Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:44 AM - Baggage door seal (gary)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: Baggage door seal (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
3. 06:15 AM - Re: Baggage door seal (Tim Olson)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: Baggage door seal (RV10 4JF)
5. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a (Pascal)
6. 10:33 AM - Flap position indicator (Henkjan van der Zouw)
7. 12:35 PM - Gear and Nose Leg Fairings TE closure (John W. Cox)
8. 02:57 PM - Re: Flap position indicator (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
9. 03:02 PM - Re: Dropped the flaps (Lew Gallagher)
10. 03:16 PM - Paint Pix (gary)
11. 05:17 PM - Re: Paint Pix (Paul Grimstad)
12. 05:27 PM - Cabin door half alignment (Chris)
13. 05:29 PM - Re: Paint Pix (Lew Gallagher)
14. 06:36 PM - Re: Dropped the flaps (johngoodman)
15. 08:20 PM - wing tips (John Gonzalez)
16. 08:32 PM - disregard - test (Dave Leikam)
17. 09:20 PM - Re: Wingtip lens (Lew Gallagher)
18. 10:49 PM - Re: Flap position indicator (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Baggage door seal |
I know the question has been asked before, but a search did not produce any
answers. What door seal works with the baggage door. I got some from Lowes
but it is too thick and McMaster doesn't show any the right size.
Suggestions from all you flying guys?
Gary
40274
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door seal |
I ended up using some that I purchased at Home Depot. I initially bought a
roll of door seal that was the gray colored foam with a rectangular cross
section. I bought the thinnest one available and it just wouldn't work becau
se it
was to thick.
I found a different style that worked perfectly on an adjacent shelf at Hom
e
Depot: the box is out at the hangar so I can't give you a brand/model name
right now, but it is made of extremely soft tan colored foam that squishes
flat very well. Also the cross section has 3 ridges (it kind of looks like
this:
/\/\/\ ), so there isn't as much material to begin with. As far as my
passengers can tell (I've never ridden back there) it is sealed perfectly a
nd
allows for easy opening and closing of the door.
-Jim
N312JE
_
In a message dated 1/13/2008 7:46:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
speckter@comcast.net writes:
I know the question has been asked before, but a search did not produce any
answers. What door seal works with the baggage door. I got some from Lowe
s
but it is too thick and McMaster doesn=99t show any the right size.
Suggestions from all you flying guys?
Gary
40274
_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door seal |
I think I have 2 types on mine. Some is very thin rectangular strip for
the areas with tight clearance, and some is P shaped grey foam.
It all seems to seal pretty well. I haven't sealed along the
hinge yet, but don't notice lots of leakage either.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
gary wrote:
> I know the question has been asked before, but a search did not produce
> any answers. What door seal works with the baggage door. I got some
> from Lowes but it is too thick and McMaster doesnt show any the right
> size. Suggestions from all you flying guys?
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door seal |
Check out the seals from Brown Aircraft. They have a good assortment.
www.brownaircraft.com
JF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157799#157799
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a |
I'll also search your site for "bondo" ... I have many years experience with
cars -- (first plane!) is there a reason why folks don't just use a thin
skim coat of bondo over these fiberglass joints to smooth them up? It's so
easy, there must be SOMETHING wrong with it!
weight! using microballoons and epoxy weighs less.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 6:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cutting front baffll CB-1001a
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Our finishing kit is supposed to be shipped on Mon. and when we're
> actually at that stage I'm sure I'll understand your comments about
> sealing in the ramps better. In the meantime, I went back and surfed
> through your site to see if I could find a picture. The only one I found
> so far is just after you fitted the cowl and trimmed around the governor.
> Any chance you have close ups of the sealing?
>
> Also, I ran across a reference to your adding toner to the fiberglass on
> the windshield to aluminum bond. I'll try to retrace to that stage to see
> what that's about, or maybe that's in the finish kit too.
>
> I'll also search your site for "bondo" ... I have many years experience
> with cars -- (first plane!) is there a reason why folks don't just use a
> thin skim coat of bondo over these fiberglass joints to smooth them up?
> It's so easy, there must be SOMETHING wrong with it!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157613#157613
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Flap position indicator |
Hello all,
I'm currently installing the ACS AF 2500 engine monitor, for the flap
position indicator the manual says, "any 5K potentiometer" will give a
measurement.
Searching the archives I found that I need a Ray Allen Pos 12 sensor,
anybody who did this already? If yes I would like some pictures, no
pictures found in the archives.
Thanks for the help,
RV10 40355
Henkjan van der Zouw
ZME v.o.f.
Rijksstraatweg 28
3545NA
Utrecht
Netherlands
tel. ..31 30 6665443
mob. ..31 653235372
fax. ..31 30 6664659
www.zme.nl
Message 7
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| Subject: | Gear and Nose Leg Fairings TE closure |
There was no response to the subject, but I will close out the issue of
fiberglass failure of attachment rivets with an alternate product for
consideration. The rivets won out - forcing a repair.
The plastic airplane boys have given consideration to John Barrett of
Barrett/Garrett Enterprises and their composite hinge attached by Hysol
composite adhesive to the composite (fiberglass) fairing. A novel
solution to dissimilar products attached by adhesive rather than solely
metal rivets. On the RV-10 a few newer design features have been added
to reduce the occurrence but the vibration is still working on it.
Here is the website and information. No indication of failure should be
visible for several years down the road. We are affecting the repair
today on a 1999 RV built aircraft.
John Barrett, CEO
Barrett/Garrett Enterprises, Inc.
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
John Barrett [2thman@cablespeed.com]
He is a Doctor of Dentistry just like John Gonzales for a primary
occupation but is a wealth of knowledge on plastic aircraft components
and use of automotive engines with PSRUs on the front end for safe
aircraft operations.
John Cox (with no business affiliation)
#40600
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Flap position indicator |
Pictures of my POS-12 switch install are posted to this thread:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31209_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31209)
-Jim
N312JE
In a message dated 1/13/2008 1:35:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
henkjan@zme.nl writes:
Hello all,
I=99m currently installing the ACS AF 2500 engine monitor, for the fl
ap
position indicator the manual says, =9Cany 5K potentiometer=9D
will give a
measurement.
Searching the archives I found that I need a Ray Allen Pos 12 sensor,
anybody who did this already? If yes I would like some pictures, no picture
s found
in the archives.
Thanks for the help,
RV10 40355
Henkjan van der Zouw
ZME v.o.f.
Rijksstraatweg 28
3545NA
Utrecht
Netherlands
tel. ..31 30 6665443
mob. ..31 653235372
fax. ..31 30 6664659
_www.zme.nl_ (http://www.zme.nl/)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped the flaps |
Hey John,
I liked your idea of getting parts UP out of the way, so today I hung my RV-10
tail feathers with strapping material. I just rolled each end about 5 layers
and ran a sheetrock screw through it into a ceiling joist.
This will be my tail section, but for now we're working on my friend's RV-10. After
I finish the '33 Ford streetrod and get it out of the way, that space becomes
a paint booth and I'll paint his section by section. And THEN I'll get
back to mine!
What did you ever do about your dent? As soft and thin as this aluminum is, I
was curious if you tried the suction puller.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157870#157870
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hung_medium_299.jpg
Message 10
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I have a few Pix of my new paint Job. Enjoy
Gary
40274
Message 11
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Gary
That paint job look really good. Nice work.
Where are you located?
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint Pix
>
> I have a few Pix of my new paint Job. Enjoy
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Cabin door half alignment |
I was wondering if any one has had a problem with clecoing the cabin
door shells together with the 4 alignment holes at each corner of the
window cut out. If I cleco the bottom corners the top corners miss by
about a 1/4 inch. (see photo) They seem to almost line up fore and aft
but are 1/4 inch off up and down. I tried clamping from the bottom of
the window cut out moving up thinking that it might be a tight fit and
all but that didn't work either. I could cleco the fore and aft door to
fuselage alignment holes woth no problem too. I have the pink colored
finish kit doors and cowling if that makes a difference.
Thanks in advance fro replies to the greatest list in RV world.
Chris Lucas
40072 Finish and Panel
Message 13
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Hey Gary,
Looks like a Bulldawg to me! Outstanding! Did you paint it yourself?
Can you share some details? i.e. brand names: self-ecth primer, primer, basecoat
clearcoat urethane/acrylic enamel, taped stripes, etc.?
Later, - Lew (Greenville, SC)
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157886#157886
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dropped the flaps |
Lew,
I haven't tried to remove the dent yet. I left the flaps hanging from the ceiling
for now. I'll probably get a good auto body repair guy to come take a look
in the next few months - a lot of car sheet metal nowadays is aluminum. My big
problem is that I've committed to polishing, so it's sort of obvious. The dent
is so small that I'm worried that suction will do more harm than good.
I quit flogging myself and I've moved on to building. Currently riveting the last
bottom skin on the left wing. It would be easy except that the skin fits over
a flap hinge that prohibits easy access. The joys of building....
John
Lew Gallagher wrote:
> Hey John,
>
> I liked your idea of getting parts UP out of the way, so today I hung my RV-10
tail feathers with strapping material. I just rolled each end about 5 layers
and ran a sheetrock screw through it into a ceiling joist.
>
> This will be my tail section, but for now we're working on my friend's RV-10.
After I finish the '33 Ford streetrod and get it out of the way, that space
becomes a paint booth and I'll paint his section by section. And THEN I'll get
back to mine!
>
> What did you ever do about your dent? As soft and thin as this aluminum is,
I was curious if you tried the suction puller.
>
> Later, - Lew
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157900#157900
Message 15
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I am ready to dimple the wing skins for the #6 screws that will hold the wi
ng tips on. What did people do to place the dimples in the wing skin. It se
ems that there is not enough space to allow the dimple die to get at the ho
le in the skin without the side of the die hitting up against the web of th
e ribs. I even ground down female of my #6 die all the way to the dimple an
d it still isn't completely lining up with the hole.
So what have others used to place these dimples in the skin???
Thanks,
JOhn G. 409
Message 16
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| Subject: | disregard - test |
test test
Dave Leikam
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Wingtip lens |
Thanks Deems and Dave,
I've added two countersunk screws/nut plates on each lens (top and bottom toward
the leading edge (5" and 4.5" from corner) with no problems, and that seems
much tighter.
My pilot (I'm the builder) has NO intentions of getting upside down in the RV-10
-- I just wondered if anybody else had heard about the cracks in the 6 windshield/aluminum
bond, and thought that now would be the time to consider beefing
it up. We may still consider putting a 12' or so strip in the center.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
waiting on RV-10 finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157930#157930
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Flap position indicator |
Whoops, my mistake, I thought you could see the POS-12 in those posted
pictures. Here are some photos of my POS-12 installation. I attached it to t
he
inside of the tunnel near the flap actuator using blind rivets. I made a
connection using model airplane a threaded pushrod with a z-bend at one end
an a
brass clevis at the other. I had to measure carefully/experiment a bit to s
elect
the appropriate attachment points and mounting angle to get the right throw
and to avoid binding.
-Jim
N312JE
In a message dated 1/13/2008 6:00:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
JSMcGrew@aol.com writes:
Pictures of my POS-12 switch install are posted to this thread:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31209_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31209)
-Jim
N312JE
In a message dated 1/13/2008 1:35:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
henkjan@zme.nl writes:
Hello all,
I=99m currently installing the ACS AF 2500 engine monitor, for the fl
ap
position indicator the manual says, =9Cany 5K potentiometer=9D
will give a
measurement.
Searching the archives I found that I need a Ray Allen Pos 12 sensor,
anybody who did this already? If yes I would like some pictures, no picture
s found
in the archives.
Thanks for the help,
RV10 40355
Henkjan van der Zouw
ZME v.o.f.
Rijksstraatweg 28
3545NA
Utrecht
Netherlands
tel. ..31 30 6665443
mob. ..31 653235372
fax. ..31 30 6664659
_www.zme.nl_ (http://www.zme.nl/)
____________________________________
Start the year off right. _Easy ways to stay in shape_
(http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489) i
n the new year.
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
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