Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:40 AM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
2. 07:21 AM - Re: Garmin 480 (johngoodman)
3. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Garmin 480 (Rick Sked)
4. 08:29 AM - Re: Weight after paint (dmaib@mac.com)
5. 02:09 PM - Garmin's GNS480 Becomes An Orphan (Patrick Pulis)
6. 05:14 PM - Re: Garmin 480 (johngoodman)
7. 05:42 PM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (johngoodman)
8. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (David McNeill)
9. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Marcus Cooper)
10. 06:17 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Pascal)
11. 06:20 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (Larry Rosen)
12. 07:17 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (David Maib)
13. 07:22 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
14. 07:34 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (David McNeill)
15. 07:36 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (David McNeill)
16. 10:19 PM - wiring rear headset jacks (Jay Brinkmeyer)
17. 10:33 PM - Re: wiring rear headset jacks (Chris and Susie McGough)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the
right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff.
My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't
buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
neat... but I'll do better next time.
I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim (just
in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT hoping
there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest tech
standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna.
Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure
out later. Just a choice.
Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I figure
> it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items in the
> tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I was
> thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one side and
> pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>
>
>
> Items for wiring
>
>
>
> Nav Antenna
>
> Tail Nav light
>
> Tail Strobe light
>
> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>
> ELT
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>
>
>
> -Ben Westfall
>
> #40579
>
>
>
Message 2
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I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I
live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting
the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the
Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock.
However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar
(?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the
replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said).
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
Message 3
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"$250." ????
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I
live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting
the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the
Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock.
However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar
(?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the
replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said).
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Weight after paint |
Very nice looking Dave. When I first looked, I thought the lower part of the fuse
was polished as well. Did you consider doing that?
It looks to me like this is the airplane that has the left aft upper cowling hinged.
How has that worked for you and do you have any drawings, plans, tips, etc.
that you can share. I am interested in that mod.
Regards,
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155746#155746
Message 5
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Subject: | Garmin's GNS480 Becomes An Orphan |
FYI, the following is an extract from AvWeb.
"Garmin International told its dealers this week that the GNS480 GPS
navigator will be discontinued due to declining sales, a development
many owners had feared. Compared to Garmin's mega-selling GNS430 and 530
series navigators, the 480 sold in fractional numbers. But according to
our sister magazine, Aviation Consumer, the product had a small but
loyal following due to its unique flight management system-like
capabilities, including a database with airways as a route option.
Garmin acquired what was then the CNX80 when it bought UPSAT in 2003.
UPSAT developed the technology for the first WAAS-capable navigators for
light-aircraft GA and the CNX80 was WAAS ready long before Garmin's
bigger selling boxes were. However, once the WAAS-capable GNS430W and
530W became available, CNS480 sales tanked. Garmin's Jessica Myers told
AVweb that Garmin will continue to support both the CNX80 and GNS480 for
"years and years," but that no new units will be sold once existing
stock is gone, which is likely to be in 2008".
Regards
Pat
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Friday, 4 January 2008 2:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
"$250." ????
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce
yesterday (I live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480
in stock. I kept getting the yes/no/maybe while he went through his
computer, but it turns out the Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is
out of stock.
However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin
Longstar (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250.
Apparently the replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the
name he said).
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
Message 6
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ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> "$250." ????
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ---
My guess is that it's only the chip. For those guys who already have one, it looks
like the update chips will keep on coming.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155831#155831
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. Pulling
any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the purpose of "Quick
Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far as fishing
out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there (please tell
me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco
could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question.
As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for access.
I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for a good
reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
Humbly and ready to take some shots,
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
I concur: my QB number for the fuselage was #8 and they did not at that time
install the forward weldment support nut plates; I reported this to Van's
and indicated that that was the only reason to remove it. I believe that
they have since installed the nut plates for the forward support. In my case
they also installed the mid fuselage floorboards with stemmed blinds and
thus the removal was complicated slightly; it require some finesse to get
the floors out. Underneath nothing was found.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues.
Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the
purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited
access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to
get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very
thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong
magnet would answer that question.
As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for
access.
I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for
a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
Humbly and ready to take some shots,
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
John,
Your's may be different, but my QB had temporary (soft) rivets holding
the floorboards in and didn't take long to remove. I needed to remove those
rivets anyway and there weren't that many of them so it made sense to pop
them out and have a look. Plus the opportunity to add noise insulation. If
your panels are completely riveted in then I can see your hesitancy.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues.
Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the
purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited
access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to
get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very
thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong
magnet would answer that question.
As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for
access.
I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for
a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
Humbly and ready to take some shots,
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
if you are tearing a QB apart to find a cleco.. just move the fuselage
around and see if you hear anything.. I gathered people were doing this for
the insulation install and putting conduit in that space, hence the effort
to remove the floorboards to get in there. If you don't see any need to do
anything under the floor, I'd agree focus your time and effort elsewhere.
as far as being forward or pushy..I commend you for not being a blind
follower and thinking this out for your individual case.
Pascal
#720
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 5:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
>
> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues.
> Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the
> purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited
> access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to
> get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very
> thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong
> magnet would answer that question.
> As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place
> for access.
>
> I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss
> for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
>
> Humbly and ready to take some shots,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the
wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
Larry
#356
MauleDriver wrote:
> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the
> right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
> Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
> it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
> long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff.
>
> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't
> buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
> Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
> wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
> shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
> length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
> work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
> Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
> especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
> neat... but I'll do better next time.
>
> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest
> tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna.
>
> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure
> out later. Just a choice.
>
> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>
> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>
> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>
>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items
>> in the tail while I can still crawl into it before its attached. I
>> was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one
>> side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>
>> Items for wiring
>>
>> Nav Antenna
>>
>> Tail Nav light
>>
>> Tail Strobe light
>>
>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>
>> ELT
>>
>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>
>> -Ben Westfall
>>
>> #40579
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
John,
I could not make up my mind. One day I was going to pull them out,
and the next day I wasn't going to. In the end, I decided to dig in
and do it. I am about halfway through the process and I must say, I
agree with you. I paid good money for the quick build and am now
spending lots of precious time taking it apart. I think the problems
with tools under the floor and quality control issues have probably
been laid to rest since the early days. It is not particularly hard,
just time consuming and the value is minimal. Since I am committed, I
plan to go ahead and put insulating/sound deadening material in
there. I will probably go ahead and put the transponder antenna and
perhaps a comm antenna under the front floor as well. But, if I had
it to do over again...........................probably not.
David Maib
40559
On Jan 3, 2008, at 7:40 PM, johngoodman wrote:
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the
issues. Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much
defeats the purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do
have limited access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see
any other need to get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The
rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be
in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question.
As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier
place for access.
I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a
loss for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to
have done.
Humbly and ready to take some shots,
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in the J
channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be
easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports were
done before joining - a good way to go.
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the
> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>
> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>
> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>
> Larry
> #356
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and
>> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking
>> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have
>> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and
>> other stuff.
>>
>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the
>> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you
>> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1
>> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then
>> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead.
>> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down
>> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist
>> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my installation
>> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>
>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip
>> Nav antenna.
>>
>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>> figure out later. Just a choice.
>>
>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>>
>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>
>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>
>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before its
>>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads
>>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>
>>> Items for wiring
>>>
>>> Nav Antenna
>>>
>>> Tail Nav light
>>>
>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>
>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>
>>> ELT
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>
>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>
>>> #40579
>>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
Message 14
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|
I did the wiring and static ports before attachment; it is easier to secure
the wiring, deburr the holes and install grommets or snap bushings. Another
means to secure the wiring is Adel clamps and click bond fasteners
http://www.clickbond.com/index.php. These can be epoxied anywhere and
provide a very secure wiring bundle to prevent chafing and repair down the
road.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and deburr
the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the wire later.
I have a wire runs on each side.
Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
Larry
#356
MauleDriver wrote:
> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the
> right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
> Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
> it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
> long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff.
>
> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't
> buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
> Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
> wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
> shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
> length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
> work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
> Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
> especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
> neat... but I'll do better next time.
>
> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest
> tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna.
>
> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure
> out later. Just a choice.
>
> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>
> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>
> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>
>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items
>> in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I
>> was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one
>> side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>
>> Items for wiring
>>
>> Nav Antenna
>>
>> Tail Nav light
>>
>> Tail Strobe light
>>
>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>
>> ELT
>>
>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>
>> -Ben Westfall
>>
>> #40579
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
Message 15
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One other consideration: tie wraps get brittle and break with age. YOu can
use adel clamps or make sure the access is easy to replace when necessary.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in the J
channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be
easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports were done
before joining - a good way to go.
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the
> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>
> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>
> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>
> Larry
> #356
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and
>> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking
>> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have
>> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and
>> other stuff.
>>
>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the
>> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you
>> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1
>> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then
>> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead.
>> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down
>> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist
>> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my installation
>> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>
>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip
>> Nav antenna.
>>
>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>> figure out later. Just a choice.
>>
>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>>
>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>
>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>
>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's
>>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads
>>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>
>>> Items for wiring
>>>
>>> Nav Antenna
>>>
>>> Tail Nav light
>>>
>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>
>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>
>>> ELT
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>
>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>
>>> #40579
>>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> ---
>>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | wiring rear headset jacks |
Are any 4 place wiring diagrams
available out there?
Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring
Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?)
I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that Stein has
most excellent pricing compared with others.
For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to
each pair of L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel circuits), one cable
per jack (4 cables total) or something different?
If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than mono? Different
jacks too?
Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies.
Regards,
Jay
- jammin' on overhead and doors
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: wiring rear headset jacks |
Jay the wiring diagram will come with your intercom. The only difference
we have made is we have wired the earth on the jacks all back to the
panel . The wiring diagram if stereo will also show you what wire goes
where. Very basic.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Brinkmeyer
To: RV10
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wiring rear headset jacks
Are any 4 place wiring diagrams available out there?
Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring
Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?)
I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that
Stein has most excellent pricing compared with others.
For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to each pair of
L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel circuits), one cable per
jack (4 cables total) or something different?
If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than mono?
Different jacks too?
Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies.
Regards,
Jay
- jammin' on overhead and doors
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