Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:07 AM - Satelite reception (gary)
2. 09:56 AM - Re: Upholstery (Michael Wellenzohn)
3. 10:02 AM - Re: Coax stripping (John Ackerman)
4. 10:38 AM - Re: Satelite reception (Michael Kraus)
5. 02:46 PM - Re: Coax stripping (Rick Sked)
6. 05:08 PM - Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") (Gerry Filby)
7. 05:35 PM - Re: Re: Upholstery (Chris)
8. 05:36 PM - Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") (Rick Sked)
9. 06:38 PM - Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") (Gerry Filby)
10. 07:13 PM - Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") (Rick Sked)
11. 07:28 PM - Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") (Gerry Filby)
12. 08:06 PM - Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") (Pascal)
13. 08:56 PM - Tailcone side skins (William Britton)
14. 09:26 PM - Re: Tailcone side skins (Steven DiNieri)
15. 10:07 PM - Re: Tailcone side skins (Dave Leikam)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Satelite reception |
I have been firing up the electronics on my RV10 and to my amazement while
my fuselage was inside the garage both the Nav GPS and the WX satellite have
good reception and lock on. Truly amazing. Almost makes me giddy.
Gary
40274
Message 2
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Here is the link with all the information and colors of the comfort textile
http://www.gabriel.dk/uk/textiles/textiles/13/?no_cache=1
I guess there will be also distribution points in the US, this is a danish link.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160577#160577
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Coax stripping |
Outcome:
I worked with Pasternack, and found that the stripped lengths that
my stripper (and most others, I'd wager) gives are well off optimum,
but OK. They will give a reliable connection, but are not what the
data sheets specify. It seems you have to have worked with this stuff
to know what you can get away with.
The center conductor insertion issue is strictly a matter of
developing good technique. It is very easy to bend or displace one or
more strands of the center conductor of RG400. That makes it very
hard to slide the pin over it, so considerable care is required not
to damage the bundle of strands . Although bent stands can be combed
back, and the bundle can be made round by twisting slightly (it tends
to flatten if {when?} you clip it to length), these remedies are hard
to do and often don't work.
Thanks to Rick and Tim for their quick and accurate replies.
John Ackerman 40458
trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid.
On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:17 PM, John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Oops - 2 antennae, four cables (two per antenna)
>> Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping?
>>
>> I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic
>> system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length.
>> There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16
>> feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are
>> routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly
>> could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive.
>>
>> My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for
>> depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts
>> RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning
>> required. However...
>> First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That
>> corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs.
>> Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is
>> 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The
>> cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is
>> 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length.
>> Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly
>> critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units
>> that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow
>> adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some,
>> including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid?
>> Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no
>> spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to
>> be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this
>> common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into
>> the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is
>> 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin
>> will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm...
>> Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated.
>> John Ackerman 40458
>>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Satelite reception |
Works in a wooden structure very well, won't work in most metal structures...
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: 01/26/08 11:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Satelite reception
I have been firing up the electronics on my RV10 and to my amazement while
my fuselage was inside the garage both the Nav GPS and the WX satellite have
good reception and lock on. Truly amazing. Almost makes me giddy.
Gary
40274
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Coax stripping |
John,
Sorry for not getting back BACK to you. My strippers are the same ones Dan Checkoway posted on his site, here's the link http://www.rvproject.com/20041005.html
The blade depth is adjustable by hex head screw, the blades can be relocated to
different slots depending on the strip you want. Mine came preset for RG-400
and has worked flawlessly from day one. Just for giggles I went out and checked
the measurement's and they were right there for what the package on the BNC/TNC
connectors called for.These were fairly expensive connectors in comparison
to others I had priced, like $12 each for Ampehnol.
Hung the prop today....now the neighbors think it's an airboat instead of a sail
boat :)
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 9:57:14 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax stripping
Outcome:
I worked with Pasternack, and found that the stripped lengths that
my stripper (and most others, I'd wager) gives are well off optimum,
but OK. They will give a reliable connection, but are not what the
data sheets specify. It seems you have to have worked with this stuff
to know what you can get away with.
The center conductor insertion issue is strictly a matter of
developing good technique. It is very easy to bend or displace one or
more strands of the center conductor of RG400. That makes it very
hard to slide the pin over it, so considerable care is required not
to damage the bundle of strands . Although bent stands can be combed
back, and the bundle can be made round by twisting slightly (it tends
to flatten if {when?} you clip it to length), these remedies are hard
to do and often don't work.
Thanks to Rick and Tim for their quick and accurate replies.
John Ackerman 40458
trying to get as much done as possible before installing cabin lid.
On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:17 PM, John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Oops - 2 antennae, four cables (two per antenna)
>> Can someone help a newbie with coax stripping?
>>
>> I'm hoping I'm just too tentative (fussy), but I have a traffic
>> system that is exceptionally sensitive to coax antenna length.
>> There are 4 antennae and they all have to have RG400 length of 16
>> feet and all four need to be matched in length. Two of them are
>> routed more or less irreversibly, so one error in final assembly
>> could be a disaster, or at least quite expensive.
>>
>> My 3-blade coax stripper (H-tools, Taiwan) is adjustable for
>> depth of cut but not for length of insulator exposed. It cuts
>> RG-400 like a charm with very little adjustment or learning
>> required. However...
>> First issue: The cutter leaves 0.32" of braid exposed. That
>> corresponds nicely with the connector manufacturer's specs.
>> Pasternack Enterprises model PE4450 right angle male TNC spec is
>> 0.300" and PE4044 straight male TNC requires 0.325". Good! The
>> cutter leaves 0.16" of insulation exposed. The Pasternack spec is
>> 0.100". Not so good? There is no way to adjust that length.
>> Could it be that the exposed length of insulator is not terribly
>> critical, because Googling coax strippers doesn't show any units
>> that specify the lengths that they cut, or any that allow
>> adjustment of the exposed insulator length, although some,
>> including mine, seem to be adjustable for length of exposed braid?
>> Second issue: Fit of the center conductor into the pin. There's no
>> spec on this, but It seems that 6 or so individual strands need to
>> be clipped to let the conductor slide into the pin. Is this
>> common? Am I missing something about fitting the conductor into
>> the pin? Also, the spec for the exposed center conductor length is
>> 0.100" (PE4044) or 0.125 (PE4450), but it appears that the pin
>> will accept at least 0.180". Hmmm...
>> Any help from the experts in this group is greatly appreciated.
>> John Ackerman 40458
>>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") |
Folks,
Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is
for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on
the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the
forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink
the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind
rivet will form ?
One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to
allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not
use a longer Cherry Max ?)
Must be missing something here ...
g
Message 7
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Thank you so much for the info!
-Chris
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 12:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Upholstery
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Here is the link with all the information and colors of the comfort
> textile
>
> http://www.gabriel.dk/uk/textiles/textiles/13/?no_cache=1
>
> I guess there will be also distribution points in the US, this is a danish
> link.
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160577#160577
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") |
G,
Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets that hold
in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of sorts...look
ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you normally will find your
answer there.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Folks,
Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is
for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on
the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the
forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink
the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind
rivet will form ?
One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to
allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not
use a longer Cherry Max ?)
Must be missing something here ...
g
Message 9
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| Subject: | Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") |
Ok. I got that one - Pg 7-4 Fig 2 calls those out "NUTPLATE ATTACH RIVET
HOLES CSK THIS SIDE". but on the right side of Fig 2, it calls out 2 more
"CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". Those are in common with the striker plates
not the nutplate ?
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
G,
Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets that
hold in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of
sorts...look ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you normally
will find your answer there.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Folks,
Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is
for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on
the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the
forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink
the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind
rivet will form ?
One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to
allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not
use a longer Cherry Max ?)
Must be missing something here ...
g
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") |
Ok...go to page 7-10 fig 2....you should see where the CS4-4's come into play...
It's been three years...had to dust off the plans.
Rick S.
40185
last 90 percent
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:33:24 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Ok. I got that one - Pg 7-4 Fig 2 calls those out "NUTPLATE ATTACH RIVET
HOLES CSK THIS SIDE". but on the right side of Fig 2, it calls out 2 more
"CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". Those are in common with the striker plates
not the nutplate ?
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
G,
Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets that
hold in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of
sorts...look ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you normally
will find your answer there.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Folks,
Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is
for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on
the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the
forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink
the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind
rivet will form ?
One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to
allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not
use a longer Cherry Max ?)
Must be missing something here ...
g
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") |
*duh* - "both countersunk to keep the material thickness within the grip
range" ....
That's gonna get a -5 Cherry Max ..
Thanks Rick :-)
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Ok...go to page 7-10 fig 2....you should see where the CS4-4's come into
play...
It's been three years...had to dust off the plans.
Rick S.
40185
last 90 percent
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:33:24 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Ok. I got that one - Pg 7-4 Fig 2 calls those out "NUTPLATE ATTACH RIVET
HOLES CSK THIS SIDE". but on the right side of Fig 2, it calls out 2 more
"CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". Those are in common with the striker plates
not the nutplate ?
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
G,
Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets that
hold in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of
sorts...look ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you normally
will find your answer there.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
Folks,
Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this is
for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on
the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the
forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why countersink
the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the blind
rivet will form ?
One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it to
allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why not
use a longer Cherry Max ?)
Must be missing something here ...
g
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?") |
either way you were right on Rick when you advised to go to the end and
look at the rivet callouts.
The plans are usually right on, when I was doing the initial steps I too
questioned if there was a better way to do it, in the end I figured out that
by going a few pages ahead and thinking through "why would I do that?" I see
that Van's was right .. sometimes after I made the mistake. Good of you to
ask Gerry, one will discover that there is 60% staring and thinking and 40%
actually doing the step, but as you move forward in the project it turns to
less time thinking and more time doing.. but there is always time needed to
think through the steps before doing it.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
>
> Ok...go to page 7-10 fig 2....you should see where the CS4-4's come into
> play...
>
> It's been three years...had to dust off the plans.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> last 90 percent
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:33:24 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
>
>
> Ok. I got that one - Pg 7-4 Fig 2 calls those out "NUTPLATE ATTACH RIVET
> HOLES CSK THIS SIDE". but on the right side of Fig 2, it calls out 2
> more
> "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". Those are in common with the striker plates
> not the nutplate ?
>
> g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:32 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
>
>
> G,
>
> Go to page 7-7 figure one,....the holes are countersunk for the rivets
> that
> hold in the hinge nutplate. You will find that if something sems out of
> sorts...look ahead a few pages...find where it gets attached...you
> normally
> will find your answer there.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 4:58:20 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder horn - (my first "Huh?")
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Fig 2 on Page 7-4 calls our "CSK THESE HOLES THIS SIDE". I believe this
> is
> for the 1/8" CS4-4 blind rivet that's in common with the striker plates on
> the forward side of the spar. However, Fig 4 calls out countersink on the
> forward side of the striker plates - which makes sense. So why
> countersink
> the opposing side on the horn ? Isn't that where the shop head of the
> blind
> rivet will form ?
>
> One thing that occurs is that a 4 length rivet seems to be short - is it
> to
> allow for adequate formation of the shop head ? ... (in which case why
> not
> use a longer Cherry Max ?)
>
> Must be missing something here ...
>
> g
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tailcone side skins |
I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after I
had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the edges on
the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done it. Do I
need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the bend??? Any
other useful hints/tips before I start pounding???
Thanks
Bill Britton
Message 14
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| Subject: | Tailcone side skins |
bill, i avoid rolling the edges whenever possible.(i just don't like the
crease left by the edge tool)... my side skins fit well enough to use out of
the box. i backrivet everything i can, and that may help keep things flat,
but it came out flawless.
so i think if your happy with the fit then keep rolling'. and if it starts
to scallop between rivets try back riveting.
steve dinieri
capsteve@adelphia.net
iflyrv10.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Britton
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 11:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone side skins
I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after I had
it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the edges on the
F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done it. Do I need to
roll them or do they turn out fine without the bend??? Any other useful
hints/tips before I start pounding???
Thanks
Bill Britton
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone side skins |
I did not roll the edges. The fit comes out nice and tight. I thought
about this after the fact but I am glad I did not roll them.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
starting QB fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: William Britton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 10:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone side skins
I am ready to rivet my tailcone together finally but I realized after
I had it all clecoed back together that I did not roll any of the edges
on the F-1073 side skins. How have those of you before me done it. Do
I need to roll them or do they turn out fine without the bend??? Any
other useful hints/tips before I start pounding???
Thanks
Bill Britton
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