RV10-List Digest Archive

Sat 04/19/08


Total Messages Posted: 28



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:35 AM - Re: Insurance was AFS Systems .... (G900X panel cost / Stick Clearance) (Wayne Edgerton)
     2. 05:32 AM - Re: Wiring NL starter help (Jesse Saint)
     3. 09:15 AM - Re: Torque wing bolts (Roger Standley)
     4. 12:22 PM - Re: Wiring NL starter help (rv10builder)
     5. 12:26 PM - Matco 511.25 nose wheel ? (Chris)
     6. 01:33 PM - Re: Wiring NL starter help (Chris and Susie McGough)
     7. 01:42 PM - Re: Wiring NL starter help (Michael Wellenzohn)
     8. 02:09 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (William Curtis)
     9. 02:16 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (Chris and Susie McGough)
    10. 02:25 PM - Fw: Re: Wiring NL starter help (Chris and Susie McGough)
    11. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (William Curtis)
    12. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (William Curtis)
    13. 02:56 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (Chris and Susie McGough)
    14. 04:07 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    15. 04:08 PM - Re: Wiring NL starter help (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    16. 04:42 PM - Re: oil cooler (AirMike)
    17. 07:16 PM - Re: FW: 12 "cigarette" receptacle (Bruce Snyder)
    18. 07:18 PM - RV-10 for sale! My loss your gain! (Howard Crawford)
    19. 07:25 PM - Fuel Line Quick Disconnects (Les Kearney)
    20. 07:48 PM - Temporary door seal install (Sheldon Olesen)
    21. 07:49 PM - Re: Re: Wiring NL starter help (William Curtis)
    22. 08:12 PM - Re: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects (Dave Saylor)
    23. 09:14 PM - Re: RV-10 for sale! My loss your gain! (2eyedocs)
    24. 09:22 PM - Re: Re: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects (LES KEARNEY)
    25. 09:27 PM - Re: Matco 511.25 nose wheel ? (bcondrey)
    26. 09:46 PM - Doors and the C-1010 Cabin Pin Blocks. (John Gonzalez)
    27. 09:54 PM - Re: Re: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects (John Cox)
    28. 11:32 PM - Re: PIREP: Electric Rudder Trim - Do I really need it? (AirMike)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:35:37 AM PST US
    From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e@grandecom.net>
    Subject: Re: Insurance was AFS Systems .... (G900X panel cost / Stick
    Clearance) I qualified for the TAA requirements with AIG and still found that Global was a little bit cheaper than AIG even with AIG giving me the 10% discount. Wayne Edgerton N602WT Time: 05:15:31 PM PST US From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Insurance was AFS Systems .... (G900X panel cost / Stick Clearance) Here is the post John was referencing. It is slightly different than the information we got earlier where IFR GPS, and moving map and autopilot are required for the 10% discount from AIG. Just got my insurance bill for the renewal and SkySmith included the AIG "Technology Advanced Aircraft" discount requirements. The aircraft must have: 1.) IFR certified GPS, 2.) Moving map, 3.) two axis autopilot, plus any two from column B, including: TAWS, TCAS, Weather monitor (Stormscope, datalink, or radar), a fuel totalizer, and RNP capability. The pilot must have: 1.) Minimum Private/Instrument 2.) Current Instrument Proficiency Check, maintained annually 3.) Air Safety Foundation course completed, selected from 1.) single pilot IFR, 2.) Datalink, 3.) Thunderstorms, 4.) IFR GPS, and 5.) Runway Safety. These are available free and on-line and take about 30-40 minutes to complete. Meet these requirements and get a 10% discount from AIG!! John Cox wrote:


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:32:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    In my experience the master has 3 contacts and the starter has 4. Ground closes the master and power closes the starter. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com 352-427-0285 Kelly McMullen wrote: > > I tend to think you have the wrong relay. The starter relay is normally > an intermittentduty model, with 3 terminals as shown in the Skytec > diagram. Master relays normally have 4 terminals. I note that the > pictures in the Spruce catalog are also reversed. :-( > > Chris and Susie McGough wrote: >> <VHMUM@bigpond.com> >> >> Guys I am now stuck. I have the NL starter and also wired the plane as >> per Vans wiring kit which I now know is wrong for this starter. I >> contacted Vans and they are not interested in helping as not the >> starter they supply. >> >> Can somone have a look at the skytec diagram and give me an idea what >> wires to change. Ofcourse if you have not used Vans diagram you will >> not know the difference. >> >> Vans starter relay has 4 terminals and Skytec diagram has 3. Also >> Skytec has 1 wire going to the starter not 2. >> http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL%2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg >> >> Luckily John Jessen pointed this out >> >> regards Chris >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:15:45 AM PST US
    From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Torque wing bolts
    Got it! Thanks, Guys! Roger=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: Chris and Susie McGough<mailto:VHMUM@bigpond.com> =0A To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 1:56 PM=0A Subject: Re: RV10-List: Torque w ing bolts=0A=0A=0A Thanks Vern You should have got he email to Roger regards Chris=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: Roger Standley<mailto:taildragon@msn.com> =0A To: rv10-li st@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Satur day, April 19, 2008 12:52 AM=0A Subject: Re: RV10-List: Torque w ing bolts=0A=0A=0A Hi Chris,=0A=0A Did you receiv e a response? I need those torques, too.=0A=0A Roger=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: Chris and Susie McGo ugh<mailto:VHMUM@bigpond.com> =0A To: rv10-list@matronics.com< mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 9:55 PM=0A Subject: RV10-List: Torque wing bolts=0A Gough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com<mailto:VHMUM@bigpond.com>>=0A=0A Could someone look up the torque for me for those nas bolts that hold the =0A wings on? C============= ======================= ==========nbsp; - The RV10-List Email Forum -h ttp://www.==================== =p; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS href="http://forums.matronics.com ">http://forums.matronics.============== =========nbsp; tit le=http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronic s.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribut===== ======================= ==============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Ahref="http://forums.ma tronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matro ======================= ======================= /www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Naviga ======================= ======================0A_ ======================= ======================= http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contri ======================= ====================0A=0A


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:22:31 PM PST US
    From: rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    I too have the 149-NL starter (that came with my TMX-540) and it is wired per Van's Lightweight Starter Circuit with the "I" terminal connected to the smaller stud (jumper removed). It's working just fine... Brian Sutherland Nashville, TN N104BS 13.5 hours in Phase 1 Chris and Susie McGough wrote: > <VHMUM@bigpond.com> > > Guys I am now stuck. I have the NL starter and also wired the plane as > per Vans wiring kit which I now know is wrong for this starter. I > contacted Vans and they are not interested in helping as not the > starter they supply. > > Can somone have a look at the skytec diagram and give me an idea what > wires to change. Ofcourse if you have not used Vans diagram you will > not know the difference. > > Vans starter relay has 4 terminals and Skytec diagram has 3. Also > Skytec has 1 wire going to the starter not 2. > http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL%2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg > > Luckily John Jessen pointed this out > > regards Chris > > > . >


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:26:37 PM PST US
    From: "Chris" <toaster73@embarqmail.com>
    Subject: Matco 511.25 nose wheel ?
    For those that switched to the 511.25 nosewheel did you change to a different tube than what was in the finish kit? Thanks Chris Lucas #40072


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:33:30 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    Thanks Brian if it was not for this list I would had a stuffed starter. Enjoy your flying. regards Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "rv10builder" <rv10builder@bellsouth.net> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 5:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring NL starter help > > I too have the 149-NL starter (that came with my TMX-540) and it is wired > per Van's Lightweight Starter Circuit with the "I" terminal connected to > the smaller stud (jumper removed). It's working just fine... > > Brian Sutherland > Nashville, TN > N104BS > 13.5 hours in Phase 1 > > Chris and Susie McGough wrote: >> <VHMUM@bigpond.com> >> >> Guys I am now stuck. I have the NL starter and also wired the plane as >> per Vans wiring kit which I now know is wrong for this starter. I >> contacted Vans and they are not interested in helping as not the starter >> they supply. >> >> Can somone have a look at the skytec diagram and give me an idea what >> wires to change. Ofcourse if you have not used Vans diagram you will not >> know the difference. >> >> Vans starter relay has 4 terminals and Skytec diagram has 3. Also Skytec >> has 1 wire going to the starter not 2. >> http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL%2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg >> >> Luckily John Jessen pointed this out >> >> regards Chris >> >> >> >> >> >> . >> > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:42:37 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
    I am not sure if I can add help or more confusion here. But I wrote this question to SkyTec since I wanted to know what to do with my 149 NL Starter which came with my the TMX IO-540. Quote: Michael, Per that page, "All Sky-Tec NL starters must be wired per diagram "B" below as there is no active "S" terminal. The small, "S" terminal on the NL model starter is used to switch the starter from 24V (jumper wire removed) to 12V (jumper wire installed) operation and cannot be used to activate the starter." So yes, assuming you are running this thing on 12V, you will need to install the jumper. It is confusing. - Rich Rich Chiappe Sky-Tec 800-476-7896 richc@skytecair.com www.skytecair.com Quoutattion end: I read here to keep the jumper on! Do I miss something? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177873#177873


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:09:30 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    The diagram he is referring to is here: http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL% 2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg=0A=0AAlso attached. My TMX-IO 540 also came with the NL starter and I wired it per this diagram.=0A =0AWilliam=0Ahttp://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ =0A=0A-------- Original Me <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>=0A> =0A> I am not sure if I can add help or m ore confusion here. But I wrote this question to SkyTec since I wanted to k now what to do with my 149 NL Starter which came with my the TMX IO-540. =0A> =0A> Quote:=0A> =0A> =0A> Michael,=0A> =0A> Per that page, "All Sky-Tec NL starters must be wired per diagram "B" below as ther e is no active "S" terminal. The small, "S" terminal on the NL model start er is used to switch the starter from 24V (jumper wire removed) to 12V (jum per wire installed) operation and cannot be used to activate the starter." =0A> =0A> So yes, assuming you are running this thing on 12V, you wil l need to install the jumper.=0A> =0A> It is confusing.=0A> =0A > - Rich=0A> =0A> Rich Chiappe=0A> Sky-Tec=0A> 800-476-7896 =0A> richc@skytecair.com=0A> www.skytecair.com=0A> =0A> =0A> Qu outattion end:=0A> =0A> =0A> I read here to keep the jumper on! =0A> =0A> Do I miss=0A> something?=0A> =0A> Michael=0A> =0A> --------=0A> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)=0A> #511 =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A> =0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177873#177873=0A> ======================== =0A


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:16:46 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    >From Skytec Sky-Tec repurposed the S-Terminal functionality on NL model starters to serve as a means of switching the starter between 12V and 24V operation. Because of this, ALL NL STARTER INSTALLATIONS MUST BE WIRED ACCORDING TO THE CERTIFIED AIRCRAFT WIRING DIAGRAM BELOW - NO EXCEPTIONS! http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL%2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg I noticed on the starter when I put the jumper back it says someting like jumper for 12 volt operation. So if that jumper is used it becomes a 24 volt starter. I must have had a coeliac moment when I first removed it. regards Chris


    Message 10


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    Time: 02:25:20 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    Woops missed a critical word ..... From Skytec Sky-Tec repurposed the S-Terminal functionality on NL model starters to serve as a means of switching the starter between 12V and 24V operation. Because of this, ALL NL STARTER INSTALLATIONS MUST BE WIRED ACCORDING TO THE CERTIFIED AIRCRAFT WIRING DIAGRAM BELOW - NO EXCEPTIONS! http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL%2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg I noticed on the starter when I put the jumper back it says someting like jumper for 12 volt operation. So if that jumper is not used it becomes a 24 volt starter. I must have had a coeliac moment when I first removed it. regards Chris


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:45:58 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    > I noticed on the starter when I put the jumper back it says someting like > jumper for 12 volt operation. So if that jumper is used it becomes a 24 volt > starter. I must have had a coeliac moment when I first removed it. I think you have it backwards. When the junper is ON, it's a 12 volt starter; when the jumper is OFF it is a 24 volt starter. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/


    Message 12


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    Time: 02:55:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    >I tend to think you have the wrong relay. The starter relay is normally >an intermittentduty model, with 3 terminals as shown in the Skytec >diagram. Master relays normally have 4 terminals. I note that the >pictures in the Spruce catalog are also reversed >I too have the 149-NL starter (that came with my TMX-540) and it is >wired per Van's Lightweight Starter Circuit with the "I" terminal >connected to the smaller stud (jumper removed). It's working just fine This is interesting. My starter relay has FOUR terminals and came with a tag that said "If original has 3 terminals DO NOT use this "I" terminal." William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:56:42 PM PST US
    From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    Yep I sent another email thanks Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 7:54 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wiring NL starter help > >> I noticed on the starter when I put the jumper back it says someting like >> jumper for 12 volt operation. So if that jumper is used it becomes a 24 >> volt >> starter. I must have had a coeliac moment when I first removed it. > > I think you have it backwards. When the junper is ON, it's a 12 volt > starter; when the jumper is OFF it is a 24 volt starter. > > William > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 04:07:34 PM PST US
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    Think you got the wrong guy attached to the quote below William. That was Brian Sutherland that said that, not me. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:04 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wiring NL starter help >I tend to think you have the wrong relay. The starter relay is normally >an intermittentduty model, with 3 terminals as shown in the Skytec >diagram. Master relays normally have 4 terminals. I note that the >pictures in the Spruce catalog are also reversed >I too have the 149-NL starter (that came with my TMX-540) and it is >wired per Van's Lightweight Starter Circuit with the "I" terminal >connected to the smaller stud (jumper removed). It's working just fine This is interesting. My starter relay has FOUR terminals and came with a tag that said "If original has 3 terminals DO NOT use this "I" terminal." William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/


    Message 15


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    Time: 04:08:45 PM PST US
    From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
    Subject: Wiring NL starter help
    For now. :) Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 2:14 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring NL starter help I too have the 149-NL starter (that came with my TMX-540) and it is wired per Van's Lightweight Starter Circuit with the "I" terminal connected to the smaller stud (jumper removed). It's working just fine... Brian Sutherland Nashville, TN N104BS 13.5 hours in Phase 1 Chris and Susie McGough wrote: > <VHMUM@bigpond.com> > > Guys I am now stuck. I have the NL starter and also wired the plane as > per Vans wiring kit which I now know is wrong for this starter. I > contacted Vans and they are not interested in helping as not the > starter they supply. > > Can somone have a look at the skytec diagram and give me an idea what > wires to change. Ofcourse if you have not used Vans diagram you will > not know the difference. > > Vans starter relay has 4 terminals and Skytec diagram has 3. Also > Skytec has 1 wire going to the starter not 2. > http://www.skytecair.com/images/NL%2012V%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg > > Luckily John Jessen pointed this out > > regards Chris > > > . >


    Message 16


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    Time: 04:42:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: oil cooler
    From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
    Alex sells a cooler that he claims has 20% more capacity. I bought it. I live in NV and it is pretty hot in the summer -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177907#177907


    Message 17


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    Time: 07:16:48 PM PST US
    From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: FW: 12 "cigarette" receptacle
    Are most of the parts plastic on that power receptacle? Thanks. Bruce 40353 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 9:59 AM Subject: RV10-List: FW: 12 "cigarette" receptacle Check this out. I didn't really like the bulky cigarette-type power receptacles from Spruce or elsewhere (commonly with a flange on both sides for screw mounting), so I went to the aviation department at West Marine and found this one by Marinco. As you can see, it mounts with a screw-on ring in the back, so you've only got the diameter of the receptacle itself showing in front. There is an optional front flange if you want to use it. It also has a nice-sealing cap, being a marine product . . . I think it was $17.99 at my local West Marine. You landlubbers will have to go on their web site, if interested. TDT 40025 Wings going on soon! From: Dawson-Townsend [mailto:yooper@alum.mit.edu] Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 1:35 AM Subject: P1000230.JPG P1000230.JPG --


    Message 18


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    Time: 07:18:39 PM PST US
    From: Howard Crawford <crawfordh22@hotmail.com>
    Subject: RV-10 for sale! My loss your gain!
    RV10 kit # 40017 is for sale because of circumstances beyond my control. Th is aircraft is on gear and is in the finishing stage. Engine and prop are i nstalled, canopy, cowl, doors & window fit is beautiful. The engine is a 12 00 hour total time IO 540 engine with a fresh overall. Prop is a new Hartze ll blended airfoil. Purchase for the price of the kits, engine, prop and bu ilding materials. Please contact me off line at crawfordh22@hotmail.com Tha nks! Would consider the right RV trade! _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back up'use SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. L earn how. http://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refre sh_skydrive_packup_042008


    Message 19


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    Time: 07:25:52 PM PST US
    From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects
    Hi As I look at the tunnel in my -10, I am contemplating how I will be able to *easily* access the fuel pumps / filters that after the panel is installed. Keeping in mind John Cox's admonition to think about maintenance access when building, I have wondered about the use of quick disconnects on the fuel lines so the fuel pumps / filters can be easily removed / installed. I can't image how I would be able to connect these things in the future. I see that A/C Spruce sells experimental quick disconnects and that there are several racing sites that have what appear to be even higher quality units. Has anyone used these in their a/c? Are there any reasons why they should not be used? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved)


    Message 20


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    Time: 07:48:32 PM PST US
    From: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen@sirentel.net>
    Subject: Temporary door seal install
    Does anyone know a method of temporarily installing the door seal? I've tried carpet tape and it won't stick to the seal material. I wanted to final fit the doors with the seal in place so there wouldn't be any surprises after painting. Sheldon Olesen 40080


    Message 21


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    Time: 07:49:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring NL starter help
    From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
    Sorry about that. Getting confused as to who is saying what. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com> > > > Think you got the wrong guy attached to the quote below William. That was Brian Sutherland that said that, not me. > > Michael > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis > Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:04 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wiring NL starter help > > > >I tend to think you have the wrong relay. The starter relay is normally > >an intermittentduty model, with 3 terminals as shown in the Skytec > >diagram. Master relays normally have 4 terminals. I note that the > >pictures in the Spruce catalog are also reversed > > >I too have the 149-NL starter (that came with my TMX-540) and it is > >wired per Van's Lightweight Starter Circuit with the "I" terminal > >connected to the smaller stud (jumper removed). It's working just fine > > This is interesting. My starter relay has FOUR terminals and came with a tag that said "If original has 3 terminals DO NOT use this "I" terminal." > > William > http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/


    Message 22


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    Time: 08:12:43 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@aircraftersllc.com>
    Subject: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects
    Les, It's really not that bad a job. The hardest part is getting the tunnel cover off. You might consider leaving a few of the screws out towards the front. That and an electric screwdriver will have the filter serviced in a few minutes. The stock design is simple and light. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 7:20 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects Hi As I look at the tunnel in my -10, I am contemplating how I will be able to *easily* access the fuel pumps / filters that after the panel is installed. Keeping in mind John Cox's admonition to think about maintenance access when building, I have wondered about the use of quick disconnects on the fuel lines so the fuel pumps / filters can be easily removed / installed. I can't image how I would be able to connect these things in the future. I see that A/C Spruce sells experimental quick disconnects and that there are several racing sites that have what appear to be even higher quality units. Has anyone used these in their a/c? Are there any reasons why they should not be used? Inquiring minds need to know Les Kearney #40643 C-GCWZ (reserved)


    Message 23


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    Time: 09:14:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: RV-10 for sale! My loss your gain!
    From: "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs@tx.rr.com>
    Bad email! [Exclamation] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177933#177933


    Message 24


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    Time: 09:22:11 PM PST US
    From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects
    Hi Dave My setup is a bit different. I am installing an Eggenfellner E6Ti (3.6l) engine. My fuel pumps and filters are a different from the stock vans equipment. Looking at the tunnel, they will be a pain to service. I am not as flexible as I once was.... Cheers Les ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Saylor <Dave@aircraftersllc.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects > Les, > > It's really not that bad a job. The hardest part is > getting the tunnel > cover off. You might consider leaving a few of the screws > out towards the > front. That and an electric screwdriver will have the > filter serviced in a > few minutes. The stock design is simple and light. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > _____ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney > Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 7:20 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects > > > > Hi > > > > As I look at the tunnel in my -10, I am contemplating how I will > be able to > *easily* access the fuel pumps / filters that after the panel is > installed.Keeping in mind John Cox's admonition to think about > maintenance access when > building, I have wondered about the use of quick disconnects on > the fuel > lines so the fuel pumps / filters can be easily removed / > installed. I can't > image how I would be able to connect these things in the future. > > > > I see that A/C Spruce sells experimental quick disconnects and > that there > are several racing sites that have what appear to be even higher > qualityunits. > > > > Has anyone used these in their a/c? Are there any reasons why > they should > not be used? > > > > Inquiring minds need to know > > > > Les Kearney > > #40643 > > C-GCWZ (reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 25


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    Time: 09:27:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Matco 511.25 nose wheel ?
    From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
    Original tube works fine. Bob #40105 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177934#177934


    Message 26


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    Time: 09:46:26 PM PST US
    From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Doors and the C-1010 Cabin Pin Blocks.
    Wow, atleast 9 hours today again mounting doors, drilling out the cabin fra me openings and the cabin pin blocks and fabricating the pins from the 5/16 -24 bolts. I noticed that my C-1010 cabin pin blocks were slightly wider o ut of the box than they should have been by about 1/16 of an inch. Regardle ss of the fact that I did not trim them down to the correct width, I do not believe that the door edge bevel would fit over the block without reshapin g the door drastically...the block is quite thick, wide and the door flange s are thick, inner and outer door shells. The blocks just happen to be flus h with the outside edge of the fuse, which made me realize that with the bl ocks in this configuration, the pins cannot come in contact with the painte d sides of the fuse. I remember that a lot of folks are complaining of chip ping of the paint in this area. Of course if I opt to not trim the block's width, then I need to pocket out the edge of the door to allow the pin bloc k to fit into the door edge. If I opt to trim the width of the cabin pin block then there will be less t hickness between the pin hole and the out side of the block. My pin absolut ely go thru the entire block, the fiberglass cabin top and into the aluminu m fuselage members, fore and aft. It seems that the pin block are only supp osed to serve as a guide and a method of pulling the door in with the pin h ole having that 3.4 degree angle in it. Of course if the pin block is reduc ed in it's width, the door pin will hit the fuselage paint, provided the do or handles are not in the 135 degree maximum open position. What have people been doing with this? This sections direction are pretty v ague considering this is such a critical area...misshaps and all. John G.


    Message 27


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    Time: 09:54:39 PM PST US
    Subject: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects
    From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Besides the quality build and great archival photos, Scott Schmidt was one of the first to consider removal for serving of fuel parts - using a side access panel. His solution was simple and a quick look at Deems site shows a similar build which values servicing ease considerations. The eyes of a manufacturer are often from a different perspective than the maintenance technician who follows into perpetuity after the DAR signoff. The later often using the name of the first (frequently and with color)for failing to take into consideration maintenance access during the build. When it is yourself, it often follows with a whap to the forehead and something that sounds like "I could have had a V-8". (vegetable juice that is) The easiest and most glaring item seen in tech inspections is the large number of builders who do not double back safety wire and learn the consequence on penetration of their fingers or arms to service something - down the road. Boeing has been an example of design which values service in the field. John C ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of LES KEARNEY Sent: Sat 4/19/2008 9:17 PM Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects Hi Dave My setup is a bit different. I am installing an Eggenfellner E6Ti (3.6l) engine. My fuel pumps and filters are a different from the stock vans equipment. Looking at the tunnel, they will be a pain to service. I am not as flexible as I once was.... Cheers Les ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Saylor <Dave@aircraftersllc.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects > Les, > > It's really not that bad a job. The hardest part is > getting the tunnel > cover off. You might consider leaving a few of the screws > out towards the > front. That and an electric screwdriver will have the > filter serviced in a > few minutes. The stock design is simple and light. > > Dave Saylor > AirCrafters LLC > 140 Aviation Way > Watsonville, CA > 831-722-9141 > 831-750-0284 CL > www.AirCraftersLLC.com > > _____ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney > Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 7:20 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Line Quick Disconnects > > > > Hi > > > > As I look at the tunnel in my -10, I am contemplating how I will > be able to > *easily* access the fuel pumps / filters that after the panel is > installed.Keeping in mind John Cox's admonition to think about > maintenance access when > building, I have wondered about the use of quick disconnects on > the fuel > lines so the fuel pumps / filters can be easily removed / > installed. I can't > image how I would be able to connect these things in the future. > > > > I see that A/C Spruce sells experimental quick disconnects and > that there > are several racing sites that have what appear to be even higher > qualityunits. > > > > Has anyone used these in their a/c? Are there any reasons why > they should > not be used? > > > > Inquiring minds need to know > > > > Les Kearney > > #40643 > > C-GCWZ (reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 28


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    Time: 11:32:23 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: PIREP: Electric Rudder Trim - Do I really need it?
    From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
    Scott - very nice - I like your KISS approach. Is there any way you could post a picture of placement. Also where did you get the tabs or how did you fabricate and locate them? -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177943#177943




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