Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:28 AM - Re: Lower Cowl Mounts (Russell Daves)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: Butyl inner tubes "just don't leak" (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
3. 07:46 AM - Re: Lower Cowl Mounts (Vernon Smith)
4. 08:30 AM - Re: Lower Cowl Mounts (linn Walters)
5. 09:07 AM - Re: RV-10 missing in Texas (tintopranch)
6. 09:44 AM - Re: Lower Cowl Mounts (John W. Cox)
7. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias (Albert Gardner)
8. 10:18 AM - Re: Lower Cowl Mounts (Albert Gardner)
9. 11:24 AM - Re: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias (Pascal)
10. 12:32 PM - Re: RV-10 missing in Texas (John W. Cox)
11. 12:35 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias (Scott Schmidt)
12. 03:05 PM - Stainless placard (David McNeill)
13. 03:53 PM - Fuel Tank Corrosion (Jeff Carpenter)
14. 03:59 PM - Re: Stainless placard (larryrosen@comcast.net)
15. 04:57 PM - Re: Brake Temperatures Hi Brake Temperatures Hi (jimandlaura)
16. 06:45 PM - Re: Electric/Gas Tow Bars (Tim Lewis)
17. 07:07 PM - Re: Electric/Gas Tow Bars (Carl Froehlich)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which
as all
ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the best idea
is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will be
changing my
soon.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
Instead of screws and nutplates you should consider the floating
camlocks from SkyBolt which I installed.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
Message 2
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| Subject: | Butyl inner tubes "just don't leak" |
As I recall the tubes for the mains are AirStops (butyl) but the nose is
not.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 6:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Butyl inner tubes "just don't leak"
A February 2008 Aviation Consumer article on tires says"
"...Until recently, tubes were manufactured from a natural rubber
compound. Unfortunately, natural rubber is relatively porous and loses
pressure more readily than synthetic materials. Therefore, your tires
would lose pressure and go soft, too.
Enter the butyl rubber tube, now largely the standard among all aircraft
inner tube manufacturers. Since unused inner tubes are perfectly good
for installation, we're not saying you won't find a natural rubber tube
out there on some shop's shelf. It's perfectly serviceable, it just
won't hold air as well.
Goodyear's Brown says the new butyl tubes, introduced some seven years
ago, improve air retention by a factor of about 10. Steve Chlavin of
Desser Tire, the GA industry's mega tire retailer, agrees, saying, "The
new butyl leak-resistant tubes just don't leak.""
It's fairly easy to add air to my RV-6A tires - the valve stems point
out, so the tire can be aired through a small hole in the fairing. The
situation is more challenging in a stock RV-10 (valve stems on the mains
point toward the axle, for example). With this in mind, does anybody
know whether the tires Vans shipped with the RV-10 kits are butyl or
natural rubber?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 3
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| Subject: | Lower Cowl Mounts |
I'm planning on doing a cross between the two ideas and using floating nutp
lates:
Two Lug Miniature Anchor Nuts
Part No.
Thread Size
Price
Buy
MF5000-06
6-32
$1.09
MF5000-08
8-32
$0.91
MF5000-3(Manufactured Material Certification Available)
10-32
$0.79
Aircraft Spruce is one source. They are also known as MS21059.
Vern Smith (#324)
From: dav1111@erfwireless.netTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-L
ist: Lower Cowl MountsDate: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 06:25:22 -0500
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which as
all ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the best idea is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I
will be changing my soon. -------- MARK SUTHERLANDInst
ead of screws and nutplates you should consider the floating camlocks from
SkyBolt which I installed.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!-Play the word scramble challenge with sta
r power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_ja
n
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Lower Cowl Mounts |
My only concerns would be with wear to the cowl and subsequent
'looseness' if the screws backed out or weren't put in real tight, and
the possibility of cowl shift after assembly. I had a problem with the
upper engine cowl on my Pitts (aluminum) where I must have been less
than diligent tightening one screw. Vibration wore a hole in the
aluminum the size of the screw head. Now has a finish washer there.
There appears to be a fair amount of stress on the hinges as evidenced
by all the failures I'm reading here. I'm becoming leery of the
aluminum hinge, but like the solution of the carbhinge .... but not the
price. Cowls have had fixed nutplates on other designs with no obvious
problems.
Linn
do not archive.
Vernon Smith wrote:
> I'm planning on doing a cross between the two ideas and using floating
> nutplates:
>
> Two Lug Miniature Anchor Nuts
>
> Part No.
>
> Thread Size
>
> Price
>
> Buy
> MF5000-06
>
> 6-32
>
> $1.09
>
> <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=MF5000-06&q=1>
> MF5000-08
>
> 8-32
>
> $0.91
>
> <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=MF5000-08&q=1>
> MF5000-3
> (Manufactured Material Certification Available)
>
> 10-32
>
> $0.79
>
> <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=MF5000-3&q=1>
>
>
> Aircraft Spruce is one source. They are also known as MS21059.
>
>
> Vern Smith (#324)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: dav1111@erfwireless.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
> Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 06:25:22 -0500
>
> I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge
> which as all
> ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I
> agree that the best idea
> is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will
> be changing my
> soon.
>
> --------
> MARK SUTHERLAND
> Instead of screws and nutplates you should consider the floating
> camlocks from SkyBolt which I installed.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV - 190+ hours
>
>
>get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>p://forums.matronics.com
>blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with
> star power. Play now!
> <http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 missing in Texas |
this was posted by Austin News Station KXAN...
Mark and I have shared RV10 building tips with each other and I hope he is found
safe....
Man Missing After Plane Disappears
Posted: March 10, 2008 10:15 AM CDT
A 71-year-old man is missing after he flew a plane out of Brenham on Sunday, according
to a Civil Air Patrol official.
The missing man, Mark Ritter, had lunch in Brenham at 12:30 p.m. He said that he
wasn't feeling well and was going to head back to his home in Lockhart.
The RV10 experimental plane never made it to Lockhart. The last contact with the
plane was at 2 p.m. Sunday, 10 miles east of Giddings, just south of 290.
Civil Air Patrol Capt. Arthur Woodgate said officials are asking people to look
in their backyards and if you have any information, call him at 512-858-1383.
You could also call Cmdr. John Ureke at 832-643-5290.
KXAN Austin News has a crew on the scene and will bring updates as soon as they
become available.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168809#168809
Message 6
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| Subject: | Lower Cowl Mounts |
I originally posted the information on John Barrett and his carbinge,
not because of price but the use of similar material and correct
adhesive. I have seen rivets through composite cowls pop and fail all
too often. There is a tremendous weight and vibration which are
transferred into the fasteners. I found the reinforcement plate and use
of solid, removable fasteners much superior to the use of rivets. Just
as an aluminum hinge on an aluminum cowl made sense, I was concluding a
composite hinge on a composite cowl made sense.
Attachment is the issue to the airframe. Reducing the vibration as much
as practical saves on fasteners and stress riser cracking.
John Cox (#600)
PS - My thoughts are with a safe solution to Mark Ritter at this moment
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
My only concerns would be with wear to the cowl and subsequent
'looseness' if the screws backed out or weren't put in real tight, and
the possibility of cowl shift after assembly. I had a problem with the
upper engine cowl on my Pitts (aluminum) where I must have been less
than diligent tightening one screw. Vibration wore a hole in the
aluminum the size of the screw head. Now has a finish washer there.
There appears to be a fair amount of stress on the hinges as evidenced
by all the failures I'm reading here. I'm becoming leery of the
aluminum hinge, but like the solution of the carbhinge .... but not the
price. Cowls have had fixed nutplates on other designs with no obvious
problems.
Linn
do not archive.
Vernon Smith wrote:
I'm planning on doing a cross between the two ideas and using floating
nutplates:
Two Lug Miniature Anchor Nuts
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/MF5000-6.jpg>
Part No.
Thread Size
Price
Buy
MF5000-06
6-32
$1.09
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=MF5000-06&q
=1>
MF5000-08
8-32
$0.91
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=MF5000-08&q
=1>
MF5000-3
(Manufactured Material Certification Available)
10-32
$0.79
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=MF5000-3&q=
1>
Aircraft Spruce is one source. They are also known as MS21059.
Vern Smith (#324)
________________________________
From: dav1111@erfwireless.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Cowl Mounts
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which
as all
ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the best idea
is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will be
changing my
soon.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
Instead of screws and nutplates you should consider the floating
camlocks from SkyBolt which I installed.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 190+ hours
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with
star power. Play now!
<http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink
_
jan>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
I used drawing OP38-6 (Electric Trim System) for information on spacing the
springs. I can't remember the un-stretched length of the spring but I left a
6" gap between the trim servo arm and the end of the cable from the rudder.
The spring never goes slack but I was more worried about over stretching it.
I trim full right rudder on take off and it seems to be about right
depending on climb out speed and there seems to be adequate trim available
for cruise and descent. I didn't measure the pedal force but I think I
should have stretched the springs another 1/2" or so. I'm going to order a
spring from Vans and see how far it will stretch without distortion. If I
need more tension I'll add another spring inside of the one that's there.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Albert, I really like this approach. I especially like the ease of
installation, this is something that could be added after the fact without
much headache at all. I do have some questions though. Are the springs
initially stretched. What trim force do you think you are getting? I had
sent an e-mail to Vans asking what input they thought would be required.
They told me that a 5 to 10 pound force as measured at the bottom of the
rudder pedal should take care of any 'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be
required to compensate for takeoff forces.
Jason Kreidler - #40617
4 Partner Build - Finishing
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lower Cowl Mounts |
I have used nutplates on my RV-9A (850 hrs) and on the RV-10 (68 hrs)
and
their strong point is reliability and expense.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
I have 150 hrs on my RV10 and I am on my second left bottom hinge which
as
all
ready lost one tab. I am not sure why it happens but I agree that
the
best idea
is to go with screws and nut plates from the start. I will be
changing my
soon.
MARK SUTHERLAND
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
Sure seems like another great option with a kit that already exists!
My questions? Have you called Van's on this and spoken with Ken K? He might
have some insight into the spring tightness and maybe even guidance on the
way it is setup.
Please do keep us updated on the testing and any changes made /results
Thanks for sharing!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias
>
> I used drawing OP38-6 (Electric Trim System) for information on spacing
> the
> springs. I can't remember the un-stretched length of the spring but I left
> a
> 6" gap between the trim servo arm and the end of the cable from the
> rudder.
> The spring never goes slack but I was more worried about over stretching
> it.
> I trim full right rudder on take off and it seems to be about right
> depending on climb out speed and there seems to be adequate trim available
> for cruise and descent. I didn't measure the pedal force but I think I
> should have stretched the springs another 1/2" or so. I'm going to order a
> spring from Vans and see how far it will stretch without distortion. If I
> need more tension I'll add another spring inside of the one that's there.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Albert, I really like this approach. I especially like the ease of
> installation, this is something that could be added after the fact without
> much headache at all. I do have some questions though. Are the springs
> initially stretched. What trim force do you think you are getting? I had
> sent an e-mail to Vans asking what input they thought would be required.
> They told me that a 5 to 10 pound force as measured at the bottom of the
> rudder pedal should take care of any 'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be
> required to compensate for takeoff forces.
> Jason Kreidler - #40617
> 4 Partner Build - Finishing
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV-10 missing in Texas |
This has only tangent connect to the search for Mark, however a similar
incident happened here in Oregon several years ago.
Robert McCann was departing with a series of Sunday morning pilots who
would go for the $100 Ham and Egg breakfast - each and every weekend.
He was not feeling well, was flying solo and was the final of 13 pilots
to depart Point A. Few of those 13 filed flight plans back to Point B.
Everyone knew the route and it was a large gaggle headed the same
general direction.
Once family members became concerned our aviation club of over 100
aircraft strong wanted to start an immediate air search. Turns out each
County Sheriff has the final authority to activate a search or focus on
more politically expedient issues. Confusion as to which of three
potential counties (Marion, Clackamas or Washington) lead to some
disconnect. Aviators were told to Stand Down. Timing was our perception
that we would find Robert safe if we could just get involved. Much like
the concerted efforts of finding Steve Fossett, little amounts of money
or aircraft would change the outcome of a rescue which becomes a search
and recovery. It fell into the hands of the leadership of the sheriff
and the response of the CAP to close the chapter.
My prayers are with clear skies, a strong cellphone battery and a filed
flight plan to begin the extensive search. KXAN was reporting light
rain this morning and the noon report did not update the story. Paul's
report of 20 miles NW and looking at the Direct To course brings back
those memories and a need for heighten prayers for a speedy and
successful outcome.
The issue of 121.5 and February 2009 should be on every builders minds
along with your most effective prayers.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 8:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 missing in Texas
>From the Vansairforce site. Posted by Paul Dye.
Folks, I am posting this after talking with Doug, with the sole purpose
of letting people know what is going on. I propose that we keep the
speculation to ZERO, but if you have any factual information, pass it on
here.
We don't know very much, except that Mark Ritter, of Lockhart, TX is the
subject of a search tonight, He left Brenham a few minutes after 1230
this afternoon, headed home, and never showed up. Apparently there was a
"ping" from his cell phone about 20 miles northwest of Brenham a few
minutes after his departure, according to information I got from his
friends out near his home field. He took off about two minutes ahead of
me, but we were going opposite directions.
We can only hope and pray that he turns up - I am certain that a full-up
search will be going when daylight hits tomorrow.
Paul
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias |
Speaking of rudders and rudder trim I had a bad thing happen in Vegas last
weekend. I flew down and on Friday for the Nascar race and parked my plane
into the wind and installed my rudder lock. On Saturday a front came thro
ugh, the winds reversed had gusts up to 50 knots and it broke my rudder lo
ck that I made and caused the rudder to slam side to side and did some cosm
etic damage to it. It sheared two of the three rivets on both rudder stops
that are attached to the metal brackets on the HS spar. I could not believe
it. I don=A2t think I=A2ll be able to fix it and make it look like new so
I=A2ll probably be building a new one. (just priced it out last night, $40
0 for a new rudder) I want to add a nice electric rudder trim to it and thi
s will give me a chance to do that. I will also be re-designing my rudder
lock. It had a weak point in it, I knew it did but never thought there wou
ld be enough force on it to break it. =0ALive and learn and luckily I can
do some learning for the group. Make sure you use a rudder lock and yes, th
ere can be 50 knot gusts when you would never predict it. At least the wea
ther was great for the races with a good breeze and Kirby Chamblis flew his
Edge 540 for the crowd before the race. =0A=0AI am looking into the "best
practices" for rudder trim to adapt to my new rudder and like the idea pres
ented in this thread. I am going to leave my wedge on my new rudder and ad
d the rudder trim. That way it will very little deflection in cruise. =0A
=0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt@yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message
----=0AFrom: Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:20:23 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Re: R
<rv10builder@verizon.net>=0A=0ASure seems like another great option with a
kit that already exists!=0AMy questions? Have you called Van's on this and
spoken with Ken K? He might =0Ahave some insight into the spring tightness
and maybe even guidance on the =0Away it is setup.=0APlease do keep us upda
ted on the testing and any changes made /results=0AThanks for sharing!=0APa
scal=0A----- Original Message ----- =0AFrom: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadr
unner.com>=0ATo: <rv10-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Monday, March 10, 2008 1
0:18 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Trim with Spring Bias=0A=0A=0A
=0A>=0A> I used drawing OP38-6 (Electric Trim System) for information on sp
acing =0A> the=0A> springs. I can't remember the un-stretched length of the
spring but I left =0A> a=0A> 6" gap between the trim servo arm and the end
of the cable from the =0A> rudder.=0A> The spring never goes slack but I w
as more worried about over stretching =0A> it.=0A> I trim full right rudder
on take off and it seems to be about right=0A> depending on climb out spee
d and there seems to be adequate trim available=0A> for cruise and descent.
I didn't measure the pedal force but I think I=0A> should have stretched t
he springs another 1/2" or so. I'm going to order a=0A> spring from Vans an
d see how far it will stretch without distortion. If I=0A> need more tensio
n I'll add another spring inside of the one that's there.=0A> Albert Gardne
r=0A> Yuma, AZ=0A>=0A> -----Original Message-----=0A> Albert, I really like
this approach. I especially like the ease of=0A> installation, this is so
mething that could be added after the fact without=0A> much headache at all
. I do have some questions though. Are the springs=0A> initially stretched
. What trim force do you think you are getting? I had=0A> sent an e-mail t
o Vans asking what input they thought would be required.=0A> They told me t
hat a 5 to 10 pound force as measured at the bottom of the=0A> rudder pedal
should take care of any 'normal' trim, 25 pounds could be=0A> required to
compensate for takeoff forces.=0A> Jason Kreidler - #40617=0A> 4 Partner Bu
======================0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A
Message 12
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| Subject: | Stainless placard |
What kind of engraving/stamping was done for your tail placards? What kind
of cost? Trying to avoid the $100+ placard that nobody ever reads and still
comply with the requirement..
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Corrosion |
When I made my tanks... last May and June... I taped off the areas of
the skin that would be mated to the stiffeners and ribs with blue
painters tape. I roughened up the surface with scotch brite, cleaned
with aluma-prep and assembled with pro-seal. I left the baffle off
of the tanks as I was debating the installation of capacitance
senders instead of the floats. Over time (can't quite say how much)
I pulled up the painters tape.
So, I'm now ready to close up the tanks (with the floats) and find
that the right tank has a light corrosion in it... primarily under
the areas and at the edges of where the tape had been. I believe
this is both from the adhesive on the tape as well as my failure to
completely rinse the aluma-prep off in some areas. I can remove this
with a whole lot of elbow grease and a scotch brite pad. It comes up
a bit easier with aluma-prep and a scotch brite pad, but will then
run in to the nooks and crannies of the tank and create a new problem
somewhere else if I don't rinse quickly enough.
Will the presence of fuel in the tank act as corrosion protection and
keep this from progressing? Is this process something that stops
when the corrosive agent (the aluma prep, or the tape) is removed or
"used up," or is this a ball that once rolling won't stop?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Scoth brite Hell
Awaiting your reply
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless placard |
$100 no way.
Placards from Vans $2.75 for the plain jane one or $12.00 for the fancy vans airforce one. It will cost you more for shipping than the cost of the placard. From the Vans web store http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1205189344-220-669&browse=airframe&product=placards
Then have aircraft engravers make engrave them for you. $26. They may be able to supply the placard also. http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/dataplate.htm
Larry Rosen
#356
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
What kind of engraving/stamping was done for your tail placards? What kind of cost?
Trying to avoid the $100+ placard that nobody ever reads and still comply
with the requirement..
<html><body>
<DIV>$100 no way.</DIV>
<DIV>Placards from Vans $2.75 for the plain jane one or $12.00 for the fancy vans airforce one. It will cost you more for shipping than the cost of the placard. From the Vans web store <A href="http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1205189344-220-669&browse=airframe&product=placards">http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1205189344-220-669&browse=airframe&product=placards</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Then have aircraft engravers make engrave them for you. $26. They may be able to supply the placard also. <A href="http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/dataplate.htm">http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/dataplate.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Larry Rosen</DIV>
<DIV>#356</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "David McNeill"
<dlm46007@cox.net> <BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16609" name=GENERATOR>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=112075821-10032008>What kind of engraving/stamping
was done for your tail placards? What kind of cost? Trying to avoid
the $100+ placard that nobody ever reads and still comply with the requirement..</SPAN></FONT></DIV><PRE><B><FONT
face="courier new,courier" size=2 color000000?>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Temperatures Hi Brake Temperatures Hi |
Lew,
Thank you! Yes, that's what I meant, the brake cylinder not the calipers. It
will make sense when you take the retaining spring out.
v/r, Jim Riley
Time: 08:53:07 AM PST US
Subject: Re: Brake Temperatures Hi
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Hey Jim,
Springs in the calipers? Did I miss something? I'll have to go back and
check,
but I don't remember that. Maybe in the pedal cylinders? At any rate, I'll
certainly check it out before we put fluid in the system.
Later, - Lew
Do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Landing gear installed, we're mobile!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=168578#168578
________________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Electric/Gas Tow Bars |
I bought the Tow Buddy. It's the one Wag Aero sells
(http://www.ground-support.com/tow_buddy.html and
http://store.wagaero.com/index.php?cPath=602_517). I've had it about 2
years, so far so good. I've used it with my RV-10 in the shop, and with
my RV-6A out at the hangar. Works with my RV-10 and RV-6A just fine,
but the grip width has to be adjusted to go from one to the other, as I
recall. Back when I bought mine (Osh 06) they had the normal model and
one with a higher power, higher current controller board. I bought that
one. (I think they market them as the TB-2000 and TB-3000 now, but ask
to be sure).
I talked to several of the other manufacturers but couldn't get a clear
answer on whether or not their products would work with an RV-10. The
folks at Powertow were infuriating to deal with. Wag Aero's folks, on
the other hand, put me directly in touch with the guy who knew
everything about the Tow Buddy. They worked with me to be certain their
unit would work for my needs. The pins they supplied worked with both
the RV-10 and RV-6.
My only "complaint" is the low key marketing (!) at Wag Aero. They had
options (snow chains, the boosted power board) that they didn't even
mention in their sales literature or catalog. When I asked I got "sure
we have have snow chains... you want those?" and while discussing my
concerns about getting my RV-10 up over a hangar lip, the gentleman
happened to mention the boosted power option.
Hope this helps.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Rene wrote:
>
> Any recommendations on Electric or Gas powered tow bars. Now that I
> am actually taking the completed....almost....in and out of the hanger
> I see a need for one. I can get the airplane out of the hanger no
> problem but getting it back in is a different story. I thought about
> putting a winch in the back of the hanger and just pulling it in, but
> the tow bar may be easier.
>
>
>
> Any recommendations for one that works well with the wheel pans on?
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 17
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| Subject: | Electric/Gas Tow Bars |
Another option is to use a standard lawn tractor. You need to rig a tow bar
so that it connects to the tractor. Several people at the airpark go this
route. Some do a tow point on the front of the tractor so that they are
facing the airplane when towing.
Looking at the price of powered tow bars you can just about buy a new lawn
tractor and get some other use out of it.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric/Gas Tow Bars
I bought the Tow Buddy. It's the one Wag Aero sells
(http://www.ground-support.com/tow_buddy.html and
http://store.wagaero.com/index.php?cPath=602_517). I've had it about 2
years, so far so good. I've used it with my RV-10 in the shop, and with my
RV-6A out at the hangar. Works with my RV-10 and RV-6A just fine, but the
grip width has to be adjusted to go from one to the other, as I recall.
Back when I bought mine (Osh 06) they had the normal model and one with a
higher power, higher current controller board. I bought that one. (I think
they market them as the TB-2000 and TB-3000 now, but ask to be sure).
I talked to several of the other manufacturers but couldn't get a clear
answer on whether or not their products would work with an RV-10. The folks
at Powertow were infuriating to deal with. Wag Aero's folks, on the other
hand, put me directly in touch with the guy who knew everything about the
Tow Buddy. They worked with me to be certain their unit would work for my
needs. The pins they supplied worked with both the RV-10 and RV-6.
My only "complaint" is the low key marketing (!) at Wag Aero. They had
options (snow chains, the boosted power board) that they didn't even mention
in their sales literature or catalog. When I asked I got "sure we have have
snow chains... you want those?" and while discussing my concerns about
getting my RV-10 up over a hangar lip, the gentleman happened to mention the
boosted power option.
Hope this helps.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Rene wrote:
Any recommendations on Electric or Gas powered tow bars. Now that I am
actually taking the completed..almost..in and out of the hanger I see a need
for one. I can get the airplane out of the hanger no problem but getting it
back in is a different story. I thought about putting a winch in the back
of the hanger and just pulling it in, but the tow bar may be easier.
Any recommendations for one that works well with the wheel pans on?
Rene'
801-721-6080
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
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