Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:56 AM - Re: Crimpers (marcausman)
2. 07:27 AM - Re: Windshield scratches (Tim Olson)
3. 08:02 AM - Re: Windshield scratches (John Ackerman)
4. 08:37 AM - Re: Windshield scratches (Tim Olson)
5. 10:52 AM - BA Prop (Robin Marks)
6. 10:52 AM - Re: Windshield scratches (Mark Ritter)
7. 10:56 AM - Re: Windshield scratches (John Jessen)
8. 11:00 AM - Re: BA Prop (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 11:25 AM - Re: BA Prop (Pascal)
10. 11:35 AM - ARC follow-up (Deems Davis)
11. 11:35 AM - Re: Windshield scratches (John W. Cox)
12. 11:54 AM - Re: BA Prop (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 12:38 PM - Re: BA Prop (John W. Cox)
14. 01:03 PM - Fitting the cowl tips and the 1/4 turn fastner (Rick Sked)
15. 01:04 PM - Elevator Stops (gary)
16. 01:04 PM - Re: BA Prop (Robin Marks)
17. 01:08 PM - Re: BA Prop (gary)
18. 01:42 PM - Re: BA Prop (Mark Ritter)
19. 01:57 PM - Re: BA Prop (gary)
20. 02:11 PM - Fuel Tank Leak (Mark Ritter)
21. 02:39 PM - Unusual paint ridge around windows (John Testement)
22. 02:41 PM - Re: BA Prop (John W. Cox)
23. 02:42 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Rob Kermanj)
24. 02:44 PM - Re: Elevator Stops (jkreidler)
25. 02:48 PM - Re: BA Prop (John Gonzalez)
26. 03:03 PM - Re: BA Prop (John Jessen)
27. 03:23 PM - Re: BA Prop (John W. Cox)
28. 03:58 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Mark Ritter)
29. 04:05 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Pascal)
30. 04:14 PM - Re: BA Prop (Kelly McMullen)
31. 04:16 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Kelly McMullen)
32. 05:46 PM - Re: BA Prop (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
33. 06:27 PM - safety-trim mounting locations (Ben Westfall)
34. 06:59 PM - Re: safety-trim mounting locations (Bob-tcw)
35. 07:05 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Rob Kermanj)
36. 07:07 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Rob Kermanj)
37. 07:12 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Rob Kermanj)
38. 07:38 PM - Re: Fitting the cowl tips and the 1/4 turn fastner (John Dunne)
39. 07:47 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Pascal)
40. 07:56 PM - Re: safety-trim mounting locations (Ben Westfall)
41. 11:18 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Leak (Phillips, Jack)
Message 1
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Les, I've had good luck with that brand of tools. Here's a doc with some good info about different crimp tools and how to use them: http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Connector_Service_Manual.pdf
Marc
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166102#166102
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield scratches |
After seeing a couple of posts about people saying that
this is a job left for the experts, I'd like to add
a counter opinion. Using the kit linked below, removing
scratches that are minor shouldn't concern anyone...it's
very simple to do and do right, and the compounds aren't
very aggressive.
I first saw them at OSH, and although was skeptical, I
actually got to watch them do a piece of window. It
amazed me a bit, so I bought a kit to use on my old
plane that had some sort of overspray feeling to the
plexi, and had scratches. It all polished right out
with no issues. So I didn't hesitate at all when my
-10 was done to use it on those windows to get rid of
any marks that were left. You get progressively
finer compounds to use, and on the -10 I only had to
use the 1 or 2 finest ones. I plan to try it by
hand this summer to get rid of some scratches left
by sun shields at OSH. And then I plan to be more
careful at OSH when using sunshields.
Using this kit is pretty simple.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I've used this kit before, on a couple different planes, and it
> worked miracles.
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
>
> It's called "Scratch Off".
>
> I used it on all of my windows when I got done, to get rid of
> any scratches I caused during construction.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>> Help! Scratches on windshield.............
>> Wanted to clean off the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just
>> about put as many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any
>> advice appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered
>> if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they could
>> recommend....PLEASE! Ugh.
>> John J
>> (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield scratches |
Second that, Tim.
We bought a 152 for my daughter's flight school that had a windshield
that had been mistreated. On our first try with Micromesh it came out
just fine, even though the whole windshield needed doing. Since then
(~1990) we've used it for smaller jobs a couple times with excellent
results.
Marlys and John 40458
On Feb 25, 2008, at 8:24 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> After seeing a couple of posts about people saying that
> this is a job left for the experts, I'd like to add
> a counter opinion. Using the kit linked below, removing
> scratches that are minor shouldn't concern anyone...it's
> very simple to do and do right, and the compounds aren't
> very aggressive.
>
> I first saw them at OSH, and although was skeptical, I
> actually got to watch them do a piece of window. It
> amazed me a bit, so I bought a kit to use on my old
> plane that had some sort of overspray feeling to the
> plexi, and had scratches. It all polished right out
> with no issues. So I didn't hesitate at all when my
> -10 was done to use it on those windows to get rid of
> any marks that were left. You get progressively
> finer compounds to use, and on the -10 I only had to
> use the 1 or 2 finest ones. I plan to try it by
> hand this summer to get rid of some scratches left
> by sun shields at OSH. And then I plan to be more
> careful at OSH when using sunshields.
>
> Using this kit is pretty simple.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I've used this kit before, on a couple different planes, and it
>> worked miracles.
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
>> It's called "Scratch Off".
>> I used it on all of my windows when I got done, to get rid of
>> any scratches I caused during construction.
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> John Jessen wrote:
>>> Help! Scratches on windshield............. Wanted to clean off
>>> the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just about put as
>>> many scratches on the windshield that I could do. Any advice
>>> appreciated. I've looked up some products on ACS, but wondered
>>> if anyone had had such a problem and found a solution that they
>>> could recommend....PLEASE! Ugh. John J
>>> (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)
>>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield scratches |
Yeah, I hate to discourage the do-it-yourself-ers when it's a job
that isn't too hard to do at all. I mean, to me, it was really
a simple process...and many many things during the build were
far more challenging...this one took almost no thinking.'
I'm just that way about everything though...this weekend I
decided to take Harbor Freight up on their sale prices for carpet
tools and lay carpet as a D-I-Y job. Last week it was drywall
and texture (which my skills are getting better at, after
painting the plane. ;) ) There is just so much to be
saved, and tons to be learned by doing some things yourself.
BTW: For those who like browsing harbor freight, it seems
that air powered body saw has been consistently at $19.99
on sale for a while...perfect for cutting leading edge light
holes and lots of other things. I keep finding more and more
stuff to buy there as time goes on. Wish I could still
get their bandsaw...I could really use one at home now
that mine is at the hangar.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Second that, Tim.
> We bought a 152 for my daughter's flight school that had a windshield
> that had been mistreated. On our first try with Micromesh it came out
> just fine, even though the whole windshield needed doing. Since then
> (~1990) we've used it for smaller jobs a couple times with excellent
> results.
> Marlys and John 40458
>
Message 5
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Dear List,
I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
"Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this is
the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
C.S Prop I (O) - 540
That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
Thanks in advance,
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Windshield scratches |
I had a scratch on my RV-10 windscreen on the inside about 4 inches long in
a curved portion of the window (slap anyone who tries to put their headset
s on the glareshield) that was really difficult to get to. Wish I had left
it to the experts. At the end of the day I got rid of the scratch OK but
ended up with a distortion I couldn't live with - not one of my better mone
mts. Ended up replacing the windscreen - you can imagine how much fun that
was. Had the plane been painted I would have really been up a creek. Mark
RV-10/N410MR <html><div></div>
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:24:00 -0600> From: Tim@MyRV10.com> To: rv10-lis
t@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield scratches> > --> RV10-L
ist message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>> > After seeing a couple
of posts about people saying that> this is a job left for the experts, I'd
like to add> a counter opinion. Using the kit linked below, removing> scrat
ches that are minor shouldn't concern anyone...it's> very simple to do and
do right, and the compounds aren't> very aggressive.> > I first saw them at
OSH, and although was skeptical, I> actually got to watch them do a piece
of window. It> amazed me a bit, so I bought a kit to use on my old> plane t
hat had some sort of overspray feeling to the> plexi, and had scratches. It
all polished right out> with no issues. So I didn't hesitate at all when m
y> -10 was done to use it on those windows to get rid of> any marks that we
re left. You get progressively> finer compounds to use, and on the -10 I on
ly had to> use the 1 or 2 finest ones. I plan to try it by> hand this summe
r to get rid of some scratches left> by sun shields at OSH. And then I plan
to be more> careful at OSH when using sunshields.> > Using this kit is pre
tty simple.> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying> do not archive> > > Tim O
> > > I've used this kit before, on a couple different planes, and it> > w
orked miracles.> > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff
.php> > > > It's called "Scratch Off".> > > > I used it on all of my window
s when I got done, to get rid of> > any scratches I caused during construct
ion.> > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying> > > > > > > > John Jessen wr
ote:> >> Help! Scratches on windshield............. > >> Wanted to clean of
f the bugs and, using a nylon encased sponge, just > >> about put as many s
cratches on the windshield that I could do. Any > >> advice appreciated. I'
ve looked up some products on ACS, but wondered > >> if anyone had had such
a problem and found a solution that they could > >> recommend....PLEASE! U
gh. > >> John J> >> (on the GlaStar, not the unfinished -10)> >>> > > > > >
==> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo
ur "fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
Message 7
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| Subject: | Windshield scratches |
Thanks to everyone for your posts on windshield scratches. I will order the
Micromesh and have at it. I'll take pictures of the tools that made the
scratches, the actual scratches, the tools assembled to get rid of them, and
document the process. If I'm successful, I'll post everything on my site
and send it on to Tim so it can be placed in a convenient location for
future reference. Knowing Tim, there's probably something on the topic on
his site already.
If I have to replace the windshield, I'll take pictures of Hell's canyon
just before the leap.
You know, I just never thought that the windshield I'm zooming through the
air behind (well, relative zooming) would be this soft. Another lesson...
John J
40328
Message 8
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That's the one I got!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 12:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
Dear List,
I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
"Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this is
the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
C.S Prop I (O) - 540
That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
Thanks in advance,
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 9
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the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you ask
me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2 blade
may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> Dear List,
> I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this is
> the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
>
> C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> C.S Prop I (O) - 540
>
> That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 10
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Following my reading of the ARC final report published by the FAA. I
sent off an e-mail to several addresses within the EAA, similar to the
one I posted on this forum. My objective was to voice my disappointment
with how I perceived I had been represented in this effort. I'm happy to
report that today, I've been in receipt of several encouraging e-mails
from Earl Lawrence the EAA's regulatory affairs officer. Earl was the
EAA rep on the committee and along with Van one of the co-chairs .
Through this dialog he has shared considerable additional information
and insight from the proceedings and most importantly has indicated a
pending EAA communications program/campaign which will address (but not
be limited to) the following 3 questions:
1. What the EAA proposed to the FAA as a co chair of the ARC ?
2. What is the EAA's position wrt Commercial Builders and the impact
they are having on our sport/hobby?
3. What the EAA recommends Amateur Builders do to continue to support
and lobby for our existing rights to continue to build, fly, and
maintain our aircraft ?
I'm encouraged that the EAA does in fact plan an active role in this
effort. And that they will involve the membership in the same.
Through this brief process, I've also learned / formed some additional
opinions that have given me cause to _increase_ my concern that the FAA
_might_ act in a way that could limit or restrict our existing
capabilities. (Yes, that means RV-10 builders) And as a result I'm
reminded that keeping silent and hoping for a favorable outcome is not
the best course. I simply care _too_ much about what I'm doing. As this
issues moves forward I would encourage each of you to find a way to
voice or record you desires. My experience in having the EAA hear my
voice was encouraging and rewarding.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Windshield scratches |
Your point is well taken. Care and protection of the windscreen leads
to years of trouble free enjoyment with continued clarity.
Bugs, ballpoint pens, clipboards, headsets and other sundry items leave
a lasting and less than enjoyable impression. There have been a few
novel headset hangers in some of the pictures that have drifted from
this list over the months. The Repairman's cap needs to be on while we
are wearing the Builder cap. It can substantially reduce the post
production repairs list.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:30 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windshield scratches
I had a scratch on my RV-10 windscreen on the inside about 4 inches long
in a curved portion of the window (slap anyone who tries to put their
headsets on the glareshield) that was really difficult to get to. Wish
I had left it to the experts. At the end of the day I got rid of the
scratch OK but ended up with a distortion I couldn't live with - not one
of my better monemts. Ended up replacing the windscreen - you can
imagine how much fun that was. Had the plane been painted I would have
really been up a creek.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
Message 12
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The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for a couple
knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give you improved climb
and top speed. The three blade will also be a little smoother but a well
balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the money the two blade is hard
to beat. That being said, I'm going with a 3 blade MT because I'll be coming
off a grass strip most of the time and any improvement in climb performance
is worth the extra expense and effort.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you ask
me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2 blade
may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> Dear List,
> I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this is
> the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
>
> C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> C.S Prop I (O) - 540
>
> That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 13
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Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero
composite climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade
blended Hartzell at altitude. But you are going with the less expensive
MT with great climb performance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade
Hartzell once at cruise level.
Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those
prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no
object, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at
Mark Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you
saying an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?
These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which
Jim Ayers found scarce)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for
a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give
you improved climb and top speed. The three blade will also be a little
smoother but a well balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the
money the two blade is hard to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time and
any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra expense and
effort.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
ask
me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
blade
may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> Dear List,
> I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this
is
> the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
>
> C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> C.S Prop I (O) - 540
>
> That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fitting the cowl tips and the 1/4 turn fastner |
Fitting the cowl..
some of this is cart before horse but I tried to keep it in some semblance of order
I hope to help others who have not come this far...I have spent the last three
weeks getting the cowl to fit properly...maybe I'm being to anal but this is a
very cosmetic piece so I hope to help everyone achieve the same fit, maybe you
already have. First off I am using mil spec 1/4 turn fasteners on the cowl sides,
and along the top cowl firewall side. They are spaced at 4 inches around
the firewall, 3.5" at the top to bottom cowl seam. I used hinges along the firewall
the firewall for the cowl sides, only because I had already mounted the
hinges prior to bolting on the engine mount.
TIP #1 if you are mounting ether hinges or flanges for 1/4 turn fasteners, do so
prior to mounting the engine mount...not enough readily accessible space to
buck the rivet prior to installing the mount.
OK....I can not emphasis this point. You need to get the forward part of the cowl
fitted first...the inlets, the spinner diameter all that stuff you need to
get right first. You may need to trim the top cowl to allow getting the nose ring
to fit and the bottom to slide up over the top. The bottom cowl over laps
the top cowl on the sides. Sand and make a very straight line on the bottom cowl
now....it will be the guide for marking and cutting the top cowl when that
time comes and the material seemed thin on the very edge, you will need to straight,
blunt edge. Fit your top cowl as best as you can before even bringing the
bottom cowl, left right, up down get the top as close to perfect before going
any further, including the spinner gap. Get two sanding bars/blocks. I used
a 12" and a 30" The 30 was fitted with 80 grit paper and the 12 has a coarse
Carborundum metal backed abrasive plate. The edges sand very easily...too easily
if you get aggressive. Once you mount the cowl bottom to the top on the aircraft
you will notice that the back over hangs the firewall quite a bit. Trim
the bottom to allow it to fit flush with the bottom. Beware of the flange interfering
with the flush fit. I had to cut a portion of my bottom mounting flange
back about 3/8, just make sure it does not hit the honeycomb. The masking tape
method previously posted worked well for cutting the initial line on the top,
bottom and sides. I still did not end up with a perfect flat nose ring once
the cowl was fitted. To fix that I shorted the cowl about 3/16 to allow me to
build up the nose ring with micro/epoxy. Then sand it for a perfect gap. Me engine
has been mounted for 6 months so I don't fear sag to much at this point.
OK...1/4 turn fasteners. I recommend using .063 for the flanges. Make sure they
are at least 1-5/8 wide...Once you scallop the flange, it bends fairly easily
into position. The reason I don't recommend anything lighter is the holes that
must be made to mount the receptacle. The receptacles are mounted with -4 rivets,
which just barely make edge distance from the middle receptacle hole...that
hole is 11/16. The distance for the edge of that hole is very close to the
edge of the flange, so don't go with too thin of a flange. I had all my flanges
clecoed in place for fitting the cowl. Once the cowl was fit very tightly to
the firewall I drilled all the fastener locations with a #40 and clecoed, checking
fit after each hole. Did the bottom first, using #8 screws there but drilled
and clecoed non the less. Then did the top cowl, firewall side then taped
and strapped the two halves to mark the side cuts. Marked the top cowl using
the bottom as a guide and cut near the line then sanded to the line with the
long sanding block. Made up the side flanges with 1" -3 rivet spacing, matched
drilled them to the bottom cowl, clecoed and reinstalled the cowl...side seam
was perfect but tight, that's a good thing. Now I drilled the top cowl/side flanges
while the assembly was secured to the aircraft with tape, straps and the
neighbors small kid who worked underneath :). The trick is to get that whole
shebang drilled and clecoed to the flanges. OK...tip coming! remove your flanges
(mark them) then go over to your trusty drill press because your gonna drill
a boat load of holes. Open the #40's to #30 and use the drill jig provided
by Milspec to drill the rivet holes for the receptacles. Then open the center
receptacle holes with a unibit to 11/16" that's a big hole and lot of chips. Then
countersink the rivet holes for a flush -4.
TIP!!! prime and install the receptacles now, don't wait till the strips are riveted
to the aircraft. Once the receptacles are on, run them in on a best guess
depth, use one of the fasteners to get close, all of mine were to shallow. Do
this before mounting the strip...just by attaching to the cowl while it's on
the bench. Then rivet the flanges to the aircraft, mount your cowl and see how
it all fits..you will have to adjust (read bend down) each scallop to allow
the outer edge of the cowl to fit flush...actually do it as soon as you do your
first fitting of the flanges and cowl.Then final adjust your depths. I used
the snap ring tool and the pliers from Milspec...right tool, right job...they
worked perfect. Don't skimp on the clecos...use them in every hole.
Final fitting...now that everything is installed with the fasteners, I removed
the cowls and using masking tape as a guide (OK, anal here 3/64" material showing
to be trimmed off, maybe a little more) I removed the small amount of material
from all the edges to allow for that small line that will be occupied by
paint. By waiting to do the final trimming now, you just push each part to the
firewall snug each and every time during the fitting process.
Would I use them again? Yup...Cons..they ain't cheap, took me about 60 hours to
totally fit the cowl and install the fasteners, not including the oil door, louvers
etc.. Once finished I am going to remove the metal grommets in prep for
paint.
Put your power tools up high and ignore them while doing this, the one exception
is the Dremel, I used it to cut all of my cowl exclusively with there quick
change made for plastic cut off wheels. Easy to control and very straight smooth
cut. I hope I helped all of you thinking about this method. Thanks to pics
of Vic Syaracuse, Randy's RV-3 works and a close examination of Wayne Edgerton's
for helping me through this whole thing. Now on to the wheel pants & fairings...they
are easy right?
Rick Sked
40185
Message 15
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I am rigging the elevator and cannot get enough movement to go from stop to
stop. It is hitting on the front ball joint shank in one direction and the
lower ball joint under the battery. I do have the minimum movement in each
direction but I don't like that the movement is limited by the control
mechanism instead of the stops.
Any one else have this problem? Better yet anyone have a solution?
Gary
40274
Message 16
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Thanks everyone,
I resolved some time ago the two blade / three blade decision for my
build.
I was mostly interested in making sure I was not accidently approving
the BA with the left handed countersunk under-plate with an internal
reverse flange.
I see Tim's prop code was SLIGHTLY different than mine:
Tim (from his site) C2YR-1BF/F8068D
Mine C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
ask
me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
blade
may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> Dear List,
> I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this
is
> the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
>
> C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> C.S Prop I (O) - 540
>
> That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 17
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Don't forget the 2 blade Aerocomposits Prop. It gives the better climb and
top end speed and weighs less than the Hartzell. According to them. I have
yet to start the engine.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero
composite climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade
blended Hartzell at altitude. But you are going with the less expensive
MT with great climb performance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade
Hartzell once at cruise level.
Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those
prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no
object, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at
Mark Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you
saying an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?
These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which
Jim Ayers found scarce)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for
a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give
you improved climb and top speed. The three blade will also be a little
smoother but a well balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the
money the two blade is hard to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time and
any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra expense and
effort.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
ask
me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
blade
may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> Dear List,
> I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this
is
> the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
>
> C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> C.S Prop I (O) - 540
>
> That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 18
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|
My last girl friend was slow but man was she a looker. I seldom notice or
fret about knowing I could be going a couple of knots faster if I had a tw
o blade prop. Not really convinced either prop (2 blade v. 3 blade) has th
at much of an advantage over the other so what it boils down to is the extr
a money worth the perceived (in my mind) sex appeal of a three blade prop.
I've gotten over the inferiority feeling of not having macho retractable g
ear.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR <html><div></div>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:33:26 -0800> F
rom: johnwcox@pacificnw.com> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> > Okay Mike, do I
read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero> composite climbs
better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade> blended Hartzell at al
titude. But you are going with the less expensive> MT with great climb perf
ormance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade> Hartzell once at cruise level
.> > Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those>
prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no> ob
ject, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at> Mark
Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you> sayin
g an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?> > These 2 blade Hartzell types a
re a hard group to sell to.> > John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but lo
oking for hard data (which> Jim Ayers found scarce)> > -----Original Messag
e-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list
-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder> (Michael Sausen)> Sent: Mon
day, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RE:
Sausen)"> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>> > The three blade MT will get you a litt
le better climb in exchange for> a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocom
posite supposedly will give> you improved climb and top speed. The three bl
ade will also be a little> smoother but a well balanced two blade will be v
ery nice also. For the> money the two blade is hard to beat. That being sai
d, I'm going with a> 3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip mo
st of the time and> any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra
expense and> effort.> > Michael> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner
-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.c
om] On Behalf Of Pascal> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM> To: rv10-
list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop> > --> RV10-List messag
e posted by: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>> > the please confirm is a
new thing for Van's in 2008.> If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the
3 blade is better, if you> ask> me I'll tell you the three blade looks bett
er, but so does the Aero> composite at twice the price.. in the end it's al
l about money, the 2> blade> may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure
works well..> Pascal> ----- Original Message -----> From: "Robin Marks" <r
obin1@mrmoisture.com>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Monday, Februar
y 25, 2008 10:23 AM> Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop> > > > --> RV10-List messa
ge posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>> >> > Dear List,> > I h
ave placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a> > "Please conf
irm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this> is> > the prop I
am requesting for my IO-540.> >> > C2YR-1BFP/F8068D> > C.S Prop I (O) - 54
0> >> > That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?> >> > Thanks in adv
ance,> > Robin> > Do Not Archive> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > >
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
ive.
Message 19
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Don't forget the extra hassle of getting the lower cowl off.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 4:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
My last girl friend was slow but man was she a looker. I seldom notice or
fret about knowing I could be going a couple of knots faster if I had a two
blade prop. Not really convinced either prop (2 blade v. 3 blade) has that
much of an advantage over the other so what it boils down to is the extra
money worth the perceived (in my mind) sex appeal of a three blade prop.
I've gotten over the inferiority feeling of not having macho retractable
gear.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
_____
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:33:26 -0800
> From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero
> composite climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade
> blended Hartzell at altitude. But you are going with the less expensive
> MT with great climb performance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade
> Hartzell once at cruise level.
>
> Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those
> prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no
> object, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at
> Mark Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you
> saying an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?
>
> These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
>
> John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which
> Jim Ayers found scarce)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for
> a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give
> you improved climb and top speed. The three blade will also be a little
> smoother but a well balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the
> money the two blade is hard to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
> 3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time and
> any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra expense and
> effort.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
> the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
> If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
> ask
> me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
> composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
> blade
> may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
> >
> > Dear List,
> > I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> > "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this
> is
> > the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
> >
> > C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> > C.S Prop I (O) - 540
> >
> > That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Robin
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_____
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we
give. Learn more.
Message 20
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|
After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with the stra
iner that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is leaking around
the flange inside the tank and coming out around the opening for the fittin
g. They are QB wings so I can't take credit for not properly prosealing th
e flange to the fuel tank rib. With no access to the inside of the tank I'
m trying to come up with a fix short of removing the tank. First two attem
pts to come up with a fix failed. The third attempt appears to be working
knock on wood. I'm getting really good at taking the wing root fairing on
and off.
The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is not plea
sant.
TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the proseal aro
und the flange that is riveted to the rib.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
ive.
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Unusual paint ridge around windows |
I have had an unusual situation with the door windows when painting and want
to see if anyone else has seen a similar problem.
After painting the doors a small ridge developed above the
Plexiglas-fiberglass joint - it is about 1/4 wide and 1/16 high. The area
was level and smooth after priming. I used the Weld On 10 and put a thin
layer of fiberglass over the seam. I then primed with UV SmoothPrime and
primed over that with the Dupont high build primer. All looked good until we
painted the final color and clear coat (Imron). It seems like some kind of
chemical reaction.
Anyone else seen this? Any ideas? Suggestions on how to best fix and avoid
this on the other windows?
I have attached a few photos - a little hard to see the ridge.
Thanks for you input.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting in sections and LOTS of little stuff
9:35 PM
Message 22
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LOL. "If you want to be happy for the rest of your life, get a #$%^
women to be your wife". In 35 years I have never once hear anyone say 2
blades were sexy and keep a straight face. There is something magical
about a blade for every combustion event rather than a lopey vibration
which roles through the airframe.
At work its six blades wins over four blades every day. Then some two
blade driver says "yeh, but when you screw up and the engine stops, boy
its more fun going down." Like Bob Hoover has always said - "Fly the
aircraft down to the final landing site and walk away".
I take it Mark your not biting on the 3 blade AeroComp cruise up with
the 2 blade metal heads. Like Jimmy Carter said " I have lust in my
heart for that Looker."
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
My last girl friend was slow but man was she a looker. I seldom notice
or fret about knowing I could be going a couple of knots faster if I had
a two blade prop. Not really convinced either prop (2 blade v. 3 blade)
has that much of an advantage over the other so what it boils down to is
the extra money worth the perceived (in my mind) sex appeal of a three
blade prop. I've gotten over the inferiority feeling of not having
macho retractable gear.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
________________________________
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:33:26 -0800
> From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade
Aero
> composite climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade
> blended Hartzell at altitude. But you are going with the less
expensive
> MT with great climb performance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade
> Hartzell once at cruise level.
>
> Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those
> prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no
> object, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look
at
> Mark Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are
you
> saying an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?
>
> These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
>
> John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which
> Jim Ayers found scarce)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for
> a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give
> you improved climb and top speed. The three blade will also be a
little
> smoother but a well balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the
> money the two blade is hard to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
> 3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time
and
> any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra expense and
> effort.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
> the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
> If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
> ask
> me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
> composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
> blade
> may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
<robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> >
> > Dear List,
> > I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> > "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that
this
> is
> > the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
> >
> > C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> > C.S Prop I (O) - 540
> >
> > That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Robin
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we
give. Learn more.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on
my QB tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of replacing
and repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak (the third
discovered on this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any suggestion
short of opening an access hole?
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
>
> After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with
> the strainer that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is
> leaking around the flange inside the tank and coming out around the
> opening for the fitting. They are QB wings so I can't take credit
> for not properly prosealing the flange to the fuel tank rib. With
> no access to the inside of the tank I'm trying to come up with a fix
> short of removing the tank. First two attempts to come up with a
> fix failed. The third attempt appears to be working knock on wood.
> I'm getting really good at taking the wing root fairing on and off.
>
> The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is
> not pleasant.
>
> TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the
> proseal around the flange that is riveted to the rib.
>
> Mark
> RV-10/N410MR
>
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM,
> we givein' target='_new'>Learn more.
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Stops |
Gary, we also had a problem with the elevator rigging. It has been quite a while,
so I will attempt to recall as best as I can. Our problem was the elevator
horn would not bump against the aft stop. The bottom of the elevator horn seemed
as if it could be 'forced' past the stop and become jammed.
We ended up building up the stop with an extra bar of .125 aluminum and a piece
of 1x1 angle. When we asked Vans, they had never seen this problem before, we
double checked everything, and they gave the thumbs up to the fix. To tell
if you are having the same problem as we had, take a look at the elevator horn
when the elevator is in the full nose up deflection. If it seems as if the elevator
horn could go past the stop let me know and I will send you pictures of
our fix off line.
Thanks, Jason #40617 - Finishing
speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I am rigging the elevator and cannot get enough movement to go from stop to
> stop. It is hitting on the front ball joint shank in one direction and the
> lower ball joint under the battery. I do have the minimum movement in each
> direction but I don't like that the movement is limited by the control
> mechanism instead of the stops.
>
> Any one else have this problem? Better yet anyone have a solution?
>
> Gary
> 40274
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166197#166197
Message 25
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So in essence, what you are saying is that you were faster than your last g
irlfriend. You may have gotten over the retractable gear issue, but what ab
out the the real issue? Any inferiority there..
So 2 or 3 blade? Porche or Prius
Do Not Archive
From: mritter509@msn.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List:
BA PropDate: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 15:38:29 -0600
My last girl friend was slow but man was she a looker. I seldom notice or
fret about knowing I could be going a couple of knots faster if I had a tw
o blade prop. Not really convinced either prop (2 blade v. 3 blade) has th
at much of an advantage over the other so what it boils down to is the extr
a money worth the perceived (in my mind) sex appeal of a three blade prop.
I've gotten over the inferiority feeling of not having macho retractable g
ear. MarkRV-10/N410MR <html><div></div>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:33:26 -0800> F
rom: johnwcox@pacificnw.com> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> > Okay Mike, do I
read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero> composite climbs
better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade> blended Hartzell at al
titude. But you are going with the less expensive> MT with great climb perf
ormance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade> Hartzell once at cruise level
.> > Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those>
prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no> ob
ject, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at> Mark
Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you> sayin
g an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?> > These 2 blade Hartzell types a
re a hard group to sell to.> > John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but lo
oking for hard data (which> Jim Ayers found scarce)> > -----Original Messag
e-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list
-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder> (Michael Sausen)> Sent: Mon
day, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: RE:
Sausen)"> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>> > The three blade MT will get you a litt
le better climb in exchange for> a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocom
posite supposedly will give> you improved climb and top speed. The three bl
ade will also be a little> smoother but a well balanced two blade will be v
ery nice also. For the> money the two blade is hard to beat. That being sai
d, I'm going with a> 3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip mo
st of the time and> any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra
expense and> effort.> > Michael> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner
-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.c
om] On Behalf Of Pascal> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM> To: rv10-
list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop> > --> RV10-List messag
e posted by: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>> > the please confirm is a
new thing for Van's in 2008.> If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the
3 blade is better, if you> ask> me I'll tell you the three blade looks bett
er, but so does the Aero> composite at twice the price.. in the end it's al
l about money, the 2> blade> may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure
works well..> Pascal> ----- Original Message -----> From: "Robin Marks" <r
obin1@mrmoisture.com>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Monday, Februar
y 25, 2008 10:23 AM> Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop> > > > --> RV10-List messa
ge posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>> >> > Dear List,> > I h
ave placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a> > "Please conf
irm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this> is> > the prop I
am requesting for my IO-540.> >> > C2YR-1BFP/F8068D> > C.S Prop I (O) - 54
0> >> > That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?> >> > Thanks in adv
ance,> > Robin> > Do Not Archive> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > >
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we giv
e. Learn more.
Message 26
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I once bit on a 4-bladed, scimitar'd Commander. Had to be dragged away from
it. New paint and all. Great looking legs that retracted.... But slow and
could barely lift a full grown man with full fuel. But what a looker. Oh,
my.
Do not archive!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
So in essence, what you are saying is that you were faster than your last
girlfriend. You may have gotten over the retractable gear issue, but what
about the the real issue? Any inferiority there..
So 2 or 3 blade? Porche or Prius
Do Not Archive
_____
From: mritter509@msn.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
My last girl friend was slow but man was she a looker. I seldom notice or
fret about knowing I could be going a couple of knots faster if I had a two
blade prop. Not really convinced either prop (2 blade v. 3 blade) has that
much of an advantage over the other so what it boils down to is the extra
money worth the perceived (in my mind) sex appeal of a three blade prop.
I've gotten over the inferiority feeling of not having macho retractable
gear.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
_____
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:33:26 -0800
> From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero
> composite climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade
> blended Hartzell at altitude. But you are going with the less expensive
> MT with great climb performance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade
> Hartzell once at cruise level.
>
> Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those
> prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no
> object, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at
> Mark Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you
> saying an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?
>
> These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
>
> John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which
> Jim Ayers found scarce)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for
> a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give
> you improved climb and top speed. The three blade will also be a little
> smoother but a well balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the
> money the two blade is hard to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
> 3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time and
> any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra expense and
> effort.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
> the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
> If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
> ask
> me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
> composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
> blade
> may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
> >
> > Dear List,
> > I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> > "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this
> is
> > the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
> >
> > C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> > C.S Prop I (O) - 540
> >
> > That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Robin
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_____
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we
give. Learn more.
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 27
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Viagra, for prop envy. Last longer around sexy aircraft. I have heard
it all.
John C.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
So in essence, what you are saying is that you were faster than your
last girlfriend. You may have gotten over the retractable gear issue,
but what about the the real issue? Any inferiority there..
So 2 or 3 blade? Porche or Prius
Do Not Archive
________________________________
From: mritter509@msn.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
My last girl friend was slow but man was she a looker. I seldom notice
or fret about knowing I could be going a couple of knots faster if I had
a two blade prop. Not really convinced either prop (2 blade v. 3 blade)
has that much of an advantage over the other so what it boils down to is
the extra money worth the perceived (in my mind) sex appeal of a three
blade prop. I've gotten over the inferiority feeling of not having
macho retractable gear.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
________________________________
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:33:26 -0800
> From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade
Aero
> composite climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade
> blended Hartzell at altitude. But you are going with the less
expensive
> MT with great climb performance and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade
> Hartzell once at cruise level.
>
> Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those
> prideful 2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no
> object, it would clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look
at
> Mark Ritter's, Wayne Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are
you
> saying an AeroComp out performs Jim Ayer's MT?
>
> These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
>
> John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which
> Jim Ayers found scarce)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for
> a couple knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give
> you improved climb and top speed. The three blade will also be a
little
> smoother but a well balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the
> money the two blade is hard to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
> 3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time
and
> any improvement in climb performance is worth the extra expense and
> effort.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
> the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
> If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you
> ask
> me I'll tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero
> composite at twice the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2
> blade
> may not be the nicest looking prop but it sure works well..
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
>
<robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> >
> > Dear List,
> > I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a
> > "Please confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that
this
> is
> > the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
> >
> > C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> > C.S Prop I (O) - 540
> >
> > That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Robin
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we
give. Learn more.
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 28
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I'm lucky in a way in that I can see the leak by removing the wing root fai
ring. I put two flat washers over the strainer and on to the fitting. I pu
t a liberal amount of proseal around the washers which I hoped would push t
he proseal into the opening around the hole in the fuel tank rib when I tig
hten the fitting. The washers also might help in tightening up the flange
in the tank against the rib. If it starts leaking again I'm going to try t
hinning out some proseal with MEK and suck it into the hole using a suction
pump on the fuel vent.
After that I'm out of ideas and will have to remove the tank to cut an acce
ss hole so I can get to the flange. A paint cutter (The Yard Store) works
fairly well around the screws to keep the damage to the paint at a minimum.
A friend with a fuel tank leak used the cutter around the screws of his p
ainted RV-7 and it looks OK - not great but OK.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
From: flysrv10@gmail.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-List:
Fuel Tank LeakDate: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:32:14 -0500You did not say how you
fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on my QB tank and Van has sent me
a new tank but the thought of replacing and repainting the tank has stoppe
d me short. My leak (the third discovered on this tank) is at the outboard
panel. Any suggestion short of opening an access hole?
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with the stra
iner that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is leaking around
the flange inside the tank and coming out around the opening for the fittin
g. They are QB wings so I can't take credit for not properly prosealing th
e flange to the fuel tank rib. With no access to the inside of the tank I'
m trying to come up with a fix short of removing the tank. First two attem
pts to come up with a fix failed. The third attempt appears to be working
knock on wood. I'm getting really good at taking the wing root fairing on
and off. The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is
not pleasant. TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare
the proseal around the flange that is riveted to the rib. MarkRV-10/N410M
R <html><div></div>
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we giv
ein' target='_new'>Learn more.http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis
t
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo
ur "fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
they sent you a new tank?? wow, I thought they were handing out 4 inch
"access panels".
Never understood the logic of repairing a pinhole sized leak with a 4
inch access panel.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Leak
You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on
my QB tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of replacing
and repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak (the third
discovered on this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any suggestion short
of opening an access hole?
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with
the strainer that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is
leaking around the flange inside the tank and coming out around the
opening for the fitting. They are QB wings so I can't take credit for
not properly prosealing the flange to the fuel tank rib. With no access
to the inside of the tank I'm trying to come up with a fix short of
removing the tank. First two attempts to come up with a fix failed.
The third attempt appears to be working knock on wood. I'm getting
really good at taking the wing root fairing on and off.
The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is
not pleasant.
TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the
proseal around the flange that is riveted to the rib.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM,
we givein' target='_new'>Learn more.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
Message 30
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Well you know some guys....two things to hand prop aren't enough. ;-p
On Mon, Feb 25, 2008 at 4:19 PM, John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
>
>
> Viagra, for prop envy. Last longer around sexy aircraft. I have heard it
> all.
>
>
> John C.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Consider that likely the replacement tank was built by Van's staff
rather than in the Philippines. Might just be a bit better
construction.
On Mon, Feb 25, 2008 at 3:32 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
> You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on my QB
> tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of replacing and
> repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak (the third discovered on
> this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any suggestion short of opening an
> access hole?
>
> Rob.
>
Message 32
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I did say supposedly. ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
Okay Mike, do I read this correct, you say a custom painted 3 blade Aero composite
climbs better and will cruise comparably with the 2 blade blended Hartzell
at altitude. But you are going with the less expensive MT with great climb performance
and slight tradeoff over the 2 blade Hartzell once at cruise level.
Do tell me which RV-10s with 3 blade AeroComp are cruising with those prideful
2 blades cause looks alone won't win my wife. If price was no object, it would
clearly be a 3 blade AeroComp for me. Just one look at Mark Ritter's, Wayne
Edgerton or Deems become the selling point. Are you saying an AeroComp out performs
Jim Ayer's MT?
These 2 blade Hartzell types are a hard group to sell to.
John - dreams of the 3 blade AeroComp but looking for hard data (which Jim Ayers
found scarce)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: BA Prop
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
The three blade MT will get you a little better climb in exchange for a couple
knots on the top end. The Aerocomposite supposedly will give you improved climb
and top speed. The three blade will also be a little smoother but a well
balanced two blade will be very nice also. For the money the two blade is hard
to beat. That being said, I'm going with a
3 blade MT because I'll be coming off a grass strip most of the time and any improvement
in climb performance is worth the extra expense and effort.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: BA Prop
the please confirm is a new thing for Van's in 2008.
If you ask the MT crowd they'll tell you the 3 blade is better, if you ask me I'll
tell you the three blade looks better, but so does the Aero composite at twice
the price.. in the end it's all about money, the 2 blade may not be the nicest
looking prop but it sure works well..
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: BA Prop
>
> Dear List,
> I have placed my Vans order for the BA prop and they sent me a "Please
> confirm this order" letter to sign & return stating that this
is
> the prop I am requesting for my IO-540.
>
> C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
> C.S Prop I (O) - 540
>
> That looks like my best BA prop choice correct?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | safety-trim mounting locations |
Where are/have people been mounting the safety trim controller unit? What
factors influenced your decision?
THX
-Ben
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: safety-trim mounting locations |
Ben, I certainly want others to chime in, but some of our customers
have mounted the Safety-Trim controller to the wing spar under the front
seats, This certainly is a very short run of wire to the trim switch
wiring coming from the control sticks. We are mounting it in the rear
of the our RV-10 on an equipement tray behind the baggage area. We
have photo's of this on our web site. In our Glastar I mounted it up
under the instrument panel near the previously existing wiring.
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Thanks for the info.
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 6:54 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
> I'm lucky in a way in that I can see the leak by removing the wing
> root fairing. I put two flat washers over the strainer and on to the
> fitting. I put a liberal amount of proseal around the washers which
> I hoped would push the proseal into the opening around the hole in
> the fuel tank rib when I tighten the fitting. The washers also
> might help in tightening up the flange in the tank against the rib.
> If it starts leaking again I'm going to try thinning out some
> proseal with MEK and suck it into the hole using a suction pump on
> the fuel vent.
>
> After that I'm out of ideas and will have to remove the tank to cut
> an access hole so I can get to the flange. A paint cutter (The Yard
> Store) works fairly well around the screws to keep the damage to the
> paint at a minimum. A friend with a fuel tank leak used the cutter
> around the screws of his painted RV-7 and it looks OK - not great
> but OK.
>
> Mark
> RV-10/N410MR
>
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> From: flysrv10@gmail.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Leak
> Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:32:14 -0500
>
> You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on
> my QB tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of
> replacing and repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak
> (the third discovered on this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any
> suggestion short of opening an access hole?
>
> Rob.
>
> On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
>
>
> After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with
> the strainer that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is
> leaking around the flange inside the tank and coming out around the
> opening for the fitting. They are QB wings so I can't take credit
> for not properly prosealing the flange to the fuel tank rib. With
> no access to the inside of the tank I'm trying to come up with a fix
> short of removing the tank. First two attempts to come up with a
> fix failed. The third attempt appears to be working knock on wood.
> I'm getting really good at taking the wing root fairing on and off.
>
> The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is
> not pleasant.
>
> TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the
> proseal around the flange that is riveted to the rib.
>
> Mark
> RV-10/N410MR
>
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM,
> we givein' target='_new'>Learn more.
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>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Yes they did. However, my first leaks began on two rivets, then at
the fuel pick up area, and then at the outboard baffle. I had no
difficulty asking for a new tank.
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 7:00 PM, Pascal wrote:
> they sent you a new tank?? wow, I thought they were handing out 4
> inch "access panels".
>
> Never understood the logic of repairing a pinhole sized leak with a
> 4 inch access panel.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rob Kermanj
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:32 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Leak
>
> You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on
> my QB tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of
> replacing and repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak
> (the third discovered on this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any
> suggestion short of opening an access hole?
>
> Rob.
>
> On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
>
>>
>> After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with
>> the strainer that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is
>> leaking around the flange inside the tank and coming out around the
>> opening for the fitting. They are QB wings so I can't take credit
>> for not properly prosealing the flange to the fuel tank rib. With
>> no access to the inside of the tank I'm trying to come up with a
>> fix short of removing the tank. First two attempts to come up with
>> a fix failed. The third attempt appears to be working knock on
>> wood. I'm getting really good at taking the wing root fairing on
>> and off.
>>
>> The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is
>> not pleasant.
>>
>> TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the
>> proseal around the flange that is riveted to the rib.
>>
>> Mark
>> RV-10/N410MR
>>
>>
>> <html><div></div>
>>
>>
>> Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You
>> IM, we givein' target='_new'>Learn more.
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
Scott told me that it will be built here with the knowledge that it is
going to replace a tank for an unhappy customer. I am also very
pleased that we deal with such a great company that backs up their
product without question. They certainly make up for that rare
deficiencies that come up.
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 7:14 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Consider that likely the replacement tank was built by Van's staff
> rather than in the Philippines. Might just be a bit better
> construction.
>
> On Mon, Feb 25, 2008 at 3:32 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>> You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak
>> on my QB
>> tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of replacing and
>> repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak (the third
>> discovered on
>> this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any suggestion short of
>> opening an
>> access hole?
>>
>> Rob.
>>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Fitting the cowl tips and the 1/4 turn fastner |
Rick fantastic write up.
Valuable stuff indeed!
Any photos?
John 40315 (cowls)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, 26 February 2008 7:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fitting the cowl tips and the 1/4 turn fastner
Fitting the cowl........................
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak |
That makes sense,Always nice to hear how Van's stands by their product
when there is an obvious problem.
Thanks for explaining!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Leak
Yes they did. However, my first leaks began on two rivets, then at
the fuel pick up area, and then at the outboard baffle. I had no
difficulty asking for a new tank.
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 7:00 PM, Pascal wrote:
they sent you a new tank?? wow, I thought they were handing out 4
inch "access panels".
Never understood the logic of repairing a pinhole sized leak with a
4 inch access panel.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Leak
You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak
on my QB tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of
replacing and repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak (the
third discovered on this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any suggestion
short of opening an access hole?
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting
with the strainer that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is
leaking around the flange inside the tank and coming out around the
opening for the fitting. They are QB wings so I can't take credit for
not properly prosealing the flange to the fuel tank rib. With no access
to the inside of the tank I'm trying to come up with a fix short of
removing the tank. First two attempts to come up with a fix failed.
The third attempt appears to be working knock on wood. I'm getting
really good at taking the wing root fairing on and off.
The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws
is not pleasant.
TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the
proseal around the flange that is riveted to the rib.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
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Message 40
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| Subject: | safety-trim mounting locations |
I have looked at your install in the 10 on your site. The equipment tray is
a great idea and looks nice. I am concerned about the wiring for that
location. I am quickly finding out the reality that the conduit that goes
under the floors up to the front is prime real estate. There are quite a
few less wires running through the conduit to the tail if you mount it up
front. This might necessitate that I install it in the front half of the
plane.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: safety-trim mounting locations
Ben, I certainly want others to chime in, but some of our customers have
mounted the Safety-Trim controller to the wing spar under the front seats,
This certainly is a very short run of wire to the trim switch wiring coming
from the control sticks. We are mounting it in the rear of the our RV-10
on an equipement tray behind the baggage area. We have photo's of this on
our web site. In our Glastar I mounted it up under the instrument panel
near the previously existing wiring.
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 41
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Leaking QB Tanks? Y'all are making me happier and happier with my
economics-driven decision to go the slo-build route.
Jack Phillips
#610, Raleigh NC
Still waiting for my Slo-Build Wing Kit to Arrive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Leak
You did not say how you fixed it on the third try. I have a leak on my
QB tank and Van has sent me a new tank but the thought of replacing and
repainting the tank has stopped me short. My leak (the third discovered
on this tank) is at the outboard panel. Any suggestion short of opening
an access hole?
Rob.
On Feb 25, 2008, at 5:08 PM, Mark Ritter wrote:
After 190 hours a leak developed around the fuel line fitting with the
strainer that goes into the right tank. It appears the fuel is leaking
around the flange inside the tank and coming out around the opening for
the fitting. They are QB wings so I can't take credit for not properly
prosealing the flange to the fuel tank rib. With no access to the
inside of the tank I'm trying to come up with a fix short of removing
the tank. First two attempts to come up with a fix failed. The third
attempt appears to be working knock on wood. I'm getting really good at
taking the wing root fairing on and off.
The thought of messing up my paint job removing the tank screws is not
pleasant.
TIP - Those in the process of building the tank don't spare the proseal
around the flange that is riveted to the rib.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
<html><div></div>
_____
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