Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:25 AM - Re: safety-trim mounting locations (Tim Olson)
2. 10:29 AM - Re: Unusual paint ridge around windows (Dave Saylor)
3. 10:43 AM - Re: Moving Day (MauleDriver)
4. 12:37 PM - Re: Unusual paint ridge around windows (John Testement)
5. 01:11 PM - Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? (Chris Johnston)
6. 01:27 PM - Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? (Werner Schneider)
7. 01:37 PM - Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? (Tim Olson)
8. 01:47 PM - Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? (McGANN, Ron)
9. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar (Scott Schmidt)
10. 02:16 PM - Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? (John Gonzalez)
11. 02:55 PM - Re: Moving Day (bob.kaufmann)
12. 03:44 PM - Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? (linn Walters)
13. 04:33 PM - BA Prop Part II - Paint (Robin Marks)
14. 06:33 PM - Re: BA Prop Part II - Paint (groves@epix.net)
15. 09:14 PM - Re: Unusual paint ridge around windows (zackrv8)
16. 10:27 PM - Re: Unusual paint ridge around windows (Dave Saylor)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: safety-trim mounting locations |
I had my trim relays mounted under the panel lip edge....no big reason,
as they could have been under the seats I guess. So for me it
was easy splicing to just put it in under the radio stack. For some
of these lightweight plastic boxes, I've found the hard plastic
high strength velcro to be great...just slap on a slab and stick
it in place. It isn't as solid until you get it on there for a
day or two, but once the stickyback tightens up, that thing isn't
going anywhere....and it's easy to yank off again. Did the same
with my GRT Manifold pressure sensor, and my CO monitor. Just
the lightweight or plastic things....and nothing that can drop and
short out.
Tim
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I have looked at your install in the 10 on your site. The equipment
> tray is a great idea and looks nice. I am concerned about the wiring
> for that location. I am quickly finding out the reality that the
> conduit that goes under the floors up to the front is prime real estate.
> There are quite a few less wires running through the conduit to the
> tail if you mount it up front. This might necessitate that I install it
> in the front half of the plane.
>
>
>
> -Ben
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Unusual paint ridge around windows |
John,
The ridge looks like it's at the edge of the fiberglass. Is that right, or
is the edge of the fiberglass further from the plex? What type of resin did
you use to overlay the seam?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Unusual paint ridge around windows
I have had an unusual situation with the door windows when painting and want
to see if anyone else has seen a similar problem.
After painting the doors a small ridge developed above the
Plexiglas-fiberglass joint - it is about 1/4 wide and 1/16 high. The area
was level and smooth after priming. I used the Weld On 10 and put a thin
layer of fiberglass over the seam. I then primed with UV SmoothPrime and
primed over that with the Dupont high build primer. All looked good until we
painted the final color and clear coat (Imron). It seems like some kind of
chemical reaction.
Anyone else seen this? Any ideas? Suggestions on how to best fix and avoid
this on the other windows?
I have attached a few photos - a little hard to see the ridge.
Thanks for you input.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting in sections and LOTS of little stuff
2/23/2008 9:35 PM
Message 3
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|
I''ll fight for 2nd...er third I guess.
Chase Snodgrass wrote:
>
> If you're talking bias spring rudder trim, I'll fight to be first in line!!
>
> Chase Snodgrass
> Presidio, TX
> TWO simultaneous 40820/40821
> http;//flybigbend.com
>
> Do not archive
>
> On 2/20/08, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hey wait ! I resemble that remark! :-D
>>
>> Funny thing, I've been on the phone and e-mail for the last couple of
>> days with people who are working on 2 mods that I think every RV-10
>> builder will want. (I know I want them) Both of the designer/builders
>> monitor this forum, but are a little shy about throwing their creations
>> open to the scrutiny of this expert group. (They figured I was an easy
>> and low risk mark :-P ). Actually I'm hoping that this e-mail might put
>> some additional pressure on them :-X . And sniff them out.
>>
>> *_I PROMISE_* these will be the last two mods I make before the plane
>> flies !
>>
>>
>> (I've got one more that's in the works, but that one is Major and will
>> remain 'cloaked' until it's ready ) ---- don't you just LOVE the drama
>> !!!!!!
>>
>>
>> Gary, your bird looks terrific, I'm counting on you to shake out the OP
>> systems.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>> Neal George wrote:
>>
>>> Careful, Gary.
>>>
>>> You'll give Deems ideas for more mods...
>>>
>>> *
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Unusual paint ridge around windows |
Dave,
The ridge is just over the Weld On seam between the plexi and fiberglass.
Its as though the Weld On expanded when painted over. I used West System
epoxy.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Unusual paint ridge around windows
John,
The ridge looks like it's at the edge of the fiberglass. Is that right, or
is the edge of the fiberglass further from the plex? What type of resin did
you use to overlay the seam?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Unusual paint ridge around windows
I have had an unusual situation with the door windows when painting and want
to see if anyone else has seen a similar problem.
After painting the doors a small ridge developed above the
Plexiglas-fiberglass joint - it is about 1/4 wide and 1/16 high. The area
was level and smooth after priming. I used the Weld On 10 and put a thin
layer of fiberglass over the seam. I then primed with UV SmoothPrime and
primed over that with the Dupont high build primer. All looked good until we
painted the final color and clear coat (Imron). It seems like some kind of
chemical reaction.
Anyone else seen this? Any ideas? Suggestions on how to best fix and avoid
this on the other windows?
I have attached a few photos - a little hard to see the ridge.
Thanks for you input.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting in sections and LOTS of little stuff
2/23/2008 9:35 PM
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
9:35 PM
9:35 PM
Message 5
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Subject: | Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? |
Hey all -
I know someone around here has thought about filling the doors with an
expanding foam to give them some density and make 'em be less flimsy.
Anyone care to speculate if you'd split your door in two by doing this?
I was thinking something like this:
http://jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm
I called and spoke with John Greer there and tried to explain myself.
"uh, so, I'm building an airplane, and I was thinking..." you know how
those conversations go. I asked if he thought I'd blow up the door by
filling it with that stuff, and he said he didn't think so. After
thinking about it a bit, I think I agree. My reasoning: on his website
(and others with similar products) there's a picture of a paper cup with
some foam that has been poured and expanded in it. the foam expands
over the top, and creates a muffin-top type situation. the paper cup
retains it's shape, and doesn't split. So, think I, as long as you have
open space for the foam to expand, it's not going to split the door.
Now, this is all my hair-brained theory. The leap to filling my
already-fitting and built doors with something that could destroy them
gives me pause. The upside to doing this is that it seems like it'll
make the doors feel much less flimsy, not add too much weight, insulate
a bit, cut down on noise, etc. Downsides? possibly having to build new
doors. hmmm. I think I'm going to get some of this foam and do some
testing. While I'm on this voyage of discovery, anyone want to give
their opinion? A search of the archives only had one entry on the
subject, and it had not much detail.
cj
#40410
finishing/FF/various science projects
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? |
The paper cup is a different story as it can easely expand, if you have
a small and narrow channel the story might come out different!
I would be very carefull with that approach, for a short open space ok,
for a long (>3" and narrow (1" or less)) I would leave my fingers off,
and then there is the weight of UR foam.
as usuasl just my 5cents
Werner
Chris Johnston wrote:
> Hey all -
>
> I know someone around here has thought about filling the doors with an expanding
foam to give them some density and make 'em be less flimsy. Anyone care to
speculate if you'd split your door in two by doing this? I was thinking something
like this:
>
> http://jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm
>
> I called and spoke with John Greer there and tried to explain myself. "uh, so,
I'm building an airplane, and I was thinking..." you know how those conversations
go. I asked if he thought I'd blow up the door by filling it with that
stuff, and he said he didn't think so. After thinking about it a bit, I think
I agree. My reasoning: on his website (and others with similar products)
there's a picture of a paper cup with some foam that has been poured and expanded
in it. the foam expands over the top, and creates a muffin-top type situation.
the paper cup retains it's shape, and doesn't split. So, think I, as long
as you have open space for the foam to expand, it's not going to split the
door.
>
> Now, this is all my hair-brained theory. The leap to filling my already-fitting
and built doors with something that could destroy them gives me pause. The
upside to doing this is that it seems like it'll make the doors feel much less
flimsy, not add too much weight, insulate a bit, cut down on noise, etc. Downsides?
possibly having to build new doors. hmmm. I think I'm going to get
some of this foam and do some testing. While I'm on this voyage of discovery,
anyone want to give their opinion? A search of the archives only had one entry
on the subject, and it had not much detail.
>
> cj
> #40410
> finishing/FF/various science projects
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? |
There are people who have put fabric on their doors who already
can't get the lift cylinders to stay up well. It would
only get worse over time. Mine work good, but I would never
bother filling them with foam.
If you want me to be blunt, I could just say
"Hey cj, that's a dumb idea." But instead, I'll just
say......is it really worth the possible downsides? :)
I think you'll find that just having fabric on the inside of the
plane will deaden echo'd sounds, and make it pretty quiet.
And, warmth wise you really have no concerns. The heat
output in the -10 is incredible. I fly in 10F weather with
no jacket in the plane because you can easily warm it
comfortable with 1/2 heat. I can't even use full heat.
Anyway, you got my .02. No offense, just havin' fun.
Tim
Chris Johnston wrote:
> Hey all -
>
> I know someone around here has thought about filling the doors with
> an expanding foam to give them some density and make 'em be less
> flimsy. Anyone care to speculate if you'd split your door in two by
> doing this? I was thinking something like this:
>
> http://jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm
>
> I called and spoke with John Greer there and tried to explain myself.
> "uh, so, I'm building an airplane, and I was thinking..." you know
> how those conversations go. I asked if he thought I'd blow up the
> door by filling it with that stuff, and he said he didn't think so.
> After thinking about it a bit, I think I agree. My reasoning: on
> his website (and others with similar products) there's a picture of a
> paper cup with some foam that has been poured and expanded in it.
> the foam expands over the top, and creates a muffin-top type
> situation. the paper cup retains it's shape, and doesn't split. So,
> think I, as long as you have open space for the foam to expand, it's
> not going to split the door.
>
> Now, this is all my hair-brained theory. The leap to filling my
> already-fitting and built doors with something that could destroy
> them gives me pause. The upside to doing this is that it seems like
> it'll make the doors feel much less flimsy, not add too much weight,
> insulate a bit, cut down on noise, etc. Downsides? possibly having
> to build new doors. hmmm. I think I'm going to get some of this
> foam and do some testing. While I'm on this voyage of discovery,
> anyone want to give their opinion? A search of the archives only had
> one entry on the subject, and it had not much detail.
>
> cj #40410 finishing/FF/various science projects
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? |
Hey CJ,
Have you installed the windows in the doors yet? I thought the doors
were flimsy too, until I installed the windows. Seem plenty rigid to me
now. With real issues surrounding door fit, the door latch and the
installation of a locking mechanism, rigidity of the door has not been a
concern for me. YMMV tho'
Cheers,
Ron
187 still trying to finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Wednesday, 27 February 2008 7:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors?
Hey all -
I know someone around here has thought about filling the doors with an
expanding foam to give them some density and make 'em be less flimsy.
Anyone care to speculate if you'd split your door in two by doing this?
I was thinking something like this:
http://jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm
I called and spoke with John Greer there and tried to explain myself.
"uh, so, I'm building an airplane, and I was thinking..." you know how
those conversations go. I asked if he thought I'd blow up the door by
filling it with that stuff, and he said he didn't think so. After
thinking about it a bit, I think I agree. My reasoning: on his website
(and others with similar products) there's a picture of a paper cup with
some foam that has been poured and expanded in it. the foam expands
over the top, and creates a muffin-top type situation. the paper cup
retains it's shape, and doesn't split. So, think I, as long as you have
open space for the foam to expand, it's not going to split the door.
Now, this is all my hair-brained theory. The leap to filling my
already-fitting and built doors with something that could destroy them
gives me pause. The upside to doing this is that it seems like it'll
make the doors feel much less flimsy, not add too much weight, insulate
a bit, cut down on noise, etc. Downsides? possibly having to build new
doors. hmmm. I think I'm going to get some of this foam and do some
testing. While I'm on this voyage of discovery, anyone want to give
their opinion? A search of the archives only had one entry on the
subject, and it had not much detail.
cj
#40410
finishing/FF/various science projects
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
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Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar |
I would definitely pay for a few extra days and split your gas Tim to fly over
there and stake it out.
The spots last year were great and it really made it fun to be so close to the
front and not have to walk up and down the busy road.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:38:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: OSH RV-10 Operatons seminar
-->
RV10-List
message
posted
by:
Tim
Olson
<Tim@MyRV10.com>
I
think
this
year
we
were
also
contemplating
having
me
and/or
Michael
go
over
there
a
little
earlier
so
we
could
get
contiguous
spaces.
I
think
it
was
a
bit
scattered
last
year
and
a
few
of
the
people
who
were
out
there
further
thought
it
would
be
worthwhile
to
get
sites
earlier
and
pay
a
couple
extra
days,
to
get
them
closer.
I'll
touch
base
with
Scott,
but
it
may
be
that
if
others
are
unwilling
to
pick
up
a
couple
more
days
to
be
closer
to
the
group,
that
I'll
still
get
over
there
either
on,
or
before
that
weekend
before,
so
I
can
grab
a
couple
of
them
for
us.
I
definitely
think
we
need
to,
as
a
group,
like
you
mentioned....get
a
single
additional
site
just
for
hanging
out.
It
got
a
bit
tight
at
times
trying
to
cram
all
the
chairs
into
the
end
of
a
site.
It'll
be
sweet
if
we
can
have
better
group
space
this
year.
Personally,
considering
how
close
the
sites
are
to
the
show,
I
think
if
we
grab
some
all
contiguous,
we
should
skip
getting
an
EAA
tent
or
whatever,
and
just
do
it
all
at
the
campsite.
Tim
Olson
-
RV-10
N104CD
-
Flying
do
not
archive
Condrey,
Bob
(US
SSA)
wrote:
>
Sounds
like
a
plan!
>
>
>
>
Bob
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
*From:*
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]
*On
Behalf
Of
>
*speckter@comcast.net
>
*Sent:*
Saturday,
February
23,
2008
7:01
PM
>
*To:*
rv10-list@matronics.com
>
*Subject:*
Re:
RV10-List:
Re:
OSH
RV-10
Operatons
seminar
>
>
>
>
I
looked
at
the
calendar
and
we
will
probably
arrive
at
OSH
on
the
21
on
>
Monday
again
and
we
can
stake
out
the
sites
on
Tues
the
22.
If
you
want
>
to
be
the
treasurer
again,
I
would
be
greatful.
>
>
>
>
Gary
>
>
>
>
--------------
Original
message
--------------
>
From:
"bcondrey"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>
>
-->
RV10-List
message
posted
by:
"bcondrey"
>
>
>
>
Gary,
>
>
>
>
I
will
also
be
there
again
early
but
haven't
really
done
any
>
planning
yet.
I
>
>
thought
last
year
worked
OK,
but
if
somebody
had
ideas
for
>
improvements
I'm
all
>
>
ears.
>
>
>
>
BTW,
last
year
folks
were
very
generous
with
their
contributions
>
during
our
>
>
various
"food
nights"
and
we
overachieved
a
bit...
I
plan
to
use
>
the
excess
>
>
collected
to
partially
offset
cost
for
an
extra
site
to
give
us
>
more
room
for
>
>
gathering
and
socializing
for
the
group.
>
>
>
>
We
can
plan
more
when
it
gets
a
little
closer.
>
>
>
>
Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Read
this
topic
online
here:
>
>
*>
-->
*
>
>
*
*
>
>
*
*
>
>
**
>
>
**
>
>
**
>
>
**
>
>
**
>
>
**
>
>
**
>
>
*http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
>
*
*
>
>
*
>
>
>
*
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List
Features
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Message 10
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|
Subject: | Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? |
Absolutely do not do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You will find out several things. As has been said, with so little space fo
r the foam to expand into, it can easily seal itself off, leaving no place
for the expansion to go and it will warp and bow out your doors. If you cou
ld have each part half still in their mold halves and then fill it and clos
e the mold, it would be a different story.
"Do Not Seek The Treasure!!!!" Oh Brother Where Art Thou
JOhn G.> Subject: RV10-List: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors?> Da
te: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:08:02 -0800> From: CJohnston@popsound.com> To: rv10
-list@matronics.com> > Hey all - > > I know someone around here has thought
about filling the doors with an expanding foam to give them some density a
nd make 'em be less flimsy. Anyone care to speculate if you'd split your do
or in two by doing this? I was thinking something like this:> > http://jgre
er.com/Foam%20Page.htm> > I called and spoke with John Greer there and trie
d to explain myself. "uh, so, I'm building an airplane, and I was thinking.
.." you know how those conversations go. I asked if he thought I'd blow up
the door by filling it with that stuff, and he said he didn't think so. Aft
er thinking about it a bit, I think I agree. My reasoning: on his website (
and others with similar products) there's a picture of a paper cup with som
e foam that has been poured and expanded in it. the foam expands over the t
op, and creates a muffin-top type situation. the paper cup retains it's sha
pe, and doesn't split. So, think I, as long as you have open space for the
foam to expand, it's not going to split the door. > > Now, this is all my h
air-brained theory. The leap to filling my already-fitting and built doors
with something that could destroy them gives me pause. The upside to doing
this is that it seems like it'll make the doors feel much less flimsy, not
add too much weight, insulate a bit, cut down on noise, etc. Downsides? pos
sibly having to build new doors. hmmm. I think I'm going to get some of thi
s foam and do some testing. While I'm on this voyage of discovery, anyone w
ant to give their opinion? A search of the archives only had one entry on t
he subject, and it had not much detail.> > cj> #40410> finishing/FF/various
science projects> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net>
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Make me 4th.
Bob K
One step forward, two backwards. Stuff Happens
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Moving Day
I''ll fight for 2nd...er third I guess.
Chase Snodgrass wrote:
<mailto:airplanedriver@gmail.com> <airplanedriver@gmail.com>
If you're talking bias spring rudder trim, I'll fight to be first in line!!
Chase Snodgrass
Presidio, TX
TWO simultaneous 40820/40821
http;//flybigbend.com
Do not archive
On 2/20/08, Deems Davis <mailto:deemsdavis@cox.net> <deemsdavis@cox.net>
wrote:
<deemsdavis@cox.net>
Hey wait ! I resemble that remark! :-D
Funny thing, I've been on the phone and e-mail for the last couple of
days with people who are working on 2 mods that I think every RV-10
builder will want. (I know I want them) Both of the designer/builders
monitor this forum, but are a little shy about throwing their creations
open to the scrutiny of this expert group. (They figured I was an easy
and low risk mark :-P ). Actually I'm hoping that this e-mail might put
some additional pressure on them :-X . And sniff them out.
*_I PROMISE_* these will be the last two mods I make before the plane
flies !
(I've got one more that's in the works, but that one is Major and will
remain 'cloaked' until it's ready ) ---- don't you just LOVE the drama
!!!!!!
Gary, your bird looks terrific, I'm counting on you to shake out the OP
systems.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Neal George wrote:
Careful, Gary.
You'll give Deems ideas for more mods...
*
*
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Subject: | Re: Urethane pourable expanding foam in doors? |
Been there, done that .... but not on parts like these doors. If you
decide to go down this path .... and I think it's a good idea .... there
are a few things you can control, and a few that you can't.
You really should make some weep holes along the cavity ..... a place
for the pressure to go. Plug these with a tapered plug that's snug, not
tight. At any signs of swelling, pull the plugs.
The pressure can get fairly high per sq. in., but having a close space
makes the foam denser, and therefore stronger. If there's a seam that
didn't get sufficient epoxy, it may part.
To do a good job, you need to get the liquid foam to coat the whole
cavity before it flashes off. The cooler you keep it, the longer your
working time. once it starts to kick, it generates it's own heat and
it'll run away pretty quickly.
You need to have some way to get the liquid mix into the cavity .....
you may be able to take a baggie, cut a corner off, and tape a tube in
the hole. Fill the baggie with the mix, and squeeze it like a bakers
icing bag into the cavity. I had a machine that mixed the two parts and
I could spray it into a cavity.
Having gone all through this, if there's a boat manufacturer near you,
they have the machine to spray foam into flotation places and can give
you some pointers.
Linn
Chris Johnston wrote:
>Hey all -
>
>I know someone around here has thought about filling the doors with an expanding
foam to give them some density and make 'em be less flimsy. Anyone care to
speculate if you'd split your door in two by doing this? I was thinking something
like this:
>
>http://jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm
>
>I called and spoke with John Greer there and tried to explain myself. "uh, so,
I'm building an airplane, and I was thinking..." you know how those conversations
go. I asked if he thought I'd blow up the door by filling it with that
stuff, and he said he didn't think so. After thinking about it a bit, I think
I agree. My reasoning: on his website (and others with similar products) there's
a picture of a paper cup with some foam that has been poured and expanded
in it. the foam expands over the top, and creates a muffin-top type situation.
the paper cup retains it's shape, and doesn't split. So, think I, as long
as you have open space for the foam to expand, it's not going to split the
door.
>
>Now, this is all my hair-brained theory. The leap to filling my already-fitting
and built doors with something that could destroy them gives me pause. The
upside to doing this is that it seems like it'll make the doors feel much less
flimsy, not add too much weight, insulate a bit, cut down on noise, etc. Downsides?
possibly having to build new doors. hmmm. I think I'm going to get
some of this foam and do some testing. While I'm on this voyage of discovery,
anyone want to give their opinion? A search of the archives only had one entry
on the subject, and it had not much detail.
>
>cj
>#40410
>finishing/FF/various science projects
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
>
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Subject: | BA Prop Part II - Paint |
Seeing that my last question about a BA prop ended in a discussion about
male performance related issues I am hesitant to ask a follow up but
here it goes...
I always lusted after the custom painted composite props and assumed
that I could not paint my BA prop till I saw an RV-10 for sale on
Barnstormers with a painted prop. I am beginning to feel my life can now
be complete.
Any comments on the practicality of painting this prop full length or
just a modified paint scheme on the tip (extended)?
Robin
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Subject: | Re: BA Prop Part II - Paint |
You can definitely paint the BA prop!! Hartzell will do it for you.
Kirk
Quoting Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>:
> Seeing that my last question about a BA prop ended in a discussion about
> male performance related issues I am hesitant to ask a follow up but
> here it goes...
>
> I always lusted after the custom painted composite props and assumed
> that I could not paint my BA prop till I saw an RV-10 for sale on
> Barnstormers with a painted prop. I am beginning to feel my life can now
> be complete.
>
> Any comments on the practicality of painting this prop full length or
> just a modified paint scheme on the tip (extended)?
>
>
> Robin
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Unusual paint ridge around windows |
John,
After you painted the door with Imron, did you bake the paint to help it dry
or did you let it air dry?
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166516#166516
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Subject: | Unusual paint ridge around windows |
John,
I think you're right, there must have been a reaction. Let's see, Weld-On,
base resin, plexiglass, West System, Smooth Prime, primer, and Imron...quite
a few volatile chemicals all in close proximity.
I would have thought the overlay would have taken care of that. I did
something similar around the windsheild of mine, but the overlay went on
many months after the bond was cured. Maybe that made a
difference--allowing the bond to cure fully. Also, I used Hysol instead of
WeldOn, just because we use it alot, not because of any other
characteristics.
Wish I had something better to tell you.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 12:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Unusual paint ridge around windows
Dave,
The ridge is just over the Weld On seam between the plexi and fiberglass.
Its as though the Weld On expanded when painted over. I used West System
epoxy.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Unusual paint ridge around windows
John,
The ridge looks like it's at the edge of the fiberglass. Is that right, or
is the edge of the fiberglass further from the plex? What type of resin did
you use to overlay the seam?
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Unusual paint ridge around windows
I have had an unusual situation with the door windows when painting and want
to see if anyone else has seen a similar problem.
After painting the doors a small ridge developed above the
Plexiglas-fiberglass joint - it is about 1/4 wide and 1/16 high. The area
was level and smooth after priming. I used the Weld On 10 and put a thin
layer of fiberglass over the seam. I then primed with UV SmoothPrime and
primed over that with the Dupont high build primer. All looked good until we
painted the final color and clear coat (Imron). It seems like some kind of
chemical reaction.
Anyone else seen this? Any ideas? Suggestions on how to best fix and avoid
this on the other windows?
I have attached a few photos - a little hard to see the ridge.
Thanks for you input.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting in sections and LOTS of little stuff
2/23/2008 9:35 PM
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2/23/2008 9:35 PM
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