Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:19 AM - Emailing: IMG_1177 (David McNeill)
2. 09:27 AM - Overhead console head room (Chris Hukill)
3. 09:40 AM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (Rene Felker)
4. 09:41 AM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (Rob Kermanj)
5. 12:18 PM - Re: Engine Reading in Cruise (Bill DeRouchey)
6. 12:28 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (David McNeill)
7. 01:41 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (Tim Olson)
8. 03:05 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (Chris and Susie McGough)
9. 03:51 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (pascal)
10. 04:37 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (Tim Olson)
11. 04:49 PM - Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines (Tim Olson)
12. 05:27 PM - Window Adhesive (again) (McGANN, Ron)
13. 05:29 PM - Bill of Sale items (Dan Masys)
14. 05:49 PM - Re: Bill of Sale items (Jesse Saint)
15. 06:06 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (John Cox)
16. 06:09 PM - Brake lines (David McNeill)
17. 06:37 PM - Re: Window Adhesive (again) (Rick Sked)
18. 06:54 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (John Ackerman)
19. 06:57 PM - Re: Brake lines (John Ackerman)
20. 07:00 PM - May RV-10 Calendar Page ()
21. 07:07 PM - Re: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines (William Curtis)
22. 07:12 PM - Re: Brake lines (Rick Sked)
23. 07:15 PM - Sealing compound (dogsbark@comcast.net)
24. 07:16 PM - Re: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines (rv10builder)
25. 07:20 PM - Oil Screen Plug Crush Washer P/N? (rv10builder)
26. 07:34 PM - Aerotronics - Blatant Plug for "Plug-n-play" panel (AirMike)
27. 07:35 PM - brake lines (David McNeill)
28. 07:43 PM - Re: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines (David McNeill)
29. 08:11 PM - Re: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines (David McNeill)
30. 08:23 PM - sealing compound (dogsbark@comcast.net)
31. 08:36 PM - Re: Window Adhesive (again) (jim berry)
32. 08:45 PM - Re: sealing compound (David McNeill)
33. 09:02 PM - Re: Oil Screen Plug Crush Washer P/N? (Dave Saylor)
34. 09:08 PM - Re: sealing compound (dogsbark@comcast.net)
35. 09:37 PM - Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 (John Cox)
36. 11:37 PM - Re: Aerotronics - Blatant Plug for "Plug-n-play" panel (Albert Gardner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1177 |
I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the slip
joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a drip of
the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my
meter confirms.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Overhead console head room |
Before installing my cabin top, I am trying to decide if I need an
overhead console, and what the impact on my headroom will be. I am only
considering the console for the front seat gaspers, as lights can be
installed without one. I am 6' 4'', and am concerned about the loss of
headroom from a console. I sat in a friends 10 that had a full width
console, and had a headroom issue. If I only brought a duct forward to
route air, could that 3inch wide, or so, duct up the middle of the
cabin top cause a headroom issue as well? I don't like my headset
bumping on anything! A real pet peeve. Has anyone ducted air up from the
front, possibly from substituting the steel cabin support bar with a
larger diameter, thinner wall tube, and running the air thru that? How
about enclosing the existing support with a fiberglass duct? Maybe mount
the mag compass in there and really look custom.
The real question is, do you truly need the additional air? My RV8
has only the panel mounted air vent, and it is more than adequate, once
airborne, and I fly out of Las Vegas. Of course on the 8, you slide the
canopy back for taxi airflow, an option that isn't available in the 10.
How about taxing with the doors slightly open? Are the doors too fragile
for that option? My friend with the console says that the gaspers leak
air , and that's a nuisance in the winter, but he feels the overhead
gaspers will be a blessing in the summer, but as yet unknown. Would an
inline fan, when turned off, restrict the ram pressure enough to
prevent unwanted leakage? A shutoff valve would work, but that's
complexity and weight that gains you little.
Opinions or experiences anyone?
Chris Hukill
tailcone attached
(hanger sure got smaller)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1177 |
David, do you think that could just be the heat doing that?
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 10:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the slip
joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a drip of
the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my
meter confirms.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 |
I had the same thing. Use reflective foil to prevent further burning.
do not archive
On May 4, 2008, at 12:12 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the
> slip
> joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a
> drip of
> the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the
> cabin ; my
> meter confirms.
> <IMG_1177.jpg>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Reading in Cruise |
With your compression higher than my stock 8.5:1 some numbers may not compare but
you are getting fairly good efficiency at 15.9 smpg. After I added a miles
per gallon metric to my display and with some patience I now get 17.3 (or so)
smpg at 180-185 smph with the mixture set to peak. I was surprised that you are
doing this well with the 10:1 compression.
On the CHT readings: It seems for my engine the high CHT's settled down at 100-125
engine hours, also, I started cutting down the dams about this time. Working
with two variables created a moving target. Now all my CHT's are within 25
degrees F. I think the goal would be to adjust the dam until the difference
between cyl 1 & 3 is less than 25 degrees F and the same for cyl 2 & 4. Cyl 5
& 6 will get whatever cooling remains. If you eliminate the dams then on decent
the front cylinders will cool very quickly.
The best advice I can give is make the dams easy to change so its convenient
to modify them often. On my first dam change I drilled out the two rivets and
replaced them with Tinnermans. The screw holes were tweaked such that the screw
would slip between the fins. This allows the dam to be easily removed without
touching the cowl.
As Ken Kruger told me - "sneak up on it". This was good advice.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
Albert Gardner <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
I was talking to David McNeill on the phone about elevated CHT
temps on cylinders 1 and 2 yesterday and mentioned that I had that problem also
and was considering reducing the size of the air dams on those cylinders to
improve temps. I told him I would post some instrument readings I had recorded
about 2 weeks ago. Engine is IO-540 with 10:1 comp, 1 Lightspeed, Bendix servo,
AeroComposites 3 blade prop.
Altitude: 2000 ft. OAT: 75F MP: 21 RPM: 2100 IAS: 128kt TAS: 140kt Leaned
to 10.1 gph. Oil Temp: 203F
GHT 374 385 340 337 369 360
EGT 1398 1386 1382 1352 1390 1403
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 6
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| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1177 |
It could be the heat but the clearance at the three in one is at least 2
inches from the cowl. Perhaps the problem occurs on the ground ; I would
think that in flight there is enough air movement to prevent it from getting
really hot
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 9:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
David, do you think that could just be the heat doing that?
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 10:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the slip
joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a drip of
the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my
meter confirms.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 |
Yep, a known issue since way back when Randy first flew. Randy
let us know that the cowl would heat and discolor, so he stuck
on some self-stick aluminum from Vans. I decided from day one
to do the whole lower cowl, so I brushed on a layer of epoxy
to seal it, and then covered the whole thing with aluminum.
It wipes off nice that way too.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270023.html
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270025.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
David McNeill wrote:
>
> I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the slip
> joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a drip of
> the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my
> meter confirms.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 |
And less drag!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
>
> Yep, a known issue since way back when Randy first flew. Randy
> let us know that the cowl would heat and discolor, so he stuck
> on some self-stick aluminum from Vans. I decided from day one
> to do the whole lower cowl, so I brushed on a layer of epoxy
> to seal it, and then covered the whole thing with aluminum.
> It wipes off nice that way too.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270023.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270025.html
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>> I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the
>> slip
>> joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a drip
>> of
>> the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my
>> meter confirms.
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 |
Any idea how hot it is actually getting to discolor it? wonder what type of
long term damage this could cause..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
>
> Yep, a known issue since way back when Randy first flew. Randy
> let us know that the cowl would heat and discolor, so he stuck
> on some self-stick aluminum from Vans. I decided from day one
> to do the whole lower cowl, so I brushed on a layer of epoxy
> to seal it, and then covered the whole thing with aluminum.
> It wipes off nice that way too.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270023.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270025.html
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>> I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below the
>> slip
>> joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a drip
>> of
>> the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my
>> meter confirms.
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 |
I think the technical measurement of it is "real hot".
The aluminum film reflects much of the heat and then
you no longer have an issue. You *could* just put it
where you definitely need it. I just wanted more all-over
protection.
I'm not sure what actual degree temp it takes to discolor
the fiberglass, but most of the phenolics and materials
like that are surprisingly low in temp handling.
Just protect it and there are no worries.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
pascal wrote:
>
> Any idea how hot it is actually getting to discolor it? wonder what
> type of long term damage this could cause..
>
> -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Olson"
> <Tim@MyRV10.com> Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 1:36 PM To:
> <rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
>
>>
>> Yep, a known issue since way back when Randy first flew. Randy let
>> us know that the cowl would heat and discolor, so he stuck on some
>> self-stick aluminum from Vans. I decided from day one to do the
>> whole lower cowl, so I brushed on a layer of epoxy to seal it, and
>> then covered the whole thing with aluminum. It wipes off nice that
>> way too.
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270023.html
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270025.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>> David McNeill wrote:
>>> I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below
>>> the slip joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The
>>> gray spot is a drip of the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust
>>> pipes. No CO in the cabin ; my meter confirms.
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines |
It's been while since I've done any maintenance worth
talking about, but this weekend I did have some interesting
stuff with good results.
I know we've talked about wheel shimmy in the past, and
how getting the nosewheel all perfect is part of a fix for
some people. I do believe though that the mains on the
-10 have the tendency to "walk" back and forth, and that this
is probably a cause of shimmy for some people who *think* they
have nose shimmy. We've talked about balancing tires and
how some people had good results...but this weekend I finally
got to put on my first new set of tires at 330 hours and
I balanced them out. Turns out I now believe balancing is
key.
I also replaced my brake lines from fuselage to wheel with
some great braided teflon ones. Most people have heard
of builders with cracked lines around that lower loop,
but I know that at least one person had a nearly severed
line up on the top area too, from gear flex. I decided to
head it all off and finally install the lines I bought a few
months ago.
One other thing I did was to take the advice of another
builder and replace my caliper piston o-rings with
some higher temp Viton ones...especially since he was
nice enough to get me some milspec ones for free.
The combination of lines and piston o-rings though, did
cause me to have to bleed the brakes, of course...so that's
good.
I've got the whole thing written up here:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
With some additional stuff here:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Window Adhesive (again) |
Hi all,
Did some research over the weekend on replacements for Weld-on. Here
are some numbers I found on bond strength to acrylic:
WeldOn 10: 2700psi
SilPruf: 246 psi
Scotch Weld 2216 B/A: 1100 psi (shear) 500 psi tension (I think)
FE6026: dunno
Epoxy/flox: dunno
Sikaflex: dunno, but requires a minimum 3/16" bed
SilPruf is not recommended for structural applications and seems to be
more a sealant. And it appears to have only 10% the bond strength of
Weldon. Maybe I have dodgy data and am happy to be corrected by the
fans. Given the bond strength of the Weld On, it seems to me that the
windows become an integral part of the cabin and are therefore
structural. I'm not sure I would feel comfortable behind Silpruf,
especially for the windshield (but of course that is just my view based
on the data I have so far).
I just can't find any tech data on the FE6026 that Jesse recommends and
have no clue what the bond strength of epoxy/flox would be. I'm really
keen to get some hard quantitative data before I make a decision. Can
anyone fill in the gaps (whoops bad unintended pun)??
Cheers,
Ron
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Bill of Sale items |
The Tennessee Dept. of Revenue seems to have noticed that I have a new airplane
registered in the state, and has sent me a bunch of forms to fill out that don't
have much at all to do with building a kitplane. A couple of items they want
are the Aircraft Manufacturer & Model from the Bill of Sale, and the value
listed in the box that says "For and in consideration of $ "
I sent my original Bill of Sale from Vans into the FAA to get the registration,
and can't seem to find the second copy that Barbara Billman (Vans office mgr)
sent from Vans. Does anybody happen to have an RV-10 Bill of Sale from Vans
handy to let me know what those values were as filled in by Van's? I seem to
remember the "consideration" was not the actual $$ paid for all of the kits 'n
stuff.
Thanks,
-Dan Masys
N104LD flying 97 hrs
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Bill of Sale items |
Van's doesn't include a value on the Bill of Sale according to my
memory.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On May 4, 2008, at 8:25 PM, Dan Masys wrote:
>
> The Tennessee Dept. of Revenue seems to have noticed that I have a
> new airplane registered in the state, and has sent me a bunch of
> forms to fill out that don't have much at all to do with building a
> kitplane. A couple of items they want are the Aircraft Manufacturer
> & Model from the Bill of Sale, and the value listed in the box that
> says "For and in consideration of $ "
>
> I sent my original Bill of Sale from Vans into the FAA to get the
> registration, and can't seem to find the second copy that Barbara
> Billman (Vans office mgr) sent from Vans. Does anybody happen to
> have an RV-10 Bill of Sale from Vans handy to let me know what those
> values were as filled in by Van's? I seem to remember the
> "consideration" was not the actual $$ paid for all of the kits 'n
> stuff.
>
> Thanks,
> -Dan Masys
> N104LD flying 97 hrs
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1177 |
350 degrees will begin to yellow the gel coat and white topcoat. 425
will turn it orange and begin to breakdown the honeycomb. At brown, the
honeycomb becomes brittle internally. The foil is a great idea since
once it is broken down it is never as strong as intended originally.
A review of Deems pictures shows an interesting and easy to make heat
shield on the exhaust stacks.
The plastic boys rave on Dupont Ztec.
John Cox
#40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
Any idea how hot it is actually getting to discolor it? wonder what type
of
long term damage this could cause..
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
>
> Yep, a known issue since way back when Randy first flew. Randy
> let us know that the cowl would heat and discolor, so he stuck
> on some self-stick aluminum from Vans. I decided from day one
> to do the whole lower cowl, so I brushed on a layer of epoxy
> to seal it, and then covered the whole thing with aluminum.
> It wipes off nice that way too.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270023.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20060129/RV200601270025.html
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>> I pulled the cowl after 14 hours and find an exhaust stain below
the
>> slip
>> joint on the three in one. Anybody else see this? The gray spot is a
drip
>> of
>> the anti-seize used to connect the exhaust pipes. No CO in the cabin
; my
>> meter confirms.
>>
>>
>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
Concur on the stainless braided Teflon lines. Initially replaced the
manufacturers suggested nylon lines on the Glastar. When confronted with the
Vans plans for the soft aluminum hard lines, immediately switched to the
Teflon lines. No need to let 5606 anywhere near a hot brake. The resulting
fire may cost an airplane. I secured mine with three Adel clamps. No problem
flying with the leg fairings off.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Window Adhesive (again) |
I have to say Ron,
Silpruf may be just a "sealant" but given the circumference of the windows
with a 3/4" reveal...I think I can live with 246 psi, (that pounds per squa
re inch right...inch???) heck I built the whole airplane with no more than
90 psi in my compressor...course you know I'm razzain ya mate!! Too bad you
can't get fresh Weldon...but I think you make up for it in fresh=C2-lobs
ter and shrimp.
Rick Sked
40185
Man this thing is looking like an airplane!!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron McGANN" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 4, 2008 5:22:37 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Window Adhesive (again)
Hi all,
Did some research over the weekend on replacements for Weld-on.=C2- Here
are some numbers I found on bond strength to acrylic:
WeldOn 10:=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- 2700psi
SilPruf:=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2- 246 psi
Scotch Weld 2216 B/A:=C2-=C2- 1100 psi (shear) 500 psi tension (I think
)
FE6026: dunno
Epoxy/flox:=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- dunno
Sikaflex:=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- dunno, but requires a minimum
3/16" bed
SilPruf is not recommended for structural applications and seems to be more
a sealant.=C2- And it appears to have only 10% the bond strength of Weld
on.=C2- Maybe I have dodgy data and am happy to be corrected by the fans.
=C2- Given the bond strength of the Weld On, it seems to me that the wind
ows become an integral part of the cabin and are therefore structural.=C2
- I'm not sure I would feel comfortable behind Silpruf, especially for th
e windshield (but of course that is just my view based on the data I have s
o far).
I just can't find any tech data on the FE6026 that Jesse recommends and hav
e no clue what the bond strength of epoxy/flox would be.=C2- I'm really k
een to get some hard quantitative data before I make a decision.=C2- Can
anyone fill in the gaps (whoops bad unintended pun)??
Cheers,
Ron
"Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipie
nt, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expr
essly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify u
s immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and it
s attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using
this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility t
o ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
=
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_1177 |
Please tell us a little about it, John!
On May 4, 2008, at 6:01 PM, John Cox wrote:
> The plastic boys rave on Dupont Ztec.
Message 19
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David, did you make a big 270=B0 loop with your Teflon lines like Tim
did recently, or did you just make a big 90=B0 loop?
What is the need for the big loop with flexible lines? - I don't say
it's not necessary, I just don't understand.
John
40458
On May 4, 2008, at 6:04 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> Concur on the stainless braided Teflon lines. Initially replaced
> the manufacturers suggested nylon lines on the Glastar. When
> confronted with the Vans plans for the soft aluminum hard lines,
> immediately switched to the Teflon lines. No need to let 5606
> anywhere near a hot brake. The resulting fire may cost an airplane.
> I secured mine with three Adel clamps. No problem flying with the
> leg fairings off.
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | May RV-10 Calendar Page |
Thanks to Neil and Sarah Colliver in New Zealand.
I have a friend in Christchurch. Hope to visit someday!
Beautiful Paint!
Jim Combs
40192
N312F
Do Not Archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines |
Tim,
I second the opinion on those Monster retreads. I had the same uneven wear on
the Cardinal and also went with the retreads from the Aviation Consumer recommendation.
They have held up very well and do NOT show the uneven wear on the
outer edge that the the normal tires exhibited. I did have to replace one as
it seems my left brake was stuck on landing and a flat spot was worn into it.
I'm convinced that if this was a normal and not a Monster retread, the tire would
have failed.
As for the balancing, I usually take it to the local motorcycle shop for $10 per
tire. How may time would I have to use that balancer before it pays for itself?
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>
>
>
> It's been while since I've done any maintenance worth
> talking about, but this weekend I did have some interesting
> stuff with good results.
>
> I know we've talked about wheel shimmy in the past, and
> how getting the nosewheel all perfect is part of a fix for
> some people. I do believe though that the mains on the
> -10 have the tendency to "walk" back and forth, and that this
> is probably a cause of shimmy for some people who *think* they
> have nose shimmy. We've talked about balancing tires and
> how some people had good results...but this weekend I finally
> got to put on my first new set of tires at 330 hours and
> I balanced them out. Turns out I now believe balancing is
> key.
>
> I also replaced my brake lines from fuselage to wheel with
> some great braided teflon ones. Most people have heard
> of builders with cracked lines around that lower loop,
> but I know that at least one person had a nearly severed
> line up on the top area too, from gear flex. I decided to
> head it all off and finally install the lines I bought a few
> months ago.
>
> One other thing I did was to take the advice of another
> builder and replace my caliper piston o-rings with
> some higher temp Viton ones...especially since he was
> nice enough to get me some milspec ones for free.
> The combination of lines and piston o-rings though, did
> cause me to have to bleed the brakes, of course...so that's
> good.
>
> I've got the whole thing written up here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
>
> With some additional stuff here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
Message 22
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It's=C2-to allow you enough excess line to remove the caliper without hav
ing to disconnect the brake line.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 4, 2008 6:53:03 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake lines
David, did you make a big 270=C2=B0 loop with your Teflon lines like Tim di
d recently, or did you just make a big 90=C2=B0 loop?
What is the need for the big loop with flexible lines? - I don't say it's n
ot necessary, I just don't understand.
John=C2-
40458
On May 4, 2008, at 6:04 PM, David McNeill wrote:
Concur on =C2-the stainless braided Teflon lines. Initially replaced the
manufacturers suggested nylon lines on the Glastar. When confronted with th
e Vans plans for the soft aluminum hard lines, immediately switched to the
Teflon lines. No need to let 5606 anywhere near a hot brake. The resulting
fire may cost an airplane. I secured mine with three Adel=C2-clamps. No p
roblem flying with the leg fairings off. href="http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="ht
tp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.m
atronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
====
=======================
==
Message 23
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| Subject: | Sealing compound |
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines |
Hey Tim,
Great write-up. As usual your tips and tricks are priceless to this
group. A question about those brake lines. Since the braided lines are
flexible is the loop around to the caliper still necessary? Can you
share the p/n from Bonaco?
Thanks!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
RV-10 N104BS
25.3 into phase 1
Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> It's been while since I've done any maintenance worth
> talking about, but this weekend I did have some interesting
> stuff with good results.
>
> I know we've talked about wheel shimmy in the past, and
> how getting the nosewheel all perfect is part of a fix for
> some people. I do believe though that the mains on the
> -10 have the tendency to "walk" back and forth, and that this
> is probably a cause of shimmy for some people who *think* they
> have nose shimmy. We've talked about balancing tires and
> how some people had good results...but this weekend I finally
> got to put on my first new set of tires at 330 hours and
> I balanced them out. Turns out I now believe balancing is
> key.
>
> I also replaced my brake lines from fuselage to wheel with
> some great braided teflon ones. Most people have heard
> of builders with cracked lines around that lower loop,
> but I know that at least one person had a nearly severed
> line up on the top area too, from gear flex. I decided to
> head it all off and finally install the lines I bought a few
> months ago.
>
> One other thing I did was to take the advice of another
> builder and replace my caliper piston o-rings with
> some higher temp Viton ones...especially since he was
> nice enough to get me some milspec ones for free.
> The combination of lines and piston o-rings though, did
> cause me to have to bleed the brakes, of course...so that's
> good.
>
> I've got the whole thing written up here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
>
> With some additional stuff here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Oil Screen Plug Crush Washer P/N? |
Can someone confirm the p/n for the oil screen cap crush washer? I
think it may be a MS35769-48 but cannot reference it anywhere.
Thanks,
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
RV-10 N104BS
25.3 into phase 1
Message 26
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| Subject: | Aerotronics - Blatant Plug for "Plug-n-play" panel |
I just returned from Billings MT with my panel from Aerotronics. I consider their
workmanship and customer service absolutely first rate. I started talking with
them at OSH-07 and really got down to details in late Nov 07. with the final
details tendered in December 07.
The panel is basically a night VFR panel with a Garmin SL30 with GS/MB. The core
of the panel is the AFS-3500. All the detailing and wiring is absolutely great.
The service was great and they went over every detail with me to insure that
I got exactly what I wanted. Included is one year of after market service
that I have already exploited.
I picked up the panel (a 1000 mile drive) as I wanted to get a bit of training
on the panel and the wiring. I spent the morning with Jason and Andre who were
great. Aerotronics is a FAA repair shop so the EXP section is a separate facility.
It is a big shop and they are working on a lot of certified panels as well
as a lot of $100K+ experimental panels. My job was probably one of their smaller
jobs, but I was always treated with the utmost respect and consideration.
They were recommended to me by Wally Anderson of Synergy Air training center
in Eugene OR. I took Wally's recommendation even though Aerotronics was not the
cheapest.
I was not disappointed.
I picked up my panel as delivery is a big expense (insurance/packaging) and for
the same cost, my wife and I had a great trip to Montana. We saw Yellowstone,
Little Big Horn, the Art Museum in Billings and the highlight of the trip, the
Potato Museum in Blackfoot, Idaho. :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=181148#181148
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a_panel_120.jpg
Message 27
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my line bend is about 135 degrees. sorry about the big picture to the list.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines |
Have your local airport hose shop make you some. Measure from the tip of the
flare to the tip of the flare with a flexible tape on your selected routing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines
Hey Tim,
Great write-up. As usual your tips and tricks are priceless to this group.
A question about those brake lines. Since the braided lines are flexible is
the loop around to the caliper still necessary? Can you share the p/n from
Bonaco?
Thanks!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
RV-10 N104BS
25.3 into phase 1
Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> It's been while since I've done any maintenance worth talking about,
> but this weekend I did have some interesting stuff with good results.
>
> I know we've talked about wheel shimmy in the past, and how getting
> the nosewheel all perfect is part of a fix for some people. I do
> believe though that the mains on the -10 have the tendency to "walk"
> back and forth, and that this is probably a cause of shimmy for some
> people who *think* they have nose shimmy. We've talked about
> balancing tires and how some people had good results...but this
> weekend I finally got to put on my first new set of tires at 330 hours
> and I balanced them out. Turns out I now believe balancing is key.
>
> I also replaced my brake lines from fuselage to wheel with some great
> braided teflon ones. Most people have heard of builders with cracked
> lines around that lower loop, but I know that at least one person had
> a nearly severed line up on the top area too, from gear flex. I
> decided to head it all off and finally install the lines I bought a
> few months ago.
>
> One other thing I did was to take the advice of another builder and
> replace my caliper piston o-rings with some higher temp Viton
> ones...especially since he was nice enough to get me some milspec ones
> for free.
> The combination of lines and piston o-rings though, did cause me to
> have to bleed the brakes, of course...so that's good.
>
> I've got the whole thing written up here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
>
> With some additional stuff here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines |
One other point. You can secure each Teflon line with 3 sets of two Adel
clamps. Clamp the leg with one and clamp the line with the other, then use a
single bolt to connect the two. This will prevent any vibration/abrasion of
the steel line and steel powder coat on the leg.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 7:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines
Have your local airport hose shop make you some. Measure from the tip of the
flare to the tip of the flare with a flexible tape on your selected routing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Recent Maintenance - Tires and Brake Lines
Hey Tim,
Great write-up. As usual your tips and tricks are priceless to this group.
A question about those brake lines. Since the braided lines are flexible is
the loop around to the caliper still necessary? Can you share the p/n from
Bonaco?
Thanks!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
RV-10 N104BS
25.3 into phase 1
Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> It's been while since I've done any maintenance worth talking about,
> but this weekend I did have some interesting stuff with good results.
>
> I know we've talked about wheel shimmy in the past, and how getting
> the nosewheel all perfect is part of a fix for some people. I do
> believe though that the mains on the -10 have the tendency to "walk"
> back and forth, and that this is probably a cause of shimmy for some
> people who *think* they have nose shimmy. We've talked about
> balancing tires and how some people had good results...but this
> weekend I finally got to put on my first new set of tires at 330 hours
> and I balanced them out. Turns out I now believe balancing is key.
>
> I also replaced my brake lines from fuselage to wheel with some great
> braided teflon ones. Most people have heard of builders with cracked
> lines around that lower loop, but I know that at least one person had
> a nearly severed line up on the top area too, from gear flex. I
> decided to head it all off and finally install the lines I bought a
> few months ago.
>
> One other thing I did was to take the advice of another builder and
> replace my caliper piston o-rings with some higher temp Viton
> ones...especially since he was nice enough to get me some milspec ones
> for free.
> The combination of lines and piston o-rings though, did cause me to
> have to bleed the brakes, of course...so that's good.
>
> I've got the whole thing written up here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080503/index.html
>
> With some additional stuff here:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | sealing compound |
I'm just now getting into areas (brakes, fuel, etc.) that require AN ftting
installation. I notice on most websites, there is a sealant being used that has
a cream colored, paste appearance. Can someone let me know what it is and where
you got it?
I purchased TiteSeal from Aircraft Spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/titesealit.php
Looks much different, but by description seems to be fit for the application.
Anyone using this stuff?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
(waiting on engine to arrive)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Window Adhesive (again) |
Ron,
Let me put in another plug for Hysol EA 9360. I found it very easy to work with
while doing my windows. Afterwards I did some simple trials with plexi-fiberglass,
plexi-alum., alum.-fiberglass, alum-alum. After 1 week cure all samples
were virtually impossible to separate without destroying the bonded material.
Working time is approx. 1 hour @ 25C. Lancair uses this stuff for their pressurized
windows(which are installed from the inside) and for bonding major wing
and fuselage components. Tensile lap shear strength is 5000psi.
It can by air shipped, but that probably will not be necessary as there are 2 dealers
in the land of Oz. Located in Kilsyth and Welland. I think I paid about
$90US for a quart, which will be enough to do all your windows and anything else
you want to never come apart.
Go to www.aerospace.henkel.com for specs. and msds sheets.
Jim Berry
40482
Well adhered
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=181162#181162
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | sealing compound |
What you want is
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=fuel+lube&search=1.
This should be used on pipe thread fittings. It should not be used on flared
fittings; use the proper tool to flare the tube and the tube will be leak
proof at the flared fitting.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dogsbark@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 8:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: sealing compound
I'm just now getting into areas (brakes, fuel, etc.) that require AN ftting
installation. I notice on most websites, there is a sealant being used that
has a cream colored, paste appearance. Can someone let me know what it is
and where you got it?
I purchased TiteSeal from Aircraft Spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/titesealit.php
Looks much different, but by description seems to be fit for the
application.
Anyone using this stuff?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
(waiting on engine to arrive)
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Oil Screen Plug Crush Washer P/N? |
It's an AN900-16, same as MS35769-21.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 7:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Screen Plug Crush Washer P/N?
Can someone confirm the p/n for the oil screen cap crush washer? I think it
may be a MS35769-48 but cannot reference it anywhere.
Thanks,
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
RV-10 N104BS
25.3 into phase 1
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | sealing compound |
Thanks,Dave!
Sean
Do not archive
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> What you want is
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=fuel+lube&search=1.
> This should be used on pipe thread fittings. It should not be used on flared
> fittings; use the proper tool to flare the tube and the tube will be leak
> proof at the flared fitting.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> dogsbark@comcast.net
> Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 8:19 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: sealing compound
>
>
> I'm just now getting into areas (brakes, fuel, etc.) that require AN ftting
> installation. I notice on most websites, there is a sealant being used that
> has a cream colored, paste appearance. Can someone let me know what it is
> and where you got it?
>
> I purchased TiteSeal from Aircraft Spruce:
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/titesealit.php
>
> Looks much different, but by description seems to be fit for the
> application.
> Anyone using this stuff?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
> #40225
>
> (waiting on engine to arrive)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_1177 |
I posted information on Zetex several years ago. It comes in various
thicknesses and is often trimmed at the edge of the firewall with Red
RTV. The Lancair boys use it in combination to a stainless steel plate
at the exhaust discharge to reduce charring of their fuselage skins.
Tim used a similar but more cost effective product posted on his fine
website on the application after we witnessed what happened to Randy
back in '06. You have to put into perspective that they run with a
composite firewall and don't have the protection VAN provided with the
S.Steel.
It works great on the lower cowl liner within 6" of the exhaust stacks.
Remember those EGT probes go over 1000 degrees.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_1177
Please tell us a little about it, John!
On May 4, 2008, at 6:01 PM, John Cox wrote:
> The plastic boys rave on Dupont Ztec.
Message 36
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| Subject: | Aerotronics - Blatant Plug for "Plug-n-play" panel |
Those of us born and raised in Blackfoot may have under-appreciated the
Potato Museum judging by Mike's response. The next time I tell someone about
the Potato Museum I will probably mention that some visitors found it a cut
above other oft visited sites like Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Meteor Crater,
and our internationally famous attraction near Yuma, the Official Center of
the World at Felicity, California.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
I just returned from Billings MT with my panel from Aerotronics. I picked up
my panel as delivery is a big expense (insurance/packaging) and for the same
cost, my wife and I had a great trip to Montana. We saw Yellowstone, Little
Big Horn, the Art Museum in Billings and the highlight of the trip, the
Potato Museum in Blackfoot, Idaho. :D
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