---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 02/24/08: 27 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:07 AM - Re: Rudder Peddle Position (raddatz) 2. 05:42 AM - Re: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar (Tim Olson) 3. 06:31 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Peddle Position (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 4. 07:10 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Peddle Position (Mark Ritter) 5. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Peddle Position (Tim Olson) 6. 07:37 AM - Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar (ddnebert) 7. 02:16 PM - Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak (McGANN, Ron) 8. 02:50 PM - Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak (McGANN, Ron) 9. 02:50 PM - Trimming wing tips (johngoodman) 10. 04:49 PM - Things to order from Vans and others (Les Kearney) 11. 05:32 PM - Re: Trimming the cowling (Lew Gallagher) 12. 06:21 PM - Door pin alignment (Lew Gallagher) 13. 06:29 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Jesse Saint) 14. 07:10 PM - Re: Trimming wing tips (John Gonzalez) 15. 07:35 PM - Crimpers (Les Kearney) 16. 07:52 PM - Windshield scratches (John Jessen) 17. 08:06 PM - Re: Crimpers (Neal George) 18. 08:11 PM - Re: Door pin alignment (Albert Gardner) 19. 08:14 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (linn Walters) 20. 08:19 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Albert Gardner) 21. 08:22 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (Les Kearney) 22. 08:23 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (eagerlee) 23. 09:09 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (Tim Olson) 24. 09:12 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Tim Olson) 25. 09:25 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Les Kearney) 26. 10:27 PM - Re: Things to order from Vans and others (Robin Marks) 27. 10:38 PM - Re: Windshield scratches (John Cleary) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:07:35 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position From: "raddatz" Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as close to the seats as possible for the following reasons: 1. It will allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little. 2. Gives you more stick to belly clearance at full up elevator. 3. Allows you to skip the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables, which makes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping in not applying the brake until you want to. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:42:19 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar I think this year we were also contemplating having me and/or Michael go over there a little earlier so we could get contiguous spaces. I think it was a bit scattered last year and a few of the people who were out there further thought it would be worthwhile to get sites earlier and pay a couple extra days, to get them closer. I'll touch base with Scott, but it may be that if others are unwilling to pick up a couple more days to be closer to the group, that I'll still get over there either on, or before that weekend before, so I can grab a couple of them for us. I definitely think we need to, as a group, like you mentioned....get a single additional site just for hanging out. It got a bit tight at times trying to cram all the chairs into the end of a site. It'll be sweet if we can have better group space this year. Personally, considering how close the sites are to the show, I think if we grab some all contiguous, we should skip getting an EAA tent or whatever, and just do it all at the campsite. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > Sounds like a plan! > > > > Bob > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *speckter@comcast.net > *Sent:* Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:01 PM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar > > > > I looked at the calendar and we will probably arrive at OSH on the 21 on > Monday again and we can stake out the sites on Tues the 22. If you want > to be the treasurer again, I would be greatful. > > > > Gary > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: "bcondrey" > > > > > Gary, > > > > I will also be there again early but haven't really done any > planning yet. I > > thought last year worked OK, but if somebody had ideas for > improvements I'm all > > ears. > > > > BTW, last year folks were very generous with their contributions > during our > > various "food nights" and we overachieved a bit... I plan to use > the excess > > collected to partially offset cost for an extra site to give us > more room for > > gathering and socializing for the group. > > > > We can plan more when it gets a little closer. > > > > Bob > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > *> --> * > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > * * > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:31:39 AM PST US From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position At 6'2" I have yet to meet a vehicle I can't comfortably control with the seat as far back as it will go. Although my wife's Jetta comes close. I have however been in many that were uncomfortable because I couldn't get back far enough. I went with the forward position so my rear seat passengers still had some leg room. YMMV Michael Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:04 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as close to the seats as possible for the following reasons: 1. It will allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little. 2. Gives you more stick to belly clearance at full up elevator. 3. Allows you to skip the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables, which makes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping in not applying the brake until you want to. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:10:48 AM PST US From: Mark Ritter Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position At 6' I used the forward rudder pedal position and set the seat back three notches. This setting provides very comfortable knee room under the panel and more than ample room for rear seat passengers. With the seat all the way forward my 5'8" friends can reach the rudder peda ls. Mark RV-10/N410MR
> From: rvbuilder@sausen.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Date: Sun, 24 Fe b 2008 08:26:47 -0600> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position> @sausen.net>> > At 6'2" I have yet to meet a vehicle I can't comfortably co ntrol with the seat as far back as it will go. Although my wife's Jetta com es close. I have however been in many that were uncomfortable because I cou ldn't get back far enough. I went with the forward position so my rear seat passengers still had some leg room. YMMV> > Michael> Do not archive> > --- --Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto :owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:04 AM> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: n667sr@comcast.net>> > Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as close to the seats as possible for the following reasons: > 1. It will allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little.> 2. Gives you more stick to belly clearance at full up elevator.> 3. Allows you to sk ip the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables, which ma kes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping in not app lying the brake until you want to.> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921> > > > > > > > -======================== ==> > > _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts!-Play the word scramble challenge with sta r power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_ja n ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:21:51 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position Same here, and it's working out well so far. It's getting kind of humorous watching the myth that the RV-10 has a huge hot tunnel problem, and that it has a big forward CG issue stick around. The hot tunnel seems to be easy to solve with some real basic moves, and personally, I'm more concerned after 300 hours with having my CG more AFT than it has to be, than it being too far forward. Personally, I think the CG position that Van's designed with is liveable, and that by adding equipment like Aux batteries, it still works ok....but I'd be leery of making it any more aft than it has to be. There are going to be many people who find out later that they're load limited due to CG, due to some options that they add to the tail...especially the people who try to go with lighter props and everything else if it's in the name of less forward CG. To me, the only people who should really worry about intentionally moving things aft due to a far forward CG are those people who are going to fly a stripped down plane, with the rear seats almost never filled. THOSE people might want to add some equipment aft on purpose. I carry no added weight in the tail anymore (just did for the first 50 hours or so while I still believed in the myth) and it flies wonderfully that way. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > > > At 6'2" I have yet to meet a vehicle I can't comfortably control with > the seat as far back as it will go. Although my wife's Jetta comes > close. I have however been in many that were uncomfortable because I > couldn't get back far enough. I went with the forward position so my > rear seat passengers still had some leg room. YMMV > > Michael Do not archive > > -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raddatz > Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:04 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Peddle Position > > > Always and I don't care how tall you are, mount your rudder pedals as > close to the seats as possible for the following reasons: 1. It will > allow you to sit further back, helping CG a little. 2. Gives you more > stick to belly clearance at full up elevator. 3. Allows you to skip > the extensions you have to make between the peddles and cables, which > makes the bottom of the peddle a few degrees closer to you helping in > not applying the brake until you want to. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165921#165921 > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:37:29 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar From: "ddnebert" I coordinated a forum on alternative fuels last year and just received forms to propose a seminar this year. They are roughly 90 minutes long and I was able to get the day I wanted last time. That time length is ideal for 3 speakers and discussion -- so in addition to 'tentside chats' in the campground -- are there three of you who'd like to put together materials/powerpoints for relevant topics discussed earlier on the thread? If so I can get the slot in-process. I'd need your names and topics and could proceed. -------- RV-10 Builder #40546 Tail mostly done, wings complete, starting SB fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165937#165937 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:16:55 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak From: "McGANN, Ron" Here is a supplement to AirMike's invaluable post below. "The brass screw is a shear pin - do not try and remove it!" It shears easily - don't ask how I know ;-(. According to SteinAir, I am not the first person to have done this! Tim O, maybe a useful inclusion in the RV University? The drive wheel should be carefully levered off with the brass screw in position. Trutrak makes a great product, but their documentation is disgraceful. Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Monday, 26 November 2007 12:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak Pitch Servo Installation RV10 As supplied with torque enhancement rail 1. Confirm that a .20 hole has been drilled in the proper position on the bellcrank per the plans for the RV10. Placement and sizing of this hole is of the utmost importance. 2. If it came with your kit, remove (discard or use for another function) the pitch servo bracket supplied by Vans Aircraft. Use only the pitch servo bracket supplied with the autopilot servo by TruTrak. 3. Place the servo unit on a stable surface and remove the stainless steel screw and nylon washer holding the drive wheel and torque rail to the drive shaft. Carefully set the screw and nylon washer aside. Note the small brass screw on the drive wheel so that you can reposition it in the same position as it is when removed. Carefully pry or lift the drive wheel and torque rail off of the drive shaft. 4. Take the drive wheel rail and torque rail. On the forward edge take the eyebolt and screw the Rod end bearing #MM-3-300 into the torque rail approximately half way, using the supplied standard nut as a locking device. Tighten the nut against the aluminum torque rail. 5. Attach the servo bracket to the airframe per the photo supplied by TruTrak. Please note that bracket is attached to the inside right line of bolts adjacent to the bellcrank. Secure the (3) AN3 bolts and the (1) single AN515-8R8 screw and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. 6. Position the servo motor on the outside of the bracket in such a way as the drive wheel protrudes thru the bracket and the four bolt holes on the bracket line up with the four bolt holes on the servo motor. When you look at the servo unit, the electric motor will be aft and the Connector plug part of the servo will be forward with the connector plug facing outward (away from the bellcrank) 7. Attach the servo motor to the bracket using the four supplied AN3 bolts and the rough washers. Secure the AN3 bolts and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. Safety wire the four bolts at your option. 8. Reposition the drive wheel in the same position as it is when removed. Reattach the stainless steel screw and nylon washer to the drive shaft (now with the attached eyebolt). 9. Secure the rod end to the bellcrank as follows: Insert supplied AN3 bolt through the bellcrank from the pilot side insert aluminum spacer insert rod end bearing insert large cadmium plated washer and secure these pieces with 10-32 lock nut. Torque to the proper value and mark the torqued bolts as before. 10. Check that , when moved, the toque rail clears the two retaining bolts on the upper side of the servo motor. 11. This is a good time to be sure that you have made provision to install/secure the static lines and install any needed security fittings for the wire/s that operate the pitch servo unit. -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148485#148485 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:50:23 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak From: "McGANN, Ron" Just checked Tim's site http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060816/index.html - there is a clear warning not to try and remove the screw - doh!!! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Monday, 25 February 2008 8:44 AM Subject: RV10-List: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak --> Here is a supplement to AirMike's invaluable post below. "The brass screw is a shear pin - do not try and remove it!" It shears easily - don't ask how I know ;-(. According to SteinAir, I am not the first person to have done this! Tim O, maybe a useful inclusion in the RV University? The drive wheel should be carefully levered off with the brass screw in position. Trutrak makes a great product, but their documentation is disgraceful. Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Monday, 26 November 2007 12:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak Pitch Servo Installation RV10 As supplied with torque enhancement rail 1. Confirm that a .20 hole has been drilled in the proper position on the bellcrank per the plans for the RV10. Placement and sizing of this hole is of the utmost importance. 2. If it came with your kit, remove (discard or use for another function) the pitch servo bracket supplied by Vans Aircraft. Use only the pitch servo bracket supplied with the autopilot servo by TruTrak. 3. Place the servo unit on a stable surface and remove the stainless steel screw and nylon washer holding the drive wheel and torque rail to the drive shaft. Carefully set the screw and nylon washer aside. Note the small brass screw on the drive wheel so that you can reposition it in the same position as it is when removed. Carefully pry or lift the drive wheel and torque rail off of the drive shaft. 4. Take the drive wheel rail and torque rail. On the forward edge take the eyebolt and screw the Rod end bearing #MM-3-300 into the torque rail approximately half way, using the supplied standard nut as a locking device. Tighten the nut against the aluminum torque rail. 5. Attach the servo bracket to the airframe per the photo supplied by TruTrak. Please note that bracket is attached to the inside right line of bolts adjacent to the bellcrank. Secure the (3) AN3 bolts and the (1) single AN515-8R8 screw and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. 6. Position the servo motor on the outside of the bracket in such a way as the drive wheel protrudes thru the bracket and the four bolt holes on the bracket line up with the four bolt holes on the servo motor. When you look at the servo unit, the electric motor will be aft and the Connector plug part of the servo will be forward with the connector plug facing outward (away from the bellcrank) 7. Attach the servo motor to the bracket using the four supplied AN3 bolts and the rough washers. Secure the AN3 bolts and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. Safety wire the four bolts at your option. 8. Reposition the drive wheel in the same position as it is when removed. Reattach the stainless steel screw and nylon washer to the drive shaft (now with the attached eyebolt). 9. Secure the rod end to the bellcrank as follows: Insert supplied AN3 bolt through the bellcrank from the pilot side insert aluminum spacer insert rod end bearing insert large cadmium plated washer and secure these pieces with 10-32 lock nut. Torque to the proper value and mark the torqued bolts as before. 10. Check that , when moved, the toque rail clears the two retaining bolts on the upper side of the servo motor. 11. This is a good time to be sure that you have made provision to install/secure the static lines and install any needed security fittings for the wire/s that operate the pitch servo unit. -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148485#148485 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:50:44 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Trimming wing tips From: "johngoodman" Looking at the plans, it seems that a lot of material needs to be removed on the wing tips. I think I've got it marked up right but I'd like a quick confidence builder that I'm not overcutting. John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166000#166000 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:49:36 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others Hi I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into scrap today. I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim. I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these connectors? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:32:27 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trimming the cowling From: "Lew Gallagher" Hey Jim, Just a follow up to tell you how much I appreciate your tape method. Today I used it to mark the doors to fit the cabin. I made the first cut a hair outside the line just in case I didn't get it quite right, but after sanding some, I went right to the line and it's about perfect! How easy is that! Thanks again. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166027#166027 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:21:00 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Door pin alignment From: "Lew Gallagher" OK, we're about ready to start final fitting the doors and I'm reading ahead about tapping the rod and making a center pin to thread into it ... just to mark the center for where it hits the jamb? Seems like a lot of trouble to go to just to mark a center. Has anybody stuck a sharpie in there or anything? I didn't see anything on Tim's site about it -- just thought I'd ask. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Landing gear installed, we're mobile! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166035#166035 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:29:22 PM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others On the connectors, CPC Series 1 or 2 from www.mouser.com. Stein's molex pin crimp tool is great for the series 1 and the D-sub crimper for series 2 (the Series 2 machined closed barrel pins are the same as the D-sub pins, but are only good up to 20 gauge wire, I think). Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Feb 24, 2008, at 7:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote: > Hi > > I have been wandering through the Van=92s website looking for bits and > bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I > turned into scrap today. > > I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how > necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading > that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim. > > I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires > between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for > these connectors? > > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les Kearney > #40643 > C-GCWZ (reserved) > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:10:20 PM PST US From: John Gonzalez Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming wing tips YEPP, ALOT OF TRIMMING IS NEEDED. ALSO, ONCE YOU HAVE THE TIPS IN PLACE WIT H THE NUTPLATES, BUT BEFORE YOU PUT IN THE TE. RIB, MARK THE AILERON TE ONT O THE WING TIP WITH A STRAIGHT EDGE. I THINK IT WAS MY LEFT WINGTIP, IT WAS ABOUT 1.25 INCHES TOO LONG. AMAZING QUALITY!!!> Subject: RV10-List: Trimmi ng wing tips> From: johngoodman@earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:48 "johngoodman" > > Looking at the plans, it seems that a lot of material needs to be removed on the wing tips. I think I've got it marked up right but I'd like a quick confidence builder that I'm not overcutting.> John> > --------> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished> N711JG reserved> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics. ========================> _ ===============> > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:35:22 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: RV10-List: Crimpers Hi Again I have been looking at electrical tools at the local electronics shop with a view to acquiring the tools required to do my electrical system. Not that I know much about these things, but the Paladin Tools seemed well made. I was thinking of getting their Crimpall handles with dies for insulated terminals, open barrel and D-sub pins. Has anyone had experience with this brand of tools? Advice gratefully appreciated. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:52:08 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Windshield scratches From: John Jessen Help! Scratches on windshield............. Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could recommend....PLEASE! Ugh. John J (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:11 PM PST US From: "Neal George" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Crimpers Les - I have a set of Paladin Crimpall handles and dies for PIDG terminals. I'm VERY happy with it. My D-sub crimper is also a Paladin, Model number PA1440. Pretty satisfied with it, too. Shop around. I think I paid about $80 total for both, new, including shipping. neal RV-7 N8ZG Baffled by Baffles _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Crimpers Hi Again I have been looking at electrical tools at the local electronics shop with a view to acquiring the tools required to do my electrical system. Not that I know much about these things, but the Paladin Tools seemed well made. I was thinking of getting their Crimpall handles with dies for insulated terminals, open barrel and D-sub pins. Has anyone had experience with this brand of tools? Advice gratefully appreciated. Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com /Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:11:21 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door pin alignment I am not happy with the stock door/locking pin setup. They have several problems that the aftermarket guys have solved. One of them is lack of a door key lock. If I were doing it again I would spring for one of the better door handles or at least the machined latching pins with the magnet built in the pins. Check some the web sites of RV-10 builder and/or the list archives for post concerning door handles. I wish I had spent some money and did mine differently. Also, although my door had a really nice fit, after I put the 'P' seal on the door edge I had to do a lot of sanding to make my door close and the fit isn't quite as nice. The location of the mechanism inside the door is very far forward but it makes it a stretch to stand in back of the wing and lean forward to unlatch and open the door. In spite of this I love this plane. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- OK, we're about ready to start final fitting the doors and I'm reading ahead about tapping the rod and making a center pin to thread into it ... just to mark the center for where it hits the jamb? Seems like a lot of trouble to go to just to mark a center. Has anybody stuck a sharpie in there or anything? I didn't see anything on Tim's site about it -- just thought I'd ask. Later, - Lew ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:14:23 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield scratches Get a Micro Mesh kit. Follow the instructions and use copious amounts of water .... adding a little dish soap won't hurt either. Take your time. You'll get some sore arm muscles in trade for a clear view. Linn John Jessen wrote: > Help! Scratches on windshield............. > > Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just > about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any > advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered > if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could > recommend....PLEASE! Ugh. > > John J > (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10) > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:19:49 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others Rudder trim is far more of a "nice but not really necessary" option than aileron trim. The trim kit is very easy to install at any point or even after the plane is finished. Put the 5 wire cable in place during construction and plan ahead for space of the IP for a switch and indicator and you would be ready to add trim later. The kit is about $350 ordered as an option. Rudder trim at cruise can be a simple tab or wedge on the rudder as required but many of us would like to have adjustable rudder trim. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Hi I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into scrap today. I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim. I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these connectors? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:22:27 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windshield scratches John Every year there is a chap at KOSH who flogs a 3M scratch repair kit similar to: http://www.skygeek.com/window-tools.html I have watched while a window is scratch and the all the scratches are polished out. I tried this on my PA218 a few years back and ended up just replacing the window. If you try one of these products, get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you. My impression is that these products can be very effective in the right hands. Cheers Les _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Sent: February-24-08 8:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Windshield scratches Help! Scratches on windshield............. Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could recommend....PLEASE! Ugh. John J (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10) ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:37 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windshield scratches From: "eagerlee" I believe you have two choices. The first one is messy - ruins the paint job: replace the windscreen. The second one isn't as bad but probably takes just as much time: buff out the scratches with progressively finer abrasive material. The stuff you need comes in a kit with instructions. You start out coarse(400 grit?) and graduate up to 1800 or 2000 (crocus cloth?) with water. I've never done it but I hear it works. Mask off anything you don't want to scratch while you are removing scratches. Paul Hahn #40203 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166062#166062 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 09:09:18 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield scratches I've used this kit before, on a couple different planes, and it worked miracles. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php It's called "Scratch Off". I used it on all of my windows when I got done, to get rid of any scratches I caused during construction. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying John Jessen wrote: > Help! Scratches on windshield............. > > Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just > about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any > advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered > if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could > recommend....PLEASE! Ugh. > > John J > (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10) > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:12:56 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others I'm not so sure.... If I were to be forced to choose today between my rudder trim and my aileron trim, it would be a very hard choice. The rudder trim I would never do without if I ever built another plane. The spring bias aileron trim though isn't all that fantastic in how it works. The -10 does have long tanks, so fuel imbalance can happen pretty easily, so I really don't think I'd build a -10 without aileron trim either, but I don't find that I use it as much as I use my rudder trim. To me, they're probably both things that would be very smart to wire for, because I think most people would really want both once they've had the time to fly behind them both. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Albert Gardner wrote: > Rudder trim is far more of a nice but not really necessary option than > aileron trim. The trim kit is very easy to install at any point or even > after the plane is finished. Put the 5 wire cable in place during > construction and plan ahead for space of the IP for a switch and > indicator and you would be ready to add trim later. The kit is about > $350 ordered as an option. Rudder trim at cruise can be a simple tab or > wedge on the rudder as required but many of us would like to have > adjustable rudder trim. > > Albert Gardner > > N991RV > > Yuma, AZ > > > > -----Original Message----- > Hi > > I have been wandering through the Vans website looking for bits and > bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned > into scrap today. > > I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how > necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading > that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim. > > I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires > between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these > connectors? > > Inquiring minds need to know > > Les Kearney > > #40643 > > C-GCWZ (reserved) > > > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:25:07 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: RE: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others Jesse Many thanks. This is just what I needed. Cheers Les Do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: February-24-08 7:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others On the connectors, CPC Series 1 or 2 from www.mouser.com. Stein's molex pin crimp tool is great for the series 1 and the D-sub crimper for series 2 (the Series 2 machined closed barrel pins are the same as the D-sub pins, but are only good up to 20 gauge wire, I think). Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Feb 24, 2008, at 7:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into scrap today. I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim. I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these connectors? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 10:27:48 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others From: "Robin Marks" Les, One more suggestion... RV-8 QuickBuild? Just a suggestion. What, I'm the only smart ass left on the RV-10 list? Robin Do Not Archive From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others Jesse Many thanks. This is just what I needed. Cheers Les Do not archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: February-24-08 7:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Things to order from Vans and others On the connectors, CPC Series 1 or 2 from www.mouser.com. Stein's molex pin crimp tool is great for the series 1 and the D-sub crimper for series 2 (the Series 2 machined closed barrel pins are the same as the D-sub pins, but are only good up to 20 gauge wire, I think). Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Feb 24, 2008, at 7:40 PM, Les Kearney wrote: Hi I have been wandering through the Van's website looking for bits and bobs to order along with a replacement for a piece of aluminium I turned into scrap today. I noticed that there is an aileron trim kit and was wondering how necessary it is on the -10. Any comments? I seem to remember reading that the aileron trim was not as necessary on the -10 as rudder trim. I also saw *somewhere* some barrel connectors used to connect wires between the wings & the fuse. Does anyone have a part number for these connectors? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved) http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s .com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 10:38:56 PM PST US From: "John Cleary" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windshield scratches John, This happened to an RV6 in our hangar. It was repaired by a chap who does motor cycle plastic repairs and after he finished you could not tell it had been done. The process was complex with many stages and he was clearly masterful at it. Having seen it done, I wouldn=92t try it myself. Good luck, John Cleary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Sent: Monday, 25 February 2008 2:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Windshield scratches Help! Scratches on windshield............. Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could recommend....PLEASE! Ugh. John J (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10) "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List "http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion 24/02/2008 12:19 PM 24/02/2008 12:19 PM ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.