Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - fuel tank flush (David McNeill)
2. 06:39 AM - Re: Any Hawaii Builders?? (marcausman)
3. 06:57 AM - Tow Bar (Lew Gallagher)
4. 07:03 AM - Re: fuel tank flush (Carl Froehlich)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker (orchidman)
6. 07:58 AM - Re: Minimum Instruments ( was TruTrak ADI) (AirMike)
7. 08:08 AM - Re: Tow Bar (Marcus Cooper)
8. 11:08 AM - Re: Tow Bar (Lew Gallagher)
9. 11:44 AM - Re: fuel tank flush (Kelly McMullen)
10. 12:50 PM - Re: Re: Trimming the cowling (Rick Sked)
11. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: Tow Bar (Rick Sked)
12. 03:14 PM - Slick Mags (McGANN, Ron)
13. 05:19 PM - Old HID, New HID (tom.on.the.road@juno.com)
14. 07:55 PM - Re: Old HID, New HID (Pascal)
15. 08:28 PM - Re: Old HID, New HID (tom.on.the.road@juno.com)
16. 08:58 PM - Re: Old HID, New HID (Pascal)
17. 09:43 PM - Re: Slick Mags (John W. Cox)
18. 11:25 PM - Re: Trimming the cowling (Michael Wellenzohn)
Message 1
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I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the fuel
system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else flush
their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine? If so
with what?
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Any Hawaii Builders?? |
Pete,
I was just out there and visited a guy on Oahu building a -7A and another who is
flying a -6. Don't know of any -10s though. E-mail me at marc 'at' verticalpower.com
if you want me to send you their info. They're always glad to talk with
fellow RVers.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162170#162170
Message 3
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Here's another gizmo I cooked up yesterday. It works great so far -- no engine,
wings, tail feathers, so it's not a legitimate test to pass yet. But for $2
worth of metal at the scrap yard it seems pretty substantial.
I haven't seen anything like this, but it makes sense to me to make one ear static,
the other slides in, add tension to spring the yoke with your thumb while
sliding in the lynch pin (Home Depot).
You probably wouldn't want to try to take it with you, but it should do the job
in the hangar. Today I'll add paint.
By the way, any comments on why hydraulic fluid is better than brake fluid? Surfing,
it seems to be a flammable issue?
Working on wheel pants today.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162176#162176
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow1_medium_207.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow2_medium_143.jpg
Message 4
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One way is to install a temporary clear auto type fuel filter in a line
going from the firewall fuel fitting to gas cans, or via a temporary hose to
the other gas tank. If you are using an in line fuel filter, like the
Airflow Performance one Van's sells, this should be removed and replaced
with a straight piece of tubing so that you don't trap the trash in it. You
want all the trash to end up in temporary filter.
Fill one tank, sump the tank until you get a clear sample, and then use the
boost pump to pump the fuel into gas cans or the other tank via the auto
filter. This way you have clean gas to use over and over until you are
satisfied the trash is gone. If you see any particles while sumping the
tanks you are not yet done. You may want to agitate the gas in the tank by
rocking the wing to help dislodge particles and get them to the bottom of
the tank.
This is also the time to do a first check to make sure you have minimum fuel
flow rate (final check is after you reinstall the permanent inline filter)
and calibrate the fuel senders if you are using an electronic engine
indication system.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 7:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel tank flush
I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the fuel
system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else flush
their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine? If so
with what?
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Alternator Circuit Breaker |
jayb wrote:
> MIDI fuses available from Mouser.com
>
> 576-04980900Z Fuse Holder
> 576-0498080.M
> 80A Fuse
>
Another good source. I missed them since they are not in the current catalog.
That is a place to get lost in for sure. [Shocked]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162188#162188
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Minimum Instruments ( was TruTrak ADI) |
I voted to get an AFS3500 system but I am backing it up with:
1. Vertical card compass mounted on cabin to support bracket
2. B/U Steam air speed
3. B/U Steam altimeter
4. B/U Tru-Trak ADI
I would have preferred the Mid-continent - but cannot justify the cost.
Tru-Trak seems to have about 90% of the B/U market. It is almost rare to see a
panel being built without it.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162193#162193
Message 7
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Absolutely brilliant in it's simplicity. The bar most of us are using has
tension closing the bar and it takes a bit of caution when closing in on the
bolts not to accidentally hit the wheel pant and damage the paint. Your
idea takes the threat out completely.
As you said maybe not so good to travel with as it looks a bit heavy with
the materials you chose, but thanks for sharing the great idea.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tow Bar
Here's another gizmo I cooked up yesterday. It works great so far -- no
engine, wings, tail feathers, so it's not a legitimate test to pass yet.
But for $2 worth of metal at the scrap yard it seems pretty substantial.
I haven't seen anything like this, but it makes sense to me to make one ear
static, the other slides in, add tension to spring the yoke with your thumb
while sliding in the lynch pin (Home Depot).
You probably wouldn't want to try to take it with you, but it should do the
job in the hangar. Today I'll add paint.
By the way, any comments on why hydraulic fluid is better than brake fluid?
Surfing, it seems to be a flammable issue?
Working on wheel pants today.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162176#162176
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow1_medium_207.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow2_medium_143.jpg
Message 8
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Thanks, Marcus!
OK, just for the fun of it, I added a thumb rest. The paint is just rattle can
Rustoleum I was using up.
I don't know if it shows in the picture very well, but the inner shaft (1/2 ID,
1/8 wall steel tube) was just a little too loose in the sleeve for my liking,
so I flatted one side to make it more like a "D"(keeping the axel end round)
, and welded a bit of a matching flat on the female sleeve. That not only snugged
it up, but keeps the hole oriented for easy alignment with the pin.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162213#162213
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow4_medium_628.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow3_medium_678.jpg
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: fuel tank flush |
Recommend you use a fluid less volatile than gasoline for the process...like
water or stoddard solvent.
On Feb 3, 2008 7:57 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@cox.net> wrote:
> One way is to install a temporary clear auto type fuel filter in a line
> going from the firewall fuel fitting to gas cans, or via a temporary hose to
> the other gas tank. If you are using an in line fuel filter, like the
> Airflow Performance one Van's sells, this should be removed and replaced
> with a straight piece of tubing so that you don't trap the trash in it. You
> want all the trash to end up in temporary filter.
>
>
> Fill one tank, sump the tank until you get a clear sample, and then use
> the boost pump to pump the fuel into gas cans or the other tank via the auto
> filter. This way you have clean gas to use over and over until you are
> satisfied the trash is gone. If you see any particles while sumping the
> tanks you are not yet done. You may want to agitate the gas in the tank by
> rocking the wing to help dislodge particles and get them to the bottom of
> the tank.
>
>
> This is also the time to do a first check to make sure you have minimum
> fuel flow rate (final check is after you reinstall the permanent inline
> filter) and calibrate the fuel senders if you are using an electronic engine
> indication system.
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (400 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (wings)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David McNeill
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 03, 2008 7:41 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: fuel tank flush
>
>
> I have QB wings and am ready to flush the tanks and the remaider of the
> fuel system to remove any trash left behind by the builders. anyone else
> flush their wings before putting in the fuel sumps and running the engine?
> If so with what?
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Trimming the cowling |
I cut the top cowl in today...Guys and Gals I gotta tell you the masking tape to
mark the firewall cut is the BOMB!!!! Perfect fit with only a few passes with
the sanding block needed. The only thing I did different was to use the tape
as a guide to apply a fine pen line that I cut just shy of then hand sanded to
that line. I was worried the tape would gum up the cut off wheel. Dremel has
a new line of cut off wheels added to their line of products made just for plastic,
only metal was previously available. I use two wheels so far and that inclusdes
the slot in the bottom cowl, my slot is much long due to the three blade
prop...highly recommended these nifty cut off wheels.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 4:42:35 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trimming the cowling
Rick,
Like Michael I found it necessary to trim the inner and outer walls of the air
inlet to get the upper an lower portions to come together. I also trimmed about
2" along the side of the upper cowl. Once you have the upper and lower cowl
in position(let the sides of the lower cowl overlap the outside of the upper cowl)
you can decide where you want the side seams to be. Lay out your chosen line
on the upper cowl, cut and sand to a straight edge. Then you can use the masking
tape trick to transfer that line to the lower cowl. I failed to mention
in an earlier post that I also used the masking tape routine to fit my doors
to the cabin top. It is much easier than trimming a little at a time until it
comes together.
Don't worry if you take off a little too much at some point. It is easy to build
up an edge with a little flox if needed. Also I have seen several 10's where
the rivets that hold the piano hinge to the cowling(and/or the paint) have started
to crack out. I dealt with that by putting a 2 bid tape over the rivet lines.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161697#161697
Message 11
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Sorry Lew.....I just can't bring myself to make a rebar tow bar....besides...I
already bought a Bogart model...and hey!!! I didn't need that $80 anyhow. :)
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2008 11:03:02 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tow Bar
Thanks, Marcus!
OK, just for the fun of it, I added a thumb rest. The paint is just rattle can
Rustoleum I was using up.
I don't know if it shows in the picture very well, but the inner shaft (1/2 ID,
1/8 wall steel tube) was just a little too loose in the sleeve for my liking,
so I flatted one side to make it more like a "D"(keeping the axel end round)
, and welded a bit of a matching flat on the female sleeve. That not only snugged
it up, but keeps the hole oriented for easy alignment with the pin.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162213#162213
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow4_medium_628.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tow3_medium_678.jpg
Message 12
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Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540
supplied by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on
the mags is a PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
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sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 13
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Subject: | Old HID, New HID |
Big difference: better case, better airflow, easy to install.
www.dirtlights.com .
Tom
970-420-1798
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Old HID, New HID |
Tom;
Which one?
When you have a chance, please post pictures of the light(s) in the cowling.
Thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: <tom.on.the.road@juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 5:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
>
> Big difference: better case, better airflow, easy to install.
> www.dirtlights.com .
>
>
> Tom
> 970-420-1798
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Old HID, New HID |
Pascal,
I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
them to your email.
Tom
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Old HID, New HID |
received and appreciated!
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: <tom.on.the.road@juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
>
> Pascal,
>
> I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
> them to your email.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Which model do you want information on?
John Cox
600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540
supplied by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on
the mags is a PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Trimming the cowling |
Rick,
how long is the cut for the slot that you did. I also have a three blade prop and
I know I need to cut the slot longer. It works right now because the front
gear wheel sits on a box.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162282#162282
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