Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:47 AM - Re: Trimming cowl inlets (gary)
2. 06:32 AM - Re: Trimming cowl inlets (Rick Sked)
3. 06:53 AM - No takers? (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
4. 07:01 AM - Re: No takers? (orchidman)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Trimming cowl inlets (Tim Olson)
6. 07:17 AM - Re: No takers? (Tim Olson)
7. 07:17 AM - Re: No takers? (Rob Kermanj)
8. 07:17 AM - Re: No takers? (Jesse Saint)
9. 07:20 AM - Re: Trimming cowl inlets (gary)
10. 07:25 AM - Airwolf remote filter (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 07:29 AM - ECI Oil Filter Adapter With B&C SD-20 Alternator (tgesele@optonline.net)
12. 08:06 AM - Re: No takers? (linn Walters)
13. 08:06 AM - Re: Airwolf remote filter (linn Walters)
14. 08:15 AM - Re: ECI Oil Filter Adapter With B&C SD-20 Alternator (bcondrey)
15. 08:43 AM - Re: No takers? (Robin Marks)
16. 09:07 AM - Re: No takers? (Rob Kermanj)
17. 09:27 AM - Re: No takers? (Tim Olson)
18. 09:31 AM - Re: No takers? (John Jessen)
19. 09:49 AM - Re: No takers? (Rob Kermanj)
20. 09:53 AM - Re: No takers? (Rob Kermanj)
21. 10:02 AM - Re: Airwolf remote filter (Pascal)
22. 10:20 AM - Re: No takers? (Tim Olson)
23. 10:44 AM - Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring (jim berry)
24. 11:11 AM - Re: Airwolf remote filter (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
25. 11:14 AM - Re: Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring (Pascal)
26. 01:28 PM - Re: axle extension group buy-revisited (rivethead aero product) (tomhanaway)
27. 05:20 PM - Re: Airwolf remote filter (nicholscatoauto@aol.com)
28. 05:44 PM - Re: Airwolf remote filter (PJ Seipel)
29. 06:44 PM - fiberglass primer (David McNeill)
30. 07:06 PM - Re: fiberglass primer (Deems Davis)
31. 07:12 PM - Re: fiberglass primer (Rene)
32. 08:21 PM - Re: Airwolf remote filter (linn Walters)
33. 09:18 PM - Re: N263DL First Flight (AirMike)
34. 09:24 PM - Re: fiberglass primer (AirMike)
35. 09:31 PM - Re: Hartzel prop (AirMike)
36. 10:18 PM - Re: Re: Hartzel prop (John Dunne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Trimming cowl inlets |
I would wait with the trimming until you have your baffling in place. Then
trim to 2" or even less to make for a smooth transition with your baffle
ramp. It is not a hard dimension so keep trimming until you like the result
and can get your baffle material to lay flat.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
Since the cowl is all fitted, the only thing left to do is trim the cowl
inlets to the 2" depth Vans specifies in the plans...now for the question.
Does the entire inlet get trimmed two inches from the front edge? The plans
seem vague and lean towards only the outer edge...which doesn't make sense.
And while I have everyone's undivided attention...I assume it is from the
face of the inlet they are telling us to measure back two inches?
Rick Sked
40185
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming cowl inlets |
Thamks Gary,
Does that 2" remain pretty constant all the way arounfd the inside. It look
s like the area by the spinner needs to be deeper than 2".
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 5:42:36 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
I would wait with the trimming until you have your baffling in place.=C2-
Then trim to 2=9D or even less to make for a smooth transition with
your baffle ramp.=C2- It is not a hard dimension so keep trimming until y
ou like the result and can get your baffle material to lay flat.
Gary
40274
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
Since the cowl is all fitted, the only thing left to do is trim the cowl in
lets to the 2" depth Vans specifies in the plans...now for the question. Do
es the entire inlet get trimmed two inches from the front edge? The plans s
eem vague and lean towards only the outer edge...which doesn't make sense.
And while I have everyone's undivided attention...I assume it is from the f
ace of the inlet they are telling us to measure back two inches? =C2- Ric
=========
====
=======================
==
Message 3
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No nibbles on this question from the other day?
For the folks who are flying:
How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
warranted?
Inquiring minds want to know . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 4
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tdawson-townsend(at)auror wrote:
> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
They must all be snowed in and can't get the hanger doors open [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172757#172757
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming cowl inlets |
It's definitely not consistent. I don't remember exactly how I
started, but Gary's right...you want to get the baffling where you
think it should be and then basically do the cutout to blend
with the baffling and provide good laydown for the rubber seals.
It really isn't too bad of a project once you get going.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick Sked wrote:
> Thamks Gary,
>
> Does that 2" remain pretty constant all the way arounfd the inside. It
> looks like the area by the spinner needs to be deeper than 2".
>
> Rick Sked
>
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 5:42:36 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
>
> I would wait with the trimming until you have your baffling in place.
> Then trim to 2 or even less to make for a smooth transition with your
> baffle ramp. It is not a hard dimension so keep trimming until you like
> the result and can get your baffle material to lay flat.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 40274
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Sked
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:55 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
>
>
>
>
>
> Since the cowl is all fitted, the only thing left to do is trim the cowl inlets
to the 2" depth Vans specifies in the plans...now for the question.
>
> Does the entire inlet get trimmed two inches from the front edge? The plans seem
vague and lean towards only the outer edge...which doesn't make sense.
>
> And while I have everyone's undivided attention...I assume it is from the face
of the inlet they are telling us to measure back two inches?
>
>
>
> Rick Sked
>
> 40185
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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I know I've seen people with the new ones that the aluminum
formed a taper in that bearing inner race. Given the
idea that it can loosen up, I'd think the safe thing to
do is to prevent the rotation altogether as a preeptive
step so you don't have a problem.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>
>
>
> *For the folks who are flying:*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are
> installations*
>
> *with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are*
>
> *supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still*
>
> *warranted?*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *Inquiring minds want to know . . .*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *TDT*
>
>
Message 7
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Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed
a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers.
This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this
site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the
most part. You still go through some shimmy before you stop it.
My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out
why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think)
everything that has been published. The set screws did make a
remarkable difference.
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>
> For the folks who are flying:
>
>
> How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
> with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
> supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
> warranted?
>
>
> Inquiring minds want to know . . .
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> Aurora Flight Sciences
> tdt@aurora.aero
> 617-500-4812 (office)
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
Message 8
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OK, I'll bite. In the retrofits I have done I have had to shorten the
axle a little bit on the lathe to make it a tight fit so the spacers
don't spin. I think on the new setups the length of the whole system
is better, but I don't know for sure.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 26, 2008, at 8:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>
> For the folks who are flying:
>
>
> How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
> with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
> supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
> warranted?
>
>
> Inquiring minds want to know . . .
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> Aurora Flight Sciences
> tdt@aurora.aero
> 617-500-4812 (office)
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Trimming cowl inlets |
Just make it look pretty. Mine varies all the way around.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
Thamks Gary,
Does that 2" remain pretty constant all the way arounfd the inside. It looks
like the area by the spinner needs to be deeper than 2".
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 5:42:36 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
I would wait with the trimming until you have your baffling in place. Then
trim to 2" or even less to make for a smooth transition with your baffle
ramp. It is not a hard dimension so keep trimming until you like the result
and can get your baffle material to lay flat.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming cowl inlets
Since the cowl is all fitted, the only thing left to do is trim the cowl
inlets to the 2" depth Vans specifies in the plans...now for the question.
Does the entire inlet get trimmed two inches from the front edge? The plans
seem vague and lean towards only the outer edge...which doesn't make sense.
And while I have everyone's undivided attention...I assume it is from the
face of the inlet they are telling us to measure back two inches?
Rick Sked
40185
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 10
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| Subject: | Airwolf remote filter |
So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the oil fi
lters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on that? Is th
ere enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote mount to put it i
n a much more accessible location? I don't think there is a whole lot of p
rice difference between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf remote mount.
http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx
Michael
Message 11
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| Subject: | ECI Oil Filter Adapter With B&C SD-20 Alternator |
I'm attempting to install the B&C SD-20 Alternator on a Mattituck TMX IO-540 with
the ECI oil filter adapter that puts the filter at the 10 o'clock position.
Has anyone installed this combination and, if so, what was required to resolve
the interference issue?
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #40473 - FWF
Message 12
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The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as the
shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening the nut on
the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel axle (off the
ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free.
As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance or an
out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a contributing
factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when spun by hand should
be good.
Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which has
a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
Linn
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed
> a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers.
> This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this
> site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the
> most part. You still go through some shimmy before you stop it.
>
> My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out
> why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think)
> everything that has been published. The set screws did make a
> remarkable difference.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
>> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>>
>> For the folks who are flying:
>>
>>
>> How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
>> with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
>> supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
>> warranted?
>>
>>
>> Inquiring minds want to know . . .
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>>
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>> Aurora Flight Sciences
>> tdt@aurora.aero <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>
>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>>
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>>style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Airwolf remote filter |
NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter.
Linn
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the
> oil filters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on
> that? Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote
> mount to put it in a much more accessible location? I don't think
> there is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and
> the Airwolf remote mount.
>
>
>
> http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: ECI Oil Filter Adapter With B&C SD-20 Alternator |
I have the B&C angled oil filter adapter with the SD-20 and had to get a special
adapter for the SD-20 which moved it aft about 1/2-5/8". Bill at B&C can tell
you exactly what you need. As I recall it consisted of replacement studs for
the vacuum pad (longer), a spacer and a replacement sheer coupling for the
SD-20.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172777#172777
Message 15
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Rob,
I don't think pushing forward on the stick is the proper
way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that that is a
mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience on never wants
to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my 6A we keep the
wheel off the ground as long as we have authority and then the stick is
back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same is true when I took a demo
ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. He starts the 10 with the stick
full back and does not release it till Run Up. Same with his taxi back.
Now the A model Vans are known for their less than Cessna like gear
durability but properly flown there should never see a problem. Adding
greater forces by pushing the stick forward is not a solution to the
shimmy.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers?
The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as the
shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening the nut on
the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel axle (off the
ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free.
As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance or an
out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a contributing
factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when spun by hand should
be good.
Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which has
a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
Linn
Rob Kermanj wrote:
Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed a
flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers. This
helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this site to
push the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the most
part. You still go through some shimmy before you stop it.
My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out why
I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think)
everything that has been published. The set screws did make a
remarkable difference.
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
No nibbles on this question from the other day?
For the folks who are flying:
How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
warranted?
Inquiring minds want to know . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 16
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I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take the
weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated.
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Rob,
> I don=92t think pushing forward on the stick is the
> proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that
> that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience
> on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my
> 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority and
> then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same is
> true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. He
> starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release it till
> Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are known for
> their less than Cessna like gear durability but properly flown there
> should never see a problem. Adding greater forces by pushing the
> stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy.
>
> Good luck,
> Robin
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of linn Walters
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers?
>
> The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as
> the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening
> the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel
> axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free.
>
> As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance
> or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a
> contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when
> spun by hand should be good.
>
> Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which
> has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
> Linn
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I
> filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the
> spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I
> learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy
> and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy
> before you stop it.
>
> My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out
> why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think)
> everything that has been published. The set screws did make a
> remarkable difference.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>
> For the folks who are flying:
>
>
> How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
> with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
> supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
> warranted?
>
>
> Inquiring minds want to know . . .
>
>
> TDT
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
> Aurora Flight Sciences
> tdt@aurora.aero
> 617-500-4812 (office)
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://
> forums.matronics.com==================
=http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 17
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Sorry Rob....I have bought a tire balancer that I've been intending
to use and do a write up on, but I'm just apologizing for it taking
me months over the winter. I'll let you know if it helps a lot.
I'll possibly replace my tires this spring too...now that I've hit
325 hours. I got better ones this time than the standard ones.
Wish I could try Scott's fancy goodyears though. :) My guess is
that tire roundness and balance could be affecting you if it's
that bad....or at least that your side to side axle yoke preload
is too loose, or your axle bolt is too loose. My only shimmy
seems to happen between 35 and 40kts. Except I do think I get
some main gear shimmy that I'm hoping can be taken care of by the
balance and tires. This spring I'll report back. Nothing I
have right now though is severe or overly concerning.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take the
> weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>> Rob,
>> I dont think pushing forward on the stick is the
>> proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that
>> that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience on
>> never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my 6A we
>> keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority and then
>> the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same is true when
>> I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10. He starts the
>> 10 with the stick full back and does not release it till Run Up. Same
>> with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are known for their less
>> than Cessna like gear durability but properly flown there should never
>> see a problem. Adding greater forces by pushing the stick forward is
>> not a solution to the shimmy.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Robin
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *linn Walters
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: No takers?
>>
>> The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as
>> the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening the
>> nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel axle (off
>> the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy free.
>>
>> As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance or
>> an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a
>> contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when spun
>> by hand should be good.
>>
>> Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which
>> has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
>> Linn
>>
>> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>
>> Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed
>> a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers.
>> This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this
>> site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the
>> most part. You still go through some shimmy before you stop it.
>>
>> My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out
>> why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think)
>> everything that has been published. The set screws did make a
>> remarkable difference.
>>
>> Rob.
>>
>> On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>>
>> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>>
>> *For the folks who are flying:*
>> * *
>> * *
>> *How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations*
>> *with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are*
>> *supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still*
>> *warranted?*
>> * *
>> * *
>> *Inquiring minds want to know . . .*
>> * *
>> * *
>> *TDT*
>>
>>
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>> Aurora Flight Sciences
>> tdt@aurora.aero <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>
>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> *blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com*
>> *style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>> * *
>>
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com===================http://www.matronics.com/c
>> * *
>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>> ** <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 18
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It's almost as if you have a harmonic going on, onset perhaps by an out of
round tire? Which I'm sure you've already checked. Too light a tire? If
everything else is as it should be, I'd be looking for something inherent in
the wheel or tire. Does it shimmy with pants on and off? Just fishing
here.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers?
I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take the weight
off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated.
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
Rob,
I don't think pushing forward on the stick is the proper way
to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that that is a mask for
the real issues. In all my RV flying experience on never wants to add more
weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my 6A we keep the wheel off the ground
as long as we have authority and then the stick is back in my lap the entire
time I taxi. Same is true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the
factory 10. He starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release
it till Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are known for
their less than Cessna like gear durability but properly flown there should
never see a problem. Adding greater forces by pushing the stick forward is
not a solution to the shimmy.
Good luck,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers?
The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as the
shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening the nut on the
nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel axle (off the ground of
course) should make the nose gear shimmy free.
As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance or an
out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a contributing factor
..... less than one rotation of the tire when spun by hand should be good.
Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which has a
similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
Linn
Rob Kermanj wrote:
Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I filed a
flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the spacers. This
helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I learned on this site to push
the stick forward to stop the shimmy and it works for the most part. You
still go through some shimmy before you stop it.
My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure out why I
still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I think) everything
that has been published. The set screws did make a remarkable difference.
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
No nibbles on this question from the other day?
For the folks who are flying:
How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
warranted?
Inquiring minds want to know . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=============
=====http://www.matronics.com/c= <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 19
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Thanks again. It is incredible how much experience and tips people
provide on this list!
I had not looked into the tire or the wheel pants. I will do both soon.
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 12:27 PM, John Jessen wrote:
> It's almost as if you have a harmonic going on, onset perhaps by an
> out of round tire? Which I'm sure you've already checked. Too
> light a tire? If everything else is as it should be, I'd be looking
> for something inherent in the wheel or tire. Does it shimmy with
> pants on and off? Just fishing here.
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers?
>
> I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take
> the weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>> Rob,
>> I don=92t think pushing forward on the stick is the
>> proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that
>> that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience
>> on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In my
>> 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have authority
>> and then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I taxi. Same
>> is true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the factory 10.
>> He starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not release it
>> till Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model Vans are
>> known for their less than Cessna like gear durability but
>> properly flown there should never see a problem. Adding greater
>> forces by pushing the stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy.
>> Good luck,
>> Robin
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> ] On Behalf Of linn Walters
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: No takers?
>> The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined as
>> the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by tightening
>> the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on the wheel
>> axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose gear shimmy
>> free.
>>
>> As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance
>> or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a
>> contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when
>> spun by hand should be good.
>>
>> Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B which
>> has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
>> Linn
>>
>> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>
>> Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I
>> filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the
>> spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I
>> learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy
>> and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy
>> before you stop it.
>> My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure
>> out why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I
>> think) everything that has been published. The set screws did make
>> a remarkable difference.
>> Rob.
>> On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>>
>> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>> For the folks who are flying:
>> How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are installations
>> with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are
>> supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still
>> warranted?
>> Inquiring minds want to know . . .
>> TDT
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>> Aurora Flight Sciences
>> tdt@aurora.aero
>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://
>> forums.matronics.com=================
==http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline;
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 20
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My situation seems to be exactly like yours: low speed, not severe
and manageable. I had someone on the ground check the vibration and
they told me that it is definitely from the nose wheel.
I also have really nice lateral fit on the axel and nothing is loose
at all. If you do your balancing and get good results, let me know.
What kind of balancer do you have?
Rob.
On Mar 26, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Sorry Rob....I have bought a tire balancer that I've been intending
> to use and do a write up on, but I'm just apologizing for it taking
> me months over the winter. I'll let you know if it helps a lot.
> I'll possibly replace my tires this spring too...now that I've hit
> 325 hours. I got better ones this time than the standard ones.
> Wish I could try Scott's fancy goodyears though. :) My guess is
> that tire roundness and balance could be affecting you if it's
> that bad....or at least that your side to side axle yoke preload
> is too loose, or your axle bolt is too loose. My only shimmy
> seems to happen between 35 and 40kts. Except I do think I get
> some main gear shimmy that I'm hoping can be taken care of by the
> balance and tires. This spring I'll report back. Nothing I
> have right now though is severe or overly concerning.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> I agree Robin but I am at the end of my rope. If I relax or take
>> the weight off the nose wheel, the shimmy get more aggravated.
>> Rob.
>> On Mar 26, 2008, at 11:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>> Rob,
>>> I dont think pushing forward on the stick is the
>>> proper way to resolve the shimmy. It may help but my guess is that
>>> that is a mask for the real issues. In all my RV flying experience
>>> on never wants to add more weight / forces to the nose wheel. In
>>> my 6A we keep the wheel off the ground as long as we have
>>> authority and then the stick is back in my lap the entire time I
>>> taxi. Same is true when I took a demo ride with Mike Seager in the
>>> factory 10. He starts the 10 with the stick full back and does not
>>> release it till Run Up. Same with his taxi back. Now the A model
>>> Vans are known for their less than Cessna like gear durability but
>>> properly flown there should never see a problem. Adding greater
>>> forces by pushing the stick forward is not a solution to the shimmy.
>>> Good luck,
>>> Robin
>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>>> *linn Walters
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:03 AM
>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: No takers?
>>> The axle rotation won't have anything to do with shimmy, defined
>>> as the shopping cart wobble back and forth. Fix that by
>>> tightening the nut on the nose gear tube. A 25-30 pound pull on
>>> the wheel axle (off the ground of course) should make the nose
>>> gear shimmy free.
>>>
>>> As for wheel hop ..... an up and down vibration ..... tire balance
>>> or an out-of-round tire will cause that. Bearing preload is a
>>> contributing factor ..... less than one rotation of the tire when
>>> spun by hand should be good.
>>>
>>> Now, a caveat here .... my info comes from adjusting my AA-1B
>>> which has a similar castering nosegear. Should work for an RV-10.
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim, I got the updated spacer and still had shimmy problems. I
>>> filed a flat spot on the axel and installed two set screws on the
>>> spacers. This helped a lot but I still experience shimmy. I
>>> learned on this site to push the stick forward to stop the shimmy
>>> and it works for the most part. You still go through some shimmy
>>> before you stop it.
>>> My nose wheel is nice a tight without any slop. I cannot figure
>>> out why I still experience some shimmy. I have done (at least I
>>> think) everything that has been published. The set screws did
>>> make a remarkable difference.
>>> Rob.
>>> On Mar 26, 2008, at 9:50 AM, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>>>
>>> No nibbles on this question from the other day?
>>> *For the folks who are flying:*
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> *How about an update on the nose gear axle spacers? Are
>>> installations*
>>> *with the "new" aluminum spacers working well as designed, or are*
>>> *supplemental measures to ensure the spacers can't rotate still*
>>> *warranted?*
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> *Inquiring minds want to know . . .*
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> *TDT*
>>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>>> Aurora Flight Sciences
>>> tdt@aurora.aero <mailto:tdt@aurora.aero>
>>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>> *blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com*
>>> *style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> * *
>>> http://www.matronic - MATRONICS available via the Web
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://
>>> forums.matronics.com===================http://www.matronics.com/c
>>> * *
>>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>> ** <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>> *
>> *
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Airwolf remote filter |
recall the part# by any chance?
Thx
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter.
Linn
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the
oil filters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on
that? Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote
mount to put it in a much more accessible location? I don't think there
is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and the
Airwolf remote mount.
http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.as
px
Michael
Message 22
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The balancer I have is a motorcycle tire balancer that I got
with the proper sized cones for these tires. I'll have to
dig up pictures for the write up. Vic bought one that was
slightly different that also would do just as well. I think
it was around $100 but don't quote me on that.
Also, as others mentioned wheel fairings....I did actually
balance at least my nose fairing. I balanced a ziplock
bag of lead shot taped to the nose when I first made them,
and then I poured the lead into the inside of the nose cap
and epoxied it in place. Probably should have left it in
the ziplock and epoxied the whole thing in place.
Anyway, I balanced the nose. I don't think I did the mains
but some day this spring maybe I'll do that just for
good measure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
> My situation seems to be exactly like yours: low speed, not severe and
> manageable. I had someone on the ground check the vibration and they
> told me that it is definitely from the nose wheel.
>
> I also have really nice lateral fit on the axel and nothing is loose at
> all. If you do your balancing and get good results, let me know.
>
> What kind of balancer do you have?
>
>
> Rob.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring |
Pascal,
My Stein-built harness is 18' long for the pitch servo, and 22' long for the roll
servo.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172820#172820
Message 24
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| Subject: | Airwolf remote filter |
No and the website seems to be a bit flakey at the moment. I know it was l
ess than $500 and the adapter simply spun on in place of the existing filte
r.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
recall the part# by any chance?
Thx
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters<mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter.
Linn
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the oil fi
lters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on that? Is th
ere enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote mount to put it i
n a much more accessible location? I don't think there is a whole lot of p
rice difference between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf remote mount.
http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
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Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring |
thank you!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Digiflight II autopilot wiring
>
> Pascal,
>
> My Stein-built harness is 18' long for the pitch servo, and 22' long for
> the roll servo.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172820#172820
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: axle extension group buy-revisited (rivethead aero product) |
thanks to everyone for comments and offers. I ended up following Dave's advice
and ordering from Cleaveland Tools.
Already on their way.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172851#172851
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Airwolf remote filter |
I looked on my Napa Pro link site and they have a remote oil filter kit Part
# BK 7354713 it looks like what you may be talking about. My pro link has p
ictures of the kit .=C2- It includes a spin on adapter, a housing to remot
e mount, brass fittings and cut to length hose. The kit was less the $100.00
-----Original Message-----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 12:07 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
No and the website seems to be a bit flakey at the moment.=C2- I know it w
as less than $500 and the adapter simply spun on in place of the existing fi
lter.
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
=C2-
recall the part# by any chance?
=C2-
Thx
=C2-
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
=C2-
NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter.
Linn
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the oil fil
ters but what about just remote mounting it?=C2- Any thoughts on that?=C2
- Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote mount to
put it in a much more accessible location?=C2- I don=99t think there
is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf r
emote mount.
http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx
Michael
=C2-
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Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Airwolf remote filter |
I installed the Airwolf remote filter. I put it on the right side of the
firewall near the top. Definitely expensive, especially if you buy good
hoses (it doesn't come with any), but changing the filter should be much
easier.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for the
> oil filters but what about just remote mounting it? Any thoughts on
> that? Is there enough room on the firewall to use the Airwolf remote
> mount to put it in a much more accessible location? I dont think
> there is a whole lot of price difference between the 90 adapter and
> the Airwolf remote mount.
>
> http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx
>
> Michael
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 29
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| Subject: | fiberglass primer |
To protect the fiberglass parts (canopy, cowl and tail fairing) during the
fly off, what paint has been used?
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass primer |
I've noticed that some folks haven't used anything. If you do decide to
do something you should check with your painter to make sure you're not
going to make life harder for them (and more expensive for
you).Polyfiber UV SmoothPrime is what a lot of folks use for pin-hole
and weave filling. it's also a UV barrier, and is compatible with almost
all paint systems. If you go this route, call me, and I'll give you a
name of someone who carries it in PHX. (It's NOT cheap)
Deems
David McNeill wrote:
>
> To protect the fiberglass parts (canopy, cowl and tail fairing) during
> the fly off, what paint has been used?
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 31
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| Subject: | fiberglass primer |
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/09-28290.php>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/09-28290.php
Here is what I used.
Rene'
N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fiberglass primer
To protect the fiberglass parts (canopy, cowl and tail fairing) during the
fly off, what paint has been used?
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Airwolf remote filter |
Sorry Pascal ..... too long ago, and if I remember correctly, there
isn't a number on the casting. I just asked at the parts counter.
Linn
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
> recall the part# by any chance?
>
> Thx
>
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: linn Walters <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:04 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Airwolf remote filter
>
> NAPA has a nice remote mounted filter adapter.
> Linn
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>> So I see a lot of discussions around the right angle adapter for
>> the oil filters but what about just remote mounting it? Any
>> thoughts on that? Is there enough room on the firewall to use
>> the Airwolf remote mount to put it in a much more accessible
>> location? I don't think there is a whole lot of price difference
>> between the 90 adapter and the Airwolf remote mount.
>>
>> http://www.airwolf.com/Products/OilFilterKitsStandard/tabid/59/Default.aspx
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: N263DL First Flight |
Eloquently stated and a job well done- congrats
Still in FG purgatory
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172948#172948
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass primer |
i will probably wind up buying this stuff from Spruce, but has anyone found a Urethane
topcoat-compatible primer that is cheaper.
Also, do I need more than one quart to do the RV10 top?
Thanks for your answers in advance
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172952#172952
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzel prop |
English interpretation? [Rolling Eyes]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172955#172955
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzel prop |
Sorry Mike, I meant to add a note for David's benefit that one of the places
that list any restrictions on a prop/engine combination is in the
application data.
Under the section, "placard/restr:" you will usually find data (if any)
relating to limitations on power settings and or rpm values and max time for
continuous operations at certain settings.
John 40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Thursday, 27 March 2008 2:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzel prop
English interpretation? [Rolling Eyes]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172955#172955
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