Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:27 AM - Re: RV10-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 01/03/08 (Christian Nielsen)
2. 04:58 AM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
3. 05:51 AM - Re: tailcone wiring (Jesse Saint)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: wiring rear headset jacks (jayb)
5. 06:57 AM - AFtermarket intersection fairings (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
6. 07:08 AM - Re: wiring rear headset jacks (William Curtis)
7. 07:21 AM - Re: tailcone wiring (jayb)
8. 08:04 AM - Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. (John Gonzalez)
9. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: wiring rear headset jacks (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
10. 08:59 AM - Battery box question (Bill & Tami Britton)
11. 09:17 AM - Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. (John Jessen)
12. 09:36 AM - Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 10:03 AM - Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings (Fred Williams, M.D.)
14. 10:50 AM - Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings (greghale)
15. 11:08 AM - Re: Re: wiring rear headset jacks (William Curtis)
16. 11:24 AM - Re: Re: wiring rear headset jacks (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
17. 11:24 AM - Re: Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
18. 01:54 PM - Re: Battery box question (Pascal)
19. 05:35 PM - Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. (Dave Leikam)
20. 07:15 PM - Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
21. 07:25 PM - DRDT-2 dimpler (Lew Gallagher)
22. 07:42 PM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (Gerry Filby)
23. 07:47 PM - Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. (linn Walters)
24. 07:51 PM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (linn Walters)
25. 07:56 PM - VP200 CU mounting? (Chris Johnston)
26. 07:59 PM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (Bob Leffler)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 01/03/08 |
please remove me
On Jan 4, 2008, at 8:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV10-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version
> of the RV10-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 08-01-03&Archive=RV10
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 08-01-03&Archive=RV10
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV10-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 01/03/08: 17
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:40 AM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
> 2. 07:21 AM - Re: Garmin 480 (johngoodman)
> 3. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Garmin 480 (Rick Sked)
> 4. 08:29 AM - Re: Weight after paint (dmaib@mac.com)
> 5. 02:09 PM - Garmin's GNS480 Becomes An Orphan (Patrick Pulis)
> 6. 05:14 PM - Re: Garmin 480 (johngoodman)
> 7. 05:42 PM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount (johngoodman)
> 8. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount (David McNeill)
> 9. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount (Marcus Cooper)
> 10. 06:17 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount (Pascal)
> 11. 06:20 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (Larry Rosen)
> 12. 07:17 PM - Re: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount (David Maib)
> 13. 07:22 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (MauleDriver)
> 14. 07:34 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (David McNeill)
> 15. 07:36 PM - Re: tailcone wiring (David McNeill)
> 16. 10:19 PM - wiring rear headset jacks (Jay Brinkmeyer)
> 17. 10:33 PM - Re: wiring rear headset jacks (Chris and Susie
> McGough)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:40:06 AM PST US
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
> the
> right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
> Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
> it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
> long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other
> stuff.
>
> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I didn't
> buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
> Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
> wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
> shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
> length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
> work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
> Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
> especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
> neat... but I'll do better next time.
>
> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
> (just
> in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT hoping
> there will be an experimentally priced solution with the latest tech
> standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav antenna.
>
> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to figure
> out later. Just a choice.
>
> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>
> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>
> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>
>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>> figure
>> it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the items in the
>> tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I was
>> thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one side
>> and
>> pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>
>>
>>
>> Items for wiring
>>
>>
>>
>> Nav Antenna
>>
>> Tail Nav light
>>
>> Tail Strobe light
>>
>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>
>> ELT
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>
>>
>>
>> -Ben Westfall
>>
>> #40579
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:21:02 AM PST US
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>
> I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce
> yesterday (I
> live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock.
> I kept getting
> the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns
> out the
> Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock.
>
> However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW
> Garmin Longstar
> (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250.
> Apparently the
> replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he
> said).
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:12:20 AM PST US
> From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
>
>
> "$250." ????
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/
> Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
>
>
> I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce
> yesterday (I
> live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480 in stock.
> I kept getting
> the yes/no/maybe while he went through his computer, but it turns
> out the
> Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is out of stock.
>
> However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW
> Garmin Longstar
> (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be $250.
> Apparently the
> replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's the name he
> said).
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:29:01 AM PST US
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Weight after paint
> From: "dmaib@mac.com" <dmaib@mac.com>
>
>
> Very nice looking Dave. When I first looked, I thought the lower
> part of the fuse
> was polished as well. Did you consider doing that?
>
> It looks to me like this is the airplane that has the left aft upper
> cowling hinged.
> How has that worked for you and do you have any drawings, plans,
> tips, etc.
> that you can share. I am interested in that mod.
>
> Regards,
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155746#155746
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:09:31 PM PST US
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin's GNS480 Becomes An Orphan
> From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
>
>
> FYI, the following is an extract from AvWeb.
>
> "Garmin International told its dealers this week that the GNS480 GPS
> navigator will be discontinued due to declining sales, a development
> many owners had feared. Compared to Garmin's mega-selling GNS430 and
> 530
> series navigators, the 480 sold in fractional numbers. But according
> to
> our sister magazine, Aviation Consumer, the product had a small but
> loyal following due to its unique flight management system-like
> capabilities, including a database with airways as a route option.
> Garmin acquired what was then the CNX80 when it bought UPSAT in 2003.
> UPSAT developed the technology for the first WAAS-capable navigators
> for
> light-aircraft GA and the CNX80 was WAAS ready long before Garmin's
> bigger selling boxes were. However, once the WAAS-capable GNS430W and
> 530W became available, CNS480 sales tanked. Garmin's Jessica Myers
> told
> AVweb that Garmin will continue to support both the CNX80 and GNS480
> for
> "years and years," but that no new units will be sold once existing
> stock is gone, which is likely to be in 2008".
>
> Regards
>
> Pat
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, 4 January 2008 2:40 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
>
>
> "$250." ????
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2008 7:18:15 AM (GMT-0800)
> America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
>
> --> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> I've been following this thread and when I was in Aircraft Spruce
> yesterday (I live 4 miles away), I asked them if they had a Garmin 480
> in stock. I kept getting the yes/no/maybe while he went through his
> computer, but it turns out the Garmin 480 has been discontinued and is
> out of stock.
>
> However, the counter guy said that they have a whole bunch of NEW
> Garmin
> Longstar (?) 480s ordered but they haven't arrived. Price will be
> $250.
> Apparently the replacement has a new name - Longstar (I think that's
> the
> name he said).
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155732#155732
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:14:56 PM PST US
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Garmin 480
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>
> ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
>> "$250." ????
>> Rick S.
>> 40185
>> ---
>
>
> My guess is that it's only the chip. For those guys who already have
> one, it looks
> like the update chips will keep on coming.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155831#155831
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:42:55 PM PST US
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the
> issues. Pulling
> any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the
> purpose of "Quick
> Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited access as far
> as fishing
> out surprises, but I don't see any other need to get in there
> (please tell
> me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but
> an errant cleco
> could be in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that
> question.
> As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier
> place for access.
>
> I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a
> loss for a good
> reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
>
> Humbly and ready to take some shots,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:04:34 PM PST US
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and
> gear mount
>
>
> I concur: my QB number for the fuselage was #8 and they did not at
> that time
> install the forward weldment support nut plates; I reported this to
> Van's
> and indicated that that was the only reason to remove it. I believe
> that
> they have since installed the nut plates for the forward support. In
> my case
> they also installed the mid fuselage floorboards with stemmed blinds
> and
> thus the removal was complicated slightly; it require some finesse
> to get
> the floors out. Underneath nothing was found.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:40 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount
>
> --> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues.
> Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the
> purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited
> access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other
> need to
> get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are
> very
> thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a
> strong
> magnet would answer that question.
> As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier
> place for
> access.
>
> I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a
> loss for
> a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
>
> Humbly and ready to take some shots,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:10:47 PM PST US
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@cableone.net>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and
> gear mount
>
>
> John,
> Your's may be different, but my QB had temporary (soft) rivets
> holding
> the floorboards in and didn't take long to remove. I needed to
> remove those
> rivets anyway and there weren't that many of them so it made sense
> to pop
> them out and have a look. Plus the opportunity to add noise
> insulation. If
> your panels are completely riveted in then I can see your hesitancy.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:40 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount
>
>
> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the issues.
> Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats the
> purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have limited
> access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other
> need to
> get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards are
> very
> thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a
> strong
> magnet would answer that question.
> As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier
> place for
> access.
>
> I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a
> loss for
> a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have done.
>
> Humbly and ready to take some shots,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:17:16 PM PST US
> From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and
> gear mount
>
>
> if you are tearing a QB apart to find a cleco.. just move the fuselage
> around and see if you hear anything.. I gathered people were doing
> this for
> the insulation install and putting conduit in that space, hence the
> effort
> to remove the floorboards to get in there. If you don't see any need
> to do
> anything under the floor, I'd agree focus your time and effort
> elsewhere.
> as far as being forward or pushy..I commend you for not being a blind
> follower and thinking this out for your individual case.
>
> Pascal
> #720
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 5:40 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear
> mount
>
>
>>
>> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the
>> issues.
>> Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much defeats
>> the
>> purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do have
>> limited
>> access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see any other
>> need to
>> get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The rear floorboards
>> are very
>> thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be in there. I suspect a
>> strong
>> magnet would answer that question.
>> As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier
>> place
>> for access.
>>
>> I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a
>> loss
>> for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to have
>> done.
>>
>> Humbly and ready to take some shots,
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
>> N711JG reserved
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 11
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:20:08 PM PST US
> From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the
> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>
> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>
> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>
> Larry
> #356
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>> the
>> right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
>> Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
>> it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
>> long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other
>> stuff.
>>
>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>> didn't
>> buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
>> Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
>> wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
>> shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
>> length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
>> work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
>> Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
>> especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
>> neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>
>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>> latest
>> tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav
>> antenna.
>>
>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>> figure
>> out later. Just a choice.
>>
>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>>
>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>
>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>
>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>> items
>>> in the tail while I can still crawl into it before its attached. I
>>> was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one
>>> side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>
>>> Items for wiring
>>>
>>> Nav Antenna
>>>
>>> Tail Nav light
>>>
>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>
>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>
>>> ELT
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>
>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>
>>> #40579
>>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 12
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:17:37 PM PST US
> From: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and
> gear mount
>
>
> John,
>
> I could not make up my mind. One day I was going to pull them out,
> and the next day I wasn't going to. In the end, I decided to dig in
> and do it. I am about halfway through the process and I must say, I
> agree with you. I paid good money for the quick build and am now
> spending lots of precious time taking it apart. I think the problems
> with tools under the floor and quality control issues have probably
> been laid to rest since the early days. It is not particularly hard,
> just time consuming and the value is minimal. Since I am committed, I
> plan to go ahead and put insulating/sound deadening material in
> there. I will probably go ahead and put the transponder antenna and
> perhaps a comm antenna under the front floor as well. But, if I had
> it to do over again...........................probably not.
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2008, at 7:40 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> Spent an hour today pouring over the plans and identifying the
> issues. Pulling any of the floorboards (front or back) pretty much
> defeats the purpose of "Quick Build" in my opinion. The front ones do
> have limited access as far as fishing out surprises, but I don't see
> any other need to get in there (please tell me if I'm wrong). The
> rear floorboards are very thin in depth, but an errant cleco could be
> in there. I suspect a strong magnet would answer that question.
> As far as antenna placement, the baggage floor seems a far easier
> place for access.
>
> I hope that nobody thinks I'm being forward or pushy, but I'm at a
> loss for a good reason to spend hours undoing what I just paid to
> have done.
>
> Humbly and ready to take some shots,
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155834#155834
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 13
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:22:57 PM PST US
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in
> the J
> channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be
> easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports were
> done before joining - a good way to go.
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
>> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run
>> the
>> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>>
>> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>>
>> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>>
>> Larry
>> #356
>>
>> MauleDriver wrote:
>>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>>> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and
>>> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking
>>> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you
>>> have
>>> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and
>>> other stuff.
>>>
>>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>>> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the
>>> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you
>>> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1
>>> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then
>>> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each
>>> bulkhead.
>>> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down
>>> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist
>>> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my
>>> installation
>>> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>>
>>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>>> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip
>>> Nav antenna.
>>>
>>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>>> figure out later. Just a choice.
>>>
>>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send
>>> directly.
>>>
>>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>>
>>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before its
>>>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the
>>>> bulkheads
>>>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>>
>>>> Items for wiring
>>>>
>>>> Nav Antenna
>>>>
>>>> Tail Nav light
>>>>
>>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>>
>>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>>
>>>> ELT
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>>
>>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>>
>>>> #40579
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 14
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:34:08 PM PST US
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> I did the wiring and static ports before attachment; it is easier to
> secure
> the wiring, deburr the holes and install grommets or snap bushings.
> Another
> means to secure the wiring is Adel clamps and click bond fasteners
> http://www.clickbond.com/index.php. These can be epoxied anywhere and
> provide a very secure wiring bundle to prevent chafing and repair
> down the
> road.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
> deburr
> the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the wire
> later.
> I have a wire runs on each side.
>
> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>
> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>
> Larry
> #356
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>> the
>> right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and reach.
>> Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking is that
>> it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have a good
>> long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and other
>> stuff.
>>
>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>> didn't
>> buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the J-stiffeners.
>> Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you don't won't the
>> wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1 inch length of
>> shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then added a small
>> length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead. The grommet
>> work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down with tie wraps.
>> Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist keeps everything
>> especially neat. Which is not to say my installation is particularly
>> neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>
>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>> latest
>> tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip Nav
>> antenna.
>>
>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>> figure
>> out later. Just a choice.
>>
>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>>
>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>
>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>
>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>> items
>>> in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's attached. I
>>> was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads down one
>>> side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>
>>> Items for wiring
>>>
>>> Nav Antenna
>>>
>>> Tail Nav light
>>>
>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>
>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>
>>> ELT
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>
>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>
>>> #40579
>>>
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> --
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 15
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:36:09 PM PST US
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> One other consideration: tie wraps get brittle and break with age.
> YOu can
> use adel clamps or make sure the access is easy to replace when
> necessary.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:21 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in
> the J
> channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be
> easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports
> were done
> before joining - a good way to go.
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
>> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run
>> the
>> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>>
>> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>>
>> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>>
>> Larry
>> #356
>>
>> MauleDriver wrote:
>>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>>> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and
>>> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking
>>> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you
>>> have
>>> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and
>>> other stuff.
>>>
>>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>>> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the
>>> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you
>>> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1
>>> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then
>>> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each
>>> bulkhead.
>>> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down
>>> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist
>>> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my
>>> installation
>>> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>>
>>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>>> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip
>>> Nav antenna.
>>>
>>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>>> figure out later. Just a choice.
>>>
>>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send
>>> directly.
>>>
>>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>>
>>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's
>>>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the
>>>> bulkheads
>>>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>>
>>>> Items for wiring
>>>>
>>>> Nav Antenna
>>>>
>>>> Tail Nav light
>>>>
>>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>>
>>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>>
>>>> ELT
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>>
>>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>>
>>>> #40579
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> ---
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 16
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:19:02 PM PST US
> From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: wiring rear headset jacks
>
> Are any 4 place wiring diagrams
> available out there?
>
> Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring
> Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?)
>
> I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that
> Stein has
> most excellent pricing compared with others.
>
> For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to
> each pair of L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel
> circuits), one cable
> per jack (4 cables total) or something different?
>
> If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than
> mono? Different
> jacks too?
>
> Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
> - jammin' on overhead and doors
>
>
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
>
> ________________________________ Message 17
> ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:33:51 PM PST US
> From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: wiring rear headset jacks
>
> Jay the wiring diagram will come with your intercom. The only
> difference
> we have made is we have wired the earth on the jacks all back to the
> panel . The wiring diagram if stereo will also show you what wire goes
> where. Very basic.
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jay Brinkmeyer
> To: RV10
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 5:16 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: wiring rear headset jacks
>
>
> Are any 4 place wiring diagrams available out there?
>
> Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring
> Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?)
>
> I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that
> Stein has most excellent pricing compared with others.
>
> For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to each pair of
> L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel circuits), one cable
> per
> jack (4 cables total) or something different?
>
> If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than
> mono?
> Different jacks too?
>
> Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
> - jammin' on overhead and doors
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
>
Message 2
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|
| Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
I have been 'playing' with the old style lacing material and have used
it in one inaccessible location in place of a tie wrap. I may do this
in a few other locations. The most productive technique seems to be to
use tie wraps initially then cut them off and tie off with lacing material.
Having said that, I look at the many tie wraps in my '96 Maule and see
little degradation. Including those under the cowl (non-heat resistant
type). I think I remember reading that in addition to high heat,
ultraviolet exposure will rapidly degrade the tie wraps. They sure are
handy.
David McNeill wrote:
>
> One other consideration: tie wraps get brittle and break with age. YOu can
> use adel clamps or make sure the access is easy to replace when necessary.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>
>
> Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in the J
> channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would be
> easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports were done
> before joining - a good way to go.
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>
>>
>> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
>> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run the
>> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>>
>> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>>
>> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>>
>> Larry
>> #356
>>
>> MauleDriver wrote:
>>
>>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I didn't
>>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>>> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and
>>> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking
>>> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you have
>>> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone, and
>>> other stuff.
>>>
>>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>>> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the
>>> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you
>>> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1
>>> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then
>>> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each bulkhead.
>>> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down
>>> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist
>>> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my installation
>>> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>>
>>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>>> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip
>>> Nav antenna.
>>>
>>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>>> figure out later. Just a choice.
>>>
>>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send directly.
>>>
>>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>>
>>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>
>>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's
>>>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the bulkheads
>>>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least string).
>>>>
>>>> Items for wiring
>>>>
>>>> Nav Antenna
>>>>
>>>> Tail Nav light
>>>>
>>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>>
>>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>>
>>>> ELT
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>>
>>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>>
>>>> #40579
>>>>
>>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> ---
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
It depends on what the tie-wraps are made of. The nylon ones hold up
much better than the "cheaper" ones. The technique I was taught to
check was to fold it over and crease it. If it changes color
(stretches and whitens), then you don't want to use it. If it doesn't
change color, then it is a good one. Not very scientific, but you
will notice the difference. The main thing with using a lot of tie
wraps is the little barbs can cut you if you are working in an area of
a bunch of wires. For runs like you all are talking about, they
shouldn't cause that problem. The lacing is nice, but is not as easy
as the tie-wraps, which you can do with one hand if necessary. The
little flush cutter that Stein sells is great for cutting the tie-
wraps and not leaving much of a barb.
Oh, and if you need to pull a bundle through a conduit, then using
little short pieces of heat shrink along the bundle is best, then the
lacing, and tie-wraps are terrible.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 4, 2008, at 7:55 AM, MauleDriver wrote:
> I have been 'playing' with the old style lacing material and have
> used it in one inaccessible location in place of a tie wrap. I may
> do this in a few other locations. The most productive technique
> seems to be to use tie wraps initially then cut them off and tie off
> with lacing material.
>
> Having said that, I look at the many tie wraps in my '96 Maule and
> see little degradation. Including those under the cowl (non-heat
> resistant type). I think I remember reading that in addition to
> high heat, ultraviolet exposure will rapidly degrade the tie wraps.
> They sure are handy.
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>>
>> One other consideration: tie wraps get brittle and break with age.
>> YOu can
>> use adel clamps or make sure the access is easy to replace when
>> necessary.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> MauleDriver
>> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:21 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone wiring
>>
>>
>> Totally agree on both points. Drilling the holes for the ties in
>> the J
>> channel were not much of an hassle after joining the fuse but would
>> be
>> easier and done more accurately before joining. My static ports
>> were done
>> before joining - a good way to go.
>>
>> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>>> <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>>>
>>> If you go this route, as I did, it would be much easier to drill and
>>> deburr the holes in the J stiffeners now. It is easy enough to run
>>> the
>>> wire later. I have a wire runs on each side.
>>>
>>> Get the static port in now, also much easier than later.
>>>
>>> At least that is how I would do it /next /time.
>>>
>>> Larry
>>> #356
>>>
>>> MauleDriver wrote:
>>>
>>>> I waited until after I attached the tailcone and found that I
>>>> didn't
>>>> need to crawl into the tailcone at all (yet). With the fuselage at
>>>> the right height, everything is very accessible for my 6' bod and
>>>> reach. Because all of the tailcone wiring runs forward, my thinking
>>>> is that it's all easier to do with the fuselage joined. Then you
>>>> have
>>>> a good long session of wiring the battery compartment, tailcone,
>>>> and
>>>> other stuff.
>>>>
>>>> My approach was to copy the routing used in Van's wiring kit (I
>>>> didn't buy the kit). That is to run the wire down one of the
>>>> J-stiffeners. Here's where thorough deburring pays off because you
>>>> don't won't the wire to contact any burrs. For insurance, I put a 1
>>>> inch length of shrink tubing where it passes each bulkhead and then
>>>> added a small length (3/8" perhaps) of edge grommet to each
>>>> bulkhead.
>>>> The grommet work really well without adhesive. It's all tied down
>>>> with tie wraps. Very neat and easy. Giving the whole bundle a twist
>>>> keeps everything especially neat. Which is not to say my
>>>> installation
>>>> is particularly neat... but I'll do better next time.
>>>>
>>>> I ran wire for the nav light, strobe, pitch trim, and rudder trim
>>>> (just in case I do the rudder trim later). I holding off on the ELT
>>>> hoping there will be an experimentally priced solution with the
>>>> latest tech standard (900mhz or whatever). I'm going with wing tip
>>>> Nav antenna.
>>>>
>>>> Generally, I'm avoiding conduit for all the initial wiring and only
>>>> putting empty conduit in for any and all the stuff I'm bound to
>>>> figure out later. Just a choice.
>>>>
>>>> Attached is a pic but I'm not sure it will post. I can send
>>>> directly.
>>>>
>>>> Bill "done flying for a while and ready to build again" Watson
>>>>
>>>> Ben Westfall wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I am getting ready to attach the tailcone to the fuselage but I
>>>>> figure it would be better / easier to run all the wires for the
>>>>> items in the tail while I can still crawl into it before it's
>>>>> attached. I was thinking about running conduit through the
>>>>> bulkheads
>>>>> down one side and pre running wires within it (or at least
>>>>> string).
>>>>>
>>>>> Items for wiring
>>>>>
>>>>> Nav Antenna
>>>>>
>>>>> Tail Nav light
>>>>>
>>>>> Tail Strobe light
>>>>>
>>>>> Pitch Trim Servo wiring
>>>>>
>>>>> ELT
>>>>>
>>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of how they routed their wiring?
>>>>>
>>>>> -Ben Westfall
>>>>>
>>>>> #40579
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> ---
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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|
| Subject: | Re: wiring rear headset jacks |
Almost anything is easy, once you know how it's done...
I found the PMA8000B datasheet here:
http://www.ps-engineering.com/docs/PMA8000B_IM.pdf
Rear headset mics: 2 conductor shielded
Rear headset phones: 3 conductor shielded
Thanks to those that responded both online and offline.
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155919#155919
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | AFtermarket intersection fairings |
Has anyone used aftermarket intersection fairings for the gear legs?
Thoughts?
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | wiring rear headset jacks |
Jay,
You would use individual 3 pair shielded wire for the pilot and co-pilot headphones.
The rear passengers can share a common 3 pair. For the microphones you
will need an individual 2 pair for each place. Consider also adding another
3 pair to the front and rear for audio input. Most audio panels now allow separate
front and rear audio inputs. I'll have both front and rear audio inputs
with a switch so that front or rear passengers can listen to either front or
rear audio source. This all assumes stereo.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Are any 4 place wiring diagrams
> available out there?
>
> Front seats - need push-to-talk+intercom wiring
> Rear seats - need intercom only wiring (right?)
>
> I'm thinking 3 conductor shielded wire all the way around. Note that Stein has
most excellent pricing compared with others.
>
> For the rear seats... Have folks run a single cable to
> each pair of L/R seat jacks (i.e. 2 cables total w/ parallel circuits), one cable
per jack (4 cables total) or something different?
>
> If wiring for stereo, how's that different (conductor-wise) than mono? Different
jacks too?
>
> Thanks in advance for non-flammable replies.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
> - jammin' on overhead and doors
>
>
>
>
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: tailcone wiring |
Very cool stuff.
Get 'em here... http://www.theflightshop.com/ClickBond/Click_Bond_Info.php
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155931#155931
Message 8
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| Subject: | Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. |
I ask myself why I am writing this and I guess the only reason is to bitch.
Lycosaur or Lycodrain. This is another example of why I get so down on this
whole aircraft engine thing. I don't inderstand why a company as successfu
l as Lycoming(Market Dominator) and Continental don't get their own CNC mac
hines and make channels in their cases for gaskets...and why they haven't d
one this years ago and also had it certified.
Wow, what a surprise! Again, another after market option so we can take an
already extremely overpriced engine and spend more money to make it better.
Then there is the nice article about Rotoway, who not only makes a wonder
ful Helicopter kit, but a liquid cooled engine, a transmission for it and w
ith full Fadec system...let's not state that a internal combustion engine f
or a helicopter doesn't have the same requirements as what is needed for a
fixed wing. Looks like I have to now choose from Aero Sport or from Ly Con.
Please, no alternative engine war...just pissin in the wind and getting all
wet!
Sorry, just needed to put my one gripe for the day in.
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: wiring rear headset jacks |
Also for the archives, here's a link to 1/8" stereo jacks that are
ground isolated:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-7300-EX
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 8:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: wiring rear headset jacks
Almost anything is easy, once you know how it's done...
I found the PMA8000B datasheet here:
http://www.ps-engineering.com/docs/PMA8000B_IM.pdf
Rear headset mics: 2 conductor shielded
Rear headset phones: 3 conductor shielded
Thanks to those that responded both online and offline.
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155919#155919
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Battery box question |
I'm finally finishing up my modified battery tray but on page 10-16 step
8 (figure 3) I think I made a mistake. The figure has you countersink
#30 the 4 holes for the F1036B Battery Channels in the F1035
battery/bellcrank mount. I did this but started reading on and on page
10-17 step 6 (figure 3) it shows the 1036's laid over the countersinks I
just drilled and using AN470 rivets instead of 426's. I should've
looked ahead and realized that these didn't need countersunk but
hindsight is 20/20. My question is If I have screwed up how do I fix it
or do I need to worry about it???
Thanks,
Bill
Finally back to work
Message 11
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| Subject: | Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. |
Actually, John, I had the same reaction when I read the two articles. I'm
actually rooting for those with enough knowledge, skill, perserverance and
fortitude to get us engines and transmissions/PSRU's that work and can
deliver the needed power/weight ratios. I'd pay the same amount for such as
I am now willing to pay for the older engine designs. Unfortunately, I
don't think the market is big enough to sustain such a development
investment. Maybe it can come from a group of individuals who are willing
to get the design, development and partial testing done, then sell the
rights to a larger outfit that has enough cahonnies and backing to try to
make it work in the market. What a great retirement project for a group of
interested engineers.
John Jessen
40328 (just might have to resume building pretty quick)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 7:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed.
I ask myself why I am writing this and I guess the only reason is to bitch.
Lycosaur or Lycodrain.
This is another example of why I get so down on this whole aircraft engine
thing. I don't inderstand why a company as successful as Lycoming(Market
Dominator) and Continental don't get their own CNC machines and make
channels in their cases for gaskets...and why they haven't done this years
ago and also had it certified.
Wow, what a surprise! Again, another after market option so we can take an
already extremely overpriced engine and spend more money to make it better.
Then there is the nice article about Rotoway, who not only makes a wonderful
Helicopter kit, but a liquid cooled engine, a transmission for it and with
full Fadec system...let's not state that a internal combustion engine for a
helicopter doesn't have the same requirements as what is needed for a fixed
wing.
Looks like I have to now choose from Aero Sport or from Ly Con.
Please, no alternative engine war...just pissin in the wind and getting all
wet!
Sorry, just needed to put my one gripe for the day in.
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. |
History shows that when there is no competition in the market there is no
innovation. Throw in today's environment of litigation and it becomes eve
n less attractive to innovate where there is no competition.
Bring it down to the level of the guys that rebuild or put engines togeth
er and there is healthy competition. Thus you once again see this kind of
innovation. Why would Lycoming spend the time and capital to invest in dev
eloping a process or improvement to a product that already is a fore gone c
onclusion in the market?
Companies like Jabiru and Rotorway have learned well the lessons of Korea
n companies like Hyundai. Sure the upfront costs of developing end to end
manufacturing of EVERYTHING including the tools to build a product are high
, but the savings in the long run of a successful product lifecycle are mor
e than worth it.
We are the product of a capitalist and litigious society, not a pretty th
ing but our own fault.
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed.
I ask myself why I am writing this and I guess the only reason is to bitch.
Lycosaur or Lycodrain.
This is another example of why I get so down on this whole aircraft engine
thing. I don't inderstand why a company as successful as Lycoming(Market Do
minator) and Continental don't get their own CNC machines and make channels
in their cases for gaskets...and why they haven't done this years ago and
also had it certified.
Wow, what a surprise! Again, another after market option so we can take an
already extremely overpriced engine and spend more money to make it better.
Then there is the nice article about Rotoway, who not only makes a wonderfu
l Helicopter kit, but a liquid cooled engine, a transmission for it and wit
h full Fadec system...let's not state that a internal combustion engine for
a helicopter doesn't have the same requirements as what is needed for a fi
xed wing.
Looks like I have to now choose from Aero Sport or from Ly Con.
Please, no alternative engine war...just pissin in the wind and getting all
wet!
Sorry, just needed to put my one gripe for the day in.
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive.
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings |
Tim;
I'm currently working on the leg fairings. I met Mark Ritter this last
weekend and looked at his plane. He purchased some after market upper
fairings from faringsetc. I went and looked at the site. They were
$125 . I just couldn't get myself to spend that 100 + bucks. I did go
ahead and bond the lower fairings to the wheel pants and will then split
them so they can be taken apart. Should work well. I can get you some
pics if you need them. I was some more work, but I think it will look
better.
Fred
40515
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
> Has anyone used aftermarket intersection fairings for the gear legs?
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> tdt@aurora.aero <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings |
I tried to look up fairingsetc.com on the internet, but it says the site is no
longer available. Do you have the web site for the fairings?
Thanks,
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155968#155968
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: wiring rear headset jacks |
This (1/8") is for the audio input jacks right? Standard aircraft earphone jacks
are 1/4" and microphone jacks are 7/32"
Since I'll be using Bose headsets all around, I'm thinking of NOT installing the
standard aircraft mic and earphone jacks. 21st century jacks for an aircraft
built in the 21st century. If I ever have to use a regular headphone, I'd just
use a 1/4 - 7/32 to Bose adapter.
http://www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf (Page 18)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php
Aircraft Spruce sells the the Bose jacks here is the part number.
Aircraft Panel Installation Kit 11-01846 $31.00
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Also for the archives, here's a link to 1/8" stereo jacks that are
> ground isolated:
> http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-7300-EX
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 8:34 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: wiring rear headset jacks
>
>
> Almost anything is easy, once you know how it's done...
>
> I found the PMA8000B datasheet here:
>
> http://www.ps-engineering.com/docs/PMA8000B_IM.pdf
>
> Rear headset mics: 2 conductor shielded
> Rear headset phones: 3 conductor shielded
>
> Thanks to those that responded both online and offline.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155919#155919
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: wiring rear headset jacks |
Right - they are for the audio panel aux inputs.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 1:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: wiring rear headset jacks
This (1/8") is for the audio input jacks right? Standard aircraft
earphone jacks are 1/4" and microphone jacks are 7/32"
Since I'll be using Bose headsets all around, I'm thinking of NOT
installing the standard aircraft mic and earphone jacks. 21st century
jacks for an aircraft built in the 21st century. If I ever have to use
a regular headphone, I'd just use a 1/4 - 7/32 to Bose adapter.
http://www.bose.com/pdf/customer_service/owners/og_headset_x.pdf
(Page 18)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/bosehdst.php
Aircraft Spruce sells the the Bose jacks here is the part number.
Aircraft Panel Installation Kit 11-01846 $31.00
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
matter and those who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Also for the archives, here's a link to 1/8" stereo jacks that are
> ground isolated:
> http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-7300-EX
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jayb
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 8:34 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: wiring rear headset jacks
>
>
> Almost anything is easy, once you know how it's done...
>
> I found the PMA8000B datasheet here:
>
> http://www.ps-engineering.com/docs/PMA8000B_IM.pdf
>
> Rear headset mics: 2 conductor shielded
> Rear headset phones: 3 conductor shielded
>
> Thanks to those that responded both online and offline.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155919#155919
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings |
http://www.fairings-etc.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of greghale
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 12:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AFtermarket intersection fairings
I tried to look up fairingsetc.com on the internet, but it says the site
is no longer available. Do you have the web site for the fairings?
Thanks,
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155968#155968
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery box question |
not making sense to me but if you countersunk a 470 rivet hole just put
a 426 in that hole, if you did the opposite, than countersink the hole..
either way the hole should be the same size so whatever you need to make
it flush or not can be easily rectified.. as the strength should be the
same anyway..
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill & Tami Britton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 8:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Battery box question
I'm finally finishing up my modified battery tray but on page 10-16
step 8 (figure 3) I think I made a mistake. The figure has you
countersink #30 the 4 holes for the F1036B Battery Channels in the F1035
battery/bellcrank mount. I did this but started reading on and on page
10-17 step 6 (figure 3) it shows the 1036's laid over the countersinks I
just drilled and using AN470 rivets instead of 426's. I should've
looked ahead and realized that these didn't need countersunk but
hindsight is 20/20. My question is If I have screwed up how do I fix it
or do I need to worry about it???
Thanks,
Bill
Finally back to work
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. |
I read the same stuff. I concur.
Dave Leikam
40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John Gonzalez
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed.
I ask myself why I am writing this and I guess the only reason is to
bitch.
Lycosaur or Lycodrain.
This is another example of why I get so down on this whole aircraft
engine thing. I don't inderstand why a company as successful as
Lycoming(Market Dominator) and Continental don't get their own CNC
machines and make channels in their cases for gaskets...and why they
haven't done this years ago and also had it certified.
Wow, what a surprise! Again, another after market option so we can
take an already extremely overpriced engine and spend more money to make
it better.
Then there is the nice article about Rotoway, who not only makes a
wonderful Helicopter kit, but a liquid cooled engine, a transmission for
it and with full Fadec system...let's not state that a internal
combustion engine for a helicopter doesn't have the same requirements as
what is needed for a fixed wing.
Looks like I have to now choose from Aero Sport or from Ly Con.
Please, no alternative engine war...just pissin in the wind and
getting all wet!
Sorry, just needed to put my one gripe for the day in.
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive.
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. |
Guys,
Until something big happens to the major manufacturers, we're stuck with
either the 2 major manufacturers, or somebody with not a lot of track record.
Not sure what that "big" is on when it will happen, so.......
I went for Aero Sport's engine. I am completely satisfied to date with
Bart's support and his engine.
Better warranty and support than Lyc to boot.....
I just hope Bart can figure out how we can run some type of ethanol, no
leaded gas in our engines in the very near future........
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
In a message dated 1/4/2008 7:37:28 P.M. Central Standard Time,
daveleikam@wi.rr.com writes:
I read the same stuff. I concur.
Dave Leikam
40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: _John Gonzalez_ (mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com)
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed.
I ask myself why I am writing this and I guess the only reason is to bitch.
Lycosaur or Lycodrain.
This is another example of why I get so down on this whole aircraft engine
thing. I don't inderstand why a company as successful as Lycoming(Market
Dominator) and Continental don't get their own CNC machines and make channels
in
their cases for gaskets...and why they haven't done this years ago and also
had it certified.
Wow, what a surprise! Again, another after market option so we can take an
already extremely overpriced engine and spend more money to make it better.
Then there is the nice article about Rotoway, who not only makes a wonderful
Helicopter kit, but a liquid cooled engine, a transmission for it and with
full Fadec system...let's not state that a internal combustion engine for a
helicopter doesn't have the same requirements as what is needed for a fixed
wing.
Looks like I have to now choose from Aero Sport or from Ly Con.
Please, no alternative engine war...just pissin in the wind and getting all
wet!
Sorry, just needed to put my one gripe for the day in.
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 21
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|
I just finished this today, plans and head unit from sales@experimentalaero.com
-- took about 5 hrs. to fabricate, align, weld, paint. The steel came from a
local scrap yard and is 1/4 instead of 3/16, so it's about 70 lbs. -- and since
it is heftier, I made the throat a little deeper.
I'm helping a friend build his RV-10 (wish we had had it for his!), and just got
my tail section kit for my own.
I added the laser X&Y axis guides ($5 ea. at Harbor Freight) to pinpoint where
the die is to help line up the hole. It's VERY sweet! Just thought I'd pass
on the laser thought.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156072#156072
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt2_medium_127.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt_medium_233.jpg
Message 22
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|
Thank you !! Thank you !!
What a brilliant idea. When I built my 9 I ended up with little track lines
on the skin where I was hunting for the hole and the lower die was
contacting the skin.
Problem solved.
g
>Just thought I'd pass on the laser thought.
>
>Later, - Lew
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitplane's article, Ly-Con's case closed. |
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> Guys,
>
> Until something big happens to the major manufacturers, we're stuck
> with either the 2 major manufacturers, or somebody with not a lot of
> track record.
>
> Not sure what that "big" is on when it will happen, so.......
>
> I went for Aero Sport's engine. I am completely satisfied to date
> with Bart's support and his engine.
>
> Better warranty and support than Lyc to boot.....
>
> I just hope Bart can figure out how we can run some type of ethanol,
> no leaded gas in our engines in the very near future........
Actually, the engine will run pretty well with ethanol fuel. The
obiggest problem is the rubber in seals, hoses etc. between the tank and
the cylinder :-P , and If I recall correctly, the proseal in the tanks
will degrade over a long period of time. If I'm not correct on that, I
hope someone will let me know! ;-)
Linn
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
> do not archive
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
snip
>I added the laser X&Y axis guides ($5 ea. at Harbor Freight) to pinpoint where
the die is to help line up the hole. It's VERY sweet! Just thought I'd pass
on the laser thought.
>
Got an item # for them???
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>Later, - Lew
>
>--------
>non-pilot
>crazy about building
>waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | VP200 CU mounting? |
Hey Jesse -
so now that you've done an RV-10 with the VP system, where have you
found to be the best place for the CU? inquiring minds want to know!
cj
Message 26
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You laser light solution appears to have just resolved my only complaint
with the DRDT-2. I guess I'll be heading to Harbor Freight when I get back
from the BCS Bowl.
Do you really need two lights to make it work effectively?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 10:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
I just finished this today, plans and head unit from
sales@experimentalaero.com -- took about 5 hrs. to fabricate, align, weld,
paint. The steel came from a local scrap yard and is 1/4 instead of 3/16,
so it's about 70 lbs. -- and since it is heftier, I made the throat a little
deeper.
I'm helping a friend build his RV-10 (wish we had had it for his!), and just
got my tail section kit for my own.
I added the laser X&Y axis guides ($5 ea. at Harbor Freight) to pinpoint
where the die is to help line up the hole. It's VERY sweet! Just thought
I'd pass on the laser thought.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156072#156072
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt2_medium_127.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt_medium_233.jpg
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