Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:07 AM - Re: Rudder Peddle Position (raddatz)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar (Tim Olson)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Peddle Position (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:10 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Peddle Position (Mark Ritter)
5. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Peddle Position (Tim Olson)
6. 07:37 AM - Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar (ddnebert)
7. 02:16 PM - Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak (McGANN, Ron)
8. 02:50 PM - Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak (McGANN, Ron)
9. 02:50 PM - Trimming wing tips (johngoodman)
10. 04:49 PM - Things to order from Vans and others (Les Kearney)
11. 05:32 PM - Re: Trimming the cowling (Lew Gallagher)
12. 06:21 PM - Door pin alignment (Lew Gallagher)
13. 06:29 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Jesse Saint)
14. 07:10 PM - Re: Trimming wing tips (John Gonzalez)
15. 07:35 PM - Crimpers (Les Kearney)
16. 07:52 PM - Windshield scratches (John Jessen)
17. 08:06 PM - Re: Crimpers (Neal George)
18. 08:11 PM - Re: Door pin alignment (Albert Gardner)
19. 08:14 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (linn Walters)
20. 08:19 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Albert Gardner)
21. 08:22 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (Les Kearney)
22. 08:23 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (eagerlee)
23. 09:09 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (Tim Olson)
24. 09:12 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Tim Olson)
25. 09:25 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Les Kearney)
26. 10:27 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Robin Marks)
27. 10:38 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (John Cleary)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Peddle Position |
Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as close to
the seats as possible for the following reasons:
1. It will allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little.
2. Gives you more stick to belly clearance at full up elevator.
3. Allows you to skip the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables,
which makes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping
in not applying the brake until you want to.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar |
I think this year we were also contemplating having me and/or Michael go
over there a little earlier so we could get contiguous spaces. I think
it was a bit scattered last year and a few of the people who were
out there further thought it would be worthwhile to get sites earlier
and pay a couple extra days, to get them closer. I'll touch base with
Scott, but it may be that if others are unwilling to pick up a couple
more days to be closer to the group, that I'll still get over there
either on, or before that weekend before, so I can grab a couple of
them for us. I definitely think we need to, as a group, like you
mentioned....get a single additional site just for hanging out. It
got a bit tight at times trying to cram all the chairs into the end
of a site. It'll be sweet if we can have better group space this year.
Personally, considering how close the sites are to the show, I think
if we grab some all contiguous, we should skip getting an EAA tent
or whatever, and just do it all at the campsite.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Sounds like a plan!
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *speckter@comcast.net
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:01 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar
>
>
>
> I looked at the calendar and we will probably arrive at OSH on the 21 on
> Monday again and we can stake out the sites on Tues the 22. If you want
> to be the treasurer again, I would be greatful.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > I will also be there again early but haven't really done any
> planning yet. I
> > thought last year worked OK, but if somebody had ideas for
> improvements I'm all
> > ears.
> >
> > BTW, last year folks were very generous with their contributions
> during our
> > various "food nights" and we overachieved a bit... I plan to use
> the excess
> > collected to partially offset cost for an extra site to give us
> more room for
> > gathering and socializing for the group.
> >
> > We can plan more when it gets a little closer.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> > *> --> *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Peddle Position |
At 6'2" I have yet to meet a vehicle I can't comfortably control with the seat
as far back as it will go. Although my wife's Jetta comes close. I have however
been in many that were uncomfortable because I couldn't get back far enough.
I went with the forward position so my rear seat passengers still had some
leg room. YMMV
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position
Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as close to
the seats as possible for the following reasons:
1. It will allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little.
2. Gives you more stick to belly clearance at full up elevator.
3. Allows you to skip the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables,
which makes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping
in not applying the brake until you want to.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Peddle Position |
At 6' I used the forward rudder pedal position and set the seat back three
notches. This setting provides very comfortable knee room under the panel
and more than ample room for rear seat passengers.
With the seat all the way forward my 5'8" friends can reach the rudder peda
ls.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR<html><div></div>
> From: rvbuilder@sausen.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Date: Sun, 24 Fe
b 2008 08:26:47 -0600> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position>
@sausen.net>> > At 6'2" I have yet to meet a vehicle I can't comfortably co
ntrol with the seat as far back as it will go. Although my wife's Jetta com
es close. I have however been in many that were uncomfortable because I cou
ldn't get back far enough. I went with the forward position so my rear seat
passengers still had some leg room. YMMV> > Michael> Do not archive> > ---
--Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto
:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz> Sent: Sunday,
February 24, 2008 7:04 AM> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List:
n667sr@comcast.net>> > Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your
rudder pedals as close to the seats as possible for the following reasons:
> 1. It will allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little.> 2. Gives
you more stick to belly clearance at full up elevator.> 3. Allows you to sk
ip the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables, which ma
kes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping in not app
lying the brake until you want to.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> >
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921> > > > > > > >
-========================
==> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!-Play the word scramble challenge with sta
r power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_ja
n
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Peddle Position |
Same here, and it's working out well so far. It's getting kind
of humorous watching the myth that the RV-10 has a huge hot tunnel
problem, and that it has a big forward CG issue stick around.
The hot tunnel seems to be easy to solve with some real basic
moves, and personally, I'm more concerned after 300 hours with
having my CG more AFT than it has to be, than it being too
far forward. Personally, I think the CG position that Van's
designed with is liveable, and that by adding equipment like
Aux batteries, it still works ok....but I'd be leery of making
it any more aft than it has to be. There are going to be many
people who find out later that they're load limited due to CG,
due to some options that they add to the tail...especially
the people who try to go with lighter props and everything
else if it's in the name of less forward CG.
To me, the only people who should really worry about intentionally
moving things aft due to a far forward CG are those people who
are going to fly a stripped down plane, with the rear seats
almost never filled. THOSE people might want to add some
equipment aft on purpose. I carry no added weight in the tail
anymore (just did for the first 50 hours or so while I still
believed in the myth) and it flies wonderfully that way.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> At 6'2" I have yet to meet a vehicle I can't comfortably control with
> the seat as far back as it will go. Although my wife's Jetta comes
> close. I have however been in many that were uncomfortable because I
> couldn't get back far enough. I went with the forward position so my
> rear seat passengers still had some leg room. YMMV
>
> Michael Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:04 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position
>
>
> Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as
> close to the seats as possible for the following reasons: 1. It will
> allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little. 2. Gives you more
> stick to belly clearance at full up elevator. 3. Allows you to skip
> the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables, which
> makes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping in
> not applying the brake until you want to.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar |
I coordinated a forum on alternative fuels last year and just received forms to
propose a seminar this year. They are roughly 90 minutes long and I was able
to get the day I wanted last time. That time length is ideal for 3 speakers and
discussion -- so in addition to 'tentside chats' in the campground -- are
there three of you who'd like to put together materials/powerpoints for relevant
topics discussed earlier on the thread? If so I can get the slot in-process.
I'd need your names and topics and could proceed.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165937#165937
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak |
Here is a supplement to AirMike's invaluable post below.
"The brass screw is a shear pin - do not try and remove it!"
It shears easily - don't ask how I know ;-(. According to SteinAir, I am not the
first person to have done this! Tim O, maybe a useful inclusion in the RV
University?
The drive wheel should be carefully levered off with the brass screw in position.
Trutrak makes a great product, but their documentation is disgraceful.
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Monday, 26 November 2007 12:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
Pitch Servo Installation RV10
As supplied with torque enhancement rail 1. Confirm that a .20 hole has been drilled
in the proper position on the bellcrank per the plans for the RV10. Placement
and sizing of this hole is of the utmost importance.
2. If it came with your kit, remove (discard or use for another function) the pitch
servo bracket supplied by Vans Aircraft. Use only the pitch servo bracket
supplied with the autopilot servo by TruTrak.
3. Place the servo unit on a stable surface and remove the stainless steel screw
and nylon washer holding the drive wheel and torque rail to the drive shaft.
Carefully set the screw and nylon washer aside. Note the small brass screw on
the drive wheel so that you can reposition it in the same position as it is when
removed. Carefully pry or lift the drive wheel and torque rail off of the
drive shaft.
4. Take the drive wheel rail and torque rail. On the forward edge take the eyebolt
and screw the Rod end bearing #MM-3-300 into the torque rail approximately
half way, using the supplied standard nut as a locking device. Tighten the nut
against the aluminum torque rail.
5. Attach the servo bracket to the airframe per the photo supplied by TruTrak.
Please note that bracket is attached to the inside right line of bolts adjacent
to the bellcrank. Secure the (3) AN3 bolts and the (1) single AN515-8R8 screw
and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or
colored nail polish.
6. Position the servo motor on the outside of the bracket in such a way as the
drive wheel protrudes thru the bracket and the four bolt holes on the bracket
line up with the four bolt holes on the servo motor. When you look at the servo
unit, the electric motor will be aft and the Connector plug part of the servo
will be forward with the connector plug facing outward (away from the bellcrank)
7. Attach the servo motor to the bracket using the four supplied AN3 bolts
and the rough washers. Secure the AN3 bolts and torque to the proper value.
Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. Safety wire
the four bolts at your option.
8. Reposition the drive wheel in the same position as it is when removed. Reattach
the stainless steel screw and nylon washer to the drive shaft (now with the
attached eyebolt).
9. Secure the rod end to the bellcrank as follows: Insert supplied AN3 bolt through
the bellcrank from the pilot side insert aluminum spacer insert rod end
bearing insert large cadmium plated washer and secure these pieces with 10-32
lock nut. Torque to the proper value and mark the torqued bolts as before.
10. Check that , when moved, the toque rail clears the two retaining bolts on the
upper side of the servo motor.
11. This is a good time to be sure that you have made provision to install/secure
the static lines and install any needed security fittings for the wire/s that
operate the pitch servo unit.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148485#148485
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak |
Just checked Tim's site http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/index.html - there is a clear warning not to try and remove the screw - doh!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Monday, 25 February 2008 8:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
--> <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Here is a supplement to AirMike's invaluable post below.
"The brass screw is a shear pin - do not try and remove it!"
It shears easily - don't ask how I know ;-(. According to SteinAir, I am not the
first person to have done this! Tim O, maybe a useful inclusion in the RV
University?
The drive wheel should be carefully levered off with the brass screw in position.
Trutrak makes a great product, but their documentation is disgraceful.
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Monday, 26 November 2007 12:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
Pitch Servo Installation RV10
As supplied with torque enhancement rail 1. Confirm that a .20 hole has been drilled
in the proper position on the bellcrank per the plans for the RV10. Placement
and sizing of this hole is of the utmost importance.
2. If it came with your kit, remove (discard or use for another function) the pitch
servo bracket supplied by Vans Aircraft. Use only the pitch servo bracket
supplied with the autopilot servo by TruTrak.
3. Place the servo unit on a stable surface and remove the stainless steel screw
and nylon washer holding the drive wheel and torque rail to the drive shaft.
Carefully set the screw and nylon washer aside. Note the small brass screw on
the drive wheel so that you can reposition it in the same position as it is when
removed. Carefully pry or lift the drive wheel and torque rail off of the
drive shaft.
4. Take the drive wheel rail and torque rail. On the forward edge take the eyebolt
and screw the Rod end bearing #MM-3-300 into the torque rail approximately
half way, using the supplied standard nut as a locking device. Tighten the nut
against the aluminum torque rail.
5. Attach the servo bracket to the airframe per the photo supplied by TruTrak.
Please note that bracket is attached to the inside right line of bolts adjacent
to the bellcrank. Secure the (3) AN3 bolts and the (1) single AN515-8R8 screw
and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or
colored nail polish.
6. Position the servo motor on the outside of the bracket in such a way as the
drive wheel protrudes thru the bracket and the four bolt holes on the bracket
line up with the four bolt holes on the servo motor. When you look at the servo
unit, the electric motor will be aft and the Connector plug part of the servo
will be forward with the connector plug facing outward (away from the bellcrank)
7. Attach the servo motor to the bracket using the four supplied AN3 bolts
and the rough washers. Secure the AN3 bolts and torque to the proper value.
Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. Safety wire
the four bolts at your option.
8. Reposition the drive wheel in the same position as it is when removed. Reattach
the stainless steel screw and nylon washer to the drive shaft (now with the
attached eyebolt).
9. Secure the rod end to the bellcrank as follows: Insert supplied AN3 bolt through
the bellcrank from the pilot side insert aluminum spacer insert rod end
bearing insert large cadmium plated washer and secure these pieces with 10-32
lock nut. Torque to the proper value and mark the torqued bolts as before.
10. Check that , when moved, the toque rail clears the two retaining bolts on the
upper side of the servo motor.
11. This is a good time to be sure that you have made provision to install/secure
the static lines and install any needed security fittings for the wire/s that
operate the pitch servo unit.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148485#148485
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential
to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure
or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If
you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS:
Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's
responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed
before installing any data sent in this email to your computer."
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Trimming wing tips |
Looking at the plans, it seems that a lot of material needs to be removed on the
wing tips. I think I've got it marked up right but I'd like a quick confidence
builder that I'm not overcutting.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166000#166000
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Things to order from Vans and others |
Hi
I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and bobs to
order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into scrap
today.
I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how necessary
it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the aileron
trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim.
I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires between
the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these connectors?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Trimming the cowling |
Hey Jim,
Just a follow up to tell you how much I appreciate your tape method. Today I used
it to mark the doors to fit the cabin. I made the first cut a hair outside
the line just in case I didn't get it quite right, but after sanding some, I
went right to the line and it's about perfect! How easy is that!
Thanks again. Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166027#166027
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Door pin alignment |
OK, we're about ready to start final fitting the doors and I'm reading ahead about
tapping the rod and making a center pin to thread into it ... just to mark
the center for where it hits the jamb?
Seems like a lot of trouble to go to just to mark a center. Has anybody stuck
a sharpie in there or anything? I didn't see anything on Tim's site about it
-- just thought I'd ask.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166035#166035
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Things to order from Vans and others |
On the connectors, CPC Series 1 or 2 from www.mouser.com. Stein's
molex pin crimp tool is great for the series 1 and the D-sub crimper
for series 2 (the Series 2 machined closed barrel pins are the same as
the D-sub pins, but are only good up to 20 gauge wire, I think).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 24, 2008, at 7:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> I have been wandering through the Van=92s website looking for bits and
> bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I
> turned into scrap today.
>
> I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how
> necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading
> that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim.
>
> I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires
> between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for
> these connectors?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
> Les Kearney
> #40643
> C-GCWZ (reserved)
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Trimming wing tips |
YEPP, ALOT OF TRIMMING IS NEEDED. ALSO, ONCE YOU HAVE THE TIPS IN PLACE WIT
H THE NUTPLATES, BUT BEFORE YOU PUT IN THE TE. RIB, MARK THE AILERON TE ONT
O THE WING TIP WITH A STRAIGHT EDGE. I THINK IT WAS MY LEFT WINGTIP, IT WAS
ABOUT 1.25 INCHES TOO LONG. AMAZING QUALITY!!!> Subject: RV10-List: Trimmi
ng wing tips> From: johngoodman@earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:48
"johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>> > Looking at the plans, it seems
that a lot of material needs to be removed on the wing tips. I think I've
got it marked up right but I'd like a quick confidence builder that I'm not
overcutting.> John> > --------> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished> N711JG
reserved> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.
========================> _
===============> > >
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi Again
I have been looking at electrical tools at the local electronics shop with a
view to acquiring the tools required to do my electrical system.
Not that I know much about these things, but the Paladin Tools seemed well
made. I was thinking of getting their Crimpall handles with dies for
insulated terminals, open barrel and D-sub pins.
Has anyone had experience with this brand of tools? Advice gratefully
appreciated.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Windshield scratches |
Help! Scratches on windshield.............
Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just about
put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice
appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered if anyone
had had such a problem and found a solution that they could
recommend....PLEASE! Ugh.
John J
(on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Les -
I have a set of Paladin Crimpall handles and dies for PIDG terminals.
I'm VERY happy with it.
My D-sub crimper is also a Paladin, Model number PA1440.
Pretty satisfied with it, too.
Shop around. I think I paid about $80 total for both, new, including
shipping.
neal
RV-7 N8ZG
Baffled by Baffles
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Crimpers
Hi Again
I have been looking at electrical tools at the local electronics shop with a
view to acquiring the tools required to do my electrical system.
Not that I know much about these things, but the Paladin Tools seemed well
made. I was thinking of getting their Crimpall handles with dies for
insulated terminals, open barrel and D-sub pins.
Has anyone had experience with this brand of tools? Advice gratefully
appreciated.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Door pin alignment |
I am not happy with the stock door/locking pin setup. They have several
problems that the aftermarket guys have solved. One of them is lack of a
door key lock. If I were doing it again I would spring for one of the better
door handles or at least the machined latching pins with the magnet built in
the pins. Check some the web sites of RV-10 builder and/or the list archives
for post concerning door handles. I wish I had spent some money and did mine
differently. Also, although my door had a really nice fit, after I put the
'P' seal on the door edge I had to do a lot of sanding to make my door close
and the fit isn't quite as nice. The location of the mechanism inside the
door is very far forward but it makes it a stretch to stand in back of the
wing and lean forward to unlatch and open the door. In spite of this I love
this plane.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
OK, we're about ready to start final fitting the doors and I'm reading ahead
about tapping the rod and making a center pin to thread into it ... just to
mark the center for where it hits the jamb?
Seems like a lot of trouble to go to just to mark a center. Has anybody
stuck a sharpie in there or anything? I didn't see anything on Tim's site
about it -- just thought I'd ask.
Later, - Lew
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windshield scratches |
Get a Micro Mesh kit. Follow the instructions and use copious amounts
of water .... adding a little dish soap won't hurt either. Take your
time. You'll get some sore arm muscles in trade for a clear view.
Linn
John Jessen wrote:
> Help! Scratches on windshield.............
>
> Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just
> about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any
> advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered
> if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could
> recommend....PLEASE! Ugh.
>
> John J
> (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Things to order from Vans and others |
Rudder trim is far more of a "nice but not really necessary" option than
aileron trim. The trim kit is very easy to install at any point or even
after the plane is finished. Put the 5 wire cable in place during
construction and plan ahead for space of the IP for a switch and
indicator
and you would be ready to add trim later. The kit is about $350 ordered
as
an option. Rudder trim at cruise can be a simple tab or wedge on the
rudder
as required but many of us would like to have adjustable rudder trim.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Hi
I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and
bobs to
order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into
scrap
today.
I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how
necessary
it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the
aileron
trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim.
I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires
between
the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these
connectors?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Windshield scratches |
John
Every year there is a chap at KOSH who flogs a 3M scratch repair kit similar
to:
http://www.skygeek.com/window-tools.html
I have watched while a window is scratch and the all the scratches are
polished out. I tried this on my PA218 a few years back and ended up just
replacing the window. If you try one of these products, get someone who
knows what they are doing to do it for you. My impression is that these
products can be very effective in the right hands.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: February-24-08 8:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield scratches
Help! Scratches on windshield.............
Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just about
put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice
appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered if anyone
had had such a problem and found a solution that they could
recommend....PLEASE! Ugh.
John J
(on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windshield scratches |
I believe you have two choices. The first one is messy - ruins the paint job: replace
the windscreen. The second one isn't as bad but probably takes just as
much time: buff out the scratches with progressively finer abrasive material.
The stuff you need comes in a kit with instructions. You start out coarse(400
grit?) and graduate up to 1800 or 2000 (crocus cloth?) with water. I've never
done it but I hear it works. Mask off anything you don't want to scratch while
you are removing scratches.
Paul Hahn
#40203
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166062#166062
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windshield scratches |
I've used this kit before, on a couple different planes, and it
worked miracles.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
It's called "Scratch Off".
I used it on all of my windows when I got done, to get rid of
any scratches I caused during construction.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
John Jessen wrote:
> Help! Scratches on windshield.............
>
> Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just
> about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any
> advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered
> if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could
> recommend....PLEASE! Ugh.
>
> John J
> (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Things to order from Vans and others |
I'm not so sure.... If I were to be forced to choose today between
my rudder trim and my aileron trim, it would be a very hard choice.
The rudder trim I would never do without if I ever built another plane.
The spring bias aileron trim though isn't all that fantastic
in how it works. The -10 does have long tanks, so fuel imbalance
can happen pretty easily, so I really don't think I'd build a -10
without aileron trim either, but I don't find that I use it as much
as I use my rudder trim.
To me, they're probably both things that would be very smart to
wire for, because I think most people would really want both once
they've had the time to fly behind them both.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Albert Gardner wrote:
> Rudder trim is far more of a nice but not really necessary option than
> aileron trim. The trim kit is very easy to install at any point or even
> after the plane is finished. Put the 5 wire cable in place during
> construction and plan ahead for space of the IP for a switch and
> indicator and you would be ready to add trim later. The kit is about
> $350 ordered as an option. Rudder trim at cruise can be a simple tab or
> wedge on the rudder as required but many of us would like to have
> adjustable rudder trim.
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> N991RV
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Hi
>
> I have been wandering through the Vans website looking for bits and
> bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned
> into scrap today.
>
> I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how
> necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading
> that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim.
>
> I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires
> between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these
> connectors?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643
>
> C-GCWZ (reserved)
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Things to order from Vans and others |
Jesse
Many thanks. This is just what I needed.
Cheers
Les
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: February-24-08 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others
On the connectors, CPC Series 1 or 2 from www.mouser.com. Stein's molex pin
crimp tool is great for the series 1 and the D-sub crimper for series 2 (the
Series 2 machined closed barrel pins are the same as the D-sub pins, but are
only good up to 20 gauge wire, I think).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 24, 2008, at 7:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and bobs to
order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into scrap
today.
I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how necessary
it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the aileron
trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim.
I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires between
the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these connectors?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Things to order from Vans and others |
Les,
One more suggestion... RV-8 QuickBuild?
Just a suggestion. What, I'm the only smart ass left on the
RV-10 list?
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others
Jesse
Many thanks. This is just what I needed.
Cheers
Les
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: February-24-08 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others
On the connectors, CPC Series 1 or 2 from www.mouser.com. Stein's molex
pin crimp tool is great for the series 1 and the D-sub crimper for
series 2 (the Series 2 machined closed barrel pins are the same as the
D-sub pins, but are only good up to 20 gauge wire, I think).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 24, 2008, at 7:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and
bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned
into scrap today.
I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how
necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading
that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim.
I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires
between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these
connectors?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Windshield scratches |
John,
This happened to an RV6 in our hangar. It was repaired by a chap who
does
motor cycle plastic repairs and after he finished you could not tell it
had
been done. The process was complex with many stages and he was clearly
masterful at it. Having seen it done, I wouldn=92t try it myself.
Good luck,
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Monday, 25 February 2008 2:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield scratches
Help! Scratches on windshield.............
Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just
about
put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice
appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered if
anyone
had had such a problem and found a solution that they could
recommend....PLEASE! Ugh.
John J
(on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
24/02/2008
12:19 PM
24/02/2008
12:19 PM
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|