Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:27 AM - Re: Re: fiberglass primer (John Testement)
2. 10:20 AM - Heater cable mounting (orchidman)
3. 10:41 AM - Re: Heater cable mounting (Rick Sked)
4. 10:48 AM - Re: Heater cable mounting (Rene Felker)
5. 11:15 AM - Re: Heater cable mounting (Tim Olson)
6. 11:17 AM - IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears (Nick Leonard)
7. 11:23 AM - Re: Heater cable mounting (David Hertner)
8. 11:39 AM - Re: Heater cable mounting (Deems Davis)
9. 12:01 PM - Re: Heater cable mounting (David Hertner)
10. 12:35 PM - Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears (Jesse Saint)
11. 01:58 PM - Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears (Nick Leonard)
12. 01:58 PM - Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer (dmaib@mac.com)
13. 02:14 PM - Re: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears (Rhonda Bewley)
14. 02:59 PM - Re: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears (Rick Sked)
15. 03:14 PM - Replacing the plastic brake lines... (Chris Johnston)
16. 03:40 PM - Re: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears (Kevin Belue)
17. 03:49 PM - Re: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer (Carl Froehlich)
18. 04:05 PM - Re: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer (PJ Seipel)
19. 04:38 PM - Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... (Marcus Cooper)
20. 04:52 PM - Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... (Rick Sked)
21. 05:21 PM - Adding Air to Main Tires (Robin Marks)
22. 05:56 PM - Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... (Jerry Calvert)
23. 07:50 PM - Re: Adding Air to Main Tires (Jesse Saint)
24. 08:26 PM - Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... (Bob Leffler)
25. 09:38 PM - Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... (Larry Rosen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass primer |
Mike,
I would not apply a primer until you know the paint system that your painter
will use. The primer should be part of the same system. The UV Smoothprime
is good under any paint system.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 12:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: fiberglass primer
i will probably wind up buying this stuff from Spruce, but has anyone found
a Urethane topcoat-compatible primer that is cheaper.
Also, do I need more than one quart to do the RV10 top?
Thanks for your answers in advance
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=172952#172952
Checked by AVG.
7:17 PM
Checked by AVG.
7:17 PM
Message 2
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| Subject: | Heater cable mounting |
I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control
cables.
Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the
forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have
the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these
cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall,
through the firewall on to its final destination.
So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange,
I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install
the cables the rest of the way.
Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed
under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want
to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make
a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final
install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach
the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done.
How are others handling this?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Heater cable mounting |
You want that bracket fairly stout, those push/pull cables should be called yank/slam
cables but they do wear in a bit. I was in the same boat with mine, mine
are panel mounted and I had to wait till the panel was in to route them. It
was not really a big deal, but I have to tell you that upside dwon under the panel
is not real fun but you can do it. Don't forget the cable clamp the holds
the cables just before they exit the firewall. Put your Bowden clamps on the
heater boxes before you install them. MUCH EASIER. Keep the inner steel cable
in the outer when routing them, only pull them back far enough to cut the outer
cable...they can be a B*t$h if not inpossible to reinstall without loosening
up the clamps, they don't like to slide into the curved sections, the tip digs
into the liner. I did mine with the engine hung, oiler cooler on took me an
afternoon and I have the battle scars to show it. Buuuuuuut, It's done now and
like everything else, seemed like a pain then, but now that it's finished, wasn't
too bad.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:16:52 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Heater cable mounting
I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control
cables.
Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the
forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have
the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these
cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall,
through the firewall on to its final destination.
So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange,
I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install
the cables the rest of the way.
Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed
under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want
to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make
a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final
install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach
the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done.
How are others handling this?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051
Message 4
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| Subject: | Heater cable mounting |
First I used an alternate panel (Stein) and a center console. So.....
I made a bracket for the two cables and drilled the bottom of my panel and added
nut plates to attach the bracket later. Inserted the cables in the bracket
and then estimated where they would be in space (my panel was not installed) and
then ran them through the firewall and connected them up.
One of the plusses of doing it this way was that while I work under the panel I
can undo the bracket and get the cables out of the way. I am starting to wonder
why I need them, in the first 10 hours of flying, with the ground temps in
the 30s and 40s, all I use are the fresh air vents and have not turned on the
heaters yet....except to test.....they work.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 11:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heater cable mounting
I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control
cables.
Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the
forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have
the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these
cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the firewall,
through the firewall on to its final destination.
So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange,
I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install
the cables the rest of the way.
Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed
under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want
to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to make
a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the final
install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then attach
the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done.
How are others handling this?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Heater cable mounting |
You'll probably appreciate them at some point. I've flown around
on nice summer days and been below freezing at altitude. It still
is pretty good, with sunlight, but eventually you'll find some
time when you like having them. You'll likely never open
them full though unless you're flying in really cold temps.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rene Felker wrote:
>
> First I used an alternate panel (Stein) and a center console.
> So.....
>
> I made a bracket for the two cables and drilled the bottom of my
> panel and added nut plates to attach the bracket later. Inserted the
> cables in the bracket and then estimated where they would be in space
> (my panel was not installed) and then ran them through the firewall
> and connected them up.
>
> One of the plusses of doing it this way was that while I work under
> the panel I can undo the bracket and get the cables out of the way.
> I am starting to wonder why I need them, in the first 10 hours of
> flying, with the ground temps in the 30s and 40s, all I use are the
> fresh air vents and have not turned on the heaters yet....except to
> test.....they work.
>
> Rene' Felker RV-10 N423CF Flying
Message 6
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| Subject: | IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears |
I have a IO-540 C2C (narrow deck, 250hp) engine and I'm short one mounting ear.
This model has the larger hole for the Lord mounts and has the two alignment
pins along with the four bolt holes. Does anyone have one available or know
where I can find one?
Thanks,
Nick
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173067#173067
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Heater cable mounting |
Gary,
I just finished going through the same mental exercise. I decided to
mount them in a small rectangular piece of aluminum that has two nut
plates attached just outboard of the holes the cable go through. This
way I can make holes just big enough for the knobs to come through from
the rear and have two holes in the panel to put screws through to the
smaller plate behind.
Clear as mud eh?
Let me know if you want a picture.
Dave Hertner
orchidman wrote:
>
> I am trying to think ahead just a little and having a problem with the heat control
cables.
>
> Looking at them they must be installed from the cabin side. The nut is on the
forward side of the bracket they are mounted on in the cabin. So you must have
the mounting bracket already drilled, and preped before you can install these
cables. You would pass the cable through the mounting hole, route to the
firewall, through the firewall on to its final destination.
> So for example if I want the cables mounted on the F-1003B Inst Panel Lower Flange,
I have to drill the holes in it and mount the cables before I can install
the cables the rest of the way.
> Right now I plan on doing like Tim did and mounting them on a bracket installed
under the throttle quad. But I still have to make the bracket now if I want
to install the heater cables at this time. A possible solution would be to
make a bracket and slit it through the holes. Then when I am ready to do the
final install, lay the cables in half of the piece, add the top half and then
attach the 2 halves with some type of back plate, tighten the nuts and it is done.
>
> How are others handling this?
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173051#173051
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Heater cable mounting |
somewhat like this?
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05531.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
David Hertner wrote:
> This way I can make holes just big enough for the knobs to come
> through from the rear and have two holes in the panel to put screws
> through to the smaller plate behind.
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Heater cable mounting |
Yes but mounted from behind the panel.
Dave
Do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> somewhat like this?
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05531.html
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> David Hertner wrote:
>> This way I can make holes just big enough for the knobs to come
>> through from the rear and have two holes in the panel to put screws
>> through to the smaller plate behind.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears |
If you mean the larger main hole, you have the wrong ears. In this
case you would need to get a full set of small-hole ears. The shock
mounts, whether they be the Lord mounts or the others that Van's is
now shipping with the FWF kit, they still need to go through the same
size hole in the engine ear. Send me a picture off-line and I will
let you know if they look like the right or wrong ears.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 27, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Nick Leonard wrote:
>
> I have a IO-540 C2C (narrow deck, 250hp) engine and I'm short one
> mounting ear. This model has the larger hole for the Lord mounts
> and has the two alignment pins along with the four bolt holes. Does
> anyone have one available or know where I can find one?
> Thanks,
> Nick
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173067#173067
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears |
I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when I sent
off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C, they said the right
ones for the engine were the ones for the large hole. Shouldn't really matter
other than I need to find one more.
Anyone know where I can find one?
Thanks
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096
Message 12
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| Subject: | Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer |
Is anybody aware of oil and fuel pressure transducers that connect directly to
the port on the engine rather than mount on the firewall?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173099#173099
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears |
I've got one Nick that is used serviceable and has passed NDT
inspection. It sells for $220 plus freight. Let me know if you'd like
it.
Ref the large hole mounts, versus the small hole. The large hole mount
was designed for engines that use a prop extension. It was designed to
move the focal point of the engine forward. The large hole mount is 28
degree rather than the 30 degree on the small mount.
Hope this information is helpful to you.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when
I sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C,
they said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large
hole. Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more.
Anyone know where I can find one?
Thanks
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears |
Nothing like a Lady that not only has great looks...but can talk engines as well!!
Rick Sked
40185
BPE fan, friend and customer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@bpaengines.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 2:15:40 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
I've got one Nick that is used serviceable and has passed NDT
inspection. It sells for $220 plus freight. Let me know if you'd like
it.
Ref the large hole mounts, versus the small hole. The large hole mount
was designed for engines that use a prop extension. It was designed to
move the focal point of the engine forward. The large hole mount is 28
degree rather than the 30 degree on the small mount.
Hope this information is helpful to you.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when
I sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C,
they said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large
hole. Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more.
Anyone know where I can find one?
Thanks
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096
Message 15
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| Subject: | Replacing the plastic brake lines... |
Hey all -
Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out
for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and
against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with
the results. For those interested:
http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk
I'm really happy with the results.
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears |
Nick,
Sorry to say it, but the ears with large holes won't work with a standard
RV-10 engine mount. The angle and spacing is wrong. I had the large ears on
my engine and thought I could get the rubber mounts for this type of ear,
bit it wouldn't match the engine mount. The only way I could get it to work
is to buy the ears with small holes. They will bolt to the engine the same
as the large ears, but their angle matches the engine mount.
Kevin Belue
RV-6A
RV-10
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Leonard" <nick@nleonard.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO-540 C2C Mounting Ears
>
> I ended up with the larger hole mounts (only three so far) because when I
> sent off for the Lord mounts (not Van's) specifying the IO-540 C2C, they
> said the right ones for the engine were the ones for the large hole.
> Shouldn't really matter other than I need to find one more.
>
> Anyone know where I can find one?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173096#173096
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer |
Usually not a good idea as you have a relatively heavy sender mechanically
supported by a small diameter threaded fitting. The sender being free to
vibrate around presents a strong moment arm to the sender fitting.
I used Adel clamps to mount my oil and fuel pressure senders to the engine
mount, 8" to 10" or so away from the engine oil port or fuel pump. I made
up a short piece of fire sleeved hose to make the connection. 400 hrs on my
RV-8A and still working fine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib@mac.com
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer
Is anybody aware of oil and fuel pressure transducers that connect directly
to the port on the engine rather than mount on the firewall?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173099#173099
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Oil/Fuel Pressure Transducer |
You may have a hard time finding any that mount directly to the engine.
All of the ones I've seen say not to mount them to the engine due to the
fact that the vibrations will damage them.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>
> Is anybody aware of oil and fuel pressure transducers that connect directly to
the port on the engine rather than mount on the firewall?
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=173099#173099
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Replacing the plastic brake lines... |
CJ,
The brake lines look great. Any chance you'd share what the replacement
lines set back your checkbook?
Thanks,
Marcus
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Hey all -
Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for
braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. Well
I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results. For
those interested:
http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk
I'm really happy with the results.
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... |
I have their lines as well...cept Brett didn't volunteer to come measure th
en install them for me=C2- :) Nice product..highly recommended. Now when
you bleed them CJ, make sure you get Bonaco's x-ray glasses that enable you
to see through the lines and monitor the bubbles. ;)
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:11:15 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Hey all -
Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for
braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. =C2
- Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results
. =C2- For those interested:
http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk
I=99m really happy with the results.
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
===
====
=======================
==
Message 21
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| Subject: | Adding Air to Main Tires |
Dear List,
My plan for my main wheel pants was to create some sort of
access door on the wheel pant to allow me to fill my mains w/o removing
the front part of the wheel pant. Simple enough till I looked at the
stem of my tire that points straight at my axel extension at basically
90 degrees to the side of the wheel pant. Rats! Nothing is simple. This
valve orientation will require an excessively large door for access. Not
practical.
I found a 90 degree Schrader valve adapter but I am not sure
that is a good solution as it will probably rub on the axel extension
and may also be too long.
Are there any builders that have found a solution to this
issue.
Thanks,
Robin
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... |
I have teflon braided brake lines from Baker Precision on my RV6. Fours
years no leaks ..no problems. Also used them from the caliper to the
aluminum line on the gear leg to allow flexing.
http://www.bakerprecision.com/earls19.htm
Jerry Calvert
Edmond OK
RV6
N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
CJ,
The brake lines look great. Any chance you'd share what the
replacement lines set back your checkbook?
Thanks,
Marcus
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 5:11 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Hey all -
Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines
out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and
against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with
the results. For those interested:
http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk
I'm really happy with the results.
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Air to Main Tires |
With a 2" hole and a pressure meter that has the angle on the end
(about 45%, I think), you can get in there and check it. The location
of the hole is fairly important, of course. I center it 2" or 2.5"
behind and 1/2" above the center of the axle extender screw point and
put in a Cirrus 2" plastic plug. It isn't perfect, but it works. You
have to leave the cap off the valve stem, though.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Mar 27, 2008, at 7:17 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Dear List,
> My plan for my main wheel pants was to create some sort
> of access door on the wheel pant to allow me to fill my mains w/o
> removing the front part of the wheel pant. Simple enough till I
> looked at the stem of my tire that points straight at my axel
> extension at basically 90 degrees to the side of the wheel pant.
> Rats! Nothing is simple. This valve orientation will require an
> excessively large door for access. Not practical.
> I found a 90 degree Schrader valve adapter but I am not
> sure that is a good solution as it will probably rub on the axel
> extension and may also be too long.
> Are there any builders that have found a solution to
> this issue.
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
>
>
> <image001.jpg>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Replacing the plastic brake lines... |
So is Brett ready to start making lines for all your RV-10 buddies?
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
Hey all -
Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines out for
braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and against. Well
I changed them the other day, and am really happy with the results. For
those interested:
http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk
I'm really happy with the results.
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 2979 (20080327) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing the plastic brake lines... |
I wonder if Brett would be interested in a group buy.
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> So is Brett ready to start making lines for all your RV-10 buddies?
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris
> Johnston
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 6:11 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Replacing the plastic brake lines...
>
> Hey all -
>
> Once upon a time I had looked into swapping the plastic brake lines
> out for braided steel lines, and there were varying opinions for and
> against. Well I changed them the other day, and am really happy with
> the results. For those interested:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2njcjk
>
> Im really happy with the results.
>
> cj
>
> #40410
>
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
>
> finishing/firewall forward/panel wiring/etc
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 2979 (20080327) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 2979 (20080327) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> *
>
>
> *
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