutator. This dust is a combination of conductive particles (carbon from the brushes) and any oil from the motor bearings. This substance is like a conductive paste and it gets wedged into the spaces between the commutator bars. The paste effectively shorts out the motor over time. Normally, when the motor is run at its designed voltage or when it controlled by reducing the available motor voltage, there is plenty of current available to burn off this conductive paste, and the motor lasts its full rated life. However, if the motor is speed controlled by limiting the available current (eg. using a series resistor dropper circuit) the ability to burn off this brush paste is greatly compromised. The brush pasted remains packed in the commutator and the motor effectively gets shorted out and stops moving. This usually is noticed when the motor is turned on, and the brush paste just cannot be cleared. The motor is then done. I've seen this effect ruin dc motors within a dozen accumulated run hours. In the DC motor industry the accepted method of speed control for brushed DC motors is to reduce the motor voltage without limiting the available motor current. This is done by a number of methods which include linear regulators, high frequency switching regulators or direct PWM (pulse width modulation) to name a few. All of these techniques can reduce the average voltage to the motor without limiting the available motor current. Sorry for the long post, but sometimes the engineering that goes to what seems to be relatively simple can have significant consequences. Bob Newman TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:20:07 AM PST US
    From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
    Subject: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
    Rob Hickman of advanced flight systems has posted a picture in his support forums of his magnetometer install location on the 10 they are building. There is a thread that specifically talks about magnetometer locations as well. Picture: http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magnetometermountingrv1ij8.jpg (popup adds on this one) Forum thread: http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10 -Ben #40579 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot. Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The xbow NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to the shelf plan for me. But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have to keep that bracket in mind for the future. By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces? Is that all just alodine? Looks great! Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories or problems with the NAV 420 AHRS? Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit <<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>> <<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>> <<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>> I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself. By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10: AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10 Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10 Description Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit. Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and RV-10. Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web store. It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf. I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships from OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe PS tray. Best Regards, Patrick #40715


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:36:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
    From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
    That nice gold finish is PPG Armor Grip. I think it is 900 and 901. Thank You Ray Doerr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:10 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot. Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The xbow NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to the shelf plan for me. But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have to keep that bracket in mind for the future. By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces? Is that all just alodine? Looks great! Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories or problems with the NAV 420 AHRS? Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit <<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>> <<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>> <<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>> I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself. By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10: AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10 Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10 Description Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit. Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and RV-10. Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web store. It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf. I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships from OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe PS tray. Best Regards, Patrick #40715


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:39:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
    From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
    This is the exact same position that we found was the best location for the Garmin unit when installed in the Tail area. Thank You Ray Doerr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:13 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit Rob Hickman of advanced flight systems has posted a picture in his support forums of his magnetometer install location on the 10 they are building. There is a thread that specifically talks about magnetometer locations as well. Picture: http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=magnetometermountingrv1ij8.jpg (popup adds on this one) Forum thread: http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10 -Ben #40579 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot. Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The xbow NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to the shelf plan for me. But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have to keep that bracket in mind for the future. By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces? Is that all just alodine? Looks great! Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories or problems with the NAV 420 AHRS? Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit <<IMG_0911.JPG>> <<IMG_0912.JPG>> <<IMG_0913.JPG>> <<IMG_0922.JPG>> <<IMG_0923.JPG>> <<IMG_0907.JPG>> <<IMG_0908.JPG>> <<IMG_0909.JPG>> <<IMG_0910.JPG>> I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself. By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10: AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10 Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10 Description Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit. Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and RV-10. Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web store. It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf. I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships from OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe PS tray. Best Regards, Patrick #40715


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:23:13 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Judge" <bjudge@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Blue Mountain AVionics
    I'm an RV-8 builder, owner flyer. I'm hanging out on this list to learn more about the RV-10 For those interested in Blue Mountain Avionics I'll share my first hand experiences. Here are the Facts: I got on the list for an EFIS lite G3 about 2 years before my first flight. The lead time was something like 10 weeks and I received my unit after about 16 weeks. After installation I noticed the issues with the unit sitting still with no GPS input: The ADI would tumble after a few minutes of sitting still in my garage. When I asked BMA about this I was told that GPS was necessary for stable attitude solutions. After I made it to that airport with GPS input the unit displayed the same behavior. I was then told it needed to be in flight to display proper attitude. This didn't pan out either. I sent it back for service, they turned it around in 8 weeks after a "recalibration" and it still didn't display stable attitude. After getting no response for some time I sent a letter certified mail return receipt asking for them to refund my money or I would hire a lawyer in Copperhill to take them to small claims court. After that I got some more attention from the service department and they told me that unless the unit sees 10-12 satellites it can't function. To solve the attitude equations they have to use Pitot or GPS info: BMA is on the GPS side of the equations. I was told that a refund was out of the question for a product sold 2 years ago. Here is some analysis: That is where I left things with BMA. Despite taking a $3000 loss on the equipment I can't have something that needs GPS in my plane just to maintain control. Anybody that has flown for a while has probably seen GPS become unavailable. It is not unusual to see notams for GPS outages around military airspace and so I couldn't stomach being that dependent on GPS. I can cope with loss of GPS nav capabilites but loss of attitude at the same time is outside of my risk envelope. Greg Richter says the GPS is a better choice for giving stable attitude. here is some opinion: I now have a Dynon D10A with an HSI-34. This combo has the base features that I wanted: standard 6 pack and CDI at near the same price as the BMA. Dynon is a much more mature product than the BMA and Dynon is much more intuitive. The HS-34 is a new addition and wasn't available when I was shopping. Homebuilding is an unusual market place because of the potential large lag between the time products hit the market and when the end users actually get to use the products. BMA doesn't seem to care about this kind if issue. Additionally 8 weeks is far too long for a product turnaround. I am just talking about the fundamental issues that I have had with BMA. I could expound for several more pages on this and other issues I have with them. Just to keep me honest I have copied Greg Richter from BMA. I'm sure his opinion will differ from mine. Bill Judge RV-8, flying since 11/18/06 now with 180 hrs now N84WJ


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:19:05 AM PST US
    From: "Russell Lassetter" <rblassett@alltel.net>
    Subject: Construction/Restoration
    Hello all, I would like to offer my aircraft construction/restoration services to the group. I have a 40' X 60' hangar in NE Georgia and have a lifetime of experience with various aircraft. I can construct large projects for $15.00 per hour with first-class workmanship. Please email me directly or give me a call. Russ Lassetter 202 Aviation Blvd. Cleveland, GA 30528 706-348-7514 rblassett@alltel.net


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:46:09 AM PST US
    From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods
    Bob- I developed an automatic elevator trim system for my aircraft 15 months ago and it has been performing flawlessly. Its so benign that its virtually invisible and has never failed. The black box creates a stream of 12-14.5 volt square pulses at 20hz. Pitot pressure is sensed and a fine microprocessor backs off the duty cycle expotentially as the speed increases. There are no switches normally needed, although I have an off and constant 12 volt override switch for emergencies. The feel on the trim switch is constant - no matter what speed the aircraft is moving. Do you see any long term motor or electrical issues with this arrangement? Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying billderou@yahoo.com Bob-tcw <rnewman@tcwtech.com> wrote: I'd like to share some insights into the engineering design considerations regarding speed control circuits for DC motors. (the Ray-Allen style trim servo uses a brushed DC motor) I would discourage the use of a resistor type speed control for adjusting the travel speed on the trim servos used in our RV aircraft for the following reasons: Adding a series resistor to the trim motor limits the available current to the motor and although it will slow the motor down it also limits the available motor torque (i.e.. its ability to move the attached control surface). This could be undesirable as the loading on the control surface will vary with aircraft configuration and performance. Although you may "tune" the resistor combination to work in one flight regime it may not be what you need in another. Now perhaps there is a suitable compromise value you may find "works" for your plane, but have you tested it thru temperature, airspeed and aircraft loading extremes? The fundamental problem is that series resistor forms a voltage divider with the attached motor, as you load the motor down, its impedance drops, this means that more of the voltage available from the aircraft bus will be dropped across the resistor and less will be available for the motor as you load it down. This effectively makes this method susceptible to problems over full operating range of loads and supply voltages. Again, you may be able find a "suitable" value that seems to work, but be careful to test over a wide range of conditions. A second, more long term problem associated with this method of speed control has to do with motor life. A brushed DC motor can develop a condition which will dramatically shorten its operating life if it is speed controlled by reducing the available current available to the motor. The phenomena is most prevalent in motors that are used for short durations or intermittent duty. The condition that is likely to develop is that the dust from the motor brushes will pack the slots of the motor's commutator. This dust is a combination of conductive particles (carbon from the brushes) and any oil from the motor bearings. This substance is like a conductive paste and it gets wedged into the spaces between the commutator bars. The paste effectively shorts out the motor over time. Normally, when the motor is run at its designed voltage or when it controlled by reducing the available motor voltage, there is plenty of current available to burn off this conductive paste, and the motor lasts its full rated life. However, if the motor is speed controlled by limiting the available current (eg. using a series resistor dropper circuit) the ability to burn off this brush paste is greatly compromised. The brush pasted remains packed in the commutator and the motor effectively gets shorted out and stops moving. This usually is noticed when the motor is turned on, and the brush paste just cannot be cleared. The motor is then done. I've seen this effect ruin dc motors within a dozen accumulated run hours. In the DC motor industry the accepted method of speed control for brushed DC motors is to reduce the motor voltage without limiting the available motor current. This is done by a number of methods which include linear regulators, high frequency switching regulators or direct PWM (pulse width modulation) to name a few. All of these techniques can reduce the average voltage to the motor without limiting the available motor current. Sorry for the long post, but sometimes the engineering that goes to what seems to be relatively simple can have significant consequences. Bob Newman TCW Technologies www.tcwtech.com


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:04:15 AM PST US
    From: German Alvarez <german.alvarez@playalinda.net>
    Subject: RE: fuel tank access panel, updated!
    I do not know the exact size of the fuel tack access panel, and this may be totally wrong, I hope the self regulating power of the list validates this, but have you consider a suction-cup like the one used in raised floors or to carry glass/appliances? http://www.anver.com/document/company/vacuum%20handcups.htm some of them can pull 500 lb. --ga


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:03:29 AM PST US
    From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
    Here is my mount for the 420 ahrs. I can build a shelf on the four posts if I need to get it 6 inchs higher away from battery and servo. I'm a good 20 " away now. Will try to demag the cable if not see about stainless. Pat Thyssen "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com> wrote: That nice gold finish is PPG Armor Grip. I think it is 900 and 901. Thank You Ray Doerr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:10 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot. Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The xbow NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to the shelf plan for me. But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have to keep that bracket in mind for the future. By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces? Is that all just alodine? Looks great! Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories or problems with the NAV 420 AHRS? Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself. By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10: AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10 Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10 Description Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit. Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and RV-10. Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting a clear picture of what it entails from the illustration on Van's web store. It would be nice to skip fabricating an AHRS shelf. I'm not sure which AHRS units are used by Garmin or GRT. I am trying to figure out if it will accommodate the Xbow NAV 420 AHRS unit that ships from OP. I also want to make sure it does not conflict with the ELT/Strobe PS tray. Best Regards, Patrick #40715


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:13:57 PM PST US
    From: "John Dunne" <acs@acspropeller.com.au>
    Subject: Re: Screws
    Thanks John...perfect!! Now all I have to do is convince my local supplier to break a packet of 100! John 40315 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: John Cleary To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 9:08 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Screws John, The GNS 400 and 500 series use AN577 6-32 screws with 100 degree countersink. Cheers, John Cleary ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne Sent: Wednesday, 14 November 2007 9:51 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Screws I=92m looking for the screws that you attach the garmin radio racks to your framework with. I think they=92re MS24693BB =91s 6-32=92s maybe? Any body got some clues on this and whether the countersunk flat head is 82deg or 100deg? Thanks, John 40315 (instrument panel) http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com Release Date: 13/11/2007 11:09 AM 13/11/2007 11:09 AM


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:31:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Screws
    From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>


    Message 15


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    Time: 05:33:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: : RV10-List:Trim troubles and mods
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    When this was last discussed, a few folks ask me for resistor values. I did a rough calculation and determined that about a 10 ohm resistor would be required to get it down to ~7 volts (assuming .6 amp draw) but that resistor would have to be quite large to dissipate nearly 3 watts. I redesigned the speed controller by using the ubiquitous 780x power regulator instead. In this case a 7806 regulates the input voltage down to 6 volts for up to 1 amp. The speed controller is activated by a switch on the flap torque tube where ,when the flaps are up, power to the trim motor is via the 7806 power regulator, any other flap position and trim motor runs at full speed. Much more efficient and elegant compared to a resistor. http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/RV10PitchTrim.pdf I encourage your development of products for the RV-10 and I think your trim controller is an excellent product. However, we all have the tendency to implement the "gold plated" solution when the more effective stainless steel would do. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I'd like to share some insights into the engineering design considerations > regarding speed control circuits for DC motors. (the > Ray-Allen style trim servo uses a brushed DC motor) > I would discourage the use of a resistor type speed control for adjusting > the travel speed on the trim servos used in our RV aircraft for the > following reasons: > > Adding a series resistor to the trim motor limits the available current to > the motor and although it will slow the motor down it also limits the > available motor torque (i.e.. its ability to move the attached control > surface). This could be undesirable as the loading on the control surface > will vary with aircraft configuration and performance. Although you may > "tune" the resistor combination to work in one flight regime it may not be > what you need in another. Now perhaps there is a suitable compromise > value you may find "works" for your plane, but have you tested it thru > temperature, airspeed and aircraft loading extremes? The fundamental > problem is that series resistor forms a voltage divider with the attached > motor, as you load the motor down, its impedance drops, this means that > more of the voltage available from the aircraft bus will be dropped across > the resistor and less will be available for the motor as you load it down. > This effectively makes this method susceptible to problems over full > operating range of loads and supply voltages. Again, you may be able find > a "suitable" value that seems to work, but be careful to test over a wide > range of conditions. > A second, more long term problem associated with this method of speed > control has to do with motor life. A brushed DC motor can develop a > condition which will dramatically shorten its operating life if it is speed > controlled by reducing the available current available to the motor. The > phenomena is most prevalent in motors that are used for short durations or > intermittent duty. The condition that is likely to develop is that the > dust from the motor brushes will pack the slots of the motor's commutator. > This dust is a combination of conductive particles (carbon from the brushes) > and any oil from the motor bearings. This substance is like a conductive > paste and it gets wedged into the spaces between the commutator bars. The > paste effectively shorts out the motor over time. Normally, when the motor > is run at its designed voltage or when it controlled by reducing the > available motor voltage, there is plenty of current available to burn off > this conductive paste, and the motor lasts its full rated life. However, > if the motor is speed controlled by limiting the available current (eg. > using a series resistor dropper circuit) the ability to burn off this brush > paste is greatly compromised. The brush pasted remains packed in the > commutator and the motor effectively gets shorted out and stops moving. > This usually is noticed when the motor is turned on, and the brush paste > just cannot be cleared. The motor is then done. I've seen this effect > ruin dc motors within a dozen accumulated run hours. > > In the DC motor industry the accepted method of speed control for > brushed DC motors is to reduce the motor voltage without limiting the > available motor current. This is done by a number of methods which include > linear regulators, high frequency switching regulators or direct PWM (pulse > width modulation) to name a few. All of these techniques can reduce the > average voltage to the motor without limiting the available motor current. > > > > Sorry for the long post, but sometimes the engineering that goes to what > seems to be relatively simple can have significant consequences. > > > Bob Newman > TCW Technologies > www.tcwtech.com > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 05:47:55 PM PST US
    From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit
    Two successful Xbow 420 installations: Since the Xbow 420 incorporates orientation sensors and a three axis magnetometer we located the unit close to the origin of all three axis as practical but moved outside the hard iron magnetic fields. We constructed a flat plate approx .125 thick and installed it where the rear seat shoulder harness cable is bolted to the upper longeron. It spans the fuselage width wise and we relocated the seat belt cable to the front lip of this plate. Used the same three holes on each side that was originally for the shoulder harness anchor. Also over engineered it with an .063 Tee running laterally to stiffen any up and down vibrations. The NAV420 is on the top and centered laterally. I measured the magnetic fields around the elevator trim motor and the elevator trim motor/battery and they will interfere with a compass 24" away. Do not underestimate the field around the small elevator trim motor - it is significant. This location was outside both fore and aft magnetic fields and has a significant advantage. If the plate is flat on the longeron and at right angles to the yaw centerline it will automatically have two axis perfectly aligned. Simply run a string from front center to the tail center to form the yaw axis and center the NAV420 on this string to align the third axis. No installation correction was needed for either RV-10 with this approach. Do not even think of locating a magnetometer anywhere near the baggage compartment. The magnetic interference can easily be significant and uncontrollable. Sorry I do not have a picture. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying Patrick Thyssen <jump2@sbcglobal.net> wrote: Here is my mount for the 420 ahrs. I can build a shelf on the four posts if I need to get it 6 inchs higher away from battery and servo. I'm a good 20 " away now. Will try to demag the cable if not see about stainless. Pat Thyssen "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com> wrote: That nice gold finish is PPG Armor Grip. I think it is 900 and 901. Thank You Ray Doerr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 1:10 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit Thanks much for the pictures Ray! That helps a lot. Unfortunately, I don't think I can use that as the AHRS station. The xbow NAV 420 has an integrated 3-axis magnetometer. I can imagine the grief trying to situate it 6 inches from a main battery wire. So it's back to the shelf plan for me. But that might be another useful station for something else. I'll have to keep that bracket in mind for the future. By the way, how are you prepping the inside of the tail cone surfaces? Is that all just alodine? Looks great! Anyone else currently flying with OP EFIS? Any location success stories or problems with the NAV 420 AHRS? Best Regards, Patrick #40715 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> I was working with Garmin here in Olathe on this bracket and testing it using my RV-10. Here are all the pictures I provided to Garmin during this process. Van's actually created the bracket with the feedback that was provided my Scott (Garmin) and myself. By the way, I don't have either AHRS, but this bracket still makes an excellent support for a 1" x 8" board when you need to crawl back into the tail. We are still working on the bracket for the Magnometer, problem is finding a good location that is free of magnetic interference to the standards which Garmin has set for the Certified installations. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick ONeill Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 6:08 AM Subject: RV10-List: Vans RV-10 AHRS Mounting Kit I just noticed that Van's is offering an AHRS mounting kit for the 10: AHRS Mount Kit for the RV-10 Part Number = IF AHRS MOUNT-10 Description Mount for Attitude Heading Reference System unit. Provides parts to mount the AHRS unit for either the Garmin G900XT or the Grand Rapids EFIS. Locates unit behind baggage bulkhead on RV-7, RV-9, and RV-10. Has anyone received one of these or better yet, any photos? I'm not getting a clear picture of what it entails from


    Message 17


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    Time: 06:34:01 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Exhaust
    Guys I was not happy with Vans setup of rear part of exhaust etc. I also did not need the heat that comes out of those huge muffs into the cabin. I contacted Larry and he made these up for me . I was originally only going to change the passenger side but Larry said there would be a pressure change so I changed them both and now have the standard setup like we had in our 6. Because there is no baffle as such there is a slight power increase. I only had to change the rear part of exhaust and it was about an hours work. They are longer than the previous exhaust. As you can see there is now less clutter in the engine compartment. Not intended to put anyone's exhaust down at all, just wanted to show what I have done. regards Chris


    Message 18


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    Time: 08:54:09 PM PST US
    From: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
    Subject: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD
    FYI. Anh N591VU-105hrs ------------------ Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:52 PM Subject: [Mid-AtlRVwing] RV-A Nose gear AD There is a Mandatory Service Bulletin 07-11-09 for all Tricycle Gear RV,s. Check Van's site. Turtle __._,_.___ Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Members | Calendar Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Visit Your Grou p Y! Sports for TV Access it for free Get Fantasy Sports stats on your TV. Yahoo! Finance It's Now Personal Guides, news, advice & more. Need traffic? Drive customers With search ads on Yahoo! . __,_._,___


    Message 19


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    Time: 09:02:10 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD
    For 2 seaters only ----- Original Message ----- From: DejaVu To: RV10 Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 3:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fw: RV-A Nose gear AD FYI. Anh N591VU-105hrs ------------------ Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 8:52 PM Subject: [Mid-AtlRVwing] RV-A Nose gear AD There is a Mandatory Service Bulletin 07-11-09 for all Tricycle Gear RV,s. Check Van's site. Turtle __._,_.___ Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Members | Calendar Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Visit Your Group Y! Sports for TV Access it for free Get Fantasy Sports stats on your TV. Yahoo! Finance It's Now Personal Guides, news, advice & more. Need traffic? Drive customers With search ads on Yahoo! . __,_._,___


    Message 20


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    Time: 11:32:15 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Check oil door - top cowel - Hartwell flush clips
    From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
    I mounted my (one) Hartwell clip on the oil door. Looking at it two could be better. I got a little upward bowing from riveting on the clip. It fits great except that the ends flare up a bit (not desirable for holding the air in the cowl). I must admit that I do like the totally flush look on the cowling rather than those two icky fasteners. Also the Hartwell clips are stone simple and tough as nails. They weigh about 40 grams each I figured that I can put a z-strip over the clip and straighten out the bow in the door. This would add nominal weight. and then do the epoxy glass bit -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=146096#146096


    Message 21


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    Time: 11:38:35 PM PST US
    Subject: Tech Councelor - when is the right time
    From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
    I am a first time builder. I have done quite a bit of work on my Q/B fuse kit. I got my empenage approved by a T/C. When is another visit appropriate? -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=146097#146097




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