Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:43 AM - battery box (Bill & Tami Britton)
2. 06:24 AM - Re: Safety-Trim Group Buy (gary)
3. 06:41 AM - Re: VP200 CU mounting? (Jesse Saint)
4. 06:59 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (Lew Gallagher)
5. 07:10 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (Pascal)
6. 08:12 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (johngoodman)
7. 08:15 AM - Re: Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (linn Walters)
8. 08:26 AM - Laser safety - Was Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (James Hein)
9. 09:24 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (MauleDriver)
10. 09:56 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (Pascal)
11. 10:21 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 10:21 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (MauleDriver)
13. 10:24 AM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
14. 02:30 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938 (jdalton77)
15. 02:36 PM - Engine development and politics (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
16. 06:27 PM - Parker Rolo-Flair tool (johngoodman)
17. 06:31 PM - Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount (Lew Gallagher)
18. 06:42 PM - Re: Parker Rolo-Flair tool (Carl Froehlich)
19. 06:52 PM - Wingtip lens (Lew Gallagher)
20. 07:18 PM - Re: Engine development and politics (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 07:20 PM - Re: DRDT-2 dimpler (Pascal)
22. 07:37 PM - Re: Parker Rolo-Flair tool (Gerry Filby)
23. 07:42 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Deems Davis)
24. 08:23 PM - Re: Parker Rolo-Flair tool (johngoodman)
25. 08:51 PM - Emailing: IMG_0956, IMG_0952 (David McNeill)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I'm finally finishing up my modified battery tray but on page 10-16 step
8 (figure 3) I think I made a mistake. The figure has you countersink
#30 the 4 holes for the F1036B Battery Channels in the F1035
battery/bellcrank mount. I did this but started reading on and on page
10-17 step 6 (figure 3) it shows the 1036's laid over the countersinks I
just drilled and using AN470 rivets instead of 426's. I should've
looked ahead and realized that these didn't need countersunk but
hindsight is 20/20. My question is If I have screwed up how do I fix it
or do I need to worry about it???
Thanks,
Bill
Finally back to work
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
Now that you guys sold over 100 units, I assume that production has a
backlog. Any idea about when shipping will happen?
Gary
40274 Pick up from paint shop this weekend. Yippppeeeeee!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 6:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Group Buy
First I would like to thank all the builders who have signed up for the
group buy. We appreciate your business and look forward to serving you.
We hope you all have had a safe and enjoyable holiday season.
This is the final weekend of the Vansairforce group buy for our Safety-Trim
servo controller. Over 140 builders have signed up and will receive the
full $100 discount on the 2 axis controller and $50 discount on the single
axis controller. If you haven't signed up yet the promotion continues
until the Dec 31.
Other important notes. We've added a few more applications notes on our
web site including details on the wiring harness available for use with
Safety-Trim. Lastly, we are now selling an airspeed switch that is field
adjustable between 55 and 140 knots and is perfect for triggering the 2
speed function on Safety-Trim.
group buy link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Best regards,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: VP200 CU mounting? |
I have installed one on a tray between the sub-panel and the
instrument panel cross-bar all the way over on the right side of the
panel. Then you just need to leave the bottom right side of the panel
empty, which is easy with some panels I have seen and difficult with
others. One is installed on the sub-panel, also on the right side,
mounting vertically by modifying the right rib and making some stand-
offs to hold it. This allows you to use the whole panel, but you
can't have anything very deep on the right side of the panel, aft of
the CU.
If you could find a good place forward of the sub-panel that you could
get to, then that would allow more panel room, but it would have to be
mounted hanging from a tray mounted on the ribs, probably. My whole
philosophy is ease of access down the road, so I like to keep it aft
of the sub-panel.
It could also be mounted in the tail, but there are a lot of power
wires needing to go to the panel, so it would add a little bit of
weight in wiring, although it would clean up your panel area quite a
bit by keeping all of the wires for lights and things out in the wings
and tail away from your panel area.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 4, 2008, at 10:51 PM, Chris Johnston wrote:
> Hey Jesse -
>
> so now that you've done an RV-10 with the VP system, where have you
> found to be the best place for the CU? inquiring minds want to know!
>
> cj
> <winmail.dat>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
To the center of the die is 23". That just happened to be how the material I had
to work with turned out -- I truly believe I could have added another 4 or
5 inches with no problem whatsoever. This thing is a monster, but solid as it
can be!
I was actually looking for a laser pointer with a single dot and I was thinking
of activating it with a limit switch on the ram so it would only come on when
needed. I couldn't wait and found these laser markers at Harbor Freight (Central
Machinery, Laser Marker, item 93242) for $5 apiece. They attach with magnets,
stickey pad, or screws and have an on/off switch. Since they form a line
instead of a dot, I got two so that they make a cross hair right over the female
die on the bottom. I read that some didn't like the male die on the bottom
cuz it scratched the surface trying to line it up with the hole -- this way
there's no scratch and easy alignment every time.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156125#156125
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
So how are you setting it up so it doesn't "reflect" off the aluminum and
cause some issues with the eyes?
Granted it is reflected but I still have my concerns..
Even HB warns about it on item# 93242-2VGA
* LASER PRODUCTS
DANGER: LASER LIGHT. AVOID DIRECT EYE EXPOSURE. Max. Output <5 mW.
This product complies with 21 CFR 1040.10 and 1040.11
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 7:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
> You laser light solution appears to have just resolved my only complaint
> with the DRDT-2. I guess I'll be heading to Harbor Freight when I get
> back
> from the BCS Bowl.
>
> Do you really need two lights to make it work effectively?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 10:23 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
>
> I just finished this today, plans and head unit from
> sales@experimentalaero.com -- took about 5 hrs. to fabricate, align, weld,
> paint. The steel came from a local scrap yard and is 1/4 instead of 3/16,
> so it's about 70 lbs. -- and since it is heftier, I made the throat a
> little
> deeper.
>
> I'm helping a friend build his RV-10 (wish we had had it for his!), and
> just
> got my tail section kit for my own.
>
> I added the laser X&Y axis guides ($5 ea. at Harbor Freight) to pinpoint
> where the die is to help line up the hole. It's VERY sweet! Just thought
> I'd pass on the laser thought.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156072#156072
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt2_medium_127.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt_medium_233.jpg
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2766 (20080104) Information __________
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
My Craftsman drill press has something similar that puts two laser lines on the
hole. The instructions make it pretty clear that it shouldn't be used with reflective
metals.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156143#156143
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
I just checked online $3.99!
Linn
do not archive
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>To the center of the die is 23". That just happened to be how the material I
had to work with turned out -- I truly believe I could have added another 4 or
5 inches with no problem whatsoever. This thing is a monster, but solid as it
can be!
>
>I was actually looking for a laser pointer with a single dot and I was thinking
of activating it with a limit switch on the ram so it would only come on when
needed. I couldn't wait and found these laser markers at Harbor Freight (Central
Machinery, Laser Marker, item 93242) for $5 apiece. They attach with magnets,
stickey pad, or screws and have an on/off switch. Since they form a line
instead of a dot, I got two so that they make a cross hair right over the female
die on the bottom. I read that some didn't like the male die on the bottom
cuz it scratched the surface trying to line it up with the hole -- this way
there's no scratch and easy alignment every time.
>
>Later, - Lew
>
>--------
>non-pilot
>crazy about building
>waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Laser safety - Was Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
Try something like this:
http://www.lasersafety.com/lasereyewear.html
-Jim 40384
johngoodman wrote:
>
>My Craftsman drill press has something similar that puts two laser lines on the
hole. The instructions make it pretty clear that it shouldn't be used with reflective
metals.
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156143#156143
>
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
This sounds neat. But I can't quite figure out how it helps yet.
The technique I use is with the male die always on the top, I put the
hold in the male die, then press down the handle which moves the sheet
and the dies down onto the female die.
Putting the male die on the bottom produces scratches. Allowing the
sheet to lie on the female die and trying to hit it with the male die
will sooner or later result in a new hole.
I'm doing the baggage door right now on the DRDT-2 and I just can't
figure out how to take advantage of a laser guide line.
...but I think I'll get them anyway and play.
Bill Watson
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
Unfortunately, with the leading edges having the male on top would involve
putting the c-frame inside the skins and I fear even if i used something
there would be worse scratching of the insides than anything I would do to
the outside skins, which BTW is covered with paint eventually; unless I am
missing something with the method, than please let me know as I am
interested in your method.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
> This sounds neat. But I can't quite figure out how it helps yet.
> The technique I use is with the male die always on the top, I put the hold
> in the male die, then press down the handle which moves the sheet and the
> dies down onto the female die.
>
> Putting the male die on the bottom produces scratches. Allowing the sheet
> to lie on the female die and trying to hit it with the male die will
> sooner or later result in a new hole.
>
> I'm doing the baggage door right now on the DRDT-2 and I just can't figure
> out how to take advantage of a laser guide line.
> ...but I think I'll get them anyway and play.
>
> Bill Watson
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Most people put the male die on the bottom and use the pin as a center and hold.
Yes it may scratch a little but unless you are polishing the aluminum rather
than painting, it makes no difference. You'll find that you can get into quite
the rhythm with the DRDT and knock out dimple jobs in a hurry using the male
on the bottom. Just don't get into the "zone" too much and miss a hole. Ask
several of us how we know. :)
My 0.02
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
This sounds neat. But I can't quite figure out how it helps yet.
The technique I use is with the male die always on the top, I put the
hold in the male die, then press down the handle which moves the sheet
and the dies down onto the female die.
Putting the male die on the bottom produces scratches. Allowing the
sheet to lie on the female die and trying to hit it with the male die
will sooner or later result in a new hole.
I'm doing the baggage door right now on the DRDT-2 and I just can't
figure out how to take advantage of a laser guide line.
...but I think I'll get them anyway and play.
Bill Watson
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
Well, I'm a QB builder so I missed some of the more challenging dimpling
jobs. I should say that I always try to use the male die on the top but
I'm sure there are exceptions that I've forgotten about (tail skins?).
I'm headed out to Harbor Freight now since I just heard they have their
2 ton crane on sale.
Bill
Pascal wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, with the leading edges having the male on top would
> involve putting the c-frame inside the skins and I fear even if i used
> something there would be worse scratching of the insides than anything
> I would do to the outside skins, which BTW is covered with paint
> eventually; unless I am missing something with the method, than please
> let me know as I am interested in your method.
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:14 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
>
>>
>> This sounds neat. But I can't quite figure out how it helps yet.
>> The technique I use is with the male die always on the top, I put the
>> hold in the male die, then press down the handle which moves the
>> sheet and the dies down onto the female die.
>>
>> Putting the male die on the bottom produces scratches. Allowing the
>> sheet to lie on the female die and trying to hit it with the male die
>> will sooner or later result in a new hole.
>>
>> I'm doing the baggage door right now on the DRDT-2 and I just can't
>> figure out how to take advantage of a laser guide line.
>> ...but I think I'll get them anyway and play.
>>
>> Bill Watson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Just watch the angles that you have them aimed at and the likelihood of direct
eye contact is pretty slim. As someone else said, protective glasses would also
work and double as safety glasses. You do wear safety glasses don't you?
:D
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
So how are you setting it up so it doesn't "reflect" off the aluminum and
cause some issues with the eyes?
Granted it is reflected but I still have my concerns..
Even HB warns about it on item# 93242-2VGA
* LASER PRODUCTS
DANGER: LASER LIGHT. AVOID DIRECT EYE EXPOSURE. Max. Output <5 mW.
This product complies with 21 CFR 1040.10 and 1040.11
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 7:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
> You laser light solution appears to have just resolved my only complaint
> with the DRDT-2. I guess I'll be heading to Harbor Freight when I get
> back
> from the BCS Bowl.
>
> Do you really need two lights to make it work effectively?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 10:23 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
>
> I just finished this today, plans and head unit from
> sales@experimentalaero.com -- took about 5 hrs. to fabricate, align, weld,
> paint. The steel came from a local scrap yard and is 1/4 instead of 3/16,
> so it's about 70 lbs. -- and since it is heftier, I made the throat a
> little
> deeper.
>
> I'm helping a friend build his RV-10 (wish we had had it for his!), and
> just
> got my tail section kit for my own.
>
> I added the laser X&Y axis guides ($5 ea. at Harbor Freight) to pinpoint
> where the die is to help line up the hole. It's VERY sweet! Just thought
> I'd pass on the laser thought.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156072#156072
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt2_medium_127.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt_medium_233.jpg
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2766 (20080104) Information __________
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938 |
Dave,
I'm curious about how you attached the aircraft to your car. Did you use
the towbar?
Jeff Dalton
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0927, IMG_0932, IMG_0935, IMG_0938
> Another milestone this morning. The trip to the airport was about 2 miles
> at 0600 on city streets. All the other parts are ready at the hangaar.
> Hopefully March.
>
>
> Your message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
> attachments:
>
>
> IMG_0927
> IMG_0932
> IMG_0935
> IMG_0938
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine development and politics |
Michael wrote:
"We are the product of a capitalist and litigious society, not a pretty
thing but our own fault."
I'll give you litigious, but you're not implying that a
socialist/Marxist/Maoist society would have better aircraft engine
choices are you? Governments have a historically-poor record at picking
winners and losers in technological or business issues . . .
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Parker Rolo-Flair tool |
Just bought a Parker Rolo-Flair tool and the directions are really poor. The flairing
part is not the problem, I can't figure out how to rotate the multi-die
wheels. I'm afraid I'll damage it if I start taking it apart.
Any hints on how to change the wheel with the dies?
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156245#156245
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: qb kit-front floor panels removal and gear mount |
Patrick #40715,
I meant to comment on your entry earlier about stripping screws on the side panels.
I also had that problem until I decided to bite the bullet and buy a cordless
impact driver. I'm sure that's what they were put in with -- mass production,
quick build, etc. These drivers are wonderful! I borrowed a friend's
Ryobi to try it. My other cordless tools are DeWalt, so I ended up getting that
one so I could use my existing batteries and charger. I no longer dread opening
and closing panels with the off round nut plates. This is NOT a hammer
drill. When it reaches a certain torque, it goes into impact mode. Usually it
only takes a tap or two in reverse to loosen, then it functions as a regular
electric screw driver. Be careful tightening as it can twist the head off if
you over torque it.
Another time saver was a pneumatic pop riveter -- $20 well spent when it comes
to popping the floor panels alone!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156246#156246
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Parker Rolo-Flair tool |
The wheels rotate with finger pressure (bale open). Try some WD-40 or such
to loosen them up.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (375 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Parker Rolo-Flair tool
Just bought a Parker Rolo-Flair tool and the directions are really poor. The
flairing part is not the problem, I can't figure out how to rotate the
multi-die wheels. I'm afraid I'll damage it if I start taking it apart.
Any hints on how to change the wheel with the dies?
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156245#156245
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
We're installing the wingtip marker/strobe and landing light Van's kit, and it
calls for just one countersunk screw on top and bottom corners of the lens. In
Plexiglas instructions I've read elsewhere, they always say not to countersink
but to oversize drill the screw hole and use a washer to allow for expansion/contraction
movement.
I've seen other wingtip lens on the 6A that have several screws & washers along
each edge of the lens. Has something changed? Different lens material? Would
it be better to at least add more screws?
While I'm on Plexiglas ... the owner of the 6A I was looking at said that some
of his friends who do acrobatics, have had the fiberglass bond of the windshield
forward edge crack where it bonds to the aluminum. They are adding an aluminum
strip riveted to the skin that comes up over the Plexiglas 3/4" or so to
add mechanical strength, then glassing over that ... comments?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156251#156251
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine development and politics |
No, more referring to the direct combination of the two into something new
and horrible.
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 4:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine development and politics
Michael wrote:
"We are the product of a capitalist and litigious society, not a pretty thi
ng but our own fault."
I'll give you litigious, but you're not implying that a socialist/Marxist/M
aoist society would have better aircraft engine choices are you? Governmen
ts have a historically-poor record at picking winners and losers in technol
ogical or business issues . . .
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt@aurora.aero<mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DRDT-2 dimpler |
sure do, I have a new pair of welder googles.. problem is I can't see what
I'm doing.. ;-) seriously though after having a speck of wood dust, making
the table, get in my eyes I have worn protective googles ever since.
Thanks for the insight, that is actually what I was looking for..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Just watch the angles that you have them aimed at and the likelihood of
> direct eye contact is pretty slim. As someone else said, protective
> glasses would also work and double as safety glasses. You do wear safety
> glasses don't you? :D
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:07 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
>
> So how are you setting it up so it doesn't "reflect" off the aluminum and
> cause some issues with the eyes?
> Granted it is reflected but I still have my concerns..
> Even HB warns about it on item# 93242-2VGA
> * LASER PRODUCTS
> DANGER: LASER LIGHT. AVOID DIRECT EYE EXPOSURE. Max. Output <5 mW.
> This product complies with 21 CFR 1040.10 and 1040.11
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 7:56 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>
>
>>
>> You laser light solution appears to have just resolved my only complaint
>> with the DRDT-2. I guess I'll be heading to Harbor Freight when I get
>> back
>> from the BCS Bowl.
>>
>> Do you really need two lights to make it work effectively?
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
>> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 10:23 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: DRDT-2 dimpler
>>
>>
>> I just finished this today, plans and head unit from
>> sales@experimentalaero.com -- took about 5 hrs. to fabricate, align,
>> weld,
>> paint. The steel came from a local scrap yard and is 1/4 instead of
>> 3/16,
>> so it's about 70 lbs. -- and since it is heftier, I made the throat a
>> little
>> deeper.
>>
>> I'm helping a friend build his RV-10 (wish we had had it for his!), and
>> just
>> got my tail section kit for my own.
>>
>> I added the laser X&Y axis guides ($5 ea. at Harbor Freight) to pinpoint
>> where the die is to help line up the hole. It's VERY sweet! Just
>> thought
>> I'd pass on the laser thought.
>>
>> Later, - Lew
>>
>> --------
>> non-pilot
>> crazy about building
>> waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156072#156072
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt2_medium_127.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/drdt_medium_233.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __________ NOD32 2766 (20080104) Information __________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Parker Rolo-Flair tool |
Make sure the two halves are not clamped together with the swing arm and
wingnut, they should rotate easily - there's a spring loaded detent that
locates each wheel in the correct spot.
The swing arm when, in the un-clamped position, has a pointer attached to it
that serves as the marker to judge how much tube should be protruding
through the dies.
Lube up the flaring face with a dash of your favorite light oil - Boelube or
cutting oil. Don't over flare - there needs to be sufficient metal
thickness for the flare fitting to squeeze without thinning to the point
that the tube is weakened.
Don't forget to slide the nut and collar on BEFORE you flare ;-) (Ai ya ya
how many times have I had to re-do a flare because I forgot the collar....
X-)
Hope this isn't TMI - just trying to save you a few curses and wasted
lengths of tubing :-)
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 6:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Parker Rolo-Flair tool
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Just bought a Parker Rolo-Flair tool and the directions are really poor. The
flairing part is not the problem, I can't figure out how to rotate the
multi-die wheels. I'm afraid I'll damage it if I start taking it apart.
Any hints on how to change the wheel with the dies?
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156245#156245
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Lew,
The wingtip lens plastic, is labeled as plexi, but it's properties are
different from the plexi used for the windows. The wing tip lens/covers
are much softer. If you use a microstop countersink you will find that
it quickly grabs and digs into the plastic. (ask me how I know) making
it difficult to obtain a smooth countersunk hole (at least for me) I
bought some stainless steel countersunk washers to use to 'doctor-up'
and hide the 'chattered' countersunk holes. I've purchased a
replacement lens and am going to remake them, and take more care in
countersinking the holes. I have no magic plan other than to go very
slow and use very light pressure. I'll also probably use progressive
sizes to avoid taking off too much at a time.
I used 3 screws per lens, one in the corner and one midway on top and
bottom. The differences in the fiberglass tips and the lenses curvature
requires additional screws in my case.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2024%20Wing%20Tips/slides/DSC02085.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/LED%20Nav%20&%20Strobes/slides/DSC02219.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> We're installing the wingtip marker/strobe and landing light Van's kit, and it
calls for just one countersunk screw on top and bottom corners of the lens.
In Plexiglas instructions I've read elsewhere, they always say not to countersink
but to oversize drill the screw hole and use a washer to allow for expansion/contraction
movement.
>
> I've seen other wingtip lens on the 6A that have several screws & washers along
each edge of the lens. Has something changed? Different lens material? Would
it be better to at least add more screws?
>
> While I'm on Plexiglas ... the owner of the 6A I was looking at said that some
of his friends who do acrobatics, have had the fiberglass bond of the windshield
forward edge crack where it bonds to the aluminum. They are adding an aluminum
strip riveted to the skin that comes up over the Plexiglas 3/4" or so to
add mechanical strength, then glassing over that ... comments?
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156251#156251
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Parker Rolo-Flair tool |
Thanks for the tips. The wheels on mine definitely won't budge. I've tried using
as much force as I can with only my hands and they won't move. If there is a
spring there, I can't feel it.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156263#156263
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0956, IMG_0952 |
Its always a question whether the wings will match the fuselage when both
are QBs from different batches. we used grade 8 3/8s and 9/16s sizes. we
also had two long 3/8s of normal variety. We found the normal hardware bolts
to be about .369 and .559 respectively. The grade 8s were .373 and .559. The
NAS bolts were .373 and .561. Buy the ACE bolts and use a band saw to cut
off the threads; then grind and polish the ends with the grinder and
scotchbrite wheels. We lubed with LPS2. The actual time to install each wing
was about 5 minutes but the time to trim and install the fairings totaled
about 4.5 hours. That was after my pre prep of a couple of hours pulling the
hardware and tools necessary from the kit trays. Thanks Deems and Paul and
Tom for the extra muscle.
David and Claude
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|