Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: magnetometer location (Russell Daves)
2. 03:57 AM - Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top (MauleDriver)
3. 04:18 AM - Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry (Phillips, Jack)
4. 04:55 AM - Re: magnetometer location (tomhanaway)
5. 05:18 AM - Re: overhead console (Jay Rowe)
6. 06:00 AM - Re: Ignition Switch Drawing (Sam Marlow)
7. 06:12 AM - Re: overhead console (raddatz)
8. 06:18 AM - Re: magnetometer location (Tim Olson)
9. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: magnetometer location (John Gonzalez)
10. 10:22 AM - Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry (Bill DeRouchey)
11. 02:53 PM - Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry (Lew Gallagher)
12. 04:44 PM - Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top (Patrick ONeill)
13. 05:50 PM - Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting (raddatz)
14. 05:55 PM - Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting (raddatz)
15. 06:22 PM - Re: Ignition Switch Drawing (Bill Schlatterer)
16. 09:34 PM - Re: Ignition Switch Drawing (John Dunne)
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| Subject: | Re: magnetometer location |
I would recommend that you put the magnetometer in the wingtip. Make a
90 degree bracket and rivet the bracket to the outboard rib. In stall
one pop rivet in either the front or back of the bracket so that you can
rotate the bracket on one end up or down to get the bracket leveled with
the in flight position of the wing. Check the bottom of the cabin door
with a level and then just level the bracket to the same bubble or
degree as the bottom of the cabin door and then put in the rest of the
mounting rivets and bolt on the magnetometer (non steel bolts).
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin |
top
Nice pics Patrick, Thanks.
I just started marking mine up and doing some preliminary measurements.
It looks like it will be real tight. That is, the door sill area on the
QB is 37" and the scribe lines are about 37 1/4". Cutting inside the
scribe lines looks like it starts taking away some of the flange
structure. Did you find it very tight and close like that?
On a second front, I ordered a Makita belt sander to help with the top
but it hasn't shipped yet. However, I started looking at the air
powered belt sanders from Yard and HarborF. Potentially a $150
saving.... has anyone used them? What are you using?
Doing this work outside sure looks attractive.
Bill "thinking about a HarboF run" Watson
Patrick ONeill wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I trimmed the cabin after returning home from Dave's class while it was
> still fresh in my mind. I didn't see any peel ply on my cabin top.
>
> I have a sequence of photos from the trimming if you would like to compare:
>
> http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=47&page=7
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry |
I'm glad to hear this. I had noticed the same thing and went through
the plans three times to make sure I hadn't screwed anything up. With
the elevators tied together it shouldn't matter if it's asymmetrical,
but it just looked a little odd.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Still waiting for the Wing Kit to arrive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric
geometry
That is how it is supposed to be. It should end up so when the right
hits the neutral position the left should as well, then the left will
more or less stay there and the right will continue. When light you
need a lot of nose-up trim, but Van's didn't want (I assume) to give
as much possibility for nose-down trim in the case of runaway trim.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2008, at 6:44 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I just installed the trim servo and am playing with the trim setup.
> The cable geometry dictates that the tabs will not move together.
> The right hand elevator moves through a much greater arc than the
> left. A fact that is probably less noticeable with the rudder in
> place.
> However, when I adjust the clevises and the Rivethead bracket to get
> 35 degrees of deflection at the full up trim position, I find that I
> am at the maximum physical deflection of the tab itself (not a
> problem, just an acceptable coincidence).
> More noteworthy, I find that with both the left and right hand
> elevator tabs adjusted to 35 degrees full up at one end of the
> servo's travel, going to the full down trim position results in the
> right elevator tab moving to a roughly 20 degree deflection while
> the left elevator tab is at zero deflection. In fact, the last few
> mm of servo movement result in the left tab deflecting very slightly
> in the opposite direction.
>
> None of this is inconsistent with the asymmetric geometry of the
> whole setup but just want some warm fuzzies that others are
> experienced something similar. (If this is in the archives, I just
> can't find it).
>
> Bill "there's a good bit of trim drag in here somewhere" Watson
> 40605
>
>
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify
the sender
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk
- Portuguese
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| Subject: | Re: magnetometer location |
Russ,
Have you had any issues with proximity of wingtip strobes to magnetometer in this
installation?
Thanks,
tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162970#162970
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: overhead console |
Hey Dave: Jay Rowe from Maine would like one of those overhead
consoles. By the way I just finished "welding" the lower gear strut
fairings to the wheel pants----you were so right, it took a long long
time to get it right. In retrospect I should have followed your advice
and not have gone to all that work. But since I am still waiting for my
panel from AA I did have the time. Do you want to bill me for the
console or should I pop a check in the mail? 151 North Shore Lane,
Winthrop, ME 04364, 207 322-6167
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Saylor
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 12:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: overhead console
Hi Chris,
We are producing a small fiberglass overhead console especially for
the 10. We made the mold from the top of my plane after the strut was
in place, so it fits very nicely around the top of the bar.
I wanted something fairly compact to maintain as much headroom as
possible. It weighs 2.4 ounces and is 1 1/2 inches deep. I attached
mine with flathead sheet metal screws directly into the ceiling.
I have two of Stein's LEDs in mine. I ran the wires up the strut.
There's plenty of room for another dome light and a couple switches, and
it's deep enough to put a 90 degree coax connector inside if you want a
GPS antenna on top.
It also fits nicely on the baggage area ceiling, although I haven't
worked out an attachment method. The honeycomb core wouldn't take a
screw too well so a little beefing up would be in order.
I've been meaning to get these and a few other products on the web
site but your post seemed like a good time to jump in.
Here are a few pictures. I have several in stock. $150 each plus
shipping. Any questions please call.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 6:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: overhead console
Has anyone come up with a less expensive version of the Accuracy
Avionics overhead console. I can't see spending $1300 for a piece of
plastic, but I would like a basic console similar to the forward half of
the AA console. I like the idea of overhead reading lights, and a place
to mount antennas, and hide wires, and the hinge cover feature is nice.
I don't need the air vents, or anything aft of the front seats. I could
of course built one myself, but being lazy, and adverse to any more
fiberglass work than is necessary, I thought I would query the list for
possible sources or at least ideas?
In order to solicit more replies to this question, I would also like
to ask people what kind of primer should I use on it?
Chris Hukill
stirring the pot
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
2/6/2008 9:13 AM
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch Drawing |
That notch keep the switch from rotating during normal use, very
important for a mag switch.
Sam
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> "cutout" ? No CAD drawing but it's a .860 plus or minus call it a
> 7/8 round hole unless I'm missing something. It does have an internal
> key slot but I think that's more for the trim ring position than
> anything else.
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 07, 2008 12:12 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Ignition Switch Drawing
>
> Does anybody have a CAD drawing of the cutout for the standard ACS
> Ignition/Mag/Start keyswitch?
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: overhead console |
Here's the biggest profit part to date.
The first one I ordered from Accuracy Avionics was $1800 with DVD, vents, clothes
hook in baggage area also cabin lights and baggage dome light all wired. Overpriced
didn't fit well at all, needed a lot of mod. to work but end result was
beautiful.
Second one I ordered was $1100 with no DVD but everything else was the same to
include the bad fit even after pictures and feedback.
Third one I ordered was $1350 also with no DVD and it would only be $250 more from
the last one I ordered if I would wire the lighting to save it from being
even more. What I received was not only not wired like we discussed but there
was no clothes hanging bar, access panel not fit or mounted and the same horrible
fit over all.
One of the 10's I have in the shop has the overhead from flightline A/C and that
might work I'm going to see how well that fits the tub today and maybe I have
a replacement. I want to keep installing these overheads due to the fact that
I install two naca vents in the back and force fresh air into the overhead
and that really works great. and the 10 needs some cooling.
Steve Raddatz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162983#162983
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: magnetometer location |
I'd agree with Russ. There are a couple good locations for
magnetometers, and I'd recommend those instead of in the cabin.
A good magnetometer is very sensitive, and it wouldn't take
much in the way of portable electronic gadgets, and
passenger wearables to throw some nasty heading effects into
the equation. Even more important than using non-magnetic
screws, and things like that, is that you want it to be a
fairly magnetically constant area, where there aren't lots of
variables happening, because the constants you can somewhat
calibrate for. The variability brought into the equation
by passengers and cabin items would be almost impossible
to predict.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Russell Daves wrote:
> I would recommend that you put the magnetometer in the wingtip. Make a
> 90 degree bracket and rivet the bracket to the outboard rib. In stall
> one pop rivet in either the front or back of the bracket so that you can
> rotate the bracket on one end up or down to get the bracket leveled with
> the in flight position of the wing. Check the bottom of the cabin door
> with a level and then just level the bracket to the same bubble or
> degree as the bottom of the cabin door and then put in the rest of the
> mounting rivets and bolt on the magnetometer (non steel bolts).
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV - 190+ hours
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: magnetometer location |
I've never seen the inside of magnetometer, but is the the fact that there
might be a lot of vibration at the end of the wing any concern for longevit
y of the unit. Should it be mounted on foam pads?
JOhn 409> Subject: RV10-List: Re: magnetometer location> From: tomhanaway@c
omcast.net> Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 04:51:04 -0800> To: rv10-list@matronics.c
>> > Russ,> Have you had any issues with proximity of wingtip strobes to ma
gnetometer in this installation?> Thanks,> tom> > > > > Read this topic onl
ine here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162970#162970> >
-========================
==> > >
Message 10
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| Subject: | Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry |
It will matter when you are cruising with a load and need down trim and one elevator
trim is slightly down and the other is slightly up. Suggest you search on
my old post entitied "twisted tail".
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com> wrote:
I'm glad to hear this. I had noticed the same thing and went through
the plans three times to make sure I hadn't screwed anything up. With
the elevators tied together it shouldn't matter if it's asymmetrical,
but it just looked a little odd.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Still waiting for the Wing Kit to arrive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric
geometry
That is how it is supposed to be. It should end up so when the right
hits the neutral position the left should as well, then the left will
more or less stay there and the right will continue. When light you
need a lot of nose-up trim, but Van's didn't want (I assume) to give
as much possibility for nose-down trim in the case of runaway trim.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2008, at 6:44 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I just installed the trim servo and am playing with the trim setup.
> The cable geometry dictates that the tabs will not move together.
> The right hand elevator moves through a much greater arc than the
> left. A fact that is probably less noticeable with the rudder in
> place.
> However, when I adjust the clevises and the Rivethead bracket to get
> 35 degrees of deflection at the full up trim position, I find that I
> am at the maximum physical deflection of the tab itself (not a
> problem, just an acceptable coincidence).
> More noteworthy, I find that with both the left and right hand
> elevator tabs adjusted to 35 degrees full up at one end of the
> servo's travel, going to the full down trim position results in the
> right elevator tab moving to a roughly 20 degree deflection while
> the left elevator tab is at zero deflection. In fact, the last few
> mm of servo movement result in the left tab deflecting very slightly
> in the opposite direction.
>
> None of this is inconsistent with the asymmetric geometry of the
> whole setup but just want some warm fuzzies that others are
> experienced something similar. (If this is in the archives, I just
> can't find it).
>
> Bill "there's a good bit of trim drag in here somewhere" Watson
> 40605
>
>
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify
the sender
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk
- Portuguese
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry |
Thanks for the re-post, Bill. ( http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t 576&highlight=twisted+tail ) This has been bugging the fool out of me ever since we finished that section and hooked up temporary 12 v. to it. Since I don't fly, I just accepted what Van's and others said ... "It's supposed to be that way", but it sure looked weird.
I can't wait to try your adjustment to see how that looks. It sure seems like
looking at it in flight is the real test.
Later, - Lew
do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163062#163062
Message 12
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| Subject: | Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin |
top
On mine, the scribe lines were very unreliable. The scribes on the cabin
bottom flange under the rear windows varied from 1 1/8" to 7/8" (plans
specify 3/4")and were extremely wavy with dual scribe lines overlapping and
crossing when they started over. I re-marked according to dimensions in the
plans.
I did not finish the fitting yet, but the initial cuts were definitely too
large to fit. The door jams weren't anywhere close to fitting to the
fuselage. I've been waiting until I had enough time to carefully work on the
fit.
As for that magic mini Makita belt sander (
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9031 ), when I got home
from the Watsonville class I searched all the local places for one, but no
one carried it. I ended up using a standard electric hand held Makita 3x18
belt sander which I already had:
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9910 (have lots of belts,
they go quick, I found the more expensive blue belts last much much longer
than the standard brown ones and would recommend them)
That worked great. To get clean corners I used the die grinder sanding drum
kit from Avery:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-924-80-3m-rubber-expanding-sanding-drums-and-ba
nds-kit.aspx
For the actual cutting I used this saw from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91753
It worked great aside from running through blades quickly. I ran out but
was able to find a blade pack at a local home depot that worked and was able
to soldier on to completion:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098704
That combination of tools worked perfectly for me. I'm glad I didn't spend
the $250 on that mini-Makita.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 3:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the
cabin top
Nice pics Patrick, Thanks.
I just started marking mine up and doing some preliminary measurements.
It looks like it will be real tight. That is, the door sill area on the
QB is 37" and the scribe lines are about 37 1/4". Cutting inside the
scribe lines looks like it starts taking away some of the flange
structure. Did you find it very tight and close like that?
On a second front, I ordered a Makita belt sander to help with the top
but it hasn't shipped yet. However, I started looking at the air
powered belt sanders from Yard and HarborF. Potentially a $150
saving.... has anyone used them? What are you using?
Doing this work outside sure looks attractive.
Bill "thinking about a HarboF run" Watson
Patrick ONeill wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I trimmed the cabin after returning home from Dave's class while it was
> still fresh in my mind. I didn't see any peel ply on my cabin top.
>
> I have a sequence of photos from the trimming if you would like to
compare:
>
> http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=47&page=7
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting |
Michael,
I have installed two AA overheads that where after the fact deals, Cut off the
front of it where it dips and also cut off the entire back lip which is to long
anyway and when your all done with the install you will use the Vans wing root
seal or on the 10 its the same seal that goes under the Hor. stab. Now where
the drop down is from going from the front cabin to back cut out a big relief
so we can pull the back overhead up to the cabin. once you have a fit, drill
through the overhead and into the first layer of cabin tub right up front just
off the rollbar with a #40 drillbit and cleco it up there then go to the back
cabin right after the hump and drill and put cleco's about every 8 inches right
to the back bulkhead remember to only drill through the first layer, believe
me you will know when that happens. Also you will not need any cleco's after
the front two in the front cabin because you will be using spring clamps down
along the door frame. Now If everything looks good take a marker and trace
the outline of your overhead on the cabin take out the overhead and sand everything
so the epoxy will bind thats why you put the mark on the overhead so you
would know where to sand. Now get in you truck and run to the local tractor
supply and buy a large horse syringe of coarse with no needle and go buy some
epoxy and cab-o-sil mix up a batch and make it thick put it in the syringe and
spread it around the overhead now cleco and clamp it up also remember to spread
some drop clothes in the plane for drips. any problems call me at 256-443-1915
Steve Raddatz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163080#163080
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: AA Overhead console retrofitting |
I forgot when everything dries you can glass in the relief you cut between the
front and back cabin and you can finish the edge how you want, we use a single
layer of 2 inch glass tape and Z glass the blend after.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163087#163087
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| Subject: | Ignition Switch Drawing |
OK, Sam,...I give ;-) And I'm sure this is beginner stuff but are you
saying that the hole in the panel should match the hole in the trim ring
with the internal tooth? See picture. If so, how do you drill a round
hole in the panel leaving an internal "tooth" to fit the slot on the barrel
of the switch? The barrel is like a big toggle switch but without the
key/tab washer to keep it from turning.
The internal tooth on the trim ring positions the trim ring to the switch
positions but I have no idea how you would make a similar hole in the panel
to mount it in without a lot of work or a CNC machine. With the bezel nut
reasonably tight, mine won't turn but then it's not flying/vibrating yet
either.
BTW, there was no lock washer or locking tab with my switch that I
remember? If I'm missing something here, I need to fix it!
Thanks Bill S
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ignition Switch Drawing
That notch keep the switch from rotating during normal use, very important
for a mag switch.
Sam
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
"cutout" ? No CAD drawing but it's a .860 plus or minus call it a 7/8
round hole unless I'm missing something. It does have an internal key slot
but I think that's more for the trim ring position than anything else.
Bill S
7a Ark
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 12:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ignition Switch Drawing
Does anybody have a CAD drawing of the cutout for the standard ACS
Ignition/Mag/Start keyswitch?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch Drawing |
Bill, trace the inside of the key switch plate onto your panel. You need
to make a hole "smaller" than the final cutout. The tooth is created
manually by filing/cutting/whatever method you choose. It can take a lot
of time and is finicky but use a step drill to cutout the major portion
up to the internal diameter of the tooth. Create the tooth or "tab" by
enlarging the hole with careful filing either side of your tab outline
that you drew onto the panel. It doesn't have to be a masterpiece, as
the hole is neatly tidied up and covered by the switch plate.
The switch should come with a switch plate, a hexagonal rear locking nut
and a screw down circular face at the front.
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Schlatterer
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ignition Switch Drawing
OK, Sam,...I give ;-) And I'm sure this is beginner stuff but are
you saying that the hole in the panel should match the hole in the trim
ring with the internal tooth? See picture. If so, how do you drill a
round hole in the panel leaving an internal "tooth" to fit the slot on
the barrel of the switch? The barrel is like a big toggle switch but
without the key/tab washer to keep it from turning.
The internal tooth on the trim ring positions the trim ring to the
switch positions but I have no idea how you would make a similar hole in
the panel to mount it in without a lot of work or a CNC machine. With
the bezel nut reasonably tight, mine won't turn but then it's not
flying/vibrating yet either.
BTW, there was no lock washer or locking tab with my switch that I
remember? If I'm missing something here, I need to fix it!
Thanks Bill S
Do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 7:42 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ignition Switch Drawing
That notch keep the switch from rotating during normal use, very
important for a mag switch.
Sam
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
"cutout" ? No CAD drawing but it's a .860 plus or minus call it a
7/8 round hole unless I'm missing something. It does have an internal
key slot but I think that's more for the trim ring position than
anything else.
Bill S
7a Ark
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 12:12 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Ignition Switch Drawing
Does anybody have a CAD drawing of the cutout for the standard ACS
Ignition/Mag/Start keyswitch?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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