Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:53 AM - Re: Re: Kudos (Chris and Susie McGough)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Rudder Trim - Spring Bias (linn Walters)
3. 12:41 PM - Northern VA RV-10 Builders? (bcondrey)
4. 01:18 PM - Re: Rudder Trim - Spring Bias (Tim Olson)
5. 03:42 PM - Re: Rudder Trim - Spring Bias (Albert Gardner)
6. 05:21 PM - Re: Re: Kudos (John Cox)
7. 06:02 PM - Re: Rudder Trim - Spring Bias (Bill DeRouchey)
8. 09:09 PM - Re: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 (lessdragprod@aol.com)
9. 09:27 PM - Re: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 (David McNeill)
10. 09:34 PM - Re: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 (David McNeill)
Message 1
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I was talking to a machanic at work today and he was saying with the ethonal
here that is mixed with normal fuel they use a higher octane rated fuel thus
not losing economy.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Michael we use ethonal here for increased milage. The fuel companys ran a
> scare campain a few years ago and everyone was turned off it now its
> become no big deal
>
> regards Chris 388 AUS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 11:24 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
>
>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> Yep, you pay for that ethanol percentage one way or another. 100%
>> ethanol will reduce mileage by about 30%. Do the math sometime on those
>> savings with E85.
>>
>> Michael
>> Do not archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 11:00 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
>>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> Another hint - avoid ethanol gas blends - I found I took a big gas
>> mileage
>> hit when I filled up with an E10 blend.
>>
>> Using a 17' U-Hail I was told to expect 12mpg. This is what I got even
>> when
>> in the mountains after the E10 was burned off. I was driving 60mph+ for
>> the
>> 1,100 miles back to Edmonton. Going slower was not an option.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
>> Sent: May-13-08 9:38 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
>>
>>
>> I second the kudos - they do an awesome job and are very pleasant.
>>
>> I forgot my ropes at home and they even supplied ropes (no charge)
>>
>> :D :D :D :D :D :D
>>
>> Hint to the will call folks - drive slow and the vans get dramatically
>> better fuel economy
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183052#183052
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim - Spring Bias |
I'm sure there are more than a few that would like to see some pictures!!!
Linn
do not archive
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> I have been doing a little testing of my spring bias trim system. I did not
> measure rudder pedal forces required but the spring bias system has almost
> enough force on take off so that only a little right rudder pressure is
> required and the same for slow flight. Otherwise for normal climb, cruise
> and descents the trim system will center the ball. It was easy to install as
> Vans aileron trim servo is used as is and 4 holes drilled in the bottom of
> the tail cone to install it. The turn around pulley bracket is simple to
> fabricate and bolts to the elevator bell crank housing assy. The hardest
> part was pulling additional rudder cables from the trim servo arm back to
> the rudder horn. Also, having 2 rudder cables attached to the rudder horn is
> the one thing I don't like about the system. I already had a 5 wire cable
> installed in the tail come anticipating rudder trim at some later point when
> I built the plane and a Ray Allen LED trim indicator and switch on the panel
> with wiring completed. The trim forces are fairly easy to overcome so run
> away trim doesn't seem to be a big worry. All in all I'm very happy with the
> system. Frankly, the idea of clamping the rudder cables to effect trim seems
> difficult for me to accept.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Northern VA RV-10 Builders? |
I had some meetings in the Reston, VA area that ended early so it looks like I've
got an evening free. Any RV-10 builders in the area that want to get together
or need some help? Contact me on my cell phone at 402 651 0402
Bob
#40105/N442PM Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183329#183329
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim - Spring Bias |
Don Orrick sent me some photos and info on a rudder trim setup
that he's using in his RV-10. It's got a vernier control and
doesn't lock any cables anytime. He admits it to be slightly
crude as it's a proof-of-concept that he actually has flying,
but it could be cleaned up to be pretty nice if someone wanted
it different. I'm just passing on the info to you all in case
you like the idea.
It's in my Tips area at: (with photos)
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/DonOrrick.html
I'm surprised at how long the rudder trim thread lasts. It
seems to me that there are just so many ideas to ponder.
Personally, the electric servo trim tab seems pretty
simple and straightforward and actually took very little
effort and time to install...and I left the rudder on
the plane to do it, so I'm not sure why people spend tons
of time and effort on other ideas, but it's showing to be
a good thinking exercise at least. And between Albert
and Don, these systems are pretty true to the simple
rudder trim concept, without affecting rudder pedal function.
For me, a static wedge was pretty good for a long time.
The adjustable trim is very nice to have...and I personally
feel it's hard to beat a quick tap of a button to center
it...with no cable involvement at all.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> I have been doing a little testing of my spring bias trim system. I did not
> measure rudder pedal forces required but the spring bias system has almost
> enough force on take off so that only a little right rudder pressure is
> required and the same for slow flight. Otherwise for normal climb, cruise
> and descents the trim system will center the ball. It was easy to install as
> Vans aileron trim servo is used as is and 4 holes drilled in the bottom of
> the tail cone to install it. The turn around pulley bracket is simple to
> fabricate and bolts to the elevator bell crank housing assy. The hardest
> part was pulling additional rudder cables from the trim servo arm back to
> the rudder horn. Also, having 2 rudder cables attached to the rudder horn is
> the one thing I don't like about the system. I already had a 5 wire cable
> installed in the tail come anticipating rudder trim at some later point when
> I built the plane and a Ray Allen LED trim indicator and switch on the panel
> with wiring completed. The trim forces are fairly easy to overcome so run
> away trim doesn't seem to be a big worry. All in all I'm very happy with the
> system. Frankly, the idea of clamping the rudder cables to effect trim seems
> difficult for me to accept.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Rudder Trim - Spring Bias |
OK, here they are. Installation in the tail cone is straight forward. Bolt
the pulley bracket behind the elevator bellcrank using the aft 3 screws.
Build Vans aileron trim unit and locate the servo unit about half way
between the aft baggage bulkhead and the next one aft straddling the floor
stiffener. Fabricate 2 3/32" cables, one long enough to wrap around the
pulley. I left a 12" gap that the springs would bridge and provide bias
tension. Attach the cables to the rudder horn. Hook up the servo to the
switch and indicator. Fly. I added a keeper to the pulley bracket to insure
the cable could not come off the pulley. It adds some small security for
gust protection on the ground but not enough to replace a gust lock.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
I'm sure there are more than a few that would like to see some pictures!!!
Linn
do not archive
Message 6
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Higher octane does not necessarily equate to better economy. A
detonation reduction is the possibility with higher octane and is needed
as compression ratios increase that risk. Some are bemoaning the loss
of mileage with four wheeled vehicles forced to use ethanol. They sleep
better knowing the farmers are benefiting and there is less polution out
the tailpipe.
My 87 RON car gets 30mpg, my 92 RON gets 18mpg.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
Susie McGough
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 3:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
<VHMUM@bigpond.com>
I was talking to a machanic at work today and he was saying with the
ethonal
here that is mixed with normal fuel they use a higher octane rated fuel
thus
not losing economy.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Michael we use ethonal here for increased milage. The fuel companys
ran a
> scare campain a few years ago and everyone was turned off it now its
> become no big deal
>
> regards Chris 388 AUS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 11:24 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
>
>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> Yep, you pay for that ethanol percentage one way or another. 100%
>> ethanol will reduce mileage by about 30%. Do the math sometime on
those
>> savings with E85.
>>
>> Michael
>> Do not archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les
Kearney
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 11:00 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
>>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> Another hint - avoid ethanol gas blends - I found I took a big gas
>> mileage
>> hit when I filled up with an E10 blend.
>>
>> Using a 17' U-Hail I was told to expect 12mpg. This is what I got
even
>> when
>> in the mountains after the E10 was burned off. I was driving 60mph+
for
>> the
>> 1,100 miles back to Edmonton. Going slower was not an option.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
>> Sent: May-13-08 9:38 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Kudos
>>
>>
>> I second the kudos - they do an awesome job and are very pleasant.
>>
>> I forgot my ropes at home and they even supplied ropes (no charge)
>>
>> :D :D :D :D :D :D
>>
>> Hint to the will call folks - drive slow and the vans get
dramatically
>> better fuel economy
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - Ready to exit cabin top/door purgatory
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183052#183052
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rudder Trim - Spring Bias |
Albert-
That is a very clean and foolproof installation.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
Albert Gardner <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
OK, here they are. Installation in the tail cone is straight forward. Bolt
the pulley bracket behind the elevator bellcrank using the aft 3 screws.
Build Vans aileron trim unit and locate the servo unit about half way
between the aft baggage bulkhead and the next one aft straddling the floor
stiffener. Fabricate 2 3/32" cables, one long enough to wrap around the
pulley. I left a 12" gap that the springs would bridge and provide bias
tension. Attach the cables to the rudder horn. Hook up the servo to the
switch and indicator. Fly. I added a keeper to the pulley bracket to insure
the cable could not come off the pulley. It adds some small security for
gust protection on the ground but not enough to replace a gust lock.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
I'm sure there are more than a few that would like to see some pictures!!!
Linn
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the?governor)?to MT USA as they do it (the adjustment)?on
the test bench.? UPS Ground is not expensive and the better way.? In
the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it)?is stated on page 12
that the modification must be done at an authorized service shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller?factory is concerned
about the customer?loosing track of the position of the splined shaft?when
the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
?
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory acceptable
adjustment?
?
Thanks
?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming IO-540 engine,
you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which has a
different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr@comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
before indexing mark the spline and the handle. and when changing the handle
hold the spring.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it (the
adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the better
way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it) is stated
on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized service
shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the splined
shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory
acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which
has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr@comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
The MT propellor rep in FL provided info to do it on the aircraft.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Hi Dick,
I received the following comment from MT Propeller in Germany.
"(The) Best way is to send it (the governor) to MT USA as they do it (the
adjustment) on the test bench. UPS Ground is not expensive and the better
way. In the operating & Installation manual of the governor (it) is stated
on page 12 that the modification must be done at an authorized service
shop."
Additionally, because of the spring loading, the MT Propeller factory is
concerned about the customer loosing track of the position of the splined
shaft when the control lever is removed.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sipp <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, 14 May 2008 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
Jim:
Is re-indexing the arm on the govenor an as others have mentioned a factory
acceptable adjustment?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
If Van's Aircraft sold the P-860-5 governor for the wide deck Lycoming
IO-540 engine, you wouldn't even be having this discussion.
The P-860-3 governor is for the narrow deck Lycoming IO-540 engine, which
has a different gear ratio to the front mounted governor.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: raddatz <n667sr@comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 7:12 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
I believe all the 10's I built where around 2550-2600 out of the box, I just
mark the arm and shaft and move the arm one spline.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183043#183043
_____
Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004> : America's #1 Mapping
Site.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/>
">http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_____
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