Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:11 AM - Re: Torque Wrenches (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 04:43 AM - Re: Re: Torque Wrenches (linn Walters)
3. 05:05 AM - Re: Torque Wrenches (Michael Wellenzohn)
4. 05:07 AM - Re: O-540 C4B5 (61brv10)
5. 08:52 AM - Re: Re: Torque Wrenches (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
6. 10:56 AM - V Speeds (gary)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: Torque Wrenches (Rick Sked)
8. 12:20 PM - Dimmers (orchidman)
9. 12:26 PM - Torque wrenches (Fred Williams, M.D.)
10. 12:27 PM - Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures (Ed Godfrey)
11. 12:50 PM - Re: Re: Torque Wrenches (David McNeill)
12. 12:57 PM - elevator weldment (David McNeill)
13. 01:12 PM - Re: V Speeds (Pascal)
14. 01:14 PM - Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures (Bob Leffler)
15. 01:24 PM - Re: V Speeds (Randy Lervold)
16. 01:56 PM - Re: V Speeds (Chris and Susie McGough)
17. 03:01 PM - Re: Dimmers (linn Walters)
18. 03:14 PM - Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry (John Ackerman)
19. 03:26 PM - Re: V Speeds (Pascal)
20. 03:26 PM - Re: V Speeds (Tim Olson)
21. 03:41 PM - Re: Torque wrenches (Rick Sked)
22. 03:43 PM - Re: V Speeds (Rick Sked)
23. 03:46 PM - Re: Re: Torque Wrenches (Rick Sked)
24. 03:48 PM - Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry (Rick Sked)
25. 03:57 PM - Re: V Speeds (Chris and Susie McGough)
26. 04:03 PM - Re: Dimmers (orchidman)
27. 04:03 PM - Intersection Fairings (Patrick Pulis)
28. 04:10 PM - Re: V Speeds (Jesse Saint)
29. 04:21 PM - Re: Intersection Fairings (Patrick Pulis)
30. 04:23 PM - Re: Intersection Fairings (lessdragprod@aol.com)
31. 04:26 PM - Re: V Speeds (Randy Lervold)
32. 05:01 PM - Re: V Speeds (gary)
33. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Dimmers (linn Walters)
34. 06:22 PM - Flymire heated pitot (David McNeill)
35. 06:39 PM - Re: Dimmers (Tim Lewis)
36. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: Dimmers (Tim Olson)
37. 06:45 PM - Parking Brake Question (Les Kearney)
38. 06:47 PM - Re: V Speeds (Tim Olson)
39. 06:51 PM - Mounting the tail feathers (William Britton)
40. 07:24 PM - Re: Parking Brake Question (Deems Davis)
41. 07:27 PM - Re: Dimmers (orchidman)
42. 07:56 PM - Re: Mounting the tail feathers (Lew Gallagher)
43. 07:56 PM - Re: V Speeds (Chris and Susie McGough)
44. 08:09 PM - Re: Parking Brake Question (Les Kearney)
45. 08:19 PM - Re: V Speeds (Chris and Susie McGough)
46. 09:17 PM - Re: Parking Brake Question (Gerry Filby)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
Hi,
I saw somewhere in the forum quite some time ago pictures of jaw wrenches or extensions
for a torque wrench. Does anyone know where to order these.
I Have some nuts that can't be reaches with the torque wrench nut.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163269#163269
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
Hmmm. Might you be talking about 'crows foot' wrenches???? Little
wrench ends with a hole for a 1/4 or 3/8 drive???
For our needs, a set from Harbor Freight will do just fine. Sears has
them, and I'd look in Ace too.
Linn
do not archive
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I saw somewhere in the forum quite some time ago pictures of jaw wrenches or
extensions for a torque wrench. Does anyone know where to order these.
>
>I Have some nuts that can't be reaches with the torque wrench nut.
>
>Michael
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163269#163269
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they also ship
to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
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Where can the mount ears be found? Thanks in advance.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163277#163277
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might
save you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench)
-Jim
In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they
also ship to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
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Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
Thanks
Gary
40274
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
That may solve your problem Michael, especially if you looking to torque yo
ur prop...a crowsfoot would not allow me to tighten my prop nuts, I borrowe
d a Snap-on torq wrench=C2-with an open end adapter made just for that fr
om a local A & P....it cost him $400!!!!. But as always, the right tool for
the right job does wonders....Jim's idea is pretty trick.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:46:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches
You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might sa
ve you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench
-Jim
In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well
enzohn.net writes:
>
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al
so ship to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well
enzohn.net writes:
>
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al
so ship to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. _
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====
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I can't find that much on this subject via 'Search' so I am asking the experts
[Laughing]
I am at the point of identifying what type of dimmer(s) I am going to go with.
Van's has a single channel for $20 and a 4 channel for $115. The catalog lists
the 4 channel as a Pulse Width Modulation which sounds good but in the archives
here there is one comment about a PWM unit having problems with a 430W.
Paul says that they have a dual channel unit for $75 and it sounds like it is
a voltage regulation type.
Price wise the Van's single unit is the cheapest available but it doesn't say anything
about if it is a PWM or a standard type voltage regulation unit.
My questions are, which method of control is better, voltage regulation or PWM,
and how many circuits are people usually going with?
I will have a dual AFS system, 430W, SL40, 327, PM8000B, TT ADI and other rather
standard cockpit lights.
Thoughts please.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163325#163325
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Michael
I want to echo Rick and Mr. McGrew. I have a set of the crows foot
wrenches and have yet to be able to use them to torque _any_ of the hard
to reach places. I made up an open end wrench and used them. The
calculator really helps.
Rick:
I'm getting to the point of doing the doors. I saw your comments on the
vansairforce site. Is the set of recessed handles on ebay the ones that
are compatible with a lock? I wasn't real clear on that point.
Also, when my friend broke his wheel pants on his RV 10, I had my dad
make up two sets of the beefed up extensions and I now have an extra
set. I already have a pair installed. Does anyone want them for
$60??
Fred Williams
903 491 5207 cell
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures |
Dave,
I would be interested in the pictures.
Ed Godfrey
40717
Dsyvert@aol.com wrote:
> I have pictures so if anyone would like me to email, just email me. It
> may take a couple emails because it is about 5 meg.
>
> Dave Syvertson
> dsyvert@aol.com <mailto:dsyvert@aol.com>
>
> do no archieve
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL
> Music.
> <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300000002548>
> *
>
>
> *
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
You an make the tool for about $20 to torque the prop. Buy a good quality
open ended wrench, 3/4" IIRC. heat and create an S with the wrench. Then
weld a short 3/8" socket adapter on the center of the wrench. Torque wrench
is inserted into the adapter and open end wrench goes tot he prop nut.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches
That may solve your problem Michael, especially if you looking to torque
your prop...a crowsfoot would not allow me to tighten my prop nuts, I
borrowed a Snap-on torq wrench with an open end adapter made just for that
from a local A & P....it cost him $400!!!!. But as always, the right tool
for the right job does wonders....Jim's idea is pretty trick.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:46:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches
You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might
save you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench>
&highlight=wrench
-Jim
In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rv-10@wellenzohn.net writes:
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they
also ship to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
_____
Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL
<http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000
0002548> Music.
D========================
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=========
D========================
=========
D========================
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| Subject: | elevator weldment |
Check your elevator weldments. While doing the final attachment of the
elevator weldment, a small crack was found where the end that attaches the
main elevator pushrod is bent to form flanges to give it strength. It was
obviously created when the weldment was bent during fabrication. A bit of
sanding and polishing eliminated a problem in a critical part.
Message 13
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Keep in mind that you as the builder may have different speeds than this
generic one.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>
> Thanks
> Gary
> 40274
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures |
I just posted mine on my company's ftp site. Email me and I'll forward an
userid and password.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircrafter's Seminar Pictures
I have pictures so if anyone would like me to email, just email me. It may
take a couple emails because it is about 5 meg.
Dave Syvertson
dsyvert@aol.com
do no archieve
_____
Who's never won? Biggest
<http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000
0002548> Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
Message 15
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All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all
about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has
its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a
problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers from
someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the rules but
it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly safely.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, sold
RV-3B www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>
> Thanks
> Gary
> 40274
Message 16
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Randy I am confused here I thought the V speeds would be calculated by the
engineer who designs the aircraft . I am probably missing your point.
regards Chris 388
Wings painted and glowing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all
> about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has
> its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a
> problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers
> from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the
> rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly
> safely.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, sold
> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Gary
>> 40274
>
>
>
Message 17
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I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it.
Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf
Linn
orchidman wrote:
>
>I can't find that much on this subject via 'Search' so I am asking the experts
[Laughing]
>I am at the point of identifying what type of dimmer(s) I am going to go with.
Van's has a single channel for $20 and a 4 channel for $115. The catalog lists
the 4 channel as a Pulse Width Modulation which sounds good but in the archives
here there is one comment about a PWM unit having problems with a 430W.
Paul says that they have a dual channel unit for $75 and it sounds like it is
a voltage regulation type.
>
>Price wise the Van's single unit is the cheapest available but it doesn't say
anything about if it is a PWM or a standard type voltage regulation unit.
>
>My questions are, which method of control is better, voltage regulation or PWM,
and how many circuits are people usually going with?
>
>I will have a dual AFS system, 430W, SL40, 327, PM8000B, TT ADI and other rather
standard cockpit lights.
>
>Thoughts please.
>
>--------
>Gary Blankenbiller
>RV10 - # 40674
>Fuselage SB
>(N410GB reserved)
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163325#163325
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry |
Bill, my search finds nothing in the RV10 archives for "twisted tail"..
The twisting moment doesn't depend on one elevator up, one down; just
the difference in lift they're generating. Likewise with the drag
resulting from differing angles of attack.
Is there reason to believe it's a big deal?
John Ackerman 40458 do not archive
On Feb 8, 2008, at 10:45 AM, Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> It will matter when you are cruising with a load and need down trim
> and one elevator trim is slightly down and the other is slightly
> up. Suggest you search on my old post entitied "twisted tail".
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> N939SB
>
> "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com> wrote:
>
> I'm glad to hear this. I had noticed the same thing and went through
> the plans three times to make sure I hadn't screwed anything up. With
> the elevators tied together it shouldn't matter if it's asymmetrical,
> but it just looked a little odd.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Still waiting for the Wing Kit to arrive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 7:48 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric
> geometry
>
>
> That is how it is supposed to be. It should end up so when the right
> hits the neutral position the left should as well, then the left will
> more or less stay there and the right will continue. When light you
> need a lot of nose-up trim, but Van's didn't want (I assume) to give
> as much possibility for nose-down trim in the case of runaway trim.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Feb 7, 2008, at 6:44 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> >
> > I just installed the trim servo and am playing with the trim setup.
> > The cable geometry dictates that the tabs will not move together.
> > The right hand elevator moves through a much greater arc than the
> > left. A fact that is probably less noticeable with the rudder in
> > place.
> > However, when I adjust the clevises and the Rivethead bracket to get
> > 35 degrees of deflection at the full up trim position, I find that I
> > am at the maximum physical deflection of the tab itself (not a
> > problem, just an acceptable coincidence).
> > More noteworthy, I find that with both the left and right hand
> > elevator tabs adjusted to 35 degrees full up at one end of the
> > servo's travel, going to the full down trim position results in the
> > right elevator tab moving to a roughly 20 degree deflection while
> > the left elevator tab is at zero deflection. In fact, the
>
>
Message 19
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My thoughts, for what they are worth is that each plane will be the same
basically but different uniquely. So the speeds are a good start for the
Phase 1 testing but one needs to confirm if the speeds are accurate for the
uniquely built plane. As much as we are all building the RV-10 mine will be
faster than the majority due to the lack of instruments and paint and holy
cow cowling with the 5 blade carbon and titanium blade... my point is weight
will play a factor in speeds as will the aerodynamic perfection of bondo..
just my thoughts..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Randy I am confused here I thought the V speeds would be calculated by
> the engineer who designs the aircraft . I am probably missing your point.
>
> regards Chris 388
> Wings painted and glowing
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:19 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
>>
>> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is
>> all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static
>> system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is
>> actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just
>> take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only
>> against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test
>> appropriately and fly safely.
>>
>> Randy Lervold
>> RV-8, sold
>> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
>>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Gary
>>> 40274
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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I'm right with you there, Randy. That's why when people grab my
POH, I tell them this is just a base document that they need to
test for themselves, and won't necessarily fit their needs.
So, for some rough numbers, check the POH's, but for the real deal,
there's nothing like flying to find out.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is
> all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static
> system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is
> actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just
> take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only
> against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test
> appropriately and fly safely.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, sold
> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Gary
>> 40274
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Torque wrenches |
Fred,
Yes the ones FS on Vansairforce/E-Bay are the ones with the built in lock...make
sure you get the cylinders with them, his picture shows them removed.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:19:04 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Torque wrenches
Michael
I want to echo Rick and Mr. McGrew. I have a set of the crows foot
wrenches and have yet to be able to use them to torque _any_ of the hard
to reach places. I made up an open end wrench and used them. The
calculator really helps.
Rick:
I'm getting to the point of doing the doors. I saw your comments on the
vansairforce site. Is the set of recessed handles on ebay the ones that
are compatible with a lock? I wasn't real clear on that point.
Also, when my friend broke his wheel pants on his RV 10, I had my dad
make up two sets of the beefed up extensions and I now have an extra
set. I already have a pair installed. Does anyone want them for
$60??
Fred Williams
903 491 5207 cell
Message 22
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Well put Randy....But knowing Gary he is just looking for a starting point,not
skirting the intent of phase I.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:19:43 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all
about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has
its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a
problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers from
someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the rules but
it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly safely.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, sold
RV-3B www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>
> Thanks
> Gary
> 40274
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrenches |
Also, The web RV guru on the -7 side of=C2-world (and one of the best sit
es for=C2-all RV's)=C2-Dan Checkoway shows how to fabricate on that wil
l work as well....search Dan's site. His idea is neat too..
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:44:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches
You an make the tool for about $20 to torque the prop. Buy a good quality o
pen ended wrench, 3/4" IIRC. heat and create an S with the wrench. Then wel
d a short 3/8" socket adapter on the center of the wrench. Torque wrench is
inserted into the adapter and open end wrench goes tot he prop nut.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches
That may solve your problem Michael, especially if you looking to torque yo
ur prop...a crowsfoot would not allow me to tighten my prop nuts, I borrowe
d a Snap-on torq wrench=C2-with an open end adapter made just for that fr
om a local A & P....it cost him $400!!!!. But as always, the right tool for
the right job does wonders....Jim's idea is pretty trick.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:46:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Torque Wrenches
You might just try putting a bolt through one end of an endwrench. Might sa
ve you some time waiting for delivery in Europe. Here's picture:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7379&highlight=wrench
-Jim
In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well
enzohn.net writes:
>
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al
so ship to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
In a message dated 2/10/2008 8:07:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-10@well
enzohn.net writes:
>
Yes "crow foot" wrench is the word, thanks. I'll try to find out if they al
so ship to Europe.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163276#163276
Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. 3
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href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3
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href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com
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================
====
=======================
==
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometry |
I had some twisted tail once....oh...never mind...=C2- :)
Risk Sked
40185
PLEASE do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 3:09:40 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric geometr
y
Bill, my search finds nothing in the RV10 archives for "twisted tail"..
The twisting moment doesn't depend on one elevator up, one down; just the d
ifference in lift they're generating. Likewise with the drag=C2-resulting
from differing angles of attack.
Is there reason to believe it's a big deal?
John Ackerman =C2-40458 do not archive
On Feb 8, 2008, at 10:45 AM, Bill DeRouchey wrote:
It will matter when you are cruising with a load and need=C2-down trim an
d=C2-one elevator trim is slightly down and the other is slightly up. Sug
gest you search on my old post entitied "twisted tail".
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB
"Phillips, Jack" < Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com > wrote:
I'm glad to hear this. I had noticed the same thing and went through
the plans three times to make sure I hadn't screwed anything up. With
the elevators tied together it shouldn't matter if it's asymmetrical,
but it just looked a little odd.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Still waiting for the Wing Kit to arrive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[ mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator trim - 35 degree up and asymmetric
geometry
That is how it is supposed to be. It should end up so when the right
hits the neutral position the left should as well, then the left will
more or less stay there and the right will continue. When light you
need a lot of nose-up trim, but Van's didn't want (I assume) to give
as much possibility for nose-down trim in the case of runaway trim.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 7, 2008, at 6:44 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I just installed the trim servo and am playing with the trim setup.
> The cable geometry dictates that the tabs will not move together.
> The right hand elevator moves through a much greater arc than the
> left. A fact that is probably less noticeable with the rudder in
> place.
> However, when I adjust the clevises and the Rivethead bracket to get
> 35 degrees of deflection at the full up trim position, I find that I
> am at the maximum physical deflection of the tab itself (not a
> problem, just an acceptable coincidence).
> More noteworthy, I find that with both the left and right hand
> elevator tabs adjusted to 35 degrees full up at one end of the
> servo's travel, going to the full down trim position results in the
> right elevator tab moving to a roughly 20 degree deflection while
> the left elevator tab is at zero deflection. In fact, the href="http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution
====
=======================
==
Message 25
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I get it now we are talking about stall speeds and speeds that may change
with builder setup etc not VNE or Max flap speed rough air etc . I was
thinking how can you set your own VNE
Bit thick, thanks
Chris 388
Wings still glowing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
> I'm right with you there, Randy. That's why when people grab my
> POH, I tell them this is just a base document that they need to
> test for themselves, and won't necessarily fit their needs.
>
> So, for some rough numbers, check the POH's, but for the real deal,
> there's nothing like flying to find out.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>>
>> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is
>> all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static
>> system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is
>> actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just
>> take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only
>> against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test
>> appropriately and fly safely.
>>
>> Randy Lervold
>> RV-8, sold
>> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
>>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Gary
>>> 40274
>
>
>
Message 26
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote:
> I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it.
> Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com.
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf
> Linn
I have seen this but I was hoping that I would not have to 'role my own'. Plus
this one requires a heat sink equaling heat and higher wattage consumption.
My hope is that I could get some discussion about the Pulse Width Modulation types
and if there are any negatives.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163369#163369
Message 27
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| Subject: | Intersection Fairings |
Message 28
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For the experts on the list, this would be a good time for you all to
add in your expertise. Which speeds should come through testing and
which should be derived from Van's numbers? Obviously, bottom of the
white arc and bottom of the green arc are easy to test and should be
tested. Can you really test the top of the white arc, or the yellow
arc, or the blue line or red line? The answer to some of these might
be yes, but I would like to hear what others have to say. Is it
possible, safe and responsible to test and determine Vne? How in the
world would you non-destructively test the max flap extended speed?
For the blue line, do you fly and go full elevator up and down until
you get the the max G's that Van's says they designed for and call
that the Maneuvering Speed? I don't know the answers to these. Maybe
some do.
John?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 10, 2008, at 6:22 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I'm right with you there, Randy. That's why when people grab my
> POH, I tell them this is just a base document that they need to
> test for themselves, and won't necessarily fit their needs.
>
> So, for some rough numbers, check the POH's, but for the real deal,
> there's nothing like flying to find out.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>> <randy@romeolima.com>
>> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I
>> is all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/
>> static system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different
>> speeds. This is actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt
>> community... builders just take numbers from someone elses plane
>> and never test. That is not only against the rules but it's
>> dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly safely.
>> Randy Lervold
>> RV-8, sold
>> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I
>>> have
>>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I
>>> need.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Gary
>>> 40274
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Intersection Fairings |
Let's try this again folks.
Could anyone please tell me if they have fitted (or are planning to fit)
the Fairings-Etc intersection fairings on their aircraft. If so, could
you please indicate your thoughts regrading these fairings in terms of
their appearance, adequacy and if they are worth fitting. Likewise with
the stainless steel wheel pant bracket offered by this supplier.
Any pictures would be very much appreciated please.
Regards
PATRICK PULIS
RV-10 #40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South Australia
Email: patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Pulis
Sent: Monday, 11 February 2008 10:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Intersection Fairings
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings |
That was interesting.? :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Pulis <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
Sent: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 3:58 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Intersection Fairings
________________________________________________________________________
Message 31
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|
Yes the engineer determines the v-speeds in theory, but there are small
differences in airframes (gear leg intersection fairings for example) that
cause differences, and potentially BIG differences in the instrumentation.
In other words let's say we're talking stall speed, Vso, the actual TAS of
your plane at Vso might be the same as your buddy's but your pitot/static
system gives a different result because you used a static port with a
different profile. If you assume his stall speed without testing the
airplane might drop out from under you one day when you're a little slow on
final because you were assuming they were the same. 10 mph differences
between planes in ASI readings at the bottom end of the scale are not
uncommon.
It's fine to use someone elses numbers as a starting point, but to not test
is NOT ok -- it sends chills up my spine thinking about it. I have close
friends who have just gone out and flown their RVs using someone elses
numbers and did no stall testing whatsoever at gross weight & aft CG for
example, only solo/light. The day their test time is flown off they put
Bubba in the pax seat when they have NO IDEA how that load will effect stall
speed or behavior. We are each the manufacturer of our aicraft and are
obliged, both legally and morally I think, derive accurate numbers for safe
operation.
Sorry, off soapbox now, but this is one of my pet peeves.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Randy I am confused here I thought the V speeds would be calculated by
> the engineer who designs the aircraft . I am probably missing your point.
>
> regards Chris 388
> Wings painted and glowing
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:19 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
>>
>> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is
>> all about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static
>> system has its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is
>> actually a problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just
>> take numbers from someone elses plane and never test. That is not only
>> against the rules but it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test
>> appropriately and fly safely.
>>
>> Randy Lervold
>> RV-8, sold
>> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
>>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Gary
>>> 40274
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 32
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I don't comment often, but taking off on the first flight without setting
the various speeds into your EFIS could easily make it your last flight.
Back when there were lots of steam gauges we could take off and check out
all this stuff in phase I. Now however you take your life into your own
hands if you don't first program your computers.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
Well put Randy....But knowing Gary he is just looking for a starting
point,not skirting the intent of phase I.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:19:43 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all
about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has
its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a
problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers from
someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the rules but
it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly safely.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, sold
RV-3B www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>
> Thanks
> Gary
> 40274
Message 33
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orchidman wrote:
>
>
>pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote:
>
>
>>I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it.
>>Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com.
>>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf
>>Linn
>>
>>
>
>I have seen this but I was hoping that I would not have to 'role my own'.
>
I think Aeroelectric sells it built. Or maybe they used to.
> Plus this one requires a heat sink equaling heat and higher wattage consumption.
>
The power has to go somewhere. The old potentiometer type dimmers were
a really high watage variable resistor that also got pretty hot ....
>My hope is that I could get some discussion about the Pulse Width Modulation types
and if there are any negatives.
>
The only negative I can think of is that switching on/off like that
might produce ripple (read noise) on the power bus. You can use a 555
timer (Radio Shack) to drive a power transistor (the 555 won't handle a
lot of current), but we're back to the heat sink if there's a lot of
incandescent lamps. If you go to LED lighting, the power consumption
will be less, and lessen the need for a heatsink.
>
>--------
>Gary Blankenbiller
>RV10 - # 40674
>Fuselage SB
>(N410GB reserved)
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163369#163369
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Flymire heated pitot |
Anybody using this one? What are your experiences? sells at Spruce for $465.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/homepitot.php
Message 35
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I'm using the $115 one from Vans. The instructions include a very
modest modification (2 resistors, one capacitor, details at
http://fdatasystems.com/Manuals/LC-40_Garmin.pdf) to use the PWM signal
with the Garmin 400/500 series units. I elected to follow the dimmer
manufacturer's suggestion, however, and just use the built in photocell
in my 530W to dim the unit automatically. I can always tie it in to the
dimmer later if desired.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
orchidman wrote:
>
> I can't find that much on this subject via 'Search' so I am asking the experts
[Laughing]
> I am at the point of identifying what type of dimmer(s) I am going to go with.
Van's has a single channel for $20 and a 4 channel for $115. The catalog lists
the 4 channel as a Pulse Width Modulation which sounds good but in the archives
here there is one comment about a PWM unit having problems with a 430W.
Paul says that they have a dual channel unit for $75 and it sounds like it is
a voltage regulation type.
>
> Price wise the Van's single unit is the cheapest available but it doesn't say
anything about if it is a PWM or a standard type voltage regulation unit.
>
> My questions are, which method of control is better, voltage regulation or PWM,
and how many circuits are people usually going with?
>
> I will have a dual AFS system, 430W, SL40, 327, PM8000B, TT ADI and other rather
standard cockpit lights.
>
> Thoughts please.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163325#163325
>
>
>
Message 36
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Van's, and Stein both sell some dimmers that work well for
most instrument and radio lighting. Especially if you use
LED's, it's not like you're going to be drawing a lot of
power. I'm sure all of my dimmable circuits likely come to
less than 1A by a fair margin.
Make sure you evaluate your panel in full before worrying
too much about dimmers. I have 2 dimmers, small ones, and
they are for instrument lights, and one for the overhead
lights. Most avionics will auto-dim, or have their own
adjustment. So, you're only really looking at things
like the compass, ADI, CDI, and perhaps one or two other
small things that will even have a dimmer hooked up to it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
linn Walters wrote:
> orchidman wrote:
>>
>>
>> pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote:
>>
>>> I had a nice schematic for a transistor dimmer, but I can't find it.
>>> Here's a more complex but very workable design from Aeroelectric.com.
>>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Dimmers/9013_Ins.pdf
>>> Linn
>>>
>>
>> I have seen this but I was hoping that I would not have to 'role my own'.
> I think Aeroelectric sells it built. Or maybe they used to.
>> Plus this one requires a heat sink equaling heat and higher wattage consumption.
> The power has to go somewhere. The old potentiometer type dimmers were
> a really high watage variable resistor that also got pretty hot ....
>> My hope is that I could get some discussion about the Pulse Width Modulation
types and if there are any negatives.
> The only negative I can think of is that switching on/off like that
> might produce ripple (read noise) on the power bus. You can use a 555
> timer (Radio Shack) to drive a power transistor (the 555 won't handle a
> lot of current), but we're back to the heat sink if there's a lot of
> incandescent lamps. If you go to LED lighting, the power consumption
> will be less, and lessen the need for a heatsink.
>>
>> --------
>> Gary Blankenbiller
>> RV10 - # 40674
>> Fuselage SB
>> (N410GB reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163369#163369
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 37
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| Subject: | Parking Brake Question |
Hi
Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked at the
pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way to attach the
cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4" cushion clamp but am not
happy with the results (it seems a bit loose).
Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way?
Inquiring minds need to know....
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (Reserved)
Message 38
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Agreed that you want some basic numbers to put in the EFIS, but, in the
end, how do you even know the EFIS is reading accurately? The V speeds
in the various POH's that people have should be pretty good for
setting general speed settings. But, since I flew Van's -10 only 2
or 3 days before I flew mine, I had some familiarity with the airplane,
and I had my stall warning set where I *thought* I wanted it. In the
end, I flew by feel on the first couple of landings, and listened to the
voice yell at me for the landing....since I had it set higher than
I should have.
In essence though, all of those instruments are just general references
on your first flights, because if you had a mis-reading Airspeed
indicator, you certainly wouldn't want to fly by and trust it 100%
until you made sure it was accurate. With a quick bit of transition
training, the -10 is easy to fly by feel without even using the
instruments...if need be.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
gary wrote:
>
> I don't comment often, but taking off on the first flight without setting
> the various speeds into your EFIS could easily make it your last flight.
> Back when there were lots of steam gauges we could take off and check out
> all this stuff in phase I. Now however you take your life into your own
> hands if you don't first program your computers.
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 6:39 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
> Well put Randy....But knowing Gary he is just looking for a starting
> point,not skirting the intent of phase I.
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 1:19:43 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
> All your speeds should be derived from testing, that's what Phase I is all
> about. Lots of reasons why, just one is that every pitot/static system has
> its idiosyncracies and will yield different speeds. This is actually a
> problem IMHO with the homebuilt community... builders just take numbers from
>
> someone elses plane and never test. That is not only against the rules but
> it's dangerous. No shortcuts, please test appropriately and fly safely.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, sold
> RV-3B www.rv-3.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 10:51 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: V Speeds
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone have a list of the V speeds for setting up my EFIS? I have
>> searched the archives and still cannot find specifically what I need.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Gary
>> 40274
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Mounting the tail feathers |
I'm almost to the point in my build where I'm ready to mount the HS and
VS to the tailcone. To those of you who have gone ahead with this step
by step in the instructions, how well was the tail section squared and
leveled with the wings when you finally got the tailcone mounted to the
fuse with the wings on? To put it simply, to get things squared and
leveled best do I need to wait until the tailcone and fuse are joined
and the wings installed before mounting the HS and VS??? Also, it looks
like the aft deck is one of my last chances to get any twist out of the
tailcone if there is any. Is it safe to go ahead and rivet it on also.
I assume that since Vans wrote the instructions the way they did I can
go ahead and follow the instructions step by step but I want to know how
far off things might be if I do so!!! I really don't want to have to
drill out a bunch of rivets later on and shim the HS or VS!!!
Thanks
Bill Britton
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Question |
Here's one way.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked
> at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way
> to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4"
> cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose).
>
>
>
> Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way?
>
> *
> *
Message 41
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Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu wrote:
> I'm using the $115 one from Vans. The instructions include a very
> modest modification (2 resistors, one capacitor, details at
> http://fdatasystems.com/Manuals/LC-40_Garmin.pdf) to use the PWM signal
> with the Garmin 400/500 series units. I elected to follow the dimmer
> manufacturer's suggestion, however, and just use the built in photocell
> in my 530W to dim the unit automatically. I can always tie it in to the
> dimmer later if desired.
Tim, thanks for the link. That lead me also to the main manual. Both have given
me the information I need to evaluate this option. Looks good.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163411#163411
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting the tail feathers |
Hey Bill,
Ours was pretty much dead on. We leveled the tailcone section and aligned the
tail feathers just as the plans call for, then checked again after joining to
the fuse. Really not a problem, and probably called for a little victory dance
at the time!
Since then, we've disassembled/re-assembled the tail feathers several times with
temporary bolts in the hinges and junctions -- once it's right, it stays right.
Later, - Lew
do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163419#163419
Message 43
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With flight testing our 6 the ASI came pre marked however first flight
we disregard the stall marking on the ASI until we did our first stall
on first flight reading exactly where the stall speed was on the ASI .
Then 1.5 for safety and you do not have a good guide for landing.
This is basically straight out of the 6 manual. Our ASI was in Kooee of
the stall so we did not have to change the markings.
We followed what the RV6 manual said to do for first flight and
everything was fine.
Max flap speeds , rough air and VNE we take straight from the manual as
the engineers have worked that out.
The 10 is very easy to fly as my wife will tell. She hadnt flown for 2
years , took off had a fly did some stalls etc and then landed like a
pro.
I tend to follow what the manual says as Van is a smart man but its
great to get others opinion.
regards Chris
Message 44
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| Subject: | Parking Brake Question |
Hi Deems
Your setup is very similar to mine (I shamelessly borrowed from the various
methods posted). It looks like you used a 1/4" cushion clap to hold the
cable sleeve. Is this correct?
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: February-10-08 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking Brake Question
Here's one way.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked
> at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way
> to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4"
> cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose).
>
>
>
> Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way?
>
> *
> *
Message 45
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Try again
With flight testing our 6 the ASI came pre marked however first flight
we disregard the stall marking on the ASI until we did our first stall
on first flight reading exactly where the stall speed was on the ASI .
Then 1.5 for safety and you do have a good guide for landing.
This is basically straight out of the 6 manual. Our ASI was in Kooee
of the stall so we did not have to change the markings.
We followed what the RV6 manual said to do for first flight and
everything was fine.
Max flap speeds , rough air and VNE we take straight from the manual
as the engineers have worked that out.
The 10 is very easy to fly as my wife will tell. She hadnt flown for 2
years , took off had a fly did some stalls etc and then landed like a
pro.
I tend to follow what the manual says as Van is a smart man but its
great to get others opinion.
regards Chris
Message 46
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| Subject: | Parking Brake Question |
This is very similar to the way Vans have you termiate the cabin heat pull
cable in other models. One thing they suggest in the plans for 2 seat side
by sides is to use some safety wire wrapped around the cable outer either
side of the clamp and bridged over the top of the clamp. The safety wire
"cathes" in the spiral of the outer and helps prevent it from slipping in
the clamp.
g
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking Brake Question
Here's one way.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2036%20Brake%20Lines/slides/DSC05253.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> Over the weekend I started working on a parking brake. I have looked
> at the pix in the archives but am still wondering about the best way
> to attach the cable sleeve to the standoff. I have tried a 1/4"
> cushion clamp but am not happy with the results (it seems a bit loose).
>
>
>
> Can any of the build gurus suggest a better way?
>
> *
> *
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