Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:15 AM - [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! (Matt Dralle)
1. 03:34 AM - Re: Dual battery (Bob Leffler)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) (Kelly McMullen)
3. 04:34 AM - Re: Dual battery (Bob-tcw)
4. 05:12 AM - Re: Dual battery (Jesse Saint)
5. 05:13 AM - engine breakin (David McNeill)
6. 05:20 AM - Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) (Deems Davis)
7. 05:25 AM - Re: Engine Choices (gary)
8. 05:36 AM - Re: Dual battery (Deems Davis)
9. 05:44 AM - Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) (Kelly McMullen)
10. 05:48 AM - Re: Engine Choices (Deems Davis)
11. 05:49 AM - Re: Dual battery (Bob Newman)
12. 06:07 AM - Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) (BPA)
13. 06:37 AM - bolt/nut torques (Bill & Tami Britton)
14. 06:52 AM - Re: Engine Choices (gary)
15. 06:55 AM - Re: engine breakin (Roger Standley)
16. 07:12 AM - Re: Engine Choices (RV10 4JF)
17. 07:39 AM - Re: Engine Choices (John Gonzalez)
18. 07:49 AM - Re: bolt/nut torques (Jesse Saint)
19. 07:57 AM - Re: bolt/nut torques (AirMike)
20. 08:06 AM - Re: bolt/nut torques ()
21. 08:16 AM - Re: Dual battery (Bill & Tami Britton)
22. 08:33 AM - Re: Re: Rivethead Aero (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
23. 08:57 AM - Alternate engines (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
24. 09:24 AM - engine on the ground (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
25. 09:42 AM - Off Topic - Name Spelling (Jesse Saint)
26. 10:15 AM - Re: Alternate engines (John W. Cox)
27. 10:44 AM - Re: Engine Choices (carlos)
28. 10:55 AM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (Vernon Smith)
29. 11:24 AM - Re: bolt/nut torques ()
30. 12:55 PM - Re: bolt/nut torques (Pascal)
31. 01:27 PM - Re: Rivethead Aero (jim berry)
32. 01:35 PM - Re: Rivethead - Aero (AirMike)
33. 01:38 PM - Re: Rivethead Aero (AirMike)
34. 01:38 PM - Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge (Dave Saylor)
35. 01:42 PM - Re: Dual battery (Vernon Smith)
36. 01:43 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (linn Walters)
37. 01:46 PM - Re: Dual battery (John Jessen)
38. 01:47 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (Rene Felker)
39. 01:54 PM - Information from Delta Hawk... (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
40. 01:54 PM - Re: Engine Choices (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
41. 01:55 PM - Re: Re: Engine Choices (Tim Olson)
42. 02:00 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (Perry, Phil)
43. 02:04 PM - Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
44. 02:04 PM - Re: engine breakin (David McNeill)
45. 02:05 PM - Re: Dual battery (Bob Newman)
46. 02:06 PM - Hartzell composite prop option (Pascal)
47. 02:09 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (Tim Olson)
48. 02:09 PM - Re: Engine Choices (Rick Sked)
49. 02:11 PM - Average climb rates of IO-540 (John Gonzalez)
50. 02:15 PM - Re: bolt/nut torques (carlos)
51. 02:33 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (Patrick ONeill)
52. 02:37 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (Ted French)
53. 02:48 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
54. 03:00 PM - Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling (John Dunne)
55. 03:30 PM - Holes in the lid (John Ackerman)
56. 04:21 PM - Re: Average climb rates of IO-540 (Randy DeBauw)
57. 04:43 PM - Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines (marcausman)
58. 05:36 PM - Re: Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
59. 05:48 PM - FW: bolt/nut torques (Bill Schlatterer)
60. 06:15 PM - Re: Dual battery (Bill Schlatterer)
61. 06:19 PM - Re: Dual battery (Bill Schlatterer)
62. 06:47 PM - Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) (Marcus Cooper)
63. 06:57 PM - Re: Average climb rates of IO-540 (Marcus Cooper)
64. 07:27 PM - Re: Hartzell composite prop option (John W. Cox)
65. 07:51 PM - Re: Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge (orchidman)
66. 07:55 PM - Re: Hartzell composite prop option (Deems Davis)
67. 09:04 PM - Re: Dual battery (Vernon Smith)
68. 09:48 PM - Re: Average climb rates of IO-540 (Tim Olson)
69. 09:53 PM - Re: Holes in the lid (Tim Olson)
70. 09:57 PM - Re: Dual battery -CG (Deems Davis)
71. 10:37 PM - Re: Holes in the lid (John Ackerman)
72. 10:37 PM - Avionics - Battery Bay door (AirMike)
73. 10:56 PM - Re: Hartzell composite prop option (John Ackerman)
74. 11:28 PM - Re: Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge (Dave Leikam)
75. 11:40 PM - Re: Avionics - Battery Bay door (Robin Marks)
76. 11:40 PM - Re: Dual battery -CG (Vernon Smith)
Message 0
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| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means a couple of things. Its my 44th birthday for
one, but I'm trying to forget about that... But, it also means that its that
last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser!
If you been drooling over one of the really sweet free gifts that are available
this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now is the time to jump on one!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution, but just keep putting it off, then
now is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists! Rather than the guy that,
er, ah, forgot (or whatever)... :-)
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far this
year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation
a float and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone will feel the same.
The List Contribution page is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Bill,
I=A1=AFm about ready to do the same.
Most people I believe are using the Odyssey 680.
Pictures of Dan Lloyd=A1=AFs solution can be found at:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/DansBatteryBox/index.html
Bob Condrey=A1=AFs can be found at:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/DualBatteries/Bob_Condreys_Batteries.jpg
Bob=A1=AFs solution appears to be the easiest to construct.
Specs are:
PC 680 Specs:
=A1=A4 Motorcycle / Powersports / Marine / Medium Duty
=A1=A4 Ahr (amp hours) @20 hr. rate 17 Ahr
=A1=A4 Pulse Discharge (HCA)
=A1=A4 5 sec. 680 A
=A1=A4 10 sec. 595 A
=A1=A4 20 sec. 525 A
=A1=A4 HCA @ 80=A8=ACF (27=A8=ACC) 370 A
=A1=A4 CA @ 32=A8=ACF (0=A8=ACC) 300 A
=A1=A4 CCA 220 A
=A1=A4 Reserve Capacity @ 25 A 25 min.
=A1=A4 Cycle Life (Deep cycle capability) 400 @ 100% DOD (depth
of
discharge)
=A1=A4 500 @ 80% DOD
=A1=A4 Temperature Range -40=A8=ACF (-40=A8=ACC) to 176=A8=ACF
(80=A8=ACC)
=A1=A4 Resistance at 1 kHz @ 77=A8=ACF 7m =A5=D8
=A1=A4 Short circuit current 1800 A
=A1=A4 Terminals Female threaded for M6 stainless bolt
=A1=A4 Max. installation torque 50 in-lb.
DIMENSIONS
=A1=A4 Length 7 =A8=F9 in. 7.27 in. 184.7 mm
=A1=A4 Width 3 1/16 in. 3.11 in. 79.0 mm
=A1=A4 Height* 6 5/8 in. 6.67 in. 169.4 mm
=A1=A4 Weight 15.4 lb. 7.0 kg
=A1=A4 *Height is measure to top of terminal
Other Features
=A1=A4 2 year replacement warranty in powersports, motorcycle
and
specialty applications
=A1=A4 Available with protective metal jacket (PC 680 MJ)
=A1=A4 Available with non-corrosive, brass automotive terminal
or
5/16=A1=B1 stainless steel stud
=A1=A4 Can be mounted in any orientation (not recommended for
inverted
use)
=A1=A4 12 year design life with 6 to 10 year service life
=A1=A4 Fully charged out of box
=A1=A4 2 year shelf life @ 77=A8=ACF (25=A8=ACC)
Bob
#40684
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill & Tami Britton
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dual battery
I'm ready to build my battery box and need to modify it to fit dual
battery's. Only problem is that I don't know which battery to use. Any
suggestions??? How does one decide on which battery is the "right"
battery, and where can I find measurements for these batteries so I know
how big to make the tray.
Thanks,
Bill
__________ NOD32 2694 (20071130) Information __________
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) |
That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3 hours
would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I suppose doing
high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts of power, then was
shut down immediately might be OK, as an alternative, with full cowling in
place. Deems, I know you would not get adequate cooling without the cooling
and some forward motion.
On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> Kelly, Deem,
>
> You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated with m
y
> engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the dyno instead of
> their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent in my deposit for the
> engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4 hours but my contract said 3
so
> I asked if they could run it another hour since it was still on the stand
.
> They said sure=85 for $500/hour.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dual battery |
Here's by dual battery installation. I've built a pair of equipment
shelves that attach to the Van's standard battery/ bellcrank center
plate.
Regarding the batteries. They are both Panasonic LCR SLA type
batteries. The main battery is a 28 Amp-hour. The auxilary battery is
a 17 amp-hour type. (although a 20 amp-hour is now available in the
exact same size). I've used the 28 amp-hour battery in our Glastar
for 3 years now and it has worked very well. When I did my search for
batteries I was looking for something equivalent to the Concord battery
that's been designed to mount in the RV-10 battery tray (Coincidently
this is the same size battery mount used in the Glastar). I found that
the Panasonic battery is dimmesionally similar to the Concord battery
(about 3/4" shorter in lenght, other dimesions the same) and about 75%or
less of the cost. Also the Panasonic batteries were available from
many distributors. (including Digi-key) Recently I found the 28 amp
hour battery for sale in PartsExpress for $74.50
(www.parts-express.com) although I have not tried to order it from them.
Panasonic 28 amp-hour (6.50x 4.92x 7.07") model# LC-x1228P
Digi-key part # P049-ND $95
Panasonic 17 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-RD1217P
Digi-key part #P174-ND $60
Panasonic 20 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-x1220P
Digi-key part #P231-ND $75
Regrads,
Bob Newman
www.tcwtech.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dual battery |
Bob,
Do you have some more close-ups of how you mounted the ends of your
table/shelf to the stiffeners and the battery tray? I really like the
look of that installation, probably replacing the ELT with the Strobe
PS for my needs.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Nov 30, 2007, at 7:32 AM, Bob-tcw wrote:
> Here's by dual battery installation. I've built a pair of
> equipment shelves that attach to the Van's standard battery/
> bellcrank center plate.
> Regarding the batteries. They are both Panasonic LCR SLA type
> batteries. The main battery is a 28 Amp-hour. The auxilary battery
> is a 17 amp-hour type. (although a 20 amp-hour is now available in
> the exact same size). I've used the 28 amp-hour battery in our
> Glastar for 3 years now and it has worked very well. When I did
> my search for batteries I was looking for something equivalent to
> the Concord battery that's been designed to mount in the RV-10
> battery tray (Coincidently this is the same size battery mount used
> in the Glastar). I found that the Panasonic battery is
> dimmesionally similar to the Concord battery (about 3/4" shorter in
> lenght, other dimesions the same) and about 75%or less of the
> cost. Also the Panasonic batteries were available from many
> distributors. (including Digi-key) Recently I found the 28 amp
> hour battery for sale in PartsExpress for $74.50 (www.parts-express.com
> ) although I have not tried to order it from them.
>
>
> Panasonic 28 amp-hour (6.50x 4.92x 7.07") model# LC-
> x1228P Digi-key part # P049-ND $95
> Panasonic 17 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-
> RD1217P Digi-key part #P174-ND $60
> Panasonic 20 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-
> x1220P Digi-key part #P231-ND $75
>
>
> Regrads,
> Bob Newman
> www.tcwtech.com
>
> <battery area-2.jpg><battery area-1.JPG>
Message 5
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FWIW My new (1997) Lycoming O360A4M sat in my study until 2003. I ran it for
about a total of 20 minutes on the ground prior to a high speed taxi test by
the test pilot to confirm ground handling and brakes. thereafter my Glastar
was flown by the test pilot for 1.3 hours at high power settings and landed.
There are 440 TT on the engine and it uses one quart between oil changes at
35 hour intervals. I will be talking to my Lycoming rep before first flight
in my 10 but in initial discussions he indicated that the ground runs should
be short and should be used to "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit.
I would expect no more than 30 minutes total ground run over about 6 starts.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) |
So how do the engine builders cool the engines when they run them on
their test stands for prolonged periods? The BPE dyno is inside IIRC,
and I recall numerous pictures of engine 'test cells' where the engine
is mounted on a trailer or the back of a truck. I'm not trying to be
argumentative, just trying to learn and understand. I think I'll give
Rhonda/Allen a shout and see if they've got any suggestions. Anybody
know how Aerosport does their test runs?
Deems
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3
> hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I
> suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts
> of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an
> alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not
> get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion.
>
> On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com
> <mailto:robin1@mrmoisture.com>> wrote:
>
> Kelly, Deem,
>
> You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated
> with my engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the
> dyno instead of their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent
> in my deposit for the engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4
> hours but my contract said 3 so I asked if they could run it
> another hour since it was still on the stand. They said sure for
> $500/hour.
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine that
catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to cool them.
It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent the hood from the
engine shop, install it on my engine while in the airplane and test run it
at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can thus check all instrumentation at
the same time. It is a boring job to sit there and be doing a full engine
run for that long but it is the best way IMHO. Don't forget to tie the tail
to a large tree, truck, or other immoveable object. It will jump over
chocks. Ask me how I know.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Choices
Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before flying,
without worrying about break-in of new rings?
Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that isn't at
least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing out with brand
fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want to glaze cylinders,
and you really don't know if engine is up to snuff, much less the airframe.
Thoughts?
Comments?
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dual battery |
Bill, I used dual PC 680's
here's a link to some photos :
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2039%20Control%20System/slides/DSC02860.html
click forward through a series of 6-7 photos.
Deems Davis # 406
'punch' list is down to 2 pages (from 3 1/2)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bill & Tami Britton wrote:
> I'm ready to build my battery box and need to modify it to fit dual
> battery's. Only problem is that I don't know which battery to use.
> Any suggestions??? How does one decide on which battery is the
> "right" battery, and where can I find measurements for these batteries
> so I know how big to make the tray.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> *
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) |
Test stands or dynos they use a "club" prop to move air, and a big pressure
plenum over the engine, and possibly some additional big fans to keep cyl
temps where they belong.
On Nov 30, 2007 6:19 AM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> So how do the engine builders cool the engines when they run them on
> their test stands for prolonged periods? The BPE dyno is inside IIRC,
> and I recall numerous pictures of engine 'test cells' where the engine
> is mounted on a trailer or the back of a truck. I'm not trying to be
> argumentative, just trying to learn and understand. I think I'll give
> Rhonda/Allen a shout and see if they've got any suggestions. Anybody
> know how Aerosport does their test runs?
>
> Deems
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
> > That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3
> > hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I
> > suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts
> > of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an
> > alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not
> > get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion.
> >
> > On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com
> > <mailto:robin1@mrmoisture.com>> wrote:
> >
> > Kelly, Deem,
> >
> > You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated
> > with my engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the
> > dyno instead of their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent
> > in my deposit for the engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4
> > hours but my contract said 3 so I asked if they could run it
> > another hour since it was still on the stand. They said sure=85 for
> > $500/hour.
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult
would it be to fabricate?
Deems
gary wrote:
>
> Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine
> that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to
> cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent
> the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the
> airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can
> thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to
> sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the
> best way IMHO. Dont forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or
> other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices
>
> Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
> Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before
> flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
> Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
> airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
> Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that
> isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing
> out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want
> to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to
> snuff, much less the airframe.
> Thoughts?
> Comments?
>
> *
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Dual battery |
Jesse,
I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend
I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side
step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to
put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on
there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will
get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a
RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to
my -10.
Best regards,
Bob Newman
www.tcwtech.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) |
Guys,
You need to keep your taxi tests (and all ground runs) as short as
possible. On the ground there is NOT enough cooling air to keep the
CHT's in check. Several 5-10 minute tests are much better than a couple
of lengthy runs around the airport. Need to keep CHT's in the 300-330
range while testing. Many a new/overhauled engine have had the jugs
removed to 'deglaze' the barrels because of extensive ground running.
We test new engines for 1 1/2 hours on our dynamometer. Additional time
is required whether it be on the dyno or in the airplane. Keep in mind
however that extensive ground running at any time can lead to what we
call coked cylinders.
When a cylinder gets hot, the oil 'cooks' and adheres itself to the
barrel. When this happens, instead of the rings scraping the oil off the
barrel (to dissipate the generated heat and to lubricate), the rings
hydroplane over the barrel. This leads to blo-by, dirty oil, and a lot
of wiping the belly down on your bird.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine)
So how do the engine builders cool the engines when they run them on
their test stands for prolonged periods? The BPE dyno is inside IIRC,
and I recall numerous pictures of engine 'test cells' where the engine
is mounted on a trailer or the back of a truck. I'm not trying to be
argumentative, just trying to learn and understand. I think I'll give
Rhonda/Allen a shout and see if they've got any suggestions. Anybody
know how Aerosport does their test runs?
Deems
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3
> hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I
> suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts
> of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an
> alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not
> get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion.
>
> On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com
> <mailto:robin1@mrmoisture.com>> wrote:
>
> Kelly, Deem,
>
> You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated
> with my engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the
> dyno instead of their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent
> in my deposit for the engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4
> hours but my contract said 3 so I asked if they could run it
> another hour since it was still on the stand. They said sure...
for
> $500/hour.
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | bolt/nut torques |
I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more
bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different
sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local
places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or
if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how
to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's
better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy???
Thanks in advance
Bill Britton
Message 14
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I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has
straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes
from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has
reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.
Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the
engine shop and measure.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices
Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult
would it be to fabricate?
Deems
gary wrote:
>
> Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine
> that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to
> cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent
> the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the
> airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can
> thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to
> sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the
> best way IMHO. Don't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or
> other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices
>
> Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
> Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before
> flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
> Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
> airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
> Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that
> isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing
> out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want
> to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to
> snuff, much less the airframe.
> Thoughts?
> Comments?
>
> *
>
> *
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: engine breakin |
Hi David,
Concur on the less than 5 min initial runs. Do you know what he meant by
"remove the set" of the fuel injection unit?
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill<mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 5:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: engine breakin
FWIW My new (1997) Lycoming O360A4M sat in my study until 2003. I ran
it for about a total of 20 minutes on the ground prior to a high speed
taxi test by the test pilot to confirm ground handling and brakes.
thereafter my Glastar was flown by the test pilot for 1.3 hours at high
power settings and landed. There are 440 TT on the engine and it uses
one quart between oil changes at 35 hour intervals. I will be talking to
my Lycoming rep before first flight in my 10 but in initial discussions
he indicated that the ground runs should be short and should be used to
"remove the set" of the fuel injection unit. I would expect no more than
30 minutes total ground run over about 6 starts.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
Hi all,
I've been lurking here for some time. I am hoping to order a tail kit at Sun n
Fun 08.
When I overhauled my TSIO-520 I made a hood so I could do an on aircraft engine
run-in, check engine parameters and setup the FI pressures. Setting up the pressures
is an involved process and time consuming.
I made a hood so the engine got proper air flow past the cylinder. In my case,
I made it out of plywood and metal flashing from Home Depot. I then set it on
my engine baffles and tied it to the engine. It worked pretty well. I followed
an article I found on the subject of ground running an engine.
I will take a picture tomorrow and see if I can post it.
JF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149634#149634
Message 17
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|
When you guys get one constructed and go to test it you should have a cam c
order running just in case something unexpected happens, like the whole thi
ng flies away, hits the windscreen, tumbles over the top of the plane, dama
ges the tail cone and then takes out the vertical stabilizer and then lands
on the horizontal stab.
At least with the film you could send it in to America's funniest home vide
os and win the prize and pay for a new plane.
JOhn G. 409 Just thinking out load
> From: speckter@comcast.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV1
0-List: Engine Choices> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 09:09:24 -0500> > --> RV10-L
ist message posted by: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>> > I do not have any p
ix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has> straight side walls that
go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes> from the rear baffle area
arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has> reinforcement angles to
stiffen the larger panels.> > Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I
will try and go over to the> engine shop and measure.> > Gary> 40274> > ---
--Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailt
o:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis> Sent: Fri
day, November 30, 2007 8:45 AM> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: R
eemsdavis@cox.net>> > Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like?
How difficult > would it be to fabricate?> > Deems> > gary wrote:> >> > Mo
st engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine > > th
at catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to > > cool t
hem. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent > > the hood
from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the > > airplane an
d test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can > > thus check all
instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to > > sit there and b
e doing a full engine run for that long but it is the > > best way IMHO. Do
n't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or > > other immoveable
object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.> >> > Gary> >> > 40274
> >> > --------------------------------------------------------------------
----> >> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-r
v10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > > McMullen> > *Sent:*
Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com> > *Su
bject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices> >> > Now, to break you away from the alt
ernate engine wars.................> > Has anyone considered a way to do ta
xi testing on your bird before > > flying, without worrying about break-in
of new rings?> > Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test f
lying a new > > airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled
engine.> > Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine t
hat > > isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxii
ng > > out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't wa
nt > > to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to > >
snuff, much less the airframe.> > Thoughts?> > Comments?> >> > *> >> > *>
====> > >
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: bolt/nut torques |
Bill,
The torque value ranges are in Section 5 of the plans, which you would
need to add to the driving torque to get the final torque settings. I
have two torque wrenches, one that handles around 10-150in/lbs and one
that handles foot lbs high enough to torque the wing attach bolts.
You will only use the big one a few times, so that might be worth just
borrowing, but the small one you will use a LOT, so I would recommend
getting a good one. Local stores would probably have them as you
mentioned, but don't get a junky one. I got mine from Avery, and not
the cheapest one they sell. I believe the one I have is made by the
same people that make the Snap-On version, but don't quote me there.
It is nice and solid and easy to handle. Most of them should work
right out of the box. Calibration needs to be done with equipment
that you won't have, but there are probably local shops that can
calibrate for you periodically. Again, I think it is worth getting a
good small wrench and maybe just planning on borrowing one for the few
big bolts that you need to torque. IIRC the 150in/lbs will serve for
up to AN5 bolts at least. There aren't very many over that size, just
places like engine mount, landing gear, and wing attach.
Hope this helps, as it is all from memory.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Nov 30, 2007, at 9:33 AM, Bill & Tami Britton wrote:
> I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using
> more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque
> different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's
> any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes,
> Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland,
> etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's
> usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench
> do I need to buy???
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bill Britton
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: bolt/nut torques |
I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-on.
I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
Message 20
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| Subject: | bolt/nut torques |
The torque values for the different size nuts are in the section 1-5 booklet
that came with your manual.
I got my torque wrench for about $60 at Sears. The only requirement is that
you need a wrench that measures in inch/pound.
Good luck
Steve Mills N750SM (reserved)
RV-10 40486 Slow-build Eggenfellner E-6T
Naperville, Illinois
Finishing kit
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill & Tami
Britton
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques
I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more
bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes
of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a
good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order
one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque
wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s)
of wrench do I need to buy???
Thanks in advance
Bill Britton
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dual battery |
Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really
like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some
pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work
something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I
think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is
3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions
of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4"
larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I
get them.
Thanks again for all the input,
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
>
> Jesse,
> I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend
> I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side
> step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to
> put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on
> there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will
> get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a
> RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to
> my -10.
>
> Best regards,
> Bob Newman
> www.tcwtech.com
>
>
> --
> 11/29/2007 11:10 AM
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivethead Aero |
_http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm_
(http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm)
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 23
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| Subject: | Alternate engines |
There ARE alternative engines out there that have been specifically
developed for aircraft. Some examples:
Bombardier 'V' engines
SMA diesel
One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a viable
market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't interested
in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work through
kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet.
Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for just
the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical backup.
TDT
40025
I love wheelpants!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 24
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| Subject: | engine on the ground |
Deems wrote:
>This has been on my mind a bit lately as well. If anybody has any ideas
>on this I'm all ears. Would there be enough cooling airflow with the
>aircraft tethered on the ground, uncowled?
No. Actually, they make sort of "extended hood" faux cowls to trap more
prop blast and direct it down over an engine for ground runs.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about
it for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike).
When sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most
people, including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the
way it is normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally
spelled, as in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of
which are girl spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's
names the way I am used to, and then realize I typed it different than
was on their incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only
one that notices this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse
is often misspelled (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-
> on.
> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>
> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Alternate engines |
I ran into the same dilemma with Hartzell at OSH '07. They will offer
the 3 blade composite to us, (now available on the Cirrus G3) only if
Richard VanGrunsven offers it as a kit built option through the company.
It has all the features of the aluminum Scmitar with less weight, more
climb power and less vibration transmission - plus the sex appeal.
John Cox -
40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines
There ARE alternative engines out there that have been specifically
developed for aircraft. Some examples:
Bombardier 'V' engines
SMA diesel
One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a viable
market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't interested
in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work through
kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet.
Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for just
the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical backup.
TDT
40025
I love wheelpants!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
Here's a site with a picture. Second to the last pic at bottom of page.
No affiliation...just a picture.
http://www.epi-eng.com/EPI_SrvcTOC.htm
Carlos in AZ
Do not archive
gary wrote:
>
> I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has
> straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes
> from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has
> reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.
>
> Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the
> engine shop and measure.
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:45 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices
>
>
> Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult
> would it be to fabricate?
>
> Deems
>
> gary wrote:
>
>> Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine
>> that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to
>> cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent
>> the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the
>> airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can
>> thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to
>> sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the
>> best way IMHO. Don't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or
>> other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> 40274
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
>> McMullen
>> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices
>>
>> Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
>> Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before
>> flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
>> Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
>> airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
>> Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that
>> isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing
>> out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want
>> to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to
>> snuff, much less the airframe.
>> Thoughts?
>> Comments?
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
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its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
I have noticed, but not here. I end up getting called Bernie a lot on the p
hone. The best one was a pizza place that listed me as Bernsmith. Oh well,
at least I still got the pizza:)
Vern Smith (324)
> From: jesse@saintaviation.com> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RV10
-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 11:22:50 -0500> >
he post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about > it fo
r a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike). > When sendi
ng an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most > people, including
myself, tend to write a person's name based on the > way it is normally spe
lled (or the way they think it might be normally > spelled, as in the case
of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of > which are girl spellings, FYI
). I have found myself writing people's > names the way I am used to, and t
hen realize I typed it different than > was on their incoming e-mail. Just
out of curiosity, and I the only > one that notices this? It probably bothe
rs me a lot more since Jesse > is often misspelled (unlike names like Tim,
Mike, Tom, etc.).> > do not archive> > Jesse Saint> Saint Aviation, Inc.> j
esse@saintaviation.com> Cell: 352-427-0285> Fax: 815-377-3694> > On Nov 30,
irMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>> >> > I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated
and works well.> > I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use
.> > I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-
> > on.> > I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
> >> > You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight> >> > --------> > O
SH '08 or Bust> > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff> >> >> >> >> > R
ead this topic online here:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php
==================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i=92m Init
iative now.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: bolt/nut torques |
Van's put a chart in the manual. It's in the booklet that consisted of the first
five chapters.
You can get the wrenches anywhere. You tend to get what you pay for. Also, be
carefull to ensure whatever wrench you get that the value you need isn't on the
end of the range the extend. The closer you get to the end range of the wrench,
the less accurate they are.
I was lazy and purchased mine from Avery. I also got a digital one with a buzzer,
so I don't have to bend over backwards to read the display.
>
> From: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
> Date: 2007/11/30 Fri AM 09:33:29 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques
>
> I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more bolt/nut
hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes of hardware
down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a good torque
wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland,
etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's
usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need
to buy???
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bill Britton
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: bolt/nut torques |
Section 5 page 13 has Torques
Buy a in-lbs torque wrench through Amazon, or other source, they tend to
be less than HD or Lowes
Comes calibrated and get whatever size you already use with your tools,
1/4 or 3/8- all the same since you are doing very little torque on the
bolts (like 2 ft lbs on AN3 bolts)
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill & Tami Britton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques
I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using
more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque
different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any
local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears,
etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't
know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's usable out of the box
it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy???
Thanks in advance
Bill Britton
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Rivethead Aero |
I ordered door pins and handles, static ports on Oct. 29. Although I got no response
to an email, I was pleasantly surprised when UPS delivered everything today.
Beautiful workmanship.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149679#149679
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Rivethead - Aero |
Got my set of door pins today. I am a happy camper (7 wks)
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149681#149681
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Rivethead Aero |
Got my set today - Happy camper (7 wks) :D :D :D :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149682#149682
Message 34
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| Subject: | Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge |
Attention fuselage builders!
We're finalizing dates for another AirCrafters composite workshop for RVs.
Last time we trimmed the top of a willing builder's -10 and did all the
fitting so everyone could see how to approach it. I'd like to do the same
thing again, so if anyone would like to have their top trimmed and fit free
of charge, please get in touch with me. We won't rivet it in place so if
you're not quite ready to have it permanently installed, that's OK.
I'm considering the weekend of January 26/27, 2008, but I'm flexible. The
closer to Watsonville the better; I have a trailer available if needed to
get the parts here and back.
As soon as we have a top to fit I'll be back with firm dates and details
about the class.
Any takers?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Message 35
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Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturmen
t panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells us
ed in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system.
Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top)
> From: william@gbta.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-Li
st: Dual battery> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600> > --> RV10-List me
ssage posted by: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>> > Thanks for the
information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really > like the lo
oks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some > pictures of
it please let me know. This would be a good time to work > something like t
hat into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I > think I'll proba
bly go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is > 3.11". Do I need
to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions > of the 2 batt
eries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4" > larger on eac
h side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I > get them.> >
Thanks again for all the input,> Bill Britton> > > ----- Original Message
----- > From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.c
om>> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual
n.com>> >> > Jesse,> > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting.
This weekend> > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pi
ctures of side> > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site.
I forgot to> > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to
be on> > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will>
> get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a> > RV-
10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to> > my
-10.> >> > Best regards,> > Bob Newman> > www.tcwtech.com> >> >> >> >> >>
==================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate.- Join i
n.
www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling |
Actually, I've never thought about it! I've lived with misspellings all
my life so it really doesn't bother me. Most often they spell it with a
Y instead of an I. No big deal. It's kinda fun to rib folks that have
known me a ling time ..... but just forget to get it right.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about
> it for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike).
> When sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most
> people, including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the
> way it is normally spelled (or the way they think it might be
> normally spelled, as in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the
> last 3 of which are girl spellings, FYI). I have found myself
> writing people's names the way I am used to, and then realize I typed
> it different than was on their incoming e-mail. Just out of
> curiosity, and I the only one that notices this? It probably bothers
> me a lot more since Jesse is often misspelled (unlike names like Tim,
> Mike, Tom, etc.).
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
>> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
>> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-
>> on.
>> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>>
>> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 37
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Bob, nice. Curious about the materials used for the large shelf and the
calculated extra weight.
John Jessen
40328
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 4:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
Here's by dual battery installation. I've built a pair of equipment
shelves that attach to the Van's standard battery/ bellcrank center plate.
Regarding the batteries. They are both Panasonic LCR SLA type
batteries. The main battery is a 28 Amp-hour. The auxilary battery is a 17
amp-hour type. (although a 20 amp-hour is now available in the exact same
size). I've used the 28 amp-hour battery in our Glastar for 3 years
now and it has worked very well. When I did my search for batteries I was
looking for something equivalent to the Concord battery that's been designed
to mount in the RV-10 battery tray (Coincidently this is the same size
battery mount used in the Glastar). I found that the Panasonic battery is
dimmesionally similar to the Concord battery (about 3/4" shorter in lenght,
other dimesions the same) and about 75%or less of the cost. Also the
Panasonic batteries were available from many distributors. (including
Digi-key) Recently I found the 28 amp hour battery for sale in
PartsExpress for $74.50 (www.parts-express.com) although I have not tried
to order it from them.
Panasonic 28 amp-hour (6.50x 4.92x 7.07") model# LC-x1228P
Digi-key part # P049-ND $95
Panasonic 17 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-RD1217P
Digi-key part #P174-ND $60
Panasonic 20 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-x1220P
Digi-key part #P231-ND $75
Regrads,
Bob Newman
www.tcwtech.com
Message 38
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
Jesse wrote.....
"Just out of curiosity, and I the only
one that notices this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse
is often misspelled (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.)."
I never notice...unless it is my name. :)
But it is fun to keep the mystery going....is it a guy or a girl?
My significant other's name is Andee.......and we are of the opposite
sex.....so am I a guy or a girl.
Alternate spellings for my name.
Renee
Ranea
Idiot
Hey you
Stupid
I think I need some sleep
Do not Archive
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling
The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about
it for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike).
When sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most
people, including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the
way it is normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally
spelled, as in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of
which are girl spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's
names the way I am used to, and then realize I typed it different than
was on their incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only
one that notices this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse
is often misspelled (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-
> on.
> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>
> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Information from Delta Hawk... |
Our current work on the DeltaHawk engine is focused on final testing of
production level parts and the endurance testing of the engine as a unit. That
testing has uncovered a couple of issues that were not evident in some of the
previous R&D components.
A friend of mine was on the Delta Hawk's waiting list, but he was killed in
an unrelated accident recently...he built a Velosity and had recently changed
to a Lyca engine from the Delta Hawk he's spec'd. Pete was in the process
of completing his fly off on the Lyca but then was killed in a tow plane
accident, unrelated to experimentals. I did a note to Delta Hawk after cruising
their updated site...actually I'd sort of mentally written them off a couple
of years ago. Rip seems to indicate that they are continuing to make some
progress...their delivering in 2008, sort of reminds me of them delivering in
2006...I hope they are able to make it happen but doubt that it may be of
interest to current RV 10 builders...but thought I'd share it with the group as
FYI stuff.
>From Rip:
As part of moving towards production, we changed our casting supplier from
an R&D level source to a production level source. Testing has uncovered some
unsatisfactory issues with some parts, and modifications have been made to
both design and process to resolve the problems. We believe we are close to
resolution, although the issue will not be closed until all testing is complete.
The result of these issues is a slip to our schedule, with the exact amount
of slippage not known until final testing is complete. We will communicate an
update to our plan at that time. We still believe we will be shipping
engines in the first half of 2008.
Thank you for your interest in DeltaHawk engines. If you have further
questions, please let me know.
Sincerely,
Rip Edmundson
DeltaHawk Engines, Inc.
Racine, Wisconsin USA
rip@deltahawkengines.com
Patrick S
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
I sent a note to Delta Hawk recently...and got this reply from Rip...fyi for
you all...I asked for an update since it's been a few years since I cruised
their site and noticed that they had updated it recently...was wondering if
they were any closer to building and shipping...seem it's the maybe
answer...but I really hope they do deliver in 2008 to someone...
Patrick
Our current work on the DeltaHawk engine is focused on final testing of
production level parts and the endurance testing of the engine as a unit. That
testing has uncovered a couple of issues that were not evident in some of the
previous R&D components.
As part of moving towards production, we changed our casting supplier from
an R&D level source to a production level source. Testing has uncovered some
unsatisfactory issues with some parts, and modifications have been made to
both design and process to resolve the problems. We believe we are close to
resolution, although the issue will not be closed until all testing is complete.
The result of these issues is a slip to our schedule, with the exact amount
of slippage not known until final testing is complete. We will communicate an
update to our plan at that time. We still believe we will be shipping
engines in the first half of 2008.
Thank you for your interest in DeltaHawk engines. If you have further
questions, please let me know.
Sincerely,
Rip Edmundson
DeltaHawk Engines, Inc.
Racine, Wisconsin USA
rip@deltahawkengines.com
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
Sounds great for the self-overhauler.
The easy way is for the person just buying an engine to have
it run by the place that built it for them. Aerosport ran
mine as part of their procedures, so when I got it, the timing
was perfect, the fuel flow and pressures were perfect, and
all was well. They even document it at intervals and
provide you with the paperwork.
But, if you're a DIY guy on the rebuilding, you did just
great.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV10 4JF wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've been lurking here for some time. I am hoping to order a tail kit
> at Sun n Fun 08.
>
> When I overhauled my TSIO-520 I made a hood so I could do an on
> aircraft engine run-in, check engine parameters and setup the FI
> pressures. Setting up the pressures is an involved process and time
> consuming.
>
> I made a hood so the engine got proper air flow past the cylinder. In
> my case, I made it out of plywood and metal flashing from Home Depot.
> I then set it on my engine baffles and tied it to the engine. It
> worked pretty well. I followed an article I found on the subject of
> ground running an engine.
>
> I will take a picture tomorrow and see if I can post it.
>
> JF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149634#149634
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
LOL
My fingers have an auto-pilot mode and I catch myself typing sounding
out words while I am typing. So you never know what you're going to
get.
Sometimes I end up with sentences like this, because they sounded right
when I typed it.
Eye like two fly. Eye hope ewe dew too.
I usually try to get it correct, but in the haste of typing, reading,
and moving on to the next pressing item - I tend to let a handful of
these errors slip through.
:)
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com]
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling
The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about
it for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike).
When sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most people,
including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the way it is
normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally spelled, as
in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of which are girl
spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's names the way I
am used to, and then realize I typed it different than was on their
incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only one that notices
this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse is often misspelled
(unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-
> on.
> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>
> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines |
Marc,
I'm assuming you have a similar screen for those of us that have an electrical
setup similar to the Subie guys but have the Lycosaur. I'm running dual LSE
III's so I am just as dependant as the Subies (but I have redundancy) :-).
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of marcausman
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 3:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines
Just wanted to post an update that we (Vertical Power) are currently working on
support for an additional aux battery and also support for the Subaru engine.
If you are installing a second battery on a single bus system, we can monitor and
display the voltage of that battery. Additionally, low voltage alarms can be
triggered off that battery.
We've had good demand from customers who are also installing the Eggenfellner Subaru
engine (mostly in -7s and -10s) and we are now working on support for that
engine. The system will display coolant temp and gearbox temp. There is also
a wiring diagram developed specifically for the unique needs of the Subaru engine
(found under support/docs on our web site).
You can see a mock up of the Subaru screen here http://www.verticalpower.com/forums/showthread.php?p=727#post727
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149427#149427
Message 44
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He indicated that the diaphragms/seals in the injection unit would have
taken a set and that the procedure was to rerun the engine at about 1700 rpm
while moving the mixture from full rich to idle cutoff alternately about
once every two seconds for about 5- 10 times then shutdown.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine breakin
Hi David,
Concur on the less than 5 min initial runs. Do you know what he meant by
"remove the set" of the fuel injection unit?
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 5:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: engine breakin
FWIW My new (1997) Lycoming O360A4M sat in my study until 2003. I ran it for
about a total of 20 minutes on the ground prior to a high speed taxi test by
the test pilot to confirm ground handling and brakes. thereafter my Glastar
was flown by the test pilot for 1.3 hours at high power settings and landed.
There are 440 TT on the engine and it uses one quart between oil changes at
35 hour intervals. I will be talking to my Lycoming rep before first flight
in my 10 but in initial discussions he indicated that the ground runs should
be short and should be used to "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit.
I would expect no more than 30 minutes total ground run over about 6 starts.
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Dual battery |
Bill, I'll be editing the pictures I have and putting them up on my
web site this weekend. I'll post the link when it's ready.
_Bob Newman
www.tcwtech.com
>>> william@gbta.net 11/30/2007 9:24 AM >>>
<william@gbta.net>
Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I
really
like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get
some
pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work
something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions,
I
think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width
is
3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact
dimensions
of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe
1/4"
larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when
I
get them.
Thanks again for all the input,
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
>
> Jesse,
> I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This
weekend
> I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of
side
> step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot
to
> put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on
> there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I
will
> get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning
a
> RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications
to
> my -10.
>
> Best regards,
> Bob Newman
> www.tcwtech.com
>
>
> --
> 11/29/2007 11:10 AM
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Hartzell composite prop option |
don't forget the increased price tag too! If the price were right I
would buy it, but sex appeal is not worth paying too much more to have.
When I was at AOPA in Palm Springs last year I spoke with Hartzell and
asked if they had any idea of performance for a RV-10, the guy kindly
told me there wasn't much there for the price difference..
with all that said.. being Van's already has a Hartzell prop option I
can't see why they wouldn't consider adding another prop to the options
list, would probably be a win-win scenario doing so.
John- take a trip over to Van's and see what you can do. ;-)
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternate engines
I ran into the same dilemma with Hartzell at OSH '07. They will offer
the 3 blade composite to us, (now available on the Cirrus G3) only if
Richard VanGrunsven offers it as a kit built option through the company.
It has all the features of the aluminum Scmitar with less weight, more
climb power and less vibration transmission - plus the sex appeal.
John Cox -
40600
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines
There ARE alternative engines out there that have been specifically
developed for aircraft. Some examples:
Bombardier 'V' engines
SMA diesel
One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a
viable market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't
interested in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work
through kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet.
Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for
just the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical
backup.
TDT
40025
I love wheelpants!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling |
I of course get "Olsen" a lot. Didn't bother me much before
but the more my name floods the various lists, the more I
would like it to be corrected to the "ON" ending...just
since it'll be accurate at least.
I suppose if I got that wish though, people would just
spell it "Tym Olson". ;)
I feel for you Jesse, or is it Jesye? ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about it
> for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike). When
> sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most people,
> including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the way it is
> normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally spelled, as
> in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of which are girl
> spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's names the way I
> am used to, and then realize I typed it different than was on their
> incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only one that notices
> this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse is often misspelled
> (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
>> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
>> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-on.
>> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>>
>> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
Thanks for that laugh John, I had a visual of that as I read your post.
Rick Sked
40185 do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:29:23 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Choices
When you guys get one constructed and go to test it you should have a cam c
order running=C2-just in case something unexpected happens, like the whol
e thing flies away, hits the windscreen, tumbles over the top of the plane,
damages the tail cone and then takes out the vertical stabilizer and then
lands on the horizontal stab.
=C2-
At least with the film you could send it in to America's funniest home vide
os and win the prize and pay for a new plane.
=C2-
JOhn G. 409 Just thinking out load
> From: speckter@comcast.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Choices
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 09:09:24 -0500
>
>
> I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has
> straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes
> from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It h
as
> reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.
>
> Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the
> engine shop and measure.
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:45 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices
>
>
> Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult
> would it be to fabricate?
>
> Deems
>
> gary wrote:
> >
> > Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine
> > that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to
> > cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent
> > the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the
> > airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can
> > thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to
> > sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the
> > best way IMHO. Don't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or
> > other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.
> >
> > Gary
> >
> > 40274
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> >
> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> > McMullen
> > *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM
> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> > *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices
> >
> > Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars.................
> > Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before
> > flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?
> > Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new
> > airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.
> > Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that
> > isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing
> > out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want
> > to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to
> > snuff, much less the airframe.
> > Thoughts?
> > Comments?
> >
> > *
> >
> > *
>
>
> <=======================
&g=======
>
>
>
====
=======================
Message 49
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| Subject: | Average climb rates of IO-540 |
Hey you guys that are already flying their RV10s with the Lycomings. Once y
ou have departed your airport area and start doing your slow long accent to
cruise altitude, say a eight to twelve thoousand foot climb, considering y
ou are all trying to not stress the engine,(No tail walking), trying to kee
p temps managable, what climb rate do you use along with power setting.
Thanks,
JOhn G. 409
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: bolt/nut torques |
Here's a couple more places you can get wrenches from....
1. www.toolsource.com
2. www.emaxaction.com
I purchased a CDI torque wrench from www.emaxaction.com in 7/2006.
Detailed Description:
Maker: CDI Torque Products(a Snap-On Co.)
Model: 2502LDIN (0-250 in lb)
3/8" drive, 0-250 in. lb. Dial Torque Wrench
Dual Scale, Inch Pounds and Newton meter
Certificate of Calibration traceable to N.I.S.T..
Accuracy +/- 4% of indicated value, from 20-100% of full scale.
Shipped in molded plastic box.
List Price: $221.26
Emax Price: $140.21 (w/ free shipping)
This is still a dial wrench and should still have the range to torque
all the hardware on the airplane. I hope so anyways!
Carlos in AZ
Pascal wrote:
> Section 5 page 13 has Torques
>
> Buy a in-lbs torque wrench through Amazon, or other source, they tend
> to be less than HD or Lowes
> Comes calibrated and get whatever size you already use with your
> tools, 1/4 or 3/8- all the same since you are doing very little torque
> on the bolts (like 2 ft lbs on AN3 bolts)
>
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Bill & Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 6:33 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: bolt/nut torques
>
> I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start
> using more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to
> torque different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if
> there's any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot,
> Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from
> Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque
> wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally,
> what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy???
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bill Britton
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 51
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
Boy, you guys got it easy. Sure beats the names I get called. (I can't
repeat them here as this is a family venue.)
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 N690CT
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling
I of course get "Olsen" a lot. Didn't bother me much before
but the more my name floods the various lists, the more I
would like it to be corrected to the "ON" ending...just
since it'll be accurate at least.
I suppose if I got that wish though, people would just
spell it "Tym Olson". ;)
I feel for you Jesse, or is it Jesye? ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about it
> for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike). When
> sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most people,
> including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the way it is
> normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally spelled, as
> in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of which are girl
> spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's names the way I
> am used to, and then realize I typed it different than was on their
> incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only one that notices
> this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse is often misspelled
> (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
>> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
>> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-on.
>> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>>
>> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
My dad had a business and the name was L C French Ltd. Do Not Archive
on the legal papers. He once got a letter addressed to Elsie French...
Ted French C-FXCS
RV-10 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: November 30, 2007 8:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling
The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about
it for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike).
When sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most
people, including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the
way it is normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally
spelled, as in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of
which are girl spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's
names the way I am used to, and then realize I typed it different than
was on their incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only
one that notices this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse
is often misspelled (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-
> on.
> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>
> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>
>
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Off Topic - Name Spelling |
You know, it might not be a bad thing. In a world where employers routinely Google
prospects names, at least they won't associate you with that crazy guy Tym
Olsen that built his own airplane in his garage. HA!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling
I of course get "Olsen" a lot. Didn't bother me much before
but the more my name floods the various lists, the more I
would like it to be corrected to the "ON" ending...just
since it'll be accurate at least.
I suppose if I got that wish though, people would just
spell it "Tym Olson". ;)
I feel for you Jesse, or is it Jesye? ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about it
> for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike). When
> sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most people,
> including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the way it is
> normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally spelled, as
> in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of which are girl
> spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's names the way I
> am used to, and then realize I typed it different than was on their
> incoming e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only one that notices
> this? It probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse is often misspelled
> (unlike names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
>> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
>> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-on.
>> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>>
>> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Name Spelling |
I think I notice Tims last name misspelt the most.
I'm running a small wager on the side that we'll one day see every vowel
used.
I had a disgruntled customer once and it took me a few conversations with
him to work out why.
His name was Ed Gustavson. I misheard it and used to refer to him as Edgar,
Stavson. Not good for business.
I get Dunn, Dunnit, Dunny or my favorite from the Asian telemarketers, " Mr
Dune"
John Dunne 40315
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 2:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic - Name Spelling
>
> The post below brought this up again, but I have been thinking about it
> for a long time (nothing personal taken or meant by this, Mike). When
> sending an e-mail, and especially when replying, I see most people,
> including myself, tend to write a person's name based on the way it is
> normally spelled (or the way they think it might be normally spelled, as
> in the case of Jesse/Jessie/Jessi/Jessy - the last 3 of which are girl
> spellings, FYI). I have found myself writing people's names the way I am
> used to, and then realize I typed it different than was on their incoming
> e-mail. Just out of curiosity, and I the only one that notices this? It
> probably bothers me a lot more since Jesse is often misspelled (unlike
> names like Tim, Mike, Tom, etc.).
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:57 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well.
>> I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use.
>> I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap- on.
>> I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200
>>
>> You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 55
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| Subject: | Holes in the lid |
Here's a heads up, folks
We're installing an Avidyne TAS600 active traffic system. The ideal
(for antenna performance) place to mount the top traffic antenna
(there is also one on the bottom of the fuselage) is on the high
point of the fuselage, over the doors. I emailed Van's to ask about
the structural suitability of that location, and was told:
> On the C-1001 Cabin Cover there are areas of solid laminate, areas
> of 1
> inch thick foam core, and areas of 1/4 inch honeycomb core.
> Drilling of
> holes (except those called for in the RV-10 manual) through any
> area of
> solid laminate or 1 inch thick core is not allowed as it will
> adversely affect the
> structural integrity of the cabin cover. Drilling of holes in the
> area of 1/4 inch
> core is acceptable so long as the edge of the hole(s) is no closer
> than 2
> inches from the edge of the honeycomb.
Clearly my proposed location was structurally unacceptable. I infer
from this that one should not mount even GPS antennae through the
foam core.
Ken suggested that we
> ...mount the antenna further aft so as to be in the area of
> honeycomb core. The cabin cover provides roll-over protection to the
> occupants in the event of a crash and is, therefore, very much a
> structurally
> critical component.
We are using an overhead plenum that has provision for a DVD player
or whatever right behind the foam core area at the front of the
honeycomb area.
We will put the top traffic antenna right there with a 101/2" X 13"
ground plane of 0.025" Al. The 10 1/2" dimension smaller than
specified (minimum 11 3/4"), but our top antenna primarily looks fore
and aft, and we are told that it will do. Compromises, compromises.
Good thing I've worked with engineers my whole life. We shall see how
well we can make it work - I expect to post again on this some years
in the future when we're flying ;-)
It sure is great to get that kind of support! Prompt, too.
BTW, we got fantastic support from Avidyne/Ryan, as well. Good thing-
this is a tough install for those of us inexperienced with RF devices
and avionics in general.
Message 56
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| Subject: | Average climb rates of IO-540 |
John, my wife and I flew to Reno in September. I was climbing through
13,500ft at 1000 ft per min. Full throttle. I don't remember the
manifold psi. I chuckle every time I hear the "this prop climbs
better". The 10 climbs just fine and I have the old original style
Hartzell. Randy 40006
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Average climb rates of IO-540
Hey you guys that are already flying their RV10s with the Lycomings.
Once you have departed your airport area and start doing your slow long
accent to cruise altitude, say a eight to twelve thoousand foot climb,
considering you are all trying to not stress the engine,(No tail
walking), trying to keep temps managable, what climb rate do you use
along with power setting.
Thanks,
JOhn G. 409
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines |
Michael,
Yes, we are working on a software feature now (the hardware has always supported
this) that allows you to display the voltage on a second battery. It's the same
display as for the subie but with the standard Lycoming gauges. The aux battery
feature is independent of the engine type, really. There are two pins on
the VP-200 Control Unit that can be used to measure voltage of external things
- in your case the aux battery.
There is a document called "Dual Lightspeed - How to wire a dual Lightspeed ignition" in the docs section of our web site here: http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html. It shows how to connect the dual LSE to the mag switch, wire the two batteries and wire the aux battery volt meter. It's basically identical to diagram in the LSE manual, and shows how to include the VP-200.
How's the new shop? I hope it has a heater.. [Laughing]
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149763#149763
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines |
Glad to hear you are keeping us old Lycosaurs in mind. :-) And I'm really wishing
I would have spent more time getting the furnace installed before now!
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of marcausman
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines
Michael,
Yes, we are working on a software feature now (the hardware has always supported
this) that allows you to display the voltage on a second battery. It's the same
display as for the subie but with the standard Lycoming gauges. The aux battery
feature is independent of the engine type, really. There are two pins on
the VP-200 Control Unit that can be used to measure voltage of external things
- in your case the aux battery.
There is a document called "Dual Lightspeed - How to wire a dual Lightspeed ignition" in the docs section of our web site here: http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html. It shows how to connect the dual LSE to the mag switch, wire the two batteries and wire the aux battery volt meter. It's basically identical to diagram in the LSE manual, and shows how to include the VP-200.
How's the new shop? I hope it has a heater.. [Laughing]
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149763#149763
Message 59
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| Subject: | bolt/nut torques |
Bill, maybe these will help. Note pipe and AN values.
Bill S
7a Ark
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill & Tami
Britton
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques
I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more
bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes
of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a
good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order
one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque
wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s)
of wrench do I need to buy???
Thanks in advance
Bill Britton
Message 60
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|
Vern, this is in my 7 but the same concept probably works in the 10.
Battery is suspended directly under the AHRS. The bus right beside it is
the Aux Bat which feeds separate switches for the EFIS which allows it to be
powered on before/while starting or in an emergency but disconnected from
the main bus. The Aux Bat also charges from the main bus during normal
operations through a D25 diode. As I remember it, the battery is a
Panasonic P212 (7ah) recommended on the AE list.
Hope this helps.
Bill S
7a finishing
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery
Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturment
panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells used
in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system.
Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top)
_____
> From: william@gbta.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600
>
>
> Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I
really
> like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some
> pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work
> something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I
> think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is
> 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact
dimensions
> of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4"
> larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I
> get them.
>
> Thanks again for all the input,
> Bill Britton
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
>
>
> >
> > Jesse,
> > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend
> > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side
> > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to
> > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on
> > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will
> > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a
> > RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to
> > my -10.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Bob Newman
> > www.tcwtech.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 11/29/2007 11:10 A===========
>
>
>
_____
Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in!
Message 61
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|
Forgot this one. It shows the rear and front hold down brackets. On the
front, it is just a little plate that is bolted in to hold it in place.
Flush rivet on the inside.
Bill S
7a
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery
Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturment
panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells used
in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system.
Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top)
_____
> From: william@gbta.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600
>
>
> Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I
really
> like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some
> pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work
> something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I
> think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is
> 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact
dimensions
> of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4"
> larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I
> get them.
>
> Thanks again for all the input,
> Bill Britton
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
>
>
> >
> > Jesse,
> > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend
> > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side
> > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to
> > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on
> > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will
> > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a
> > RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to
> > my -10.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Bob Newman
> > www.tcwtech.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 11/29/2007 11:10 A===========
>
>
>
_____
Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in!
Message 62
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| Subject: | Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) |
I did the same thing with my engine from Aerosport. It showed up with 3
hours on it. However, I did very little taxi testing on it since the
airplane was so easy to handle. It will fly without much effort and
accelerates rapidly so be cautious with any intent to do high speed taxi
testing unless you are ready to take it airborne.
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine)
That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3 hours
would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I suppose doing
high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts of power, then was
shut down immediately might be OK, as an alternative, with full cowling in
place. Deems, I know you would not get adequate cooling without the cooling
and some forward motion.
On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
Kelly, Deem,
You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated with my
engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the dyno instead of
their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent in my deposit for the
engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4 hours but my contract said 3 so
I asked if they could run it another hour since it was still on the stand.
They said sure. for $500/hour.
Message 63
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| Subject: | Average climb rates of IO-540 |
John,
I typically climb out at 2500 rpm and full throttle at 130 KIAS leaning
above 6,000'. I get 750-1200 fpm depending on weight. Low fuel and solo
it's more like 2000 fpm at 110-120 KIAS just for fun. CHTs are well below
400. Above 9,000 I like to keep moving forward so I accept only getting
about 500 fpm.
Marcus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Average climb rates of IO-540
Hey you guys that are already flying their RV10s with the Lycomings. Once
you have departed your airport area and start doing your slow long accent to
cruise altitude, say a eight to twelve thoousand foot climb, considering you
are all trying to not stress the engine,(No tail walking), trying to keep
temps managable, what climb rate do you use along with power setting.
Thanks,
JOhn G. 409
Message 64
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|
| Subject: | Hartzell composite prop option |
If he comes to the RV-10 dinner next Saturday, you can bet I will invest
the time. I don't want to rekindle the MT discussion so I will let this
simmer until then.
As most of you can currently conclude, Nothing absolutely nothing can
match the 2 blade Hartzell Scimitar when property balanced for
smoothness, climb and cruise on the D4A5. For sex appeal, the vote goes
to a custom painted AeroComp and we await Deems first flight with
patience.
John C.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell composite prop option
don't forget the increased price tag too! If the price were right I
would buy it, but sex appeal is not worth paying too much more to have.
When I was at AOPA in Palm Springs last year I spoke with Hartzell and
asked if they had any idea of performance for a RV-10, the guy kindly
told me there wasn't much there for the price difference..
with all that said.. being Van's already has a Hartzell prop option I
can't see why they wouldn't consider adding another prop to the options
list, would probably be a win-win scenario doing so.
John- take a trip over to Van's and see what you can do. ;-)
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternate engines
I ran into the same dilemma with Hartzell at OSH '07. They will
offer the 3 blade composite to us, (now available on the Cirrus G3) only
if Richard VanGrunsven offers it as a kit built option through the
company. It has all the features of the aluminum Scmitar with less
weight, more climb power and less vibration transmission - plus the sex
appeal.
John Cox -
40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines
There ARE alternative engines out there that have been
specifically developed for aircraft. Some examples:
Bombardier 'V' engines
SMA diesel
One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as
a viable market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't
interested in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work
through kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet.
Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000
for just the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical
backup.
TDT
40025
I love wheelpants!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 65
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|
| Subject: | Re: Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge |
I was born in Watsonville so I have a real magnetic draw to the town and airport.
I am finishing section 29 this weekend so the timing is perfect for a Jan
fitting.
Let me know if we can make it work. :D
Gary
Oh, by the way I am in Oklahoma [Laughing] Maybe we could get Kirk or Scottie
to 'transport' it to Watsonville.
Sorry I just couldn't resist. You don't know how much I would like to attend.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149799#149799
Message 66
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell composite prop option |
I saw an article today on aero-news today where Hartzell has anounced a
new 74" _*2 bld*_ COMPOSITE prop. Designed for the Diamond DA40'. They
say it's 2 kts slower but weighs 16 lbs less than it's Aluminum cousin.
It also costs $11k !
Deems
John W. Cox wrote:
>
> If he comes to the RV-10 dinner next Saturday, you can bet I will
> invest the time. I dont want to rekindle the MT discussion so I will
> let this simmer until then.
>
> As most of you can currently conclude, Nothing absolutely nothing can
> match the 2 blade Hartzell Scimitar when property balanced for
> smoothness, climb and cruise on the D4A5. For sex appeal, the vote
> goes to a custom painted AeroComp and we await Deems first flight with
> patience.
>
> John C.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Pascal
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 1:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Hartzell composite prop option
>
> don't forget the increased price tag too! If the price were right I
> would buy it, but sex appeal is not worth paying too much more to have.
>
> When I was at AOPA in Palm Springs last year I spoke with Hartzell and
> asked if they had any idea of performance for a RV-10, the guy kindly
> told me there wasn't much there for the price difference..
>
> with all that said.. being Van's already has a Hartzell prop option I
> can't see why they wouldn't consider adding another prop to the
> options list, would probably be a win-win scenario doing so.
>
> John- take a trip over to Van's and see what you can do. ;-)
>
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* John W. Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 9:24 AM
>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Alternate engines
>
> I ran into the same dilemma with Hartzell at OSH 07. They will
> offer the 3 blade composite to us, (now available on the Cirrus
> G3) only if Richard VanGrunsven offers it as a kit built option
> through the company. It has all the features of the aluminum
> Scmitar with less weight, more climb power and less vibration
> transmission plus the sex appeal.
>
> John Cox
>
> 40600
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 8:24 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Alternate engines
>
> There ARE alternative engines out there that have been
> specifically developed for aircraft. Some examples:
>
> Bombardier V engines
>
> SMA diesel
>
> One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a
> viable market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they
> werent interested in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said
> they may work through kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing
> yet.
>
> Of course, these engines arent cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for
> just the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with
> mechanical backup.
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
> I love wheelpants!
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> Aurora Flight Sciences
>
> tdt@aurora.aero <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *< Month This
> Lists Your Support Please>< FREE AWESOME Some Get>< Click Raiser. Fund List
Annual the is November>< more out find to below link Contribution>< Incentive
> Free Terrific year?s this>< Web>http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> *<
> generous your for you Thank>< Dralle,>< Forum Email RV10-List The>< Navigator
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Message 67
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Bill,
This is exactly what I was looking for or something close to it. Originally
, I was planning on two equal sized batteries behind the luggage area, but
just didn't need that kind of capacity or weight in an Aux battery. Plus I
like the idea of the shorter power leads with it mounted near the panel.
Thanks,
Vern
do not archive
From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.netTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE:
RV10-List: Dual batteryDate: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 20:14:10 -0600
Vern, this is in my 7 but the same concept probably works in the 10. Batte
ry is suspended directly under the AHRS. The bus right beside it is the Au
x Bat which feeds separate switches for the EFIS which allows it to be powe
red on before/while starting or in an emergency but disconnected from the m
ain bus. The Aux Bat also charges from the main bus during normal operatio
ns through a D25 diode. As I remember it, the battery is a Panasonic P212
(7ah) recommended on the AE list.
Hope this helps.
Bill S
7a finishing
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon SmithSent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:4
3 AMTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery
Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturmen
t panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells us
ed in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system. V
ern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top)
> From: william@gbta.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-Li
st: Dual battery> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600> > --> RV10-List me
ssage posted by: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>> > Thanks for the
information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really > like the lo
oks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some > pictures of
it please let me know. This would be a good time to work > something like t
hat into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I > think I'll proba
bly go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is > 3.11". Do I need
to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions > of the 2 batt
eries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4" > larger on eac
h side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I > get them.> >
Thanks again for all the input,> Bill Britton> > > ----- Original Message
----- > From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.c
om>> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual
n.com>> >> > Jesse,> > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting.
This weekend> > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pi
ctures of side> > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site.
I forgot to> > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to
be on> > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will>
> get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a> > RV-
10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to> > my
-10.> >> > Best regards,> > Bob Newman> > www.tcwtech.com> >> >> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> > -- > > 11/29/2007 11:10 A============
> > >
Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in!
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Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: Average climb rates of IO-540 |
Hmmm,
Hmmmm, John, you make it sounds so painful to climb to altitude....
It's not hard to keep the temps manageable, but I'd be willing to
bet that 90% of builders could do better on their baffle sealing
than they do their first time around. It's also not a plane
that even fits the description of "slow long ascent"...the plane
is a practically a rocket when alone, and faster in climb than
almost any production plane in it's class.
As for heat, now that it's near winter I'm starting to think I
may have to seal up some of the cowl...my CHT's wouldn't even
go over 285 a couple days ago, with lots of power on running
ROP. Even in the heat of 90+ degree summer days, keeping it
cool with good baffling is a breeze...you just have to keep
the breeze moving. Climb rates are great at 100-115kts. They
start to decrease a bit of course as you increase airspeed, but
even on the hottest days you probably won't climb at more
than 120kts. It's almost scary how steep the vertical climb
angle is on a solo pilot IO-540 RV-10 if you maintain 100-110kts.
As for climb settings, I know when I compared my climb to Vic's
that I climbed quite a bit faster using full power and fine pitch
than he did pulled back to 25 squared on his MT. I did find
though that when I pulled mine back to 25 squared we climbed
basically the same. My norm is to climb all out full forward
on the prop and throttle on the way up to cruise altitudes,
but once I'm in cruise, I typically only go to 2500RPM if
I'm going to climb from that altitude up.
You'd really be shocked at the climb rates if you came out and
went for a ride.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> John,
>
> I typically climb out at 2500 rpm and full throttle at 130 KIAS
> leaning above 6,000. I get 750-1200 fpm depending on weight. Low fuel
> and solo its more like 2000 fpm at 110-120 KIAS just for fun. CHTs are
> well below 400. Above 9,000 I like to keep moving forward so I accept
> only getting about 500 fpm.
>
> Marcus
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Gonzalez
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 9:23 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Average climb rates of IO-540
>
> Hey you guys that are already flying their RV10s with the Lycomings.
> Once you have departed your airport area and start doing your slow long
> accent to cruise altitude, say a eight to twelve thoousand foot climb,
> considering you are all trying to not stress the engine,(No tail
> walking), trying to keep temps managable, what climb rate do you use
> along with power setting.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G. 409
>
> * *
Message 69
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| Subject: | Re: Holes in the lid |
John,
Did you inquire about what if you drilled an antenna hole or other
type of hole, dug out some of the foam and filled it with epoxy
with structural filler to go out into the foam cavity slightly,
and then drilled a hole through your new hard spot for the
antenna? This isn't an engineered answer, but it seems that it
should be pretty easy to get back some structure in the cabin top
by just reinforcing the area you drilled through...and it's an
easy process to do.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Here's a heads up, folks
>
> We're installing an Avidyne TAS600 active traffic system. The ideal (for
> antenna performance) place to mount the top traffic antenna (there is
> also one on the bottom of the fuselage) is on the high point of the
> fuselage, over the doors. I emailed Van's to ask about the structural
> suitability of that location, and was told:
>
>> On the C-1001 Cabin Cover there are areas of solid laminate, areas of 1
>> inch thick foam core, and areas of 1/4 inch honeycomb core. Drilling of
>> holes (except those called for in the RV-10 manual) through any area of
>> solid laminate or 1 inch thick core is not allowed as it will
>> adversely affect the
>> structural integrity of the cabin cover. Drilling of holes in the area
>> of 1/4 inch
>> core is acceptable so long as the edge of the hole(s) is no closer than 2
>> inches from the edge of the honeycomb.
>
> Clearly my proposed location was structurally unacceptable. I infer from
> this that one should not mount even GPS antennae through the foam core.
>
> Ken suggested that we
>> ...mount the antenna further aft so as to be in the area of
>> honeycomb core. The cabin cover provides roll-over protection to the
>> occupants in the event of a crash and is, therefore, very much a
>> structurally
>> critical component.
>
>
> We are using an overhead plenum that has provision for a DVD player or
> whatever right behind the foam core area at the front of the honeycomb
> area.
> We will put the top traffic antenna right there with a 101/2" X 13"
> ground plane of 0.025" Al. The 10 1/2" dimension smaller than specified
> (minimum 11 3/4"), but our top antenna primarily looks fore and aft, and
> we are told that it will do. Compromises, compromises. Good thing I've
> worked with engineers my whole life. We shall see how well we can make
> it work - I expect to post again on this some years in the future when
> we're flying ;-)
>
> It sure is great to get that kind of support! Prompt, too.
>
> BTW, we got fantastic support from Avidyne/Ryan, as well. Good thing-
> this is a tough install for those of us inexperienced with RF devices
> and avionics in general.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 70
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| Subject: | Re: Dual battery -CG |
Just be aware, that the -10 is already Nose Heavy, and placing another
battery fwd of the CG is probably not going to help.
Deems
Vernon Smith wrote:
> Bill,
>
> This is exactly what I was looking for or something close to it.
> Originally, I was planning on two equal sized batteries behind the
> luggage area, but just didn't need that kind of capacity or weight in
> an Aux battery. Plus I like the idea of the shorter power leads with
> it mounted near the panel.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vern
> do not archive
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 20:14:10 -0600
>
> Vern, this is in my 7 but the same concept probably works in the
> 10. Battery is suspended directly under the AHRS. The bus right
> beside it is the Aux Bat which feeds separate switches for the
> EFIS which allows it to be powered on before/while starting or in
> an emergency but disconnected from the main bus. The Aux Bat also
> charges from the main bus during normal operations through a D25
> diode. As I remember it, the battery is a Panasonic P212 (7ah)
> recommended on the AE list.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Bill S
> 7a finishing
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Vernon Smith
> *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 10:43 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Dual battery
>
> Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the
> insturment panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the
> smaller gel cells used in alarm systems seems like a nice backup
> battery for the EFIS system.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top)
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > From: william@gbta.net
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
> > Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600
> >
> <william@gbta.net>
> >
> > Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays.
> Bob, I really
> > like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you
> get some
> > pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to
> work
> > something like that into my build. As for the battery tray
> dimensions, I
> > think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the
> width is
> > 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact
> dimensions
> > of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray
> maybe 1/4"
> > larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later
> on when I
> > get them.
> >
> > Thanks again for all the input,
> > Bill Britton
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Jesse,
> > > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend
> > > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the
> pictures of side
> > > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I
> forgot to
> > > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on
> > > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will
> > > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a
> > > RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing
> modifications to
> > > my -10.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Bob Newman
> > > www.tcwtech.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > 11/29/2007 11:10 A===========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate.
> Join in!
> <http://www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline>
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the im
> Initiative now. Join in!
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>
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Message 71
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| Subject: | Re: Holes in the lid |
Tim,
I had planned to do just that except that I planned to "line" the
holes with Al tubing. However, the structural analysis of complex
curved sandwich structures with cutouts (doors, windows, windshield)
is waaay beyond my capabilities. I have no way of knowing whether a
hard point there would make the structure as a whole weaker or
stronger, for example.
Now where am I gonna put those darn GPS/WX antennae? Darn!
John
On Nov 30, 2007, at 10:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Did you inquire about what if you drilled an antenna hole or other
> type of hole, dug out some of the foam and filled it with epoxy
> with structural filler to go out into the foam cavity slightly,
> and then drilled a hole through your new hard spot for the
> antenna? This isn't an engineered answer, but it seems that it
> should be pretty easy to get back some structure in the cabin top
> by just reinforcing the area you drilled through...and it's an
> easy process to do.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Ackerman wrote:
>> <johnag5b@cableone.net>
>> Here's a heads up, folks
>> We're installing an Avidyne TAS600 active traffic system. The
>> ideal (for antenna performance) place to mount the top traffic
>> antenna (there is also one on the bottom of the fuselage) is on
>> the high point of the fuselage, over the doors. I emailed Van's to
>> ask about the structural suitability of that location, and was told:
>>> On the C-1001 Cabin Cover there are areas of solid laminate,
>>> areas of 1
>>> inch thick foam core, and areas of 1/4 inch honeycomb core.
>>> Drilling of
>>> holes (except those called for in the RV-10 manual) through any
>>> area of
>>> solid laminate or 1 inch thick core is not allowed as it will
>>> adversely affect the
>>> structural integrity of the cabin cover. Drilling of holes in the
>>> area of 1/4 inch
>>> core is acceptable so long as the edge of the hole(s) is no
>>> closer than 2
>>> inches from the edge of the honeycomb.
>> Clearly my proposed location was structurally unacceptable. I
>> infer from this that one should not mount even GPS antennae
>> through the foam core.
>> Ken suggested that we
>>> ...mount the antenna further aft so as to be in the area of
>>> honeycomb core. The cabin cover provides roll-over protection to the
>>> occupants in the event of a crash and is, therefore, very much a
>>> structurally
>>> critical component.
>> We are using an overhead plenum that has provision for a DVD
>> player or whatever right behind the foam core area at the front of
>> the honeycomb area.
>> We will put the top traffic antenna right there with a 101/2" X
>> 13" ground plane of 0.025" Al. The 10 1/2" dimension smaller than
>> specified (minimum 11 3/4"), but our top antenna primarily looks
>> fore and aft, and we are told that it will do. Compromises,
>> compromises. Good thing I've worked with engineers my whole life.
>> We shall see how well we can make it work - I expect to post again
>> on this some years in the future when we're flying ;-)
>> It sure is great to get that kind of support! Prompt, too.
>> BTW, we got fantastic support from Avidyne/Ryan, as well. Good
>> thing- this is a tough install for those of us inexperienced with
>> RF devices and avionics in general.
>
>
Message 72
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| Subject: | Avionics - Battery Bay door |
I just installed my F/G Cabin top this week and I am presently working on the doors.
I was looking at the area behind the baggage bulkhead and thinking that
it would be great to have a door back there (between the longeron and the z-stringer)
to check on your battery, strobe power source, avionics and pitch servo.
Any ideas out there if the upper skin could be reinforced to support such a
door, or even if such an idea is practical ? Has anyone done such an installation?
It would seem a great convenience as compared to opening the baggage bulkhead
to check on the battery.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149815#149815
Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell composite prop option |
On Nov 30, 2007, at 8:26 PM, John W. Cox wrote:
> As most of you can currently conclude, Nothing absolutely nothing
> can match the 2 blade Hartzell Scimitar when property balanced for
> smoothness, climb and cruise on the D4A5.
John, where's the "approved data" on that? [grin} To my mind the big
advantages of the Scimitar over the 3 blade Aerocomposites are (1)
cost and (2) ease of cowl removal and reinstall. Aerocomposites looks
better to me for takeoff, climb, quietness, smoothness, and ground
clearance. Their engineering is impressive, indeed, at least to my
eye. My wiser half worries about paint adhesion. Hard call for us,
but we're with Deems on this one. Aerocomposites has our deposit.
> ...we await Deems first flight with patience.
Boy do we ever! I'm really impressed with his willingness to get
everything right as possible before flight. You go, Deems!
John Ackerman 40458 do not archive
Message 74
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| Subject: | Re: Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge |
I am interested.
Dave Leikam
40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor
To: rv10-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no
charge
Attention fuselage builders!
We're finalizing dates for another AirCrafters composite workshop for
RVs. Last time we trimmed the top of a willing builder's -10 and did
all the fitting so everyone could see how to approach it. I'd like to
do the same thing again, so if anyone would like to have their top
trimmed and fit free of charge, please get in touch with me. We won't
rivet it in place so if you're not quite ready to have it permanently
installed, that's OK.
I'm considering the weekend of January 26/27, 2008, but I'm flexible.
The closer to Watsonville the better; I have a trailer available if
needed to get the parts here and back.
As soon as we have a top to fit I'll be back with firm dates and
details about the class.
Any takers?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Message 75
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| Subject: | Avionics - Battery Bay door |
We placed an access panel on the rear bulkhead as partially detailed in
the top photo:
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/AeroxO2.htm
I actually have better photos at home but you get the idea. Large access
door that can be removed by pulling the pins if you needed to work back
there for an extended period of time
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Avionics - Battery Bay door
I just installed my F/G Cabin top this week and I am presently working
on the doors. I was looking at the area behind the baggage bulkhead and
thinking that it would be great to have a door back there (between the
longeron and the z-stringer) to check on your battery, strobe power
source, avionics and pitch servo. Any ideas out there if the upper skin
could be reinforced to support such a door, or even if such an idea is
practical ? Has anyone done such an installation? It would seem a great
convenience as compared to opening the baggage bulkhead to check on the
battery.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149815#149815
Message 76
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| Subject: | Dual battery -CG |
The battery up front would weigh only 5 lbs. and will hopefully be counter
balanced by the main battery in the tail which will be an Odyssey PC925 wei
ghing in about 3 lbs heaver than the OEM Concord. Also my planned panel is
stock Van's and fairly sparse. However, if it need to go in the tail for CG
it can go in the tail.
Vern
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 22:57:21 -0700> From: deemsdavis@cox.net> To: rv10
-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery -CG> > --> RV10-L
ist message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>> > Just be aware, t
hat the -10 is already Nose Heavy, and placing another > battery fwd of the
CG is probably not going to help.> > Deems> > Vernon Smith wrote:> > Bill,
> > > > This is exactly what I was looking for or something close to it. >
> Originally, I was planning on two equal sized batteries behind the > > lu
ggage area, but just didn't need that kind of capacity or weight in > > an
Aux battery. Plus I like the idea of the shorter power leads with > > it mo
unted near the panel.> > > > Thanks,> > > > Vern > > do not archive> >> > -
-----------------------------------------------------------------------> >
From: billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com> > Subje
ct: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery> > Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 20:14:10 -0600> >
> > Vern, this is in my 7 but the same concept probably works in the> > 10.
Battery is suspended directly under the AHRS. The bus right> > beside it i
s the Aux Bat which feeds separate switches for the> > EFIS which allows it
to be powered on before/while starting or in> > an emergency but disconnec
ted from the main bus. The Aux Bat also> > charges from the main bus during
normal operations through a D25> > diode. As I remember it, the battery is
a Panasonic P212 (7ah)> > recommended on the AE list.> > > > Hope this hel
ps. > > > > Bill S> > 7a finishing> >> > ----------------------------------
--------------------------------------> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of>
> *Vernon Smith> > *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 10:43 AM> > *To:* rv1
0-list@matronics.com> > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Dual battery> >> > Has an
yone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the> > insturment p
anel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the> > smaller gel cells us
ed in alarm systems seems like a nice backup> > battery for the EFIS system
.> > > > Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top) > >> >> >> >> > --------------
----------------------------------------------------------> >> > > From: wi
lliam@gbta.net> > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com> > > Subject: Re: RV10-List
: Dual battery> > > Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600> > >> > > --> RV1
0-List message posted by: "Bill & Tami Britton"> > <william@gbta.net>> > >>
> > Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays.> > Bob,
I really> > > like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If yo
u> > get some> > > pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good
time to> > work> > > something like that into my build. As for the battery
tray> > dimensions, I> > > think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length i
s 7.27" and the> > width is> > > 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and
build the box to exact> > dimensions> > > of the 2 batteries or is it accep
table to just build the tray> > maybe 1/4"> > > larger on each side so that
I know the batteries will fit later> > on when I> > > get them.> > >> > >
Thanks again for all the input,> > > Bill Britton> > >> > >> > > ----- Orig
inal Message -----> > > From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>> > > To: <r
v10-list@matronics.com>> > > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM> > > S
ubject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery> > >> > >> > > > --> RV10-List message
posted by: "Bob Newman" <rnewman@lutron.com>> > > >> > > > Jesse,> > > > I
have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend> > > > I wa
s planning on editing those pictures along with the> > pictures of side> >
> > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I> > forgot to
> > > > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on>
> > > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will> > >
> get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a> > >
> RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing> > modifications
to> > > > my -10.> > > >> > > > Best regards,> > > > Bob Newman> > > > www.
tcwtech.com> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >>
> > > --> > > > 11/29/2007 11:10 A============> >
>> > >> > >> >> >> > ------------------------------------------------------
------------------> > Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the mor
e we donate.> > Join in!> > <http://www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TA
GLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline>> >> >> > *> >> > href="http://www.matronic
s.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.c
om">http://forums.matronics.com> >> > *> >> >> > --------------------------
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giving. Download Messenger and join the i=92m > > Initiative now. Join in!
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