Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Re: Door fit (John Dunne)
2. 12:03 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (John Dunne)
3. 05:09 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
4. 05:47 AM - Re: Door fit (Indran Chelvanayagam)
5. 05:49 AM - Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
6. 05:52 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (David McNeill)
7. 05:57 AM - Re: Door fit (John Testement)
8. 05:58 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (Tim Olson)
9. 06:20 AM - Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? (Rick Sked)
10. 06:33 AM - Re: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil (dougpflyrv@aol.com)
11. 06:54 AM - Re: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil (Jesse Saint)
12. 06:58 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (Kelly McMullen)
13. 07:38 AM - Fw: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil (Pascal)
14. 07:50 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (Tim Olson)
15. 09:27 AM - Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? (neil)
16. 09:31 AM - Re: Door fit (nick@nleonard.com)
17. 10:18 AM - Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
18. 12:00 PM - Re: Door fit (jim berry)
19. 12:24 PM - Re: Door fit (orchidman)
20. 01:43 PM - Re: Door fit (jim berry)
21. 02:01 PM - Andair/FI Fitting (John Gonzalez)
22. 02:03 PM - 3 view drawing (gary)
23. 02:51 PM - Re: 3 view drawing (Rene Felker)
24. 03:02 PM - Re: 3 view drawing (jim berry)
25. 03:29 PM - Fuel Injector Servo SB (McGANN, Ron)
26. 04:08 PM - Re: Andair/FI Fitting (Deems Davis)
27. 04:40 PM - Re: Andair/FI Fitting (jim berry)
28. 06:37 PM - Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? (Chris)
29. 07:04 PM - Re: Door fit (Chris)
30. 09:20 PM - Re: Fuel Injector Servo SB (McGANN, Ron)
31. 11:09 PM - Re: Fuel Injector Servo SB (John Dunne)
32. 11:41 PM - Re: Door fit (John Dunne)
Message 1
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Rob, I was very careful as well but in the end you could fit a small animal
between the door and the canopy.
I ended up fibreglassing my doors shut and then creating and molding the
canopy to the door with a gentle transition.
Finally I re-cut the original opening back through. Wasted a lot of time on
this and agonized over it way too much and in the end it was simple enough
to fix.
I also removed the small animal so it didn't suffocate because the doors
were now airtight.
John 40315 Cowls.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Wright
Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door fit
All,
I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering,
"Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush
while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in
relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of
trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the
canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"
Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of
the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the
paint booth after a coat of primer on.
Thoughts and pointers?
Rob Wright
#392
starting on door hinges
_____
Be a better friend, newshound, and
Message 2
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Subject: | Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
Hartzell service letter HC-SL-61-61Y extract only:
" C. Calendar Limits
(1) The effects of exposure to the environment over a period of time create
a need for propeller overhaul regardless of flight time.
Corrosion can create hidden defects in critical blade retention components;
therefore, a 36, 60 or 72 calendar month limit between overhauls is
specified.
(2) Start date for calendar limit is when the propeller is first installed
and run on an engine.
Calendar limit is not interrupted by subsequent removal and/or storage "
One thing to check is the full s/n of the hub unit. Make sure it has a "B"
suffix e.g AU12345 B. There are some limiting AD's and SB's on the early
model hubs when bolted to an O/IO-540.
Other than that like Robin says it's significantly faster whilst parked.
John 40315 cowls
"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hartzell blended airfoil performance
Check,
If my math is right it's $1,800 less, not $2,000. Yes I round
everything too, round down on -10 costs for my wife and round up -10
performance for my friends. The BA is significantly faster while parked
that the square tipped Hartzell.
I THINK the TBO on the BA is 6 years. If that is the case for
the boxed prop you are you 2 years from an OH? I don't know when the
clock starts. I doubt the boxed prop is warranted anymore. If an OH is
due in 2+/- years that makes the price difference even smaller. Baring
any info suggesting the boxed prop is a better then the BA I would
purchase the new, fully warranted BA. Think of it as second guess
insurance. You know, how you may second guess your choice for the
remainder of the time you own the -10.
I have a non-BA Hartzell on my RV-6A and wish it was a brand
spankin' new BA in its place.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 8:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell blended airfoil performance
I've got a chance to purchase a brand new Hartzell constant speed that's
been in the box for four years for $4,500. Standard 80" blades.
Van's has a new Hartzell prop with blended air foil type blades for
$6,300.
Anyone out there know if the difference in performance between the two
is worth the additional $2,000?
Chuck
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
In a message dated 3/12/2008 11:32:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
robin1@mrmoisture.com writes:
I THINK the TBO on the BA is 6 years.
Do you know for sure that this suggested TBO date will apply to your
experimental aircraft?
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
Message 4
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Now we all come out of hiding...
The gap between my first set of doors & the canopy was more than the
allowable small animal.
Have recently taken delivery of a new set of door shells. The local FG
aeroplane guru will be supervising the second set over Easter - has
already suggested many changes to the procedure in the Van's manual,
such as clecoing the shells all the way around the perimeter; heat gun
to remove any bending stress before joining; and totally ignoring the
preformed dimples.
As a side note, the new pink layups are better surface quality than
the old green ones.
Will post more info (&pics) when doors done.
Indran
#228 - soon to be a four door RV10
On 13/03/2008, at 3:55 PM, John Dunne wrote:
> Rob, I was very careful as well but in the end you could fit a small
> animal between the door and the canopy.
> I ended up fibreglassing my doors shut and then creating and molding
> the canopy to the door with a gentle transition.
> Finally I re-cut the original opening back through. Wasted a lot of
> time on this and agonized over it way too much and in the end it was
> simple enough to fix.
> I also removed the small animal so it didn=92t suffocate because the
> doors were now airtight.
> John 40315 Cowls.
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Robert Wright
> Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:11 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Door fit
>
> All,
>
> I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am
> wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping
> everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight
> bulge on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should
> everything look perfect as a result of trimming, or should I
> naturally be expecting to add some filler between the canopy and
> doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"
>
> Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like
> masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued
> they're ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.
>
> Thoughts and pointers?
>
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> starting on door hinges
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
>
> - The RV10-List Email Forum -
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> --> http://forums.matronics.com
> - List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Infinity Grip...am I crazy? |
Here is what I have, and I love it.
Red Trigger - PTT
Hat (Up/Dn) - Elevator Trim
Hat (Left/Right) - Ailron Trim
Hat (Left/Right) while Blue Pinky switch is pressed for longer than .5 sec
onds - Rudder Trim
Top Toggle (Center Off) - Flaps
Top Green Switch - Audio Panel Com Swap
Black (Thumb) - AutoPilot Engage/Disengage
Blue (Pinky) - Com Act/Stby Swap if pressed less than .5 second.
I also have Transponder Ident wired, but I don't use it, it's j
ust an easy to hit the ident on the unit when you change a squak code.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 N519RV (352 hours on the Hobbs)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 1:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Infinity Grip...am I crazy?
So I am trying (again) to decide what buttons to put on my grip. If I unde
rstand things correctly I can do the following:
Trigger - PTT
China Hat - Trim
Top Right (use toggles w/ center off, mom - on up and down): frequency flip
flop from standby on com1 (up) and com 2 (down) via SL30 and 430
Top Left (use toggles w/ center off, mom -on up and down): screen paging o
n GRT1 and GRT 2 via GRT
Middle (NO 8632 push button) : Autopilot control wheel steering via trutrak
Bottom pinky (NO 8632 push button) : swap com1 and com2 via GMA 340
Does this seem like a good setup or is it overkill with stuff I won't use?
Also does it appear to all be doable?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
electrics - cabin top - doors- overhead console - door locks - stick grips
- panel - landing gear - engine mount
Message 6
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Subject: | Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
FWIW I had a C177RG from 1976 with a McCauley on it. As a private owner
there were no required overhauls. My prop was overhauled with first engine
overhaul in 1984. Thereafter it was resealed twice due to a "spitting" of
grease during operaton. Total time was about 3500 hours over 28 years when I
sold the aircraft and no operational problems .
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 5:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell blended airfoil performance
In a message dated 3/12/2008 11:32:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
robin1@mrmoisture.com writes:
I THINK the TBO on the BA is 6 years.
Do you know for sure that this suggested TBO date will apply to your
experimental aircraft?
_____
It's Tax Time! Get <http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001>
tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance.
Message 7
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Rob,
I spent countless hours getting the doors to fit well - and them countless
more after the seals were installed. I even had the doors painted first,
final installed seals and then filled/sanded the canopy before painting. As
my partner is working on a second plane we are thinking of using a square
rabbit in the canopy for the door edge to fit into instead of the 45 degree
angle. This would avoid the thin door edge. Anyone else done this?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting
// All,
I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering,
"Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush
while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in
relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of
trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the
canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"
Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of
the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the
paint booth after a coat of primer on.
Thoughts and pointers?
Checked by AVG.
1:27 PM
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
I'm not going to go too far out on a rant on this, but...
"We don't need TSO'd equipment, we're experimental"
"We don't need to meet that FAR 23 requirement, we're experimental"
"That requirement doesn't apply to us, we're experimental"
"We don't need to use Mil Spec parts, we're expermental"
Those kind of things really get under my skin. Sure, there is
truth and we get some good benefits being experimental, and sure
there are lots of good examples of acceptable changes to what
is common in certified planes. But, my stomach turns when
I hear people go on proclaiming how we can build "better"
planes than the certified world, and our planes are faster,
more efficient, and "safer" than certified planes. For probably
the vast majority of the builders, this simply won't be a true
statement....because they decided to cut some corner and
didn't hold themselves up to the same maintenance or
construction standard as the certified plane was built to.
This prop thing in particular?? Well, if I were buying a 4 year
old prop that had sat in a box, I'd probably figure in the
cost of having it inspected and having the o-rings replaced,
unless it had been well sealed and packaged. It's probably
going to be just fine and not need any of that. And I'm
not even saying it needs an overhaul in 2 years...I'm just
reminding everyone that most of the standards that people
have to follow in the certified world are there because
someone's blood was spilled.....and we can't really claim
our planes to be safer or better than certifieds unless
we hold ourselves to the same standards.
This message doesn't necessarily directly apply to the
issue we're discussing....it's more of a general comment.
Still stinging a little from the loss of the 2nd RV-10
pilot out of only 125-ish flying. Wonder what the long
term record will be, when we compare to the certified
world.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
GRANSCOTT@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/12/2008 11:32:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
> robin1@mrmoisture.com writes:
>
> I THINK the TBO on the BA is 6 years.
>
> Do you know for sure that this suggested TBO date will apply to your
> experimental aircraft?
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? |
That's on the throttle...
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 8:09:45 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Infinity Grip...am I crazy?
So you have a button to switch from guns to missles?
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of GenGrumpy@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Infinity Grip...am I crazy?
The really neat thing about the Infinity grip is that you can wire up each
button to do what you want it to do and not have to live with somebody else
's idea of which button should do what!
grumpy
do not archive
In a message dated 3/12/2008 3:59:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time, Tim@MyRV10
.com writes:
Yeah, they're one in the same.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Chris Johnston wrote:
> Won=99t the CWS button also disengage the AP?=C2- I=99m in
the process of
> figuring out what should control what with my stick grip.
>
It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. href="h
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics
.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.co
===========
====
=======================
==
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil |
YOU MIGHT TALK TO A PROP SHOP AND GET ANOTHER OPINION REGARDING CALENDAR TIME
ON OVERHAULS AND SHELF LIFE.
dpreston
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 9:20 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil
Randy would be the person to ask this to. ?He has the non-BA prop because it wasn't
available when he purchased. ?I think he said it is a knot to a couple of
knots max difference. ?How much is a knot worth? ?If you search the archives
you should find a post from Randy on that, if I remember correctly. ?Also remember
that you get a new BA for $6,300 that has just been built, hasn't been sitting
in a box for 4 years.
Bottom line, there is a difference, but you would have to search the archives to
find out better info on how much unless Randy is still reading this (he pops
up his head every couple of months).
do not archive because it should all be in the archives already
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 12, 2008, at 8:48 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
I've got a chance to purchase a brand new Hartzell constant speed that's
been in the box for four years for $4,500.? Standard 80" blades.?
Van's has?a new Hartzell?prop with blended air foil type blades for $6,300.?
Anyone out there know if the difference in performance between the two
is worth the additional $2,000?
Chuck?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil |
Here's a post from Randy a long time ago.
I talked a litte with Van the first day I flew and he mentioned the
prop. He said that the blended was 2 to 3 mph faster. I told him the
older prop was a cost saving item. Randy
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 12, 2008, at 11:10 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
> Thanks Jesse, but there are those of us who haven't had much luck
> with researching the archives over the years. In fact, none. This
> is my second RV. Thanks for the info though.
> Chuck
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jesse Saint
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil
>
> Randy would be the person to ask this to. He has the non-BA prop
> because it wasn't available when he purchased. I think he said it
> is a knot to a couple of knots max difference. How much is a knot
> worth? If you search the archives you should find a post from Randy
> on that, if I remember correctly. Also remember that you get a new
> BA for $6,300 that has just been built, hasn't been sitting in a box
> for 4 years.
>
> Bottom line, there is a difference, but you would have to search the
> archives to find out better info on how much unless Randy is still
> reading this (he pops up his head every couple of months).
>
> do not archive because it should all be in the archives already
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Mar 12, 2008, at 8:48 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
>> I've got a chance to purchase a brand new Hartzell constant speed
>> that's
>> been in the box for four years for $4,500. Standard 80" blades.
>> Van's has a new Hartzell prop with blended air foil type blades for
>> $6,300.
>> Anyone out there know if the difference in performance between the
>> two
>> is worth the additional $2,000?
>> Chuck
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
All valid points to ponder.
There is a middle ground with props. It is generally referred to as a
"inspect and reseal", same as any other inspect and repair as necessary.
Cost is normally less than 1/2 price of an overhaul. For a prop that has
been stored, it ensures no corrosion, good lube and good seals, and no
metal needs removal. An overhaul requires metal removal, which shortens
the life of the prop.
Kelly
Tim Olson wrote:
> I'm not going to go too far out on a rant on this, but...
>
> "That requirement doesn't apply to us, we're experimental"
>
> For probably the vast majority of the builders, this simply won't be
> a true
> statement....because they decided to cut some corner and
> didn't hold themselves up to the same maintenance or
> construction standard as the certified plane was built to.
>
> This prop thing in particular?? Well, if I were buying a 4 year
> old prop that had sat in a box, I'd probably figure in the
> cost of having it inspected and having the o-rings replaced,
> unless it had been well sealed and packaged. It's probably
> going to be just fine and not need any of that. And I'm
> not even saying it needs an overhaul in 2 years....
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil |
this got bounced last night.
Have the full report on my site if any one is interested
http://rv10builder.net/test.aspx
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil
easy searching..
http://www.matronics.com/search/
Attached is what you want however.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Weyant
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil
Thanks Jesse, but there are those of us who haven't had much luck with
researching the archives over the years. In fact, none. This is my
second RV. Thanks for the info though.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance of Hartzell Blended Airfoil
Randy would be the person to ask this to. He has the non-BA prop
because it wasn't available when he purchased. I think he said it is a
knot to a couple of knots max difference. How much is a knot worth? If
you search the archives you should find a post from Randy on that, if I
remember correctly. Also remember that you get a new BA for $6,300 that
has just been built, hasn't been sitting in a box for 4 years.
Bottom line, there is a difference, but you would have to search the
archives to find out better info on how much unless Randy is still
reading this (he pops up his head every couple of months).
do not archive because it should all be in the archives already
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 12, 2008, at 8:48 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
I've got a chance to purchase a brand new Hartzell constant speed
that's
been in the box for four years for $4,500. Standard 80" blades.
Van's has a new Hartzell prop with blended air foil type blades
for $6,300.
Anyone out there know if the difference in performance between the
two
is worth the additional $2,000?
Chuck
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
Yeah, I didn't mean to go off too much in relation to the prop.
I know that if they're cared for, heck, it should last well in
storage and be even better on the blade end than if it were
being flown. Seals go bad though. It was more of a general
thing....not so much this particular prop issue. I just
think we owe it to GA in general to always try to do our best
and not give any black eyes to our homebuilt category.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> All valid points to ponder.
> There is a middle ground with props. It is generally referred to as a
> "inspect and reseal", same as any other inspect and repair as necessary.
> Cost is normally less than 1/2 price of an overhaul. For a prop that has
> been stored, it ensures no corrosion, good lube and good seals, and no
> metal needs removal. An overhaul requires metal removal, which shortens
> the life of the prop.
> Kelly
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I'm not going to go too far out on a rant on this, but...
>>
>> "That requirement doesn't apply to us, we're experimental"
>>
>> For probably the vast majority of the builders, this simply won't be
>> a true
>> statement....because they decided to cut some corner and
>> didn't hold themselves up to the same maintenance or
>> construction standard as the certified plane was built to.
>>
>> This prop thing in particular?? Well, if I were buying a 4 year
>> old prop that had sat in a box, I'd probably figure in the
>> cost of having it inspected and having the o-rings replaced,
>> unless it had been well sealed and packaged. It's probably
>> going to be just fine and not need any of that. And I'm
>> not even saying it needs an overhaul in 2 years....
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
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Subject: | Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? |
As an option, we put one of the switches to use as a Trim Disconnect.
Press once to disconnect, again to reconnect. That way, once in cruise,
trimmed out & autopilot on, there are no worries about someone bumping
the trim switch.
Neil
On 14 Mar 2008, at 1:42, Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
> ----------- Here is what I have, and I love it.
> -
> Red Trigger ' PTT
> -
> Hat -(Up/Dn) ' Elevator Trim
> Hat -(Left/Right) ' Ailron Trim
> Hat -(Left/Right) while Blue Pinky switch is pressed for longer than
> .5 seconds ' Rudder Trim
> -
> Top Toggle (Center Off) ' Flaps
> -
> Top Green Switch ' Audio Panel Com Swap
> Black (Thumb) ' AutoPilot Engage/Disengage
> Blue (Pinky) ' Com Act/Stby Swap if pressed less than .5 second.
> -
> -
> ----------- I also have Transponder Ident wired,
but I don=92t use it,
> it=92s just an easy to hit the ident on the unit when you change a
squak
> code.
> -
> -
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 N519RV (352 hours on the Hobbs)
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 1:54 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Infinity Grip...am I crazy?
> -
> So I am trying (again) to decide what buttons to put on my grip.- If
I
> understand things correctly I can do the following:
> -
> Trigger - PTT
> -
> China Hat - Trim
> -
> Top Right (use toggles w/ center off, mom - on up and down): frequency
> flip flop from standby on com1-(up) and com 2 (down) via SL30 and
430
> -
> Top Left (use toggles w/ center off, mom -on up and down):--screen
> paging on GRT1 and GRT 2 via GRT
> -
> Middle (NO 8632 push button)-: Autopilot control wheel steering via
> trutrak
> -
> Bottom pinky (NO 8632 push button)- : swap com1-and com2 via GMA
340
> -
> Does this seem like a good setup or is it overkill with stuff I won't
> use? Also does it appear to all be doable?
> -
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
> electrics - cabin top - doors- overhead console - door locks - stick
> grips - panel - landing gear - engine mount
> -
> -
> -
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -
>
>
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Fitting the doors...certainly one of my favorite parts of the construction process.
After countless hours of trying to get a decent fit just to get them to
close (no seals yet), while the whole time my hangar mate (who's building an RV-8A)
keeps coming over and saying that they are good enough, just move on. "Go
look at a Cirrus and see the quality that they do" was his encouragement to
stop "wasting" my time. So I did and it was an eye opener. I was absolutely
amazed at not just the size of the gap, especially along the front and top edges,
but the inconsistency of the gap. It was embarrassing to think that someone
paid almost 1/2 million dollars for that kind of workmanship.
So I know that I will have a lot more work to do when I add the seals and it will
end up ten time better than the Cirrus. It doesn't have to be a paper thickness
sized gap to be functional and attractive.
Now, on to putting in the windows...I really am missing squeezing rivets!
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169583#169583
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell blended airfoil performance |
Tim,
My point being a 91 operation does not need to follow the guideline of
commercial operations...we don't do 100 hour inspections, nor are engine or prop
TBO a mandatory requirement. I agree it's prudent to do good maintenance and
be cautious/careful. You hear folks go on about engine TBO being xxxx hours,
when in reality all engine manufacturers also place a time line on the
engine for TBO along with hours and which ever occurs first is the TBO for many
chapters of operations but not 91. Not buying a prop that's been boxed and if
it's been kept in good condition because one believes that a TBO number may
apply to an experimental or a part 91 operation does not make sense to me.
You can walk down any airport and see props that have not been rebuilt or
overhauled in decades and they are perfectly good props eventhough they are beyond
TBO...then again some engines will not make it to TBO...ala the Lycoming
Crank situation.
I'm not meaning to imply that since it's an experimental to throw all good
common sense to the wind...but at least look at the part logically for the
mission and aircraft and not to put artifical limits in place that do not apply
to the plane and operation.
Heck go back to the person and explain your thinking, maybe they'll buy in
and give you the prop for $3k...
P
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
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John,
I did what you are considering, and really like the results. I did not like the
fragility of a 45 degree edge on the doors, and found the inconsistent rolled
edge on the canopy impossible to trim to. So I squared off the door edges using
the double layer of masking tape method to trim the door edges about 1/16 inch
inside the canopy edge. When fitting the doors I focused on getting the bottom
edge of each door properly aligned with the fuselage skin, as this was an
area I did not want to use flox or micro. There were spots where the door side
edges stood proud of the canopy edge, but that was OK because I knew that some
of the window edges were going to be proud of the canopy also. Once the windows
were installed, the canopy surface was built up with a flox/micro mix to
match the window and door surface and a new canopy edge was created to match the
squared off door edge. The result is a solid door edge and a nice, consistant
matching edge for the canopy door opening.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB(reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169622#169622
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jim berry wrote:
> John,
> The result is a solid door edge and a nice, consistant matching edge for the
canopy door opening.
Jim, any chance in seeing some pictures?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169632#169632
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Gary,
Sorry, I did not take any pics.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169649#169649
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Subject: | Andair/FI Fitting |
Does anyone have an Andair valve and has installed the fuel system which Va
n's sells. I am trying to figure out why I need to install this special AN
fitting in the system. Where does it go and why is it needed?
Seems like the exit port on the fuel system setup which is normally plugged
back into the standard Van's fuel selector valve could simple be put right
into the Andair valve return port. What am I missing? John G
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Can anyone forward me a 3 view drawing? I tried to get it off of Van's site
and I can't seem to make it work. Computer dummy that I am. I need it for
the FAA inspection.
Gary
40274
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I used a picture for my DAR inspection....The DAR also took pictures of
other documentation......
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 3:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 view drawing
Can anyone forward me a 3 view drawing? I tried to get it off of Van's site
and I can't seem to make it work. Computer dummy that I am. I need it for
the FAA inspection.
Gary
40274
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Subject: | Re: 3 view drawing |
Gary,
Go to www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/rv-drawings/linedrawing_rv10_3view.pdf.
Jim Berry 40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169674#169674
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Subject: | Fuel Injector Servo SB |
G'day all,
There is a service bulletin on the Precision Airmotive series of Fuel
Injectors requiring immediate attention.
http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/PEX-1.pdf refers.
I have not checked the part number of the servo delivered with my new
Lyco from Vans, but I'm pretty sure it is one of the affected items.
I don't recall seeing any posts on this issue on the list, so I thought
I would pass on the details. Apologies in advance if this is not
relevant to the fuel injection servos we have on our 540's.
Cheers,
Ron
-187 finishing (was going to install the servo tonight!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
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Subject: | Re: Andair/FI Fitting |
John, it's been a while since I did this, but I used the Andair valve
and the standard Van's supplied fuel pump/filter kit. I don't recall a
special fitting. (It may have something to do with which Andair valve
you have/ordered as they are available with several different fitting
configurations) here's a link to the photo album of that portion.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2037%20Fuel%20System/slides/DSC02794.html
there's several additional photos, just follow the controls on the page.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Does anyone have an Andair valve and has installed the fuel system
> which Van's sells. I am trying to figure out why I need to install
> this special AN fitting in the system. Where does it go and why is it
> needed?
>
> Seems like the exit port on the fuel system setup which is normally
> plugged back into the standard Van's fuel selector valve could simple
> be put right into the Andair valve return port. What am I missing?
>
> John G
>
> *
>
>
> *
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Subject: | Re: Andair/FI Fitting |
If by "special AN fitting" you mean the swivel tee, it will make your line connections
much easier.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=169701#169701
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Subject: | Re: Infinity Grip...am I crazy? |
Well that sounds just as crazy as my possible plan. ;>)
And you like it ok? and remember it all ok?
So maybe I'll press forward and see what happens - possibly with yet
another configuration before I actually order.
Thanks to all for the replies on the set ups!
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 8:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Infinity Grip...am I crazy?
Here is what I have, and I love it.
Red Trigger - PTT
Hat (Up/Dn) - Elevator Trim
Hat (Left/Right) - Ailron Trim
Hat (Left/Right) while Blue Pinky switch is pressed for longer than
.5 seconds - Rudder Trim
Top Toggle (Center Off) - Flaps
Top Green Switch - Audio Panel Com Swap
Black (Thumb) - AutoPilot Engage/Disengage
Blue (Pinky) - Com Act/Stby Swap if pressed less than .5 second.
I also have Transponder Ident wired, but I don't use it,
it's just an easy to hit the ident on the unit when you change a squak
code.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 N519RV (352 hours on the Hobbs)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 1:54 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Infinity Grip...am I crazy?
So I am trying (again) to decide what buttons to put on my grip. If I
understand things correctly I can do the following:
Trigger - PTT
China Hat - Trim
Top Right (use toggles w/ center off, mom - on up and down): frequency
flip flop from standby on com1 (up) and com 2 (down) via SL30 and 430
Top Left (use toggles w/ center off, mom -on up and down): screen
paging on GRT1 and GRT 2 via GRT
Middle (NO 8632 push button) : Autopilot control wheel steering via
trutrak
Bottom pinky (NO 8632 push button) : swap com1 and com2 via GMA 340
Does this seem like a good setup or is it overkill with stuff I won't
use? Also does it appear to all be doable?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
electrics - cabin top - doors- overhead console - door locks - stick
grips - panel - landing gear - engine mount
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Robert,
Someone wrote before that "the fit is right when you are tired of
sanding and re-filling and sanding" perhaps that was Deems. I made a
couple of mods to the process for initial fit.
1) I glued (with super glue) two strips of trimmed door glass to the
outside of the door, fore and aft where the two protruding alignment
tabs are. I match drilled through the tabs into the glued on piece.
THen I cut the tabs off. That allowed the door to begin its journey
into flush fit with the canopy. As I took the door on and off it would
go pretty much right back to where it was every time. See photo.
2) After I got the fit pretty darn good I mixed a thick epoxy/flox and
spread it over the door and cabin top at the joint until I had a nice
surface together. I did this just in a couple of areas that were
troublesome. This mixture would not flow at all and this was with hinges
on but no door seal. I then lifted the door open slightly so it wouldn't
all glue together. Yes, it did pull a little ridge of the mix up but
not much if done careful.
After it dried I just knocked of the ridge with the sanding block and I
have a razor like fit. This is with a 45 degree style door. I also
coated the 45 degree portion of the door with pure epoxy to give it
durability.
I'll revisit the fit with the door seals on, those just arrived . I am
trying the ones from Aviation Tech Products.
The alignment tabs supe glued on are easy to pop right off and then sand
away the residue. Don't need much glue either just a couple drops.
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Wright
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door fit
All,
I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am
wondering, "Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping
everything flush while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge
on one door in relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look
perfect as a result of trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to
add some filler between the canopy and doors to make everything smooth
and ready for paint?"
Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like
masters of the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're
ready for the paint booth after a coat of primer on.
Thoughts and pointers?
Rob Wright
#392
starting on door hinges
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
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Subject: | Fuel Injector Servo SB |
Checked my injector servo at lunch time (straight out of the box, not
yet installed). Although the plug was lockwired it was clearly loose.
Since the only heat my engine has been exposed to is the test run
conducted at the factory, shrinkage of the seal with heat is not the
only problem here. I doubt the plug was properly torqued at the factory
before delivery.
check those servos!!
cheers,
Ron
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Friday, 14 March 2008 8:55 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Servo SB
G'day all,
There is a service bulletin on the Precision Airmotive series of
Fuel Injectors requiring immediate attention.
http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/PEX-1.pdf
<http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/PEX-1.pdf> refers.
I have not checked the part number of the servo delivered with
my new Lyco from Vans, but I'm pretty sure it is one of the affected
items.
I don't recall seeing any posts on this issue on the list, so I
thought I would pass on the details. Apologies in advance if this is
not relevant to the fuel injection servos we have on our 540's.
Cheers,
Ron
-187 finishing (was going to install the servo tonight!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
email to
your computer."
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
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Subject: | Fuel Injector Servo SB |
This is the FAA AD Ron is referring to in case some of you don't have the
info through the mail yet..
I could say something with regards experimental and some earlier comments
but I'll resist :-)
John 40315.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Friday, 14 March 2008 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Servo SB
Checked my injector servo at lunch time (straight out of the box, not yet
installed). Although the plug was lockwired it was clearly loose. Since
the only heat my engine has been exposed to is the test run conducted at the
factory, shrinkage of the seal with heat is not the only problem here. I
doubt the plug was properly torqued at the factory before delivery.
check those servos!!
cheers,
Ron
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Friday, 14 March 2008 8:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Servo SB
G'day all,
There is a service bulletin on the Precision Airmotive series of Fuel
Injectors requiring immediate attention.
<http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/PEX-1.pdf>
http://www.precisionairmotive.com/Publications/PEX-1.pdf refers.
I have not checked the part number of the servo delivered with my new Lyco
from Vans, but I'm pretty sure it is one of the affected items.
I don't recall seeing any posts on this issue on the list, so I thought I
would pass on the details. Apologies in advance if this is not relevant to
the fuel injection servos we have on our 540's.
Cheers,
Ron
-187 finishing (was going to install the servo tonight!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
.matronics.com/contribution
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
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Hi Indran, good to see you're still plugging away.
I suppose I should clarify what I meant by "small animal" in case someone
gets the idea it's O.K to have a gap the size of a beaver.
My gap was more like 4 to 5mm at the worst spot.
For what it's worth, the fit was good prior to the window installation.
John 40315
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door fit
Now we all come out of hiding...
The gap between my first set of doors & the canopy was more than the
allowable small animal.
Have recently taken delivery of a new set of door shells. The local FG
aeroplane guru will be supervising the second set over Easter - has already
suggested many changes to the procedure in the Van's manual, such as
clecoing the shells all the way around the perimeter; heat gun to remove any
bending stress before joining; and totally ignoring the preformed dimples.
As a side note, the new pink layups are better surface quality than the old
green ones.
Will post more info (&pics) when doors done.
Indran
#228 - soon to be a four door RV10
On 13/03/2008, at 3:55 PM, John Dunne wrote:
Rob, I was very careful as well but in the end you could fit a small animal
between the door and the canopy.
I ended up fibreglassing my doors shut and then creating and molding the
canopy to the door with a gentle transition.
Finally I re-cut the original opening back through. Wasted a lot of time on
this and agonized over it way too much and in the end it was simple enough
to fix.
I also removed the small animal so it didn't suffocate because the doors
were now airtight.
John 40315 Cowls.
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From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Wright
Sent: Thursday, 13 March 2008 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door fit
All,
I've been looking at the way my doors fit to the canopy and am wondering,
"Since I did as good a job as I could, including clamping everything flush
while the epoxy set, then why do I have a slight bulge on one door in
relation to the canopy," and, "should everything look perfect as a result of
trimming, or should I naturally be expecting to add some filler between the
canopy and doors to make everything smooth and ready for paint?"
Reading through other websites, they're written up to seem like masters of
the fiberglass trimming, and once trimmed and glued they're ready for the
paint booth after a coat of primer on.
Thoughts and pointers?
Rob Wright
#392
starting on door hinges
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