Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:35 AM - fuel vents (David McNeill)
2. 03:51 AM - Re: O-540 C4B5 (Russell Daves)
3. 04:20 AM - Re: fuel vents (Tim Olson)
4. 04:48 AM - Re: fuel vents (David McNeill)
5. 05:10 AM - Re: fuel vents (Tim Olson)
6. 05:13 AM - Bleeding Brakes (was Re: Fiberglass Class) (Phillips, Jack)
7. 06:14 AM - Re: Height (Rick Sked)
8. 06:23 AM - Re: O-540 C4B5 (Jesse Saint)
9. 06:29 AM - Re: fuel vents (Jesse Saint)
10. 06:42 AM - Re: fuel vents (zackrv8)
11. 06:48 AM - Re: Height (Lew Gallagher)
12. 07:06 AM - Re: fuel vents (Tim Olson)
13. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: fuel vents (Tim Olson)
14. 07:27 AM - RV10 for sale --- even cheaper (ivo welch)
15. 07:37 AM - Re: Re: fuel vents (Jesse Saint)
16. 07:38 AM - Chelton pricing/comparo (Pascal)
17. 08:17 AM - Re: fuel vents (Dave Lammers)
18. 08:58 AM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Tim Olson)
19. 09:22 AM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (John W. Cox)
20. 10:39 AM - Re: Re: Height (Rick Sked)
21. 10:41 AM - Re: Re: Height ()
22. 11:25 AM - Van's support (Pascal)
23. 11:45 AM - Re: Van's support (Tim Olson)
24. 12:39 PM - Height (Fred Williams, M.D.)
25. 12:49 PM - Re: Height (Rick Sked)
26. 01:16 PM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Eric Ekberg)
27. 01:27 PM - valve stem (Chris and Susie McGough)
28. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (eagerlee)
29. 02:09 PM - Re: Re: Windows Installation (Robert Wright)
30. 02:56 PM - Re: O-540 C4B5 (tom.on.the.road@juno.com)
31. 03:39 PM - Re: O-540 C4B5 (John Dunne)
32. 03:44 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass class (Tim Olson)
33. 03:46 PM - Re: HID Landing & Taxi Lights (Pascal)
34. 04:09 PM - Re: Re: Height (Byron Gillespie)
35. 04:15 PM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Robin Marks)
36. 05:11 PM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Pascal)
37. 05:15 PM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Eric Ekberg)
38. 05:56 PM - FW: [LML] Crossbow 500 on Ebay (John W. Cox)
39. 07:16 PM - Re: Re: fuel vents (Dave Leikam)
40. 07:22 PM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Deems Davis)
41. 07:37 PM - Re: Re: fuel vents (Tim Olson)
42. 07:38 PM - Re: Chelton pricing/comparo (Tim Olson)
43. 08:01 PM - Re: Re: fuel vents (David McNeill)
44. 09:41 PM - Re: O-540 C4B5 (dogsbark@comcast.net)
45. 11:49 PM - Re: Re: fuel vents (sam@fr8dog.net)
Message 1
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Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing
intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure the fuel
always flows.
Message 2
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I installed an IO-540C4B5 on my RV-10. I did have to change out the
ears but the oil sump had plenty of clearance with the engine mount.
I installed engine baffles but after a hot Texas summer I am in the
process of converting them to a James Aircraft plenum. I wish I had
gone with the James Aircraft plenum and cowl from the beginning as it
appears that the install of the plenum from scratch would have been
easier than the Van's baffle system and would have given me much better
cooling with less drag.
I am going with the James Aircraft plenum and cowl on the RV-7 I am in
the process of building as well.
Russ Daves
N710RV - RV-10 190+ hours
N65RV- RV-6A Sold
N742PZ - RV-8 Co-Builder
N____RV - RV-7, Waiting on QB Fuselage
Message 3
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No. Vic suggested to me once installing mini rudder fairings in front
of those lines to keep them clear, because yes indeed that's a place
where if ice formed you could be in a bad situation. I haven't stuck
anything on there yet, but I haven't been flying around in ice
either, luckily. You're right though, you may want to find a way to
deal with that area.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David McNeill wrote:
> Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing
> intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure the
> fuel always flows.
>
Message 4
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I think you want those vents pressurized with ram air to prevent fuel
flowing out during banked flight. I was thinking of some alternate vent
source. Cessna had a problem in the past with clogged vents which cutoff the
fuel flow and caused some fatal accidents; in some cases just caused
accidents by collapsing the internal tank.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel vents
No. Vic suggested to me once installing mini rudder fairings in front of
those lines to keep them clear, because yes indeed that's a place where if
ice formed you could be in a bad situation. I haven't stuck anything on
there yet, but I haven't been flying around in ice either, luckily. You're
right though, you may want to find a way to deal with that area.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David McNeill wrote:
> Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing
> intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure
> the fuel always flows.
>
Message 5
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Agreed, at least that's what I thought, too. You certainly
wouldn't want any ventury effect on them. I can't remember
if Vic had ice on his, or he put the fairings on as a preemptive
measure, but he's been flying them for a long time and not
seen issues with fuel leaking. Although, he also has tip
tanks and I don't know where the venting is done when you
add that into the equation....if they vent the mains,
and the tips, or what. It wouldn't take much of a vent
to solve the problem....I wonder if a one-way valve with
almost zero opening pressure, set to open IN, would
be a way to prevent a tank vacuum. It could be
mounted in the wing root fairing. Might not be a good
idea....just thinking aloud. That way though, if there
were a vacuum, it would suck air from the wing root, rather
than collapse a tank. Also, the valve would stay closed with
RAM air in the vent from the outside.
Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage
out of the caps on climbout with real full tanks. So perhaps
it isn't a worry anyway. I don't think the caps are vented
at all, but they may not be totally airtight, which might be
a good thing in this case.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
>
> I think you want those vents pressurized with ram air to prevent fuel
> flowing out during banked flight. I was thinking of some alternate vent
> source. Cessna had a problem in the past with clogged vents which cutoff the
> fuel flow and caused some fatal accidents; in some cases just caused
> accidents by collapsing the internal tank.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:12 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel vents
>
>
> No. Vic suggested to me once installing mini rudder fairings in front of
> those lines to keep them clear, because yes indeed that's a place where if
> ice formed you could be in a bad situation. I haven't stuck anything on
> there yet, but I haven't been flying around in ice either, luckily. You're
> right though, you may want to find a way to deal with that area.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>> Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing
>> intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure
>> the fuel always flows.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Bleeding Brakes (was RE: Fiberglass Class) |
You can find all the info you could ever want in the Tony Bingelis books
(no homebuilder should be without the whole set). An excerpt is
available in the "Homebuilders Headquarters" section of the EAA website.
Go to Member login, then "Building", then "Homebuilders HQ", then
"Building - Articles", then "Landing Gear, Wheels & Brakes". There are
several interesting articles listed, with the last one "Your Brake
Installation", telling you how to bleed the brakes. You can try this
link:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/landing/Your%20Brake%2
0Installation.html#TopOfPage
Most of the question you will come up against during the building of an
airplane are covered in Tony's 4 books: The Sportplane Builder,
Sportplane Construction Techniques, Firewall Forward and Tony Bingelis
on Engines. Tony built all the early Vans kits (RV-3, RV-4 and RV-6,
and he may have built an RV-8) in addition to a number of other
airplanes. His books are essential if you are building a plane from
scratch, and very helpful even when building such a nice kit as an
RV-10.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Waiting for the Wing kit to arrive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass class
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>Thanks for the replies, Guys. I tried to reply through email so as not
to clutter up the forum, but the email wouldn't go through.
>
>We already put the bleeders on the bottom as instructed, just seemed
backwards to me.
>
>Linn, you fill the system from the bottom up?
>
Yup!
> ... really? Sounds messy and impractical.
>
And, it is.
> I've bled cars from the top down for the past 40 yrs. -- first plane,
so clue me in!
>
I did the same on cars..... a few years longer. I don't know why
airplanes have to be different. It's just the way I was taught.
>Use a hand pump, put a hose on the nipple and force fluid all the way
up through the pedal cylinders to the reservoir?
>
Yes. ACS sells a rather pricey coupling to make things easier:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/brake_bledders.php
I've used one (borrowed) and it sure makes it easier. Used a plain
garden sprayer that it was attached to. Only caveat is that the fluid
attacked the rubber in the sprayer.
I've also used a large plastic syringe with better success than the hand
pump (read squeeze type oil can) because your hand gets really tired
really quickly!
> But then the nipple has to be loose to allow fluid in?
>
Yes.
> One side then the other?
>
Yes.
> And I must admit I haven't read ahead to see if it's covered in a
later section
>
I haven't either. I kinda doubt it's there, but will be pleasantly
surprised if it is.
> -- just got the calipers on and had to call it a night.
>
Wish I was that far along!!! :-)
Don't lose sleep over it.
>Puzzled, - Lew
>
Hate to tell ya this Lew, but the puzzlement is just starting. Don't
fret the small stuff (this one is) and keep plodding on.
Linn
do not archive
>
>--------
>non-pilot
>crazy about building
>Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160998#160998
>
>
>
>
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Message 7
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Yup....me too. I have a litle over an inch of clearance under my garage door.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:42:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Height
Lew;
I measured 79 inches.
Dr Fred
Message 8
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Well, it looks like you might have your baffles issue solved. Russ,
you want to sell your baffles?
We didn't have any issue with clearance on the engine mount. I get
the impression that Van's has changed the cross-bar to allow for more
clearance, but I don't know for sure.
Just make sure you know all of the details and price out any changes
before you buy. I know of at least 2 cases where the engine ended up
costing as much or almost as much as a new experimental by the time
everything was "fixed up". IMHO, the only way to get ahead with a
used engine, unless you build it up or overhaul it yourself (and think
through the resale value in this case) is to get an engine that is
running and runnable for at least a couple of years of use.
I am sure there are exceptions to this.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 29, 2008, at 12:47 AM, dogsbark@comcast.net wrote:
>
> Looks like I may have found a sweet deal on an engine for my 10. It
> is a rebuilt Lycoming O-540 C4B5. Will add injection system.
>
> After searching the archives it appears this is a good fit for the
> ten with the following considerations:
>
> 1. Engine mounting ears are too large.
> 2. Oil filler neck options may be different than D4A5.
> 3. "the work of getting the baffles fit around the case is a fair
> bit more on the C4B5 (in my experience) than the D4A5",
> Jesse Saint.
> 4. No clearance between the pan and engine mount.
>
> Can anyone elaborate on these points and/or other things to look for?
>
> Your help is appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
> #40225
>
>
Message 9
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N256H has been in inadvertent ice once or twice, enough to block the
pitot and have a chunk frozen onto the wing tiedown ring, a little
build-up on the leading edge (no noticeable change in flight
characteristics) and a partially blocked windscreen, but has never had
an issue with the vent. I don't know how much pressure it created,
but in coordinated banked flight the engine driven pump shouldn't need
too much help.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 29, 2008, at 5:16 AM, David McNeill wrote:
> Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing
> intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure
> the fuel always flows.
>
>
Message 10
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Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage
out of the caps on climbout with real full tanks.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim,
That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can be adjusted.
It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened to a happy compromise
between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O ring to lubricate
it, especially in the winter. Makes it much easier to install after that.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
Message 11
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Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able.
I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount for counterweights
-- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon jug on the
engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was right.
I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another one:
I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, and sure
enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get clearance?
Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060
Message 12
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It's not an issue with the pump being not strong enough, and needing
the pressurization on the vent. It's the issue that if you pump
fuel out of a sealed vessel, you'll suddenly end up with a vacuum
and if you keep pumping the fuel out, you can collapse the tank, or
prevent fuel from flowing because of the vacuum. That's the
big safety issue.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> N256H has been in inadvertent ice once or twice, enough to block the
> pitot and have a chunk frozen onto the wing tiedown ring, a little
> build-up on the leading edge (no noticeable change in flight
> characteristics) and a partially blocked windscreen, but has never had
> an issue with the vent. I don't know how much pressure it created, but
> in coordinated banked flight the engine driven pump shouldn't need too
> much help.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jan 29, 2008, at 5:16 AM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>> Are the fuel caps vented? Looks like the fuel vents below the wing
>> intersection fairing could be impact iced. Just trying to make sure
>> the fuel always flows.
>> *
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
Message 13
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Yeah, it's not much fuel, but a little. My caps are darn tight.
It takes a lot of wiggling and work to get them out, and I
have to pop the lever, which is also very stiff and let the
cap relax a minute before pulling them out. The Orings are also
not super elastic....but rather stiff. So it makes for a pretty
hard to get off gas cap. I never tried lubricating it with
fuel for reinsertion....insertion isn't usually the issue, but
removal can be tough. I doubt I'm losing more than a fuel-tester
full on a flight with real full tanks...but I do know that it's
not so sealed tight that it will keep air out.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
zackrv8 wrote:
>
> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage out of
> the caps on climbout with real full tanks. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD -
> Flying do not archive
>
> Tim,
>
> That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can be
> adjusted. It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened to a
> happy compromise between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
>
> After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O ring
> to lubricate it, especially in the winter. Makes it much easier to
> install after that.
>
> Zack
>
> -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV10 for sale --- even cheaper |
I have a pro-built RV10 for sale (via Noel Simmons, a regular reader
and occasional contributor in this forum). More information about my
airplane can be found at http://welch.econ.brown.edu/n325hp/ . It was
upgraded from the 3-blade fixed-pitch prop to the standard 2-blade
constant speed prop. the main modifications from the standard design
today are that the engine is the fine-tuned version of the 260hp
Lycoming (from aeroperformance), and that the rear is a bench, rather
than 2 seats, thereby allowing 3 children to sit in the back. the
avionics are high-end, and everything was purchased new. It was
basically flown for only about 160 hours (including tests) to keep it
in good operating conditions. (by the time it came around, I was the
proud father of a newborn, which made me realize that I did not have
the time to fly anymore.) the airplane is really new, was always
hangared, etc. when all was said and done, including some mistakes
along the way, I have probably spent about $230,000 on the airplane,
and Noel's price has gone up that would make it a $250,000 airplane if
you were to rebuild it.
The airplane is advertised for $199,000 with a warranty. If someone
wants to buy a solid RV10 airplane for $179,000, ready to fly, as-is,
I would at this point be ready to accept it. it is a steal at this
price. the parts alone are more expensive.
if you are interested, please let me know. first come, first serve.
sincerely,
/ivo welch
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 15
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We have seen this issue, but when you pull the lever up, if you push
straight down on the lever, it will release the pressure on the o-ring
and come right out. Have you tried this?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 29, 2008, at 10:01 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Yeah, it's not much fuel, but a little. My caps are darn tight.
> It takes a lot of wiggling and work to get them out, and I
> have to pop the lever, which is also very stiff and let the
> cap relax a minute before pulling them out. The Orings are also
> not super elastic....but rather stiff. So it makes for a pretty
> hard to get off gas cap. I never tried lubricating it with
> fuel for reinsertion....insertion isn't usually the issue, but
> removal can be tough. I doubt I'm losing more than a fuel-tester
> full on a flight with real full tanks...but I do know that it's
> not so sealed tight that it will keep air out.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> zackrv8 wrote:
>> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage out of
>> the caps on climbout with real full tanks. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD -
>> Flying do not archive
>> Tim,
>> That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can be
>> adjusted. It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened to a
>> happy compromise between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
>> After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O ring
>> to lubricate it, especially in the winter. Makes it much easier to
>> install after that.
>> Zack
>> -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Chelton pricing/comparo |
I hear that Chelton may be becoming more affordable with a recent price
reduction.. anyone know what Cheltons are going for now?
I am thinking dual screen Cheltons versus a OPtech dual, anyone have any
thoughts of the difference between the two and any advantages of one
over the other..
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 17
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|
Tim, et al.,
The RV caps are not supposed to leak and are designed to be totally sealed.
You can adjust the pressure on the O-ring by tightening the nut on the
bottom of the cap.
Re the icing issue. I am planning a small hole (#50 or so) on the aft
side of the exposed vent (above the front opening).
The loss in ram pressure due to the hole is insignificant (because of
its size) yet the hole will serve as a vent in the event of a blocked
vent tube.
A KISS solution to an alternate vent.
Dave Lammers
Finishing
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage
> out of the caps on climbout with real full tanks.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Chelton pricing/comparo |
I'm not sure what they ended up at, but I think it's in the mid or
upper 20's. A good drop from the way they were headed before.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
> I hear that Chelton may be becoming more affordable with a recent price
> reduction.. anyone know what Cheltons are going for now?
> I am thinking dual screen Cheltons versus a OPtech dual, anyone have any
> thoughts of the difference between the two and any advantages of one
> over the other..
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | Chelton pricing/comparo |
Razz Deems so we can get an operational report of the Dual OP Techs in
flying RV-10s. A comparison much like Tim's would sway more builders to
consider the former OP Technologies. The other purchasers of OP (I know
of four) might pipe up so builders know there are quite a few who have
made the purchase.
I understand that Stein has sold at least two customers the G-900
systems to install in RV-10s but have no more info on that development.
As Mike has said, competition is a great thing. Someday soon we can get
Tim to level the playing field with GRT, Chelton, G-900 and OP to do a
Head to Head posting. Then to make matters worse there is the Three
Pack Aspen replacement in one, two or three screens. Don't forget all
those builder placing dual and three screen AFS units as well. Chelton
has done well for three years. Now the field is quite colorful.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 7:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Chelton pricing/comparo
I hear that Chelton may be becoming more affordable with a recent price
reduction.. anyone know what Cheltons are going for now?
I am thinking dual screen Cheltons versus a OPtech dual, anyone have any
thoughts of the difference between the two and any advantages of one
over the other..
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 20
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Thats what I did. I had my tire rim assembled before the info on swapping out the
assembly came along.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:44:11 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height
Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able.
I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount for counterweights
-- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon jug on the
engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was right.
I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another one:
I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear, and sure
enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get clearance?
Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060
Message 21
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Is that just to the top of your canopy? I would think the top of the VS would
be much higher.
>
> From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> Date: 2008/01/29 Tue AM 09:07:08 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Height
>
>
> Yup....me too. I have a litle over an inch of clearance under my garage door.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:42:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Height
>
>
> Lew;
>
> I measured 79 inches.
>
> Dr Fred
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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Lew mentioned - "I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ...
here's another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for
the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. "
try Van's on this one, if it's wrong they'll replace it, if it's fine
they'll tell you how to resolve it.
Said it before and will repeat- they are a great group at Van's for support,
sometimes I feel like I am asking a doubt question, but truthfully more
times than not they have put my issue to rest quite quickly and showed me
how they might suggest resolving it..
If the part is wrong, they will replace it (no cost) and ship it right out..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height
>
> Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able.
>
> I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine mount
> for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5 gallon
> jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the weight was
> right.
>
> I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's another
> one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the nose gear,
> and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly to get
> clearance?
>
> Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day!
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Van's support |
Interestingly, this has not been historically true in the case of
the nosewheel valve stem....but hey, if they can come around on
that one, that would be fantastic. (I can see all the heads
nodding from those who sent their rim in and got a new one
from the manufacturer)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
>
> Lew mentioned - "I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads
> ... here's another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong
> one for the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. "
>
> try Van's on this one, if it's wrong they'll replace it, if it's fine
> they'll tell you how to resolve it.
> Said it before and will repeat- they are a great group at Van's for
> support, sometimes I feel like I am asking a doubt question, but
> truthfully more times than not they have put my issue to rest quite
> quickly and showed me how they might suggest resolving it..
> If the part is wrong, they will replace it (no cost) and ship it right
> out..
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:44 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height
>
>
>>
>> Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able.
>>
>> I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine
>> mount for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a
>> 5 gallon jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the
>> weight was right.
>>
>> I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's
>> another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for
>> the nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem
>> slightly to get clearance?
>>
>> Whoo Hoo! This just gets better every day!
>>
>> Later, - Lew
>>
>> --------
>> non-pilot
>> crazy about building
>> Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161060#161060
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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Yup. 79 to the top of the canopy. vertical stabilzer's off for now.
I have the tail feathers off for their protection and for room in the
shop. Too tempting to lay stuff on the horizontal stabilizer.
Dr Fred.
Message 25
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No vertical stab included...just to the top of the cabin
----- Original Message -----
From: rv@thelefflers.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 10:36:23 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: Height
Is that just to the top of your canopy? I would think the top of the VS would
be much higher.
>
> From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> Date: 2008/01/29 Tue AM 09:07:08 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Height
>
>
> Yup....me too. I have a litle over an inch of clearance under my garage door.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:42:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Height
>
>
> Lew;
>
> I measured 79 inches.
>
> Dr Fred
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Chelton pricing/comparo |
I vote that Tim and Deems trade planes for a few flights and report back.
In lurking on this list the only conclusion I've been able to come to is
that I don't know enough to come to a conclusion on my own.
-Eric
do not archive
On Jan 29, 2008 12:13 PM, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> Razz Deems so we can get an operational report of the Dual OP Techs in
> flying RV-10s. A comparison much like Tim's would sway more builders to
> consider the former OP Technologies. The other purchasers of OP (I know of
> four) might pipe up so builders know there are quite a few who have made the
> purchase.
>
>
> I understand that Stein has sold at least two customers the G-900 systems
> to install in RV-10s but have no more info on that development.
>
>
> As Mike has said, competition is a great thing. Someday soon we can get
> Tim to level the playing field with GRT, Chelton, G-900 and OP to do a Head
> to Head posting. Then to make matters worse there is the Three Pack Aspen
> replacement in one, two or three screens. Don't forget all those builder
> placing dual and three screen AFS units as well. Chelton has done well for
> three years. Now the field is quite colorful.
>
>
> John
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Pascal
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 29, 2008 7:34 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Chelton pricing/comparo
>
>
> I hear that Chelton may be becoming more affordable with a recent price
> reduction.. anyone know what Cheltons are going for now?
>
> I am thinking dual screen Cheltons versus a OPtech dual, anyone have any
> thoughts of the difference between the two and any advantages of one over
> the other..
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Pascal
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Message 27
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Throw the little valve cap away and put a smaller one on . It does not rub
then. Cost 0
regards Chris
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
I'm sure Tim meant to say "aviation hydraulic fluid" rather than "Brake
Fluid".
I don't see it in the directions, but yes, fill a pump type oil
can up
with brake fluid, and put a hose between it and the bleeder.
PH
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Windows Installation |
I'd love to see some in progress pic of this or anything to use along with your
narrative!
Rob Wright
#392
Just got off 7 month BI
----- Original Message ----
From: jim berry <jimberry@qwest.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 2:35:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windows Installation
Chuck,
I completed the windows and windscreen with the help of 2 local composite pros who have done a lot of Lancair work. Now that I have seen how the pros do it, it is not nearly so intimidating. We used Hysol EA9360 available from www.aerospace.henkel.com or its dealers. Actually a Loctite product. My understanding is that Hysol is the adhesive Lancair uses for pressurized windows, wings, etc.
After taping the inner surface of the windows with 2 layers of electrical tape
we painted the exposed window edge and the outer surface of the cabin flange with
Hysol. Then added flox to the Hysol till we had a peanut butter consistency;
applied that about 1/8" thick to the flange. We had at least 1 hour working
time with the Hysol, so there was no rush. Positioned the window on the flange
and clecoed in place with fender washers about every 1.5" The washers are easier
than making the al. fingers some have used, and they put the pressure right
on the edge of the window where you want it. You want a little squeeze out
of the flox both inside and outside. Predrill the holes for the clecos before
mixing the Hysol. While one person clecos around the edge of the window, a second
person inside carefully scrapes off the squeeze out flush with the edge of
the flange. Don't worry about squeeze out on the outside till it cures, when
you can grind or chisel off the
excess.
After smoothing the cured Hysol on the outside you will probably have some minor
irregularities which can be filled with flox. We applied a 2 bid layer of glass
to the outside using a trick I have not seen mentioned here before. Maybe
that is because I am the only one who didn't know about it. We positioned 2 layers
of electrical tape on the outside of the window so that the outer edge matched
the inner edge of the flange per usual. Then temporarily taped a layer of
clear painters plastic to the cabin top so that it draped smoothly over the
window. With a Sharpie carefully mark the outer edge of the electrical tape so
that you have a good template of the window flange. Mark the outer edge of this
template where you want the edge of the glass to fall. We made separate pieces
for each corner of the window, with additional straight strips connecting
the corner pieces.You want to end up with a template about 2-2.5" wide that exactly
matches the window
flange. Don't cut out the p!
ieces yet. We wound up with 7-8 pieces for each window.
Remove the clear plastic, place it on your cutting table and begin to wet out 2
layers of glass on top of the template. The Sharpie lines will show through.
Orient the glass diagonally on the template so that the corner curves cut smoothly.
Place a second layer of clear plastic on top of the wetted glass and squeegy(sp)
out the excess. Cut out 1 piece of your template, peel off the bottom
layer of plastic, and position the wetted cloth on the window. Focus your efforts
on getting the cloth positioned exactly up to the edge of the electrical
tape. If you take care with this step you will wind up with a nearly finished
edge that needs very little clean up.
Take your time with this. Even with the help of guys who have done this many times
before we still have 20 man hours in doing all the windows, but they look
really slick.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158352#158352
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Message 30
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The only C4B5 is injected (it is an IO-540-C4B5, normally out of an
Aztec). It can be modified to fit an RV-10. I sold one last month for
that very purpose. The C4B5 is rated at 250 HP @2575 RPM. Since it is
basically the same engine, the D4 series is rated 260 HP @ 2700 RPM.
Tom Lawson
970-420-1798
Message 31
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Sean, check the governor mounting studs if you're using the Vans supplied MT
Governor. There are two lengths and C4B5 may have the shorter stud that will
need replacement to get enough "nut" on the studs for Safety.
Ears were good.
Mount clearance 3/8"
John 40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dogsbark@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2008 3:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: O-540 C4B5
Looks like I may have found a sweet deal on an engine for my 10. It is a
rebuilt Lycoming O-540 C4B5. Will add injection system.
After searching the archives it appears this is a good fit for the ten with
the following considerations:
1. Engine mounting ears are too large.
2. Oil filler neck options may be different than D4A5.
3. "the work of getting the baffles fit around the case is a fair bit more
on the C4B5 (in my experience) than the D4A5",
Jesse Saint.
4. No clearance between the pan and engine mount.
Can anyone elaborate on these points and/or other things to look for?
Your help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass class |
Geez, I thought we were supposed to use red kool-aid, so that's
what I used. Isn't that it?
Good catch...yep, whatever you do, DO NOT use automotive brake
fluid....use aircraft stuff. And, rather than start another long
debate about synthetic ATF vs. standard aircraft hydraulic vs. the
newer better stuff.....perhaps just dig around on the net for
that, because there really is no conclusive answer like
"you MUST use this...". For me, I have the standard aircraft
hydraulic fluid for now. Time will tell.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
eagerlee wrote:
> I'm sure Tim meant to say "aviation hydraulic fluid" rather than "Brake
> Fluid".
>
>
> I don't see it in the directions, but yes, fill a pump type oil can up
> with brake fluid, and put a hose between it and the bleeder.
>
> PH
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: HID Landing & Taxi Lights |
Any chance of seeing the photos of the light in the intakes?
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: tom.on.the.road@juno.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 3:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: HID Landing & Taxi Lights
Guys,
Remember I was investigating HID landing and taxi lights. I found
some at www.dirtlights.com. They are "2 X 4" ovals and they work
great in my intakes. Believe it or not, I have good CHTs with them
in there.
The owner of the business is a pilot and has been selling these into
the RV market for years. They come in 12V. and 24V. and all shapes
and sizes.
The good thing is they're bright, cool, well sealed and you can put
them in the wingroot, under the spinner, in the wings, or wherever.
I got one spot light for landing, and one flood light for taxi.
I'll send installed photos next week.
Tom Lawson
N-905ET (250 hours and loving it)
N-149ES (Still building)
970-420-1798
Message 34
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Lew:
Bending the stem may work - but be careful - the stem can easily break
at the bottom thread (so I have heard....) it makes a sickening hissing
sound. The new tube had a little more clearance - but not much..
Byron
Never finishing - N253RV assigned
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Height
Thanks, I think it will be close, but do-able.
I noticed on Tim's at this stage, he put diving belts on the engine
mount for counterweights -- which I didn't have, but I tie-strapped a 5
gallon jug on the engine mount and filled it with water until the weight
was right.
I seem to be digressing instead of starting new threads ... here's
another one: I've read about the tube stem being the wrong one for the
nose gear, and sure enough, it rubs. Can I just bend the stem slightly
to get clearance?
Message 35
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| Subject: | Chelton pricing/comparo |
Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three
seem to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me from
having to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting into a
technical debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I was
totally impressed with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR decision as a
VFR pilot left me at a severe disadvantage. I will start my IFR training
soon after first flight. Additionally I may someday move up to something
larger and it has a good chance having a G1000 anyway.
Photo hot off the presses.
Robin
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Chelton pricing/comparo |
nice panel!
Congratualtions on the choice!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Chelton pricing/comparo
Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three
seem to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me from
having to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting into a
technical debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I was
totally impressed with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR decision as a
VFR pilot left me at a severe disadvantage. I will start my IFR training
soon after first flight. Additionally I may someday move up to something
larger and it has a good chance having a G1000 anyway.
Photo hot off the presses.
Robin
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Chelton pricing/comparo |
Very nice! Thanks for sharing the picture. It seems like the folks with
the G900 are very silent. Please share when you get it flying!
I personally love the G1000 and I would seriously consider ponying up the
money for the G900 except for two concerns:
1) I wonder how much Garmin will support the experimental market in the
future. They have a nasty habit of charging mucho money for upgrades. If
they adopt the same support as say GRT it wouldn't be an issue. In my
opinion if you shell out that much $$ you should pretty much get free
software updates for the product life, ala GRT and Dynon.
2) No integrated GFC autopilot. In my opinion that is one of the best
features of the G1000. If they want me to fork over that much cash for an
experimental system, they need to step up to the plate and support that
feature as well.
In the end I just don't trust Garmin not to screw over the experimental
market, so I'll continue to sit on the sidelines. It's not like I don't
have the time. Hopefully they'll do right by us.
On Jan 29, 2008 6:09 PM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> Eric I was totally lost too so I decided to get the G900X. All three seem
> to be amazing systems however choosing the Garmin prevented me from having
> to make a radio decision. I have no interest in getting into a technical
> debate on which is better in what situation. (BTW I was totally impressed
> with GRT, Dynon for the $) Making an IFR decision as a VFR pilot left me at
> a severe disadvantage. I will start my IFR training soon after first flight.
> Additionally I may someday move up to something larger and it has a good
> chance having a G1000 anyway.
>
>
> Photo hot off the presses.
>
>
> Robin
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | FW: [LML] Crossbow 500 on Ebay |
For those RV-10 builders that will take the plunge on a Crossbow 500.
FYI
John Cox - 40600
________________________________
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
marv@lancair.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 5:11 PM
Subject: [LML] Crossbow 500 on Ebay
Harry League asked me to pass this along... the auction is for a
Crossbow 500 AHRS unit and is available at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320210018
7
14&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:MOTORS:1123
--
For archives and unsub
http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html
Message 39
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Just a thought Tim,
If your vent became blocked, and the pump pulled harder than your caps
allowed through, they could seal completely from vacuum pressure. Just a
thought.
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel vents
>
> Yeah, it's not much fuel, but a little. My caps are darn tight.
> It takes a lot of wiggling and work to get them out, and I
> have to pop the lever, which is also very stiff and let the
> cap relax a minute before pulling them out. The Orings are also
> not super elastic....but rather stiff. So it makes for a pretty
> hard to get off gas cap. I never tried lubricating it with
> fuel for reinsertion....insertion isn't usually the issue, but
> removal can be tough. I doubt I'm losing more than a fuel-tester
> full on a flight with real full tanks...but I do know that it's
> not so sealed tight that it will keep air out.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> zackrv8 wrote:
>>
>> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage out of
>> the caps on climbout with real full tanks. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD -
>> Flying do not archive
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can be
>> adjusted. It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened to a
>> happy compromise between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
>>
>> After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O ring
>> to lubricate it, especially in the winter. Makes it much easier to
>> install after that.
>>
>> Zack
>>
>> -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Chelton pricing/comparo |
I'm In ! (But I think Tim might balk at completing the 1-200 hours of
finishing I've still got ahead of me before flight).
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Do Not archive
Eric Ekberg wrote:
> I vote that Tim and Deems trade planes for a few flights and report
> back. In lurking on this list the only conclusion I've been able to
> come to is that I don't know enough to come to a conclusion on my own.
> *
>
> *
Message 41
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True...the suction alone might seal them up. I do like the idea of
the T in the vent line with a one-way valve, but also like the
idea of Dave's of a tiny pinhole on the back side of the vent.
It wouln't take much of a hole to keep it from icing up. For those
wanting to spend some cash, I guess you could also add a heating pad. ;)
I don't want to give the impression about the fuel caps that they're
all leaky. It's just that my levers are darn tight yet I still get some
fuel flowing back occasionally if my tanks are less than 1" from the top
of the cap when full. I haven't tried Jesse's suggestion yet of pushing
down while flipping the lever on the cap, so that should be something
for me to check out. The tough thing here is that when it's cold,
you have to give the o-ring time to relax and it takes a while when
you're trying to get the caps of. But, that's what I get for living
in the tundra. Tonight's wind chill will be -42F.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Just a thought Tim,
>
> If your vent became blocked, and the pump pulled harder than your caps
> allowed through, they could seal completely from vacuum pressure. Just
> a thought.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:01 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel vents
>
>
>>
>> Yeah, it's not much fuel, but a little. My caps are darn tight.
>> It takes a lot of wiggling and work to get them out, and I
>> have to pop the lever, which is also very stiff and let the
>> cap relax a minute before pulling them out. The Orings are also
>> not super elastic....but rather stiff. So it makes for a pretty
>> hard to get off gas cap. I never tried lubricating it with
>> fuel for reinsertion....insertion isn't usually the issue, but
>> removal can be tough. I doubt I'm losing more than a fuel-tester
>> full on a flight with real full tanks...but I do know that it's
>> not so sealed tight that it will keep air out.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> zackrv8 wrote:
>>>
>>> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage out of
>>> the caps on climbout with real full tanks. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD -
>>> Flying do not archive
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can be
>>> adjusted. It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened to a
>>> happy compromise between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
>>>
>>> After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O ring
>>> to lubricate it, especially in the winter. Makes it much easier to
>>> install after that.
>>>
>>> Zack
>>>
>>> -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Chelton pricing/comparo |
You know, it's probably not just me balking about having to do the
fiberglass work, but also you would probably not be too happy with
my substandard workmanship. ;) You've been doing a pretty darn
good job. (Of course, I would probably do such a poor job that
you'd be able to fly it in 20-30 hours)
But, when you're done, I'd be happy to jump in for a ride and let you
do likewise. It's always educational.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm In ! (But I think Tim might balk at completing the 1-200 hours of
> finishing I've still got ahead of me before flight).
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Do Not archive
>
> Eric Ekberg wrote:
>> I vote that Tim and Deems trade planes for a few flights and report
>> back. In lurking on this list the only conclusion I've been able to
>> come to is that I don't know enough to come to a conclusion on my own.
>> *
Message 43
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I checked with the PhD in mechanical engineering in the neighborhood
discussing vent tubing ID, fuel line ID and flow rates ; the size 40 hole in
the vent line in a protected area should not impact the ram air pressure
significantly and will provide enough pressure equalization if the external
vent ices. Its getting cold here also; Mesa Az will be 39F tonight.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel vents
True...the suction alone might seal them up. I do like the idea of the T in
the vent line with a one-way valve, but also like the idea of Dave's of a
tiny pinhole on the back side of the vent.
It wouln't take much of a hole to keep it from icing up. For those wanting
to spend some cash, I guess you could also add a heating pad. ;)
I don't want to give the impression about the fuel caps that all leaky.
It's just that my levers are darn tight yet I still get some fuel flowing
back occasionally if my tanks are less than 1" from the top of the cap when
full. I haven't tried Jesse's suggestion yet of pushing down while flipping
the lever on the cap, so that should be something for me to check out. The
tough thing here is that when it's cold, you have to give the o-ring time to
relax and it takes a while when you're trying to get the caps of. But,
that's what I get for living in the tundra. Tonight's wind chill will be
-42F.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Just a thought Tim,
>
> If your vent became blocked, and the pump pulled harder than your caps
> allowed through, they could seal completely from vacuum pressure.
> Just a thought.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:01 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel vents
>
>
>>
>> Yeah, it's not much fuel, but a little. My caps are darn tight.
>> It takes a lot of wiggling and work to get them out, and I have to
>> pop the lever, which is also very stiff and let the cap relax a
>> minute before pulling them out. The Orings are also not super
>> elastic....but rather stiff. So it makes for a pretty hard to get
>> off gas cap. I never tried lubricating it with fuel for
>> reinsertion....insertion isn't usually the issue, but removal can be
>> tough. I doubt I'm losing more than a fuel-tester full on a flight
>> with real full tanks...but I do know that it's not so sealed tight
>> that it will keep air out.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> zackrv8 wrote:
>>>
>>> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage out of
>>> the caps on climbout with real full tanks. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>> - Flying do not archive
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can
>>> be adjusted. It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened
>>> to a happy compromise between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
>>>
>>> After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O
>>> ring to lubricate it, especially in the winter. Makes it much
>>> easier to install after that.
>>>
>>> Zack
>>>
>>> -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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Thanks everyone for your input!
If this motor checks out, the other items you all mentioned seem do-able.
You've been a lot of help.
Sean Blair
#40225
http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb
do not archive
Message 45
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What is considered a protected area, inside the wing faring, or just behind the
vent line on the back side in the breeze?
Sam Marlow
#40157
---- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
============
I checked with the PhD in mechanical engineering in the neighborhood
discussing vent tubing ID, fuel line ID and flow rates ; the size 40 hole in
the vent line in a protected area should not impact the ram air pressure
significantly and will provide enough pressure equalization if the external
vent ices. Its getting cold here also; Mesa Az will be 39F tonight.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel vents
True...the suction alone might seal them up. I do like the idea of the T in
the vent line with a one-way valve, but also like the idea of Dave's of a
tiny pinhole on the back side of the vent.
It wouln't take much of a hole to keep it from icing up. For those wanting
to spend some cash, I guess you could also add a heating pad. ;)
I don't want to give the impression about the fuel caps that all leaky.
It's just that my levers are darn tight yet I still get some fuel flowing
back occasionally if my tanks are less than 1" from the top of the cap when
full. I haven't tried Jesse's suggestion yet of pushing down while flipping
the lever on the cap, so that should be something for me to check out. The
tough thing here is that when it's cold, you have to give the o-ring time to
relax and it takes a while when you're trying to get the caps of. But,
that's what I get for living in the tundra. Tonight's wind chill will be
-42F.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Just a thought Tim,
>
> If your vent became blocked, and the pump pulled harder than your caps
> allowed through, they could seal completely from vacuum pressure.
> Just a thought.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:01 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: fuel vents
>
>
>>
>> Yeah, it's not much fuel, but a little. My caps are darn tight.
>> It takes a lot of wiggling and work to get them out, and I have to
>> pop the lever, which is also very stiff and let the cap relax a
>> minute before pulling them out. The Orings are also not super
>> elastic....but rather stiff. So it makes for a pretty hard to get
>> off gas cap. I never tried lubricating it with fuel for
>> reinsertion....insertion isn't usually the issue, but removal can be
>> tough. I doubt I'm losing more than a fuel-tester full on a flight
>> with real full tanks...but I do know that it's not so sealed tight
>> that it will keep air out.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> zackrv8 wrote:
>>>
>>> Also, while the tank Orings are good, I do get fuel leakage out of
>>> the caps on climbout with real full tanks. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>> - Flying do not archive
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> That shouldn't happen. As you may already know, the fuel caps can
>>> be adjusted. It's a little tricky, but the O ring can be tightened
>>> to a happy compromise between lifting the lever and no fuel leakage.
>>>
>>> After refueling, I let the drips from the fuel nozzle onto the O
>>> ring to lubricate it, especially in the winter. Makes it much
>>> easier to install after that.
>>>
>>> Zack
>>>
>>> -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161058#161058
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
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