Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:39 AM - Re: Interior (Robin Marks)
2. 08:51 AM - Re: Interior (Chuck Henry)
3. 08:57 AM - Re: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection (eagerlee)
4. 09:18 AM - Re: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection (Tim Olson)
5. 10:49 AM - Seat Belt Opinion Please (Robin Marks)
6. 10:49 AM - Re: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1) (Bill Schlatterer)
7. 12:15 PM - Rudder cable travel (Deems Davis)
8. 12:21 PM - Re: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1) (David McNeill)
9. 12:25 PM - Re: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection (David McNeill)
10. 12:38 PM - Re: Interior (Rene)
11. 03:01 PM - Re: Re: Koolmat Installation (McGANN, Ron)
12. 03:04 PM - Re: Re: Koolmat Installation (McGANN, Ron)
13. 03:07 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Aero Duct (McGANN, Ron)
14. 03:46 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Aero Duct (PJ Seipel)
15. 04:08 PM - Re: Rudder cable travel (Paul Grimstad)
16. 05:05 PM - LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, Santa Teresa, NM (Richard Reynolds)
17. 06:11 PM - Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana Count y, Santa Teresa, NM (Frank Benedict)
18. 07:03 PM - Flap Torque Tube Question (Les Kearney)
19. 07:21 PM - Re: Flap Torque Tube Question (Carl Froehlich)
20. 07:56 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Aero Duct (Rene)
21. 08:46 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Aero Duct (Robin Marks)
22. 09:48 PM - Re: Flap Torque Tube Question (Les Kearney)
Message 1
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Rene,
Thanks for the interior photos. I have a question about your
retract seatbelts.
I cobbled together some retract belts that actually worked
great (including Dial Release) but they were quite heavy ~4 Lbs each.
Can I ask where you purchased your retracts, and about what
they weigh?
Grumpy also has a nice set of retracts and I believe Chris
created a set of 3 point retracts in his plane.
Thanks,
Robin
Message 2
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Rene, A real nice look, job well done. A real good target for me to aspire
to.
Chuck
#40806
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior
Here are some pictures of my seats and belts...starting to look like a
flying machine. I plan on finishing the rest of the interior after I am
flying.
Rene'
40322
N423CF..almost finished
801-721-6080
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection |
We just finished the Van's stock door handles, latch mechanism, strut
and seal for both doors. When the door is properly latched there is a
1/16" gap between the door surface and the cabin. When the door is
improperly latched there is a huge gap at the bottom edge of the door
that is impossible to overlook if one takes the time to glance down. The
gap is wedge shaped about 3/4" aft and 1/8" forward. Our Spartan
(non-plush , no leather, no crushed velvet mink or sable) interior will
definitely NOT obscure this telltale. Are any of you flying RV-10
pilots able to do a strictly visual check on your door's security??
Paul Hahn
#40203
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection |
A visual check is very easy in my plane too, with just thin fabric
over the door inside. It is obvious if you have the door
closed wrong. The hard part is ensuring that you actually do
the visual check. That's why I philosophically agree with the
warning light system, yet I've not yet taken the plunge.
I'm not sure if I want to install it as-delivered, or improve
on it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
eagerlee wrote:
> We just finished the Van's stock door handles, latch mechanism, strut
> and seal for both doors. When the door is properly latched there is a
> 1/16" gap between the door surface and the cabin. When the door is
> improperly latched there is a huge gap at the bottom edge of the door
> that is impossible to overlook if one takes the time to glance down. The
> gap is wedge shaped about 3/4" aft and 1/8" forward. Our Spartan
> (non-plush , no leather, no crushed velvet mink or sable) interior will
> definitely NOT obscure this telltale. Are any of you flying RV-10
> pilots able to do a strictly visual check on your door's security??
>
> Paul Hahn
> #40203
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Seat Belt Opinion Please |
Seeing Rene's interior reminded me that I need to make a final decision
on my Seatbelts.
As mentioned earlier I cobbled together some nice seatbelts from a
combination of Drifter 4 point belts and a retract head (eBay). The
entire package was probably $75.00 including the rotary buckle release.
The downside was that they were heavy (~4 Lbs each) and they would
require some custom fabrication to mount. Plus the spool section looks
to be about 30% taller/larger than Rene's retracts. I liked them in
principal but was concerned about straying too far off the reservation
with this change. If I don't go with the retracts I will probably choose
the Hooker belts (~$600 - 10%).
Does anyone have an opinion (loaded question) about the actual
benefits/drawbacks of the retracts vs. the stock mounting of fixed
seatbelts? I don't mind the restriction of my fixed RV-6A belts but the
10 will be more of a X-Country machine for me.
BTW I have legally changed both my name and my wife's name to RV-10
instead of re-embroidering the seats. Thanks Rene.
RV-10 (AKA Robin) Marks
N110EE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, |
P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
Great Pictures, but a question? Are the inertial belts and "reels" coming
from Vans or some other source. If not from Vans, how about a link?
Thanks Bill S
7a Ark finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832,
P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
Just received these pictres from Rene of the inertial belt installation in
his aircraft. I reduced the size to accomodate the dial up users.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rudder cable travel |
I've been noodling on an alternative (spring biased) rudder trim
design. One of the things I need to know from someone that has their
rudder pedals and rudder cables and rudder installed and connected is:
1 _How far does the rudder cable (either side) travel_ ?
With the rudder in 'neutral' position (each rudder pedal in-line with
the other). when you depress the pilot side RIGHT rudder pedal how far
forward does the rudder cable move until the rudder hits it's stop?
Similarly, with the pedals neutral again, when you move the pilot side
LEFT rudder pedal forward until the rudder hits the stop, how far aft
did/does the rudder cable that is connected to the pilot side right
rudder pedal move?
I would greatly appreciate any help in obtaining the above information.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832, P0002834, |
P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
I am building in Phoenix and contacted AMSAFE about inertial belts for the
10. One of their managers flies light airplanes and agreed to make a belt
system for me if I would beef up the hard point arrangement of the lid. The
result is that they refer RV10 belt inquires to me at www.inertialbelts.com.
The belts are specifically sized for the 10 but they may work for other RVs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832,
P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
--> <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Great Pictures, but a question? Are the inertial belts and "reels" coming
from Vans or some other source. If not from Vans, how about a link?
Thanks Bill S
7a Ark finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: P0002847, P0002848, P0002849, P0002832,
P0002834, P0002837, P0002841, P0002847 (1)
Just received these pictres from Rene of the inertial belt installation in
his aircraft. I reduced the size to accomodate the dial up users.
Message 9
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| Subject: | New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch inspection |
I too agonized about the door security system and I conversed with the
builder who lost the door TWICE. The first without hte system and once with
the system installed and working properly. I then concluded my pre takeoff
check would be a visual and touch check for the pins. In addtion a good
fitting door latches a lot easier than one that has a warp (ever so slight)
set during construction.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of eagerlee
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New service letter on RV10 - preflight door latch
inspection
We just finished the Van's stock door handles, latch mechanism, strut and
seal for both doors. When the door is properly latched there is a 1/16" gap
between the door surface and the cabin. When the door is improperly latched
there is a huge gap at the bottom edge of the door that is impossible to
overlook if one takes the time to glance down. The gap is wedge shaped about
3/4" aft and 1/8" forward. Our Spartan (non-plush , no leather, no crushed
velvet mink or sable) interior will definitely NOT obscure this telltale.
Are any of you flying RV-10 pilots able to do a strictly visual check on
your door's security??
Paul Hahn
#40203
Message 10
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Here is where I got the belts...
http://www.inertialbelts.com/
I don't know how much they weighted.but I don't think it was 4 Lbs a
piece.
I am sure David knows...
David McNeill [dlm46007@cox.net]
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:30 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior
Rene,
Thanks for the interior photos. I have a question about your
retract seatbelts.
I cobbled together some retract belts that actually worked
great
(including Dial Release) but they were quite heavy ~4 Lbs each.
Can I ask where you purchased your retracts, and about what
they
weigh?
Grumpy also has a nice set of retracts and I believe Chris
created a set of 3 point retracts in his plane.
Thanks,
Robin
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Koolmat Installation |
Not flying yet - I'll let you know in 3-4 months :->
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dougpflyrv@aol.com
Sent: Friday, 15 February 2008 11:39 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation
RON, DO U FEEL IT HELPED REDUCE TUNNEL HEAT?
DOUG PRESTON
N372RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: McGANN, Ron <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 9:54 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation
<ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Looks like Koolmat installation might become the next 'primer
war'
<gag>.
I installed Koolmat on the engine side of the firewall about 12
months
ago when 'tunnel heat' was the hot topic (bad pun - sorry). It
was my
attempt to reduce any radiant heat affects that drove tunnel
temps and I
used red RTV for attachment. I also installed a layer of
Koolmat on the
tunnel floor, attached with velcro in answer to Lew's question
below. I
have also heard of builders here in Oz using snap fasteners and
even s/s
screws to pin the mat in position, but I doubt that velcro would
be up
to the mission in the engine compartment. Just another 0.02
worth.
Cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com?> ] On Behalf Of Lew
Gallagher
Sent: Friday, 15 February 2008 2:07 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation
<lewgall@charter.net>
Hey Guys,
We're not this far yet, but very interested in the discussion.
If
removable insulation is desirable, is there a velcro product
that could
be used here?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164117#164117
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
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intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
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email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
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________________________________
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?nci
d=aolcmp00050000000003> !
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Koolmat Installation |
Not flying yet - I'll let you know in 3-4 months :->
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dougpflyrv@aol.com
Sent: Friday, 15 February 2008 11:39 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation
RON, DO U FEEL IT HELPED REDUCE TUNNEL HEAT?
DOUG PRESTON
N372RV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: McGANN, Ron <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 9:54 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation
<ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Looks like Koolmat installation might become the next 'primer
war'
<gag>.
I installed Koolmat on the engine side of the firewall about 12
months
ago when 'tunnel heat' was the hot topic (bad pun - sorry). It
was my
attempt to reduce any radiant heat affects that drove tunnel
temps and I
used red RTV for attachment. I also installed a layer of
Koolmat on the
tunnel floor, attached with velcro in answer to Lew's question
below. I
have also heard of builders here in Oz using snap fasteners and
even s/s
screws to pin the mat in position, but I doubt that velcro would
be up
to the mission in the engine compartment. Just another 0.02
worth.
Cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com?> ] On Behalf Of Lew
Gallagher
Sent: Friday, 15 February 2008 2:07 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Koolmat Installation
<lewgall@charter.net>
Hey Guys,
We're not this far yet, but very interested in the discussion.
If
removable insulation is desirable, is there a velcro product
that could
be used here?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164117#164117
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
email to
your computer."
________________________________
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?nci
d=aolcmp00050000000003> !
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 13
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| Subject: | Oil Cooler Aero Duct |
I was wondering how many others have opted to install the engine before
the upper forward fuse was permanently rivetted on? For those that have
installed the engine first, was there any issue with alignment of the
upper fuse to the fuse side skins? Any issues with pre-loading the
engine mount and fuse before the top fuse was rivetted on?
cheers,
Ron
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Saturday, 16 February 2008 5:59 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil
cooler vs. the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the airflow
to the cooler and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct has less
convolutions and a smooth silicone inner liner to assist in air flow.
It's the same duct used for routing air to race car disk brake
assemblies. Unfortunately it comes in 12' sections for ~$150 delivered
(from recollection).
I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including
shipping. I have already sent one section to Don McDonald and he seems
to be pleased with this simple mod.
It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see
below).
If anyone is interested please contact me off list.
Robin
Robin@PaintTheWeb.com
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Aero Duct |
I installed the engine before I put on the upper forward fuse. I
haven't had any issues with alignment. Leaving it off definitely made
wiring the panel and running cables through the firewall much easier
since I didn't know where I wanted to run everything before the engine
was on.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
McGANN wrote:
> I was wondering how many others have opted to install the engine
> before the upper forward fuse was permanently rivetted on? For those
> that have installed the engine first, was there any issue with
> alignment of the upper fuse to the fuse side skins? Any issues with
> pre-loading the engine mount and fuse before the top fuse was rivetted on?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robin
> Marks
> *Sent:* Saturday, 16 February 2008 5:59 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
>
> I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil
> cooler vs. the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the
> airflow to the cooler and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct
> has less convolutions and a smooth silicone inner liner to assist
> in air flow. It's the same duct used for routing air to race car
> disk brake assemblies. Unfortunately it comes in 12' sections for
> ~$150 delivered (from recollection).
>
> I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including
> shipping. I have already sent one section to Don McDonald and he
> seems to be pleased with this simple mod.
>
> It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see below).
>
> If anyone is interested please contact me off list.
>
>
>
> Robin
>
> Robin@PaintTheWeb.com <mailto:Robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
>
>
>
> Duct.jpg
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder cable travel |
Deems
I have studied the rudder system some and although mine is not completely
assembled I offer the following:
The rudder cables travel stop to stop approx. 4.25". As you know the stops
are on the rudder horn where the stop tabs hit the stops on the main spar of
the vertical. Each cable moves half the total travel or approx. 2.125" from
neutral to forward or aft. The pedals travel more than the rudder cable so
if someone confirms the measurement they are best to mark the cable where it
exits the tailcone with a piece of tape and then swing the rudder to the
other side.
How are these springs going to hook up? Are they in the line of the rudder
cable or just attached to the cable?
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, Or.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 12:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder cable travel
>
> I've been noodling on an alternative (spring biased) rudder trim design.
> One of the things I need to know from someone that has their rudder pedals
> and rudder cables and rudder installed and connected is:
>
> 1 _How far does the rudder cable (either side) travel_ ?
>
> With the rudder in 'neutral' position (each rudder pedal in-line with the
> other). when you depress the pilot side RIGHT rudder pedal how far forward
> does the rudder cable move until the rudder hits it's stop?
>
> Similarly, with the pedals neutral again, when you move the pilot side
> LEFT rudder pedal forward until the rudder hits the stop, how far aft
> did/does the rudder cable that is connected to the pilot side right rudder
> pedal move?
>
>
> I would greatly appreciate any help in obtaining the above information.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, Santa |
Teresa, NM
Has a date been set for LOE 2008?
Richard Reynolds
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana Count |
y, Santa Teresa, NM
Check this web site: www.landofenchantmentflyin.com/ The date is TBA.
Frank
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Flap Torque Tube Question |
Hi All
I hesitate to use the word "primer" in a question but I have to. Fortunately
the question is more of a "how to" question rather than a "what to use
question".
Step 3 of page 40-4 of the plans requires the priming of the interior of the
flap torque tubes. Can anyone shed some light as to how one primes the
interior of tubes? This has me stumped. Given the tubes are steel, what does
one use as a primer. Ooops, I just started another primer thread.
Inquiring minds need to know..
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Flap Torque Tube Question |
Flush the inside of the tube with your choice of solvent. Tape closed one
end and pour primer into the tube. Invert the tube as needed to coat the
inside and then pour out the excess primer.
I use PPG DP-40LF for all priming.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Torque Tube Question
Hi All
I hesitate to use the word "primer" in a question but I have to. Fortunately
the question is more of a "how to" question rather than a "what to use
question".
Step 3 of page 40-4 of the plans requires the priming of the interior of the
flap torque tubes. Can anyone shed some light as to how one primes the
interior of tubes? This has me stumped. Given the tubes are steel, what does
one use as a primer. Ooops, I just started another primer thread.
Inquiring minds need to know..
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Oil Cooler Aero Duct |
That is the way I did it, had no problems...
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 4:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
I was wondering how many others have opted to install the engine before
the
upper forward fuse was permanently rivetted on? For those that have
installed the engine first, was there any issue with alignment of the
upper
fuse to the fuse side skins? Any issues with pre-loading the engine
mount
and fuse before the top fuse was rivetted on?
cheers,
Ron
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Saturday, 16 February 2008 5:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Cooler Aero Duct
I made the choice to purchase a premium aero duct to vent my oil cooler
vs.
the standard scat tube. I am trying to optimize the airflow to the
cooler
and maximize its efficiency. The aero duct has less convolutions and a
smooth silicone inner liner to assist in air flow. It's the same duct
used
for routing air to race car disk brake assemblies. Unfortunately it
comes in
12' sections for ~$150 delivered (from recollection).
I am offering 3' sections to the list for $35.00 including shipping. I
have
already sent one section to Don McDonald and he seems to be pleased with
this simple mod.
It's available in any color you want as long as it's Blue (see below).
If anyone is interested please contact me off list.
Robin
Robin@PaintTheWeb.com
Duct.jpg
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Oil Cooler Aero Duct |
The Ducting is long gone. Thanks List. There was a fair amount
of interest. Seems like a RV-10 pre cut set (Oil & Heater) would be a
nice thing. The blue ducts do look good with the engine mount and gear
legs. The Oil duct is only ~16" long. Bummer to have to buy 12'.
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Flap Torque Tube Question |
Hmmm
That seems simple enough.
Thanks
Les
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: February-17-08 8:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap Torque Tube Question
Flush the inside of the tube with your choice of solvent. Tape closed one
end and pour primer into the tube. Invert the tube as needed to coat the
inside and then pour out the excess primer.
I use PPG DP-40LF for all priming.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Torque Tube Question
Hi All
I hesitate to use the word "primer" in a question but I have to. Fortunately
the question is more of a "how to" question rather than a "what to use
question".
Step 3 of page 40-4 of the plans requires the priming of the interior of the
flap torque tubes. Can anyone shed some light as to how one primes the
interior of tubes? This has me stumped. Given the tubes are steel, what does
one use as a primer. Ooops, I just started another primer thread.
Inquiring minds need to know..
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
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