Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: Fuel bushing re-think (Bob-tcw)
2. 06:08 AM - Re: Fuel bushing re-think (Jesse Saint)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: Fuel bushing re-think (Deems Davis)
4. 08:14 AM - Re: Fuel bushing re-think (MauleDriver)
5. 01:40 PM - Re: Cost/labor saving ideas (Rick Sked)
6. 01:42 PM - Re: Aerosport Testimonial - long (Randy Lervold)
7. 02:06 PM - Re: Cost/labor saving ideas (Chris and Susie McGough)
8. 08:10 PM - Re: Cost/labor saving ideas (John Gonzalez)
9. 10:40 PM - Re: Cost/labor saving ideas (AirMike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel bushing re-think |
Bill, I think that what you suggested is the most straight forward way
to run the lines (from the tunnel to the wing) except that then there is
a stub of aluminum tubing sticking out of the side of the fuselage just
asking to get bent over and ruined up till the wings are attached. I
know I would end up wrecking it. So that drove my decision to have a
bulkhead ftg at the wing root.
-Bob
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel bushing re-think |
Bob,
The beauty of just having a fitting at the tunnel and going straight
from there to the tank is that you can fit the line more or less, and
then remove it until you are ready to install the wing. Then it isn't
in the way and in danger of being messed up. That is one of the
reasons I don't like the plans version because once you get the line
fit and run inside the tunnel, it is almost impossible to remove. The
one bulkhead fitting solves this problem.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 9, 2007, at 6:51 AM, Bob-tcw wrote:
> Bill, I think that what you suggested is the most straight forward
> way to run the lines (from the tunnel to the wing) except that then
> there is a stub of aluminum tubing sticking out of the side of the
> fuselage just asking to get bent over and ruined up till the wings
> are attached. I know I would end up wrecking it. So that drove
> my decision to have a bulkhead ftg at the wing root.
>
> -Bob
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel bushing re-think |
Jesse, I didn't install a bulkhead fitting at the tunnel. I went with
the grommet, but I did terminate the fuel line midway under the seat so
that it should be a little easier to attach the final section to the
wing. (I'll let you know how that works in a couple of days)
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2037%20Fuel%20System/slides/DSC02804.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jesse Saint wrote:
> Bob,
>
> The beauty of just having a fitting at the tunnel and going straight
> from there to the tank is that you can fit the line more or less, and
> then remove it until you are ready to install the wing. Then it isn't
> in the way and in danger of being messed up.
> *
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel bushing re-think |
MauleDriver wrote:
> We are definitely on the same page on that point...if I can't just
> figure out how to keep those steps from wrecking my shins. (I know
> there are solutions - but I'm having some shin-kill stickers made up).
>
> Thanks Bob - just wanted to check.
>
> Bill (do not archive) Watson
>
>
> Bob-tcw wrote:
>> Bill, I think that what you suggested is the most straight forward
>> way to run the lines (from the tunnel to the wing) except that then
>> there is a stub of aluminum tubing sticking out of the side of the
>> fuselage just asking to get bent over and ruined up till the wings
>> are attached. I know I would end up wrecking it. So that drove
>> my decision to have a bulkhead ftg at the wing root.
>>
>> -Bob
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cost/labor saving ideas |
Run the order form for the emmpenage kit through the shredder. That will save you
a ton of money. :)
Rick Sked
40185
Looking for some jolt to finish this thing up.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "tganster" <tganster@mwwb.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 8, 2007 7:07:07 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Cost/labor saving ideas
I am interested in starting a thread showing cost saving ideas you have found while
building your plane. I found two ideas from other RV builders while searching
the web. I am a fairly new builder and I apologize if these are old hat.
Rather than spending the money on alodine by the gallon and the hazard shipping
to go with it, I purchase 2 lbs. 14-2 iridite from a local racing supply house
for $59.00. The dry powder mixes with water to make up to 40 gals. of alodine.
I also built a c-frame dimpler from some scrap I had laying around the shop.
I mounted my rivet gun to the top of the piston for a very efficient way of dimpling
skins. It really works quite well. See attachment.
Please add your cost/labor savers to the list.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151235#151235
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03349_451.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aerosport Testimonial - long |
Tim,
Looks like your thread got hi-jacked onto Sub talk. Anyway, I know what you
mean about the fine folks at Aero Sport Power. I had a similar experience
with the O-360 in my RV-8, write-up is here if anyone's interested...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Engine.htm
Needless to say when it came time to buy the IO-320 for my RV-3B there was
simply no question where I'd go, and my second engine experience with them
was exactly the same... outstanding!
Cheers,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aerosport Testimonial - long
>
> Just had to post this after this week's experience...
>
> About a year ago when I went to replace my spark plugs
> and inspect them, I found clean oil in my #4 cylinder.
> That of course got me worried at the time, but talking
> to a few people they said that if the piston ring
> gaps line up, the oil can bleed through and this may
> be what happened as they felt it's something they've
> heard of before. At ACI time, I did my compression
> test and that was also my lowest cylinder, at 74, while
> my others were at 77-79 in general. Considering
> that this is still good compression and everything
> was running great, I just kept my eyes and ears open
> and went on. Considering how well it ran, and how low
> the oil consumption was, it wasn't alarming. That
> lower plug in that cylinder also had more deposits,
> that I attributed to the oil fouling. I switched
> to fine-wire plugs back then too.
>
> One note I should add is that I probably also ran my
> engine less hard during break-in than I should have,
> so I've always wondered if I did a good job on the
> break in or not. Seems to be ok.
>
> On one of my last couple flights, I was run LOP and
> noticed #4 had a blip of rise and fall in EGT,
> and the a subsequent drop in CHT. Running LOP,
> a rising EGT would mean a richening mixture. And,
> a rising EGT can also be because of an ignition
> issue where a plug isn't firing as well. I flew 5
> or 6 more hours and monitored it. The CHT on that
> cylinder stayed slightly lower than before, and
> the graphs I downloaded from my Chelton showed a
> difference in the curve I got when I leaned that
> cylinder. Of course, with cylinder suspicions,
> ignition suspicions, and even injector suspicions,
> it was time for some troubleshooting. Adding to that,
> my previously very good oil consumption was now
> drastically up, to something like 1 qt in 2 hours,
> as opposed to 1 qt in maybe 8-15.
>
> I thought it best to troubleshoot the external things
> first, and then the cylinder, since I knew them
> a little better. The Lightspeed was super consistent
> in run-up, and wasn't a problem because a coil failure
> would affect 2 cylinders. The mag was a possibility,
> but how does a mag just affect one cylinder...other than
> the ignition lead. I pulled the harness and
> checked the cap inside the mag and nothing was
> odd. I also pulled the injector and cleaned it and
> found nothing. I replaced my cheap top plugs, and
> cleaned the bottom. No significant deposits except
> for on #4 again. So, it was on to the cylinder.
>
> I called Bart at Aerosport and he gave me a
> troubleshooting tip to do in addition to a compression
> test again. Run the engine and make sure it's fully
> warmed up and operating fine in flight. Then land
> and pull both the top and bottom plugs and look into
> the cylinder. With dual plugs you can shine a light
> in one and see into the other and see a LOT.
> Look for consistency among cylinders in how the
> piston looks in regards to dryness. There should be
> a slightly damp ring around the outer edge of the piston,
> but dry towards the center. Bingo! My #4 piston was
> all oily damp, but the others were normal with that
> faint ring. Compression was still 74 or so. So now
> I knew where that oil was going.
>
> Pulled the cylinder, which was very easy (total job
> about 1.5 hours for that cylinder). Upon removal,
> my local A&P who came to hang out and offer advice
> noted an issue with the rings. Additionally, the
> gap on the top ring was at the 6 o'clock position
> and the bottom was at the 6:30 or 7 o'clock, so
> indeed the rings had lined up quite a bit.
> Prior to removing the cylinder, I had talked to
> Bart and he assured me that he'd take care of it.
> Not that he'd do it cheap, or he'd try to fit it
> in, but that he'd take care of it for me, and turn
> it around the same day. I decided that with Christmas
> coming and my father coming who would want to go flying,
> that I'd overnight it to Aerosport. Customs caused
> me a delay, so it took 2 business days...oh well.
> But, Bart got the cylinder, checked it out and found
> that the top ring was bad. It sounded to me like
> there was a gouge out of it or something. He said
> that would cause more pressure differentials in the
> engine and cause increased oil use, and affect the
> job the other rings would do too. He also touched up
> my valves, replaced the piston, and weighed the items,
> and basically reworked the cylinder to be ready for
> a new break-in period. He turned it around same-day,
> as promised, and shipped it FedEx Priority overnight
> right back to me, along with a 1-cylinder seal kit,
> and LOTS more hardware than I asked for or needed,
> including 6 new exhaust gaskets. Not only that,
> but he REFUSED to take payment for it, or for the
> upcharge for quick shipping. He just wanted to make
> sure I was going to have it working good. I feel
> so guilty that I'm going to try to figure out a
> way to send them something they can't return.
> I haven't flown with it yet, but heck, even if
> something is still wrong, I know it ain't the cylinder.
>
> So what did I learn? LOTS! #1, when it comes time to
> overhaul my engine, it's going back to Bart. How could
> I NOT do that....I've never heard them do anyone wrong,
> and they certainly did more for me than I would have
> asked for. #2, there's a beauty in the simplicity of a
> Lycoming....when I had a cylinder issue, I just removed
> that one cylinder. It was easy. And, there are places
> that will be happy to overhaul things and get them
> back the same week. In fact, in my case it went to
> a different country and came back within a half week.
> Try doing a single-cylinder job on an auto conversion,
> and having the job be this small. #3, Don't skimp on
> running your engine hard on break-in. I'm not sure if
> I ever did a good job, so I'm glad to get a 2nd chance
> this time. #4, I'm very glad that with what I have,
> there's plenty of god advice out there on troubleshooting.
> It's nice having a "standard" engine, because sometimes
> it's that one simple tip that can save you lots of
> time. #5, I ABSOLUTELY could not have noticed the
> inconsistency, as it still ran well, without a full
> 6-cylinder engine monitor that feeds my Chelton and allows
> me to download the data and graph it with "EGview".
> I was able to take some flights, and crank up the scale
> on my EGT's and stretch the graph out and track down
> the exact instance in time when my EGT's rose, and KNOW
> with CERTAINTY that it was something that was not right.
> The engine still performed really good, but without
> knowing my past temperature trend history (i.e. little
> things, like num 3 was usually just a few degrees cooler
> than num 4, but now 3 was 5 deg to 25 deg low) I would
> have never flagged the engine and decided to dig in and
> diagnose something that you couldn't really feel. The
> engine logs and display were a HUGE benefit.
>
> I just thought I'd share. It was a whole new experience
> for me.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cost/labor saving ideas |
Easy
Get everything you need in one shipment except for engine and prop (prop has
life)
Do not change things that do not need to be changed. Do not fill your panel
with stuff you will never use.
Happy to talk figures if you email direct
vhmum@bigpond.com
regards Chris
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cost/labor saving ideas |
Very interesting set up you have for your C frame.
How do you get your rivet gun to convert from an automatic to a single fire
?
It looks like you have your dies in upside down, with them that way, you wi
ll be missing a lot of holes and making some unwanted ones. I think it woul
d be helpful to also make your table extended out beyond where the dies are
to help support the material. Don't forget to put down the carpet on the t
able.
Be certain you know where and when to cut corners on cost.
Am I the fish that took the bait?
> Subject: RV10-List: Cost/labor saving ideas> From: tganster@mwwb.net> Dat
e: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 19:07:07 -0800> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> > --> RV10-
List message posted by: "tganster" <tganster@mwwb.net>> > I am interested i
n starting a thread showing cost saving ideas you have found while building
your plane. I found two ideas from other RV builders while searching the w
eb. I am a fairly new builder and I apologize if these are old hat.> Rather
than spending the money on alodine by the gallon and the hazard shipping t
o go with it, I purchase 2 lbs. 14-2 iridite from a local racing supply hou
se for $59.00. The dry powder mixes with water to make up to 40 gals. of al
odine.> I also built a c-frame dimpler from some scrap I had laying around
the shop. I mounted my rivet gun to the top of the piston for a very effici
ent way of dimpling skins. It really works quite well. See attachment.> Ple
ase add your cost/labor savers to the list.> > > > > Read this topic online
here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151235#151235> > >
> > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03349_451.jpg> >
==> > >
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cost/labor saving ideas |
Some great tools to get you through with your brain intact
1. 3M scotch brite wheel don't even think of starting without it $55
2. Harbor Freight Die grinder - about $10 - use with the Norton cutoff disks -
Gets you through the cabin top and widows (burned out my first one). Remember
to lubricate
3. Dremmel tool - 10.8Volt lithium battery operated - $49 Wal Mart. Powerful enough
and high speed. Buy the $5 carbide drum bit (awesome)
4. Black and Decker Dragster Belt Sander. Light enough to control with one hand
while you control the work with the other hand. The 3"x21" belts really wear
well and the pointy tip on the Dragster UPC 28877-47945 lets you get into the
tight spots on the door frame ($49-$69) Depot/WalMart
5. Harbor Freight Electronic digital caliper (the better one) made out of metal.
Runs $12-25
6. Dental-Surgical tools - Curved dental pick - dental mirror - scissors - Haemostatic
forceps (the kind that lock) (at OSH $1-$2 each)
If I had owned all of these when I started it would have been easier [Laughing]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151409#151409
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