Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:08 AM - Re: Stick hits panel solution (Scott Schmidt)
2. 08:39 AM - Re: Stick hits panel solution (Rene Felker)
3. 11:56 AM - Perhaps a better fitting door when latched. (John Gonzalez)
4. 01:55 PM - RV-10 Dash Cover (Scott Schmidt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stick hits panel solution |
I had the same stick interference with my panel from Lancair. The Infinity grips
are much taller and cause this problem.
I have posted this in the past but thought I would post again. I decided to cut
my stick near the top of the curve. I then purchased the exact same steel and
wall thickness only it was a larger diameter so it would slide over the stock
stick. I can't remember the type of steel, I just called Van's and they knew
exactly what it was.
Luckily one of the helicopter maintenance companies here at my airport has a certified
tig welder and he charged me $40 to weld up both sticks. He did an amazing
job.
I don't even notice that the stick is slightly angled but now it is clear of everything.
I don't think anyone should mess with the controls and limit them even though full
down will probably never be used.
My fix took a couple hours once I had the right steel tubing.
I then had Flighline Interiors make me some real nice leather covers for the sticks.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 6:54:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stick hits panel solution
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Someone recently asked me how I resolved our Infinity
grip mounted stick hitting the lower panel. My answer was I will know in two
weeks. Well folks, finally something done ahead of schedule...
The grips do hit the lower panel as we
suspected. The sticks need to travel about 1/8" further than the panel
allows. Additionally we would want some extra clearance for comfort. After
spending some time accessing the situation we figured there were a couple of
options at this point in the build.
Option 1 modify the down travel on the
elevator stop. From what we measured our current down travel is 25 degrees. To
get the full set back needed we would have to take the travel down to ~19
degrees. This was less than 0.75 inches of travel on the Horizontal Stab and would
have solved all the stick clearance issues. That being said Van specific a
minimum of 20 degrees and as we are not re-engineering the aeronautical portion
of this aircraft that modification was a no go even though I hope to never need
full forward deflection.
Option 2 turns out to be a simple fix. We
pulled the stick out of the fuse and placed it in a hydraulic press to bend the
curved section of the stick. There was very little bending required to provide
the clearances needed and nothing aeronautical was modified. The change is unnoticeable
from the pilots/co-pilot seated position.
Option 3 is to plan ahead like Deems did and
modify the stick BEFORE it is powder coated, grip fitted and wires run.
Fortunately our adjustment did not put a single scratch on the stick and the
entire correction took less than 90 minutes including making the wood jig to
bend the sticks. (All times exclude head scratching)
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 Hours
RV-10 Sooner or Later, Probably Later
Message 2
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| Subject: | Stick hits panel solution |
Based on Scotts recommendation I did the same thing, except I used a smaller
OD, thicker wall piece of stock and put it inside the tube and welded it.
It is nice to have friends on the field that can weld....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stick hits panel solution
I had the same stick interference with my panel from Lancair. The Infinity
grips are much taller and cause this problem.
I have posted this in the past but thought I would post again. I decided to
cut my stick near the top of the curve. I then purchased the exact same
steel and wall thickness only it was a larger diameter so it would slide
over the stock stick. I can't remember the type of steel, I just called
Van's and they knew exactly what it was.
Luckily one of the helicopter maintenance companies here at my airport has a
certified tig welder and he charged me $40 to weld up both sticks. He did
an amazing job.
I don't even notice that the stick is slightly angled but now it is clear of
everything.
I don't think anyone should mess with the controls and limit them even
though full down will probably never be used.
My fix took a couple hours once I had the right steel tubing.
I then had Flighline Interiors make me some real nice leather covers for the
sticks.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 6:54:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stick hits panel solution
Someone recently asked me how I resolved our Infinity grip mounted stick
hitting the lower panel. My answer was I will know in two weeks. Well folks,
finally something done ahead of schedule...
The grips do hit the lower panel as we suspected. The sticks
need to travel about 1/8" further than the panel allows. Additionally we
would want some extra clearance for comfort. After spending some time
accessing the situation we figured there were a couple of options at this
point in the build.
Option 1 modify the down travel on the elevator stop. From what
we measured our current down travel is 25 degrees. To get the full set back
needed we would have to take the travel down to ~19 degrees. This was less
than 0.75 inches of travel on the Horizontal Stab and would have solved all
the stick clearance issues. That being said Van specific a minimum of 20
degrees and as we are not re-engineering the aeronautical portion of this
aircraft that modification was a no go even though I hope to never need full
forward deflection.
Option 2 turns out to be a simple fix. We pulled the stick out
of the fuse and placed it in a hydraulic press to bend the curved section of
the stick. There was very little bending required to provide the clearances
needed and nothing aeronautical was modified. The change is unnoticeable
from the pilots/co-pilot seated position.
Option 3 is to plan ahead like Deems did and modify the stick
BEFORE it is powder coated, grip fitted and wires run. Fortunately our
adjustment did not put a single scratch on the stick and the entire
correction took less than 90 minutes including making the wood jig to bend
the sticks. (All times exclude head scratching)
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 Hours
RV-10 Sooner or Later, Probably Later
Stick Jig.jpgStick Clearance.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Perhaps a better fitting door when latched. |
In my previous post, I described the point of my build where I was question
ing what to do with the plastic door blocks that are screwed to the fuse, t
he ones that the pins go through, as mine where flush with the fuse sides.
Even though these acted as a door pin stops which would prevent the pins fr
om chipping the paint in the event the pins were not completely retracted,
when the door is being closed, I opted to trim them back instead of pocketi
ng out the door edge. Now they act as door stops and are trimmed back from
the fuse edge, the thickness of the door material.
After the door was able to go back into its position that I had spend so m
any hours fitting, I engaged the pins to full position and noted that both
door did not fit the same way as when the pins were not engaged. After much
analysing...here is my idea as to why.
I spend so much effort and time making sure that that I marked where the pi
ns hit the canopy opening, I was very careful to make sure I dilled my hole
s for the pins correctly, straight and true. I even went as far as to drill
each hole with a small bit and incrementally step up bit sizes and I did i
t from the front as well as from the back. I used a straght edge as a guide
to remain parallel to the side and in a fore/aft dimension.
The problem is that the cabin sill, fiberglass canopy top and the metal fus
elage member are almost 1/4 inch thick and one needs to drill that pin hole
so that it is perfectly parallel, in all dimensions to the door pin, becau
se if the hole isn't true, the back half of the hole will cause the door to
ride up on that pin and cause the door to fit differently when the pins ar
e engaged.
Another way to do this or to fix it is to do the following:
Drill the holes as suggested in the manual, if the problem does occur, remo
ve the plastic guiding blocks, the ones that remain attached to the cabin s
ide, then enlarge the hole slighly with a dremel sanding drum on the offend
ing side of the hole( the side of the hole which engages too much) and re-c
heck that the pins go into the hole without any interference while the door
is jigged and clamped in its perfect position.
Fabricate out of 1" X 2.5" X 1/8" aluminum a new hole. Drill to 7/16". Have
the door closed in its' perfectly positioned place and close the pins to t
heir maximum extension and place the new plate over the pin and glue it ont
o the metal channel which makes up the fuselage side. (NOTE: I ALSO FABRICA
TED NEW FORWARD PINS TO A LITTLE LONGER, ABOUT 3/16" LONGER AND CUT THE BEV
EL LESS STEEP, SO INSTEAD OF 60 DEGREES, I DID 50 DEGREES OF BEVEL,( this s
evers to have the entire pin tube held by the hole. Because the bevel is fa
cing up and out, the unbevelled portion of the tube was just barely all the
way through the aluminum fuse member.) Note#2 there seems to be enough dis
tance between the pin while they are in their maximum open position and the
plastic guide block on the fuse side to allow the pins to be made longer.
Back to the new plate. Once glue is set, re drill the AN3 screw holes that
are used to attach the plastic guide block and place longer screws to go al
l the thru the plastic block, thru the fiberglass, through the metal fuse s
ide and through the new plate. One will most likely need to make new plasti
c guide blocks because the position of the hole is in a slightly different
positon in relation to the screw holes. The enlarged hole in the fiberglass
can be fixed by resin and cotton flox and the pin vasolined and placed in
the closed position while curing. This should be done while the new plastic
blocks are in place to minimize sanding.
If this is done, all of this should be done, first by carefully checking wh
ich pin hole is the offending one or whether it is both, by trying all comb
inations of one plastic blocks on the other off, etc.
Side Note: Remember, there should be four holes placed in the door handle g
ear pocket sides to allow the full 135 degrees of handle movement. The mech
anism needs to be centerred, and the toothed arms need to be at their maxim
um closed positon against the blind rivet when the handle is in its' closed
positon. The pins need to extend all the way into the metal fuse member. W
ith all this done, I see no way how one could not realize the door is ajar
and the pins are absolutely long enough that they cannot pull out.
John Gonzalez
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV-10 Dash Cover |
I get a few e-mails every month about my dash cover.
It was custom made here in Salt Lake by a local hot rod shop and they did a great
job. I sent it out to Abby at Flightline Interiors to be copied.
Today I e-mailed her and she informed me that she is selling them but has not had
time to update her website.
I have attached a couple of photos that I have (not very good ones) of my cover.
If you are interested please contact Flightline Interiors.
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
If anyone has one from Abby please post a picture.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
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