RV10-List Digest Archive

Thu 01/03/08


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:40 AM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
     2. 07:21 AM - Re: Garmin 480 (johngoodman)
     3. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Garmin 480 (Rick Sked)
     4. 08:29 AM - Re: Weight after paint (dmaib@mac.com)
     5. 02:09 PM - Garmin's GNS480 Becomes An Orphan (Patrick Pulis)
     6. 05:14 PM - Re: Garmin 480 (johngoodman)
     7. 05:42 PM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (johngoodman)
     8. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (David McNeill)
     9. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Marcus Cooper)
    10. 06:17 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Pascal)
    11. 06:20 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (Larry Rosen)
    12. 07:17 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (David Maib)
    13. 07:22 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
    14. 07:34 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (David McNeill)
    15. 07:36 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (David McNeill)
    16. 10:19 PM - wiring rear headset jacks (Jay Brinkmeyer)
    17. 10:33 PM - Re: wiring rear headset jacks (Chris and Susie McGough)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:40:06 AM PST US
    From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: tailcone wiring
    I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff. My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time. I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna. Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure out later. Just a choice. Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly. Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson Ben Westfall wrote: > > I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I figure > it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items in the > tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I was > thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one side and > pre running wires within it (or at least string). > > > > Items for wiring > > > > Nav Antenna > > Tail Nav light > > Tail Strobe light > > Pitch Trim Servo wiring > > ELT > > > > Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring? > > > > -Ben Westfall > > #40579 > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:21:02 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Garmin 480
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock. However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said). John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:12:20 AM PST US
    From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Garmin 480
    "$250." ???? Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480 I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock. However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said). John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:29:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Weight after paint
    From: "dmaib@mac.com" <dmaib@mac.com>
    Very nice looking Dave. When I first looked, I thought the lower part of the fuse was polished as well. Did you consider doing that? It looks to me like this is the airplane that has the left aft upper cowling hinged. How has that worked for you and do you have any drawings, plans, tips, etc. that you can share. I am interested in that mod. Regards, -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155746#155746


    Message 5


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    Time: 02:09:31 PM PST US
    Subject: Garmin's GNS480 Becomes An Orphan
    From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
    FYI, the following is an extract from AvWeb. "Garmin International told its dealers this week that the GNS480 GPS navigator will be discontinued due to declining sales, a development many owners had feared. Compared to Garmin's mega-selling GNS430 and 530 series navigators, the 480 sold in fractional numbers. But according to our sister magazine, Aviation Consumer, the product had a small but loyal following due to its unique flight management system-like capabilities, including a database with airways as a route option. Garmin acquired what was then the CNX80 when it bought UPSAT in 2003. UPSAT developed the technology for the first WAAS-capable navigators for light-aircraft GA and the CNX80 was WAAS ready long before Garmin's bigger selling boxes were. However, once the WAAS-capable GNS430W and 530W became available, CNS480 sales tanked. Garmin's Jessica Myers told AVweb that Garmin will continue to support both the CNX80 and GNS480 for "years and years," but that no new units will be sold once existing stock is gone, which is likely to be in 2008". Regards Pat Do Not Archive -----Original Message----- From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com] Sent: Friday, 4 January 2008 2:40 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480 "$250." ???? Rick S. 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480 --> <johngoodman@earthlink.net> I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce yesterday (I live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock. I kept getting the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns out the Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock. However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW Garmin Longstar (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250. Apparently the replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he said). John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:14:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Garmin 480
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote: > "$250." ???? > Rick S. > 40185 > --- My guess is that it's only the chip. For those guys who already have one, it looks like the update chips will keep on coming. John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155831#155831


    Message 7


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    Time: 05:42:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question. As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for access. I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done. Humbly and ready to take some shots, John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:04:34 PM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
    I concur: my QB number for the fuselage was #8 and they did not at that time install the forward weldment support nut plates; I reported this to Van's and indicated that that was the only reason to remove it. I believe that they have since installed the nut plates for the forward support. In my case they also installed the mid fuselage floorboards with stemmed blinds and thus the removal was complicated slightly; it require some finesse to get the floors out. Underneath nothing was found. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount --> <johngoodman@earthlink.net> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question. As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for access. I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done. Humbly and ready to take some shots, John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:10:47 PM PST US
    From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@cableone.net>
    Subject: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
    John, Your's may be different, but my QB had temporary (soft) rivets holding the floorboards in and didn't take long to remove. I needed to remove those rivets anyway and there weren't that many of them so it made sense to pop them out and have a look. Plus the opportunity to add noise insulation. If your panels are completely riveted in then I can see your hesitancy. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question. As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for access. I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done. Humbly and ready to take some shots, John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:17:16 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
    if you are tearing a QB apart to find a cleco.. just move the fuselage around and see if you hear anything.. I gathered people were doing this for the insulation install and putting conduit in that space, hence the effort to remove the floorboards to get in there. If you don't see any need to do anything under the floor, I'd agree focus your time and effort elsewhere. as far as being forward or pushy..I commend you for not being a blind follower and thinking this out for your individual case. Pascal #720 ----- Original Message ----- From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 5:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount > > Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. > Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the > purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited > access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to > get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very > thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong > magnet would answer that question. > As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place > for access. > > I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss > for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done. > > Humbly and ready to take some shots, > John > > -------- > #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834 > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:20:08 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: tailcone wiring
    If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the wire later. I have a wire runs on each side. Get the static port in now, also much easier than later. At least that is how I would do it /next /time. Larry #356 MauleDriver wrote: > I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't > need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the > right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach. > Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that > it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good > long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff. > > My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't > buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners. > Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the > wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of > shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small > length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet > work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps. > Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything > especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly > neat... but I'll do better next time. > > I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim > (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT > hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest > tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna. > > Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only > putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure > out later. Just a choice. > > Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly. > > Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson > > Ben Westfall wrote: >> >> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I >> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items >> in the tail while I can still crawl into it before its attached. I >> was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one >> side and pre running wires within it (or at least string). >> >> Items for wiring >> >> Nav Antenna >> >> Tail Nav light >> >> Tail Strobe light >> >> Pitch Trim Servo wiring >> >> ELT >> >> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring? >> >> -Ben Westfall >> >> #40579 >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >


    Message 12


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    Time: 07:17:37 PM PST US
    From: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
    Subject: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount
    John, I could not make up my mind. One day I was going to pull them out, and the next day I wasn't going to. In the end, I decided to dig in and do it. I am about halfway through the process and I must say, I agree with you. I paid good money for the quick build and am now spending lots of precious time taking it apart. I think the problems with tools under the floor and quality control issues have probably been laid to rest since the early days. It is not particularly hard, just time consuming and the value is minimal. Since I am committed, I plan to go ahead and put insulating/sound deadening material in there. I will probably go ahead and put the transponder antenna and perhaps a comm antenna under the front floor as well. But, if I had it to do over again...........................probably not. David Maib 40559 On Jan 3, 2008, at 7:40 PM, johngoodman wrote: <johngoodman@earthlink.net> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues. Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question. As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier place for access. I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a loss for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done. Humbly and ready to take some shots, John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:22:57 PM PST US
    From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: tailcone wiring
    Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in the J channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports were done before joining - a good way to go. Larry Rosen wrote: > > If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and > deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the > wire later. I have a wire runs on each side. > > Get the static port in now, also much easier than later. > > At least that is how I would do it /next /time. > > Larry > #356 > > MauleDriver wrote: >> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't >> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at >> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and >> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking >> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have >> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and >> other stuff. >> >> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I >> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the >> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you >> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 >> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then >> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. >> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down >> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist >> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my installation >> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time. >> >> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim >> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT >> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the >> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip >> Nav antenna. >> >> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only >> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to >> figure out later. Just a choice. >> >> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly. >> >> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson >> >> Ben Westfall wrote: >>> >>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I >>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the >>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before its >>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads >>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string). >>> >>> Items for wiring >>> >>> Nav Antenna >>> >>> Tail Nav light >>> >>> Tail Strobe light >>> >>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring >>> >>> ELT >>> >>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring? >>> >>> -Ben Westfall >>> >>> #40579 >>> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:34:08 PM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: tailcone wiring
    I did the wiring and static ports before attachment; it is easier to secure the wiring, deburr the holes and install grommets or snap bushings. Another means to secure the wiring is Adel clamps and click bond fasteners http://www.clickbond.com/index.php. These can be epoxied anywhere and provide a very secure wiring bundle to prevent chafing and repair down the road. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the wire later. I have a wire runs on each side. Get the static port in now, also much easier than later. At least that is how I would do it /next /time. Larry #356 MauleDriver wrote: > I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't > need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at the > right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach. > Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that > it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good > long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other stuff. > > My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't > buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners. > Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the > wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of > shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small > length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet > work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps. > Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything > especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly > neat... but I'll do better next time. > > I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim > (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT > hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest > tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna. > > Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only > putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure > out later. Just a choice. > > Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly. > > Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson > > Ben Westfall wrote: >> >> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I >> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items >> in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I >> was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one >> side and pre running wires within it (or at least string). >> >> Items for wiring >> >> Nav Antenna >> >> Tail Nav light >> >> Tail Strobe light >> >> Pitch Trim Servo wiring >> >> ELT >> >> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring? >> >> -Ben Westfall >> >> #40579 >> > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- >


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:36:09 PM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: tailcone wiring
    One other consideration: tie wraps get brittle and break with age. YOu can use adel clamps or make sure the access is easy to replace when necessary. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:21 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in the J channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports were done before joining - a good way to go. Larry Rosen wrote: > > If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and > deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the > wire later. I have a wire runs on each side. > > Get the static port in now, also much easier than later. > > At least that is how I would do it /next /time. > > Larry > #356 > > MauleDriver wrote: >> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't >> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at >> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and >> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking >> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have >> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and >> other stuff. >> >> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I >> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the >> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you >> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 >> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then >> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. >> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down >> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist >> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my installation >> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time. >> >> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim >> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT >> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the >> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip >> Nav antenna. >> >> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only >> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to >> figure out later. Just a choice. >> >> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly. >> >> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson >> >> Ben Westfall wrote: >>> >>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I >>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the >>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's >>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads >>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string). >>> >>> Items for wiring >>> >>> Nav Antenna >>> >>> Tail Nav light >>> >>> Tail Strobe light >>> >>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring >>> >>> ELT >>> >>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring? >>> >>> -Ben Westfall >>> >>> #40579 >>> >> >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> --- >> > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 10:19:02 PM PST US
    From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
    Subject: wiring rear headset jacks
    Are any 4 place wiring diagrams available out there? Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?) I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that Stein has most excellent pricing compared with others. For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to each pair of L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel circuits), one cable per jack (4 cables total) or something different? If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than mono? Different jacks too? Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies. Regards, Jay - jammin' on overhead and doors Looking for last minute shopping deals?


    Message 17


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    Time: 10:33:51 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: wiring rear headset jacks
    Jay the wiring diagram will come with your intercom. The only difference we have made is we have wired the earth on the jacks all back to the panel . The wiring diagram if stereo will also show you what wire goes where. Very basic. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: Jay Brinkmeyer To: RV10 Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 5:16 PM Subject: RV10-List: wiring rear headset jacks Are any 4 place wiring diagrams available out there? Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?) I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that Stein has most excellent pricing compared with others. For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to each pair of L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel circuits), one cable per jack (4 cables total) or something different? If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than mono? Different jacks too? Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies. Regards, Jay - jammin' on overhead and doors ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Be a better friend, newshound, and




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