Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus (Patrick ONeill)
2. 01:22 PM - Fiberglass class (Fred Williams, M.D.)
3. 02:38 PM - Re: Fiberglass class (Tim Olson)
4. 05:13 PM - Re: Fiberglass class (Lew Gallagher)
5. 05:21 PM - Re: Fiberglass class (Lew Gallagher)
6. 06:30 PM - Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus (orchidman)
7. 06:38 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (Rick Sked)
8. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (linn Walters)
9. 07:49 PM - Height (Fred Williams, M.D.)
10. 07:59 PM - Re: Fiberglass class (Lew Gallagher)
11. 08:17 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (Tim Olson)
12. 09:48 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (linn Walters)
13. 09:52 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (linn Walters)
14. 10:05 PM - O-540 C4B5 (dogsbark@comcast.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus |
Just to chime following the class...
Dave Saylor's workshop was really great. It took all the voodoo out of the
composite work on the 10 and was really a huge help in getting past the
"apprehensive thinking" stage into the "comfortable building" stage.
Dave's completed 10 was parked right next to us in the hanger during the
course and was a fantastic reference for both the class subjects and 1000's
of other questions regarding the how's and whys of the 10 build. (By the
way, Dave's polished wings look fantastic!) While the primary purpose of
the class was the glasswork, with a completed 10 sitting there next to us,
all manner of questions were answered and Dave was really great in helping
with all types of issues.
Dave was also kind enough to take up 3 loads of eager builders for some time
aloft in his 10 during a break in the weather on Saturday. Also on Saturday
the guinea pig cabin top was completely trimmed and fit to a QB fuse. Dave
also covered all composite topics from fairings to doors, to wheel pants and
also covered many tips and tricks for the windows as well. Dave has a lot
of neat tricks. In addition to the tricks, he also discussed materials,
tools, material sources, techniques, gotchas, and tips to fix some of the
problems/mistakes you may encounter.
Sunday was spent on more discussion and working on the class project where
each of us made a set of composite wheel chocks.
All in all a fantastic class made even better by the large group of 10
builders in attendance. It was great both to meet the other builders and
also to partake in the copious note sharing on build decisions and
challenges. (It was really great to meet all you guys that went!)
I would highly recommend it for anyone at that stage during a future class.
(Dave also asked for recommendations of other class topics to hold, so if
anyone has any particular areas of concern, you might want to drop him a
note.) It was money extremely well spent.
Also if any of you guys that went post any photos from the class, especially
of that really neat oil door mod and wheel pant intersection fairing mod,
please let me know.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus
poneill(at)irealms.com wrote:
> Are you sure Deems? It might be a good opportunity to pick up some ideas
> for your antenna pylon attach. But too bad you're so far ahead of us!
> --
That's no reason to stay away. I'd buy his lunch just to hear about his
overhead console attachment. [Mr. Green] I will be doing that someday.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157644#157644
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fiberglass class |
Patrick:
Any photos of cool mods would be appreciated.
Speaking of wheel pants. My friend who has a RV 10 here in Paris was
out at a grass strip this weekend. He had a loose right wheel pant from
the bolt holding the hexagonal support breaking. Fortunately, No major
damage done and we took the wheel pants off before anything was
seriously damaged. He's now getting one of the upgraded axle supports
made. Only 56 hrs on the hobbs. He's probably had the airplane for 20
hrs. Lives on a grass strip also.
Dr. Fred
Fitting the cowl this week.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/DrFredRv10Picasa
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
For the newbies in the group, here's what part Fred is talking
about:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
>
> Patrick:
>
> Any photos of cool mods would be appreciated.
> Speaking of wheel pants. My friend who has a RV 10 here in Paris was
> out at a grass strip this weekend. He had a loose right wheel pant from
> the bolt holding the hexagonal support breaking. Fortunately, No major
> damage done and we took the wheel pants off before anything was
> seriously damaged. He's now getting one of the upgraded axle supports
> made. Only 56 hrs on the hobbs. He's probably had the airplane for 20
> hrs. Lives on a grass strip also.
>
> Dr. Fred
> Fitting the cowl this week.
> http://picasaweb.google.com/drfredparis/DrFredRv10Picasa
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Thanks, Tim. I knew I'd seen it somewhere!
Later, - Lew
Do not archive.
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160945#160945
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Oh, by the way, we put the calipers on yesterday and it occurred to me that normally
the bleed screw would be on the top to get the air out. Is it done this
way to keep the brake line from being damaged on grass strips if it were on the
bottom?
And where did I see the exact height of the installed canopy with wheels on? We'll
soon be wondering about clearing the garage door!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160950#160950
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class in Watsonville with RV10 focus |
This was one GREAT CLASS. Any one coming close to the middle of their project
should watch out for the next time Dave offers this class and JUMP at it. I believe
it has saved me at least a month of build time and cost me another couple
weeks to put in all the great ideas I never thought about.
It sure was handy to have a finished example to look at as we cut up a brand new
top. It brought the project to life.
Thanks Dave for a fantastic weekend.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160971#160971
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Lew,
The bleeders go on the bottom of the caliper, you need to relocate one of them...check
the plans...it's in there.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 5:17:11 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass class
Oh, by the way, we put the calipers on yesterday and it occurred to me that normally
the bleed screw would be on the top to get the air out. Is it done this
way to keep the brake line from being damaged on grass strips if it were on the
bottom?
And where did I see the exact height of the installed canopy with wheels on? We'll
soon be wondering about clearing the garage door!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160950#160950
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>Oh, by the way, we put the calipers on yesterday and it occurred to me that normally
the bleed screw would be on the top to get the air out.
>
Well, it does work on your car!!!
> Is it done this way to keep the brake line from being damaged on grass strips
if it were on the bottom?
>
Not really. Aircraft brake systems are usually bled from the bottom up
and the bleed fitting is where the fluid goes in. This doesn't mean
that bleeding from the top down isn't effective ..... it's just easier
to bleed up.
Linn
>And where did I see the exact height of the installed canopy with wheels on?
We'll soon be wondering about clearing the garage door!
>
Hmmm. Ya got me on that one!!!! ;-)
Linn
do not archive
>
>Later, - Lew
>
>--------
>non-pilot
>crazy about building
>Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160950#160950
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Lew;
I measured 79 inches.
Dr Fred
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Thanks for the replies, Guys. I tried to reply through email so as not to clutter
up the forum, but the email wouldn't go through.
We already put the bleeders on the bottom as instructed, just seemed backwards
to me.
Linn, you fill the system from the bottom up? ... really? Sounds messy and impractical.
I've bled cars from the top down for the past 40 yrs. -- first plane,
so clue me in!
Use a hand pump, put a hose on the nipple and force fluid all the way up through
the pedal cylinders to the reservoir? But then the nipple has to be loose to
allow fluid in? One side then the other? And I must admit I haven't read ahead
to see if it's covered in a later section -- just got the calipers on and
had to call it a night.
Puzzled, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
I don't see it in the directions, but yes, fill a pump type oil can up
with brake fluid, and put a hose between it and the bleeder. Open the
bleeder and pump the fluid UP through the system until it fills the
master cylinder. you may have to remove some from the master cylinder
to make room for more, so you can pump enough until all the bubbles
are out. It works, and works well. Yes, definitely different than
doing cars.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Lew Gallagher wrote:
> <lewgall@charter.net>
>
> Thanks for the replies, Guys. I tried to reply through email so as
> not to clutter up the forum, but the email wouldn't go through.
>
> We already put the bleeders on the bottom as instructed, just seemed
> backwards to me.
>
> Linn, you fill the system from the bottom up? ... really? Sounds
> messy and impractical. I've bled cars from the top down for the past
> 40 yrs. -- first plane, so clue me in!
>
> Use a hand pump, put a hose on the nipple and force fluid all the way
> up through the pedal cylinders to the reservoir? But then the nipple
> has to be loose to allow fluid in? One side then the other? And I
> must admit I haven't read ahead to see if it's covered in a later
> section -- just got the calipers on and had to call it a night.
>
> Puzzled, - Lew
>
> -------- non-pilot crazy about building Landing gear installed, we're
> mobile!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>Thanks for the replies, Guys. I tried to reply through email so as not to clutter
up the forum, but the email wouldn't go through.
>
>We already put the bleeders on the bottom as instructed, just seemed backwards
to me.
>
>Linn, you fill the system from the bottom up?
>
Yup!
> ... really? Sounds messy and impractical.
>
And, it is.
> I've bled cars from the top down for the past 40 yrs. -- first plane, so clue
me in!
>
I did the same on cars..... a few years longer. I don't know why
airplanes have to be different. It's just the way I was taught.
>Use a hand pump, put a hose on the nipple and force fluid all the way up through
the pedal cylinders to the reservoir?
>
Yes. ACS sells a rather pricey coupling to make things easier:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/brake_bledders.php
I've used one (borrowed) and it sure makes it easier. Used a plain
garden sprayer that it was attached to. Only caveat is that the fluid
attacked the rubber in the sprayer.
I've also used a large plastic syringe with better success than the hand
pump (read squeeze type oil can) because your hand gets really tired
really quickly!
> But then the nipple has to be loose to allow fluid in?
>
Yes.
> One side then the other?
>
Yes.
> And I must admit I haven't read ahead to see if it's covered in a later section
>
I haven't either. I kinda doubt it's there, but will be pleasantly
surprised if it is.
> -- just got the calipers on and had to call it a night.
>
Wish I was that far along!!! :-)
Don't lose sleep over it.
>Puzzled, - Lew
>
Hate to tell ya this Lew, but the puzzlement is just starting. Don't
fret the small stuff (this one is) and keep plodding on.
Linn
do not archive
>
>--------
>non-pilot
>crazy about building
>Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
snip
> But then the nipple has to be loose to allow fluid in?
>
I hit the send button early .....
Another thought is that you really can replace the nipple with something
else to make filling easier. Just be quick swapping the nipple back in.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Puzzled, - Lew
>
>--------
>non-pilot
>crazy about building
>Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Looks like I may have found a sweet deal on an engine for my 10. It is a rebuilt
Lycoming O-540 C4B5. Will add injection system.
After searching the archives it appears this is a good fit for the ten with the
following considerations:
1. Engine mounting ears are too large.
2. Oil filler neck options may be different than D4A5.
3. "the work of getting the baffles fit around the case is a fair bit more on
the C4B5 (in my experience) than the D4A5",
Jesse Saint.
4. No clearance between the pan and engine mount.
Can anyone elaborate on these points and/or other things to look for?
Your help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
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